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Found 120 results

  1. Dear All, After building a homebrew SIO2SD, I decided it would also be nice to have a multi-cartridge. I was also quite keen to see what SDX was all about, since its mentioned so much on the forum - so I wanted to build a cartridge that would support that. I looked at the Atarimax cartridges, but the price seemed a little bit steep and I really wanted another DIY project anyway. The SIC!Cart looked promising, since the design and PCB layout are freely available, but the use of a GAL put me off, since it meant I would need to also buy a GAL programmer and I really wanted to use current rather than obsolete parts. In the end I decided to have a go at making something myself, largely with the aim of learning a bit more electronics. I'm posting the design here, in case anybody fancies making one themselves - or if you are looking for a cheap way to make big cartridges for a new game. You can consider the design open source - feel free to improve. Introduction This is a design for a low-cost 128k or 512k cartridge, and it is designed to fit in a grey XL/XE style cartridge case. It uses standard 5v 32 pin flash EEPROMs. The cartridge is read-only - you need some way of programming the EEPROM (see below). Bank switching is carried out by a Xilinx CPLD. I've posted the files to support either the Atarimax 1mbit or 8mbit banking schemes. You'll also need a way to program the CPLD (see below). This isn't a project for everyone - you'll need to be happy soldering and have a bit of electronics knowledge. You'll probably also need at least an arduino. Parts list - 1mbit (128k) or 4mbit (512k) 32 pin Flash EEPROM e.g. SST39SF010, SST39SF040 (£1.50) - 32 pin DIP socket for the above (£0.25) - Xilinx XC9536XL (PLCC44) (£1.50) - PLCC44 socket for above (£0.70) - LP2950-33 LPE (or other 5v->3.3v regulator in TO-92 package) (£0.15) - 2 x 10uF electrolytic capacitor (£0.20) - 0.1uF ceramic capacitor (£0.10) - PCB (approx £20 for 10). Eagle files attached. I've used dirtypcbs (and oshpark for a earler revision). Total cost roughly £7 Programming the EEPROM I've tested both 128k and 512k flash EEPROMs. I don't have an EEPROM programmer, but I do have an arduino, and there's some code on the arduino forum for programming SST39SF010/040 chips, so I went with these. If you use a 128k chip then you can program it with a 1mbit atarimax image (use the 1mbit banking scheme on the CPLD). If you use a 512k chip then you can program it with half of a 8mbit atarimax image (use the 8mbit banking scheme on the CPLD). Programming the CPLD The design uses an XC9536XL PLCC44 CPLD. You'll need some way of programming this with the desired banking scheme. I use a bus-pirate to download the xsvf file to the device, using a homemade programming adapter. http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Bus_Pirate_JTAG_XSVF_player https://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/bus-pirate-v3-6-universal-serial-interface.html The programming adapter is nothing more than a PLCC44 socket on some protoboard, with +3.3V, GND, TDI, TDO, TMS and TCK from the bus pirate wired to the appropriate pins of the socket. I found I didn't need any capacitors. I believe its also possible to program these CPLDs with xsvf files using an arduino or raspberry pi - but I haven't tried. You'll still need to build some kind of adaptor using a PLCC44 socket. You don't need to use the atarimax banking scheme - I used it since it was easy to make images for testing, and SDX was available as a 1mbit atarimax image. Attached Files I've attached the eagle project (board and schematic). Also attached are the xsvf files for 1mbit and 8mbit banking schemes, and the corresponding VHDL+pin allocation files. Spares & Kits This is just a hobby project, but I've got 8 PCBs left-over if anybody is interested... PCB only - £4 (+postage) Note that the PCB does not have "hard gold" fingers on the edge connector - so it won't last forever. Having said that, I've tested with 30+ inserts and removals and no serious signs of wear. But if anybody knows a PCB manufacturer that can do proper gold fingers cheaply I would be very interested for future projects... I realise that programming the CPLD is the main hurdle to making one of these, so I can maybe offer those, or complete assembled boards if a few people are interested - since I'll have to order more CPLDs... PCB + Programmed CPLD - £8 (+postage) Assembled without case (with 128k eeprom, programmed CPLD) - £14 (+postage) Assembled without case (with 512k eeprom, programmed CPLD) - £15 (+postage) PM if interested. Atari 4mbit Cart Eagle.zip schematic.pdf xsvf files.zip
  2. Original release: restc.bin Instructions: restless.ii.instructions.onepage.pdf Request. Aliens have colors: rest.color.c.bin Request. Stars in the background take a break. rest.ciro.c.bin - - - - - Below is an early XB game, also now known as "Restless I". Thread goes ahead and develops "Restless II", a game written in Assembly and released as a binary for cartridge. Move your ship left and right using the joystick. Shoot by pushing joystick up. 100 CALL CLEAR::CALL SCREEN(2)::CALL MAGNIFY(3) 110 CALL CHAR(64,"01010103070F001B376FDF00D47F1F03808080C0A0D000B8B4DADD0055FEF8C") 120 CALL CHAR(68,"0043AF19193F3F78073B72637339100001C2F42828F4F43AE0DCCEC6CE9C08") 130 CALL CHAR(72,"0103030301010101010100010100000180C0C0C08080800080808080008") 140 CALL CHAR(76,"000000107C3828000703117D39280000000020F8701040E0FCF8F0B01") 150 CALL COLOR(6,5,1)::FOR X=1 TO 20::CALL HCHAR(X,RND*32,76)::NEXT X 160 CALL SPRITE(#1,64,16,170,96,#2,68,16,10,96,2,0,#3,72,10,200,256) 170 CALL JOYST(1,X,Y)::IF X THEN CALL MOTION(#1,0,X*4) 180 IF Y=0 THEN IF RND>.8 THEN CALL MOTION(#2,1,RND*32-16) 190 IF Y THEN CALL POSITION(#1,Y,X)::CALL SPRITE(#3,72,10,154,X,-16,0) 200 CALL POSITION(#3,Y,X)::IF Y>154 THEN CALL DELSPRITE(#3) 210 CALL POSITION(#2,Y,X)::IF Y>154 THEN CALL DELSPRITE(#3)::Y=1::GOTO 230 220 CALL COINC(ALL,X)::IF X=0 THEN 170 ELSE Y=2 230 CALL MOTION(#1,0,0,#2,0,0,#3,0,0)::FOR X=3 TO 16::CALL COLOR(#Y,X)::CALL SOUND(-300,-6,(X*2)-6)::NEXT X 240 CALL PATTERN(#Y,76)::FOR X=3 TO 16 STEP .2::CALL COLOR(#Y,X)::NEXT X::GOTO 160
  3. I have searched and have not found a complete list of incompatible carts, I just assume Virtua Racing & maybe early titles like Star Control won't work... Does anyone have a full list? I know there is some variance with each of the Atgames sega releases, this is the 81 built in games 2017 model. I just picked this up last night cheap with my GF because we just moved and wanted some quick 2 player Mortal Kombat lolz... anyhow, ANY help would be most appreciated!
  4. Since I'm always rapping about people cleaning their cart connectors, I thought I'd make this guide on how to do it properly It's amazing how many supposed issues can be fixed by clean connectors. Things you will need: A Jaguar and a cartridge (preferably dirty): Some isopropyl alcohol swabs and 2 pieces of plastic card. One roughly the same width as the swabs (like the one pictured) and one small enough to fit in the little end of the connector (which I can't find...) : If you want to go ghetto instead, you will need a clean t-shirt and some isopropyl or lighter fluid: Wrap your swab over the edge of your plastic card and insert into one end of the cartridge slot, pull it straight up, move along a bit, then down and up again. Repeat, repeat. Do NOT move the card sideways while it's inside the slot as you could bend the connectors. You'll need your small card to get your swab into the small end of the connector. Keep doing this until the swabs are coming out gleaming white: Or do the same, ghetto style, with your (preferably white) t-shirt. Keep the shirt tight over the card so no baggy parts will snag the connector pins, keep wetting it with isopropyl or lighter fluid, move onto a clean patch of shirt, up and down and up and down: That's your console done! Now onto the cart! Things you will need: Isopropyl or lighter fluid and cotton buds (q-tips) : Grasp your cartridge by the bottom as shown. I try to keep my fingers off the label so I don't leave any impressions (though the cart shown is a ratty second hand one) : Dip your cotton bud in your IPA or lighter fluid and scrub those connectors real good! Keep doing both sides of the connector with fresh buds and fresh liquid until they are coming away gleaming white: You will likely find that some cotton threads get stuck in there. Just get some tweezers and pull them out. You're pretty much done at this point, but I like to give my carts the GOLD treatment! If you want to do the GOLD treatment, you will need another cotton bud and some DeOxit contact enhancer. The correct use of DeOxit not only protects the contacts and enhances the electrical connection, but it also lubricates the connector so that insertion and removal of the carts is smoother. This can only be good for the cartridge slot. Similar procedure to before, but use the DeOxit sparingly! Just one drop on one side of the cotton bud will do for both sides of the connector. Make sure you also wet the beveled edge of the connector: Now use the clean end of the cotton bud to clean any DeOxit from the plastic parts, then wipe any excess from the connectors, while leaving a nice, light sheen on the pins and the beveled edge: And that's it! Every cart I get for every system goes through this, even if it's brand new (my OCD demands it...) As long as you clean your carts and make sure they stay clean, you should only have to do your console once.
  5. I bought the cartridge mentioned above, but no information about it. I am looking for A) a BOX scan and B) the manual. Can somebody help me with it?
  6. Hi, I am currently with Ciro in his place, we did dump his original cartridge TI Logo II - Deutsch. We did use the GramKracker device and also verified our finding by reading the grom memory when the module was in and all GramKracker functionality was off. The cartridge uses - 8K Rom - Grom 6000 (bank 3) - Grom 8000 (bank 4) - Grom A000 (bank 5) - Grom E000 (bank 7) The oddity is the Bank 6 is unused but nevertheless its memory space is reserved, as we see the last grom starts at E000 It is matching the "information" from the PC99 dump from Mike Wright, but it appears the rpk dump on whtech is using the content of bank 7 at bank6 if you examine the .bin file. Both dumps allow you to start the cartridge, but I can imagine that once the content of the last grom is required only one will work. So the question is, can the Grom Bank be modified without breaking functionality? Br Klaus
  7. I need to buy a pin connector for an Atari 2600 emulator Im building, which is hard, I bought a 24 pin edge connector, but it was the wrong size. I need to know how thick the board is, the size of each pin, and so on. I know that its 24 pins, and I also know that I need to have it be 3.5x1cm to fit in the dust shield. And simply put, I dont know how to open a cartridge and open it myself, and I dont want to risk destroying one either.
  8. I'm selling some of my prototype/eprom cartridges... Here it is the first for Gameboy on Ebay... eBay Auction -- Item Number: 171568020077
  9. Dear All, I've been playing with home-made cartridges over the last few weeks, using a CPLD for bank-switching, both on my 65XE and foft's DE1 FPGA atari. It's been a lot of fun. To connect the Atari to a breadboard, I made a little breakout board that plugs in the cartridge slot and allows me to hookup my 65XE to a breadboard. I've attached the eagle board file, if you want to make one yourself. I've also got a bunch of spare boards if anybody is interested in a ready-made one. Send me a private message with your address if you're interested. Price would be 2 pounds plus postage (probably about 70p for europe - might be more for the USA). The pins are labelled on both sides of the board and you can solder either male or female headers onto the board, depending on what kind of jumper wires you have. Atari XL's will probably need right-angled headers, and I'm not sure if the XL's cartridge slot flaps will get in the way, so if you've only got an XL I can't promise they will work. It probably doesn't need saying, but do be careful if you plug anything home-made in the back of your Atari - I managed to break my Atari's MMU when experimenting with cartridges! See- http://atariage.com/forums/topic/235824-i-thought-id-killed-my-65xe-now-im-not-so-sure-help/ Hope this is of interest to someone, Robin breakout.brd.zip
  10. Of all the ColecoVision Donkey Kong label variations I know, it would appear most of the U.S.-made carts do not have the TM (trademark) symbol at all next to the ColecoVision logo on the cartridge spine. All of the Taiwanese-made carts do, which place the TM symbol at the bottom right of the CV logo on the cartridge spine instead of at the top of it. Another variation I noticed is that some Taiwanese-made DK carts also do not have yellow stars, but white stars for the "O"s in the DK logo. As to pinpointing when each of these label variations were made, this will be a tough one without looking at the ROM chips inside. So here's a round-up of all the known label variations: "Made and printed in Taiwan" version: 1. No yellow stars for the "O"s in the DK logo - it's also possible the yellows may be faded. 2. Yellow stars for the "O"s in the DK logo. 3. On the label spine, the ColecoVision logo has a TM symbol at bottom right. On the main label view (when cart is inserted into the console) the CV logo (with PRESENTS below) also has the TM symbol at bottom right. 4. The DK logo, which places its TM symbol at top right, has the "by Nintendo" byline (also with a TM symbol at top right) on both the spine and main label view. "Printed in U.S.A." version: 1. Yellow stars for the "O"s in the DK logo. 2. On the label spine, the ColecoVision logo has TM symbol at top right. Ditto for the CV logo (with PRESENTS below) on the main label view. 3. Most copies have no TM symbol for the CV logo on label spine. 4. The DK logo is missing the "by Nintendo" byline from the label spine (the TM symbol is still there), but it is intact on the main label view (along with the TM symbol on the Nintendo byline). 5. Even the later "For COLECOVISION & ADAM" label version is missing the Nintendo byline (which on the main label view now has a registered trademark symbol, or ®) from the DK logo on the spine. The ColecoVision logo itself also now has the ® symbol next to it. These label variations might also have to do with whether they were more common in Canada than the U.S. ~Ben
  11. I'm looking to find these listed below: Plutos for the 7800 Will update soon will update soon
  12. Is there any reason to own a mini-memory cartridge if you own Editor/Assembler cartridge. I been eyeing a guy on eBay who been selling off about 1/2 dozen mini-mem carts and trying to justify to myself the purchase of one.
  13. Hi Everyone, I've owned a good dozen or more Solaris carts, and have run into difficulties with at least half of them. The most common difficulty is that the cart only displays in Black and White. Another difficulty is it just flat-out does not load, usually with some kind of squiggle screen or blank, depending on how many times I reseat it. I'm beginning to wonder if many of the Solaris carts in the US are actually PAL. Has anyone else had this much trouble with Solaris carts? Is there any way to tell if it is a PAL formatted cart or not? Thanks everyone! Evan
  14. What I am looking for is something to plug into an Interton VC4000 type console that will emulate the ROM and RAM in a game cartridge. It would need to connect to a PC via cable, Bluetooth or Wi-Fi and would be used for the purpose of game development. Does such a thing already exist? It seems to me that something like this would be quite possible using something like an Arduino or Raspberry Pi, but don't want to re-invent the wheel if there is already something out there that will do the job.
  15. If anyone is interested in doing a conversion of this new, original 5200 game for the 8-bit computers, the author has provided the source code and his blessing. Thread here: Ratcatcher 5200
  16. NEVERMIND. Going to sell the 128... Admin please delete this thread.
  17. Hi Atariage I found this mod on atarimuseum: http://atarimuseum.com/fb2hacks/ You have probably all heard about it before, but it allows an atari flashback 2 to play 2600 cartridges. My first question is: Is it possible to perform this mod on the flashback 4? I prefer the 4, since it has rca output, more built in games and wireless controller options. However, since i am not a modder, i would like to know if someone in here would be willing to mod the console for me, and what would you charge for it? - Buying a new console on ebay(i have already found a few). - Mod the console. - and send it to me(i live in Denmark). I will of course pay for console, shipping, materials and work hours(through paypal). P.S. Sorry for my potentially horrendous english, but as i stated before i am danish - so english is not my vernacular.
  18. As my first 2600 game is entering the testing phase, I'm hoping to have a number of cartridges made. I know that there's the option to have a custom cartridge made just like that and, while very tempting, I would like a number of cartridges made and it is sadly outside of my price range. So I was hoping to do so myself, as much as possible. Is there any explanation of what all is involved? From what I have heard, one would want plenty of existing games with little value which can be stripped down so their cartridges and boards may be used. It's all about needing a new EPROM, which are cheap to buy but must be burned with a pricey EPROM burner. So, my questions: 1. Is there any resource to explain how to make a custom cartridge oneself? If so, where? 2. How much can be salvaged from existing games? 3. What kind of EPROMs are required and where can they be purchased? 4. Is there anyone who already has an EPROM burner who would be willing to burn EPROMs for me on a pay-per-EPROM basis (with me paying for the EPROM, any shipping, as well as for the good individual's trouble)? Bulk orders in mind, here. 5. Is there anything else I should know about all this so I don't waste a lot of time and money on a wild goose chase? I'd very much appreciate any information folks can offer. Thanks!
  19. squaryc.bin - - - - - Well, steering a mouse with a joystick is perhaps not optimal, but here goes anyway. For this demo, you'll get to move around leaving a trail behind. No, it's not going to be another snake game. You accelerate and de-accelerate. If you hit the borders, you'll bounce off. Just like Parallax Starfield, you'll be able to form some pretty perfect circles, that is, if you know how to apply the right pressure(s) at the right time. And there's a bit of friction as well. As for the registration point of the mouse, I'm using the same original default from the Amiga Workbench 1.x.
  20. parac.bin - - - - - In the footsteps of managing 32 sprites, without more than 4 sprites per horizontal line, as explored in Bubbles (demo). If you keep a number of sprites stacked vertically (no vertical overlap), they will only occupy 1 of the 4 sprites allowed horizontally. In Bubbles I made each stack move up with their own individual speed. This time I will try and move the 4 stacks in any direction. Here's a quick setup of 4 stacks. Oh, and instead of having 8 sprites in each stack (or plane), it's 6 + 7 + 9 + 10 = 32 sprites. The number of stars close to you are less than those far away.
  21. So, I’m having a possible issue with getting 7800 cartridges *out* of my console. I’m aware of some 2600 carts not easily fitting at all, but this isn’t that. Is it normal to have to really work at a 7800 cart to get it out? For me Karateka seems to be the worst offender. Karateka also makes a bit of a “crunching” sound when the circuit board makes its connection. Pretty sure that can’t be good. If this is all par for the course, I can certainly live with it, but I’d definitely like to speak to the manager at some point! While we’re on the topic, can anyone share details on work being done to solve these issues?
  22. Hi, I have a VecFlash cartridge in a White 3D printed shell with a blue LED. Comes Complete with software and extras on SD card, Includes USB transfer cable. Free shipping to US. Will hold up to 31 32KB games. $65.00
  23. nicknickuk

    IMG 0717(1)

    From the album: Raspberry Pi Custom Atari case designs

    My Raspberry Pi case inspired by Atari the 2600 Berzerk cartridge. Black plastic case and I used Paint Shop Pro to design labels for Berzerk which the end result has a very good resemblance to an Atari 2600 cartridge. This looks amazing in the flesh.
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