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  1. A month ago I posted on this forum that I was selling some Atari 800 mechanical keyboards. I now have a few more available: The keyboard is a drop-in replacement, already includes all of the required 3D printed parts all you need is a screwdriver (and your Atari 800 keycaps). I'm asking $65 (USD) + shipping (from Cleveland). I put together some installation instructions (although installation is fairly straight forward) and there's some photos in that PDF if you want to check it out. After my previous posting 3 people PM'd me about this and two have purchased, one said he wanted one but so far has not yet responded from my email. So I have 2 available for sure and possibly another 3rd if that person doesn't respond in a few days.
  2. WHAT IS IT? 'Atari 800 - Best Game Pack' is an All-In-One game pack includes the best Atari 8-bit games, screenshots, adverts, covers, manuals, the spreadsheet of high scores club and easy-to-use front-end. The objectives of the game pack are 'Preservation of best Atari 8-bit games and their database' and 'Providing user friendly front-end for running games and accessing database'. DOWNLOAD - Click here to download the latest version SCREENSHOTS - Click here to see screenshots in the official blog LICENSE - Freeware (Commercial use prohibited) SOFTWARE DEVELOPMENT TEAM - starwindz (Front-end programming, Games and database integration) - Paul 'Mclane' Irvine (Software test, Feature recommendation, General advice) - Greyfox (Logo creation, General advice) IMPORTANT LINKS - Official development blog - Official manual FEATURES - All-In-One! No other installations needed. - Atari 800 emulators(Altirra, Atari800Win Plus) included - No setup needed. Just extract a .7z file and run main executable - Includes top 600+ Atari 8-bit games mentioned on atarimania.com and atariage.com forum - Includes screenshots and extra data from gamebase(by Mark Hardnman) and atarimania (Adverts, Covers, Manuals) - Searches and displays High Scores - Spreadsheet (Original version made by champions_2002 and now it will be updated by me.) - Displays atarimania user scores and comments - Game browsers to select a game while seeing multiple screenshots - User created game list - Random game selection - And more...
  3. Hi, some years ago I gave a promise to an ABBUC member to make a video-out solution for his Atari 400 without the need of changing parts, scratching conducting paths or any other destructive mod to his Atari 400. He´s a real "hardcore" collector with no way in give-and-take regarding this point. After tinkering around with an "add-on" PCB for the GTIA socket I failed, because there´s not enough space. Of course - from a collector´s view - it´s a No-Go to remove the metal cabinet, so I decide to create a complete new CPU board with the needed components directly on it. I´ve reached the goal by 99%. A very little bit of soldering is required and the need to drill one hole into the metal assembly - the shielded video cable needs a place to break out, there´s no way else than making a new 5 mm hole somehwere in the upper part of the metal assembly. So here´s my solution: The Super Color CPU Card for Atari 400 and Atari 800 systems This PCB is a complete replacement for the original CPU card in any Atari 400 or 800 using PAL or NTSC. This PCB works NOT with SECAM. You are able to use both CPU-types found in the Atari 400 and Atari 800 series, the standard 6502B MOS CPU (without HALT signal) and the Atari-specialized version 6502C, also called "Sally". Chips (CPU, ANTIC and CTIA or GTIA) are not included and must be pulled of the built-in Atari CPU card. But they are always in sockets, so it´s easy. Circuitry on this PCB is nearly 100% the same like at the genuine Atari CPU card with some changes to make it possible to use both CPU types. You only need to set five jumpers to select the desired CPU type. Addiitonal the PAL color clock generation circuit is onboard for PAL systems. There´s a seperate jumper to select PAL or NTSC - this jumper connects the GTIA "PALC" pin to either the output of the PAL color clock generator or directly to 3,57 MHz system clock (NTSC). Only for clarifying this: You can´t just switch the jumper and make a NTSC system to a PAL computer or vice versa. At least you´ve to change ANTIC, GTIA and of course the system clock crystal at the mainboard At least a third jumper block (not existing an the prototype shown on the picture above) enables/disables the 75 Ohm termination resistors for Luma, Chrominance or CVBS output. This setting must be tested depending on the connected monitor or television - sometimes the picture quality is better with, sometimes without termination resistors. The video out solution is based on the Atari 800 XL video circuitry without mixing Luma and Chroma together. Of course the well-known mods are already integrated. The final signals are amplified and filtered by the Fairchild FMS6410 VideoAmp. This chip also generates the CVBS signal. So you can use either S-Video (Y/C) for best picture quality or CVBS for common monitors and televisions which doesn´t accept S-Video (Y/C) input. Please notice: This video solution can´t performing magic. I test it on different computer monitors and televisions. The best performance - as ever in every setting with old computers - will be shown on CRT (tube) monitors or televisions. Of course for Atari 400 owners EVERYTHING is better than the antenna (RF) output, but don´t expect a higher quality than the regular Atari 800 S-video output. It might be better, but I can´t promise. That´s impossible by the dozens of different monitors, cables, T.V. systems and so on. Scope of delivery One PCB "Super Color CPU Card" for Atari 400 or Atari 800 computers, capable using 6502B or 6502C CPU, runs on PAL or NTSC systems A manual (illustrated installation instructions) in german and english (sent by email with shipping out notice) One DIN connector 5 pin to lead out the video signals (optional for Atari 800 users) approx 50 cm shielded cable for video out approx 50 cm shielded cable for internal audio connection (optional for Atari 800 users) I offer two versions of the PCB "Standard" = Full populated (except Atari custom chips) PCB, standard HASL surface (as shown in the picture above) "Gold" = Full populated (except Atari custom chips) PCB, gold-finished (ENIG) surface (like my Sys-Check and many other solutions) The ENIG (gold-finished) surface is more rugged against rust and fouling. Because the naked PCB price doubles when choosing ENIG at this board size, I offer two versions. Prices One "Standard" PCB = 48 Euros each One "Gold" PCB = 59 Euros each Registered and insured shipping 1 or 2 piece(s) worldwide = 9 Euros Registered and insured shipping 3 or 4 pieces worldwide = 12 Euros More than 4 pieces or specialized = please ask Info: After some bad experiences with some postal services I only ship insured now. Time schedule I will collect orders and payments until the end of January, the 22.th 2017 (GMT) At the end of January I will order the parts and PCBs Assembling and shipping out can take up to 6 weeks, because there´s no holidays for me, assembling will be done in my spare time Depending on shipping time you will get your PCB(s) in March or April 2017 - This is the worst case, but I won´t promise things I can´t realize. So this is a safe suggestion. First payment, first serve: I can´t make all PCBs at one time, so small batches will be made. Date & Time of cleared payment sets the order of shipping out Please sent me a PM (personal message) or leave a post in this thread. You will get an answer soon. Practical hints for Atari 400 users The Atari 400 hasn´t any S-Video/CVBS output and no standard monitor jack, just an antenna (RF) cable. This cable is replaceable, so the best way is to remove the whole cable. You can use the hole in the case where the antenna cable was now for the new video out cable. At the end a standard DIN 5 pin connector coupling is applied. You can use ANY standard CVBS or S-Video cable made for any Atari XL or XE (or the Atari 800) to connect your Atari 400 to a monitor or television. The sound signal must be clamped from the main PCB. Nothing is destructive, only two solder drops at the mainboard of your Atari 400 must be made and one hole with ~5 mm diameter must be drilled in the metal cage for leading the video cable out. Practical hints for Atari 800 users Remark: The Atari 800 has already a quite good video output (S-Video). The CVBS output ranges something in the middle of existing video solutions. The need of my Super Color CPU card isn´t really mandatory for an Atari 800 owner, but it CAN improve video quality. Of course without any promises. I repeat that to make this point of view clear for all interests. The first option is to go ahead like the Atari 400 user. Replace the antenna cable with the new video cable. The existing monitor connector is always out of function when replacing the Atari CPU card with my Super Color CPU Card. Second option for Atari 800 users is to use the existing monitor jack with the new Chroma, Luma and CVBS signal. For this purpose the best way is to bend away the three connections from the mainboard to the power-PCB transmitting these three signals. This is reversible, non-destructive and needs only four additional drops of solder at the monitor jack. The manual will show how to do and also point at the junctions where to grab the audio signal, too. If you want, the external monitor DIN 5 pin coupling connector is already soldered. Leave your wish with your order, otherwise I will ask when confiming your payment. Any questions? Feel free to ask Jurgen
  4. Bought a BackBit Pro and have been trying to get it working on my Incognito-equipped Atari 800. Further testing with all the carts I own showed that not all of them work. Having an original first-run Incognito board and hearing the initial CPLD code had cart issues, I started down the rabbit hole of reprogramming my CPLD. I was able to flash the 2.0 JED on to my Incognito (confirmed on the BIOS "Info" page), but I'm still running into cart issues. Here's my story. The following cartridges were functioning prior to flash: Congo Bongo AtariWriter Galaxian The following cartridge wouldn't launch before, but did after flash: Pole Position The following cartridges will not work before or after: Miner 2049er River Raid BASIC Space Invaders Backbit Pro All cartridges work fine on my (glitchy) 1200XL that has a U1MB installed. I've tried the "official" 2.0 JED, as well as the two JEDs found on the forums (Incognito-BETA-CPLD-2021_10_07-BIT3_VBXE.JED and Incognito-BETA-CPLD-2023_01_11-BIT3_VBXE.JED). Incognito BIOS info screen: BIOS version: 4.20, Plugin: VB, Version: 2.20, JED version: 2.0, Computer: 800, CPU: 6502 1.79MHz, Video: NTSC 60, VBXE core: Not present U1MB BIOS info screen: Version: 4.20, Computer: XL/XE, CPU: 6502C 1.79MHz, Video: NTSC 60 At this point I'm out of ideas. Anyone have any suggestions?
  5. Is it true that the Mario Bros. (1983) port for the Atari XL computers was never actually released? If so, then that means there were virtually no official computer-based ports of MB at all, at least not here in the USA (prior to the 1988 Atari XEGS port, which itself was an improvement on the original 5200 cartridge port and with audio inspired by the Nintendo FamiCom/NES version of the same game). It would also mean that the so-called "XL" ports of the game I'm seeing was just the 5200 console version's ROM burned onto other media. The unreleased pre-1984 ports (USA): Atari XL (just a transfer from the 5200) Apple II (partially finished) Commodore 64 (finished) Pre-1984 ports of Mario Bros. that were released in the USA: Atari 2600 Atari 5200 Post-1984 ports (USA availability): Nintendo Entertainment System (NES) (also was a bonus mini-game within Super Mario Bros. 3) Atari 7800 Atari XEGS Super Nintendo Entertainment System (as a bonus mini-game within Super Mario Bros. 3) Game Boy Advance (as a bonus game on all four Super Mario Advance titles, and Mario & Luigi: Superstar Saga) ~Ben
  6. Purpose Have fun, share your experiences with others and test your skill at surviving in one of the most challenging, ground-breaking and technically advanced sandbox RPG games of the 1980s. Share your screenshots and videos and have fun participating! See setup, rules, tips, and survival guide below. CURRENT PLAYER RANKINGS #1 Jim Norris #2 Dan0 #3 Chunder #4 axewater #5 dgiors #6 Xebec's Demise #7 Gunstar #8 WestofHouse #9 SilverAR #10 smartwhois #11 Goochman #12 Chenzy #13 Angry Jedi #14 Bunsen #15 eclecticmonk Atari 800 emulator The Alternate Reality Wrapper is attached below automating all disk swaps. You may also download it directly from the source. AR Wrapper 1.0_Release.zip Doing it all manually is more complicated and tedious, but here are some basic instructions for playing Alternate Reality on your Windows PC or MAC with an emulator without the AR Wrapper. Rules For the purposes of the competition, you only have one life, no character editing or backups allowed. Have fun seeing just how far you really can make it in this hostile alien virtual world with one life and no saves. If you make mistakes try to overcome them. If you die and want to try again, start over. This is a challenging game and you will likely have a handful of characters die before surviving past the first few levels, but keep trying! Take a screenshot of your initial skills to share here with others. F10 takes a screenshot in Atari800win Plus. Have fun sharing other interesting screenshots and stories too! Most of all, just have fun playing and trying to surviving in one of the most incredible virtual world games of its time! Tips Here is the original game map if you want to experience the game as designed and a completed map (spoiler). You may also print this 64x64 (City size) blank graph paper to map yourself. Try playing a good aligned character. That way only half the population will be out to kill you and you will be pretty safe during the day. To do this, only attack neutral beings such as thieves, muggers, fighters and warriors if they take a swing at you first. Do not try to Trick them or Charm them; only try these acts on evil beings. If you surprise a neutral being like a mugger or fighter, always Hail them. If they Attack you, then you are free to attack back. The Following is a list of evil beings. Dragons, Thieves and Warrior classes are not evil. They are neutral, but their intro sounds similar to that of evil beings so be careful. Notice that the only evil human life form is the Assassin!: Assasin Orc Giant Rat Black Slime Spectre Imp Gnoll Troll Wolf Ghost Zombie Ghoul Goblin Nightstalker Brown Mold Wraith Gremlin Skeleton The first thing you should do is try to buy a Dagger or Stiletto. Straight from the floating gate go to Occums Weaponsmiths 19E, 32N hours 05:00-21:59 in the NW of town. If he does not have a Dagger or Stiletto then go to Sharp Weaponsmiths 54E, 9N hours 04:00-20:59 in the SE of town. Usually one or the other will have one. Occums is the cheapest by 23%. You can usually make an initial offer of less than half of the asking price. For example, if the Dagger is being sold for 200, then start by offering 90. Keep bargaining by meeting the Smithy a little less than half way of his counter offer i.e. if you Offer 90 and he counters with 130, then Offer 110. You should be able to buy a Dagger or Stiletto for between 100-120 Coppers depending on your CHR and skill at bartering. The very next thing you must do is head straight to the Tavern in the NW corner of town, 20E, 62N, (See map linked below) whether you were able to buy a Weapon or not. You can find or buy a weapon later, but for now you need to supply with food and water. After entering the City Wall, turn right or East and go through 19 secret doors. To be safe, after 18, you can turn right or south and try to enter. If you have counted correctly you will not be able to. Just turn left or back east and go through one more, turn right or south again and try to enter. You should enter the Tavern. If not, and you have messed up your counting somewhere, continue checking every south section of wall until you find it. If you go further than 19 secret doors you will have to exit the City wall and start over, so if you lose count, then try to error on the low end as you can keep checking until you find it. Once you have located the Tavern, go inside and buy a free Water. This will help save your Water Flasks from being used. Then, if you have any money, buy as many Food Packets and Water Flasks as you can, saving about 10 copper so that you can pay for an Inn. Buy Food Packets/Pemmican and Water Flasks so you always have twice as many Water Flasks as Food Packets. This is because Water Flasks are used up twice as fast. Pemmican = 1 Food Packet and only costs 16 Copper. If you do not have any money, then wait outside the Tavern and try to get some by defeating evil or neutral (if they attack first) beings. You can continue to go into the Tavern to get Free Water ever couple of hours so that your Water Flasks do not get used. You can tell an hour has passed, by the white text on the screen flashing ever 2:50 for NTSC and every 3:50 for PAL displays. Its a good idea to use a stopwatch to keep track of the hours, that way you do not have to watch for the text to flash. If the Tavern does not have Water Flasks or Food Packets/Pemmican, the menu will change every hour, so keep checking. Try to stock up with as much food and water as possible, remembering to keep about 10 coppers to sleep. If at any time, you are very low in Hit Points or Tired, then turn left or East, go through two secret doors, turn right or South and exit the City Wall. Head SW to the Warriors Retreat Inn 28E, 54N (see map linked below) and Sleep on the Common Area Floor for 12 Hours for 7 Copper. Try to go to sleep before it gets dark, you gain maximum hitpoints if you go to bed before dark and you choose a time to awake that is in the morning daylight. After you awake, you should either try to go buy a Dagger or Stiletto again if you did not get one, or go back to the Tavern and continue drinking free Water and stocking up on Food Packets and Water Flasks while fighting the beings that you encounter while waiting outside the Tavern door. If you get a surplus of money or Gems or Jewelry, vist the bank, Grams Gold Exchange 2E, 61N, which is close by in the NW corner and make a deposit so that you have a reserve of cash. Original Alternate Reality Homepage FAQ: http://www.eobet.com...reality_FAQ.txt How to Survive - Alternate Reality: The City Make a complete map of The City and list of potions first. Also note what stats each guild on the map raises. You will appreciate and cherish your own handmade map for many years to come, but if you don't enjoy mapping or do not have the time, then print one off from sites such as eobet's The Original Alternate Reality Homepage: http://www.eobet.com...ernate-reality/ or here: http://web.archive.o...s/AltrReal.html When rolling your stats, focus on STA, WIS and SKL. These three often-overlooked skills do not rise from potions or in-game use. They also happen to be very important for initial survival. SKL determines how easily you can escape an encounter without being stolen from and also how well you dodge blows. If you have a high SKL and average STR, you will be able to punch muggers to death with your Bare Hands, even 1 point at a time without them hitting you! WIS helps you determine what type of potion you have found - a single potion can change the outcome of your game! When you are a poor, weak character, it is very important to know what you are drinking! The right potion could be great, but the wrong one will surely kill you! WIS also helps you determine if a weapon is cursed or not. A Cursed weapon can also result in a bad start for a new character. STA is very important because it determines how many Hit Points you gain when going up a level. Even if you start with low hit points as a result of focusing on STA WIS and SKL, you can gain an additional 20+ Hit Points if your STA is near 20, just from gaining 300 experience, which is quite easy. On this basis, Hit Points are actually the least important in the long run because they can go up so quickly, unfortunately many people focus on them when rolling their characters. STA also affects your resistance to hardships and is likely to affect disease, hunger, thirst and tiredness - I am still confirming this. The best you can possibly roll in these three important skills is a total of 63, three 21s, but I have never seen it. Any combination above 50 is really good. You can pretty much ignore the other skills when rolling, they will go up with use and also gain much easier when leveling. Play a Good Alignment to begin with! You can always switch later. Never Attack, Trick or Charm Good beings. Only use Trick or Charm on Evil beings. Never Attack Neutral beings first. Neutral beings, such as Fighters and Thieves, have the same intro music as Evil creatures so be careful. Always wait for Neutral beings to take the first swing. Dragons are Neutral also! When you Surprise Neutral beings make sure to Hail them. They will then begin to leave you alone. This is especially important for encounters with the more skilled and powerful Thieves, Knights and Dragons. If you have a good alignment they will normally let you go and most of the time will leave if they surprise you! Otherwise, they will try to steal your vital food, water and coppers and you will find it very hard to survive. If you are Evil, then Guards will constantly be after you also. Basically, by being Good, you cut your enemies in half and avoid being hunted by Guards and stolen from by Neutrals. This is very important for the survival of a new character. If you have 110 coppers or more, the very first thing you should do within the game is head straight to Occums Weaponsmiths and barter for a Dagger or Stiletto. If he does not have one, go to Sharp Weaponsmiths. Depending upon your CHR they will usually be offered for between 150 to 220 coppers. Start by offering about 80 coppers. The Smithy will then cut his price by about 70%! Then meet him a little bit less than halfway of his counter offers. If you barter well, even with low CHR, you can get a Stiletto or Dagger for 110-120 coppers! Remember to ready it as soon as you leave the Smithy. Practice this with Temporary characters until you are good at it. It takes some skill and knowledge to do it well without being kicked out. The very next stop should be the Assassin's Guild. A new character starts out with a Surprise modifier of 00. This stat raises slowly per level just like any other stat, but the Assassins Guild will give you +30 to the stat! Yes, that is +30, not +3! This will make a huge difference in your encounters. Also near the Assassins guild is the Sleeping Dragon Inn, the cheapest Inn in town. One of the cheaper taverns, the Flaming Dragon Tavern, is also right across from the Inn. There is no better place to restore your Hit Points if you are low and do not have enough coppers for the Healer. Always consider the healer first though; because sleeping will use up precious Food Packets which cost a minimum of 16 coppers each as Pemmican at The Tavern. Another option is to navigate your way to the Physicians Guild and Star Wizards Guild which will both give you some more Hit Points. These 8 Hit Points from the Guilds may be enough to survive, allowing you to kill that next aggressive mugger in order to gain even more Hit Points from gaining a level. If you have decent Hit Points, your very next stop should be The Tavern in the City Wall. Your next most important strategy for survival is to spend every copper you can on getting Pemmican/Food Packets. Always save 7 coppers to use for sleeping in the Warriors Retreat Inn close by on the East side of The Arena. Do not buy Water Flasks! They are a waste of your precious coppers. You can get as much water as you want for free at The Tavern. Even being Very Thirsty will not begin to affect you - you actually have to be Parched for a couple of game hours before your stats start dropping. Sit outside The Tavern and every hour the menu will change, hopefully offering Food Packets or even better, Pemmican. Buy as many as you can. You can use a stopwatch 2:50 for NTSC and 3:50 for PAL is a new AR hour; you can also tell by the lower white text portion of the screen flashing once, but you have to pay attention or you will miss it. I use the stopwatch on my watch and just let it run, i.e. 2:50 is the first hour change, 5:40 is the next hour change and so on. Every time you go in The Tavern, get free water. Your thirst does not display "Thirsty" until reaching a level of 04 and each water will reduce thirst by 4. You never know when it might not be available. Never waste any coppers on any food either unless you have not found any Pemmican/Food Packets and are "Famished" AND losing more than a couple of each stat. If this is the case, then try to buy Bowls of Chili, which reduce hunger level by 4 and only costs 8 or Sandwiches, which reduce hunger by 3 and cost about the same. Most other food is much more expensive or only reduces your hunger level by 1. While you are waiting outside The Tavern trying to collect coppers and supply yourself with Food Packets, try killing muggers and fighters that attack first, imps, gremlins, skeletons, zombies, orcs, gnolls and goblins. These are fairly easy to kill. Always try Tricking or Charming Evil creatures first as you may get lucky. When you become "Tired" AND begin losing stats, head as quickly as you can to the Inn and use the 7 coppers you were saving to sleep on the Common Area floor for 12 hours. Only sleep if it is dark or close to being dark. You will recover much faster if you are sleeping at night and awake in the morning or daylight. The optimum sleep time is from about 1800, when it turns dark, to 0600, when it turns light. If you sleep at that time, you will fully recover just from sleeping in the Common Area floor for 12 hours, even if you are Tired and have lost all your stats and almost all your hit points! A good strategy is to wait safely inside the Inn until about 1800. You will be safe inside the Inn no matter how Tired you are. Check the hour in the Inn and when it becomes dark, then sleep. Otherwise, you will be wasting your Coppers and your Food Packets sleeping and not recovering anything. Do not attack Giant Rats! Avoid them at all costs. They are easy to kill, but you will be setting yourself up for disaster as they almost always infect you with Rabies! Remember, in the long run, Rabies will cost you at least 200 coppers to cure unless you get lucky and find a Cleanse potion and it may also cost you your stats or life. You will very rarely get more than 200 coppers off a Giant Rat, so fighting them is not worth it. In fact, they rarely have any treasure at all. Do not fight Giant Rats! Also, still in testing, but it seems that you consume water and food faster, get tired more easily and do not gain stats as well when infected with Rabies or any diseases. As soon as you have a good supply of Food Packets, you can begin making your way to the guilds and raising your stats. Try to raise stats in the most balanced manner that you can. This is because often, the highest stats do not raise when you go up a level. So, if your STA, WIS and SKL are your highest stats, as suggested to begin with, DO NOT go to guilds that will raise these stats higher. Save these Guilds for later, otherwise it will be a waste. Visit these guild when you have gained a STR, CHR and INT that are higher; it will inevitably happen, as STR CHR and INT go up between levels with use. If you want to gain some STR, Parry Trolls. For every 255 hits, you will gain one point of STR. You can usually gain 2 to 3 points of STR off each Troll before losing stats to Tiredness. By Parrying, if you have a high skill, it will be very difficult for the Troll to hit you and you will not damage him enough to kill him. If you are doing more than 2-3 points of damage per hit, try using your Bare Hands or a worn out Stiletto to Parry the Troll. As long as you are not losing stats to Tiredness, Hunger or Thirst, you can sit there and ramp up your STR. STR determines the amount of damage you do, so eventually you will begin doing more damage than the Troll can Regenerate, but it's a good tactic for mid-level characters. Once you have a good supply of food and water and can survive well, head to the SE corner of town. Sleep in the Inn there during day, and fight the monsters at night. There is a good chance of running into easy monsters there that have a high percentage of treasure, such as Trolls, Imps, Gremlins and Goblins. Always get your Gems and Jewelry appraised at all three banks. Many times, one will appraise double that of the other two. It will take you some time, but the difference between a Completely Worthless gem and one that is worth 4 gold could be as big as the difference between life and death. AR Wrapper 1.0_Release.zip
  7. I spent some long hours playing a game on my friend's Atari 800: A vertical-scrolling game where you fly a little (small sprite) helicopter down into some underground tunnels. Eventually the tunnels start flooding with water, and you have to get back up and out in time. Anyone else remember what this game was called?
  8. Selling a working Atari 800 computer. Asking $200 180 This is just for the computer. PSU and Miner game are not included. Apple Pay or PayPal
  9. Selling a beautiful, working Atari 800 (see pics). Includes S-Video Monitor Cable (new), and Modern (wall-wart) Power Supply (also new). $280 + actual shipping charges.
  10. The current mania over Artificial Intelligence (AI) reminded me of a program I wrote for the original Atari 800 in 1984, for a post-graduate private computer school class. I've left the manual describing the program completely as is, except for redacting my old address on the cover page. Apologies for the yellowing pages, which are 39 years old now. The slight skewing from the scanner didn't lose any characters in the coding section and you can still type in the full code if you desire. I submit this as open-source and as a learning tool, to see how a basic - also BASIC - AI program was written in the very early days, almost before the IBM PC came out. It is based upon a very simple AI program in Compute! magazine - just 23 lines, or <1/10th the size of my greatly enhanced program. The program was originally designed for the Atari 800 but ought to run on the Atari 1450xld with speech options. The 1450xld was never officially released before Atari declared bankruptcy, but I was able to find the BASIC code that would have worked for that machine, and included it in this late stage Atari program, completed by May, 1984. Superlearner also has an option to print what it has learned to a printer, or save the output to a disk or cassette. The Atari had no access to the internet, which, in any case, did not exist in 1984, so there was no option for a BASIC AI program except for the user to manually enter facts and non-facts about subjects for the AI program to mull over. Menu options make this a simple matter. Everything is menu-driven, including the sample data already built into the program. I lost the function of my Atari 410 cassette recorder a long time ago and although I have a working Atari 810 disk drive, I have not had the patience to type in the program again. If there is sufficient interest in the program I may do so again, and provide some sample output from the program. There are some similarities to today's AI but of course, the level of complexity and capacity is millions of orders of magnitude greater today. I present this as a simple example of AI and of historical background to today's AI apps. Enjoy! Superlearner AI Manual and Program_Redacted.pdf
  11. [SOLD] For Sale a good working Atari 800 8bit Monkey Wrench II cartridge for $60 plus shipping to the U.S. lower 48. Offering here on AA before I list on eBay. This cart is designed to work only in an Atari 800 as it must be inserted in the Right cartridge slot while a BASIC cartridge is present in the Left cartridge slot. MWII provides many very helpfully commands when you are working with BASIC. Here is a link to the PDF of the manual that corresponds to this cart. It provides “33 new direct mode BASIC commands and functions” https://archive.org/details/the-monkey-wrench-ii-xl/mode/1up?view=theater The screen image shows MWII is activated via the USR() command. A 6502 monitor is invoked with the ‘>*’ command. Later the Auto Numbering is set with the command ‘>A 100 10’
  12. Anyone here remember the 1983 game B.C.'s Quest for Tires? Based on the comic strip B.C. by Johnny Hart (1931-2007), this is basically a clone of Moon Patrol. You play the character of Thor from the B.C. comic strip (not the Marvel comics character), who rides on a stone wheel dodging obstacles on a quest to rescue the Cute Chick. I played the port of Colecovision. It was also ported to the Atari 800, Apple II, MSX and Commodore 64. It was a fun game. Given its similarity to Moon Patrol, I'm surprised that it never got a port to other platforms like the Atari 2600, 5200 or 7800. (Cue to homebrew developers out there!) Anyone else play this game?
  13. I have purchased and installed the Incognito Atari 800 with FJC Firmware but am having issues. I cannot access the CF card. In the main side loader menu -device I get SIDE: no media OK and an ERROR 139! This appears on the bottom of the screen where it normally says select device. If I hit return or press the joystick button ERROR 139! reappears. I have included a picture of the side loader screen. I have tried numerous CF cards including SANDISK ultra II 4GB, Transend CF300 4gb and a no name 32gb. I also purchased a 128mb CF to try but that also failed. I also tried one CF card that I later discovered was faulty because I could not access it on other devices as well and with that card I got only a blank screen, as with the others I got the menu but with errors. I have tried reformatting the cards to fat32 and fat16 with no luck. Everything else seems to be working except that I cannot access the CF card. I have been able to load programs from cartridges or from devices connected to the SIO port. I have also booted into SpartaDOS and it seems that the CF card is not available their either. All the settings seem to be fine and in fact I got an email in response to my inquiry from vintagecomputercenter.com where I purchased the Incognito with pictures of the proper configuration. My configuration was close to theirs, but I changed it to be exact, and still no luck. Does anyone have any ideas to what the reason I cannot access the CF card could be? Are there any installation errors etc. that could lead to not being able to access the CF card? Any help would be appreciated.
  14. SupeReversion This is a Reversi game I got from some magazine a while back. It's probably one of the best looking Reversi games on any 8-bit computer with it's 3-D style board. I made some modifications such as changed how the pointer works, displays in several random colors, boots from Altirra disk and improved the game play a bit. To play press Option or Select to change player then Start key to start. There is a flashing square you move in 4 directions to the spot where you want to place your piece using the joystick. Press the joystick button to set then piece down. You can play human v. computer, human v. human and even computer v. computer. Enjoy SuperReverse-ALT.atr
  15. For Sale - Vintage Atari 800 in EXCELLENT cosmetic and physical condition. I am asking $245 $215 USD plus shipping (or local pickup). Keyboard and all keys are solid and working. All ports and both cartridge slots work. Nice uniform coloration on the outer case. No visible cracks in the plastic case. This is a collector quality unit. Sale includes Atari 800, BASIC cartridge and original Atari power supply. I opened the case, blew out the dust, saw no modifications, replaced one of the plungers for one of the special keys (OPTION I think). I have been using this unit a couple times a week for the past couple months with no issues. You will be hard pressed to find a better looking 800. Although everything is working for me, I make no guarantee or warranty that it will work for you because being about 40 years old, shipping can be rough on these. I have sold/shipped several of these over the years and know how to pack them for good protection. Local pickup is always welcome (in NC/SC). Otherwise shipping to the U.S. lower 48 usually costs about $35. Message me with questions. Payment via PayPal is preferred. We can discuss other items for purchase if you are interested. I also have good working 1050 drives, 1010 tape units, 400 computers. Many cartridges. Many books, manuals, brochures, some commercial software/games, etc.
  16. Not really sure what this is worth, B]but I thought I would start to sell this here. I was thinking of 50$ let me know if that is to High or to low. It is in great condition and works well. Has the original box and packing. Thanks, Brad
  17. Hi everyone, A little while ago I was able to get an Atari 800 that was in pretty great condition with the exception of a needed cleaning. I decided that I wanted to make a custom keyboard using the original Atari's keyboard with the same switches and PCB. After taking the whole thing apart and separating the keyboard portion I learned the PCB was a Mitsumi KSD hybrid (ksd-a58au). I now don't know where to go because I was unable to find a complete Matrix or a new modernized PCB replacement. I also don't know what to do if I find a matrix as setting up a micro controller to interpret the and transfer it to usb sounded too complex for me. I was wondering where I should go from here. If anyone is able to provide useful information like a matrix or some idea as to how to make the PCB usb compatible it would be very appreciated. Thank you!
  18. Star Raiders w/touch pad & overlay - SOLD SIO cables (3' long) - on eBay 800XL RF cable - recycled 2600 RF switch boxes - recycled Plus shipping from 80138. Feel free to make offers if you don't like the prices ? Thank you
  19. After almost 40 years. I finally purchased an Atari 800 so I can play the 2 games I still had a printout of on real hardware. I had a basic game that I retyped in from compute magazine that I have running on an ATR image. Space Mines was my Assembly game - 4k in length - that I wrote and I have it running on an ATR image by using Binary Load "L" on Dos 2.5. If I want to make Space Mines game a cartridge, with code changes so I can start it at a different address, what would be the quickest and easiest way to make a cartridge? I have a couple of old Brown carts I can open and replace stuff. All the classic consoles/computers sit at the corner of our office. I don't know why my child self liked the name "space" in all my titles. ?
  20. Hung on my wall for many years - recently photographed and restored best I can. http://imgur.com/QL3JYQn Perhaps one day I will recreate in glorious vector. Originally created by: THE COMPUTER CENTER Millrock Rd. Old Saybrook, CT 06475 203-385-1587 ATARI hardware & software. Programming seminars, books, magazines, T.I., Northstar.
  21. I have been testing the waters of Atari APX Pascal recent and have been having an issue with MEDIT blowing up when run from the Pascal menu. I twittered the great Bill Lange who gave me the fix. (1) As you probably know, you have to copy the MEDIT executable over to your work disk image in disk drive D2. In addition, MEDIT needs a minor modification for it to work with the Atari Pascal Language System. (2) With DOS loaded, put the work disk into D1. Use the DOS menu option N to create a MEM.SAV file on the work disk. (3) Using the DOS menu option L, BINARY LOAD MEDIT using the /N (MEDIT/N) option to prevent it from running. This will write to the MEM.SAV file on the work disk. (4) Using the DOS menu option K, BINARY SAVE it back as follows: MEDIT/A, 2600, 2601. This append operation tells the Pascal program point to begin execution at the MEDIT entry point. (5) Put the work disk back in D2. Put APLS Disk #1 in D1. You should now be able to launch MEDIT from the Atari Pascal Monitor. the twitter conversation: https://twitter.com/BillLange1968/status/1087211748921434113 Thanks, Bill Lange
  22. From the album: Atari 800 Keyboard Fix

    Turns out this approach allows for some pretty frantic Defender or Dropzone
  23. Hey all, I'm an old Atari fan since the 70's. Sadly my Atari 800 disappeared long ago after a series of moves, and as I get older I find myself missing it a great deal. I do still have a few cartridge games for it. Interested in buying an Atari 800 in excellent condition. Must be fully working, and include AC adapter and preferably video cables as well. Box and any original materials would be a nice bonus but not a necessity. Would also be nice to have some original Atari joystick/paddle controllers in good shape. Condition means a lot to me, so the cleaner the better. Please let me know if anyone has such a computer to sell. I'm in USA. Thanks.
  24. What I mean is that when you play Atari 5200 games on the Atari 800 using a Sio2sd will all the games play just like they would on a real Atari 5200, no emulation? I'm aware that the systems are very similar but the software is built differently but once you run it will the games play natively? Like is it comparable to other backwards compatible systems like the GBA with gbc and the Ps2 with ps1 games?
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