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Found 145 results

  1. I'm just getting into the front-end RetroArch. I like the Shaders that can be applied to emulators that lack that capability. I'm having a hard time getting my Atari Paddle setup as a controller. I was able to set up the Atari Joystick. I'm using a 2600-daptor II. Has anyone had success with the paddle? Is there a way to setup more than one without have to re-configure as you go from joystick to paddle?
  2. Hi, I am (slowly 😀 ) rebuilding my PFM modded Geneve (384+192K) system and I really don´t know what controller/combination to use. Can/should I use the HFDC for the harddrive only plus adding a BwG (or CC9900) for the (2+HxC) floppy disk drives ? Makes that sense for an extra FDD-controller ? Maybe just to have it full or to prevent from any problems ? I have some controllers, so it is not the question to save up one. And I have no need for formats bigger than 720KB. I also want to add an HRD3000 Ramdisk, is it possible to boot from that, instead of the harddisk ? Does this make sense at all ? Or just install it without boot, just to have it ? Is there any use for the TripleTec-Card ? Speech maybe ? And use the CC9900 floppy controller instead of the BwG ? I also have the Myarc 512 KB RAM, but I think there is a special mod to be done, to use it in the Geneve ? And I will add a RS232, maybe I take the Myarc instead of the TI (?) I also have an ASCSI2-Controller, but I really do not want to use that because I want to keep my SNUG system complete. (if anyone wants to get rid off a WHT-SCSI, I am your man) What did I forget ? thx If needed, here is a picture: More detailed here: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/315250-ti-994a-show-your-modded-systems-here/?do=findComment&comment=4734298
  3. I received 3 free PS3 first party controllers from a freind last night. I don't want to put any additional strain on the power circuits of my lone remaining fat PS3 by trying to charge multiple controllers while gaming. Could I plug my PS3 controllers into any old USB socket and they will stop charging when full? Any reason I couldn't charge them off my Nintendo Switch USB ports, which will charge when the system is off? Thanks, trying to prolong the life of my first original early PS3, which has always worked great and I want to keep it that way.
  4. New Super Game Controllers for the ColecoVision and Super Game Module 2 Last year we announced that we were working with renowned designer Ted Mayer, best known for his work for Mattel (Intellivision II and III, He-Man toys) and the original Star Wars movie. Ted has been helping us with a number of designs, including the OMNI and accessories. One such accessory is the OMNI controller. Before OMNI is released, we plan to offer a ColecoVision compatible version of the OMNI controller, which we are calling the Super Game Controller. The Super Game Controller is fully compatible with the regular ColecoVision controller, including a numeric keypad, and adds two extra buttons, for SGM2 games. The Super Game Controller also allows the use of special game overlays, and we plan to offer a complete set of them for both legacy and new games. We hope to finally offer a complete, high-quality, and viable alternative for the dreadful Coleco controllers. We are now in the process of investigating the costs involved, but so far it looks promising. We have all the sources in place. That said, our goal is to find out if there is enough interest in this project to make it happen. Since we are still investigating costs, it is hard to give precise numbers for minimum orders and final price just yet, but we are estimating 400 units and $60 per controller. We would also prefer to sell them in packs of two controllers. Please keep in mind the price is a guesstimate at this point. It is our best interest to sell the controller at the lowest possible price point, at no profit (for many different reasons, one being this is also our OMNI controller). So how can you “pre-order” them (more like a wait-list at this point, since we don’t plan to charge people until the controllers are final and ready for manufacturing)? Please subscribe to the wait list here:: http://eepurl.com/gmrNpL I will keep this thread updated. UPDATE (4/1/2019): we have crossed the 200 controllers mark already. Thank you! I would say very very promising, so let's get this done! UPDATE (4/2/2019): we are past 270 controllers. Thank you again! The more orders we get, the lower the price goes. UPDATE (4/2/2019): we are past 300 controllers! Amazing. Definitively happening!
  5. Well there it is. I've used it to replace the broken one in my controller. STL's attached. No Warranty! coleco controller thing.zip
  6. Hey all! I’m a big fan of the nuon and like many others I’m looking for a controller so that I can finally play the games it has to offer! I’ve managed to acquire both remotes for my Samsung n-501 as well as my toshiba sd2300 units. However, it’s very difficult to enjoy playing the games with them. I’ve seen a few controllers on eBay but unfortunately (due to these trying times) I can not afford the exorbitant prices they are going for. Anyone have one for a reasonable price? thanks!
  7. I have done some brainstorming for a YouTube video that has to do with classic video game controllers that people pay over $100 for. In the end, I'm thinking people don't pay that kind of money for 2600 controllers... but could I be wrong? I know there's a Wico that has an extra large base that people look for. Do you think that one would fetch more than $100? Here's the link to the video if you're interested:
  8. Here are 4 2600 controller that I built and have up for sale at the moment. The black and white one and also the red/black/white one are 70$ shipped in the cont. USA. They are ready to rock with 10’ cables, plexiglass covers,siemitsu ps14g pushbuttons, and (black one) has Sanwa joystick, red has a zippyy stick. The white and black one and the green one are 60$ shipped USA. They have 6’cables. Also taking orders for custom builds right now as well if any of y’all happen to be interested in a custom stick. I’m not set up to build for 5200, Jaguar, or intellivision, but those several consoles aside, I can build out for most any retro consoles. Thanks for taking the time to check them out. Jeff Boss Level Controls
  9. While browsing ebay, I stumbled upon this controller https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Analog-Arcade-Controller-for-Atari-2600-Console-Video-Game-System/164292462985 It's basically two Atari paddles stuffed in metal box, but instead of knobs, the two potentiometers are connected to gimbals like in RC plane controller or in 5200 joystick. The two connectors are still Atari 9 pin. What system and software would require controller like this?
  10. The Atari Lynx 1-UP from: starforcepi.wordpress.com What’s the greatest handheld of the 1980s and 1990s? Why, the 16-bit arcade juggernaut named Atari Lynx, of course! I was a kid when the original Lynx 1 came out for us here in the old country in 1990, and was blown away. The Game Boy was a monochrome moron in comparison, and the Game Gear was all about converting Mega Drive and Master System games to pocket version – the Lynx, with its hardware-driven zooming and distortion of sprites, was going for Arcade experiences. BOOYA! Sadly, as with everthing Atari, this too turned to dust. BUT, fast-forward to 2018 and look at the love for this loveable giant! So much so, that McWill, a name you must’ve heard of by now, released one of the most impressive upgrades for a system I’ve ever seen – LCD replacement for the waning washed-out Lynx screen, with VGA output. The VGA output was a great addition, but the way I’ve seen people utilize it online seemed rather silly to me; you would have to use the Lynx as the controller when playing on the VGA. No sir, I don’t like it. So I decided to use the spacious room behind the screen to build an interface to: 1) securely place the Lynx on a stand; 2) output VGA; 3) connect a standard DB9 compatible controller (Mega Drive, Master System, Atari). It’s a tight squeeze, but the VGA, Controller port and Stand all fit neatly in the small 3x4cm interface window. This was an absolute pleasure to build, everything went smooth and simple, all the measurements were direct hits, hell even the stand only took me 10 minutes to design (8 hours to print, but hey). So let’s see it in full VGA action: It’s perhaps the best handheld to consolize: the GameGear has most games on Master System or Mega Drive, the GameBoy looks rather silly and clunky on a monitor, and TurboExpress is pointless, because it’s a 1-to-1 conversion of the actual console. I am glad I did it, I hope you will too, and stop placing those ugly connectors on the top of your handheld. Building the Lynx 1-UPI bought a pristine looking junked Lynx 1 for 20 euros – seemed a good place to start, let’s see if we can bring it alive! I replaced all the capacitors, power input socket, MOSFET, but finally it was the two 3906 transistors that were the issue. In order to do these replacements, you need a fine-point soldering iron and some tweezers, but everything on the board is quite spacious, so there’s no mistaking what’s what. This part is cheap: 7 dollars on console5.com. They have links and tutorials on that site, very complete. I also bought the McWill for 120 dollars, I was gonna do this mod regardless if this particular system was junked. So far everything together cost me ~150 dollars. After bringing the console back to live, it was time for McWillification! I followed the 1 page diagram that came with it, but it’s a little information dense, so I followed the following video instead: This worked better than I could have ever imagined, I know everyone says they’re gobsmacked when they see the difference, but it really is very true – I get why it’s such an expensive mod now. I was gonna leave it with that, honestly that’s just everything one could ever want from an upgrade… but, of course, me being the way I am, things escalated. You see, the mod came with the VGA socket, and I saw how people were placing these at the top of their handhelds, and you know what – it looked ugly. I want the facade of the handheld to be untouched. While I was adding the McWill mod I noticed the enormous space left behind the screen, which is when I had the idea: make the Lynx into a hybrid, with the connector ports at the back with a stand for console gaming via VGA, and all the ports hidden behing a minimal cover during handheld gaming. I first ordered DB9 sockets for a controller, and placed this together with the VGA socket on the inside of the battery cover. I made a little window in the battery cover, 3D printed a frame and cover for the ports, and there we have our interface. For the controller ports I had to solder 6 wires on the button pads of the Lynx PCB. Luckily most of these have soldered extension traces, so you can avoid blocking the normal button-to-pad press, but for two I had to solder directly onto the pad: be mindfull to be as flat as possible. Then we wire up the VGA socket to the pads on the McWill screen, this is shown in the accompanied diagram of the screen. We then place the DB9 and VGA socket in the space between the batteries, where the little light tube of the old screen sat (ignore the loose wires, they’re from the battery input, I cut them for ease of access). In the left picture, top connector is the VGA socket you can see running to the McWill screen. The lower connector go to the front of the PCB to the button pads. When assembled the VGA socket is lower, and DB9 is upper. Next to these I added screw connectors, so that I may fix the system to a stand, as shown in the next pictures: Unlike the Nintendo Snack Pack, this was a joy to make. I did it to unwind and relax, I didn’t want to build something from the ground up, but this just gave enough inspiration to just slightly 1-up it. The Lynx Stand and little VGA cover in particular really clean the mod up nicely, and makes this thing into a fully consolized system. I must admit though, I’ve been mostly playing it with the stand and controller via the McWill screen, not via VGA, but hey, it’s there. Finally, it all cost me a substantial 150 euro, but it was worth it. The Atari Lynx is a very strange and powerful handheld, spanning 7 years with 72 games, it’s still enjoying new homebrew releases every year, with a small but dedicated following. I’m very happy to be one of them. Upgrades: Full capacitor replacement MOSFET replacement 3906 Transistor replacement Power input socket replacement McWill Screen upgrade VGA output port DB9 input port Custom interface window & stand
  11. Sega Genesis adapter for Atari 2600/7800 (WIP) Button A : Fire (2600 / 7800 ) Button B : Top/Thrust (2600) / Left button (7800) Button C : Front/Trigger (2600) / Right button (7800)
  12. So a long while ago I had a bright idea on a "captain's chair" 'controller' for playing Star Raiders on the 8-bit / 5200. My thought is a joystick on one arm of the chair (e.g. on the right, for right-handed folks), with a thumb trigger on top, or index finger trigger on the front, so it can be controlled entirely with one hand. On the other side, there'd be a keypad controller (like used by the 2600 version of the game), offering the various toggle controls: front view (F) aft view (A) long range view (L) galactic map (G) attack computer (C) targeting computer (T) target selector (M) shields (S) hyperwarp (H) pause (P) That's 10 keys, so totally doable with a 12-button keyboard controller, connected to the second controller port. Finally, on that same side (e.g., left, for right-handed users) would be an analog throttle, like you see in a boat. Fully forward (towards the TV) would be "twin-ion engine" at full-speed (9), and fully back (toward the player) would be full-stop (0). This would be connected to the paddle input of controller port 1, alongside the main digital joystick input (if I'm reading things right, it looks like the POT stuff is used by keyboard controllers). Obviously, a hacked version of Star Raiders would be required for this to work (read paddle for engine control, read keyboard controller for other keyboard control). It'd be a pretty cool set-up, though, don't you think? Sadly, I don't have the skill to do either the hardware, or the ROM hacking. 😛
  13. I've recently decided I want to indulge my nostalgia and play Qix on Atari like I did as a kid. However, I've now realized I have no clue what I'm doing. I figured out what we used to have was an Atari 1200XL and that those are hard to find now. So here are my (doubtless way too basic for this forum) questions: 1) Does the 1200XL use the same controllers as the 800? (because the only 1200XL I found on ebay doesn't have controllers and the controllers I found only say they're for 800) 2) Does the 800 - or 800XL play Qix and Moon Patrol the same way the 1200XL did? If so am I better off just getting an 800 since those seem to be more available? 3) Any other advice or things I should know? Thanks
  14. Samsung Nuon SNS-2000 controller.
  15. Here's the newest addition to the MiniVex controller lineup for Vectrex. The MiniVex V features a steel case and an adjustable rapid fire feature for button #4, like the other models do. This one's got a LH mounted spinner control and a RH mounted analog paddle control. The spinner can be used with some homebrew games and an assortment of original Vectrex titles that have been modified for spinner use. It also doubles as an extra fire button, just push down on it. The paddle control can be used with the game "Hyperchase" in its original, unmodified Vectrex cartridge format, as well as Vectrace, Spike's Water Balloons, Vaboom, and a few other homebrew titles. There's also a switch that selects the X or Y axis for the paddle, which allows you to navigate menus on multi-carts AND crank up the thrusters on Moon Lander. All in all, a versatile package. Need additional info? Please post here or PM me. Larry
  16. I have a SNS-2000 controller and I want to sell it, I can't find info on it anywhere. How much would it be worth?
  17. If any of you have wondered about whether the Hyperkin Ranger could be modded into a two button controller for Atari 7800 compatibility- well, the day has come for that to become a reality. I came up with a way to pretty easily accomplish this, and I did it with a Nintendo Switch Joycon connected to the Ranger. It was done without using adhesives or drilling holes in controllers, so you can rest-assured there won't be any damage done to your favorite controllers. My tutorial video and review of the Ranger with footage of Dark Cavern and Kaboom! is found here, so check it out:
  18. For those of you with a Wii or Gamecube, I have unique controller options that enable you to have an authentic flight yoke to play Star Wars Arcade which is a bonus game in the Gamecube title, Star Wars Rebel Strike: Rogue Squadron III. With this flight yoke, you can also play many Gamecube flight games- and there's even a way to go wireless with the flight yoke. If you are a fan of Star Wars, this can really up the fun in these games. Check it out:
  19. Hey everyone, This is a bit cheeky of me, as I already posted this in the Hardware section, apologies for this. I'm a bit stuck with adding an additional fire button to this controller, I've seen pin diagrams for 7800 controllers, but it looks like everything is already in use here. There looks to be an analogue to digital conversion too. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks 😀
  20. Maybe someone can help me solve a few small problems I'm coming across. I'm following this schematic/description -- https://gamesx.com/controldata/psxcont/psxcont.htm#CIRCUIT I think I figured it out...mostly. He leaves a lot to be deciphered, lol. I'm drawing up a schematic in KiCAD right now, and I only have a few questions: 1. The DATA pin of the controller plug connects to SER OUT, correct? 2. Where does the COMMAND pin of the controller plug connect to? I must've re-read the entire page 15 times and still can't decipher where COMMAND goes. 3. Are the 74HC165 pins not associated with buttons (A1-A8, B1-B8, etc.) left with no connection? Or do they share a connection? COMMAND, maybe? Thanks in advance!
  21. I figured I’d try my hand at making a few different 5200 controllers, and as a Paddle Controller was never commercially available…I figured I’d start there. So unveiling my - 5200 S.S. Edition – VVG Paddle Controller: I found a few examples online of how others have done something similar, but as I wanted a “full-featured” & “stand-alone” 5200 handheld Paddle Controller, I wasn’t going to be able to start with any existing controller as a donor. So the base enclosure is a Hammond Mfg. black anodized, extruded aluminum enclosure, with aluminum end plates and a slide-out aluminum belly plate. Needless to say the enclosure is extremely robust, machines very well, and is only slightly larger than a normal CX-52. Normally the selection of a potentiometer for the control in a paddle controller is kind of a no-brainer. Pick one with the resistance value that you require, and that has the physical attributes that will allow for its installation in your project. But when researching paddle controllers others have made/modified for the 5200 and 2600, I had read complaints that some felt the controls were too sensitive for some games or not sensitive enough for others. So I chose a 2-Gang, 500k ohm linear potentiometer wired through a SPDT switch, so that I can switch between 500k ohm and 1M ohm at the push of a switch. The 500k ohm setting is less “touchy” and allows for finer movements and control, while the 1M ohm setting allows for super quick on-screen movements, like those necessary in the higher levels of Kaboom! The resistance selection switch is located on the lower end plate and is protected from accidental in-game switching, by a clear flip-cover. The switch to the right of the resistance selection switch is a SP3T (ON) – ON – (ON) paddle rocker switch, which is wired as the controller’s Up/Down controls. This allows me to maneuver around my AtariMax Ultimate SD Multi-Cart menu line by line for game selection. For the games I intend to use this with, I don’t know that I really need both 5200 buttons, but I figured as I was going all out, I might as well include both the Top & Bottom buttons… …and to make it ambidextrous, I installed them on both sides: The side buttons are Sanwa SDM-18 arcade test buttons. They feature concave plungers for a great vintage feel, and have a nice light/short press to make the contacts. Of course it wouldn’t be a “full-featured” & “stand-alone” 5200 controller if it didn’t have its own 12 button keypad and Start/Pause/Reset buttons, so I installed a 4x4 membrane keypad with a custom overlay modeled after the original CX-52 buttons. This allows for all game selections and auxiliary controls, without the need for a wye cable and/or a 2nd controller to be used in tandem. Lastly as I don’t normally sit within 2’ of my gaming consoles, and I don’t like using extension cables if I don’t have to, I bought and wired a 10’ 5200/Neo-Geo extension cable for the cord w/ molded plug end. The plug end has the longer/deeper cut required for the Neo-Geo, but I don’t have any issue with it on my 4-Port. I think the control knob itself has a good vintage look, and I like the aluminum disc in the center, but I think I’m going to keep looking for something different. The potentiometer has a standard ¼” shaft so there are lots of options on the market…I’ll see if I can find something I like any better. Additionally I’m going to make an inline 5200-to-2600 adapter cable so that I can use this on/with with Atari 2600/8-bit games, and I'll make a properly pinned wye cable so that I can plug (2) of these into (1) 2600/8-Bit controller port, for 2-player 2600/8-bit games. Enjoy!
  22. nicknickuk

    IMG 0727(1)

    From the album: Raspberry Pi Custom Atari case designs

    Atari VCS inspired controller used for my raspberry Pi which is a 3rd party PS3 Bluetooth controller.
  23. I've been on a bit of an arcade stick kick lately. I've got MAS sticks for Genesis and Neo, and consumer-grade sticks for almost everything else. I don't have anything good for PC at the moment, and I've been pricing sticks largely from china ($50 imports up to $200+ qanba units). (I was mostly thinking of going japanese style for this one) buuuuut, then I noticed x-arcade was having a sale. Yeah the company that puts out those godawful ugly 'tanksticks' that the mame guys go for. The solo's not as bad, and the price is right. Really, really right. $50+15 shipping right now (link). That's a 50% discount from regular. And even the regular price is on the low side for a solid arcade stick. So now I'm for the first time wondering just how good those sticks are. What kind of controls are in them? Brand, quality etc. Optical stick? Whose buttons? How are the switches? how hard is it to modify? What's the quality of the case? Is it up to the level I'm used to? MDF? Seriously, for $65, is this the bargain that it appears to be? Are there any other sticks I should be considering? Really, outside of needing those bottom two buttons replaced with hole covers, it looks pretty good:
  24. Kinsey collects Xbox 360 Controller variants and she brings some over to show us, including different colors, artwork, attachments and much more. Yes, it’s a THING & it’s pretty cool!
  25. Hi. I have a question about the Atari 5200 games library. Are there any game that utilize more than 2 controller at once, using 3 or 4 of the ports on an original 4 port system? If so does anyone have a list of them. Lastly, do any homebrew games utilize this feature? Thanks
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