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Found 11 results

  1. Well, I've done some more experimenting and have managed to find a way to attach wired PS3 and Xbox 360 controllers to the 5200 to play the games that offer digital controls (as opposed to the analog-only games like Missile Command). This required a number of video game controller adapters/cables and a USB power supply. Here's how it's done: The adapters needed to get the wired PS3 controllers compatible with the Atari 5200 are as follows: 1) a 15 pin PC Gameport controller to 15 pin Atari 5200 adapter. These are obtained by contacting Atariage member, bohoki. He makes these for under $20 (shipped within the U.S.). 2) An adapter that converts Atari/Amiga/Sega controllers with a 9 pin connector to a 15 pin PC gameport. These are available on Ebay from "Ikonsgr74" and can be obtained for under $20 (shipped anywhere in the world). 3) A Tototek Joypad Convertor version MD (for Playstation controller compatibility on the Megadrive/Sega Genesis). These adapters are under $30. 4) A Brook Game Controller Super Convertor for adapting a PS3/PS4 controller to a PS2 console. These can be had for under $40. 5) a USB splitter cable ($12 or less). 6) a powersupply with a USB cord (5Volts) OR a USB Hub with connected power supply. To get the Xbox 360 controllers compatible with the 5200, you'll need one additional adapter. It is the Mayflash Universal Adapter for Xbox360/PS3/PS2/PC USB. These may be found at Amazon. Current price for these on Amazon is $30, but that is subject to change. Mayflash adapters tend to become scarce and go up in price. If any of you have interest in a video presentation on this (as well as a quick explanation of how to fix a potentiometer controller problem) here's the link for that:
  2. Ok, I don't need any help or anything. I just wanted to post about a weird issue I ran into today. I had a Joystick that wasn't working, so I decided to do some troubleshooting. The first thing I noticed when I took it apart, was that the wires were a different color than I expected. I wrote down the colors and where they went, then disconnected them so I could do some testing. I first checked the PCB with my multimeter. It checked out fine. So, I started checking the cable. I was able to determine that pins 2,3,4 and 6 were fine. I couldn't get anything on pins 1 and 8. I looked the cable over and could see no issues at all. There were no crimps, kinks, cuts or other visible damage. I did everything I could think of to try and get a reading on the non-working pins. After about 20 minutes I gave up and decided to cut the cable and test the wires and the cable (plug) end. I cut it about 5 inches from the connector and tested it. Everything worked. I then tested the rest of the cable and still no readings on 1 and 8. I threw away the cable, but kept the end, just in case I could find a use for it later on. I know the wires are thin, but I never expected to find two that were broken, without some type of damage on the outside of the cable. It just seemed odd to me. Anyway, that's all I wanted to say.
  3. Hello all - Since jumping into this thing and doing little projects here and there, I have suffered some setbacks, and enjoyed a few surprising successes. But, this latest project I've embarked upon has given me quite a few ups and downs, with an emphasis on the down. I have a Wico Keypad that was only registering a few buttons. I swapped a cable and confirmed it's the cable. Despite urgings from the intelligence center of my brain, I had to jump into getting to the bottom of it and solving my problem {without consulting the pros here first, of course}. How hard could it be to get some new wires from keypad box to the tip of a new donor cable? Well, long story short, I failed. I've attached a photo. My question is: Does anyone have a simple explanation of where each of the 15 colored wires in that line within the keypad need to be when they reach the DB15 tip of the new cable? I'll gladly expand if anyone can join me in solving this dilemma {and even hope to be gratefully embarrassed if/when someone shows me one of those simple pinout diagrams like for converting O2 sticks to Atari, etc.} But, so far I'm not seeing it. NOW, I have seen that page that someone explains the matrix array set-up of these controllers, and with that and following the lines on the boards, and some great mental strain etc. I could see solving this puzzle some day.... AND, as you may be able to see from the picture, I've got all the wires tipped with male prongs, and a female to female gender changer adapter on it's way. It sure would be nice {and I would be more than quite grateful} if, when that gender changer adapter arrives, I could just plug those male prongs 1,2,3....15 right into their respective spots at the DB15 tip and begin to feel I've brought something good back into the world again. Thanks for reading, helping, etc. A final note {since you've stayed on this far}: Wico, in a cruel twist {and causing all my pain here} embedded their wires in some blackened amber encasement at the tip of the cable, making tracking the wires nearly impossible {I was able to track like 3 of them after a "careful" destruction of the tip}. Also, the damage was done, but it didn't help that they included 2 orange/white wires into the mix. Thanks again.
  4. I recently finished a project where I had to gut these from new aftermarket controllers.These function with the Nintendo entertainment system. These would serve as direct replacement in an old worn out NES controller and work great. I have about 19 of them. PM me if you want all or one of them.
  5. Hello all! Very, very new to the TI-99/4a. A college friend recently sold me one for $20. After picking up a TI Extended Basic cart, I found myself very interested in learning Basic as a hobby. So, I went on eBay and found a "mint condition new in box" black program recorder. If "new" means missing the manual, missing the cable, and came in a box that reeked of mildew. That's eBay for you. The tape deck itself seems fine, and I cleaned up the cable that leads to the computer. (Cable was definitely coated in mildew... ew... ) I also already had a manual, but there isn't much to it so wasn't worried about that. However this brings me to the topic at hand. C batteries will add up fast. I noticed there is an option for a DC adapter. Anyone know where I could find a compatible DC adapter? Or even an original AC adapter?
  6. Just curious what I could use or if I could get a replacement cord for an intellivision 1 and possibly if someone wants to help how to connect the cable? I haven't even opened it up yet to take a look. The system is out of the city at the moment but wouldn't mind some advice. Thanks.
  7. I have 2 - db9 male to db25 male, 850 to Hayes compatible modem cables. The pins are connected different on each. I'm thinking I know which one is wired correctly but need someone to help me feel confident about my decision. These are the pin connections 850 R1: Gray cable Black cable Pin# Pin# Pin# 1 20 6 2 8 8 3 2 2 4 3 3 5 7 7 6 6 20 7 4 4 8 5 5 The 6 and 20 pins on the modem side are reversed. Any thoughts?
  8. I know these cables are "easy" to make... but I'm not so skilled at that sort of stuff.... I've an 850 w/printer cable (no PS) up for trade?? Well... I bought a kit and made a splitter. Looks and works great.
  9. Hello all, I'd like to begin by saying that I am by no means a negligent/careless owner. I was never rough with my Jag. However, despite this, it stopped working a while back for reasons currently beyond me. The last few times I'd played it, it had serious controller issues; on Cybermorph, the T-Griffon wouldn't stop jetting forward and moving upward, while on Tempest 2K, I couldn't stop shooting. Not long after these incidents, my Jag failed entirely, and won't even power on. All I know is that these consoles are very sensitive to electrical mishaps (shorts, overloads, etc.), and that something to do with the controller inputs failed/shorted out, and this somehow eventually led to total failure. Yet if that is the case, wouldn't that mean that one of my controllers is defective and causes shorts? I've no soldering skills, and even less of a clue on how to find the replacement parts necessary for this system, so the chances of me fixing this are slim. For the meantime, I've purchased a new Jag system (I shouldn't have to explain how expensive they've become), so I want to ensure that this doesn't happen again. The main things I want to know are: *What caused this? *Is this (cheaply) fixable? *What can prevent this? Sorry about the long post, but as a long-time Atari fan, I just want to ensure the fun doesn't stop here. Please feel free to ask me anything you'd like to know.
  10. Hi all, I've recently ordered a 130XE from the US. I live in France but this kind of machine became recently hard to find. So it was easier and cheaper to buy it in the US. I'll soon receive it, but I have some question regarding the connection: - What kind of power cable do I need to plug it? Does something like that will do the job? http://www.amazon.fr/HQ-P-SUP-32-HQ-Convertisseur-tension-vers/dp/B000MRY5CU Also I'll need to plug to computer, but also the floppy drive, which comes from the same seller. - What's the best way to plug the 130XE on the TV screen? Can I use a Scart cable or a AV composite cable? Or is there a better way? Thanks. Can't wait to receive and play with it!
  11. So I bought an atari 2600 online and got it in the mail today. Hopefully the system itself works. But right now I am having trouble connecting it. My tv has 3 vhf screws(not really screws idk what to call them), one says ANT input, another converter output, and the last AUX Input. It also has 2 UHF screws below that. I have a TV/game/computer switch but it does not have prongs like most, it is only a copper wire sticking out of it. I also have the power cable. So what do I do exactly? =p
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