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Blogs

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  • I created this second blog on accident and now I can't figure out how to delete it.
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  • Old School Gamer Review
  • The Mario Blog
  • GideonsDad's Blog
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  • Horst's Blog
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  • Blogpocalypse
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  • creeping insanity
  • Sonic R's Blog
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  • Syntax Terror Games
  • NCN's Blog
  • A Wandering Shadow's Travels
  • Arjak's Blog
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  • Kiwi's Blog
  • Stephen's A8 Blog
  • Zero One
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  • Robert Hurst
  • This Is Reality Control
  • Animan's Blog Of Unusual Objectionalities
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  • The 7800 blog
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  • Robert @ AtariAge
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  • That's what she said.
  • Hitachi's Blog
  • The (hopefully) weekly rant
  • Goochman's Marketplace Blog
  • Marc Oberhäuser's Blog
  • Masquane's AtariAge Blog
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  • Bri's House
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  • raskar42
  • The P3 Studio
  • Bydo's Blog
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  • Chuplayer's Blog
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  • POKEY experiments
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  • Brain droppings...
  • Sandra's blog
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  • Maybe its a Terrible Tragedy
  • Guru Meditation
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  • The 12 Turn Program: Board Game Addiction and You
  • Tezz's projects blog
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  • Partyhaus
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  • ¡Viva Atari!
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  • The hunt for the PAL Heavy Sixer
  • Liduario's Blog
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  • HSC Experience
  • people to fix atari Blog
  • Gronka's Blog
  • Joey Z's Atari Projects
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  • Lynx Links
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  • CorBlog
  • My Ideas/Rants
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  • jamvans game hunting blog
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  • wibblebibble's Basic Blog
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  • The Golden Age Arcade Historian
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  • Cool 'n' Crispy: The Blog of Iceberg_Lettuce
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  • Bergum's Thoughts Blog
  • marminer's Blog
  • BubsyFan101 n CO's Pile Of Game Picks
  • I like to rant.
  • Cleaning up my 2600
  • AnimaInCorpore's Blog
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  • Coleco Pacman Simulator (CPMS)
  • ianoid's Blog
  • HLO projects
  • Retro Junky Garage
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  • Synthpop Universe
  • Atari 5200 Joystick Controllers
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  • Make Atari 2600 games w/o programming!
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  • Gernots A500 game reviews
  • Byte's Blog
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  • My blog of stuff and things
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  • GG's Game Dev, Homebrew Review, Etc. Log
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  1. New Vectrex Controller Replacement Printed Circuit Board (PCB). Designed as a direct replacement board for an exact fit in the Vectrex controller. For maintenance and/or or repair of your GCE / MB / Bandai バンダイ Vectrex 光速船 Kousokusen Controller. Price is $10.00 (USD) each, Plus Shipping. Available from Jason Kopp (aka Arcade Jason). Send him a message for total costs. Reach out to Jason via his email address: KoppJason83@yahoo.com https://www.youtube.com/c/ArcadeJason/about Vectrex Controller Replacement Printed Circuit Board (PCB).
  2. New Want, Now Guides Top Secret Super NES Game Boy Super Game Boy I would like get it in a bundle
  3. I'm starting this new thread for my Intellivision Flashback controller adapter cables. Yes, I've decided to start making these again after a long hiatus, since it seems a lot of folks missed out the first time around. As of writing this (September 3, 2021) I'm not quite ready to start, since I need to order more supplies. But things should get underway soon - I'd guess by the end of the month. For now the main purpose of this thread is to have a place to keep track of interest, and to let folks on Atari Age know the adapter cables are once again available. Please post here if you want to order some so I can get a rough idea how many I'll be making going forward. I have numerous old PMs and emails that were sent to the podcast email account the past couple years from people who wanted the adapters. At this point I don't know if those folks are still interested or not. I plan to follow up with as many as I can - and I'm going to try to keep it in the order the requests came in - but it's likely I may miss some people, so a post here would be very helpful. The price of the adapters is a little more than last time, due to supply cost increases (in particular, the parts needed for the Intellivision 1 adapters) and a little something for my time. This is a hobby after all, but I'm trying to keep the prices as reasonable as I can. Making the adapters is a time consuming process, especially the ones for the original console. Intellivision 1 Flashback Controller Adapters (for the original console, INTV, Radio Shack etc. variations with the "hard wired" controllers) These allow you to use Flashback controllers on your original model Intellivision, INTV System III, INTV Super Pro System, RCA Tandyvision, GTE/Sylvania Intellivision; basically any version of the Intellivision console that had the “hard wired” controllers. These are approximately 18 inches in length, with a male DB9-pin plug on one end, and a 9-pin ‘motherboard/SIPP’ connector on the other. To install these, you need to remove 6 screws from the bottom of your Intellivision console, take the top cover off, slide the original controller connectors off the motherboard pins, and slide the adapter cable connectors onto those same motherboard pins (the adapter wires are routed out the same holes as the original controller wires). Put the top back on, and you’re done. It takes about 20 minutes from start to finish. You can then plug in your Flashback controllers with ease. Here's a YouTube video from Grey Defender that shows the process in detail. The cost is $34/pair + shipping. These are only sold in pairs. Intellivision II / Sears Flashback Controller Adapters (for the Intellivision II and Sears consoles with the removable db9 connector controllers) These allow you to use Flashback controllers on your Intellivision II or Sears Super Video Arcade (the consoles that had the easily removable ‘DB9 plug’ connectors on the controllers). These are 6 foot extension/conversion cables, with a male DB9-pin plug on one end, and a female DB9-pin plug on the other. The cost is $17 per cable, or $32/pair + shipping. Please send me a PM here on Atari Age if you are interested in any of these cables. Include your shipping / address information, and preferably an email address, and I will get back to you with a total. Payment is via PayPal or Venmo. Credit cards (processed through my business - White Flag Computing) are also an option if you don't use PayPal or Venmo. You can also email adapters@intellivisionaries.com or flashback@intellivisionaries.com instead of sending a PM if you prefer. I won't be accepting payments until I get the supplies and start making the cables. Shipping is not included in the above prices. USA orders will be shipped via USPS Priority Mail. I can also ship First Class Mail in a padded mailer for a little bit less, but you will have to pay for the mailer. With some exceptions, International orders will be shipped via USPS International First Class (padded mailer - price varies depending on weight and destination). Original / previous thread, for reference: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/237113-intellivision-flashback-controller-adapters-round-2/page/4/?tab=comments#comment-4897648
  4. I am selling this joystick made by me. Laser cut and engraved wooden case. Possibility of customizations. Possibility to configure the two buttons with the same function or with separate functions where supported. The joystick is very precise and has microswitches on both the lever and the two buttons. DB9 connector obviously. They are for sale on eBay, I ship from Italy. I'll post the link for those interested: https://www.ebay.it/itm/166527055748
  5. Unusual product in an unusual store Nice price!
  6. My apologies if this has been answered before, but I've searched the forum and I haven't found the exact answer I'm looking for. I've seen and read online that some gamers are using the original Sega Genesis 6-button controllers with their Atari 7800 systems. My two questions are: 1. Will the original Sega Genesis 6-button controllers work with the light sixer version of the 2600, and if so, will they work with all games from all manufacturers? 2. Will the newer Sega Genesis 6-button controllers made by Retro-Bit work with the light sixer version of the 2600, and if so, will they work with all games from all manufacturers? Any other info or experience you may have on this topic would be welcome. Many thanks in advance for your time and expertise!
  7. Good afternoon Atari friends hope everyone had a great turkey day! Several months ago I delved into the Atari 7800 world and I love this thing. Except for the Pain-Line controllers, I bought 4 of them, One almost new. None were very responsive and very hard to use. I think everyone could go on and on about these controllers and very few people actually like them. I love the "look" and that's about it. Thus, begins my journey... First I did the simple NES controller MOD. LOVE IT. You don't have to "think" about using the controller, It just feels natural. I figured, what the hell, I'll get some CX78s from best... $40!? Eek but worth it for the hardcore Atari collector. also, do not look on ebay for these things unless you want to pay $70+... insane. New old stock, they are nice but button placement is strange and the D-pad does not feel as natural as the NES Controller. I still went back to the NES controller... I found "new" SNES aftermarket controllers in my controller bin and thought, why not, and modded it to work with the 7800. utilizing every button. L & R bumpers all 4 buttons and start and select. The left bumper and the left buttons and select are all FIRE1 and the rest are FIRE2. This was a nightmare to mod, took too much time as I was also trying to wrap my head around the 7800 controller circuit. It works great, but too many buttons. Almost too confusing to play with. So I decided to make my own controller. Osgeld was kind enough to offer some guidance AND his controller plans, which were just to complicated for me to reproduce. I set off on learning some PCB creation software. I'm a hardware guy, so learning new software is a pain. 3 programs later I landed on a freeish program called Diptrace. I designed the PCB within this program and boy was I in for a treat. I have a hobbyists knowledge of circuits and CAD programs, in layman I knew nothing. I had to create this layout twice the first being a cleaner design but the files did not save properly. I rushed to get the second design printed and almost screwed up royally. SOLDER MASK GOES WHERE YOU DON'T WANT SOLDER MASK SOLDER MASK GOES WHERE YOU DON'T WANT SOLDER MASK SOLDER MASK GOES WHERE YOU DON'T WANT SOLDER MASK SOLDER MASK GOES WHERE YOU DON'T WANT SOLDER MASK so when you layout solder mask you have to put it in areas you do not want solder mask not where you WANT the solder mask... are you following? I didn't follow. I put it where I WANTED mask. This would have covered all my button contacts with solder mask making some expensive beer coasters. In the PCB world that is wrong, but I caught this RIGHT before I sent them In to print. Its all an acceptable learning process, this is an ultra simple PCB design and makes me appreciate real creators like Bryan and his UAV and Curt with the XM. After weeks of back a fouth with chinese suppliers I found a resonable place for black NES controller shells. I ordered the DB9 cables and PCBs and I'm off with a rolling start. I still would like to print custom labels for the controller but it was not cost effective ATM. Maybe If I ordered large bulk (100+) I could get costs down. This design is from a forum member as well but I cannot for the life of me find that post and would love to give credit where its due, but I also am not using this on this run. But this first run is just the prototype phase, which will always be more expensive. R&D is never cheap! What do ya'll think? Am I on the right path, or should I stop while I'm ahead?
  8. Hi! I was told I should post this here in the Atari 5200 forum along with the Marketplace forum. I made a batch of 30 Masterplay Interface clones for fun and practice with KiCad. They are based on the schematic at Dr. Scott M. Baker's website. I won't be making any more. They let you use Genesis controllers to play most of the Atari 5200 library. My own schematic and BOM are posted below. I'm selling them for $60 + shipping. This includes the Masterplay Interface clone, the custom keypad, and the extension cable for the clone. Satisfaction guaranteed. Returns accepted within 14 days. A few notes: - The acrylic top of the clone can be removed with 1.5mm hex bit to access jumpers. Rotate jumpers 90° to change button mapping. - Calibrate x and y axes with a small screw driver through the small holes on top. Games that can't be played with the Masterplay Interface clone: - Missile Command - Super Breakout - Kaboom! - Centipede - QIX works only after cycling the d-pad Thanks for looking! 97914581_PXL_20230204_215846042_TS2.mp4 1134455718_PXL_20230204_220001888_TS3.mp4
  9. New Super Game Controllers for the ColecoVision and Super Game Module 2 Last year we announced that we were working with renowned designer Ted Mayer, best known for his work for Mattel (Intellivision II and III, He-Man toys) and the original Star Wars movie. Ted has been helping us with a number of designs, including the OMNI and accessories. One such accessory is the OMNI controller. Before OMNI is released, we plan to offer a ColecoVision compatible version of the OMNI controller, which we are calling the Super Game Controller. The Super Game Controller is fully compatible with the regular ColecoVision controller, including a numeric keypad, and adds two extra buttons, for SGM2 games. The Super Game Controller also allows the use of special game overlays, and we plan to offer a complete set of them for both legacy and new games. We hope to finally offer a complete, high-quality, and viable alternative for the dreadful Coleco controllers. We are now in the process of investigating the costs involved, but so far it looks promising. We have all the sources in place. That said, our goal is to find out if there is enough interest in this project to make it happen. Since we are still investigating costs, it is hard to give precise numbers for minimum orders and final price just yet, but we are estimating 400 units and $60 per controller. We would also prefer to sell them in packs of two controllers. Please keep in mind the price is a guesstimate at this point. It is our best interest to sell the controller at the lowest possible price point, at no profit (for many different reasons, one being this is also our OMNI controller). So how can you “pre-order” them (more like a wait-list at this point, since we don’t plan to charge people until the controllers are final and ready for manufacturing)? Please subscribe to the wait list here:: http://eepurl.com/gmrNpL I will keep this thread updated. UPDATE (4/1/2019): we have crossed the 200 controllers mark already. Thank you! I would say very very promising, so let's get this done! UPDATE (4/2/2019): we are past 270 controllers. Thank you again! The more orders we get, the lower the price goes. UPDATE (4/2/2019): we are past 300 controllers! Amazing. Definitively happening!
  10. I've got a Dualshock 2 that belonged to my mom way back in the day in my possession. Unfortunately, upon plugging it into my console I realized that the buttons were unresponsive and simply do not work with the exception of Start and Select. The board inside is definitely still working in one form or another, as the analog LED is on when I plug the controller in. But none of the face, trigger, or bumper buttons appear to be working and neither do the analog sticks or D-Pad. I'll post a picture of the insides and the board itself when I get home, but from my recollection everything looks absolutely flawless. I compared the board to a confirmed working controller and wasn't able to discern any physical wear that could indicate circuit failure. I was hoping someone could share some ideas on what I could do to fix it, thanks! Here's an online photo I found of the controller revision I have.
  11. I am very excited to say that after almost 2 years of tinkering, my NeoColeco Adapter is nearing ready for primetime. The adapter will use the BlueRetro interphase, and allow Colecovision players the ability to use modern controllers from Playstation, Xbox, and Nintendo. The prototype board have been printed and are on their way. I am hoping to start testing next week and if everything goes well start building them for sale next month. The interphase will have four custom mappable number buttons on top of the normal fire and arm.
  12. Hi folks, I got one of the first VCS 800 at the Indigogo campaign and I am very happy with it😍! But since I always like to have at least two of each kind of device in my collection, I have been looking for a cheap second device for a long time. Since ATARI unfortunately (still) doesn't sell the VCS 800 in the EU / Germany, outside the USA you always have to rely on an expensive import with expensive shipping costs and tax fees. The costs start with good luck at about 400$ then often rise to 600$ and more 😟. Now I recently had the fortune to find a private sale in Germany on Ebay. We negotiated a bit and in the end we agreed on a total of 300€. In the package was the VS 800, then the two ATARI controllers and additionally something very special! An XBOX controller in ATARI VCS design😲😎! Same design and colors as the original, only that here both joysticks are in red (original only the left one) and the Pad with direction keys instead of round. The controller even has a VCS logo in the middle😎! Some pictures attached... I have researched, but so far not found the source of the controller. Maybe it is custom made" but it looks very cool. Does anyone know if this controller was officially available somewhere? Cheers, andY
  13. Reposting a recent update from Sean Kelly via FB group "Vectrex Fans Unite!" about new and existing products on his site. Sean's products are top quality. "Sean Kelly News on my Vectrex website. Stephen Gros designed a really cool Vecaves overlay and allowed me to print it in the same fashion as all of my other overlays - the same size, shape and thickness as the originals. It is now available on my website. Also, I have finally gone through the first batch of Vectrex controller cables and consequently covered the costs of the molds required to make the cable. As a result, I have dropped the cost of the cable by 50% to $10 each with discounts still available for larger quantities. www.vectrexmulti.com" Vectrex Overlays: http://www.vectrexmulti.com/order2.html#!/Vectrex-Overlays/c/42142833 Vectrex Repair Parts: http://www.vectrexmulti.com/order2.html#!/Vectrex-Repair-Parts/c/129701104
  14. https://github.com/sparkletron/Colecovision_Controller The github link above is for my finished project that has all the files to create a 3D printed Colecovision controller with all the original functionality. The form factor is the size of a NES controller. It uses micro-switches, single sided PCB, diodes, #4 pan screw, 3D printed parts, and a Sega Genesis extension cable. This is available with no license, do as you please with it. All files are available in the github repo.
  15. I received 3 free PS3 first party controllers from a freind last night. I don't want to put any additional strain on the power circuits of my lone remaining fat PS3 by trying to charge multiple controllers while gaming. Could I plug my PS3 controllers into any old USB socket and they will stop charging when full? Any reason I couldn't charge them off my Nintendo Switch USB ports, which will charge when the system is off? Thanks, trying to prolong the life of my first original early PS3, which has always worked great and I want to keep it that way.
  16. I'm just getting into the front-end RetroArch. I like the Shaders that can be applied to emulators that lack that capability. I'm having a hard time getting my Atari Paddle setup as a controller. I was able to set up the Atari Joystick. I'm using a 2600-daptor II. Has anyone had success with the paddle? Is there a way to setup more than one without have to re-configure as you go from joystick to paddle?
  17. Connect a usb keyboard and press the escape then enter key to get past the prompt for a controller. Used a bunch of different controllers (Xbox one, PS4, and Xbox 360) and this is the only method that seemed to work.
  18. I finally got around to adding a rotary encoder to one of my jag controllers. I followed the wiring diagrams I found on line, where one side of the rotary is wired to d-pad left, and the other to d-pad right with ground to the centre pin. I did not include the switch as the encoder is mounted on the back, out of the way. My problem is that the response is janky. The rotary jumps back-and-forth when turning in either direction, sort of like left, left, left, right, left, right, left etc. The funny thing is that I have tried three different rotary encoders (of differing types) in two different controllers all with similar results. The game selected doesn't seem to matter - the behavior is the same no matter what. In Rebooteroids, i have played with the trim but it doesn't stop the basic underlying issue. The encoders are bog-standard ones I had lying around, detented with 24 stops, but are not the recommended Bourns type. I have to admit I'm stumped and was wondering if anyone has any ideas?
  19. Alright, who with controller modding/building experience and a 3D printer want's to make this happen? ? I'm a sucker for matching, and there are quite a few XE games that just play better with a joypad over a stick.. but there aren't really any controllers that match the XE/ XEGS... so I designed this abomination! And with a 3D printer + the guts of a Sega Genesis controller, the dream can be a reality.. oh.. I'm the only one dreaming of this? ? But seriously. If anyone has the time and skill to make something like this, let me know your price!
  20. Up for grabs is a pair of tested working Wico "The Boss" joysticks that will work with most db9 pin game systems including all pre 90s Atari consoles and Commodore 64/ Vic 20. Only selling as a set. Asking $34 shipped to anywhere in the US. If elsewhere you'll have to pay extra for shipping.
  21. Hello there :) Would a DB9 to usb cable make it possible to use the atari joystick to play emulators on pc? Will it register input? USB 2.0 to RS232 DB9 Link: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0758BWVXF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_EJ5HWJR2DVX7W4J0S9BX?ref_=d6k_applink_bb_dls_failed I asked the support teams of this cable from Amazon. They told me they don't know but I should try comparing/matching the pin assignment. Unfortunately I have no clue. Does anyone have experience or have the tools to try? Greetings from Poland ??
  22. I have a darth vader 2600 model. First I only played Night Driver and seems to work. But maybe is because this game is more binary left/right. All other paddle games the sprite move corner left to corner right, without gradation. Any hint where the problem can be? Thanks.
  23. Seller in Egypt has a Comterm C5270-009 establishment controller. Pics show a TMS9995-based mainboard. Outside my budgetary constraints, but on the off chance anyone has the IPL disk(s) you'd need to operate this controller, please lmk. Or if you have any info, pics, manuals, etc for this or any other Comterm mainframe terminal equipment. https://www.ebay.com/itm/124945326862 Thanks, jbdigriz
  24. I got this old Colecovision from Creig’s list which is pretty dirt, controlle is fine, everything works perfect as it should except the joystick which only works if I push it to the right SOMETIMES if I’m playing a game and push the controller to the left hard enough it might make my character move slightly to the left, the other directions don’t work at all Here’s what the inside looks like
  25. Repairing an Arcadia 2001 Controller I had problems with a fire button of the left Arcadia 2001 controller, not firing anymore. The Arcadia-controllers are very simple and were cheaply made. Even working, they are not great controllers. In the end nothing will help, but making complete new controllers of quality components, with real switches. I might do that sometime, if there should be some games I really like and want to play decently. Not sure yet. But for the beginning a repair should be enough. Simultaneously I'm using the opportunity to preserve that technology by uploading a few pictures. That's my left controller: Inside everything is glued together. By pulling carefully the parts can be separated. The mylar is quite corroded and a bit dirty: Showing the color scheme the plug: The wiring of the mylar itself, in case somebody wants to make a reproduction (or wonders, why pushing the "2"-key, also triggers the gun). Both red fire buttons are wired in parallel. They are just simple buttons, no rocker switches, no up and down. It is a 5x5 millimeters grid in the background. I cleaned the corrosion and without heavy rubbing, not only oxidation went off, but also the printed conducting traces. They really are not bound firmly with the plastic carrier. Look at the red circle. I cleaned away part of button and wire, by using alcohol, an ear pad and too much pressure and rubbing. Cleaning must be done extremely careful: For the first time I tried to repair with conducting silver, since soldering is impossible. I made a mask of transparent tape for painting the new trace. I learnt, painting one time is not enough: To lower electric resistance, the trace must be thicker. I painted three times. Narrow traces are bad, too. They have to be wide. Contact with the original traces must overlap as far as possible to make good contact. Left picture: painting a few times. Right picture: pulling off the tape. I also re-painted the conductive pad of the fire-button later on. I took no photo. Before reassembling I protected the new traces with transparent tape, since the silver color can't get inside the mylar's surface and gets scratched off quite easily. Reassembled the controller, checked it, working again! I can't predict, how long the new pad of the button will last, of course. Hopefully some time...
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