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Found 24 results

  1. Hi everyone, I'm new here but I am a long time Atari collector and have always wanted to join this forum. anyways, I have an issue on my hands in the form of a beat up 4-port 5200 I just picked up. I got this thing for 5$, it came with the controllers and console, that's it. I don't have any more 5200s so I had to buy a switch box and a power supply. I just got all that in today and tested it, and I'm getting nothing, no sound, and no video. I already measured the supply and it looks good and the switch box seems to be outputting the correct voltage and has a reassuring spark. I heard something about different 5200s using different power supplies, I bought one that says 9.3 VDC (I hope that's ok.) I just don't know what to test next or where to go, the red led doesn't even light up when I turn it on. the switch is really gummy but I don't know which points to jump to bypass it. please help with my 5200, thanks!
  2. so my Atari 2600 4 switch woody's left joysick up stopped working I tried multiple joysticks and the up direction doesn't work anymore. I have the pictures of the board what should I do? Now that I have the board out what would you do? I can solder but I don't know where to start. Also should I clean the board and how should I clean it up?
  3. Definitely my bad this time. Ugh. Here's a great example why it's not a good idea to do hardware changes when you're in a rush. You know, by lifting the cage that houses the power supply and bays without first disconnecting the ribbon cable from the motherboard. In the process I accidentally broke one of the pins off of the floppy drive connector on an Amiga 2000 motherboard. The pin is securely stuck in the end of the ribbon cable's connector. Any advice on the best way to fix/replace the motherboard's connector? I'm guessing that the cable itself is kaput, since I don't see how I can get the actual pin out of it. Another question: It's been awhile, but I was pretty sure that PC and Amiga disk drive ribbon cables were the same. Is that correct? Thanks!
  4. Recently my trusty switch switch quit working. It had occurred after moving the difficulty switch from A to B (in space invaders) and an odd screen appeared. Afterwards I turned off the Atari, re-turned on and all that appears is a black screen with two slightly colored thin bars on both sides. I checked the power supply with another Atari and it seems to be working, the cartridge is not an issue of course, and after looking around online I would assume that it is the power/voltage regulator? Any advice would be appreciated- it truly saddens me when such events occur, a light six switch simply isn't a heavy one
  5. I have two Atari 2600s. One with a wood panel, and one without. The one with the wood panel works beautifully with my 80's CRT TV, and the black paneled one doesn't work at all with the same setup. I busted it open to take a look at the board. When plugging it in, I saw a little spark which suggested to me that power is indeed going in correctly. I took a multimeter and measured around a bit. 15 V going in. Everything seemed to stop at the on switch. No matter how much I switched on or off, the voltage went from 15 V to 0 V right across that switch. Is it unusual for an Atari switch to not work? There's also some corrosion around the board which I am going to clean off with isopropyl alcohol. Does anyone have any next steps for me to try? I would love to get this working! Some photos are attached.
  6. The package for Mega Man Legacy Collection 1+2 has broken DLC right out of the box.
  7. Hello guys! This is my first post and English is not my first language, so please forgive any mistakes. So a few days ago I found this little guy in a storage room filled with broken pcbs and other junk and i decided to try and fix it. First i noticed that the top part of the power switch was missing so i closed the circuit by putting jumpers on the switch, then plugged in a 9v adapter and tried hooking it up to a CRT to see if it was working...nothing came up so the first thing i checked was the 7805 regulator which was dead. I replaced the 7805 and i made a rough RF to AV mod (just video. no sound) from a schematic i found online. I plugged it in (AV) and this time it worked perfectly, even when i connected it through RF, it had a bunch of built in games on it, it was great! But sadly after 10 minutes or so, the picture went crazy all of a sudden with flashing colors of all kinds of patterns (see attached photos). Also when i plug it to the RF connector the picture is blue-ish with static and there is a high piched sound in the background. I really hope i didn't fry it or something, because i wanted to make a case for it and give it to my brother as a birthday present... Any ideas what's wrong with it, or how to troubleshoot it? I'm not really good on electronics but i know a thing or two... I also attached the AV mod i i did (not my photo). Thanks in advance!
  8. Hey guys. I've seen a lot of good help on this forum that I've used to help me diagnose my Atari 2600 4-switch that has not worked ever since I tried to install a widely used composite mod. (Kit Link Here) I installed it using an instructable (Instructable Link Here) I followed all instructions including removing q202, r209, r222, and c205, aaaaand... nothing it didn't work. (note: when I say nothing, I mean the TV says no signal.) I suspected bad connections but that wasn't it. I tried re-soldering the old components and that did something for a while but then it stopped. Next I thought that it wasn't getting enough power so I checked the power supply and 5v reg. Both were just fine except the 5v Reg had 2 of it's pins crossed. After uncrossing them I got some video for about two seconds and then it quit. (see attached video) I thought it was the chips now so I replaced all 3 (TIA, RIOT, and CPU) and this put me back to the same old no signal screen. I tried the old chips on a working system (w/o composite mod) and they gave a black screen. Not sure what to do at this point. Nothing is abnormally hot. Maybe my somewhat noob soldering skills maybe be a problem Cheers, kalgran Glitching.mp4
  9. What do you do with broken stuff? I get most consoles repaired these days, but I have a few controllers I really like (a six button w/turbo genesis controller, multiple 2600 controller, and a translucent green N64 controller) that I just can't figure out what to do with. I also have an extra Apple G3 laptop that I should sell for parts or repair. As I see it we have a few options with any given item. -Hoard until parts become available and you can fix item -Fix item -Sell for parts -Toss I'm torn. I hate throwing away something thinking it could be fixed, but also don't like having broken crap taking up space in my collection. What do you do for various items?
  10. Hi All, I'm hoping for some help as I'm stuck. So I got a Vectrex that came to me dead (does not power on). After short diagnostic it turns out that main transformer was dead and i have replaced it with AC 9v-0-9v 1A (it is smaller than original in size). To my joy, Vectrex came back to live and game was on. After about 5 minutes vectors got scrambled and screen went off (screaming Nooooo internally). Console still turns on and still plays controls & sound are working. I have not left console on for more than 5 min continuously and i have not seen any white dot appearing. I have started googling to check what's wrong. Going with Troubleshooting Guide and this blog http://int03.co.uk/blog/2016/01/31/vectrex-repair-black-screen-no-vector/,I have checked -13V on power board but that is not the case. That power circuit is just fine. Going forward on J204 i got -4.96V, GND, 5.02V, -12.99V so that's within range. Power input to power board on EP106 and EP104 is 10VAC which i thought is too high but on this forum http://vectorgaming.proboards.com/thread/1021/tech-repairing-vectrex-monitor, jasonbar have original transformer with higher than 8.6VAC, again i think that's OK. Last thing in torubleshooting guide is to check T401 and T503. Not sure which those actually are. I think those are hidden in the small metal box on the power board, does anybody had problem with those ? how to check them. Also i should check for voltage on CRT PCB pins 2,3,5 and 6 (socket for the lamp?). Is CRT PCB one that is attached to the tube ? If so should i use ground on power board for test ? Can i disconnect that board from tube for test measurements ? Lastly i know that somebody will tell me to do re-cap on power board but again, caps are Jamicon ones and those i have checked are in great condition. Visually non of them show any sings of leak or bloating on top. I would expect at least white dot on screen if some caps are bad. I did not removed caps form the board for check but most of them can be checked in board and readings are good. Non where below the stated value but slightly above. Those who are chained obviously is hard to check without taking them out but general trend is that caps are fine in my opinion. If i have to i will replace them but would prefer to understand the fault and not just blindly replace all caps. Help will be highly appreciated. I'm a hobbyist and keen to get this working. Thanks.
  11. Hi @ all, i'm new to atari 28 years old and my first console was a SEGA Master System 2. Atari 2600 was a few years before my time;) but i wanted to give it a try and have some retro fun. So i bought a big package containing a woodgrain light sixer, a Junior, 8 controllers and 35 games. So far so good... I connected the antenna cable of the Junior to my television (modern LG Flatscreen) and it worked perfectly. Colors and sound were all right. But the light sixer seems to have some problems. As far as i know they both use RF and both should output the same picture to my tv. But the light sixer just gives a bad picture with totally wrong colors (always the same way wrong.... see Pictures) or just Grey (and even that very poor). I tríed it on different channels (switch A-B on the console and different settings on the tv) and i even tried it on an old TV (also see pictures) Had anyone this problems too? Is something broken? What could it be? Can it be repaierd? I planned to do a AV Mod. I already ordered this kit (still waiting for it) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Atari-2600-7800-A-V-Composite-Video-Mod-Kit-NTSC-PAL-DIY-/171149875461?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d953d905 Could this mod help with the picture even if it's that bad rigjt now? I'm unsure what to do because the light sixer should already output the same Picture as the Junior... and if i do this mod and it's still the same the broken light sixer is even less worth and i put the work into it for nothing Any idears? EDIT: i only got one PSU with both consoles... no idear if it could make a difference... it's one like this http://www.konsolenkost.de/images/produkte/i90/9030262.jpg http://www.konsolenkost.de/images/produkte/i90/9030262-1.jpg EDIT: as far as i know my light sixer should be PAL. At least the seller told me that. Sadly there's no sicker on the back... how can i find out if the light sixer is PAL or NTSC? Any internal part that Shows this clear? If the console is NTSC i contact the seller and want my Money back.
  12. HI, I have owned my Veccy now for about 13 years, bringing it to Ireland from The Isle of Man via titchy airplane in a dodgy field in Ulster somewhere... long story..... Anyways, a couple of months ago I plugged it in and the buttons on the controller refused to respond to anything. The stick still works just fine but none of the buttons seem to work at all. The Veccy suffered no bumps, trips or falls, it has sat in the same spot for some time, the controller buttons simply ceased to respond one day, despite having worked the previous time it was turned on. So, Big Question. Before I open the controller up, Has anyone else had this problem? I was thinking it might be something simple, seeing as all the buttons are not responding, like the ground wire being broken in some regard. But the stick still responds..... Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!
  13. Hello guys and gals, I just bought a broken vectrex on ebay for cheap and the first thing I noticed when I turned it one was that the graphics are collapsed into a neat horizontal line. You can see the little lights move when the game starts up so it is reacting to the game, which I think is good. the controllers work and the sound is excellent. I removed the back (carefully of course) and noticed that the 353ic gets really hot when the vectrex is on, could it be that the chip itself is fried? or is something happening elsewhere that is causing that chip to overheat? I ordered that same chip on ebay because it is probably bad, but how should I check for problems elsewhere? I'll have an update video if the chip does in fact fix anything but until then here is a short one I just took. any information is appreciated, let's get it fixed! http://youtu.be/1hGm4IlEn8A
  14. Edit: Nevermind. The problem was with the = 1 that somehow got after the joy0fire statement on the second-last line. How did it get there? I don't know. Does anyone have any idea where I messed up? This program used to compile and run, but ever since I tried to make the reset switch work it stopped compiling, even after I removed the offending code... The alleged syntax error is in a different place every time I try to compile the program. Usually it's either at the start of the first line, or the end of the last line. Here is the code attached: predator.bas Here it is in code tags: rem batari Basic Program rem created 8/06/2014 1:59:51 PM by Visual bB Version 1.0.0.554 set kernel_options pfcolors no_blank_lines set romsize 8kSC pfcolors: $AE $AC $AA $A8 $A6 $A4 $A2 $A0 $2A $28 $24 end playfield: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXX............XXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXX............XXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXX............XXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX end AtariLogo player0: %00100001 %01010010 %10001010 %10001010 %10001001 %00000000 %11100001 %00010001 %00001001 %00001001 %00000101 %00000101 %00000101 %00000101 %00000101 %00000101 end player1: %11000110 %00000001 %00000110 %00001000 %11000110 %00000000 %00001110 %00010000 %00100000 %00100000 %01000000 %01000000 %01000000 %01000000 %01000000 %01000000 end COLUBK = $00 var0 = 0 var1 = 0 var3 = 0 draw_loop if var3 = 1 then gosub changesprites1 if var3 = 3 then gosub changesprites2 if var0 = 0 then gosub logos if var0 = 1 then gosub titlehold drawscreen goto draw_loop logos if var1 < 12 then var2 = var1 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 12 then AUDV0 = 4 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 12 then AUDC0 = 4 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 12 then AUDF0 = 7 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 12 then AUDV1 = 4 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 12 then AUDC1 = 2 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 12 then AUDF1 = 5 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 14 then AUDV0 = 0 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 14 then AUDC0 = 0 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 14 then AUDF0 = 0 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 14 then AUDV1 = 0 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 14 then AUDC1 = 0 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 14 then AUDF1 = 0 if var1 = 87 then if var3 = 4 then var2 = 0 if var1 = 87 then if var3 = 4 then var0 = 1 if var1 = 87 then if var3 = 4 then return if var1 = 87 then var2 = 11 if var1 = 88 then var2 = 10 if var1 = 89 then var2 = 9 if var1 = 90 then var2 = 8 if var1 = 91 then var2 = 7 if var1 = 92 then var2 = 6 if var1 = 93 then var2 = 5 if var1 = 94 then var2 = 4 if var1 = 95 then var2 = 3 if var1 = 96 then var2 = 2 if var1 = 97 then var2 = 1 if var1 = 98 then var2 = 0 if var1 = 99 then var3 = var3 + 1 if var1 = 99 then var1 = 0 if var1 = 99 then var2 = 0 player0x = 75 player0y = 35 player1x = 83 player1y = 35 COLUP0 = var2 COLUP1 = var2 var1 = var1 + 1 return changesprites1 player0: %11101110 %10001010 %11101110 %00101000 %11100110 %00000000 %11100111 %10010101 %10010101 %11100000 %00000000 %01001010 %01001010 %01001110 %01001000 %11101000 end player1: %01100100 %10101010 %10101010 %10101010 %01100100 %00000011 %01110100 %01010111 %01110101 %00010010 %00000000 %11010100 %10100100 %11101110 %00000100 %00000000 end var3 = 2 return changesprites2 player0: %10001000 %10001000 %10001110 %11100000 %10100000 %11100000 %00000000 %11111011 %10101010 %10101011 %10101000 %00000000 %11101010 %10101010 %10101110 %10100000 end player1: %01100111 %10000101 %11100111 %10010001 %01100001 %00000000 %00000000 %10100100 %10100100 %01110111 %00100000 %00000000 %11101000 %10101000 %11101110 %00100000 end var3 = 4 return titlehold player0x = 75 player0y = 35 player1x = 83 player1y = 35 COLUP0 = $0A COLUP1 = $0A if joy0fire = 1 then var0 = 2 return Thanks
  15. I'm looking for a good intact color screen to replace my broken one. Will buy or trade for.
  16. Hello all, I work at a Disc Replay, I see games come in all the time, but these two games are causing me trouble. I have: Cleaned the pins with alcohol I have not: Tested with multi-meter Re-soldered chips Bought a donor cart for a possible switch? Cleaned with contact cleaner Knights of the Round and SMW + SMAS: http://i.imgur.com/l8b8pmW.jpg http://i.imgur.com/WcX2fKG.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hTulJc7.jpg http://i.imgur.com/tTu0rHr.jpg Do you see something that I don't on these carts? Should I put more time and effort into getting these to work? Thanks.
  17. Hi All, So I pulled out my Atari 5200 to test a controller my friend found at a thrift store. The good news is the controller works, the bad news is my system doesn't anymore. I was playing for about an hour before all of a sudden it decided to stop working. When I turn the system on, I get a solid black screen. Before this happened, I was getting some strange video irregularities. The screen for the most part would be okay but it would go into to flashing fits and then level out again. It seems like it got worse the longer a game was played. I thought maybe it was a dirty system/game or the video cable was going bad. Cable checked out okay. I cleaned the games and it made no difference. I found a repair manual online from Atari for the 5200 that had a troubleshooting section for a solid black screen. I took my system apart and pulled out my multimeter. I was unable to check the frequencies of the chips because I believe I need an oscilloscope for that. Checking the voltages where the manual said to, it looks like the voltages were all good except for A26, the 4013 Power ON/OFF latch. Across pin 8 and 16 I was reading around 14v where it should have been 5v. VR1 & VR2 were both showing 5v on their output pin so I'm not sure where this extra voltage could be leaking from. I did notice one larger resistor by the AV box closest to the end of the board was VERY hot. (By Q6, Q7. They're blue with gold, black, red, green brown rings on it) My system is a two port model, so it does not have the power integrated AV box like the 4 port model. Any ideas where to go from here? Thanks!
  18. Hi; Today I received a shipment of imagic carts for my 7800 and found that none of them would fit well enough to run. I researched a bit on the forums to find a solution. The given solution was i.e: Remove external housing Find "cart cup" clip corners with scissors I did this to one of the corners and tested before proceeding any further to limit any damage. It worked for most of the games, but one, cosmic ark. So, I clipped another corner of the "cup" and when I went to test it the console wouldn't turn on!!! As far as I can tell (have not removed shield) there is no pieces lose. I ordered a Atari jr. in the mean time so I could still play most of my library, but I would really like to be able to fix the console; It ran beautifully before I mutilated it (no sticky buttons, no game problems, etc.) My Question; Any suggestions to what may be the problem? Any similar experiences? Thanks, - Justin
  19. Hello all, I'd like to begin by saying that I am by no means a negligent/careless owner. I was never rough with my Jag. However, despite this, it stopped working a while back for reasons currently beyond me. The last few times I'd played it, it had serious controller issues; on Cybermorph, the T-Griffon wouldn't stop jetting forward and moving upward, while on Tempest 2K, I couldn't stop shooting. Not long after these incidents, my Jag failed entirely, and won't even power on. All I know is that these consoles are very sensitive to electrical mishaps (shorts, overloads, etc.), and that something to do with the controller inputs failed/shorted out, and this somehow eventually led to total failure. Yet if that is the case, wouldn't that mean that one of my controllers is defective and causes shorts? I've no soldering skills, and even less of a clue on how to find the replacement parts necessary for this system, so the chances of me fixing this are slim. For the meantime, I've purchased a new Jag system (I shouldn't have to explain how expensive they've become), so I want to ensure that this doesn't happen again. The main things I want to know are: *What caused this? *Is this (cheaply) fixable? *What can prevent this? Sorry about the long post, but as a long-time Atari fan, I just want to ensure the fun doesn't stop here. Please feel free to ask me anything you'd like to know.
  20. I recently bought one off of ebay, but I looked around online and heard there was a design flaw that ruins the belt and creates a kink. It's also loose and doesn't rewind or fast forward properly. I tested a hair tie in it, and while it would rewind, it wouldn't play anything. So I'm wondering what dimensions I need. I found a website that sells these kinds of belts, just need the size. I heard it was 8.6" square or something like that, just wanted to make sure.
  21. Hi there guys, so after talking to some of my friends about the problems with my 1040 STe, we wernt able to figure out whats wrong, so they suggested that I post on here and see if anybody can help me. Basically, almost every game I try to load either gives me a black screen after the main screen or it shows bombs or goes red and freezes. Ive only owned my owned my Atari 1040 STe for about 5 month and Ive only gotten some games for it in the last 2 weeks, so I dont have much of history with it. Here are a couple videos I uploaded to youtube that can probably show you better than I can describe. https://youtu.be/Nj1wB4KnbUg https://youtu.be/76pGk_AkMAI Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated, thanks!
  22. I have a 7800 that has the cartridge guide tabs broken off so the dust covers don't open on 2600 games. Years ago, I inserted some paper clip wires into the plastic while the metal was hot. I'd like to fix this machine decently. Anyone know of a good source for these?
  23. Hey all! I'm new here and this is my first post - please be gentle! I bought an Atari 2600 Jr. from a bootsale for £15 (~$25) including some games, with the promise that it worked. I got it home, plugged it in, and it did... sort of. The image was what I expected from an old Atari, but it had blurred lines rolling up and down the screen intermittantly. However, once I tried to turn it on and play a couple of days later, nothing... No image at all. I know the concole itself is working (as the red LED light is shining), but no image is being sent to the TV itself. I have bought a new lead to connect to my TV, but still the same result. It is also worth noting that my console has no switch to change between channels 2-3 (I opened it up, but there looks like there was never space for the switch anyway), and so I have tried manually tuning the console to the TV, with the above results. So far, I have tried the following: 1) New coax lead 2) Opening and removing dust 3) Different TVs 4) Different games 5) Manual tuning Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! (I am fairly new to Atari fixing, so baby-language would be appreciated!) Frenzii
  24. Hi everyone, I just made this account as a last ditched effort to revive my Vectrex. Long story short I bought it for $50 hoping it would be an easy fix, boy was I wrong. I've adjusted every pot inside the thing, seated all socketed chips and even replaced the 6522 and mc34004p chips. Still no progress. Even accidentally removed a few solder pads in the process, even worse, my sound sometimes just decides not to work for some random reason... So just keep this in mind. Anyways onto the actually problem. My vectors don't connect/align properly. For example on Mine Storm my ship is a jumbled bit of lines and the enemies are either the same or 2/3 of a triangle or whatever they're supposed to be, some are connected while others just 'float out of place. I knew about the issue when I bought it but to be honest I had no idea it would be this much trouble trying to fix it. Is there anyone who can shed some light on this cursed vectrex? (I can even take pics and shoot a video later today and upload it) Thanks.
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