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Found 537 results

  1. From the album: My Collection

    Unfortunately I don't have the Sears manual, and I'm in no hurry to get one.
  2. I just need to know what the c57 and c56 is I know that my zener diode is shot but so isnt those other two pieces and I can't seem to find out what they are and I need then to get my Atari back up and running it's the white brown white thing
  3. Hi, I've made the decision to thin out my console collection and move over to emulation. US buyers only. Here is what's up for sale first (shipping from 27707 is included): I have one working 800XL computer ($120) and a 130XE ($130). I have one modern PSU and one NOS original one, along with 2 sets of AV cables. Next is my boxed AV Famicom. Comes with a new PSU, original AV cable, and a Japanese (short wire) dogbone controller. Asking $120.
  4. Anyone else going out to Classic Game Fest 2019 in Austin next week (July 27 & 28)? https://classicgamefest.com/ Rob and I will be there. In fact, we are going to have a booth this year as an indy game developer. We aren't selling anything, just showing our existing homebrew games to let people play them on real Atari 8-bit computer hardware and proper CRT monitors. We'll be demo'ing a few sneak peeks of things we've been working on too. Pretty cool stuff I think. And of course, more than anything else we'll be spreading the word about the amazingly active Atari 8-bit computer community and sharing info like how/where to get emulators, ROMs, classic games, new homebrews, and where to chat with others interested in this great hobby (like AtariAge.com of course !). Anyway, if you come out to Classic Game Fest next weekend, be sure to look for us... bitgod - "back in the good old days" -Eric
  5. I always wanted to ask: why were there such great games (original and ports) for Commodore 64 that never made it to Atari XL/XE series? Was the reason only hardware issues? What are the key factors that determined this situation? Forgive my ignorance, - Y -
  6. Cafeman

    AdvII XE testing

    I'm putting the final touches on this long delayed project., so here is the first summer '19 status report. I tested on my real XEGS hardware to ensure no game-ruining bugs! Didn't find any! Although that ranking seems too high based on how many times I got devoured and how many minutes I took to beat it ... I take notes of which variation I play , the end stats, and the ranking given. I'll review them after a few weeks and see if I need to tweak the rankings logic. It's not a big deal, but you don't want to see the same ranking all the time regardless of how well your game went, right? I made the game a bit more joystick-driven than it had been. You can pick all the options on the Title Screen using the joystick and button now, and when you are eaten, you can revive by pressing the Joystick button. Previously I had mapped the "R" key to the revive/respawn function, but I was tired of getting up from my reclining sofa and using the clunky XEGS clip-on keyboard all the time! So now I can sit back and play Adventure II XE for hours and not need to get up. To Pause ore reset completely, you still gotta use the keyboard or console buttons though. That is one huge advantage of 5200 gaming, you have all the needed commands at your fingertips using the CX52 controller. I also experimented with some color changes. Some have complained that the Gold Key and the Green Key are hard to distinguish from one another. This is true, depending on what color is the background image that each key is sitting overtop. Plus, the keys are tiny so color bleed on the overall image is worse than with the bigger images like the Chalice. But my eyes can still distinguish the difference. I tried different hues and luminosity settings but I was reminded once again WHY I chose those colors in the original 5200 version -- the items need to be bright and a different hue from the many background graphics across 4 kingdoms. Changing colors started to bring back the old "blending-in" issue . But I did decide to tweak some background screen colors. I tested my new colors and they looked great on a real TV; now I have to change them for the proper screens in-code and recompile everything. Some of these include files, like the ADV2COLR.TXT one with the screen colors, I haven't changed since about 2006! The thing is, these are compressed into INCLUDE files which are decompressed into RAM at boot-up. I forgot the compression steps completely, had to search out old notes to re-learn it. Thanks for reading, c(_)
  7. As reported by Polygon, Tastemakers is releasing a new Arcade1Up series of 4 foot tall home arcade machines for just $399 each. Set to come out this fall, the only catch is that these 3/4 scale arcade machines have to be self assembled, although Tastemakers is promising that the process is a simple one. The Centipede headline cabinet also comes with Breakout, Millipede, and Missile Command, and features a trackball, which is good for everything but Breakout, which really needs a spinner. The Asteroids Deluxe headline cabinet also comes with Asteroids, Major Havoc, and Tempest, and features the classic Asteroids-style button configuration, as well as a spinner, which is needed for both Tempest and Major Havoc. The Capcom machine appears to just have Street Fighter 2. All of these cabinets feature a 17" LCD screen. While that rules out a true vector display for the Asteroids Deluxe machine, I have to say that that one is the most appealing to me because of the more authentic controls. Of course, the Centipede machine does have a certain appeal, even if I can't see myself enjoying Breakout with a trackball. Hopefully the Tastemakers custom emulator is up to snuff and the build quality is reasonable considering the amazingly low price.
  8. I have a light sixer and it won't turn on. The voltage regulator got fried. I'm just curious how to fix this on the pcb. It got burnt after I used a crappy soldering iron trying to attach an led. Yes, if there is any way to remedy this let me know. The screen flashes as soon as I put power to the wall after that nothing. It's been a learning experience folks.
  9. Get'em while their hot! Thanks for looking OSS Action! Manual (only) https://www.ebay.com/itm/401816408330 OSS BASIC XL Manual and Working Cartridge (missing the cart cover) https://www.ebay.com/itm/401816414111 DISKEY Manual with Original, Working Disk https://www.ebay.com/itm/401816363196 Manuals (only) for The Basic Compiler and DATASM/65 https://www.ebay.com/itm/401816420776
  10. These plug and play consoles have all been tested and cleaned and work. They all have battery covers and clean battery compartments (no batteries included). I would like to get $3 each plus actual shipping costs. Please add $1 per transaction for paypal fees, or disregard if you use the friends/family option. I prefer to sell several at a time, but I am willing to sell just one if I don't get any bulk interest. There is one Atari joystick and one Namco plug/play in the center of the first image that are $1 each with purchase. Both work, but the atari one is missing the battery cover and has a crack around the joystick ring, and the namco joystick makes lots of clicking/clunky noises. The activision plug/play in the package has been opened and used. The packaging is large, so I can discard to save on shipping. It does include the manual. That weird blue Lexibook one is a bootleg system with motorcycle games including a generic road rash. It's really odd. Contact me for shipping costs, it will ship from zipcode 45005 USPS.
  11. Hello everyone I'm in the process of building a VCS based hardware clone from scratch and have a few queries; I am going to replace the 6507 with 6502 (to get full 64k addressing + hardware interrupts + phi 1 and phi2 clocks ) and adding 32k of extra ram like the super Atari project (site is down but thanks for the wayback machine http://bit.ly/2FHlAH7) But these "NEW" eBay 6502 cpus (http://ebay.to/2DzjYJC) should work, or are these new chips like 65c02 in that the silicon has been altered due to "modern manufacture reasons"? And what's the highest clock speed available on a 6502? Also can you place some asynchronous buffer sram [cy7c408 = 128byte sram fifo memory] (http://bit.ly/2HGAAlm) between the data lines on the tia and 6502/7, so that the when the TIA Is drawing the data is already in the buffer, and all the cpu needs to do is correctly send the corrects address locations relevant to data stored in the buffer? (i.e instead of cpu calculating the display every scan-line you simply write a few scan-lines of image data into the buffer before The TIA begins to draw, then just correctly address in the order of whats stored in the buffer and do program logic) Since the [cy7c408a] is dual ported with asynchronous R/W, means you can just clock the output data [DO0-DO7] bus with the 1.19MHz clock from the TIA, iirc the TIA doesn't tend to like bus speeds higher than 1.19MHz? Then this should allow one to overclock the 6502 with for simplicity of counting cycles a multiple of the [ntsc] color-burst [TIA] clock ( i.e being able to have 684 cpu cycles per scan-line {using a 6502 clocked @ 10.75MHz = ~3x the TIA clock } instead of just 76 cycles) in such cases also sacrificing [native 2600] compatibility for increased cpu speed and more time for crunching instructions. I would also assume having the TIA reading the buffer @ 1.19Mhz would present in situations a bottleneck as well (when "drawing" to the TIA)? Since you can write data faster to the buffer than its being read (if the CPU is overclocked)? Since it seems the cy7c408 operates similar to a giant shift register, once its written you have to wait until data to reach to the TIA before it you write new data?? Can you just fill the buffer with 128 bytes of scan-line/sound data for the TIA, then handle the TIA addressing, and just fill the buffer as its being emptied, and essentially have 128 bytes of "VRam" (well more like Video buffer)? Also Can NMI be used instead of RDY, so that when the tia begins a new frame, wsync simply have the TIA tell the 6502 to "Stop, Pause , Go and do Display routine and then come back here", instead of just halting the cpu? Aswell i have a few microchip and avr (atmega8515) mcu's laying around wanting to be used for something and with a both MCU's, it's instructions are pipelined so that it takes effectively 1 cycle to load and execute data or decode and execute an instruction, except iirc when changing the program counter which iirc takes 2 - 3 cycles, So you don't have wait states [i.e iirc if using a z80, thats takes 3+ cycles for most of its instructions which is why they have such high clocks]. Is it possible to use the atmega or 18f4550 as sort of display controller for the TIA having the MCU handle reads from the buffer instead, and handle writing the data to the TIA, and use the atmega8515 to emulate the RIOT? Is it possible to emulate the Riot but with 256 bytes of ram? iirc RIOT ram is in page 0 so is faster to access than the 32k of extra ram? Plus is it possible, using A12 and A15 with a 74hc138 and a logic gate or two as a way to partially decode address to swap between cartridge space and 32k ram, so one can simply keep some compatibility, simply if A12 is high and A15 low then cartridge ROM is accessed, and if A15 is high in any case 32k Ram is Accessed? just building it to just play 2600 games isn't really hard (it was done from 1977 to 1992 literally millions of times), and seems a little redundant to me, I just figured since you can build your own 2600 compatible hardware clone for less than $50 in parts shipped, why not beef it up for some shits and giggles like a dev kit, have 256k of rom space and 32k ram, 6502, if possible using an MCU or 2 as an "In Hardware display Kernel", as well as emulate the riot, And CO10444D. why you ask? Because i i'll have the only atari "super" VCS with full USB 2.0 support (upto 12Mbit/s if I do use the 18f4550 lol) and plus i can really push the hardware to the limit see what it can do with some actual "power" behind it
  12. I've decided to try to collect all atari pong systems before the new decade but I don't have a good idea on the prices of each system. So if anyone can give me a price guide (and some tips) that would be awesome. Thanks in advance.
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