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Found 110 results

  1. Since I'm always rapping about people cleaning their cart connectors, I thought I'd make this guide on how to do it properly It's amazing how many supposed issues can be fixed by clean connectors. Things you will need: A Jaguar and a cartridge (preferably dirty): Some isopropyl alcohol swabs and 2 pieces of plastic card. One roughly the same width as the swabs (like the one pictured) and one small enough to fit in the little end of the connector (which I can't find...) : If you want to go ghetto instead, you will need a clean t-shirt and some isopropyl or lighter fluid: Wrap your swab over the edge of your plastic card and insert into one end of the cartridge slot, pull it straight up, move along a bit, then down and up again. Repeat, repeat. Do NOT move the card sideways while it's inside the slot as you could bend the connectors. You'll need your small card to get your swab into the small end of the connector. Keep doing this until the swabs are coming out gleaming white: Or do the same, ghetto style, with your (preferably white) t-shirt. Keep the shirt tight over the card so no baggy parts will snag the connector pins, keep wetting it with isopropyl or lighter fluid, move onto a clean patch of shirt, up and down and up and down: That's your console done! Now onto the cart! Things you will need: Isopropyl or lighter fluid and cotton buds (q-tips) : Grasp your cartridge by the bottom as shown. I try to keep my fingers off the label so I don't leave any impressions (though the cart shown is a ratty second hand one) : Dip your cotton bud in your IPA or lighter fluid and scrub those connectors real good! Keep doing both sides of the connector with fresh buds and fresh liquid until they are coming away gleaming white: You will likely find that some cotton threads get stuck in there. Just get some tweezers and pull them out. You're pretty much done at this point, but I like to give my carts the GOLD treatment! If you want to do the GOLD treatment, you will need another cotton bud and some DeOxit contact enhancer. The correct use of DeOxit not only protects the contacts and enhances the electrical connection, but it also lubricates the connector so that insertion and removal of the carts is smoother. This can only be good for the cartridge slot. Similar procedure to before, but use the DeOxit sparingly! Just one drop on one side of the cotton bud will do for both sides of the connector. Make sure you also wet the beveled edge of the connector: Now use the clean end of the cotton bud to clean any DeOxit from the plastic parts, then wipe any excess from the connectors, while leaving a nice, light sheen on the pins and the beveled edge: And that's it! Every cart I get for every system goes through this, even if it's brand new (my OCD demands it...) As long as you clean your carts and make sure they stay clean, you should only have to do your console once.
  2. Dear All, After building a homebrew SIO2SD, I decided it would also be nice to have a multi-cartridge. I was also quite keen to see what SDX was all about, since its mentioned so much on the forum - so I wanted to build a cartridge that would support that. I looked at the Atarimax cartridges, but the price seemed a little bit steep and I really wanted another DIY project anyway. The SIC!Cart looked promising, since the design and PCB layout are freely available, but the use of a GAL put me off, since it meant I would need to also buy a GAL programmer and I really wanted to use current rather than obsolete parts. In the end I decided to have a go at making something myself, largely with the aim of learning a bit more electronics. I'm posting the design here, in case anybody fancies making one themselves - or if you are looking for a cheap way to make big cartridges for a new game. You can consider the design open source - feel free to improve. Introduction This is a design for a low-cost 128k or 512k cartridge, and it is designed to fit in a grey XL/XE style cartridge case. It uses standard 5v 32 pin flash EEPROMs. The cartridge is read-only - you need some way of programming the EEPROM (see below). Bank switching is carried out by a Xilinx CPLD. I've posted the files to support either the Atarimax 1mbit or 8mbit banking schemes. You'll also need a way to program the CPLD (see below). This isn't a project for everyone - you'll need to be happy soldering and have a bit of electronics knowledge. You'll probably also need at least an arduino. Parts list - 1mbit (128k) or 4mbit (512k) 32 pin Flash EEPROM e.g. SST39SF010, SST39SF040 (£1.50) - 32 pin DIP socket for the above (£0.25) - Xilinx XC9536XL (PLCC44) (£1.50) - PLCC44 socket for above (£0.70) - LP2950-33 LPE (or other 5v->3.3v regulator in TO-92 package) (£0.15) - 2 x 10uF electrolytic capacitor (£0.20) - 0.1uF ceramic capacitor (£0.10) - PCB (approx £20 for 10). Eagle files attached. I've used dirtypcbs (and oshpark for a earler revision). Total cost roughly £7 Programming the EEPROM I've tested both 128k and 512k flash EEPROMs. I don't have an EEPROM programmer, but I do have an arduino, and there's some code on the arduino forum for programming SST39SF010/040 chips, so I went with these. If you use a 128k chip then you can program it with a 1mbit atarimax image (use the 1mbit banking scheme on the CPLD). If you use a 512k chip then you can program it with half of a 8mbit atarimax image (use the 8mbit banking scheme on the CPLD). Programming the CPLD The design uses an XC9536XL PLCC44 CPLD. You'll need some way of programming this with the desired banking scheme. I use a bus-pirate to download the xsvf file to the device, using a homemade programming adapter. http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Bus_Pirate_JTAG_XSVF_player https://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/bus-pirate-v3-6-universal-serial-interface.html The programming adapter is nothing more than a PLCC44 socket on some protoboard, with +3.3V, GND, TDI, TDO, TMS and TCK from the bus pirate wired to the appropriate pins of the socket. I found I didn't need any capacitors. I believe its also possible to program these CPLDs with xsvf files using an arduino or raspberry pi - but I haven't tried. You'll still need to build some kind of adaptor using a PLCC44 socket. You don't need to use the atarimax banking scheme - I used it since it was easy to make images for testing, and SDX was available as a 1mbit atarimax image. Attached Files I've attached the eagle project (board and schematic). Also attached are the xsvf files for 1mbit and 8mbit banking schemes, and the corresponding VHDL+pin allocation files. Spares & Kits This is just a hobby project, but I've got 8 PCBs left-over if anybody is interested... PCB only - £4 (+postage) Note that the PCB does not have "hard gold" fingers on the edge connector - so it won't last forever. Having said that, I've tested with 30+ inserts and removals and no serious signs of wear. But if anybody knows a PCB manufacturer that can do proper gold fingers cheaply I would be very interested for future projects... I realise that programming the CPLD is the main hurdle to making one of these, so I can maybe offer those, or complete assembled boards if a few people are interested - since I'll have to order more CPLDs... PCB + Programmed CPLD - £8 (+postage) Assembled without case (with 128k eeprom, programmed CPLD) - £14 (+postage) Assembled without case (with 512k eeprom, programmed CPLD) - £15 (+postage) PM if interested. Atari 4mbit Cart Eagle.zip schematic.pdf xsvf files.zip
  3. Hi, I am currently with Ciro in his place, we did dump his original cartridge TI Logo II - Deutsch. We did use the GramKracker device and also verified our finding by reading the grom memory when the module was in and all GramKracker functionality was off. The cartridge uses - 8K Rom - Grom 6000 (bank 3) - Grom 8000 (bank 4) - Grom A000 (bank 5) - Grom E000 (bank 7) The oddity is the Bank 6 is unused but nevertheless its memory space is reserved, as we see the last grom starts at E000 It is matching the "information" from the PC99 dump from Mike Wright, but it appears the rpk dump on whtech is using the content of bank 7 at bank6 if you examine the .bin file. Both dumps allow you to start the cartridge, but I can imagine that once the content of the last grom is required only one will work. So the question is, can the Grom Bank be modified without breaking functionality? Br Klaus
  4. Hi All, As some of you may have noticed, I've been writing a series of DIY Atari 8-bit hardware articles for Excel magazine. For Issue #4 (due soon) I've contributed articles on both the Pixels Past 8k and 16k EPROM based cartridges, and also building instructions for my own latest design, the UnoCart. Building your own UnoCart is not massively difficult and involves just a small amount of easy (thru-hole) soldering. The key item is a STM32F407 Discovery board, which is readily available from most electronics suppliers for <£20. Using an off the shelf arduino-like board avoids almost all of the difficult soldering. The only hard to get item is a Atari cartridge breakout board (pictured). The article describes how you can get these made from the provided files yourself from a PCB manufacturer (a batch of 10 can be obtained for not much more than £10 from the cheap chinese suppliers), but I thought it would be easier if I offered some spare ones here. These are suitable for XL/XE machines. So, if anybody is planning to work through the project in Excel magazine (and wants to get ready in advance), then I've got about 8 cartridge breakout boards spare and available for £3 + P&P. Please reply here if you want one. Can I ask that anybody asking for a board confirms they have already reserved their copy of issue #4 of Excel magazine, since I'd prefer these boards to go to readers of the magazine. Robin
  5. Persistent RAM Intra-Tech Computer Products Before I try this in my 800... Any idea what I have here? What the two switches do? Is it rare/valuable? Edit: Wait... I found this. I should have searched first :-)
  6. PLATOTERM Lite Version 1.3 About this test release The Entire code-base has been brought up by starting from a skeleton implementation of PLATOTERM, and folding in precisely only the required functionality, testing each touch driver to make sure that it fits correctly within the 16K ROM address space. The Serial driver has also had its input buffer drastically increased (to 2048 bytes), which should allow testing of higher speeds. There still is much work to be done, hopefully Mr. Atari's SIO changes can be folded in. Baud rate selection is now possible by pressing SELECT-1, 2, 4, or 9 for 1200, 2400, 4800, or 9600 baud respectively. Also to be done, are various initialization tasks (such as ensuring that page 6 isn't blown away, at Mr. Atari's request.) About The Atari Lite Release This is a special version of PLATOTERM, that has been re-organized to fit the code within approximately 16K of space, so that it can be fit onto a cartridge, In order to do this, preferences was eliminated completely, and 1200 baud is initially selected. But the upside is, you can flash this onto a cartridge. Like the larger version, PLATOTERM requires a loaded R: handler. The cartridges are configured to load the DOS first, before jumping into the main program, so any handlers you wish to run, you should be sure they are loaded first (e.g with AUTORUN.SYS). Since devices like the Atari 850 can autoboot their handler if no disk drive is present, they will also work with the cartridge version. Just be sure that the 850 interface is switched on, before poweron. R-Verter users must ensure their handler is loaded, before starting PLATOTERM. The only available hotkeys are: SELECT-T to switch to TTY mode. SELECT-P to switch to PLATO mode. SELECT-X will exit the cartridge to DOS. SELECT-RETURN to send a carriage return and a line feed. SELECT-1 to switch to 1200 baud. SELECT-2 to switch to 2400 baud. SELECT-4 to switch to 4800 baud. SELECT-9 to switch to 9600 baud. Versions available: There are file and cartridge versions available for the following touch devices: Atari Joystick Atari CX77 Touch Tablet Atari CX80 Trak-Ball Atari ST Mouse Amiga Mouse in addition, a ROM without any pointer device driver is also available. What is PLATOTERM? PLATOTERM is a terminal emulator to access CYBIS services now available on the Internet utilizing a WIFI Modem. For the purposes of this documentation. PLATO and CYBIS are interchangeable names for the same platform. What services are currently available to access via PLATOTERM? As of writing this preliminary documentation (September 2019), there are two major CYBIS systems running. CYBER1.ORG and IRATA.ONLINE. WHAT IS PLATO? (aka CYBIS?) (from the PLATO wikipedia page:) PLATO (Programmed Logic for Automatic Teaching Operations), was the first generalized computer-asisted instruction system. Starting in 1960, it ran on the University of Illinois ILLIAC I computer. By the late 1970s, it supported several thousand graphics terminals distributed worldwide, running on nearly a dozen different networked mainframe computers. Many modern concepts in multi-user computing were originally developed on PLATO, including forums, message boards, online testing, e-mail, chat rooms, picture languages, instant messaging, remote screen sharing, and multi-player games. What is CYBER1.ORG? CYBER1.ORG is a CYBIS system initially set up in 2004, as a haven for ex-PLATO users to experience a classic PLATO author experience. CYBER1.ORG is home to many thousands of classic PLATO lessons and notesfiles which have been restored from various sources, and have been made available in the interests of preserving PLATO. What is IRATA.ONLINE? IRATA.ONLINE is a CYBIS system that has been set up for the benefit of the greater vintage computing community, in the interest to provide a unique experience that can be accessed on a wide variety of vintage computers with a bitmapped graphics display. To this end, IRATA.ONLINE develops PLATOTERM for dozens of platforms, so that they can access CYBIS systems, as well as provide a community and learning infrastructure for vintage computing users of all types, in the hopes that as a cohesive community, something unique can hopefully emerge. What is the connection between IRATA.ONLINE and CYBER1.ORG? CYBER1.ORG and IRATA.ONLINE are independent of one another. With that said, the reason IRATA.ONLINE and PLATOTERM exist, are because of the efforts of CYBER1.ORG to not only preserve a running PLATO system, and provide the necessary information for interested parties to write terminal software to access CYBIS systems, but also in their effort to produce a publically available distribution of CYBIS that others who are interested may also run their own CYBIS installation. IRATA.ONLINE is a direct result of the public release of this distribution. Connecting to IRATA.ONLINE Once PLATOTERM is started, you can connect to CYBER1.ORG using your WIFI modem, using a command such as: ATDTIRATA.ONLINE:8005 Connecting to CYBER1.ORG Once PLATOTERM is started, you can connect to CYBER1.ORG using your WIFI modem, using a command such as: ATDTCYBERSERV.ORG:8005 PLATO Keyboard The PLATO keyboard is mapped to the Atari keys, like so: PLATO KEY Atari Key ANS CTRL-A BACK CTRL-B SHIFT-BACK CTRL- + (left arrow) COPY CTRL-C SHIFT-COPY CTRL- - (up arrow) DATA CTRL-D SHIFT-DATA SHIFT-CTRL-D EDIT CTRL-E SHIFT-EDIT SHIFT-CTRL-E FONT CTRL-F ÷ CTRL-G HELP CTRL-I SHIFT-HELP SHIFT CTRL-H LAB CTRL-L SHIFT-LAB CTRL-= (down arrow) SUPER CTRL-P SHIFT-SUPER SHIFT CTRL-P SQUARE CTRL-Q ACCESS SHIFT CTRL-Q STOP CTRL-S SHIFT-STOP SHIFT CTRL-S TERM CTRL-T × CTRL-X SUB CTRL-Y SHIFT-SUB SHIFT CTRL-Y ⇐ ESC CR and LF Select RETURN MICRO Symbols PLATO KEY MICRO Key α A β B ¸ C δ D æ G ø H å J ä K λ L μ M &126; N ° O π P ` Q ρ R σ S Θ T ¨ U ˇ V ω W ‸ X ö Y l-embed 0 r-embed 1 ˷ : ↕ , ≠ = ← SHIFT A ↓ SHIFT X → SHIFT D ↑ SHIFT W © SHIFT C ⬩ SHIFT F &Aelig; SHIFT G Ø SHIFT H Å SHIFT J Ä SHIFT K □ SHIFT O Ö SHIFT Y ≤ SHIFT < ≥ SHIFT > { SHIFT [ } SHIFT ] ⨉ CTRL X ≡ SHIFT ) Arrow 6 Credits '''Thomas Cherryhomes''' - Terminal coding, sleepless nights. '''Steve Peltz''' - original PAD protocol decoder from MacPAD. '''Christian Groessler''' - multiply funcs for Atari, lots of testing '''Jon Halliday''' - Fast text output routines for Atari '''Ron Klein''' - Testing, testing, and more testing ' '''Sijmen Schouten''' - FAST I/O and R-Verter support! Testing, testing, and more testing. '''Michael Sternberg''' - Apple2 testing, showing off at Kansasfest 2018 '''The.Doctor''' - Help tuning XON/XOFF parameters. '''John Buell''' - Testing '''John Manterola''' - Testing '''Jasmaz''' - Commodore 64 testing '''Paul Rickards''' - Commodore 64 testing '''Glenn Wiorek''' - Commodore 64 testing. '''Rory McMahon''' - Testing PLATOTERM-LITE-ATARI-1.3-ALL.zip
  7. Hi everyone! I have trouble programming a gal yo make a custom d flop with reset un a gal22v10. Currently, I can program the reset and obtain all 0s or 1s. But i need to implement different values on reset, for example: 10101010 Is there any way to program something like they on Wincupl? Does anyone know how? Thanks in advance!
  8. I have searched and have not found a complete list of incompatible carts, I just assume Virtua Racing & maybe early titles like Star Control won't work... Does anyone have a full list? I know there is some variance with each of the Atgames sega releases, this is the 81 built in games 2017 model. I just picked this up last night cheap with my GF because we just moved and wanted some quick 2 player Mortal Kombat lolz... anyhow, ANY help would be most appreciated!
  9. Thanks to the efforts of foft (Mark Watson) and his Atari FPGA project, there is an open source FPGA pokey implementation available. As a little Easter bank holiday project, I thought I'd have a go at using it to make a dual pokey cartridge using a prototype of the Ultimate Cart as the starting point... Two of the fpga pins act as audio left and right, and I've hooked them up to a low pass filter on some perfboard, along with a 3.5mm stereo jack (which leads to my TV's audio input). It was pretty easy to make a firmware for the Ultimate Cart that included two of foft's pokeys, his DAC and a bit of VHDL to hook them up to the cartridge port. Then I modified TMC and RMTPlayer (with a hex editor) to output to the two pokeys at $D50x and $D58x. I guess technically this atari has 3 pokeys now (one inside, and two on the cartridge). The two pokeys use about 10% of the Ultimate Cart's FPGA, so there is plenty room for more. This was just for fun, and perhaps to show a little of what is possible with a FPGA hooked up to the cart port. To make a proper external dual pokey, we'd probably want to use ECI+Cart port, so the pokeys could appear in the correct places in the memory map. MP3 of TMC playing via the dual pokeys attached. SynthyGambol_vhdl_pokey.mp3
  10. After about eighteen months of development, I am pleased to announce the availability of the Aquaricart, the first and only multi-cart for the Aquarius Home Computer System! NOTE: The original Aquaricart shown above—which was built using repurposed Night Stalker cartridges—has been unavailable for some time. I have since switched to a new form factor based on the Intellivision cartridge design; see here for pictures. In addition to making the cartridges smaller, and easier to ship and store, this new design allowed me to reduce the price to $60 per cartridge (postage extra). Send me a PM, or e-mail me at [email protected], if you're interested! For those who are unfamiliar with it, the Aquaricart is a collection of ALL of the original cartridge software ever released for the Aquarius, along with several unreleased, prototype, and enhanced titles. It also includes the original instruction manuals and overlays, exclusive historical information and trivia, and Quick Reference guides ... all in electronic format, so they can be printed with the Aquarius Thermal Printer or viewed on-screen! Here is a complete list of the cartridge titles in the Aquaricart collection: AD&D Treasure of Tarmin Astrosmash Biorhythms BurgerTime Chess Demonstration Cartridge Extended BASIC FileForm FinForm Logo Melody Chase Mini Expander Diagnostic (an unreleased Radofin diagnostic tool) Night Stalker Shark! (an incomplete prototype of Intellivision Shark! Shark!) Snafu Space Speller TRON Deadly Discs Utopia X10 Command Console (the software for the unreleased Aquarius X10 home automation system) Zero In Plus, as a bonus: The 1541 OS ROM (an enhanced version of Extended BASIC) The Demonstration Cassette (the six mini-games originally included with the Aquarius on cassette tape—Stalactites, Macho-Man, Torment, Cute Cubes, Alien Quest, and Mad Mould—converted to cartridge format for instantaneous loading) "BurgerTime Plus" (an slightly enhanced BurgerTime which fixes two issues with the original that have always annoyed me: it increases the maximum number of peppers and lives from 9 to 99, and it removes the extra "junk" characters from the screen border) Each of these cartridges, along with the instruction manual text and other extra content, can be accessed through an easy-to-use menu interface that you can control from the keyboard or the hand controllers. Or, if you prefer to skip the menu, you can use the "Quick Boot" feature to jump immediately to the cartridge of your choice on startup. The Aquaricart is fully compatible with a stock Aquarius computer console, so no Mini Expander or extra RAM are required (although some of the cartridges in the collection recommend or require extra RAM). Here is a video by The Immortal John Hancock which demonstrates the Aquarius and the Aquaricart in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HbjOnC-JSE I'm offering fully assembled Aquaricart cartridges for $60 each. They include a color cartridge label and a printed manual. Here is the current design: If you're interested in adding the Aquaricart to your collection, contact me via PM—or, if you're not an AtariAge member, click on my profile and use the e-mail link. Be sure to include your shipping address so I can calculate the postage and give you a final total. If I have an Aquaricart cartridge ready to send, we will exchange information and complete the transaction; otherwise, I will provide an estimate of when it will be available (usually within one week). I won't accept payment unless I have a tested product that is ready for shipment, so you won't be kept waiting for your order any longer than necessary. I'm in the process of putting together a web site for the Aquaricart, which will offer complete scans of the original instruction manuals and other useful Aquarius resources. In the meantime, if you're interested, you can follow the eighteen-month development history of the Aquaricart in the original project thread, which includes testimonials from fellow Aquarius owners. Thanks for your interest and support!
  11. As my first 2600 game is entering the testing phase, I'm hoping to have a number of cartridges made. I know that there's the option to have a custom cartridge made just like that and, while very tempting, I would like a number of cartridges made and it is sadly outside of my price range. So I was hoping to do so myself, as much as possible. Is there any explanation of what all is involved? From what I have heard, one would want plenty of existing games with little value which can be stripped down so their cartridges and boards may be used. It's all about needing a new EPROM, which are cheap to buy but must be burned with a pricey EPROM burner. So, my questions: 1. Is there any resource to explain how to make a custom cartridge oneself? If so, where? 2. How much can be salvaged from existing games? 3. What kind of EPROMs are required and where can they be purchased? 4. Is there anyone who already has an EPROM burner who would be willing to burn EPROMs for me on a pay-per-EPROM basis (with me paying for the EPROM, any shipping, as well as for the good individual's trouble)? Bulk orders in mind, here. 5. Is there anything else I should know about all this so I don't waste a lot of time and money on a wild goose chase? I'd very much appreciate any information folks can offer. Thanks!
  12. Nine Intellivision cartridges. I acquired these 22 years ago and they worked at the time, but I never have owned, do not own, and do not intend to own an Intellivision, so here they are and I have no way to test them today. Varying degrees of completeness, but all including boxes. Bear in mind the boxes have not been well taken care of but are mostly intact: most have some level of having been crushed and the Donkey Kong box is ripped. I will not be parting these out. I am offering these FREE, just pay for shipping. I am in the process of clearing out stuff I no longer or cannot use. I would rather get these into a good home than send to donation, likely to be destroyed, or recycle. Shipping will be via USPS Large Flat-Rate Priority. (Note, Triple Action is pictured but not available.) Game, Includes (Box, Manual, Overlay) BurgerTime B,O Las Vegas Poker & Blackjack (Mattel) B,M Donkey Kong B,M Super Video Arcade Sea Battle B,M Major League Baseball B Lock 'n' Chase B Space Armada (Mattel) B,M,O Utopia (Mattel) B,M,O Space Spartans B,M,O
  13. I'm selling some of my prototype/eprom cartridges... Here it is the first for Gameboy on Ebay... eBay Auction -- Item Number: 171568020077
  14. Dear All, I've been playing with home-made cartridges over the last few weeks, using a CPLD for bank-switching, both on my 65XE and foft's DE1 FPGA atari. It's been a lot of fun. To connect the Atari to a breadboard, I made a little breakout board that plugs in the cartridge slot and allows me to hookup my 65XE to a breadboard. I've attached the eagle board file, if you want to make one yourself. I've also got a bunch of spare boards if anybody is interested in a ready-made one. Send me a private message with your address if you're interested. Price would be 2 pounds plus postage (probably about 70p for europe - might be more for the USA). The pins are labelled on both sides of the board and you can solder either male or female headers onto the board, depending on what kind of jumper wires you have. Atari XL's will probably need right-angled headers, and I'm not sure if the XL's cartridge slot flaps will get in the way, so if you've only got an XL I can't promise they will work. It probably doesn't need saying, but do be careful if you plug anything home-made in the back of your Atari - I managed to break my Atari's MMU when experimenting with cartridges! See- http://atariage.com/forums/topic/235824-i-thought-id-killed-my-65xe-now-im-not-so-sure-help/ Hope this is of interest to someone, Robin breakout.brd.zip
  15. Is there any reason to own a mini-memory cartridge if you own Editor/Assembler cartridge. I been eyeing a guy on eBay who been selling off about 1/2 dozen mini-mem carts and trying to justify to myself the purchase of one.
  16. NEVERMIND. Going to sell the 128... Admin please delete this thread.
  17. What I am looking for is something to plug into an Interton VC4000 type console that will emulate the ROM and RAM in a game cartridge. It would need to connect to a PC via cable, Bluetooth or Wi-Fi and would be used for the purpose of game development. Does such a thing already exist? It seems to me that something like this would be quite possible using something like an Arduino or Raspberry Pi, but don't want to re-invent the wheel if there is already something out there that will do the job.
  18. I need to buy a pin connector for an Atari 2600 emulator Im building, which is hard, I bought a 24 pin edge connector, but it was the wrong size. I need to know how thick the board is, the size of each pin, and so on. I know that its 24 pins, and I also know that I need to have it be 3.5x1cm to fit in the dust shield. And simply put, I dont know how to open a cartridge and open it myself, and I dont want to risk destroying one either.
  19. If anyone is interested in doing a conversion of this new, original 5200 game for the 8-bit computers, the author has provided the source code and his blessing. Thread here: Ratcatcher 5200
  20. Of all the ColecoVision Donkey Kong label variations I know, it would appear most of the U.S.-made carts do not have the TM (trademark) symbol at all next to the ColecoVision logo on the cartridge spine. All of the Taiwanese-made carts do, which place the TM symbol at the bottom right of the CV logo on the cartridge spine instead of at the top of it. Another variation I noticed is that some Taiwanese-made DK carts also do not have yellow stars, but white stars for the "O"s in the DK logo. As to pinpointing when each of these label variations were made, this will be a tough one without looking at the ROM chips inside. So here's a round-up of all the known label variations: "Made and printed in Taiwan" version: 1. No yellow stars for the "O"s in the DK logo - it's also possible the yellows may be faded. 2. Yellow stars for the "O"s in the DK logo. 3. On the label spine, the ColecoVision logo has a TM symbol at bottom right. On the main label view (when cart is inserted into the console) the CV logo (with PRESENTS below) also has the TM symbol at bottom right. 4. The DK logo, which places its TM symbol at top right, has the "by Nintendo" byline (also with a TM symbol at top right) on both the spine and main label view. "Printed in U.S.A." version: 1. Yellow stars for the "O"s in the DK logo. 2. On the label spine, the ColecoVision logo has TM symbol at top right. Ditto for the CV logo (with PRESENTS below) on the main label view. 3. Most copies have no TM symbol for the CV logo on label spine. 4. The DK logo is missing the "by Nintendo" byline from the label spine (the TM symbol is still there), but it is intact on the main label view (along with the TM symbol on the Nintendo byline). 5. Even the later "For COLECOVISION & ADAM" label version is missing the Nintendo byline (which on the main label view now has a registered trademark symbol, or ®) from the DK logo on the spine. The ColecoVision logo itself also now has the ® symbol next to it. These label variations might also have to do with whether they were more common in Canada than the U.S. ~Ben
  21. I'm looking to find these listed below: Plutos for the 7800 Will update soon will update soon
  22. Hi Atariage I found this mod on atarimuseum: http://atarimuseum.com/fb2hacks/ You have probably all heard about it before, but it allows an atari flashback 2 to play 2600 cartridges. My first question is: Is it possible to perform this mod on the flashback 4? I prefer the 4, since it has rca output, more built in games and wireless controller options. However, since i am not a modder, i would like to know if someone in here would be willing to mod the console for me, and what would you charge for it? - Buying a new console on ebay(i have already found a few). - Mod the console. - and send it to me(i live in Denmark). I will of course pay for console, shipping, materials and work hours(through paypal). P.S. Sorry for my potentially horrendous english, but as i stated before i am danish - so english is not my vernacular.
  23. squaryc.bin - - - - - Well, steering a mouse with a joystick is perhaps not optimal, but here goes anyway. For this demo, you'll get to move around leaving a trail behind. No, it's not going to be another snake game. You accelerate and de-accelerate. If you hit the borders, you'll bounce off. Just like Parallax Starfield, you'll be able to form some pretty perfect circles, that is, if you know how to apply the right pressure(s) at the right time. And there's a bit of friction as well. As for the registration point of the mouse, I'm using the same original default from the Amiga Workbench 1.x.
  24. parac.bin - - - - - In the footsteps of managing 32 sprites, without more than 4 sprites per horizontal line, as explored in Bubbles (demo). If you keep a number of sprites stacked vertically (no vertical overlap), they will only occupy 1 of the 4 sprites allowed horizontally. In Bubbles I made each stack move up with their own individual speed. This time I will try and move the 4 stacks in any direction. Here's a quick setup of 4 stacks. Oh, and instead of having 8 sprites in each stack (or plane), it's 6 + 7 + 9 + 10 = 32 sprites. The number of stars close to you are less than those far away.
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