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Found 116 results

  1. Hi, I’m new here. Trying to get back into the Atari 2600 scene. Does anyone know a good source to buy cartridge shells (cases) so I can fix a few of my broken games? thanks!
  2. Only on some of my carts I see a small series of stamped codes. What are these? Date codes? Examples on Star Raiders carts pictured: R 34 2 R 39 2 R 45 2
  3. I bought the cartridge mentioned above, but no information about it. I am looking for A) a BOX scan and B) the manual. Can somebody help me with it?
  4. Hi everyone! I got a TRS-80 Color Computer 2 about a month ago, and I need software for it. It came with nothing other than the unit, so I ordered a tape interface cable and a floppy controller kit. I couldn't find any cheap software for tape/disk, and so I'm asking here to see if I can get a deal. If you have any cartridges, tapes or disks for the CoCo 1 or 2 (64k), contact me and we can negotiate a price. My email: [email protected]
  5. Hi Everyone, I've owned a good dozen or more Solaris carts, and have run into difficulties with at least half of them. The most common difficulty is that the cart only displays in Black and White. Another difficulty is it just flat-out does not load, usually with some kind of squiggle screen or blank, depending on how many times I reseat it. I'm beginning to wonder if many of the Solaris carts in the US are actually PAL. Has anyone else had this much trouble with Solaris carts? Is there any way to tell if it is a PAL formatted cart or not? Thanks everyone! Evan
  6. Hello Everyone! For Sale: One Activision RiverRaid II loose cart for the Atari 2600 VCS. The pictures show the cart in pretty good condition. The two streaks on the front label are not raised and I cannot seem to remove them with wiping. I have not tried any other method. The cartridge has been wiped clean, contacts cleaned thoroughly, and tested! The price is $25, shipping included for the continental United States. I don't ship internationally but will ship to Alaska, Hawaii, US territories, and Canada (yes I know Canada is not the US but hey, I LOVE CANADA!) As a rule I warrantee all sales for 30 days after purchase. I've sold a bit on ebay (NitroRetro) so you can check my ratings there, since I have no reputation here as a relatively new AtariAge paying member. PM me if you are interested! Best, Evan PS: This is my first "for sale" post so apologies if I'm doing something wrong. Suggestions for improvement of what I'm doing are welcome!
  7. I just added AUDIn bank switching to my slideshow creator and all utilites. To test it, I used a patched version of mednafen. Thus I can claim it works nicely on soft and hardware. But now the questions: handy (and all other emulators) use the lnx file format which has support for two "banks". But this switching is done by "cart strobes". Now, if you look at the PIN layout, ther is only one read and one write strobe. So... Is there any usage of this feature in the emulators? Is there any ROM (I am not aware of) which is using this feature? If not, its only a two line modification of the emulators to use audin for switching the banks. If not, what would a be a good way to save the AUDIN switch in the lnx header? There are still few bytes free. adding two more banks? not really. adding a flag?
  8. Take a cartridge like the 2600 Adventure, and there’s numerous “hacks” (someone changed the original binary). Some of which have just changed graphics, but some may have changed sounds, maps, number of lives, and beyond changing data, some may even have changed code. I thought about speeding up Pac-Man/Ms. Pac-Man, or changing graphics, colors and more with TI Invaders. Also I thought about a utility to have maybe a definition file for each cartridge locating “objects” like graphics, sprites, colors, sounds, text, invulnerability etc., and then the ability to easily “inject” changed objects. Anyway, I ripped TI Invaders graphically. I start out with an 8K ROM and one 8K GROM. Now it looks like the ROM is only 4K (same chunk repeated). I expected the GROM to be 6K, but then almost 1K looks rather empty. The last 2K obviously being “leftovers” and looks like intertwined repeats. Well, just thought I’d tell you. I’m having a few ideas about a hacked TI Invaders. Should have a twist, be slick and fun too.
  9. After about eighteen months of development, I am pleased to announce the availability of the Aquaricart, the first and only multi-cart for the Aquarius Home Computer System! NOTE: The original Aquaricart shown above—which was built using repurposed Night Stalker cartridges—has been unavailable for some time. I have since switched to a new form factor based on the Intellivision cartridge design; see here for pictures. In addition to making the cartridges smaller, and easier to ship and store, this new design allowed me to reduce the price to $60 per cartridge (postage extra). Send me a PM, or e-mail me at [email protected], if you're interested! For those who are unfamiliar with it, the Aquaricart is a collection of ALL of the original cartridge software ever released for the Aquarius, along with several unreleased, prototype, and enhanced titles. It also includes the original instruction manuals and overlays, exclusive historical information and trivia, and Quick Reference guides ... all in electronic format, so they can be printed with the Aquarius Thermal Printer or viewed on-screen! Here is a complete list of the cartridge titles in the Aquaricart collection: AD&D Treasure of Tarmin Astrosmash Biorhythms BurgerTime Chess Demonstration Cartridge Extended BASIC FileForm FinForm Logo Melody Chase Mini Expander Diagnostic (an unreleased Radofin diagnostic tool) Night Stalker Shark! (an incomplete prototype of Intellivision Shark! Shark!) Snafu Space Speller TRON Deadly Discs Utopia X10 Command Console (the software for the unreleased Aquarius X10 home automation system) Zero In Plus, as a bonus: The 1541 OS ROM (an enhanced version of Extended BASIC) The Demonstration Cassette (the six mini-games originally included with the Aquarius on cassette tape—Stalactites, Macho-Man, Torment, Cute Cubes, Alien Quest, and Mad Mould—converted to cartridge format for instantaneous loading) "BurgerTime Plus" (an slightly enhanced BurgerTime which fixes two issues with the original that have always annoyed me: it increases the maximum number of peppers and lives from 9 to 99, and it removes the extra "junk" characters from the screen border) Each of these cartridges, along with the instruction manual text and other extra content, can be accessed through an easy-to-use menu interface that you can control from the keyboard or the hand controllers. Or, if you prefer to skip the menu, you can use the "Quick Boot" feature to jump immediately to the cartridge of your choice on startup. The Aquaricart is fully compatible with a stock Aquarius computer console, so no Mini Expander or extra RAM are required (although some of the cartridges in the collection recommend or require extra RAM). Here is a video by The Immortal John Hancock which demonstrates the Aquarius and the Aquaricart in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HbjOnC-JSE I'm offering fully assembled Aquaricart cartridges for $60 each. They include a color cartridge label and a printed manual. Here is the current design: If you're interested in adding the Aquaricart to your collection, contact me via PM—or, if you're not an AtariAge member, click on my profile and use the e-mail link. Be sure to include your shipping address so I can calculate the postage and give you a final total. If I have an Aquaricart cartridge ready to send, we will exchange information and complete the transaction; otherwise, I will provide an estimate of when it will be available (usually within one week). I won't accept payment unless I have a tested product that is ready for shipment, so you won't be kept waiting for your order any longer than necessary. I'm in the process of putting together a web site for the Aquaricart, which will offer complete scans of the original instruction manuals and other useful Aquarius resources. In the meantime, if you're interested, you can follow the eighteen-month development history of the Aquaricart in the original project thread, which includes testimonials from fellow Aquarius owners. Thanks for your interest and support!
  10. Since I'm always rapping about people cleaning their cart connectors, I thought I'd make this guide on how to do it properly It's amazing how many supposed issues can be fixed by clean connectors. Things you will need: A Jaguar and a cartridge (preferably dirty): Some isopropyl alcohol swabs and 2 pieces of plastic card. One roughly the same width as the swabs (like the one pictured) and one small enough to fit in the little end of the connector (which I can't find...) : If you want to go ghetto instead, you will need a clean t-shirt and some isopropyl or lighter fluid: Wrap your swab over the edge of your plastic card and insert into one end of the cartridge slot, pull it straight up, move along a bit, then down and up again. Repeat, repeat. Do NOT move the card sideways while it's inside the slot as you could bend the connectors. You'll need your small card to get your swab into the small end of the connector. Keep doing this until the swabs are coming out gleaming white: Or do the same, ghetto style, with your (preferably white) t-shirt. Keep the shirt tight over the card so no baggy parts will snag the connector pins, keep wetting it with isopropyl or lighter fluid, move onto a clean patch of shirt, up and down and up and down: That's your console done! Now onto the cart! Things you will need: Isopropyl or lighter fluid and cotton buds (q-tips) : Grasp your cartridge by the bottom as shown. I try to keep my fingers off the label so I don't leave any impressions (though the cart shown is a ratty second hand one) : Dip your cotton bud in your IPA or lighter fluid and scrub those connectors real good! Keep doing both sides of the connector with fresh buds and fresh liquid until they are coming away gleaming white: You will likely find that some cotton threads get stuck in there. Just get some tweezers and pull them out. You're pretty much done at this point, but I like to give my carts the GOLD treatment! If you want to do the GOLD treatment, you will need another cotton bud and some DeOxit contact enhancer. The correct use of DeOxit not only protects the contacts and enhances the electrical connection, but it also lubricates the connector so that insertion and removal of the carts is smoother. This can only be good for the cartridge slot. Similar procedure to before, but use the DeOxit sparingly! Just one drop on one side of the cotton bud will do for both sides of the connector. Make sure you also wet the beveled edge of the connector: Now use the clean end of the cotton bud to clean any DeOxit from the plastic parts, then wipe any excess from the connectors, while leaving a nice, light sheen on the pins and the beveled edge: And that's it! Every cart I get for every system goes through this, even if it's brand new (my OCD demands it...) As long as you clean your carts and make sure they stay clean, you should only have to do your console once.
  11. Dear All, After building a homebrew SIO2SD, I decided it would also be nice to have a multi-cartridge. I was also quite keen to see what SDX was all about, since its mentioned so much on the forum - so I wanted to build a cartridge that would support that. I looked at the Atarimax cartridges, but the price seemed a little bit steep and I really wanted another DIY project anyway. The SIC!Cart looked promising, since the design and PCB layout are freely available, but the use of a GAL put me off, since it meant I would need to also buy a GAL programmer and I really wanted to use current rather than obsolete parts. In the end I decided to have a go at making something myself, largely with the aim of learning a bit more electronics. I'm posting the design here, in case anybody fancies making one themselves - or if you are looking for a cheap way to make big cartridges for a new game. You can consider the design open source - feel free to improve. Introduction This is a design for a low-cost 128k or 512k cartridge, and it is designed to fit in a grey XL/XE style cartridge case. It uses standard 5v 32 pin flash EEPROMs. The cartridge is read-only - you need some way of programming the EEPROM (see below). Bank switching is carried out by a Xilinx CPLD. I've posted the files to support either the Atarimax 1mbit or 8mbit banking schemes. You'll also need a way to program the CPLD (see below). This isn't a project for everyone - you'll need to be happy soldering and have a bit of electronics knowledge. You'll probably also need at least an arduino. Parts list - 1mbit (128k) or 4mbit (512k) 32 pin Flash EEPROM e.g. SST39SF010, SST39SF040 (£1.50) - 32 pin DIP socket for the above (£0.25) - Xilinx XC9536XL (PLCC44) (£1.50) - PLCC44 socket for above (£0.70) - LP2950-33 LPE (or other 5v->3.3v regulator in TO-92 package) (£0.15) - 2 x 10uF electrolytic capacitor (£0.20) - 0.1uF ceramic capacitor (£0.10) - PCB (approx £20 for 10). Eagle files attached. I've used dirtypcbs (and oshpark for a earler revision). Total cost roughly £7 Programming the EEPROM I've tested both 128k and 512k flash EEPROMs. I don't have an EEPROM programmer, but I do have an arduino, and there's some code on the arduino forum for programming SST39SF010/040 chips, so I went with these. If you use a 128k chip then you can program it with a 1mbit atarimax image (use the 1mbit banking scheme on the CPLD). If you use a 512k chip then you can program it with half of a 8mbit atarimax image (use the 8mbit banking scheme on the CPLD). Programming the CPLD The design uses an XC9536XL PLCC44 CPLD. You'll need some way of programming this with the desired banking scheme. I use a bus-pirate to download the xsvf file to the device, using a homemade programming adapter. http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Bus_Pirate_JTAG_XSVF_player https://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/bus-pirate-v3-6-universal-serial-interface.html The programming adapter is nothing more than a PLCC44 socket on some protoboard, with +3.3V, GND, TDI, TDO, TMS and TCK from the bus pirate wired to the appropriate pins of the socket. I found I didn't need any capacitors. I believe its also possible to program these CPLDs with xsvf files using an arduino or raspberry pi - but I haven't tried. You'll still need to build some kind of adaptor using a PLCC44 socket. You don't need to use the atarimax banking scheme - I used it since it was easy to make images for testing, and SDX was available as a 1mbit atarimax image. Attached Files I've attached the eagle project (board and schematic). Also attached are the xsvf files for 1mbit and 8mbit banking schemes, and the corresponding VHDL+pin allocation files. Spares & Kits This is just a hobby project, but I've got 8 PCBs left-over if anybody is interested... PCB only - £4 (+postage) Note that the PCB does not have "hard gold" fingers on the edge connector - so it won't last forever. Having said that, I've tested with 30+ inserts and removals and no serious signs of wear. But if anybody knows a PCB manufacturer that can do proper gold fingers cheaply I would be very interested for future projects... I realise that programming the CPLD is the main hurdle to making one of these, so I can maybe offer those, or complete assembled boards if a few people are interested - since I'll have to order more CPLDs... PCB + Programmed CPLD - £8 (+postage) Assembled without case (with 128k eeprom, programmed CPLD) - £14 (+postage) Assembled without case (with 512k eeprom, programmed CPLD) - £15 (+postage) PM if interested. Atari 4mbit Cart Eagle.zip schematic.pdf xsvf files.zip
  12. I'm selling some of my prototype/eprom cartridges... Here it is the first for Gameboy on Ebay... eBay Auction -- Item Number: 171568020077
  13. Dear All, I've been playing with home-made cartridges over the last few weeks, using a CPLD for bank-switching, both on my 65XE and foft's DE1 FPGA atari. It's been a lot of fun. To connect the Atari to a breadboard, I made a little breakout board that plugs in the cartridge slot and allows me to hookup my 65XE to a breadboard. I've attached the eagle board file, if you want to make one yourself. I've also got a bunch of spare boards if anybody is interested in a ready-made one. Send me a private message with your address if you're interested. Price would be 2 pounds plus postage (probably about 70p for europe - might be more for the USA). The pins are labelled on both sides of the board and you can solder either male or female headers onto the board, depending on what kind of jumper wires you have. Atari XL's will probably need right-angled headers, and I'm not sure if the XL's cartridge slot flaps will get in the way, so if you've only got an XL I can't promise they will work. It probably doesn't need saying, but do be careful if you plug anything home-made in the back of your Atari - I managed to break my Atari's MMU when experimenting with cartridges! See- http://atariage.com/forums/topic/235824-i-thought-id-killed-my-65xe-now-im-not-so-sure-help/ Hope this is of interest to someone, Robin breakout.brd.zip
  14. Is there any reason to own a mini-memory cartridge if you own Editor/Assembler cartridge. I been eyeing a guy on eBay who been selling off about 1/2 dozen mini-mem carts and trying to justify to myself the purchase of one.
  15. NEVERMIND. Going to sell the 128... Admin please delete this thread.
  16. As my first 2600 game is entering the testing phase, I'm hoping to have a number of cartridges made. I know that there's the option to have a custom cartridge made just like that and, while very tempting, I would like a number of cartridges made and it is sadly outside of my price range. So I was hoping to do so myself, as much as possible. Is there any explanation of what all is involved? From what I have heard, one would want plenty of existing games with little value which can be stripped down so their cartridges and boards may be used. It's all about needing a new EPROM, which are cheap to buy but must be burned with a pricey EPROM burner. So, my questions: 1. Is there any resource to explain how to make a custom cartridge oneself? If so, where? 2. How much can be salvaged from existing games? 3. What kind of EPROMs are required and where can they be purchased? 4. Is there anyone who already has an EPROM burner who would be willing to burn EPROMs for me on a pay-per-EPROM basis (with me paying for the EPROM, any shipping, as well as for the good individual's trouble)? Bulk orders in mind, here. 5. Is there anything else I should know about all this so I don't waste a lot of time and money on a wild goose chase? I'd very much appreciate any information folks can offer. Thanks!
  17. What I am looking for is something to plug into an Interton VC4000 type console that will emulate the ROM and RAM in a game cartridge. It would need to connect to a PC via cable, Bluetooth or Wi-Fi and would be used for the purpose of game development. Does such a thing already exist? It seems to me that something like this would be quite possible using something like an Arduino or Raspberry Pi, but don't want to re-invent the wheel if there is already something out there that will do the job.
  18. Hi, I am currently with Ciro in his place, we did dump his original cartridge TI Logo II - Deutsch. We did use the GramKracker device and also verified our finding by reading the grom memory when the module was in and all GramKracker functionality was off. The cartridge uses - 8K Rom - Grom 6000 (bank 3) - Grom 8000 (bank 4) - Grom A000 (bank 5) - Grom E000 (bank 7) The oddity is the Bank 6 is unused but nevertheless its memory space is reserved, as we see the last grom starts at E000 It is matching the "information" from the PC99 dump from Mike Wright, but it appears the rpk dump on whtech is using the content of bank 7 at bank6 if you examine the .bin file. Both dumps allow you to start the cartridge, but I can imagine that once the content of the last grom is required only one will work. So the question is, can the Grom Bank be modified without breaking functionality? Br Klaus
  19. I need to buy a pin connector for an Atari 2600 emulator Im building, which is hard, I bought a 24 pin edge connector, but it was the wrong size. I need to know how thick the board is, the size of each pin, and so on. I know that its 24 pins, and I also know that I need to have it be 3.5x1cm to fit in the dust shield. And simply put, I dont know how to open a cartridge and open it myself, and I dont want to risk destroying one either.
  20. If anyone is interested in doing a conversion of this new, original 5200 game for the 8-bit computers, the author has provided the source code and his blessing. Thread here: Ratcatcher 5200
  21. Of all the ColecoVision Donkey Kong label variations I know, it would appear most of the U.S.-made carts do not have the TM (trademark) symbol at all next to the ColecoVision logo on the cartridge spine. All of the Taiwanese-made carts do, which place the TM symbol at the bottom right of the CV logo on the cartridge spine instead of at the top of it. Another variation I noticed is that some Taiwanese-made DK carts also do not have yellow stars, but white stars for the "O"s in the DK logo. As to pinpointing when each of these label variations were made, this will be a tough one without looking at the ROM chips inside. So here's a round-up of all the known label variations: "Made and printed in Taiwan" version: 1. No yellow stars for the "O"s in the DK logo - it's also possible the yellows may be faded. 2. Yellow stars for the "O"s in the DK logo. 3. On the label spine, the ColecoVision logo has a TM symbol at bottom right. On the main label view (when cart is inserted into the console) the CV logo (with PRESENTS below) also has the TM symbol at bottom right. 4. The DK logo, which places its TM symbol at top right, has the "by Nintendo" byline (also with a TM symbol at top right) on both the spine and main label view. "Printed in U.S.A." version: 1. Yellow stars for the "O"s in the DK logo. 2. On the label spine, the ColecoVision logo has TM symbol at top right. Ditto for the CV logo (with PRESENTS below) on the main label view. 3. Most copies have no TM symbol for the CV logo on label spine. 4. The DK logo is missing the "by Nintendo" byline from the label spine (the TM symbol is still there), but it is intact on the main label view (along with the TM symbol on the Nintendo byline). 5. Even the later "For COLECOVISION & ADAM" label version is missing the Nintendo byline (which on the main label view now has a registered trademark symbol, or ®) from the DK logo on the spine. The ColecoVision logo itself also now has the ® symbol next to it. These label variations might also have to do with whether they were more common in Canada than the U.S. ~Ben
  22. I'm looking to find these listed below: Plutos for the 7800 Will update soon will update soon
  23. Hi Atariage I found this mod on atarimuseum: http://atarimuseum.com/fb2hacks/ You have probably all heard about it before, but it allows an atari flashback 2 to play 2600 cartridges. My first question is: Is it possible to perform this mod on the flashback 4? I prefer the 4, since it has rca output, more built in games and wireless controller options. However, since i am not a modder, i would like to know if someone in here would be willing to mod the console for me, and what would you charge for it? - Buying a new console on ebay(i have already found a few). - Mod the console. - and send it to me(i live in Denmark). I will of course pay for console, shipping, materials and work hours(through paypal). P.S. Sorry for my potentially horrendous english, but as i stated before i am danish - so english is not my vernacular.
  24. squaryc.bin - - - - - Well, steering a mouse with a joystick is perhaps not optimal, but here goes anyway. For this demo, you'll get to move around leaving a trail behind. No, it's not going to be another snake game. You accelerate and de-accelerate. If you hit the borders, you'll bounce off. Just like Parallax Starfield, you'll be able to form some pretty perfect circles, that is, if you know how to apply the right pressure(s) at the right time. And there's a bit of friction as well. As for the registration point of the mouse, I'm using the same original default from the Amiga Workbench 1.x.
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