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Found 2 results

  1. I've recently got the bug to set up a wireless deal for an O2 and 2600. Based on my current household arrangement, it seemed like the most plausible way to get a quick fix when needed on the main TV. Though I think this has been well covered here, for anyone not already in the know, the rankings for reception are 1.) the no-name brand RGA 118 set-up, 2.) Game Mate, and 3.) the Atari branded ones {DEAD last}. Interestingly {or unsurprisingly}, all controllers are compatible with all transmitters. Anyway, my question today is in regards to the power supply. Would it be best to use the Atari power supply to ultimately power the O2 through the transmitter unit? Or should I use an O2 power supply into the transmitter unit? I currently have been using the Atari power supply with no major problems {I read here that many others do this}, but I have been noticing weird blippy/scritch-type sounds during test games of UFO. So, I thought it may be useful to double check to make sure. On the flip side, would there be any danger of frying the transmitter, etc. if I use/plug the O2 power into the transmitter? Thanks in advance for any thoughts or wisdom here &, though this is mainly a double check to make sure I'm not unknowingly frying something, I hope this isn't just an obvious case of "doesn't matter." Thank again everyone.
  2. Hello, I'm hoping this is the right section because I found this little interesting thing that I think is for TI computers, and I'd like a little info on it. Here's a picture... I am under the impression that this is an adapter for TI computers, and looking for a little backup on that. From what I can tell, it looks like all it does is pull some pins from each controller and route them to other pins in a different, combined configuration. Not owning a TI computer, I'm not sure it has any use to me. I might sell it, but with something this old and dirty who knows if it works. I'd appreciate any info on this thing so I can make a more educated decision, and I'd really like to know if there's any way to safely test this thing, see if it's still working. I had a thought to test it on an Atari 2600, but I wouldn't want to risk shorting anything unless I was certain it would be harmless.
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