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Found 49 results

  1. I spent some long hours playing a game on my friend's Atari 800: A vertical-scrolling game where you fly a little (small sprite) helicopter down into some underground tunnels. Eventually the tunnels start flooding with water, and you have to get back up and out in time. Anyone else remember what this game was called?
  2. SupeReversion This is a Reversi game I got from some magazine a while back. It's probably one of the best looking Reversi games on any 8-bit computer with it's 3-D style board. I made some modifications such as changed how the pointer works, displays in several random colors, boots from Altirra disk and improved the game play a bit. To play press Option or Select to change player then Start key to start. There is a flashing square you move in 4 directions to the spot where you want to place your piece using the joystick. Press the joystick button to set then piece down. You can play human v. computer, human v. human and even computer v. computer. Enjoy SuperReverse-ALT.atr
  3. For Sale - Vintage Atari 800 in EXCELLENT cosmetic and physical condition. I am asking $245 $215 USD plus shipping (or local pickup). Keyboard and all keys are solid and working. All ports and both cartridge slots work. Nice uniform coloration on the outer case. No visible cracks in the plastic case. This is a collector quality unit. Sale includes Atari 800, BASIC cartridge and original Atari power supply. I opened the case, blew out the dust, saw no modifications, replaced one of the plungers for one of the special keys (OPTION I think). I have been using this unit a couple times a week for the past couple months with no issues. You will be hard pressed to find a better looking 800. Although everything is working for me, I make no guarantee or warranty that it will work for you because being about 40 years old, shipping can be rough on these. I have sold/shipped several of these over the years and know how to pack them for good protection. Local pickup is always welcome (in NC/SC). Otherwise shipping to the U.S. lower 48 usually costs about $35. Message me with questions. Payment via PayPal is preferred. We can discuss other items for purchase if you are interested. I also have good working 1050 drives, 1010 tape units, 400 computers. Many cartridges. Many books, manuals, brochures, some commercial software/games, etc.
  4. Hi everyone, A little while ago I was able to get an Atari 800 that was in pretty great condition with the exception of a needed cleaning. I decided that I wanted to make a custom keyboard using the original Atari's keyboard with the same switches and PCB. After taking the whole thing apart and separating the keyboard portion I learned the PCB was a Mitsumi KSD hybrid (ksd-a58au). I now don't know where to go because I was unable to find a complete Matrix or a new modernized PCB replacement. I also don't know what to do if I find a matrix as setting up a micro controller to interpret the and transfer it to usb sounded too complex for me. I was wondering where I should go from here. If anyone is able to provide useful information like a matrix or some idea as to how to make the PCB usb compatible it would be very appreciated. Thank you!
  5. Hello all, I recently pulled my Atari 800 out of storage and tried hooking up Lotharek's SIO2SD. The Atari works just fine. I hooked the SIO2SD up to my Atari 800XL and it works great. However, when I plug the SIO2SD into the 800 I get the following screen: If I hit reset the Atari starts to boot the SIO2SD.xex then freezes. The follow is what appears on the SIO2SD: I think I turned the SIO High Speed feature off? Shift F3. Not sure. Can someone help me get the SIO2SD device working with the ATARI 800? Thanks
  6. Listed my Incognito on ebay. item# 182011281277 Shipping anywhere, no reserve set. It's a glorious device, but I'm just never going to get around to installing it.
  7. I'm working on getting Atari 8-Bit set up in RetroPie using the Atari800 emulator and most everything seems to be working just fine except for this: My WASD keys don't deliver any input at all. I've tried multiple keyboards, checked to make sure they aren't currently bound to joystick controls in the emulator and I assume there is somewhere in the emulator which is binding them to "movement" but I can't seem to find it. So right now, any game that requires pressing "S" to start, like the Scott Adams adventure games, I can't do anything with because my "S" key doesn't work. I've scoured Google looking for solution but it seems there aren't many people who have set up Atari800 on the RetroPie because it most certainly isn't the most user friendly of emulators. Anyone else run into this same issue and found a solution? Thank you in advance for your help!
  8. What I mean is that when you play Atari 5200 games on the Atari 800 using a Sio2sd will all the games play just like they would on a real Atari 5200, no emulation? I'm aware that the systems are very similar but the software is built differently but once you run it will the games play natively? Like is it comparable to other backwards compatible systems like the GBA with gbc and the Ps2 with ps1 games?
  9. This is very preliminary, and not everything works as it should, but it does do something... board is connected through standard vbxe breakout board for atari xe series that was soldered in as low as it was possible on CPU board, and then ribbon cable with male and female connectors was fed through the cutout in expansion bay plastic cover just under aluminium casting as for clock, you need to remove Q103 and connec a wire from VBXE 3.5mhz clock out signal to pin D of CPU board connector D6xx signal is present on pin P of SLOT3 expansion connector and all the other signal are provided by Incognito PBI connector for CSYNC, output from LUMA signal (R189) was used and this concludes current state of the installation do not treat this as a definitive guide, as just some things do work, but maybe some of you would like to try to install it anyways
  10. Anyone here remember the 1983 game B.C.'s Quest for Tires? Based on the comic strip B.C. by Johnny Hart (1931-2007), this is basically a clone of Moon Patrol. You play the character of Thor from the B.C. comic strip (not the Marvel comics character), who rides on a stone wheel dodging obstacles on a quest to rescue the Cute Chick. I played the port of Colecovision. It was also ported to the Atari 800, Apple II, MSX and Commodore 64. It was a fun game. Given its similarity to Moon Patrol, I'm surprised that it never got a port to other platforms like the Atari 2600, 5200 or 7800. (Cue to homebrew developers out there!) Anyone else play this game?
  11. Hi everyone. I am hoping someone will recognize the issue I'm having with my Atari 800. I think I've narrowed it down to bad RAM, but before I spend any more money I'd like a second opinion. The machine was given to me by a friend who had had it in storage for many years. The plastic chassis was destroyed and I had to disassemble and rebuild it, but the PCBs are all intact and the machine started and was able to run BASIC and other cartridge-based software perfectly. I was also able to load a game from cassette a couple times, though the belts in the cassette decks I was sent degraded rapidly and that stopped working. I recently bought an SD2SIO, and the machine came with an Indus GT. I set to testing these this week, but I can't get anything to load. The specifics of it are peculiar, though. The SD2SIO is set up to load the menu immediately on startup. When I power on the machine, it hits the SD2SIO, spins for a moment, then loads the menu and shows the files on the card. At that point the machine freezes completely. I have tried every possible input - Ctrl+Arrows in particular - and nothing works. The System Reset button also does nothing, which leads me to suspect the CPU is completely hung. When I first tried this I chalked it up to not knowing how to use the SD2SIO and stowed it for a while. I received a cable for hooking up the Indus GT and tried it out finally. I have several disks that should be bootable - a couple boxed games, some commercial applications and some user-created disks labeled as applications. In all cases, when I start the machine the Indus sets to work reading the disk and, for several of the titles I've tried, succeeds in getting a title screen up, but then either it prints an error message or corrupt graphics, the machine hangs, or the screen becomes garbled. Obviously the disks could all be old and tired, but they appear to have been stored well in their original boxes and sleeves and my gut says it's unlikely that they're all bad. The errors are also 100% reproducible, they always fail in exactly the same way for each program. I have cleaned the heads on the Indus. My hunch is that there's some bad RAM a few kilobytes in - since everything seems to load the application data okay but then fritzes out when trying to load content, I'm guessing there's good RAM where the base program code goes but something's fried up where the bulk data tends to get loaded in. The machine has a 16K stock Atari RAM cart and a 32K third party expansion. I've tried all combinations (just the 16K, just the 32K, and swapping the two) and it just changes the way the errors look. My assumption is that the 16K RAM cart has a bad chip, that the 32K RAM cart is not wired in a way that lets it correctly replace the 16K (hence testing with that doesn't solve it), and that I just need to get a new 16K card and I should be golden. Let me know if you think I'm on the right track. Thank you! Here's some pics. Card layout SD2SIO (just hangs here) What happens when I try to load some of the disks I have What happens when I try to load a couple programs that appear to have error handling Funky RAM addon
  12. All, It seems Candle's original page for installing the Atari 800 Incognito board is down, or gone. I used the Internet Wayback Machine to access the page as it stood before. I am posting it here with appropriate tags so others can hopefully find it with Google. I hope this is not a violation of TOS or Candle's IP. Retrieved using The Internet Wayback Machine: https://web.archive.org/web/20130513213503/http://spiflash.org/index.php/block/30.html 3 Sept 2016 Multiple personalities for trusty old Atari 800 Opening your 800 This is quite easy. All you need to do is remove trap-door, all the expansion card that you have inside (this includes all three RAM carts plus Personality/ROM board. After this, you'll have to turn the unit upside-down, and unscrew 5 screws in the corners, and in the middle of front edge. Now you're able to open the case - lift top of the enclosure just enough to get a hold on keyboard ribbon - disconnect it from the backplane - please take a closer look on how it is connected - ribbon has plug wider than the connector on backplane (motherboard) and you'll have to connect it back just the way it was when reassembling the unit. Now, since you have clear view of power board and aluminium casting covering most of the backplane, disconnect the internal speaker and remove whole casting with all what is connected to it from the case. You'll find loads of screws to be removed on bottom side of the cast holding an aluminium plate to the top part. After this, disconnect 4 pin header leading from backplane to power board, and try to separate the casting from backplane - it will come off with power board, but this is the way it should be. Now the aluminium plate - it holds to the PCB by 4 expansion plugs - they are made from two parts - one is a pin that was inserted in the collar that expanded and made connection permanent, you need to use small flat-headed screwdriver to push it all the way out, so you'll be able to remove the collar. What you should have now, is the backplane PCB together with CPU board and plastic part that forms cartridge slot covers and expansion cards compartment. To get rid of it you'll have to gently pry and push four snap-ins you find accessible on the bottom of backplane PCB. Since you already have all that was required separate, you may proceed with installation. Readjusting the cutout It is nice to have Personality slot opening a bit wider than it is originally, so you can pass ribbon cable and auxiliary connectors cables freely. Please see the picture for the details. Some might think it not the best idea, but this way nothing gets compressed as it will be reassembled and the chances of getting something short-circuit are almost nil. Jumper wires You'll have to make two jumper connections on your board (see the pictures) - one connects REF signal from memory slots to the not used pin on personality slot - and this is essential for emulated MMU chip on Incognito board The other is a jumper between RNMI and COLD-RESET pins, so that CPU would be in known state when the board is re-initialised. Remember than 400/800 had no real RESET, instead it had Request NMI line (sometimes referred as to RESET NMI) that did some kind of software reset - as this was OK for 400/800 system, when ROM was connected to the system bus permanently, it's not acceptable for XL/XE when you can disconnect ROM by writing to PORTB. BIOS will handle RESET vector and redirect CPU to the valid location instead. Making connections for auxiliary header P5 This is essential for true XL/XE compatibility, as there are signals you need to tap in that are not present anywhere else in the system. These are: • pin #1 - HALT - necessary for ANTIC extended memory access (so called CompyShop mode) • pin #2 - IRQ - required by some PBI devices • pin #3 & 4 - RD4 and RD5 - controlling cartridge port in XL/XE series (mandatory) • pin #5 - RNMI - that becomes our RESET line (mandatory) • pin #6 - RDY - another signal required only by some PBI devices Please see the picture for tapping points for all these signals. Additionally, you may want to replace RD4/RD5 pulldown resistors to something ranging from 1.5k to 2.2kOhms. It will improve compatibility with cartridges, as protection resistors on Incognito board form with original ones voltage divider that may render some carts unusable. ATR change button, HDD activity LED, connector P6 If you want to use these features, you'll have to make some readjustments to power board - this way you won't have to drill any ugly holes in your 800 case, instead it will be as discreet as it can be - after this, your light conductor just under START button becomes another button, just for cycling mounted ATR files, and it still serves it purpose as power indicator plus hard disk activity indicator. P6 pinout goes as follows: • pin #1 - HDD LED anode • pin #2 - HDD LED cathode • pin #3 - switch To accomplish this, follow the pictures. Replacing 74LS42 with ribbon cable You need to remove 74LS42 chip (location Z101) and replace it with ribbon cable that was included in the kit. Fold the cable as shown. Putting everything back together Now you should have everything prepared for the Incognito board, all you have to do is to reassemble your unit. Start with taking the ribbon and the P5 and P6 header cables through the opening you cut in the plastic part of expansion boards compartment. When you done, put the compartment back in its place - it should snap back in and stay firmly attached to the PCB. Now proceed with the aluminium plate. Align it so holes in PCB match holes in the plate, and then put the expandable collars in those holes. When you put first one take that pin you've taken out of it, and put it back - this will fix the plate and easier the align of remaining holes. When completed you should reassemble the casting with the backplane PCB - just don't start screwing it tight again, as it will be better if you check everything up before you do that. Install the Incognito board in first slot (the one that was occupied by ROM board) and turn the unit on - Incognito BIOS screen should show up. If it doesn't - recheck all your connections, especially those two jumper wires and RD4/RD5/RNMI lines. Please make sure you didn't short circuit anything during the reassembly, as shorting any xilinx pin directly to the one of power rails (5V -5V or 12V) will kill it instantly
  13. I picked up this cart and I didn't recall seeing it before, and I'm betting it is on every cart, but it's neat anyway. Kinda makes me want to put paper over it and scribble out the pattern. ian
  14. Hi all, I'm using Altirra 2.10 to emulate an Atari 800 (or 800XL, or 1200XL, issue is the same). I am booting Atari DOS 2.5 with the BASIC Rev. C cartridge attached, and a host device (H:) to save files. This works fine except for two things: 1. Cannot enter lowercase text at all 2. Cannot enter inverted (high-ATASCII) text at all Yes, I'm kind of a n00b to Atari 8-bit emulation, and would like to try out some BASIC programs which use lowercase and invented chars in PRINT statements. Altirra's helpfile claims that Caps-Lock and End should enable lowercase and inverted text respectively, but it simply does not work. So I'm starting to believe there's something obvious that I'm missing due to my lack of Atari knowledge. Any ideas?
  15. Star Raiders w/touch pad & overlay - SOLD SIO cables (3' long) - on eBay 800XL RF cable - recycled 2600 RF switch boxes - recycled Plus shipping from 80138. Feel free to make offers if you don't like the prices 😎 Thank you
  16. I have a bunch of Atari floppy drives I'd like to test (810s, 1050s, an XF551, a Percom and some others). I've looked around for New Old Stock 5 1/4" floppy disks and I've found some, but I'm not sure which sources to trust. When did manufactures stop making new 5 1/4" DD disks? I imagine it was probably in the early-to-mid-1990s. Is there a reliable source in the United States for double-density 5 1/4" floppy disks that are still shrink-wrapped? Adam
  17. ======================== EDIT: These items are no longer available. ======================== I recently came into possession of a decent sized collection of Atari gear. I grew up playing games and computing on similar Atari hardware so I'm somewhat familiar with the gear. Despite most of the gear being in excellent condition, it was destined for a trip to the electronics recycler. Recognizing the historical significance of the gear, I snatched it up to ensure that it can live on. I'm looking to sell and redistribute the gear to the community of enthusiasts here to ensure that it can be preserved and enjoyed for many more years. I spent many hours cataloging, testing hardware, photographing everything, and uploading photos. I've done my best to test and verify the functionality of most of the gear in this listing. You can see a list of everything that I have here: https://bit.ly/2qeRtAA Each item includes link to an imgur.com posting with photos. Most items also include a note about the condition of the item. Sorry, it's not the most convenient way to view everything in one shot but it works for me. I didn't include prices on my spreadsheet as I don't really have the time to determine the value of each item. In many ways, the value is really determined by the community here anyway. I would simply ask, if you would like to make an offer for anything on the list, make it a reasonable offer. Also, keep in mind there are shipping costs. Some of the larger items may incur significant shipping costs. I can certainly offer local pickup for anyone in my area. I'm located in south central Pennsylvania (York, PA area). https://goo.gl/maps/bWMy8WTxebmbAu54A Contact me via email or PM if you're interested.
  18. Hey all, I'm an old Atari fan since the 70's. Sadly my Atari 800 disappeared long ago after a series of moves, and as I get older I find myself missing it a great deal. I do still have a few cartridge games for it. Interested in buying an Atari 800 in excellent condition. Must be fully working, and include AC adapter and preferably video cables as well. Box and any original materials would be a nice bonus but not a necessity. Would also be nice to have some original Atari joystick/paddle controllers in good shape. Condition means a lot to me, so the cleaner the better. Please let me know if anyone has such a computer to sell. I'm in USA. Thanks.
  19. Hi. I'm trying to extract music from one demo file (X-Files, The (1988-02-01)(SHP)(pl)[stereo]), all I get after extracting is 14 corrupted 1Kb files. I tried to use ATADIM, makeATR, Altirra, etc- no luck... Are there any chances to extract the sound files? Thanks in advance for any help P.S. The demo file itself- http://nitroroms.com/show/file-info/L45161/Atari_8Bit/X-Files,%20The%20(1988-02-01)(SHP)(Pl)[stereo].atr.html
  20. I need serial (in/out) MIDI cable or MIDI interface schematic (scheme) which will works with Raster´s Midi Pattern Editor on ATARI 800 . http://raster.infos....tari/mpe2v3.zip Screenshots>
  21. In another thread, I asked about what to do with an Atari 800 with a CTIA: http://www.atariage....-ctia-what-now/ I'd like to sell this to someone who wants an 800 with a CTIA, knowing what that means. However, I'm not sure of the value. So, I'm hoping to gauge interest in it while also getting a ballpark figure for its value. The unit is in nice shape, with some dirt in the "grain" of its case, but nothing that can't be scrubbed out. No cracks or other defects. The unit came with an unidentified memory card in the slot closest to the rear. The other three slots are taken up by one 10K ROM and two 16K RAM cards. Everything seems to work as it should. I have a SALT 2.05 if anyone wants me to check anything. Thanks for your interest.
  22. Hello After cleaning and restoring my Atari 800, I made a slideshow : Enjoy ! Thanks for watching ! gameplayerspecial.com
  23. Purpose The goal of this competition is to have fun, share your experiences with others and test your skill at surviving in one of the greatest, most challenging, ground-breaking sandbox RPG games of the 20th century, Alternate Reality: The City for Atari 800 published in 1985. All players will receive a rank and posting of their highest character, so share your screenshots and videos and have fun participating! See setup, rules, tips, and survival guide below. CURRENT PLAYER RANKINGS #1 Jim Norris #2 Dan0 #3 Chunder #4 axewater #5 dgiors #6 Xebec's Demise #7 Gunstar #8 WestofHouse #9 SilverAR #10 smartwhois #11 Goochman #12 Chenzy #13 Angry Jedi #14 Bunsen #15 eclecticmonk Atari 800 emulator The Alternate Reality Wrapper will automates playing and disk swaps: http://www.giors.com...oadarwrappernow Or you manually setup and use an Atari 800 emulator to play Alternate Reality on your PC or MAC, see instructions here. Rules For the purposes of the competition, you only have one life, no character editing or backups allowed. Have fun seeing just how far you really can make it in this hostile alien virtual world with one life and no saves. If you make mistakes try to overcome them. If you die and want to try again, start over. This is a challenging game and you will likely have a handful of characters die before surviving past the first few levels, but keep trying! Take a screenshot of your initial skills to share here with others. F10 takes a screenshot in Atari800win Plus. Have fun sharing other interesting screenshots and stories too! Most of all, just have fun playing and trying to surviving in one of the most incredible virtual world games of its time! Tips Create or use a map. Here is the original game map and a completed map (spoiler). You may also print this 64x64 (City size) blank graph paper to map yourself. Try playing a good aligned character. That way only half the population will be out to kill you and you will be pretty safe during the day. To do this, only attack neutral beings such as thieves, muggers, fighters and warriors if they take a swing at you first. Do not try to Trick them or Charm them; only try these acts on evil beings. If you surprise a neutral being like a mugger or fighter, always Hail them. If they Attack you, then you are free to attack back. The Following is a list of evil beings. Dragons, Thieves and Warrior classes are not evil. They are neutral, but their intro sounds similar to that of evil beings so be careful. Notice that the only evil human life form is the Assassin!: Assasin Orc Giant Rat Black Slime Spectre Imp Gnoll Troll Wolf Ghost Zombie Ghoul Goblin Nightstalker Brown Mold Wraith Gremlin Skeleton The first thing you should do is try to buy a Dagger or Stiletto. Straight from the floating gate go to Occums Weaponsmiths 19E, 32N hours 05:00-21:59 in the NW of town. If he does not have a Dagger or Stiletto then go to Sharp Weaponsmiths 54E, 9N hours 04:00-20:59 in the SE of town. Usually one or the other will have one. Occums is the cheapest by 23%. You can usually make an initial offer of less than half of the asking price. For example, if the Dagger is being sold for 200, then start by offering 90. Keep bargaining by meeting the Smithy a little less than half way of his counter offer i.e. if you Offer 90 and he counters with 130, then Offer 110. You should be able to buy a Dagger or Stiletto for between 100-120 Coppers depending on your CHR and skill at bartering. The very next thing you must do is head straight to the Tavern in the NW corner of town, 20E, 62N, (See map linked below) whether you were able to buy a Weapon or not. You can find or buy a weapon later, but for now you need to supply with food and water. After entering the City Wall, turn right or East and go through 19 secret doors. To be safe, after 18, you can turn right or south and try to enter. If you have counted correctly you will not be able to. Just turn left or back east and go through one more, turn right or south again and try to enter. You should enter the Tavern. If not, and you have messed up your counting somewhere, continue checking every south section of wall until you find it. If you go further than 19 secret doors you will have to exit the City wall and start over, so if you lose count, then try to error on the low end as you can keep checking until you find it. Once you have located the Tavern, go inside and buy a free Water. This will help save your Water Flasks from being used. Then, if you have any money, buy as many Food Packets and Water Flasks as you can, saving about 10 copper so that you can pay for an Inn. Buy Food Packets/Pemmican and Water Flasks so you always have twice as many Water Flasks as Food Packets. This is because Water Flasks are used up twice as fast. Pemmican = 1 Food Packet and only costs 16 Copper. If you do not have any money, then wait outside the Tavern and try to get some by defeating evil or neutral (if they attack first) beings. You can continue to go into the Tavern to get Free Water ever couple of hours so that your Water Flasks do not get used. You can tell an hour has passed, by the white text on the screen flashing ever 2:50 for NTSC and every 3:50 for PAL displays. Its a good idea to use a stopwatch to keep track of the hours, that way you do not have to watch for the text to flash. If the Tavern does not have Water Flasks or Food Packets/Pemmican, the menu will change every hour, so keep checking. Try to stock up with as much food and water as possible, remembering to keep about 10 coppers to sleep. If at any time, you are very low in Hit Points or Tired, then turn left or East, go through two secret doors, turn right or South and exit the City Wall. Head SW to the Warriors Retreat Inn 28E, 54N (see map linked below) and Sleep on the Common Area Floor for 12 Hours for 7 Copper. Try to go to sleep before it gets dark, you gain maximum hitpoints if you go to bed before dark and you choose a time to awake that is in the morning daylight. After you awake, you should either try to go buy a Dagger or Stiletto again if you did not get one, or go back to the Tavern and continue drinking free Water and stocking up on Food Packets and Water Flasks while fighting the beings that you encounter while waiting outside the Tavern door. If you get a surplus of money or Gems or Jewelry, vist the bank, Grams Gold Exchange 2E, 61N, which is close by in the NW corner and make a deposit so that you have a reserve of cash. Original Alternate Reality Homepage FAQ: http://www.eobet.com...reality_FAQ.txt How to Survive - Alternate Reality: The City Make a complete map of The City and list of potions first. Also note what stats each guild on the map raises. You will appreciate and cherish your own handmade map for many years to come, but if you don't enjoy mapping or do not have the time, then print one off from sites such as eobet's The Original Alternate Reality Homepage: http://www.eobet.com...ernate-reality/ or here: http://web.archive.o...s/AltrReal.html When rolling your stats, focus on STA, WIS and SKL. These three often-overlooked skills do not rise from potions or in-game use. They also happen to be very important for initial survival. SKL determines how easily you can escape an encounter without being stolen from and also how well you dodge blows. If you have a high SKL and average STR, you will be able to punch muggers to death with your Bare Hands, even 1 point at a time without them hitting you! WIS helps you determine what type of potion you have found - a single potion can change the outcome of your game! When you are a poor, weak character, it is very important to know what you are drinking! The right potion could be great, but the wrong one will surely kill you! WIS also helps you determine if a weapon is cursed or not. A Cursed weapon can also result in a bad start for a new character. STA is very important because it determines how many Hit Points you gain when going up a level. Even if you start with low hit points as a result of focusing on STA WIS and SKL, you can gain an additional 20+ Hit Points if your STA is near 20, just from gaining 300 experience, which is quite easy. On this basis, Hit Points are actually the least important in the long run because they can go up so quickly, unfortunately many people focus on them when rolling their characters. STA also affects your resistance to hardships and is likely to affect disease, hunger, thirst and tiredness - I am still confirming this. The best you can possibly roll in these three important skills is a total of 63, three 21s, but I have never seen it. Any combination above 50 is really good. You can pretty much ignore the other skills when rolling, they will go up with use and also gain much easier when leveling. Play a Good Alignment to begin with! You can always switch later. Never Attack, Trick or Charm Good beings. Only use Trick or Charm on Evil beings. Never Attack Neutral beings first. Neutral beings, such as Fighters and Thieves, have the same intro music as Evil creatures so be careful. Always wait for Neutral beings to take the first swing. Dragons are Neutral also! When you Surprise Neutral beings make sure to Hail them. They will then begin to leave you alone. This is especially important for encounters with the more skilled and powerful Thieves, Knights and Dragons. If you have a good alignment they will normally let you go and most of the time will leave if they surprise you! Otherwise, they will try to steal your vital food, water and coppers and you will find it very hard to survive. If you are Evil, then Guards will constantly be after you also. Basically, by being Good, you cut your enemies in half and avoid being hunted by Guards and stolen from by Neutrals. This is very important for the survival of a new character. If you have 110 coppers or more, the very first thing you should do within the game is head straight to Occums Weaponsmiths and barter for a Dagger or Stiletto. If he does not have one, go to Sharp Weaponsmiths. Depending upon your CHR they will usually be offered for between 150 to 220 coppers. Start by offering about 80 coppers. The Smithy will then cut his price by about 70%! Then meet him a little bit less than halfway of his counter offers. If you barter well, even with low CHR, you can get a Stiletto or Dagger for 110-120 coppers! Remember to ready it as soon as you leave the Smithy. Practice this with Temporary characters until you are good at it. It takes some skill and knowledge to do it well without being kicked out. The very next stop should be the Assassin's Guild. A new character starts out with a Surprise modifier of 00. This stat raises slowly per level just like any other stat, but the Assassins Guild will give you +30 to the stat! Yes, that is +30, not +3! This will make a huge difference in your encounters. Also near the Assassins guild is the Sleeping Dragon Inn, the cheapest Inn in town. One of the cheaper taverns, the Flaming Dragon Tavern, is also right across from the Inn. There is no better place to restore your Hit Points if you are low and do not have enough coppers for the Healer. Always consider the healer first though; because sleeping will use up precious Food Packets which cost a minimum of 16 coppers each as Pemmican at The Tavern. Another option is to navigate your way to the Physicians Guild and Star Wizards Guild which will both give you some more Hit Points. These 8 Hit Points from the Guilds may be enough to survive, allowing you to kill that next aggressive mugger in order to gain even more Hit Points from gaining a level. If you have decent Hit Points, your very next stop should be The Tavern in the City Wall. Your next most important strategy for survival is to spend every copper you can on getting Pemmican/Food Packets. Always save 7 coppers to use for sleeping in the Warriors Retreat Inn close by on the East side of The Arena. Do not buy Water Flasks! They are a waste of your precious coppers. You can get as much water as you want for free at The Tavern. Even being Very Thirsty will not begin to affect you - you actually have to be Parched for a couple of game hours before your stats start dropping. Sit outside The Tavern and every hour the menu will change, hopefully offering Food Packets or even better, Pemmican. Buy as many as you can. You can use a stopwatch 2:50 for NTSC and 3:50 for PAL is a new AR hour; you can also tell by the lower white text portion of the screen flashing once, but you have to pay attention or you will miss it. I use the stopwatch on my watch and just let it run, i.e. 2:50 is the first hour change, 5:40 is the next hour change and so on. Every time you go in The Tavern, get free water. Your thirst does not display "Thirsty" until reaching a level of 04 and each water will reduce thirst by 4. You never know when it might not be available. Never waste any coppers on any food either unless you have not found any Pemmican/Food Packets and are "Famished" AND losing more than a couple of each stat. If this is the case, then try to buy Bowls of Chili, which reduce hunger level by 4 and only costs 8 or Sandwiches, which reduce hunger by 3 and cost about the same. Most other food is much more expensive or only reduces your hunger level by 1. While you are waiting outside The Tavern trying to collect coppers and supply yourself with Food Packets, try killing muggers and fighters that attack first, imps, gremlins, skeletons, zombies, orcs, gnolls and goblins. These are fairly easy to kill. Always try Tricking or Charming Evil creatures first as you may get lucky. When you become "Tired" AND begin losing stats, head as quickly as you can to the Inn and use the 7 coppers you were saving to sleep on the Common Area floor for 12 hours. Only sleep if it is dark or close to being dark. You will recover much faster if you are sleeping at night and awake in the morning or daylight. The optimum sleep time is from about 1800, when it turns dark, to 0600, when it turns light. If you sleep at that time, you will fully recover just from sleeping in the Common Area floor for 12 hours, even if you are Tired and have lost all your stats and almost all your hit points! A good strategy is to wait safely inside the Inn until about 1800. You will be safe inside the Inn no matter how Tired you are. Check the hour in the Inn and when it becomes dark, then sleep. Otherwise, you will be wasting your Coppers and your Food Packets sleeping and not recovering anything. Do not attack Giant Rats! Avoid them at all costs. They are easy to kill, but you will be setting yourself up for disaster as they almost always infect you with Rabies! Remember, in the long run, Rabies will cost you at least 200 coppers to cure unless you get lucky and find a Cleanse potion and it may also cost you your stats or life. You will very rarely get more than 200 coppers off a Giant Rat, so fighting them is not worth it. In fact, they rarely have any treasure at all. Do not fight Giant Rats! Also, still in testing, but it seems that you consume water and food faster, get tired more easily and do not gain stats as well when infected with Rabies or any diseases. As soon as you have a good supply of Food Packets, you can begin making your way to the guilds and raising your stats. Try to raise stats in the most balanced manner that you can. This is because often, the highest stats do not raise when you go up a level. So, if your STA, WIS and SKL are your highest stats, as suggested to begin with, DO NOT go to guilds that will raise these stats higher. Save these Guilds for later, otherwise it will be a waste. Visit these guild when you have gained a STR, CHR and INT that are higher; it will inevitably happen, as STR CHR and INT go up between levels with use. If you want to gain some STR, Parry Trolls. For every 255 hits, you will gain one point of STR. You can usually gain 2 to 3 points of STR off each Troll before losing stats to Tiredness. By Parrying, if you have a high skill, it will be very difficult for the Troll to hit you and you will not damage him enough to kill him. If you are doing more than 2-3 points of damage per hit, try using your Bare Hands or a worn out Stiletto to Parry the Troll. As long as you are not losing stats to Tiredness, Hunger or Thirst, you can sit there and ramp up your STR. STR determines the amount of damage you do, so eventually you will begin doing more damage than the Troll can Regenerate, but it's a good tactic for mid-level characters. Once you have a good supply of food and water and can survive well, head to the SE corner of town. Sleep in the Inn there during day, and fight the monsters at night. There is a good chance of running into easy monsters there that have a high percentage of treasure, such as Trolls, Imps, Gremlins and Goblins. Always get your Gems and Jewelry appraised at all three banks. Many times, one will appraise double that of the other two. It will take you some time, but the difference between a Completely Worthless gem and one that is worth 4 gold could be as big as the difference between life and death.
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