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Found 33 results

  1. Hello all, My first post, so thank you in advance for a warm welcome to the community and I hope that this is a suitable location for my post As a personal project I challenged myself to recreate Space Invaders from the Atari 800, it was one of the first games I played as a kid and it has fond memories. I managed to find a couple of game play videos online and subsequently the game's manual which was really helpful. One of the forthcoming features is to add the audio, and this is where I find myself a little challenged. I've tried to recreate the game as accurately as possible, but my only avenue for obtaining the audio at this time would be to try to extract it from the YouTube game play videos. This would be less than ideal as a) the quality will be reduced and b) a lot of the sound effects overlap, for example, the space invaders marching whilst the command ship flies across the top of the screen. There are alternatives that I could use but mostly from other versions of Space Invaders and they are just a bit too, well, jazzy compared to this game. I did take a look at the emulators but I was unable to find anything that was just "straight forward", e.g. download, install, run. Even if I had made progress with this, the overlapping sound effects would still be an issue. I was hoping that maybe someone here may be able to help me with this. I've only had a quick scan through the requirements so far, but from what I can see I need the follow effects; Player shooting Player explosion Invader shooting Invader explosion Invader movement Command ship flying Command ship player abduction Any suggestions or help with this would be really appreciated. Thank you in advance for any help and your time in reading.
  2. Hi everyone. I am hoping someone will recognize the issue I'm having with my Atari 800. I think I've narrowed it down to bad RAM, but before I spend any more money I'd like a second opinion. The machine was given to me by a friend who had had it in storage for many years. The plastic chassis was destroyed and I had to disassemble and rebuild it, but the PCBs are all intact and the machine started and was able to run BASIC and other cartridge-based software perfectly. I was also able to load a game from cassette a couple times, though the belts in the cassette decks I was sent degraded rapidly and that stopped working. I recently bought an SD2SIO, and the machine came with an Indus GT. I set to testing these this week, but I can't get anything to load. The specifics of it are peculiar, though. The SD2SIO is set up to load the menu immediately on startup. When I power on the machine, it hits the SD2SIO, spins for a moment, then loads the menu and shows the files on the card. At that point the machine freezes completely. I have tried every possible input - Ctrl+Arrows in particular - and nothing works. The System Reset button also does nothing, which leads me to suspect the CPU is completely hung. When I first tried this I chalked it up to not knowing how to use the SD2SIO and stowed it for a while. I received a cable for hooking up the Indus GT and tried it out finally. I have several disks that should be bootable - a couple boxed games, some commercial applications and some user-created disks labeled as applications. In all cases, when I start the machine the Indus sets to work reading the disk and, for several of the titles I've tried, succeeds in getting a title screen up, but then either it prints an error message or corrupt graphics, the machine hangs, or the screen becomes garbled. Obviously the disks could all be old and tired, but they appear to have been stored well in their original boxes and sleeves and my gut says it's unlikely that they're all bad. The errors are also 100% reproducible, they always fail in exactly the same way for each program. I have cleaned the heads on the Indus. My hunch is that there's some bad RAM a few kilobytes in - since everything seems to load the application data okay but then fritzes out when trying to load content, I'm guessing there's good RAM where the base program code goes but something's fried up where the bulk data tends to get loaded in. The machine has a 16K stock Atari RAM cart and a 32K third party expansion. I've tried all combinations (just the 16K, just the 32K, and swapping the two) and it just changes the way the errors look. My assumption is that the 16K RAM cart has a bad chip, that the 32K RAM cart is not wired in a way that lets it correctly replace the 16K (hence testing with that doesn't solve it), and that I just need to get a new 16K card and I should be golden. Let me know if you think I'm on the right track. Thank you! Here's some pics. Card layout SD2SIO (just hangs here) What happens when I try to load some of the disks I have What happens when I try to load a couple programs that appear to have error handling Funky RAM addon
  3. To help me learn Action! I have started a tutorial on Action! in my Atariage blog. I'm up to lesson 4 on my blog. I post about once a week or so. below is part one. http://atariage.com/forums/blog/528/entry-15422-learning-action/
  4. I'm working on getting Atari 8-Bit set up in RetroPie using the Atari800 emulator and most everything seems to be working just fine except for this: My WASD keys don't deliver any input at all. I've tried multiple keyboards, checked to make sure they aren't currently bound to joystick controls in the emulator and I assume there is somewhere in the emulator which is binding them to "movement" but I can't seem to find it. So right now, any game that requires pressing "S" to start, like the Scott Adams adventure games, I can't do anything with because my "S" key doesn't work. I've scoured Google looking for solution but it seems there aren't many people who have set up Atari800 on the RetroPie because it most certainly isn't the most user friendly of emulators. Anyone else run into this same issue and found a solution? Thank you in advance for your help!
  5. Anyone here remember the 1983 game B.C.'s Quest for Tires? Based on the comic strip B.C. by Johnny Hart (1931-2007), this is basically a clone of Moon Patrol. You play the character of Thor from the B.C. comic strip (not the Marvel comics character), who rides on a stone wheel dodging obstacles on a quest to rescue the Cute Chick. I played the port of Colecovision. It was also ported to the Atari 800, Apple II, MSX and Commodore 64. It was a fun game. Given its similarity to Moon Patrol, I'm surprised that it never got a port to other platforms like the Atari 2600, 5200 or 7800. (Cue to homebrew developers out there!) Anyone else play this game?
  6. All, It seems Candle's original page for installing the Atari 800 Incognito board is down, or gone. I used the Internet Wayback Machine to access the page as it stood before. I am posting it here with appropriate tags so others can hopefully find it with Google. I hope this is not a violation of TOS or Candle's IP. Retrieved using The Internet Wayback Machine: https://web.archive.org/web/20130513213503/http://spiflash.org/index.php/block/30.html 3 Sept 2016 Multiple personalities for trusty old Atari 800 Opening your 800 This is quite easy. All you need to do is remove trap-door, all the expansion card that you have inside (this includes all three RAM carts plus Personality/ROM board. After this, you'll have to turn the unit upside-down, and unscrew 5 screws in the corners, and in the middle of front edge. Now you're able to open the case - lift top of the enclosure just enough to get a hold on keyboard ribbon - disconnect it from the backplane - please take a closer look on how it is connected - ribbon has plug wider than the connector on backplane (motherboard) and you'll have to connect it back just the way it was when reassembling the unit. Now, since you have clear view of power board and aluminium casting covering most of the backplane, disconnect the internal speaker and remove whole casting with all what is connected to it from the case. You'll find loads of screws to be removed on bottom side of the cast holding an aluminium plate to the top part. After this, disconnect 4 pin header leading from backplane to power board, and try to separate the casting from backplane - it will come off with power board, but this is the way it should be. Now the aluminium plate - it holds to the PCB by 4 expansion plugs - they are made from two parts - one is a pin that was inserted in the collar that expanded and made connection permanent, you need to use small flat-headed screwdriver to push it all the way out, so you'll be able to remove the collar. What you should have now, is the backplane PCB together with CPU board and plastic part that forms cartridge slot covers and expansion cards compartment. To get rid of it you'll have to gently pry and push four snap-ins you find accessible on the bottom of backplane PCB. Since you already have all that was required separate, you may proceed with installation. Readjusting the cutout It is nice to have Personality slot opening a bit wider than it is originally, so you can pass ribbon cable and auxiliary connectors cables freely. Please see the picture for the details. Some might think it not the best idea, but this way nothing gets compressed as it will be reassembled and the chances of getting something short-circuit are almost nil. Jumper wires You'll have to make two jumper connections on your board (see the pictures) - one connects REF signal from memory slots to the not used pin on personality slot - and this is essential for emulated MMU chip on Incognito board The other is a jumper between RNMI and COLD-RESET pins, so that CPU would be in known state when the board is re-initialised. Remember than 400/800 had no real RESET, instead it had Request NMI line (sometimes referred as to RESET NMI) that did some kind of software reset - as this was OK for 400/800 system, when ROM was connected to the system bus permanently, it's not acceptable for XL/XE when you can disconnect ROM by writing to PORTB. BIOS will handle RESET vector and redirect CPU to the valid location instead. Making connections for auxiliary header P5 This is essential for true XL/XE compatibility, as there are signals you need to tap in that are not present anywhere else in the system. These are: • pin #1 - HALT - necessary for ANTIC extended memory access (so called CompyShop mode) • pin #2 - IRQ - required by some PBI devices • pin #3 & 4 - RD4 and RD5 - controlling cartridge port in XL/XE series (mandatory) • pin #5 - RNMI - that becomes our RESET line (mandatory) • pin #6 - RDY - another signal required only by some PBI devices Please see the picture for tapping points for all these signals. Additionally, you may want to replace RD4/RD5 pulldown resistors to something ranging from 1.5k to 2.2kOhms. It will improve compatibility with cartridges, as protection resistors on Incognito board form with original ones voltage divider that may render some carts unusable. ATR change button, HDD activity LED, connector P6 If you want to use these features, you'll have to make some readjustments to power board - this way you won't have to drill any ugly holes in your 800 case, instead it will be as discreet as it can be - after this, your light conductor just under START button becomes another button, just for cycling mounted ATR files, and it still serves it purpose as power indicator plus hard disk activity indicator. P6 pinout goes as follows: • pin #1 - HDD LED anode • pin #2 - HDD LED cathode • pin #3 - switch To accomplish this, follow the pictures. Replacing 74LS42 with ribbon cable You need to remove 74LS42 chip (location Z101) and replace it with ribbon cable that was included in the kit. Fold the cable as shown. Putting everything back together Now you should have everything prepared for the Incognito board, all you have to do is to reassemble your unit. Start with taking the ribbon and the P5 and P6 header cables through the opening you cut in the plastic part of expansion boards compartment. When you done, put the compartment back in its place - it should snap back in and stay firmly attached to the PCB. Now proceed with the aluminium plate. Align it so holes in PCB match holes in the plate, and then put the expandable collars in those holes. When you put first one take that pin you've taken out of it, and put it back - this will fix the plate and easier the align of remaining holes. When completed you should reassemble the casting with the backplane PCB - just don't start screwing it tight again, as it will be better if you check everything up before you do that. Install the Incognito board in first slot (the one that was occupied by ROM board) and turn the unit on - Incognito BIOS screen should show up. If it doesn't - recheck all your connections, especially those two jumper wires and RD4/RD5/RNMI lines. Please make sure you didn't short circuit anything during the reassembly, as shorting any xilinx pin directly to the one of power rails (5V -5V or 12V) will kill it instantly
  7. Hello all, I recently pulled my Atari 800 out of storage and tried hooking up Lotharek's SIO2SD. The Atari works just fine. I hooked the SIO2SD up to my Atari 800XL and it works great. However, when I plug the SIO2SD into the 800 I get the following screen: If I hit reset the Atari starts to boot the SIO2SD.xex then freezes. The follow is what appears on the SIO2SD: I think I turned the SIO High Speed feature off? Shift F3. Not sure. Can someone help me get the SIO2SD device working with the ATARI 800? Thanks
  8. Listed my Incognito on ebay. item# 182011281277 Shipping anywhere, no reserve set. It's a glorious device, but I'm just never going to get around to installing it.
  9. I picked up this cart and I didn't recall seeing it before, and I'm betting it is on every cart, but it's neat anyway. Kinda makes me want to put paper over it and scribble out the pattern. ian
  10. Hi all, I'm using Altirra 2.10 to emulate an Atari 800 (or 800XL, or 1200XL, issue is the same). I am booting Atari DOS 2.5 with the BASIC Rev. C cartridge attached, and a host device (H:) to save files. This works fine except for two things: 1. Cannot enter lowercase text at all 2. Cannot enter inverted (high-ATASCII) text at all Yes, I'm kind of a n00b to Atari 8-bit emulation, and would like to try out some BASIC programs which use lowercase and invented chars in PRINT statements. Altirra's helpfile claims that Caps-Lock and End should enable lowercase and inverted text respectively, but it simply does not work. So I'm starting to believe there's something obvious that I'm missing due to my lack of Atari knowledge. Any ideas?
  11. In another thread, I asked about what to do with an Atari 800 with a CTIA: http://www.atariage....-ctia-what-now/ I'd like to sell this to someone who wants an 800 with a CTIA, knowing what that means. However, I'm not sure of the value. So, I'm hoping to gauge interest in it while also getting a ballpark figure for its value. The unit is in nice shape, with some dirt in the "grain" of its case, but nothing that can't be scrubbed out. No cracks or other defects. The unit came with an unidentified memory card in the slot closest to the rear. The other three slots are taken up by one 10K ROM and two 16K RAM cards. Everything seems to work as it should. I have a SALT 2.05 if anyone wants me to check anything. Thanks for your interest.
  12. I need serial (in/out) MIDI cable or MIDI interface schematic (scheme) which will works with Raster´s Midi Pattern Editor on ATARI 800 . http://raster.infos....tari/mpe2v3.zip Screenshots>
  13. Hello After cleaning and restoring my Atari 800, I made a slideshow : Enjoy ! Thanks for watching ! gameplayerspecial.com
  14. Hi. I'm trying to extract music from one demo file (X-Files, The (1988-02-01)(SHP)(pl)[stereo]), all I get after extracting is 14 corrupted 1Kb files. I tried to use ATADIM, makeATR, Altirra, etc- no luck... Are there any chances to extract the sound files? Thanks in advance for any help P.S. The demo file itself- http://nitroroms.com/show/file-info/L45161/Atari_8Bit/X-Files,%20The%20(1988-02-01)(SHP)(Pl)[stereo].atr.html
  15. I have a CTIA Atari 800 that is in great cosmetic condition. I also have a later 800 that I'm using for parts, and I was wondering whether "upgrading" the CTIA on the original 800 would be as simple as swapping the CPU daughtercards (see photo). Or can I swap the GTIA for the GTIA directly? I'm not positive I want to do this because I like having the "original" CTIA 800, but I just wanted to know if I could. Thanks for any advice.
  16. UPDATE - Problem seems to be solved, current game date is October 5, 1941, on intermediate skill. Solution seems to be playing on higher skill level. Hello! Brand new to the site, please forgive my mistakes at this tender age. For my first post, I have a question about a game. Eastern Front 1941, on an Atari 800 with 48k RAM. Running on real hardware, no emulation. I'm currently playing and am becoming increasingly frustrated by the fact that I cannot get passed turn 14. I have read through the manual several times and researched on the internet for the passed 3 days. I do understand the mechanics of moving, attacking, supply, etc enough that I can push the russians around pretty well, but no matter what I do I invariably get a Game Over on September 28th game time, or turn 14. I'm testing out the different difficulty levels as I am typing this post, on intermediate right now, but I expect the same result. All sources say the game runs for 41 turns, and ends on March 29, 1942. What is wrong? Is my cartidge damaged? Is there something about the game that the manual isn't telling me? Is my computer broken? Thanks for any helpful input!
  17. Genuine Atari C017945 Power Supply 400/800/1200XL. Tested on an Atari 800 computer and it worked perfectly. $9.99 plus shipping from 80138.
  18. Hello, I just was using this Atari 800XL, and without reason, the "U" key seems as pressed but nobody is pressing the key. (see video, sorry for quality and few background sounds. ). https://youtu.be/msnZSZTz8a0 Dirty?, maylar issues?, key system broke? Any suggest, comments, are welcome. Best Regards.
  19. Hi, fellow Atari fans. I have an Atari 800 lid/hood conundrum. I have been driving myself mad for the last 3 hours trying to re-attach the lid (or hood) on a 800 model. Incased ROM/OS with latches. I seem to have stumbled across a paradoxical riddle to which there is no solution or answer or I have failed a rudimentary intelligence test and I am in fact very dumb, which is my preferred outcome if I can get this frigging lid back on before I fire my 800 out of a cannon into the stratosphere. I should point out that the Atari power latch works fine and that the lid was on fine before I slotted it out and nothing is missing or broken apart from my will to live. (i'm of course exaggerating ; ) I will offer a CIB Designers Pencil cart to who ever helps me get this lid back on. If I use a combination of answers i'll add runner up gifts for any help I use. I 30 second video would be amazing and win (should only take 30 seconds) not 3 hrs my current time wresting this beast to no avail. Here is my problem. Any Q? fire away. Forget the plastic latches for a moment as I cant even figure this out after removing them. If I remove the screws (which should not even be necessary) the lid will only fit in to the correct position leaving a 8mm gap at the back of the casing where the hood should sit into it's 2cm ingress. When the back of the hood is in the correct position the screws can no longer be attached because the bottom hood metal plate is now 3mm into the where the screw should be! making it impossible to fit the lid. I can see the latches are supposed to sit on top of the metal plate but i cant seem to achieve this without the back of the hood not being connected as it should. Pic 1 - correct position of hood metal lip under where screw should sit on top to secure = pic 2 8mm gap at the back of the hood where it should be nestled into ingress. Pic 3 - incorrect positioning of the metal lip now no room to put the screw = Pic 4 a perfect fit! at the back but then the hood is not attached. What on earth am I doing wrong?
  20. I have an Atari 800 with a keyboard that has 8 or 9 non-working keys. I have read on several threads about having to repair the mylar layer so I took everything apart and attempted the separation of PCB from key frame, but the PCB did NOT want to come off. I applied enough force that I feared cracking the edges of the PCB so I gave up. It was like the PCB was glued or soldered in place. While it was apart I cleaned all the card edge contacts and reseated all the boards (I did not reseat the ICs). So then I reassembled everything including the case, added a small shot of De-Oxit into a few non-working keys. That did not help so far. Further reading shows that there were several different makers. I did not know that while I had it open, or I would have written down the name from the board. I don't remember it. Are there other variants that are not mylar based? And if so, what would be best? Just the repeated key activations? I'll describe what I remember: - The attached ribbon cable was fairly thick and multicolored with red-brown female connector. - 9 attachment screws, could not find one under the tape area. However, removal of the screws did NOT loosen the PCB in the slightest. - Heavy grey plastic frame - keyboard unit as a whole was very heavy and solid. My next steps would probably be to spray under each non-working key with deoxit (I only did 2 so far), exercise them for a long(er) time, let it dry and retest. Should I open it back up and get the name of the board? Any other suggestions are welcome. thank you!
  21. Hello All, I just purchased an Atari 800 but am having a problem at switch on. Basically I get a screen full of zeros, when I power up with no BASIC or game carts installed. I have the OS cartridge fitted in slot1 and 16K carts in slots 2 & 3. To power the computer I am actually using a VIC-20 power supply but I checked the spec and this is almost identical to the Atari 9V AC power supply, so I am sure this is not the problem. Initially I had an additional 16K RAM cart installed but with this I just got a blank red screen at switch on, so removed it as I presume there is a fault with one of the RAM chips. If I swap around the remaining RAM carts it does not make any difference. I have also tried re-seating all the chips on the carts and inside the machine and cleaning all edge connectors From a quick look around on the internet it seems like it could be a fault with the ANTIC chip. I do have an Atari 800XL but I am not sure if I could swap the ANTIC chip from this to test. I have also tried a number of game carts and found the sound and some graphics e.g. sprites, do work fine. See below links to the three I have tried http://youtu.be/xmrMnIcxV4I http://youtu.be/wdNFOZFFdwE http://youtu.be/-aMSCMpIx8M Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
  22. Tonight I am left with a bit of a quandry. The past two days I have been playing with my working Atari 400 (have one that just comes up a black screen) and decided to dig out my 800. It works fine as always, but I also decided to dig out the 'parts' 800 I was given a few years back. The second 800 is missing several keys on the keyboard, and several of the remaining ones don't work. I had been keeping it as a parts machine because I thought the boards were flakey. (In fact, I scavenged the internal speaker from it when the one in my good 800 died.) I decided to clean and reseat the ROM and RAM boards before I put the unit away, never actually trying it again until tonight. Well, it appears to be working and stable! I can't remember how much RAM it has, but it seemed to boot up Atariwriter and Atari Artist OK. I know those programs flake if the RAM is too low and they won't work on my 400 with 16K. Now, I am left wondering if I should try to find an affordable keyboard and speaker for the second unit or just keep it for parts? I can't do eBay, so that's out for parts.
  23. This is a strange motherboard, runs for about two hours then locks up with video and audio random scrambles on the screen. When powered cycle it will run normally for another 1-2 hours. I tried swapping out the OS card, RAM, and POKEY with known working chips. The board was cleaned and so was the keyboard. Case was cleaned. A good candidate for retrobrite. It might be one electrolytic cap on the middle left of the main board that needs replacement. The keyboard port works, video port works, SIO port works, all the joystick ports work. Includes keyboard, power socket works. The electrolytc caps, and regulators on the power supply board were replaced and tested ok for voltages. Shipping from 98686 17lbs.
  24. Here is a working, hard to find 80 column display card from Newell Industries called the Ramrod. Paper manual and installation instructions included. This card replaces the OS card with a OS B, The fast math ROM, and your choice of Omniview, omnimon, or 4KB SRAM in the address space of c000-cffff. Incliudes the Omniview 80 column display rom add on. Toggles on in basic or DOS by jumping to address C000 or calling x=usr(49152). You can also swap that rom chip for the Omnimon for assembler/testing/cracking. Included is 2 2KB SRAMs it you want to use that 4KB space for programs. The display looks best using a monitor that uses separate luma and chroma and plug in only the luma. Manual and documentation on archive.org Free flat rate shipping USPS to the US.
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