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Showing results for tags 'capacitor'.
Found 11 results
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So I recently picked up an Apple IIc and a green phospher Monitor II in reasonable condition while I was on a trip to Nashville. I'll spare the details of the restoration pratfalls i've blundered through, but suffice to say the Monitor II currently works. I know that RIFA capacitors are used for line conditioning and tend to let out the magic smoke after three decades. I need to figure out if these capacitors need to be replaced soon as I suspect, and if so, I was hoping someone could help point me in the direction of compatible replacements. The caps on the main board don't appear to have any leaks or bulges at the moment so I am not super worried about them just yet.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84EUgfw4gCk Interesting video (in italian) about a restoration and attempt to load cassette files into an ECS What's worth of notice, I reckon, is that he finds out that a capacitor in the Intellivision itself seemed soldered postive on negative FROM THE FACTORY, leading to weird malfunctioning... cheers -
Does anyone know the capacitor values for the Lynx II, C104129-001 Rev. 2 board? This board has 4 fewer electrolytic capacitors (C53, C58, C60, C64) than the other versions. Are the capacitor values the same as usual, except for the missing 4? Or are the values different? Thanks! -
Morning all, I pulled my old childhood GameGear from my crawl space a year ago and decided to do the cap replacement since it wasn't working properly. Well, here we are, after doing the main board and the soundboard - still no luck. NOTE: I have not done the power board yet - those caps are on the way. The first time I put batteries in it and powered it on, I saw random small colored rectangles on the screen for about 2 seconds, then it faded to white. Now all I get is a white screen with no sound. I am testing this with multiple games. Turning the volume knob is only met with crackling sounds from the speaker and the brightness knob works, but does not change the screen from anything other than white. I have double and triple checked my caps and their polarity. All solder joints are strong. All polarity is good. A user on another forum mentioned the bubbly ends on my backlight tube... but like I said, the brightness knob works, so I think my tube is fine. I have looked (with amateur's eyes) at the other components on the board and everything looks okay. Could this be because I have yet to do the power board caps? All my caps looked fine with no leakage, but I'm sure that doesn't mean they are still working fine. I am hoping that the power board is the culprit. But in the meantime, anything I should be looking at? [Ignore the red cap in this picture. I know it's bent over the grounding area, but I fixed this before I powered it on as you can't close the case with it like that anyway.]
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I just did the cap replacement on my sound board and main board. I double and triple checked all polarities and caps. I have NOT done the power board yet. Still waiting on the caps. I decided to test it with a few games. I am still getting white screen and no sound. Could this be because the power board is bad? I really hope so... I was so looking forward to resurrecting this childhood system.
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I've recently got my EPOCH TV Vader now, it's such a cool thing. It is in pretty bad shape, but I'm taking care of it. It does work on my German TV, but I hear no sound at all. Instead I get an almost clear signal of a radio station... Does anybody know how to fix this? I opened the thing up and there seems to be a part missing in the upper left corner, next to the Processor. I dont know what's missing -probably a capacitor? But if so, which one? If anybody has a TV Vader, can you help out and open it up to take a look... Could not find the guts of the TV vader anywhere on the net. Pictures will follow soon! mndn
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So I got a C64 a while back at goodwill for $2.99. It's an early board, version 326298. It hasn't worked since I bought it. When you plug it in, just a black screen. If you put a cartridge in, there's a garbled screen. Some people on a Commodore group thought it might be the PLA, so I bought a PLAnkton chip and installed it. No change. I then decided to start removing RAM chips and putting sockets in them. Anyone know a good source for these chips? Anyway, while removing the chips I managed to destroy the glass (didn't know those existed) capacitor at location C43. The schematic shows it's value as .22. The label on the capacitor is labeled "224." See attachments. A couple of questions: 1. Anyone know a possible cause of the garbage screen? 2. I'm not too savvy with the different RAM chips, anyone know a source for these? 3. And now I need a source for the glass capacitor at C43. What kind of capacitor/value can I use as a replacement?
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Tonight is a first for me. I recently picked up a beige v2.2 console and it does not power up. Aside from a power supply with a red LED shoved back onto itself (which gave me a good chuckle,) I found two leaked capacitors: a purple 100μF 16V to the bottom-left of the CPU, and one of the two 100μF 16V next to the VDP. These are axials and I do not have radials with long enough leads on-hand to replace them so I cannot be sure these are actually the problem, but they certainly represent a problem. I looked around the board and found these electrolytic capacitors: 3x 100μF 16V 4x 22μF 25V 1x 10μF 35V and one which has a value I cannot see but looks like one of the 22μF 25V. Note none of the Nichicons, the 22s and 10s, have leaked.
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The black and silver 99/4A in the eBay ad was purchased for a premium because they said it worked. It does! Hooray! However, when it arrived, it turns out to be a beige v2.2 unit and it has all kinds of cosmetic and electronic issues. Not the least of which is a video output that looks like a bad episode of the Twilight Zone. I can wield a soldering iron to some extent, and I know I need to at least clean up all of the contacts. But I am sure it goes deeper. This machine is old, yellow/brown, and it needs a RetrObrite treatment on the case, some TLC to repair the on/off switch (blue on the left side, no blue stripe) and it needs an addition of an F18A VGA video mod. I bought two a while ago. I'll save one for a real black and silver case, but I love orphans so the v2.2 will be saved for a future of limited use and public derision (as I coddle it and keep it safe). Is there a full-list of replacement capacitors for the Mobo? I'll be replacing ALL of them. That seems to be a weak point on all old electronic equipment. I suppose I should only ask for the proper type of replacement Capacitor and read the caps myself (hopefully, once I crack it open). Also, if you have any tips and gotcha's in this process, please shout it out. I'm goin' in! If someone has made a list, I could just purchase those on it and get moving quickly with an order from DigiKey or Amazon. Hunt the Wumpus in all it's glory. I love it.
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OK. I have a 4 switch board, revision 12 with a standard AV mod. Everything was working fine, but the color wasn't great, so I decided to "refresh" the board. I got the complete 2600 kit from Console5.com and I have installed everything except the two polystyrene capacitors (for the audio) , but I ran into an issue when installing the zener diodes and their caps. Here's what Console5 said on their site- "Pre-Revision 14: A pair of zener diodes and capacitors used for static protection on the trigger lines (J202 & J203). Equivalent to service parts CA018263. Each small yellow .1uf cap is soldered across each zener diode. Each diode/cap combo is then soldered with the diode's stripe end connected to joystick port Pin 6 and the opposite side to the nearest ground plane." I wasn't 100% sure how to do what they were saying, since it seemed odd, considering how hard it is to get to pin 6 from the top of the board and they didn't mention if these went on the bottom of the board like the 820 ohm resistor for better colors.. I then referred to these instructions in the field service manual- "Install the static modification on all 2600 units. Install CR202 and CR203 ( that's what they call the zener/cap combo), by removing C236 and C237 and inserting the C236/CR202 and C237/CR203 assemblies in their place (See Figure 3-2). CAUTION: Observe the polarity on CR202 and CR203 (the dark band must be toward the J202/J203 connectors)." I did exactly that, but when I powered the system up, I didn't get a picture. When I checked the voltages on the regulator, it was EXTREMELY low only around 3 volts going in and only 1 volt coming out. I knew something was wrong, so I removed both of little zener-cap packs (whatever you want to call it) and powered it up again, everything checked out and picture was back. So, I tried to follow the trace from pin 6 and see which side needed the Black stripe of the zener on it. From what I could tell, it was right the first time, but I knew that didn't work, so I gambled, reversed it and tried again. The regulator is showing the correct voltages and the joysticks and fire buttons work, everything seems right, but those zeners are reversed from what both instructions say. I decided to search for a photo online showing how someone else soldered theirs in and I came up with nothing. So, I started wondering if only the 6 switchers needed this, since my 4 switch doesn't have a CD4050 IC (which the site suggested I order also, for 50 cents) and based on everything I've read, that's what the static effects. If that's the case, you would think they would have made it clear somewhere that all of this was only for 6 switchers. My question is this, should I remove the zener diode packs and replace them with the original components or leave them as is, even if they are installed reversed? Now, that was my BIG issue, so for some smaller issues. With the new parts, I now have much better color and picture quality , mostly. I'm testing on an HDTV, since it's all I have availible right this minute (I'll have access to my CRT later tonight) My issue is this, I now have a bright purple line that runs down the far left side of the screen and a dark green line that runs down the very far right hand side. On some games these are dotted lines others they are solid. The most annoying instance is on Asteroids. the top and bottom quarters of the screen are fine, but the center portion is shifted to the right making the purple line sit closer to the actual game play area. Now this may all be unimportant once I connect it to a CRT, since it won't be a widescreen format and will hopefully cut off these lines anyway. The main thing is though, they weren't there before I replaced the caps. At one point, I thought the 820 ohm resistor on the TIA between pin 6 and 9 might have something to do with it, so I removed the resistor. The lines were still there, so I reinstalled the resistor and put the shields back on the board. Maybe I'll have to live with the purple and green lines as long as I'm using an HDTV... I used the supplied tiny wires when I installed my AV mod and it's been working fine, until today. While I had everything apart I noticed that there was some type of interference in my video. The best way I can describe it is a wave of "tint" coming from the right side of the screen. I noticed it did this if I got the Joystick or even just my hand close to the board. and if you touch the positive video wire from the mod board to the video rca jack, you could make the wave "dance". My question is, should I replace that wire with something thicker, possibly shielded? It's not an issue when it's all closed up in the case, but if you shake it enough to jiggle that wire inside, it will do the wave thing. My last question (hopefully).. The two polystyrene capacitors (for the audio), I hadn't intended to replace them, but I want advice, just in case I should. The audio works on every game, but the volume varies wildly from game to game. Some games you barely hear, others you almost have to turn all the way down to keep from going deaf. Is this something that those caps can correct or is that just the nature of some games? I would post photos, but getting to my camera and then USING it is a lot of work, so I was hoping that someone here could maybe shed some light on this without needing photos. If it turns out the photos are going to help, me and possibly other people, then I'll bite the bullet and dig out my camera. I'm really tempted to buy another 2600 with a newer board and seeing if it works any better than this one, but I've already got the 7800, which seems to be working perfectly, so I'm not doing anything to it until something in it dies, forcing me to reopen and repair it. Sorry this post is so long, Thank You to anyone who reads it all the way through and can offer some advice.
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Good morning, everyone, I'm finally brushed up on my soldering and desoldering (practicing off an obsolete 1027 mainboard), and am gathering the components I'll need to incorporate the ClearPic 2002 mod in my new family of 1200XLs. However, I'm already stumped and am hoping for assistance. For the resistors (1, 47, 75, 130, and 1k ohms) it appears that wattage plays a role in choice, yet that seems to be the most elusive bit of information for me after searching the forum as well as Google. I'm seeing anything from 1/4w up to 10w choices, but nothing at what I thought is the wattage of the 1200XL mainboard: 5v. Am I just looking for the wrong thing entirely? Thank you, in advance! Tim
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