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Found 40 results

  1. So you've got a console (or perhaps several) that is/are RF-only but your TV of choice either doesn't have an RF input or it's otherwise not playing nicely with your console (I can relate to the latter, as my 2011 flat screen's RF input doesn't work with ANY consoles)? You're basically left with two options: perform a composite AV mod on your console OR get an RF demodulator, which converts the RF signal to composite. VCRs can act as demodulators, but they take up a decent amount of space. Devices actually marketed as RF demodulators tend to be *pricey* to the tune of $85-90 shipped.* I have found that 1980s/90s tv tuners and cable boxes make fantastic RF demodulators for video game consoles and they take up less space (and weigh less) than VCRs. I've got some spare "old school" tv tuners and cable boxes available. If you could use a device like this, shoot me a PM and we can discuss. I can assure you it'll be way less than $85-90 shipped! Thanks for the interest. *Don't accidentally buy the much more common (and cheaper) RF modulator, as that takes composite and converts it into RF!
  2. We're moving and downsizing, and I can't justify a dedicated gaming television any more This TV has great picture and solid Stereo sound. Only stopped using it as our regular TV when cable went fully digital. Fantastic TV for using with classic consoles, can connect multiple ones to it. Swivel stand, includes working (generic) remote. Inputs include S-Video, composite and cable, and also has outputs for recording or capture and cable pass-through. It's available for free! but pick up only in the Chicago-land area (Algonquin, IL 60102) as shipping costs would be prohibitive. It's the perfect showcase for your classic games!
  3. Morning all, I’m very close to getting my original Magnavox Odyssey console back to life – I’ve Frankenstein’d together a working power solution from an Atari 2600 after-market power adapter, with a travel adapter and a 3.5mm-to-2.5mm tip adapter. I also got a multicard from @Boojakascha and @Mikebloke (thanks guys ), and got a handle for it from Laserbear The only remaining problem is the video cable. I mentioned previously in this post that original Odyssey RF cables are rarely listed for standalone eBay sales, and looking for other Odyssey pong consoles (100, 200 etc) with Magnavox’s weird proprietary RF connector hasn’t brought me any luck either. So I think the most practical solution would be to solder a new video cable to the back of the console’s main board, and that this cable will probably need to be at least 7 feet long. Question 1 (RF or composite?): In this video (around the 54min20sec mark) That Tim Guy from YouTube, soldered video and ground directly to the console's motherboard but it's not clear (to me anyway) exactly what cable he's using - in the most recent comment at the top of his comments section, he refers to the cable as carrying a composite video signal. And I guess in theory it's possible that the console could maybe generate composite video on the board, and the original external RF box turned it back to RF? But I'm a little bit confused by this as 1) I had always assumed a stock 1972 Odyssey only outputted RF, 2) I thought you could need something like @Boojakascha's mod board to output composite, and 3) later in the video, he appears to de-modulate the signal through a VCR to get to the CRT, which seems to suggest that the console itself is outputting RF. It's not going to make a huge difference to my setup - the Odyssey doesn't output sound, so either way, I'm going to be running a single cable with either an RCA or a coax connector. I have a well-shielded 7 foot RF video coaxial cable from Blue Jeans Cables (Belden 1505A) that I'm not using at the moment - does anyone know if this would be a good cable to use? If so, I could remove one of the connectors, and solder it to the two points on the board, as per the video. Question 2 (Safety) The video from That Tim Guy is quite long, but the relevant part where he displays the cable solution is only from 52m50s to 54m40s I don't know very much about soldering, and this would be the first mod I've tried myself, but I'm a little bit apprehensive because it seems like this should be more complicated than what's presented in the video (which shows that it's as simple as soldering two wires). It seems to me that there should usually be a little more to it than this. If he is pulling the video signal in this way and the youtube video isn't skipping over anything, does anyone have any opinion on whether wiring it directly in this way is creating a circuit that is safe, and not going to damage the console?
  4. I'm gauging interest for two new AV adapters I'm making due out sometime in November. I'd like to have a good idea for how many to make before launching, so I'm posting here. Each product page has a simple email signup form. if you're interested, please signup! The first is a simple S-Video, Stereo Audio, Composite video adapter. This adapter will only need the AV socket and will run $25 (plus shipping). https://www.humblebazooka.com/product/jagsvc-atari-jaguar-s-video-composite-video-adapter/ The second is an All-In-One Analog adapter with RGB (9-pin socket, Genesis Model 2 style), Stereo Audio, Composite, and S-Video. This adapter will require both Jag sockets, DSP for power, but will benefit from being able to work with the Rad2X without external power. No definitive price yet but tentative at $35 (plus shipping). Those looking to use a JagNet, JagLink, JagLink II can always pick up a Jag2GEN or the S-Video adapter, since both only use the AV socket. This adapter will have its sync line brought down to Genesis Model 2 levels so that Genesis Model 2 SCART cables wired for CSYNC will work as intended. https://www.humblebazooka.com/product/jagaioa-atari-jaguar-all-in-one-analog/
  5. Morning all, poster from Ireland here, TLDR version: I am utterly clueless when it comes to AV hook-ups for the original Odyssey (and also when it comes power networking more generally). Would really appreciate if someone could review my Youtube/Wikipedia research, so I don't destroy a vintage console. The Console: I have an original Magnavox Odyssey (1972) that I picked up from another guy living in Ireland. I don't know much about Magnavox's distribution history (was the idea of PAL consoles even a thing back in 1972? ) but I'm assuming it's a standard NTSC unit that was imported, as there's a sticker on the bottom saying 120V/60Hz. The guy I bought it from just had it out on display, so there's no game power cord or antenna game switch with it, and I'm just trying to figure out what my best options are to power it on (without wearing out the battery compartment), and connecting it to a CRT. Power (Problem): In Ireland, we run the UK-style "Type G" electrical sockets, that output a standard supply of 230 volts AC (frequency 50Hz). I do have a step-down transformer but would prefer not to use it if possible, as it heats up very quickly. So I guess what I'm looking for is a) a modern power supply that can accept an input range of 100-240V, 50/60 HZ), b) that's well suited to the MA1 console, and c) that has those Irish/UK style pins. Like I said, I don't have one of the original power supplies that Magnavox manufactured for the Odyssey (I have been waiting for a few months for one to pop up on eBay with no joy...), but in an earlier thread linked below, @Clong80 notes that the specs on the original power supply are: INPUT 117 VAC 50/60HZ OUTPUT 9 volts 400ma 3.5mm mono headphone jack Tip positive for polarity Power (Solution?) So after a bit of online browsing, I found this website that sells modern power supply adapters for the Atari 2600. The specs on this unit are: 9V DC 1A Tip: 3.5mm jack (Centre tip positive) https://www.retrosales.com.au/collections/atari-power/products/accessory-power-supply-atari-2600-power-supply-adaptor-pack-9v So that will supply more current than the console needs; I know these numbers don't need to match exactly, but is the difference (9V, 1A vs 9V, 400ma) reasonable enough? I'd also need a standard travel adapter to convert the Australian plug to UK pin-style. Found this unit on Amazon ("This Adapter does not convert Voltage. Please make sure your device supports 220-240 Voltage.") Per Jakob Schuler on YouTube, it looks like the Magnavox Odyssey needs a 2.5mm tip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzXlJSa_VP4&t=6m22s), so I found this 3.5mm-to-2.5mm adapter on Amazon AV Hookup: I don't have one of the original antenna game switches with the hanging hooks, but my CRT doesn't accept NTSC RF anyway, so I don't think that would be the best option for me. However, it will accept NTSC through the composite ports. And I have an NTSC RF-to-composite conversion box, which works great either on its own or with composite switches. I've had no luck finding an original MA1 video cable like this one https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_06_2016/post-32949-0-81329000-1466475134.jpg On the TV end, the little RF adapters are obviously no problem to get from Amazon, but I understand that the other end which connects to the console is proprietary? (I'm not 100% sure about this). End of an entirely-too-long post Would be super grateful if anyone could advise me on 1) whether I've made any huge screw-ups in my choice of power accessories, and 2) how to find a video cable that will connect to the console Many thanks if you stuck through to the end of this post
  6. im having problems with getting a composite signal out of my intellivision i have this pal model so far i have tried both of the following methods with the rf module on and off with no luck i have seen another mod but this must be for a different motherboard and im at a loss of what to do now has any one got any more info on this subject
  7. so about a year ago i did a 2600 Jr av mod i found somewhere where you added 3 resistors to some pins on a chip and got composite video out... only problem is i tried adding a set of jacks instead of having a cable hang out... but now the video signal is gone. i spent like 3 hours trying to fix it, but all i get is scrolling white. i can sorta see some of the sprites, but i can't figure out what was going on, and ended up removing the added parts... but now the capacitor for sound lost a leg... so i need a new one of those also. anyone know of the mod i'm talking about, like i said i cant find it again, or at least another one that worked for you? also it does the same thing when RF is connected back.
  8. I'm attempting to mod my Sunnyvale Heavy Sixer with a composite video mod. I'm following the quick and dirty single transistor composite video amplifier mod, the schematic is attached. I've built it twice with two different transistors to rule out the possibility of bad parts. I've removed the RF modulator and I'm attaching this amp to the composite video pin that used to go the RF modulator. So far I've removed Q202, R213, and the large pink inductor near Q202. On the screen, I'm getting a dark black snow and the TV think's it's a PAL video signal (it's an NTSC Atari). I've also posted the composite video waveform I've captured with my scope. Without the mod, it's about 1.2V peak to peak and the horizontal blank looks like a fang rather than a rectangle. NewFile9.bmp NewFile11.bmp NewFile10.bmp With the mod, for some reason the signal becomes less pronounced, at about 200mV peak to peak. NewFile12.bmp This is what my main board looks like right now I should also note that on the secondary board of the Atari (the one with all the switches and the RF modulator), my RF modulator only has 3 pins. All the tutorials I've found online show an RF modulator with 5 pins. The 3 pins on mine are +5V, GND, and (I assume) composite video. Can anyone help me with this mod? Did I forget to remove a component from the main board or something?
  9. This is just an interest check. I have the following modified Atari 7800 system and 16 games. What would they be worth as one lot? Would anyone want to buy these as a lot? If so, how much would one be willing to pay for the following as a bundle? Suggestions? Comments? Asteroids Ballblazer Barnyard Blaster Centipede Dig Dug Donkey Kong Jr. F-18 Hornet Galaga Jinks Joust Karateka Meltdown Ms. Pac-man Robotron 2084 Tower Toppler Xevious I had this system modded for s-video and composite stereo audio. I have the 7800 gamepad. I have the joystick as well.
  10. mkiker2089

    found

    I'm considering finding a modified Atari for composite video. I use a Sears Arcade that I currently prefer but I don't have the skill to mod it and am unsure if I should let someone else try. How much do modified consoles cost usually and where would I find one? Who could modify mine?
  11. Hello Atari owners and modders. I'm trying to add an audio / composite output on my "new" atari 2600 (NTSC 4 switch), but I can't obtain any image... The console worked yesterday with RF output, but with no sound and a really weird/dirty b&w image. That's why I decided to add an A/V mod to permanently solve the problem. I think I choose the cheaper solution: 2 resistances and 1 transistor, similar to the easier-7800-composite-video-mod My circuit is the same as the solution proposed by brighty83 for a PAL version here (down of the page):http://retro.mmgn.co...ari-2600-AV-Mod I found the same cicuit on ebay, sellers detail the process on their installation guides for NTSC versions: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FAtari-2600-7800-Composite-Video-Mod-Upgrade-Kit-DIY-%2F300592126324 (see Installation Guides for atari 2600 4 switch) or http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.fr%2FAtari-2600-A-V-Composite-Video-Mod-Kit-NTSC-PAL-DIY-%2F181042624250%3Fpt%3DLH_DefaultDomain_0%26hash%3Ditem2a26fb36fa installation guide: http://www.filedropp...stallationguide (page 10 for NTSC 4 switch) Here is the circuit (sorry for the poor image quality): Video out and GND ---> Video RCA Audio out and GND ---> Audio RCA As mentionned on guides for NTSC 4 switch, I removed the RF box, Q202 and R209: The sound works well, but no images, it's so sad... I don't know what to do, and I'm dying about playing with it, in good conditions I mean. Some of you tried this mod? any idea ? Fujisama
  12. Links Forum Topic Notes Composite output Two versions: Single and dual transistor Removes RF box Design only, not a premade kit Simon says the two transistor version is better PCB is designed, Eagle files are available (contact him on the forums!) Two transistor PCB design using SMD parts from /u/albrugsch on Reddit
  13. We're moving and downsizing, and I can't justify a dedicated gaming television any more This TV has great picture and solid Stereo sound. Only stopped using it as our regular TV when cable went fully digital. Fantastic TV for using with classic consoles, can connect multiple ones to it. Swivel stand, includes working (generic) remote. Inputs include S-Video, composite and cable, and also has outputs for recording or capture and cable pass-through. Best offer $100 or up, pick up only in the Chicago-land area as shipping costs would be prohibitive. It's the perfect showcase for your classic games!
  14. Does it increase the value of an Intellivision if you composite mod it? Or do people prefer it kept in it's original condition? I just got a bunch of old Intellivision 1s from a second hand store and I'm wondering if composite modding them would increase or decrease their value.
  15. Hi. I have a monitor/tv that supports composite video which is what my cable is. Now in the back there is audio for composite but the video is in component. Where in the component inpute should I put the yellow video RCA?
  16. Hi Guys This is my first post here so please be gentle with me. I'm from the UK and I've recently bought a couple of Heavy Sixer's from the States. I have modded one of them with a composite video kit and it works great. However, I was wondering what else I would need to do to convert the system into a PAL unit? I've read about the TIA and how it differs so my questions are: a) Could I replace the system board only with a PAL light sixer, keeping the switch board and all other original components? Would this work? b) If I was to keep the system board and replace the TIA with a PAL unit, is there anything else I need to consider? The info on the internet I've found seems to be pretty vague. I read something about the crystal also needing replacing and maybe some other bits? Thanks in advance
  17. Atari 2600 $99 12 games, two joysticks, high quality s-video and RCA cables. games. $99 Games that are included with the system are Donkey Kong Jr Midnight Magic Mouse Trap Solaris Moon Patrol Ms. Pacman Centipede Galaxian Frogger Q*bert The Empire Strikes Back Popeye Games ($8 min) Games arranged by rarity (feel free to make any offers )
  18. Good day to you all! I've been pretty successful in modding old PAL 2600 Junior Consoles to Composite Output. But now I stumbled upon 1 (2 in fact) very stubborn one. I would be glad if you guys could help me troubleshoot this, and lend me some advice on how to find out what is broken. I already checked the usual stuff like power and power supply. It has 9v power and the led is also shining brightly red. The only problem is, there is no video output from it. It is the board revision F.1.1 (the other one is Rev F). There are no visible damaged components or capacitors so I am all out of ideas. I already made the Composite mod, to quickly check if there is any video output and the parts of the mod are all okay and working correctly, as I tested it on another console successfully. The strange thing is, R28 had a capacitor soldered onto the same pins as the resistor itself. I desoldered it and tried it again with no success. It looked like the one on C12 (yellow blob). So, to get to the point, is there anything I can check to find out what is wrong? I own a multimeter and all the tools necessary except for a logic analyzer or an oscilloscope. I would be endlessly glad if you could help me get to the root of this by any means, so I can gift another old console for Christmas. Thank you and best regards/great holidays. Fleder
  19. Is there a way to adjust the brightness of the video signal? After I installed a composite mod kit in my 2600, the brightness is so low that playing Space Invaders at the right color configuration is almost impossible. And yes, I know about the color potentiometer. I feel like there should be a better option than adjusting the brightness of my TV to unnaturally high levels.
  20. Sprybug recently requested that I capture some video footage of a homebrew he was working on, Super Mario Bros 2600, to verify that it worked properly on real hardware. I have a video capture device for my PC that is capable of capturing analog composite or S-Video. I sometimes use it to capture gameplay footage directly from the console. Because my Atari doesn't output composite video, it is necessary to use an old VCR as a middle man. The VCR I am using is busted (in other words, it chews up VHS tapes and spits them back out) but the audio/video portions of it work fine. So, I proceed to connect the coax cable from the Atari to the VCR, and from the VCR to the TV. Next, I connect the A/V cables from the VCR to the capture device. It is a Hauppauge brand USB dongle which supports analog NTSC and PAL video formats, both S-Video and Composite. I set up the game and begin recording in standard NTSC definition 720x480i. Here is the result: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HF25v7LL5m8 The video feed is roach quality and almost entirely grayscale. I have used this capture device to record from both retro and modern consoles like NES and GameCube, and the colors always display flawlessly. At first I thought that the composite video (yellow cable) was to blame, so I turned the system back on, and switched the TV set to "game" (A/V) mode, disconnect the RCA cable from the capture device and plug it into the TV set. Once again, the colors were crystal clear and vibrant on the TV, ruling out the possibility of a bad cable. Why does the Hauppauge capture device work with all of my other consoles but not Atari?
  21. I have been fortunate to get my hands on a Coleco Telstar Arcade Model 6071 (the triangular one). The RF modulator has deteriorated and I need to convert this system to composite video. This is where I need help. It looks like it would be pretty simple to do, but I'm a newbie and I don't completely understand the chips and pins and I don't want to risk destroying the console by experimenting. I'm attaching some pics for reference. There is a single coax cable connecting the board to the RF converter. I would assume that this cable is carrying all of the video information. Can I just take this signal and convert to composite? Does anyone have instructions or pictures that are specific to the Model 6071? I would greatly appreciate any assistance anyone could provide.
  22. Like so. My Atari 2600 had really bad RF out. Way 'snowier' than normal so I figured it was probably just the RF circuit so why not mod it. Results are striking. Well worth the effort (",) It uses a 'daughterboard' that someone local to me gave me to try out. You can see it in the second pic, sitting next to the original RF unit, just above where the original coax connected o the motherboard. My model had the coax permanently attached. I used an old cable I had lying around, but I have ordered an aftermarket gamecube s-video cable. This has a round cross section. It will be thicker than the original but will still look the part, and it means I don;t have to do any drilling
  23. So I picked up a "non-working" CV from eBay ($25, bundled with 2 OEM controllers, power supply, and Illusions). The also-bundled RCA output cable was severed and frayed at the end. Powered on, tested all 4 connections, voltage checked out. No picture with replacement RCA (using a RCA-to-coaxial adapter; love those things). Concluded it was the RF modulator, so I decided to give Ben Heck's composite mod a try (http://www.benheck.com/Games/Coleco/Video_Mod.htm). It worked!...with two unexpected results (both may be unrelated to the mod, I'm not sure). 1. There is about a five-second delay after the console powers on, after which the ColecoVision title screen has about a three-second fade-in. After fade-in, the picture and colors are as clear and perfect as composite can give me. I'm using a 32" Toshiba CRT; all other consoles using composite output don't have this picture delay. The micro-potentiometer in my mod is turned up all the way. I should also point out that I tested the mod's circuit, and all components--including the video out--were getting the proper voltage (~12V DC). Is this a normal/typical "side effect" of the Ben Heck mod? Or is there something wrong/off with one of the components? 2. I noticed these stray, square sprites in fixed positions in a few of my games. (See attached pics for reference.) I first noticed a couple of them in the rivets stage of Donkey Kong... and then I saw a couple on the level start screen of Illusions.... It was then that I inferred they might be appearing in the same places regardless of the game, and that they won't appear on a black/"null" background. And then I put in Zaxxon.... Eureka! There looks to be a vertical row of these sprites, evenly spaced, across the entire height of the screen. Has anyone seen/solved this issue before? Thank you each for your time and help with this one. Love ya, appreciate ya.
  24. This adapter was made to breakout the Atari Jaguar’s many video outputs to a more common and easily found set of cables the SNES Cables to allow you to play your classic games in better quality especially compared to the standard RF Audio/Video output. The RF output is very blurry and noisy out from the 90’s that is not a standard supported today. This adapter works great when paired with RGB Scart or HD Retrovision cables and run through a upscaler like the OSSC, RetroTink, or GBS! Features: Fits the back of the Jaguar without obstructing the Serial IO Link (DSP Port) Custom 3D enclosure designed by me Hand painted lettering on 3D enclosure to make it pop and match the Jaguar colors All SNES cables including official and 3rd party cables will work with this adapter Gold Plated contacts with a beveled edge for easy insertion of SNES Cables S-Video, Composite, RGB Scart, HD Retrovision Component cables all tested to work with the adapter Sync (C-Sync) has the proper filtering and attenuation to work with all upscalers Jaguar 9v regulated to 5v output for all proper RGB televisions and upscalers like the OSSC $25 USD + Shipping Purchase Here Demo video:
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