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Found 117 results

  1. Greetings fellow forum members. I need your help and expertise in solving a problem. Recently i bought a 2600 vader console. Its in great shape and works perfectly. It came bundled with a pair of wireless cx-42 controllers, also in great shape, but they dont seem to work at all. The console powers with the receiver unit plugged, but theres no input from the controllers. I tested them with yars revenge and the yar just keeps going up and down while the unit is plugged. If i disconnect the controller cable the yar stops moving. Also tried with missile command and pole position and nothing happens. Turning the controllers on and off or pressing anything ,doesnt seem to affect the on screen action. I opened the receiver and the controllers and they seem to be fine. Nothing broken, burned or blown. Is there any other way to test if the receiver and the controllers are working? I could get a refund for the controllers, but i really want to keep them, they look so cool and i really love to see them working. Thanks in advance for reading!
  2. No matter what game I try or which controller I use, my 7800 will now think I am rapidly pressing both of the fire buttons. Is something wrong with the controller port? I'm hoping whatever it is, it will be an easy fix, but I dread that I might need to crack it open and operate on the circuit board.
  3. hey. really new to atari. i got mine today! its an original 2600 jr with 4 rom chips built in so as far as i know its kinda rare so thats cool. anyways my problem is, i bought the quick shot controller and it wont work. its really hard to get it in so im even unsure if it fits. could someone with the controller confirme it works? maybe an idea of whats going wrong here? any help will be much appreciated
  4. Hi, I have restarted my old company: Awesome Arcades. Its now selling Atari styled USB versions of the CX40 joysticks, Desktop arcade controls (So far I've only posted up the 7800 versions (Left & Right hand) and I need to update the photo's as they include built in paddle controls as well. I'll be posting on in the coming days the 2600 version, USB versions and some specialized desktop arcade controls like a dedicated Asteroids control panel for both 9 pin game/computer consoles and a USB version. I have a Missile Command one but I am awaiting the special buttons to make it arcade realistic. So, if you are interested, please stop by the site, sign up for an account and make a purchase, thanks. https://thejoystickshop.com Here are some of the products:
  5. New Super Game Controllers for the ColecoVision and Super Game Module 2 Last year we announced that we were working with renowned designer Ted Mayer, best known for his work for Mattel (Intellivision II and III, He-Man toys) and the original Star Wars movie. Ted has been helping us with a number of designs, including the OMNI and accessories. One such accessory is the OMNI controller. Before OMNI is released, we plan to offer a ColecoVision compatible version of the OMNI controller, which we are calling the Super Game Controller. The Super Game Controller is fully compatible with the regular ColecoVision controller, including a numeric keypad, and adds two extra buttons, for SGM2 games. The Super Game Controller also allows the use of special game overlays, and we plan to offer a complete set of them for both legacy and new games. We hope to finally offer a complete, high-quality, and viable alternative for the dreadful Coleco controllers. We are now in the process of investigating the costs involved, but so far it looks promising. We have all the sources in place. That said, our goal is to find out if there is enough interest in this project to make it happen. Since we are still investigating costs, it is hard to give precise numbers for minimum orders and final price just yet, but we are estimating 400 units and $60 per controller. We would also prefer to sell them in packs of two controllers. Please keep in mind the price is a guesstimate at this point. It is our best interest to sell the controller at the lowest possible price point, at no profit (for many different reasons, one being this is also our OMNI controller). So how can you “pre-order” them (more like a wait-list at this point, since we don’t plan to charge people until the controllers are final and ready for manufacturing)? Please subscribe to the wait list here:: http://eepurl.com/gmrNpL I will keep this thread updated. UPDATE (4/1/2019): we have crossed the 200 controllers mark already. Thank you! I would say very very promising, so let's get this done! UPDATE (4/2/2019): we are past 270 controllers. Thank you again! The more orders we get, the lower the price goes. UPDATE (4/2/2019): we are past 300 controllers! Amazing. Definitively happening!
  6. I’m excited to show you the OdysseyNow Game Pack, the result of a lot of research and development at the Vibrant Media Lab that I direct in Pittsburgh. We’ve developed a brand new game card for the Odyssey (the first one not designed by the Magnavox team), a brand new accessory controller (the first created besides the original light rifle), and a set of three new games. This was all produced as part of the OdysseyNow project, which you can read more about in another AtariAge thread. Here’s a glimpse of the games… Tannhauser Gate In a remote wing of a remote galaxy, on the frontiers of cosmic knowledge, lies Tannhauser's Gate, a colossal directed energy beam fed by a spacio-temporal anomaly of seemingly ceaseless energy. On the other side of the Gate is The Expanse, one of the most mysterious and deadly regions of outer space yet discovered, a zone that seems to vacillate in its allegiance to the laws of the quantum to the laws of the galactic. Spacetime here seems to have a will of its own. Charybdis, a black hole, lies not far from the Gate, and is clearly related to it in some way. Crimson Maw, a mostly uninhabitable planet, nonetheless provides researchers in the area with an ample supply of both common and rare minerals. Unfortunately, the planet and its single natural satellite, “Odysseus,” are isolated from the gate by the massive parade of interstellar stone known as the Scyllan Corridor. Closer at hand, yet surprisingly more barren, is the planet Coronation. Because few minerals or supplies of interest can be found there, it is used mostly as a garbage dump. Such is the fate of even the most regal of mineral-poor planets. Multiple interstellar civilizations have sent researchers to the area, mainly in an attempt to understand the intergalactic wormhole that serves to connect this remote spot to the energy-rich Flywheel Galaxy via Quantum Refluctuation. While ostensibly a demilitarized zone, Tannhauser Gate is plagued by intense rivalry over the scientific knowledge that it provides to its sponsoring corporations, governments, and collectives. These researchers must uneasily share a moon base shielded by the Gate. To venture beyond its boundaries is to be bombarded with a relentless stream of dark particles. No shields can last for long. While an interstellar team of engineers has managed to harness the local energy flux to construct the Gate, its operation remains partially at the whim of the energy patterns that feed it, making the expanse beyond the Gate even more risky to explore. For this reason, the largest scientific collective to currently study the area has created a specialized, long-range scanning platform. Located safely behind Tannhauser Gate, it launches and receives C-beams capable of probing any form of matter. Their rivals, however, use replicant-manned spacecraft to explore outside of the Gate, directly. Take on the roles of the Scanner, Explorer, and Gate Keeper as you compete to complete your missions and disrupt your rivals. Will you be the one to discover the secret of Tannhauser Gate? Tannhauser Gate is a 3 player game that makes use of a newly designed game card (#13). This card includes an external Aux jack and a “Switch Controller” that attaches to it. The card generates the Tannhauser Gate. The switch controller opens and closes the gate. The Gate Keeper player draws a special Gate card at the beginning of each round, which contains a special gate pattern that must be followed. The Scanner player remains stationary throughout the round, but may send C-beams (represented by the Odyssey’s ball) through the gate to scan various objects in the expanse beyond. The Scanner draws Scan cards that provide specific assignments to carry out. Meanwhile, the Explorer must charge up their ship, activate their life support system, wait for the right moment, and zip out into the expanse, attempting to complete their missions (given on special Explore cards) and return to safety inside the gate before their ship is destroyed by the energy fields of the expanse. This is extremely risky, however, as misjudging the ever-changing rhythm of the gate could cause the ship to implode before it can reach safety! In addition to Game Card #13 and the Switch Controller, Tannhauser Gate makes use of the Damocles controller, the first Accessory controller for the Odyssey besides the light rifle. The Damocles controller plugs into the ACC port on the Odyssey. When Player 2 presses the large red button on its face, a countdown timer lights up and begins counting down. When it hits zero, it extinguishes your on-screen player spot. Its button also lights up red to remind you that you’re dead! A white “regen” button allows you to regenerate your ship when the time is right. In Tannhauser Gate, all three players are doing completely different tasks using completely different tools, yet all three interact in unexpected ways (the gate can bounce the Scanner’s C-Beams away as well as “lock out” the Explorer at a crucial moment, Scan missions can require the Scanner to scan the Explorer, and Explore missions sometimes require the Explorer to intercept C-Beams. The results ensure that no two games of Tannhauser Gate are the same! Fukushima Fukushima is the first-ever cooperative game for the Magnavox Odyssey. Two players are placed inside the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power plant and must work together to prevent the inevitable: a meltdown. Each player takes on a different role in the plant. Player 2 uses the Damocles controller to continually complete a Cooling Cycle, while also assisting Player 1 complete a progressively more difficult Maintenance Cycle, which involves directing the ball to specific points while also activating particular buttons at specific times. This would be enough of a challenge as it is, but a third player with a timer consults a Meltdown reference card and at the appointed times calls out various new disasters that the players must contend with. (Note: If you only have two players, you could also make a recording of the Meltdown Cycle and play that back during gameplay.) The game starts out easy, but gets progressively more difficult as you try to beat the clock to safely shut down the reactor before it fully melts down. Because the game has a delineated set of “levels,” you can easily track your progress. Your team can even compete against other teams for a high score (level achieved + time survived at the point of failure). No one here has been able to beat the game yet. Maybe you can? Fukushima is not only the first coop Odyssey game, but is also the first to utilize the “Wall adjust” control on the console itself. In this game, the wall represents the reactor’s containment barrier, which must sometimes be moved by the players to gain access. But be very careful: when the containment barrier is open, you must prevent the ball from entering the core or it will instantly melt down! Fukushima requires game card #13 and the Damocles controller. Super Cat and Mouse: Cheesy Castle At OdysseyNow, we are big fans of the underappreciated Cat and Mouse game on the Odyssey. We think that a fun concept and mechanic was undermined by substandard production design, and have decided to re-invent the game by giving it a proper setting: a medieval castle. Now, the mouse must collect cheese strewn about the castle by lazy humans, while avoiding the King’s fierce cat! As the King’s cat, of course, you must rid the castle of that peasant vermin.
  7. Hello friends, I recently came into some new Super Famicom hardware, including two mystery controllers that I absolutely cannot find any information on. I suspect they are nothing special but I'd like to be sure. This forum seems like the perfect resource, full of knowledgeable folks who might be able to identify such things. Please see attached images. The controller is called the "Master Blaster" which really complicates getting a decent google search. I have two, non-functional and one functional but in need of silicon repair. I don't have the means to try and fix the non-functional one. Just wondering if some museum would benefit having these before I potentially get rid of em. Thanks!
  8. Hi there, I am trying to get a controller to work properly. I cut the cord and attempted to solder the wires on to the connector and being inexperienced I didn't do a very good job. Any way to fix this problem any easier?
  9. Maybe someone can help me solve a few small problems I'm coming across. I'm following this schematic/description -- https://gamesx.com/controldata/psxcont/psxcont.htm#CIRCUIT I think I figured it out...mostly. He leaves a lot to be deciphered, lol. I'm drawing up a schematic in KiCAD right now, and I only have a few questions: 1. The DATA pin of the controller plug connects to SER OUT, correct? 2. Where does the COMMAND pin of the controller plug connect to? I must've re-read the entire page 15 times and still can't decipher where COMMAND goes. 3. Are the 74HC165 pins not associated with buttons (A1-A8, B1-B8, etc.) left with no connection? Or do they share a connection? COMMAND, maybe? Thanks in advance!
  10. Here's my tutorial video on upgrading my old Jaguar rotary controller into more of a spinner controller. I used an Atari 2600 paddle top that I loaded up with fishing sinkers. Check it out here:
  11. Hi guys! I have modded a Sega Megadrive/Genesis controller for my own needs but have tried also to put it on Ebay and to my surprise they are selling quite well, so I have now got a bunch of Sega controllers for modding. If you would like to have one too, check it on ebay: Sega Controller Modded for Vectrex If you would like some other button order or if you have some other special wish, please send me a pm and if I can I will gladly make one customised just for you. 🙂 Have a nice day!
  12. nicknickuk

    IMG 0727(1)

    From the album: Raspberry Pi Custom Atari case designs

    Atari VCS inspired controller used for my raspberry Pi which is a 3rd party PS3 Bluetooth controller.
  13. I just did a very quick search and didn't find a picture of this so I thought I would post it. It's from a 1984 Montgomery Ward Christmas Catalog (page 535). It may just be the picture, but this controller does seem to look a little different than the standard Proline controller from the 7800. This version appears to be designed for the Atari 2600 (most likely the same as the 7800 proline I assume). Anyway here's the full catalog page:
  14. Been striving for months to streamline and improve production methods as well as find better deals on parts and materials, and I'm finally there. All MiniVex controllers for the Vectrex are now $99 plus shipping. Except the MiniVex I, that one's $89. You can see pictures and descriptions of each model in the Vectrex forum here on AtariAge, or visit my eBay page at: eBay Seller: classicgamesandcarsfan Thank you to all who have helped MiniVex to become established in the classic gaming community. Larry
  15. Here's the newest addition to the MiniVex controller lineup for Vectrex. The MiniVex V features a steel case and an adjustable rapid fire feature for button #4, like the other models do. This one's got a LH mounted spinner control and a RH mounted analog paddle control. The spinner can be used with some homebrew games and an assortment of original Vectrex titles that have been modified for spinner use. It also doubles as an extra fire button, just push down on it. The paddle control can be used with the game "Hyperchase" in its original, unmodified Vectrex cartridge format, as well as Vectrace, Spike's Water Balloons, Vaboom, and a few other homebrew titles. There's also a switch that selects the X or Y axis for the paddle, which allows you to navigate menus on multi-carts AND crank up the thrusters on Moon Lander. All in all, a versatile package. Need additional info? Please post here or PM me. Larry
  16. Got a moving sale going on, prices negotiable, shipping will be the larger portion of the price....and Paypal only. Three 5200 joysticks - SOLD. Next is a hardly used Okimate Printer originally for the Commodore 64. I know most collectors have no use for old printers, but there is always one somewhere....the kicker on this one is the three UNOPENED ink cartridges (2 color, 1 black) so there might be some life left in them...I have no idea what to ask for it as the shipping might be hefty....if anyone has interest in it, just PM offer and we'll negotiate. It DOES power up, gives a blinking 'Ready' light, but I DO NOT have the extra serial cable and have not hooked it up to a real C64. Last, Nintendo DSI with four carts and charger, very clean screens (not mashed in touchscreen like some used ones) - $55 plus shipping. Will combine shipping and try to get you the best shipping rate possible...Thanks for looking!
  17. I have done some brainstorming for a YouTube video that has to do with classic video game controllers that people pay over $100 for. In the end, I'm thinking people don't pay that kind of money for 2600 controllers... but could I be wrong? I know there's a Wico that has an extra large base that people look for. Do you think that one would fetch more than $100? Here's the link to the video if you're interested:
  18. I'm so...SO happy right now. I've had this project on the backburner for over half a year, and tonight I finally got around to modding & wiring the components and mounting everything on a "test control panel". I'm happy to report: I've successfully modded an NES-04 controller into an arcade stick. Tested it with Contra, and it works perfectly. Sanwa joystick, Suzo-Happ buttons, Cherry microswitches, if anyone's curious. I'll update this thread from time to time with updates on the control panel/body design and build.
  19. This one was based on suggestions from the community, and my own frustration with fast-moving games like Stargate that require two controllers. Two loose factory controllers are fine for the slower games, but unless you have a contraption that holds the two together, very frustrating for the fast games. Originally this was going to be for the Atari 2600 only, but a number of 7800 fans voiced a desire for one that would work with their favorite system, so why not? Especially with Robotron available on that system! The leftmost pair of buttons corresponds to the left joystick, and the rightmost pair to the right joystyick. The two toggle switches on the back shuffle the A / B buttons in each pair when used on the 7800. When used on the 2600, both buttons perform the same function. The two joysticks are digital, but have the smooth feel of analog sticks. Case is made of steel, so it's a bit heavier than the average controller, but well-suited for tabletop use. Felt feet ensure that your prized hardwood table won't get all scratched up. Too early to tell how many of these will be produced. Like what you see? Please contact me for any info not presented here. Larry
  20. I've owned a few of these. Still have my original from the early 80s. I used to dislike the overall feel because to me they felt a little cheap. But after decades of service, and owning several, they sure as hell aren't "cheap". The ergonomics are a bit wonky, and the "feel" is a little off .... but they are ultra reliable (never had to take one apart for maintenance), and they are very accurate. The colors aesthetically match the XE series too; just a minor bonus for me. Now, for better or worse, I'm just used to them, as it's been my standby/go-to if other sticks were down for maintenance. Now it's just my main stick. Was looking at picking a few more up and noticed the ones I have (and have had) all have a depression on the underside and two screws on the joystick side. Most of the ones for sale have no bottom depression and have an additional screw holding on the joystick casing. Any comments, thoughts, or other insights on which variation is better? Should I go out of my way to stick with the variation I'm used to or is the other variation superior in some way. Thanks
  21. Three controllers in one! MiniVex 3-in-1 Deluxe for the Atari 2600 / VCS provides a joystick, driving controller, and paddle all in one unit, PLUS a detachable mini-paddle to add a second player to paddle based-games. Play all your favorite games, one after the other, with no need to unplug and plug in all the different controller types. The original 3-in-1 has a switch for toggling between paddle "A" and paddle "B." The Deluxe instead has a jack for the mini-paddle, so your trash-talking buddy can challenge you in Street Racer. Joystick has the feel of an analog stick but functions like a digital one. All new internal parts are used, so NO jittering during driving or paddle games. Either button can be used with any of the three controls, making it friendly for both right and left handers. Cases are made of tough steel; your dog cannot chew them to pieces. Note: these are hand-made by me, so they aren't cosmetically perfect. 30-day repair guarantee. Please see photos below and check out this link to see the MiniVex 3-in-1's and all my other items currently available: eBay Seller: classicgamesandcarsfan Thanks for stopping in. Larry
  22. Well, I've done some more experimenting and have managed to find a way to attach wired PS3 and Xbox 360 controllers to the 5200 to play the games that offer digital controls (as opposed to the analog-only games like Missile Command). This required a number of video game controller adapters/cables and a USB power supply. Here's how it's done: The adapters needed to get the wired PS3 controllers compatible with the Atari 5200 are as follows: 1) a 15 pin PC Gameport controller to 15 pin Atari 5200 adapter. These are obtained by contacting Atariage member, bohoki. He makes these for under $20 (shipped within the U.S.). 2) An adapter that converts Atari/Amiga/Sega controllers with a 9 pin connector to a 15 pin PC gameport. These are available on Ebay from "Ikonsgr74" and can be obtained for under $20 (shipped anywhere in the world). 3) A Tototek Joypad Convertor version MD (for Playstation controller compatibility on the Megadrive/Sega Genesis). These adapters are under $30. 4) A Brook Game Controller Super Convertor for adapting a PS3/PS4 controller to a PS2 console. These can be had for under $40. 5) a USB splitter cable ($12 or less). 6) a powersupply with a USB cord (5Volts) OR a USB Hub with connected power supply. To get the Xbox 360 controllers compatible with the 5200, you'll need one additional adapter. It is the Mayflash Universal Adapter for Xbox360/PS3/PS2/PC USB. These may be found at Amazon. Current price for these on Amazon is $30, but that is subject to change. Mayflash adapters tend to become scarce and go up in price. If any of you have interest in a video presentation on this (as well as a quick explanation of how to fix a potentiometer controller problem) here's the link for that:
  23. The Atari Lynx 1-UP from: starforcepi.wordpress.com What’s the greatest handheld of the 1980s and 1990s? Why, the 16-bit arcade juggernaut named Atari Lynx, of course! I was a kid when the original Lynx 1 came out for us here in the old country in 1990, and was blown away. The Game Boy was a monochrome moron in comparison, and the Game Gear was all about converting Mega Drive and Master System games to pocket version – the Lynx, with its hardware-driven zooming and distortion of sprites, was going for Arcade experiences. BOOYA! Sadly, as with everthing Atari, this too turned to dust. BUT, fast-forward to 2018 and look at the love for this loveable giant! So much so, that McWill, a name you must’ve heard of by now, released one of the most impressive upgrades for a system I’ve ever seen – LCD replacement for the waning washed-out Lynx screen, with VGA output. The VGA output was a great addition, but the way I’ve seen people utilize it online seemed rather silly to me; you would have to use the Lynx as the controller when playing on the VGA. No sir, I don’t like it. So I decided to use the spacious room behind the screen to build an interface to: 1) securely place the Lynx on a stand; 2) output VGA; 3) connect a standard DB9 compatible controller (Mega Drive, Master System, Atari). It’s a tight squeeze, but the VGA, Controller port and Stand all fit neatly in the small 3x4cm interface window. This was an absolute pleasure to build, everything went smooth and simple, all the measurements were direct hits, hell even the stand only took me 10 minutes to design (8 hours to print, but hey). So let’s see it in full VGA action: It’s perhaps the best handheld to consolize: the GameGear has most games on Master System or Mega Drive, the GameBoy looks rather silly and clunky on a monitor, and TurboExpress is pointless, because it’s a 1-to-1 conversion of the actual console. I am glad I did it, I hope you will too, and stop placing those ugly connectors on the top of your handheld. Building the Lynx 1-UPI bought a pristine looking junked Lynx 1 for 20 euros – seemed a good place to start, let’s see if we can bring it alive! I replaced all the capacitors, power input socket, MOSFET, but finally it was the two 3906 transistors that were the issue. In order to do these replacements, you need a fine-point soldering iron and some tweezers, but everything on the board is quite spacious, so there’s no mistaking what’s what. This part is cheap: 7 dollars on console5.com. They have links and tutorials on that site, very complete. I also bought the McWill for 120 dollars, I was gonna do this mod regardless if this particular system was junked. So far everything together cost me ~150 dollars. After bringing the console back to live, it was time for McWillification! I followed the 1 page diagram that came with it, but it’s a little information dense, so I followed the following video instead: This worked better than I could have ever imagined, I know everyone says they’re gobsmacked when they see the difference, but it really is very true – I get why it’s such an expensive mod now. I was gonna leave it with that, honestly that’s just everything one could ever want from an upgrade… but, of course, me being the way I am, things escalated. You see, the mod came with the VGA socket, and I saw how people were placing these at the top of their handhelds, and you know what – it looked ugly. I want the facade of the handheld to be untouched. While I was adding the McWill mod I noticed the enormous space left behind the screen, which is when I had the idea: make the Lynx into a hybrid, with the connector ports at the back with a stand for console gaming via VGA, and all the ports hidden behing a minimal cover during handheld gaming. I first ordered DB9 sockets for a controller, and placed this together with the VGA socket on the inside of the battery cover. I made a little window in the battery cover, 3D printed a frame and cover for the ports, and there we have our interface. For the controller ports I had to solder 6 wires on the button pads of the Lynx PCB. Luckily most of these have soldered extension traces, so you can avoid blocking the normal button-to-pad press, but for two I had to solder directly onto the pad: be mindfull to be as flat as possible. Then we wire up the VGA socket to the pads on the McWill screen, this is shown in the accompanied diagram of the screen. We then place the DB9 and VGA socket in the space between the batteries, where the little light tube of the old screen sat (ignore the loose wires, they’re from the battery input, I cut them for ease of access). In the left picture, top connector is the VGA socket you can see running to the McWill screen. The lower connector go to the front of the PCB to the button pads. When assembled the VGA socket is lower, and DB9 is upper. Next to these I added screw connectors, so that I may fix the system to a stand, as shown in the next pictures: Unlike the Nintendo Snack Pack, this was a joy to make. I did it to unwind and relax, I didn’t want to build something from the ground up, but this just gave enough inspiration to just slightly 1-up it. The Lynx Stand and little VGA cover in particular really clean the mod up nicely, and makes this thing into a fully consolized system. I must admit though, I’ve been mostly playing it with the stand and controller via the McWill screen, not via VGA, but hey, it’s there. Finally, it all cost me a substantial 150 euro, but it was worth it. The Atari Lynx is a very strange and powerful handheld, spanning 7 years with 72 games, it’s still enjoying new homebrew releases every year, with a small but dedicated following. I’m very happy to be one of them. Upgrades: Full capacitor replacement MOSFET replacement 3906 Transistor replacement Power input socket replacement McWill Screen upgrade VGA output port DB9 input port Custom interface window & stand
  24. New MiniVex controller for Atari 2600 / VCS combines a joystick, paddle, and driving controller all in one unit! Up until now, MiniVex controllers were made for the Vectrex (with the exception of the MiniVex Pedal I, which is compatible with both Vectrex and Atari) but this one is strictly Atari compatible. Compact size fits right in your hand, see second photo for size comparison. ONE cord and ONE plug, you can play your favorite games, one after the other, without having to unplug and plug in all the different controllers. Case is made of tough steel, has a weighty feel to it. Two toggle switches on the back. One selects joystick or paddle function, and the other toggles between paddle "A" and paddle "B." The black button on the back enables and disables the driving controller. Two buttons for your convenience, no matter if you're left or right handed. Either button can be used with any of the three controllers. Driving controller on the left, paddle on the right. Joystick in the center has the feel of an analog stick but functions like a digital one. All new parts used in the making, so there'll be no jittering during Breakout or Indy 500. This and other MiniVex controllers are hand-made by me, so they aren't cosmetically perfect. They do come with a 30-day repair guarantee. A handful of these will be auctioned on eBay during the next few weeks, as they get made. The hand-making process is slow, and how many will ultimately be made remains up in the air at this point. Please see this and my other eBay listings under seller name "classicgamesandcarsfan." Larry
  25. Hi All, Hoping someone can help me. I am trying to get a wireless 8BITDO controller working with jzintv on RetroPie with World Championship Baseball. I can use the keyboard and I can switch to the controller by toggling F7 - but I can only use the directional keys which are mapped to the keypad - but not the disc. That is, I can activate or throw to a player but can't move the player with the joystick. I know that my keyboard hackfile is working - the reset and power mappings work. For some reason the disc mappings do not work on this game alone. My hackfile is below. Any ideas? Other games are working fine. Thanks in advance. ; ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MAP 0 ; keymap 0 (default keymap) ; ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ; ***** Joystick #0 - Left Controller ***** ; ** Side Buttons and Numeric Keypad ** JS0_BTN_06 PD0L_A_T JS0_BTN_07 PD0L_A_T JS0_BTN_08 PD0L_A_L JS0_BTN_09 PD0L_A_R JS0_HAT0_NW PD0L_KP1 JS0_HAT0_N PD0L_KP2 JS0_HAT0_NE PD0L_KP3 JS0_HAT0_W PD0L_KP4 JS0_BTN_04 PD0L_KP5 JS0_HAT0_E PD0L_KP6 JS0_HAT0_SW PD0L_KP7 JS0_HAT0_S PD0L_KP8 JS0_HAT0_SE PD0L_KP9 JS0_BTN_04 PD0L_KPC JS0_BTN_01 PD0L_KP0 JS0_BTN_00 PD0L_KPE JS0_BTN_10 RESET JS0_BTN_11 QUIT ; ** Direction Disc ** JS0_N PD0L_J_N JS0_NNE PD0L_J_NNE JS0_NE PD0L_J_NE JS0_ENE PD0L_J_ENE JS0_E PD0L_J_E JS0_ESE PD0L_J_ESE JS0_SE PD0L_J_SE JS0_SSE PD0L_J_SSE JS0_S PD0L_J_S JS0_SSW PD0L_J_SSW JS0_SW PD0L_J_SW JS0_WSW PD0L_J_WSW JS0_W PD0L_J_W JS0_WNW PD0L_J_WNW JS0_NW PD0L_J_NW JS0_NNW PD0L_J_NNW ; ***** Joystick #1 - Right Controller ***** ; ** Side Buttons and Numeric Keypad ** JS1_BTN_06 PD0R_A_T JS1_BTN_07 PD0R_A_T JS1_BTN_08 PD0R_A_L JS1_BTN_09 PD0R_A_R JS1_HAT0_NW PD0R_KP1 JS1_HAT0_N PD0R_KP2 JS1_HAT0_NE PD0R_KP3 JS1_HAT0_W PD0R_KP4 JS1_BTN_04 PD0R_KP5 JS1_HAT0_E PD0R_KP6 JS1_HAT0_SW PD0R_KP7 JS1_HAT0_S PD0R_KP8 JS1_HAT0_SE PD0R_KP9 JS1_BTN_04 PD0R_KPC JS1_BTN_01 PD0R_KP0 JS1_BTN_00 PD0R_KPE JS1_BTN_10 RESET JS1_BTN_11 QUIT ; ** Direction Disc ** JS1_N PD0R_J_N JS1_NNE PD0R_J_NNE JS1_NE PD0R_J_NE JS1_ENE PD0R_J_ENE JS1_E PD0R_J_E JS1_ESE PD0R_J_ESE JS1_SE PD0R_J_SE JS1_SSE PD0R_J_SSE JS1_S PD0R_J_S JS1_SSW PD0R_J_SSW JS1_SW PD0R_J_SW JS1_WSW PD0R_J_WSW JS1_W PD0R_J_W JS1_WNW PD0R_J_WNW JS1_NW PD0R_J_NW JS1_NNW PD0R_J_NNW ; ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MAP 1 ; ECS 1 (ECS keymap) ; ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ; ***** Joystick #0 - Left Controller ***** ; ** Side Buttons and Numeric Keypad ** JS0_BTN_06 PD0L_A_T JS0_BTN_07 PD0L_A_T JS0_BTN_08 PD0L_A_L JS0_BTN_09 PD0L_A_R JS0_HAT0_NW PD0L_KP1 JS0_HAT0_N PD0L_KP2 JS0_HAT0_NE PD0L_KP3 JS0_HAT0_W PD0L_KP4 JS0_BTN_04 PD0L_KP5 JS0_HAT0_E PD0L_KP6 JS0_HAT0_SW PD0L_KP7 JS0_HAT0_S PD0L_KP8 JS0_HAT0_SE PD0L_KP9 JS0_BTN_04 PD0L_KPC JS0_BTN_01 PD0L_KP0 JS0_BTN_00 PD0L_KPE JS0_BTN_10 RESET JS0_BTN_11 QUIT ; ** Direction Disc ** JS0_N PD0L_J_N JS0_NNE PD0L_J_NNE JS0_NE PD0L_J_NE JS0_ENE PD0L_J_ENE JS0_E PD0L_J_E JS0_ESE PD0L_J_ESE JS0_SE PD0L_J_SE JS0_SSE PD0L_J_SSE JS0_S PD0L_J_S JS0_SSW PD0L_J_SSW JS0_SW PD0L_J_SW JS0_WSW PD0L_J_WSW JS0_W PD0L_J_W JS0_WNW PD0L_J_WNW JS0_NW PD0L_J_NW JS0_NNW PD0L_J_NNW ; ***** Joystick #1 - Right Controller ***** ; ** Side Buttons and Numeric Keypad ** JS1_BTN_06 PD0R_A_T JS1_BTN_07 PD0R_A_T JS1_BTN_08 PD0R_A_L JS1_BTN_09 PD0R_A_R JS1_HAT0_NW PD0R_KP1 JS1_HAT0_N PD0R_KP2 JS1_HAT0_NE PD0R_KP3 JS1_HAT0_W PD0R_KP4 JS1_BTN_04 PD0R_KP5 JS1_HAT0_E PD0R_KP6 JS1_HAT0_SW PD0R_KP7 JS1_HAT0_S PD0R_KP8 JS1_HAT0_SE PD0R_KP9 JS1_BTN_04 PD0R_KPC JS1_BTN_01 PD0R_KP0 JS1_BTN_00 PD0R_KPE JS1_BTN_10 RESET JS1_BTN_11 QUIT ; ** Direction Disc ** JS1_N PD0R_J_N JS1_NNE PD0R_J_NNE JS1_NE PD0R_J_NE JS1_ENE PD0R_J_ENE JS1_E PD0R_J_E JS1_ESE PD0R_J_ESE JS1_SE PD0R_J_SE JS1_SSE PD0R_J_SSE JS1_S PD0R_J_S JS1_SSW PD0R_J_SSW JS1_SW PD0R_J_SW JS1_WSW PD0R_J_WSW JS1_W PD0R_J_W JS1_WNW PD0R_J_WNW JS1_NW PD0R_J_NW JS1_NNW PD0R_J_NNW
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