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Found 127 results

  1. Today I've got something interesting to share in the 2600 controller department. There is now an Ebay adapter that you can obtain pretty cheaply (made by Atariage member, Ikonsgr) that gets a PC USB mouse/trackball working on the 2600. The catch is that: #1) only USB mice and trackballs that have PS/2 compatibility will work (and those that have PS/2 plugs need to be adapted to USB with a cheap little green PS/2 to USB adapter). #2) This only works with the digital games (not the paddle games). The really great news is that #1 can be remedied by buying an Aten KVM switch that converts USB (non-PS/2) mice and trackballs into PS/2 compatible devices. These are not cheap (over $50), but can open up possibilities of playing your 5200 with some quite interesting controllers, including the X-Arcade Tankstick which has a trackball (shown in the picture below) and this as well: https://www.ign.com/articles/2006/02/03/x-arcade-trackball-review The video below starts with using the 2600 to play Mines of Minos, Cosmic Swarm, Centipede, and Off the Wall, and then goes on to the 7800. I start the explanation about the X-Arcade Tankstick trackball around 16 and a half minutes in (showing it work with 7800 Centipede) so you'll probably want to not miss that part. Also there's 5200 compatibility with an additional adapter so that might interest you as well. Hope this is beneficial to some of you The products: Here's the link to the PC USB mouse/trackball to 9 pin Atari adapter (sometimes the Ebay product goes out of stock, and then gets restocked, so definitely keep checking back if it's not available): https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Mouse-Adapter-For-Atari-ST-Amiga-Amstrad-Commodore-9pin-DB9-Joystick-Port/274204936054 Here are two links for the PS/2 to USB mini green adapter (1st one may not be based in the U.S. & is cheaper): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UMX89XA#Ask https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GUV4UK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MOoDEb7Y5HZVV The Aten KVM Switch (Model CS82U) is necessary to get non-PS/2 mice and trackballs working on your Atari systems and is found here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QOBZXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ZgpDEbQPRJ199
  2. I recently bought a boxed 5200 controller, and upon inspection of the box, I noticed it had a very late copyright date of 1987. That got my wondering...was Atari still trying to sell 5200s long after they were discontinued? Or was this just a matter of having so much excess inventory after the crash of 1983 that they still packaged and sold their obsolete merchandise in hopes folks would buy it? I just think it's kind of weird to see this being sold during the days of Nintendo Entertainment Systems dominating the market, all while Atari puts all hope into the flailing 7800.
  3. The Atari Lynx 1-UP from: starforcepi.wordpress.com What’s the greatest handheld of the 1980s and 1990s? Why, the 16-bit arcade juggernaut named Atari Lynx, of course! I was a kid when the original Lynx 1 came out for us here in the old country in 1990, and was blown away. The Game Boy was a monochrome moron in comparison, and the Game Gear was all about converting Mega Drive and Master System games to pocket version – the Lynx, with its hardware-driven zooming and distortion of sprites, was going for Arcade experiences. BOOYA! Sadly, as with everthing Atari, this too turned to dust. BUT, fast-forward to 2018 and look at the love for this loveable giant! So much so, that McWill, a name you must’ve heard of by now, released one of the most impressive upgrades for a system I’ve ever seen – LCD replacement for the waning washed-out Lynx screen, with VGA output. The VGA output was a great addition, but the way I’ve seen people utilize it online seemed rather silly to me; you would have to use the Lynx as the controller when playing on the VGA. No sir, I don’t like it. So I decided to use the spacious room behind the screen to build an interface to: 1) securely place the Lynx on a stand; 2) output VGA; 3) connect a standard DB9 compatible controller (Mega Drive, Master System, Atari). It’s a tight squeeze, but the VGA, Controller port and Stand all fit neatly in the small 3x4cm interface window. This was an absolute pleasure to build, everything went smooth and simple, all the measurements were direct hits, hell even the stand only took me 10 minutes to design (8 hours to print, but hey). So let’s see it in full VGA action: It’s perhaps the best handheld to consolize: the GameGear has most games on Master System or Mega Drive, the GameBoy looks rather silly and clunky on a monitor, and TurboExpress is pointless, because it’s a 1-to-1 conversion of the actual console. I am glad I did it, I hope you will too, and stop placing those ugly connectors on the top of your handheld. Building the Lynx 1-UPI bought a pristine looking junked Lynx 1 for 20 euros – seemed a good place to start, let’s see if we can bring it alive! I replaced all the capacitors, power input socket, MOSFET, but finally it was the two 3906 transistors that were the issue. In order to do these replacements, you need a fine-point soldering iron and some tweezers, but everything on the board is quite spacious, so there’s no mistaking what’s what. This part is cheap: 7 dollars on console5.com. They have links and tutorials on that site, very complete. I also bought the McWill for 120 dollars, I was gonna do this mod regardless if this particular system was junked. So far everything together cost me ~150 dollars. After bringing the console back to live, it was time for McWillification! I followed the 1 page diagram that came with it, but it’s a little information dense, so I followed the following video instead: This worked better than I could have ever imagined, I know everyone says they’re gobsmacked when they see the difference, but it really is very true – I get why it’s such an expensive mod now. I was gonna leave it with that, honestly that’s just everything one could ever want from an upgrade… but, of course, me being the way I am, things escalated. You see, the mod came with the VGA socket, and I saw how people were placing these at the top of their handhelds, and you know what – it looked ugly. I want the facade of the handheld to be untouched. While I was adding the McWill mod I noticed the enormous space left behind the screen, which is when I had the idea: make the Lynx into a hybrid, with the connector ports at the back with a stand for console gaming via VGA, and all the ports hidden behing a minimal cover during handheld gaming. I first ordered DB9 sockets for a controller, and placed this together with the VGA socket on the inside of the battery cover. I made a little window in the battery cover, 3D printed a frame and cover for the ports, and there we have our interface. For the controller ports I had to solder 6 wires on the button pads of the Lynx PCB. Luckily most of these have soldered extension traces, so you can avoid blocking the normal button-to-pad press, but for two I had to solder directly onto the pad: be mindfull to be as flat as possible. Then we wire up the VGA socket to the pads on the McWill screen, this is shown in the accompanied diagram of the screen. We then place the DB9 and VGA socket in the space between the batteries, where the little light tube of the old screen sat (ignore the loose wires, they’re from the battery input, I cut them for ease of access). In the left picture, top connector is the VGA socket you can see running to the McWill screen. The lower connector go to the front of the PCB to the button pads. When assembled the VGA socket is lower, and DB9 is upper. Next to these I added screw connectors, so that I may fix the system to a stand, as shown in the next pictures: Unlike the Nintendo Snack Pack, this was a joy to make. I did it to unwind and relax, I didn’t want to build something from the ground up, but this just gave enough inspiration to just slightly 1-up it. The Lynx Stand and little VGA cover in particular really clean the mod up nicely, and makes this thing into a fully consolized system. I must admit though, I’ve been mostly playing it with the stand and controller via the McWill screen, not via VGA, but hey, it’s there. Finally, it all cost me a substantial 150 euro, but it was worth it. The Atari Lynx is a very strange and powerful handheld, spanning 7 years with 72 games, it’s still enjoying new homebrew releases every year, with a small but dedicated following. I’m very happy to be one of them. Upgrades: Full capacitor replacement MOSFET replacement 3906 Transistor replacement Power input socket replacement McWill Screen upgrade VGA output port DB9 input port Custom interface window & stand
  4. After selling well over 200 controllers I am working toward having these manufactured fully in china and packaged properly. This will take some time to sort through companies, in the mean time we are putting the store on hiatus eventually closing the etsy store due to fees. If I do manage to complete this task I will most likely find another store (or another way) of selling these controllers. Maybe amazon? Who know at this point. I can still have PCBs made if there is still enough interest. I'm also working on upgrading my printer that currently has 1200 hours on it we will sell 3D printed atari carts and label on AA. Just DM me and I can give you a quote! Thanks again for all of your interest!! The Atari 7800/2600 Controllers KITS ARE OUT OF STOCK! Fully assembled controllers OUT OF STOCK! PCBs & CUSTOM 3D PRINTED LABELS ARE OUT OF STOCK!! New updated instructions for kits here... Atari 7800 Controller Assembly Instructions (2).pdf Order here: http://www.itsallgeek3d.com Hello there AtariAgers! I wanted to make an official AA Marketplace post from the original forum post here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/272541-7800-controller-project/ Tired of the Pain-Lines or the bulky standard CX-40 joystick? Oh yeah, That’s right you are. Order now! Call today! Supplies are limited… no seriously, they are. This is the All-New V1.2 Atari 7800/2600/SMS NES style controller! Excellent! Two-Button Atari 7800 Action! Wow! Both buttons act as fire button with Atari 2600 games! Unbelievable! 3D Printed face label is a 2-Color print. Standard V1.2 Atari 7800/2600/SMS Controller is in a Silver/Black configuration. Although color can be customized for a fee, it is limited to the stock of filament colors I have. Which changes weekly. Keep in mind that the controller itself is black. The PCB is the new V1.2 can also be compatible with Sega Master System In theory. This is in BETA phase and has yet to be tested. There is no difference in the components of the SEGA/ATARI kits (SMS compatibility only available in kit form) It’s just a matter of swapping a wire or two during assembly of the kit. Three ways to buy! Full Brand New V1.2 Atari 7800/2600/SMS NES Style Black Controller New Redesigned V1.2 PCB w/DB9 Cable (Coming Soon!) Kit! New V1.2 PCB w/x2 620 ohm Resistors, DB9 Cable, Black NES Shell, D-Pad, Start/Select and Red ‘A’ and ‘B’ Buttons and all the rubber contacts. 3D printed label, you specify ‘ATARI’ or ‘SEGA’ Order Here: www.itsallgeek3d.com Also, the 7800 controller coupling will be in the store as well. For the AtariAgers that have a 3D printer here are the files... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2767791
  5. Well there it is. I've used it to replace the broken one in my controller. STL's attached. No Warranty! coleco controller thing.zip
  6. I’m having a weird issue with my Genesis model 2 where only controller port two doesn’t work. On one game specifically “Thomas the tank engine and friends”,I don’t get any controller action from either side. I’ve desoldered and soldered them back on a couple times but to no avail. Here are some picks hopefully someone can help me bring this puppy back to life.
  7. I have had 6 different inquires about a replacement front panel retention clip for the Vectrex controller Anyone want to make the 3D model file? Here is an album link with are some images of the part. Vectrex Front Panel Controller Retention clip ( https://photos.app.goo.gl/XZPCuRuZ2fi8LcK49 ) And a couple pics from that album.
  8. New Super Game Controllers for the ColecoVision and Super Game Module 2 Last year we announced that we were working with renowned designer Ted Mayer, best known for his work for Mattel (Intellivision II and III, He-Man toys) and the original Star Wars movie. Ted has been helping us with a number of designs, including the OMNI and accessories. One such accessory is the OMNI controller. Before OMNI is released, we plan to offer a ColecoVision compatible version of the OMNI controller, which we are calling the Super Game Controller. The Super Game Controller is fully compatible with the regular ColecoVision controller, including a numeric keypad, and adds two extra buttons, for SGM2 games. The Super Game Controller also allows the use of special game overlays, and we plan to offer a complete set of them for both legacy and new games. We hope to finally offer a complete, high-quality, and viable alternative for the dreadful Coleco controllers. We are now in the process of investigating the costs involved, but so far it looks promising. We have all the sources in place. That said, our goal is to find out if there is enough interest in this project to make it happen. Since we are still investigating costs, it is hard to give precise numbers for minimum orders and final price just yet, but we are estimating 400 units and $60 per controller. We would also prefer to sell them in packs of two controllers. Please keep in mind the price is a guesstimate at this point. It is our best interest to sell the controller at the lowest possible price point, at no profit (for many different reasons, one being this is also our OMNI controller). So how can you “pre-order” them (more like a wait-list at this point, since we don’t plan to charge people until the controllers are final and ready for manufacturing)? Please subscribe to the wait list here:: http://eepurl.com/gmrNpL I will keep this thread updated. UPDATE (4/1/2019): we have crossed the 200 controllers mark already. Thank you! I would say very very promising, so let's get this done! UPDATE (4/2/2019): we are past 270 controllers. Thank you again! The more orders we get, the lower the price goes. UPDATE (4/2/2019): we are past 300 controllers! Amazing. Definitively happening!
  9. I figured I’d try my hand at making a few different 5200 controllers, and as a Paddle Controller was never commercially available…I figured I’d start there. So unveiling my - 5200 S.S. Edition – VVG Paddle Controller: I found a few examples online of how others have done something similar, but as I wanted a “full-featured” & “stand-alone” 5200 handheld Paddle Controller, I wasn’t going to be able to start with any existing controller as a donor. So the base enclosure is a Hammond Mfg. black anodized, extruded aluminum enclosure, with aluminum end plates and a slide-out aluminum belly plate. Needless to say the enclosure is extremely robust, machines very well, and is only slightly larger than a normal CX-52. Normally the selection of a potentiometer for the control in a paddle controller is kind of a no-brainer. Pick one with the resistance value that you require, and that has the physical attributes that will allow for its installation in your project. But when researching paddle controllers others have made/modified for the 5200 and 2600, I had read complaints that some felt the controls were too sensitive for some games or not sensitive enough for others. So I chose a 2-Gang, 500k ohm linear potentiometer wired through a SPDT switch, so that I can switch between 500k ohm and 1M ohm at the push of a switch. The 500k ohm setting is less “touchy” and allows for finer movements and control, while the 1M ohm setting allows for super quick on-screen movements, like those necessary in the higher levels of Kaboom! The resistance selection switch is located on the lower end plate and is protected from accidental in-game switching, by a clear flip-cover. The switch to the right of the resistance selection switch is a SP3T (ON) – ON – (ON) paddle rocker switch, which is wired as the controller’s Up/Down controls. This allows me to maneuver around my AtariMax Ultimate SD Multi-Cart menu line by line for game selection. For the games I intend to use this with, I don’t know that I really need both 5200 buttons, but I figured as I was going all out, I might as well include both the Top & Bottom buttons… …and to make it ambidextrous, I installed them on both sides: The side buttons are Sanwa SDM-18 arcade test buttons. They feature concave plungers for a great vintage feel, and have a nice light/short press to make the contacts. Of course it wouldn’t be a “full-featured” & “stand-alone” 5200 controller if it didn’t have its own 12 button keypad and Start/Pause/Reset buttons, so I installed a 4x4 membrane keypad with a custom overlay modeled after the original CX-52 buttons. This allows for all game selections and auxiliary controls, without the need for a wye cable and/or a 2nd controller to be used in tandem. Lastly as I don’t normally sit within 2’ of my gaming consoles, and I don’t like using extension cables if I don’t have to, I bought and wired a 10’ 5200/Neo-Geo extension cable for the cord w/ molded plug end. The plug end has the longer/deeper cut required for the Neo-Geo, but I don’t have any issue with it on my 4-Port. I think the control knob itself has a good vintage look, and I like the aluminum disc in the center, but I think I’m going to keep looking for something different. The potentiometer has a standard ¼” shaft so there are lots of options on the market…I’ll see if I can find something I like any better. Additionally I’m going to make an inline 5200-to-2600 adapter cable so that I can use this on/with with Atari 2600/8-bit games, and I'll make a properly pinned wye cable so that I can plug (2) of these into (1) 2600/8-Bit controller port, for 2-player 2600/8-bit games. Enjoy!
  10. For sale is a Nintendo SNES super Famicom controller modded for Vectrex. Cleaned, but some scratches present due to the previous usage. Buttons are mapped as follows: Nintendo Vectrex Button A - red Fire 1 Button B - yellow Fire 2 Button X - blue Fire 3 Button Y - green Fire 4 Left shoulder b. Fire 3 Right shoulder b. Fire 4 For use only on Vectrex, will not work on other systems! This is a digital controller, which means that few games that require analog joystick (like Hyperchase) will not work properly. Price: 45€/$50/£38 + shipping 7€ Europe / $13 world I have 3 pieces, if you buy more than one, shipping is the same and I can make some discount too.
  11. I recognize I’m late to all of this, but is there anywhere/way to get a modded Jaguar controller for Colecovision? I recently got ahold of the SGM and a dozen or so games, love them! ...but, the standard and SAC don’t quite cut it with those games and I feel like the Jaguar controller is where Coleco would’ve went to. I’ve found a handful of pics online, but no solid contact. The below image is perfect, if it’s real. Thanks!
  12. Maybe someone can help me solve a few small problems I'm coming across. I'm following this schematic/description -- https://gamesx.com/controldata/psxcont/psxcont.htm#CIRCUIT I think I figured it out...mostly. He leaves a lot to be deciphered, lol. I'm drawing up a schematic in KiCAD right now, and I only have a few questions: 1. The DATA pin of the controller plug connects to SER OUT, correct? 2. Where does the COMMAND pin of the controller plug connect to? I must've re-read the entire page 15 times and still can't decipher where COMMAND goes. 3. Are the 74HC165 pins not associated with buttons (A1-A8, B1-B8, etc.) left with no connection? Or do they share a connection? COMMAND, maybe? Thanks in advance!
  13. I’m excited to show you the OdysseyNow Game Pack, the result of a lot of research and development at the Vibrant Media Lab that I direct in Pittsburgh. We’ve developed a brand new game card for the Odyssey (the first one not designed by the Magnavox team), a brand new accessory controller (the first created besides the original light rifle), and a set of three new games. This was all produced as part of the OdysseyNow project, which you can read more about in another AtariAge thread. Here’s a glimpse of the games… Tannhauser Gate In a remote wing of a remote galaxy, on the frontiers of cosmic knowledge, lies Tannhauser's Gate, a colossal directed energy beam fed by a spacio-temporal anomaly of seemingly ceaseless energy. On the other side of the Gate is The Expanse, one of the most mysterious and deadly regions of outer space yet discovered, a zone that seems to vacillate in its allegiance to the laws of the quantum to the laws of the galactic. Spacetime here seems to have a will of its own. Charybdis, a black hole, lies not far from the Gate, and is clearly related to it in some way. Crimson Maw, a mostly uninhabitable planet, nonetheless provides researchers in the area with an ample supply of both common and rare minerals. Unfortunately, the planet and its single natural satellite, “Odysseus,” are isolated from the gate by the massive parade of interstellar stone known as the Scyllan Corridor. Closer at hand, yet surprisingly more barren, is the planet Coronation. Because few minerals or supplies of interest can be found there, it is used mostly as a garbage dump. Such is the fate of even the most regal of mineral-poor planets. Multiple interstellar civilizations have sent researchers to the area, mainly in an attempt to understand the intergalactic wormhole that serves to connect this remote spot to the energy-rich Flywheel Galaxy via Quantum Refluctuation. While ostensibly a demilitarized zone, Tannhauser Gate is plagued by intense rivalry over the scientific knowledge that it provides to its sponsoring corporations, governments, and collectives. These researchers must uneasily share a moon base shielded by the Gate. To venture beyond its boundaries is to be bombarded with a relentless stream of dark particles. No shields can last for long. While an interstellar team of engineers has managed to harness the local energy flux to construct the Gate, its operation remains partially at the whim of the energy patterns that feed it, making the expanse beyond the Gate even more risky to explore. For this reason, the largest scientific collective to currently study the area has created a specialized, long-range scanning platform. Located safely behind Tannhauser Gate, it launches and receives C-beams capable of probing any form of matter. Their rivals, however, use replicant-manned spacecraft to explore outside of the Gate, directly. Take on the roles of the Scanner, Explorer, and Gate Keeper as you compete to complete your missions and disrupt your rivals. Will you be the one to discover the secret of Tannhauser Gate? Tannhauser Gate is a 3 player game that makes use of a newly designed game card (#13). This card includes an external Aux jack and a “Switch Controller” that attaches to it. The card generates the Tannhauser Gate. The switch controller opens and closes the gate. The Gate Keeper player draws a special Gate card at the beginning of each round, which contains a special gate pattern that must be followed. The Scanner player remains stationary throughout the round, but may send C-beams (represented by the Odyssey’s ball) through the gate to scan various objects in the expanse beyond. The Scanner draws Scan cards that provide specific assignments to carry out. Meanwhile, the Explorer must charge up their ship, activate their life support system, wait for the right moment, and zip out into the expanse, attempting to complete their missions (given on special Explore cards) and return to safety inside the gate before their ship is destroyed by the energy fields of the expanse. This is extremely risky, however, as misjudging the ever-changing rhythm of the gate could cause the ship to implode before it can reach safety! In addition to Game Card #13 and the Switch Controller, Tannhauser Gate makes use of the Damocles controller, the first Accessory controller for the Odyssey besides the light rifle. The Damocles controller plugs into the ACC port on the Odyssey. When Player 2 presses the large red button on its face, a countdown timer lights up and begins counting down. When it hits zero, it extinguishes your on-screen player spot. Its button also lights up red to remind you that you’re dead! A white “regen” button allows you to regenerate your ship when the time is right. In Tannhauser Gate, all three players are doing completely different tasks using completely different tools, yet all three interact in unexpected ways (the gate can bounce the Scanner’s C-Beams away as well as “lock out” the Explorer at a crucial moment, Scan missions can require the Scanner to scan the Explorer, and Explore missions sometimes require the Explorer to intercept C-Beams. The results ensure that no two games of Tannhauser Gate are the same! Fukushima Fukushima is the first-ever cooperative game for the Magnavox Odyssey. Two players are placed inside the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power plant and must work together to prevent the inevitable: a meltdown. Each player takes on a different role in the plant. Player 2 uses the Damocles controller to continually complete a Cooling Cycle, while also assisting Player 1 complete a progressively more difficult Maintenance Cycle, which involves directing the ball to specific points while also activating particular buttons at specific times. This would be enough of a challenge as it is, but a third player with a timer consults a Meltdown reference card and at the appointed times calls out various new disasters that the players must contend with. (Note: If you only have two players, you could also make a recording of the Meltdown Cycle and play that back during gameplay.) The game starts out easy, but gets progressively more difficult as you try to beat the clock to safely shut down the reactor before it fully melts down. Because the game has a delineated set of “levels,” you can easily track your progress. Your team can even compete against other teams for a high score (level achieved + time survived at the point of failure). No one here has been able to beat the game yet. Maybe you can? Fukushima is not only the first coop Odyssey game, but is also the first to utilize the “Wall adjust” control on the console itself. In this game, the wall represents the reactor’s containment barrier, which must sometimes be moved by the players to gain access. But be very careful: when the containment barrier is open, you must prevent the ball from entering the core or it will instantly melt down! Fukushima requires game card #13 and the Damocles controller. Super Cat and Mouse: Cheesy Castle At OdysseyNow, we are big fans of the underappreciated Cat and Mouse game on the Odyssey. We think that a fun concept and mechanic was undermined by substandard production design, and have decided to re-invent the game by giving it a proper setting: a medieval castle. Now, the mouse must collect cheese strewn about the castle by lazy humans, while avoiding the King’s fierce cat! As the King’s cat, of course, you must rid the castle of that peasant vermin.
  14. I have a Joystick controller that came from an Atari Flashback console (Flashback 2 I believe) that has worked fine until recently. All of a sudden the right direction stopped working. I took it apart and re-soldered the wire for the right direction, but nothing changed. At first it went up when I pressed it to the right, but that was only due to a sloppy soldering job (the solder was connecting the right and up directions). After fixing this, the problem was not fixed. Would it be a problem with the controller's connection to the console? If anyone has any advice I appreciate it.
  15. Just wanted to share here today that I've managed to find the best method for getting a mouse working on quite a few 5200 games- 1 and 2 button 5200 games. Here's what you need: 1) A Masterplay Clone that doesn't only make Atari joysticks compatible with the 5200 but has 2-button game compatibility designed to get Sega Genesis controllers working (mine was the 2016 model made by Atariage member, Atariguy1021) 2) A Commodore 64 mouse (model 1351) 3) a 9 pin splitter cable (1 female end to 2 male ends) and a Sega Genesis controller- this is only necessary if you're wanting to play the 2 button games. The setup is explained in my latest presentation which includes a lot of gameplay footage:
  16. Hey there guys and gals This holiday season I'm going to be getting an Analogue Super NT and I've been on a quest to get the best wired SNES controllers that I can get for it in brand new condition, and I've decided on going with the controllers from a Super Nintendo Classic Edition coupled with some adapters to interface them with original SNES controller ports. With that in mind I'm looking to buy either a new/sealed Super Nintendo Classic Edition system to snag the controllers from it, or just two new and unused controllers if anyone has an extra leftover from their Super Nintendo Classic Edition that they never got around to using. Price wise I'm looking to pay either $100 PayPal'd and shipped for a complete and new/sealed Super Nintendo Classic Edition or $25 shipped each for new condition Super Nintendo Classic Edition controllers. Thank you for taking the time to view my thread and just and just shoot me a PM if you have what I'm looking for and would like to sell!
  17. Greetings fellow forum members. I need your help and expertise in solving a problem. Recently i bought a 2600 vader console. Its in great shape and works perfectly. It came bundled with a pair of wireless cx-42 controllers, also in great shape, but they dont seem to work at all. The console powers with the receiver unit plugged, but theres no input from the controllers. I tested them with yars revenge and the yar just keeps going up and down while the unit is plugged. If i disconnect the controller cable the yar stops moving. Also tried with missile command and pole position and nothing happens. Turning the controllers on and off or pressing anything ,doesnt seem to affect the on screen action. I opened the receiver and the controllers and they seem to be fine. Nothing broken, burned or blown. Is there any other way to test if the receiver and the controllers are working? I could get a refund for the controllers, but i really want to keep them, they look so cool and i really love to see them working. Thanks in advance for reading!
  18. No matter what game I try or which controller I use, my 7800 will now think I am rapidly pressing both of the fire buttons. Is something wrong with the controller port? I'm hoping whatever it is, it will be an easy fix, but I dread that I might need to crack it open and operate on the circuit board.
  19. hey. really new to atari. i got mine today! its an original 2600 jr with 4 rom chips built in so as far as i know its kinda rare so thats cool. anyways my problem is, i bought the quick shot controller and it wont work. its really hard to get it in so im even unsure if it fits. could someone with the controller confirme it works? maybe an idea of whats going wrong here? any help will be much appreciated
  20. Hi, I have restarted my old company: Awesome Arcades. Its now selling Atari styled USB versions of the CX40 joysticks, Desktop arcade controls (So far I've only posted up the 7800 versions (Left & Right hand) and I need to update the photo's as they include built in paddle controls as well. I'll be posting on in the coming days the 2600 version, USB versions and some specialized desktop arcade controls like a dedicated Asteroids control panel for both 9 pin game/computer consoles and a USB version. I have a Missile Command one but I am awaiting the special buttons to make it arcade realistic. So, if you are interested, please stop by the site, sign up for an account and make a purchase, thanks. https://thejoystickshop.com Here are some of the products:
  21. Hello friends, I recently came into some new Super Famicom hardware, including two mystery controllers that I absolutely cannot find any information on. I suspect they are nothing special but I'd like to be sure. This forum seems like the perfect resource, full of knowledgeable folks who might be able to identify such things. Please see attached images. The controller is called the "Master Blaster" which really complicates getting a decent google search. I have two, non-functional and one functional but in need of silicon repair. I don't have the means to try and fix the non-functional one. Just wondering if some museum would benefit having these before I potentially get rid of em. Thanks!
  22. I've been on a bit of an arcade stick kick lately. I've got MAS sticks for Genesis and Neo, and consumer-grade sticks for almost everything else. I don't have anything good for PC at the moment, and I've been pricing sticks largely from china ($50 imports up to $200+ qanba units). (I was mostly thinking of going japanese style for this one) buuuuut, then I noticed x-arcade was having a sale. Yeah the company that puts out those godawful ugly 'tanksticks' that the mame guys go for. The solo's not as bad, and the price is right. Really, really right. $50+15 shipping right now (link). That's a 50% discount from regular. And even the regular price is on the low side for a solid arcade stick. So now I'm for the first time wondering just how good those sticks are. What kind of controls are in them? Brand, quality etc. Optical stick? Whose buttons? How are the switches? how hard is it to modify? What's the quality of the case? Is it up to the level I'm used to? MDF? Seriously, for $65, is this the bargain that it appears to be? Are there any other sticks I should be considering? Really, outside of needing those bottom two buttons replaced with hole covers, it looks pretty good:
  23. Kinsey collects Xbox 360 Controller variants and she brings some over to show us, including different colors, artwork, attachments and much more. Yes, it’s a THING & it’s pretty cool!
  24. My dad was the origonal creator and manufacturer of this controller. After a suit with the company who trademarked the word "astroblast" he ended up throwing about 10K of these away. I am looking for one (two if possible) in its origonal box. . I would love to have one for the front office of the company that is still going strong today. His birthday is this weekend and I think it would be funny and ironic to buy him one. http://s382.photobucket.com/user/Sr-Ferraz/media/Joysticks%20and%20Controllers/AtariStarplexVideoGameController2.jpg.html here is a picture of one
  25. Well, I've done some more experimenting and have managed to find a way to attach wired PS3 and Xbox 360 controllers to the 5200 to play the games that offer digital controls (as opposed to the analog-only games like Missile Command). This required a number of video game controller adapters/cables and a USB power supply. Here's how it's done: The adapters needed to get the wired PS3 controllers compatible with the Atari 5200 are as follows: 1) a 15 pin PC Gameport controller to 15 pin Atari 5200 adapter. These are obtained by contacting Atariage member, bohoki. He makes these for under $20 (shipped within the U.S.). 2) An adapter that converts Atari/Amiga/Sega controllers with a 9 pin connector to a 15 pin PC gameport. These are available on Ebay from "Ikonsgr74" and can be obtained for under $20 (shipped anywhere in the world). 3) A Tototek Joypad Convertor version MD (for Playstation controller compatibility on the Megadrive/Sega Genesis). These adapters are under $30. 4) A Brook Game Controller Super Convertor for adapting a PS3/PS4 controller to a PS2 console. These can be had for under $40. 5) a USB splitter cable ($12 or less). 6) a powersupply with a USB cord (5Volts) OR a USB Hub with connected power supply. To get the Xbox 360 controllers compatible with the 5200, you'll need one additional adapter. It is the Mayflash Universal Adapter for Xbox360/PS3/PS2/PC USB. These may be found at Amazon. Current price for these on Amazon is $30, but that is subject to change. Mayflash adapters tend to become scarce and go up in price. If any of you have interest in a video presentation on this (as well as a quick explanation of how to fix a potentiometer controller problem) here's the link for that:
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