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The title says all, I have converted the existing schematics into Kicad. This is the 1.0.0 release, and hopefully there will be no erratum. https://github.com/sporniket/kicad-conv ... /tag/1.0.0 The release provides a PDF with the schematics, a PDF with the silkscreen of the motherboard reconstruction, and a ready to use Kicad project (libraries included). For the schematics, I have decided that : Symbols for the ICs will show the physical layout of the pins, as it makes it easier to spot the pin on the real IC (for me at least). And because thanks to that, the GSTMCU still fits on an A4 sized sheets. On one occasion I deviated from this choice (for the dma sound amplification and filtering) as it obfuscated too much the circuit. Each original sheet is splitted so that each sub-part is printable on a A4 sized sheet. A Table of content I also have mentionned some fixes that would be usefull/mandatory. DMA pull-up on databus WD1772 pull-ups LMC audio mix fix RGB Video ghosting fix C415 that should be reversed The projects contains an approximative reconstruction of the motherboard's PCB. It will be good enough to locate a given component and to know how a signal is distributed accross the board. And it allow to make nice 3D renderings.

Hi all I have recently finished my Atari Flashback Raspberry Pi conversion. I have based it on the look of the Atari 2600 Vader edition. This is an Atari Flashback 6 with a Raspberry Pi 3b+ inside with Retropie. I removed the Flashback buttons and replaced them with arcade style buttons. I used black snakeskin style vinyl wrap to cover the brown wood effect front panel. I removed the old Joystick ports and added USB ports. I cut a hole in the back to add an HDMI port. Another hole was cut to add a Micro SD card reader so I can easily remove the SD card without opening up the whole case. I wired the Pi board to the power button and a white power LED. Hot glue, super glue and lots of filing was used for the project. The Pi board is currently sitting loose in the case as not a lot of room to bolt it in, but it is very secure as it is. I have converted an Atari Flashback 7800 joystick to work via USB by using a convertor. Also connected, an 8Bitdo wireless controller. Just for effect......I messed around with a couple of "free" retro wallpaper backgrounds and stuck my Flashback in the middle, which came out well.

There was a demo on Javatari. If it is not there now please wait for the next update.

Hi, I would like to announce that we (XXL, Odyn1ec & me) are working on "Hobgoblin 2" for Atari XL/XE - a conversion of BBC Micro game by David Parsons. Our version should be ready this year, and let me present you the first teaser: You probably remember "Hobgoblin" (2008), the conversion of the first part. This time there's going to be much more changes of the original game (including new in-game graphics and a new level). In the video you may see the animation for the loading screen. The team: - code: XXL - title screen and ending screens, game logo, loading animation, the video: Jarek "Odyn1ec" Wyszyński - in-game graphics, new level design: Adam Wachowski - music: XLent, Michał "Caruso" Brzezicki, Michał "stRing" Radecki

Well hello my fellow Atarians. If you're like me you still use the old Atari (either real thing or emulated), but you also use a modern computer like a Windows PC, Linux PC, or Mac. In that case you probably have cause to use text files from one system on the other and visa versa. As some of you know, I developed a program for the A8 to do converting called AAC. You can get info on that over in it's own topic. This new topic is about a different program with the same name that does the same job, but runs natively on the new machines. It is written in Python so has the ability to be cross platform. So here is AAC v0.1, 32-bit Windows, for your testing pleasure. It works fine as expected in every case I have tested so far, but I like to get feedback from others too. Once any bugs (if any) are ironed out. It will get it's v1.0 release. If you need a Linux version to test let me know.

Hi everyone! I am attempting to play an Atari 2600 on a modern-day television. Specifically, on the LG - 77" Class CX Series OLED 4K UHD Smart webOS TV. Its specs are a little different than your average digital TV, I believe. At least different enough to not be compatible with the recommendations I see for using an upscaler. Because it's not a 60hz TV; it's 120hz. And apparently that causes...interface problems with upscalers most ppl are using. So that's fun, right? LOL.... There is also some question as to HDMI being used, tho I am not entirely clear on the reasons associated with that. This model encompasses both HDMI 2.0 as well as HDMI 2.1 (thank goodness)....which other LG OLED models do not. Apparently HDMI 2.0 is getting "phased out"....but this model, thankfully, still allows its use! Something else of note....is the "Resolution" with this model. It's listed at 2160p (not 1080p)......is that unusual? I expected it to be 1080p. And since that is double what other models I've seen list, how does that impact use of an upscaler, or even use of an Open Source Scan Converter (OSSC) in this process of getting the Atari 2600 to play (well) on this model of TV? Here are the full specs of the TV in question, the one that will be used to play the Atari 2600 on. From the BestBuy website: ___________________________________ Specifications Key Specs Display Type OLED Resolution 4K (2160p) Screen Size Class 77 inches High Dynamic Range (HDR) Yes High Dynamic Range Format Dolby Vision, HDR 10, Hybrid Log-Gamma (HLG) Refresh Rate 120Hz Specific Manufacturer Technologies HDR Dynamic, Tone Mapping Pro, Advanced Contrast Enhancer, Face Enhancing, Ultra Luminance Pro, Billion Rich Colors, True Color Accuracy Pro Smart Platform webOS Featured Streaming Services Apple TV+, Paramount+, Crackle, Disney+, Fandango, Google Play Movies & TV, Hulu, Netflix, Pandora, Peacock, Prime Video, Redbox, SHOWTIME, SIRIUS, STARZ, Sling TV, Spotify, Twitch, Vudu, YouTube, YouTube TV, iHeartRadio Number of HDMI Inputs (Total) 4 Works With Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant Voice Assistant Built-in Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant General Product Name 77" Class CX Series OLED 4K UHD Smart webOS TV Brand LG Model Number OLED77CXPUA Series CX Series Model Year 2020 Color Silver Color Category Silver Dimensions Product Height With Stand 40.3 inches Product Width 67.8 inches Product Depth With Stand 10.6 inches Product Height Without Stand 39.1 inches Product Depth Without Stand 2.2 inches Product Weight With Stand 79.1 pounds Product Weight Without Stand 58.9 pounds Adjustable Stand Width No Box Dimensions Height 44.5 inches Width 74.6 inches Depth 11.2 inches Display Display Type OLED Resolution 4K (2160p) Screen Size 76.7 inches Screen Size Class 77 inches High Dynamic Range (HDR) Yes High Dynamic Range Format Dolby Vision, HDR 10, Hybrid Log-Gamma (HLG) Picture Quality Enhancement Technology Cinema HDR Curved Screen No Refresh Rate 120Hz Closed Captioning Yes Language(s) Displayed English, French, Spanish 3D Technology No Features Remote Control Type Magic Specific Manufacturer Technologies HDR Dynamic, Tone Mapping Pro, Advanced Contrast Enhancer, Face Enhancing, Ultra Luminance Pro, Billion Rich Colors, True Color Accuracy Pro Smart Capable Yes Smart Platform webOS Featured Streaming Services Apple TV+, Paramount+, Crackle, Disney+, Fandango, Google Play Movies & TV, Hulu, Netflix, Pandora, Peacock, Prime Video, Redbox, SHOWTIME, SIRIUS, STARZ, Sling TV, Spotify, Twitch, Vudu, YouTube, YouTube TV, iHeartRadio Screen Mirroring Yes Screen Mirroring Technology Miracast Indoor Or Outdoor Use Indoor Text-To-Speech Yes Video Description Yes V-Chip No TV Tuner Digital Connectivity Number of HDMI Inputs (Total) 4 Number of HDMI 2.1 Inputs 1 Number of HDMI 2.0 Inputs 3 HDMI Audio Return Channel (ARC) Yes Number Of USB Port(s) (Total) 3 Number of USB 2.0 Ports 3 Ethernet Port(s) Yes RF Antenna Input Yes Bluetooth Enabled Yes Bluetooth Version 5.0 Network Compatibility Built-in Wi-Fi, Ethernet Number of RS-232 Inputs 1 Headphone Jack Yes Number of Digital Optical Audio Outputs 1 Number of Component Video Inputs 0 Number of Composite Video Inputs 1 Number of DVI Inputs 0 Compatibility VESA Wall Mount Standard 400mm x 200mm Works With Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant Voice Assistant Built-in Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant Audio Built-In Speakers Yes Built-in Speaker Type Front firing Surround Sound Supported Dolby Atmos, OLED Surround Speaker Output 40 watts Power ENERGY STAR Certified No EPEAT Qualified No Estimated Annual Operating Cost 38 United States dollars Estimated Annual Electricity Use 313 kilowatt hours Rechargeable Battery (Remote Control) No Number Of Batteries Required (Remote Control) 2 Number of Batteries Included (Remote Control) 2 Included Stand Included Yes Cable(s) Included AC power Warranty Manufacturer's Warranty - Parts 1 Year Manufacturer's Warranty - Labor 1 Year Other UPC 719192637177 ___________________________________ Thoughts on what type of upscaler (if any) or OSSC (if any)......to use to get this done? Really need to play the Atari 2600 on this TV!! Man I hope there is a solution to be found. I'm open to any and all suggestions!!! Please let me know what should be used; the things to get and use, etc....even if they are not OSSC or an upscaler. I just want to know how to play Atari again, on a modern TV; how that gets done though eludes me. Pls forgive the n00bishness. <3 Thanks in advance for any and all help! With appreciation, froggerchamp ---

Hi all I have recently finished my Atari Flashback Raspberry Pi conversion. I have based it on the look of the Atari 2600 Vader edition. This is an Atari Flashback 6 with a Raspberry Pi 3b+ inside with Retropie. I removed the Flashback buttons and replaced them with arcade style buttons. I used black snakeskin style vinyl wrap to cover the brown wood effect front panel. I removed the old Joystick ports and added USB ports. I cut a hole in the back to add an HDMI port. Another hole was cut to add a Micro SD card reader so I can easily remove the SD card without opening up the whole case. I wired the Pi board to the power button and a white power LED. Hot glue, super glue and lots of filing was used for the project. The Pi board is currently sitting loose in the case as not a lot of room to bolt it in, but it is very secure as it is. I have converted an Atari Flashback 7800 joystick to work via USB by using a convertor. Also connected, an 8Bitdo wireless controller. Just for effect......I messed around with a couple of "free" retro wallpaper backgrounds and stuck my Flashback in the middle, which came out well.

Hello, For my own needs, I have converted the Atari STE schematics (6 sheets of A3/A2 size) into Kicad : 28 A4 sized pages + a table of content page, the same annotations between the original and the conversion. The release candidate (the pdf, and a tar.gz of the kicad project) is here https://github.com/sporniket/retro-computer-clean-schematics/releases/tag/c300780-001--Atari-STe-Motherboard--v1.0.0.rc1 I plan to do the final release by the end of August. If you happen to find a typo, please report to me. Regards

Hi, I'd like to present you our new game, an entry in ABBUC Software Contest 2013 - Atari XL/XE conversion of the legendary ZX Spectrum title "Deathchase" (1983) by Mervyn Estcourt. After the Great War, the European continent is ruled by mighty warlords in constant conflict over territory. You are one of the elite mercenaries, Riders of the Big Bikes. It's a quick way to get rich - and the quickest way to die... You patrol your forest day and night, chasing and destroying enemy riders. You can only fire at target when you are close enough - your range indicator will flash when you are in range. It is said that the greatest reward is kept for the rider who can penetrate 8 sectors - you will need every ounce of skill to find out... Authors: Krzysztof "xxl" Dudek - code Adam Wachowski - game design, upgrade of the original graphics Jarosław "Odyn1ec" Wyszyński - all black&white pictures (including the title screen), making of the video Michał "stRing" Radecki - music http://atarionline.pl/v01/index.php?ct=nowinki&ucat=1&subaction=showfull&id=1378492628

I got an interesting combination of video game systems and TV monitors and capture cards and I'm trying to see how they all work with each other. Anything before the Dreamcast is pretty simple take it downstairs run it on a 480i Sony Wega CRT with the highest level connection that can go through it, which is component ycbcr 3 RCA. Anything from the Xbox 360 and afterwards is also pretty simple, use the HDMI connector. Split it into two. Take one end to the CRT VGA and play through there while the other end goes to my capture card on my Macintosh. It's the Dreamcast, PS2, Xbox Prime and Game Cube that are causing me troubles. I have component hookups for the last three. I also have a SCART connector for the Dreamcast, and if that works, my other Sega systems plus my SNES would be fine through there. I also own a Mayflash component ypbpr to VGA converter. My main question is is it correct to assume that the display is the largest contributing factor the input lag? That going from ypbpr to RGB VGA is insignificant compared to that. If that's the case then probably keeping the component systems upstairs with a VGA monitor would be better than downstairs with the 480i CRT. What would be better buying equipment that could turn my SCART into VGA CRT, (which, if my understanding is right, only needs a 15 kilohertz to 31 kilohertz conversion.). Finally if I'm streaming upstairs, and my brother wants to play the switch downstairs on a big TV,. What would be the smartest way to do it? Would connecting it to the large 480i Sony Wega be the smartest move (with intermediate equipment), or buying a CRT VGA monitor and using a converter I know works already? (I know I'm pretty sensitive to input ping because I can't do combos worth a darn on Street Fighter unless I'm on a CRT TV. I noticed that when me and two other people "sing" along with the TV instrumental, I'm usually do the rhythm section and I hear sometimes the other two either lead or trail the rhythm I notice, and I'm confused whether the hum along with the TV or with my partners.) The point is I don't know how sensitive my brother is to ping so I don't know whether the cheap route of a converter is okay or weather we have to consider ping for my brother. He claims that I'm too much of a crybaby if I'm playing on an non-crt tv. The point is the downstairs HDMI is not for me because I usually game upstairs when I game in my HDMI. Finally for the upstairs TV where we're not playing light gun games, it does not have to be ultra-low ping where VCR control off a light gun aim a few pixels to the left or right. 1 milliseconds or less total is probably good enough for everything except light gun games. I know you can't play light gun games on the 31 kilohertz CRT VGA monitor anyway unless it's a PC game natively programmed think in those terms. Consoles are programmed for their timing in 15 kilohertz terms.

Hi, I'm happy to present (on behalf of the team: Xeen, stRing and myself) the preview of our little game "Assembloids XE" which is being prepared for ABBUC Software Contest 2013. It's a reflex/reaction game based on C64 "Assembloids" published by RGCD last year (http://www.rgcd.co.u...s-c64-2013.html), which in turn was based on flash game "Quartet" by Photon Storm (http://www.photonsto...m/games/quartet). What could be interesting for you, it is the first Atari game that uses a combination of GR9 and GR8 (changed every second line). So we have low resolution graphics mode with 16 luminances and we mix it with hires mode (adding PMG underlayer) which jointly gives quite unusual graphical effect. Hope you like it Programming: Marek "Xeen" Cora / Agenda Graphics: Adam Wachowski Music & sound effects: Michal "stRing" Radecki / Agenda http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjzV_DzKW_w

As many are aware, Sega Master System fans (centralized at SMS Power's forum) have long been converting Game Gear games to be compatible on the SMS using the Master Everdrive, for instance. Unrelated (you'd think), but during the 90's, Taiwanese and Korean publishers converted some MSX (originally SG-1000) games like Rally-X, Road Fighter, etc., to Master System. Why? Who knows! Well, someone discovered or obtained the software tools they used to do this. These tools have now been applied to additional MSX games with varying results. You'll have to follow the action at SMS-power, because this is all in its infancy at the moment, but cool nonetheless http://www.smspower.org/forums/16445-MSXToSMSHacks

I have a favour to ask one of the programmers here on Atari Age. I am using Omniflop to image 8 bit Atari disks , however all of the bytes in the image are inverted. Basically what has to be done is each byte has to be read in and stored, then subtract that value from 255, and write it back out to a new image. This will make all of my dumps from Omniflop for the 8 Bit Atari readable. I am enclosing a sample file, here: test.zip It would be nice if the author of Omniflop wrote the files out properly in the first place, has anyone had any success with imaging the Atari 8 Bit stuff (90K single sided)? If so what format do you use? In about 2 weeks I will not have to worry about any of this as i will have my siotopc device from Lotharek, and my 1050 disk drive will be arriving next week, I have to get my 600xl upgraded to 64 K memory or get the 800Xl I was promised. Either way that will be a week or two, I will of course get Don to install the memory upgrade in the 600xl. Thanks alot for all of anyone's help in this, it is really appreciated , probably not only by me. Russ Campbell

We have seen them a lot lately, people making multi-cades, where people have machines made with multiple titles in one machine, even original machines have been converted in this manner. its not uncommon now to find a machine, most likely with the artwork from the original, but with new internals and controls, and a board with many different games on it. My question is, how do you feel about people taking original arcade machines and converting them into multicades?

Hi everyone, It's a pretty silent time during the vacation season. Here is something to help get you through the summer. Read all about it at my blog here: https://atarilynxdeveloper.wordpress.com/2013/07/19/starting-a-new-project-hack-slash-loot/ Or watch the video, then read about the start of this. I will be updating both here and on my blog. Here are some screenshots: As always, I am interested in your ideas. Thanks.

Since stunt car racer was ported to the Atari 8 bits, Ive been wondering if Hard Drivin would be possible. Of course, if this were going to convert any existing code, it should be based off of the ZX Spectrums, or the CPCs code, and obviously not from the C64. Now, should it use 1 color 2 luminance mode 8, or should it use 4 color graphics mode 15?

Estoy con el siguiente problema, necesito convertir el hexadecimal $44000 a decimal. por ende no puedo utilizar el floating point por que este solo trabaja hasta 2 bytes y un máximo de 65335, trate de todos los medios, incluso sumando de un byte a uno y comparando hasta llegar a la igualdad, pero el proceso es demasiado lento, casi 1 minuto. He revisado revistas manuales y ninguno da señal de algún código que pueda ayudar a realizar este proceso. traduccion I am with the following problem, I need to convert the hexadecimal $ 44000 to decimal. so I can not use the floating point because it only works up to 2 bytes and a maximum of 65335, try all media, even adding one byte to one and comparing until you reach equality, but the process is too slow , almost 1 minute. I have reviewed manual journals and none gives a signal of any code that can help to carry out this process. *=$2000 M=17 MEMORY .BYTE $00,$00,$00,$9B DISPONIBLE .BYTE $00,$00,$00,$00,$00,$00,$9B CALCULO .BYTE $00,$00,$00,$00,$00,$00,$9B SUMAMOSMEMORIA LDX M SUMAMOSMEMORIA? CLC LDA MEMORY+2 ADC #$00 STA MEMORY+2 LDA MEMORY+1 ADC #$40 STA MEMORY+1 LDA MEMORY ADC #0 STA MEMORY SUMAMOSMEMORIA?? CPX #0 BEQ FINSUMAMOSMEMORIA DEX JMP SUMAMOSMEMORIA? FINSUMAMOSMEMORIA RTS INICIO LDA #0 STA 710 LOOP JMP LOOP *=$02E0 .WORD INICIO como se puede apreciar en el código tengo la variable M con un valor de 16 que realiza el bucle de SUMAMOSMEMORIA sumando de a $4000 bytes que equivale a 16384 y este resultado queda en MEMORY( $04 $40 $00) y eso quedo dejarlo como disponible ( $02,$07,$08,$05,$02,$08 ). Alguna idea de como realizar la conversión. traducción As you can see in the code I have the variable M with a value of 16 that makes the SUMAMOSMEMORIA loop adding up to $ 4000 bytes that is equivalent to 16384 and this result is in MEMORY ($ 04 $ 40 $ 00) and that is left as available ($ 02,$07,$08,$05,$02,$08). Some idea of ​​how to perform the conversion.

Lunar Jetman, awesome conversion of 1983 famous ZX Spectrum / BBC game (the source is BBC version), made by our friends Fandal and Irgendwer for FLOP diskmagazine. http://www.atarionline.pl/v01/index.php?ct=nowinki&ucat=1&subaction=showfull&id=1397471519 Click on "Stad", load disk B, enter "jetman.com".

Hello, so a while back i decided to try to convert the 1971/78 version of The Oregon Trail (OREGON) to TI-BASIC (see here, scroll down on 1st page), and i thought it would be good to post my project, and have the text files available, because i can't use my TI and such stuff as often as when i started. MY GOALS: have a finished (or at least use-able) version by year's end have compatibility with the regular ti-99/4, but special features and hints for the 4a. have both text file and audio file versions have a completely finished version by today on 2018 have a physical tape copy of the program (witch means a audio cable soon any-who) I will also let people modify the finished versions, and will post updated versions so others can add to them. P.S if you do add something, please post the version you made here.

See: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/269668-bombs-away-vcs-2600/ - for the game...

EDIT: NEVERMIND!!! I simply copied the TIFile to the DSk file and that worked. Even though when I open the DSK file called BLOCKS.DSK with the TIFILE BLOCKS copied to it, it shows up as BLOCKS.DSK so it looks like BLOCKS.DSK is a file on BLOCKS.DSK, but when I mount it as DSK1 via TI99DIR and load up TurboForth, it works! When i opened up my original BLOCKS.DSK file to see what was on it (one I created from scratch within forth) i saw anothe BLOCK.DSK file in there so i decided to try this new approach. ____________________________________________________________________ I have a TI file (Thanks Willsy) for Turboforth called BLOCKS. I want to load it on to my nanopeb CF card as a DSK file. Using TI99DIR - I created a blank dsk but everytime i attempt to copy a file to it I get a "Disk is full" error. I've attempted different formats even the 1600 special format for the CF7. I don't recall having this issue in the past (copying files back and forth in TI99DIR. so I'm kind of at a loss. I attempted to use TIImageTool but it cannot open the TIFile or the special formatted DSK file. I can create and use my own black block file using instructions Willsy provided but I'd like to start using forth with his environment since it's full of utils and demos. I'd rather not use it in emulation since I can't seem to get his TIFiles into DSK format and that would mean everything I do would be stuck in emulation. Is there a utility to convert tifiles in to dsk files that will work on the nano?

I bought the StarTech Video Converter VID2HDCON that was recommended by someone in this forum and it appears that you can't plug the Atari 800 plug directly into the composite in. What do I need to make this work. The screen shots in the post that recommended it are awesome. Thanks...

Hi Guys This is my first post here so please be gentle with me. I'm from the UK and I've recently bought a couple of Heavy Sixer's from the States. I have modded one of them with a composite video kit and it works great. However, I was wondering what else I would need to do to convert the system into a PAL unit? I've read about the TIA and how it differs so my questions are: a) Could I replace the system board only with a PAL light sixer, keeping the switch board and all other original components? Would this work? b) If I was to keep the system board and replace the TIA with a PAL unit, is there anything else I need to consider? The info on the internet I've found seems to be pretty vague. I read something about the crystal also needing replacing and maybe some other bits? Thanks in advance

Recently I coded up a program to allow converting ASCII and ATASCII files. The program is command line driven and intended for use under SpartaDOS X (earlier versions may also work). I posted this program in the Sparta DOS 4.47 topic, but am moving it here to its own. I am hoping for testing and feedback. When the program is finally done to the level of performance I am happy with, hopefully it can be made part of the SDX Toolkit. But if not, anyone will be free to add it to their own tools collection as they see fit. So, download it and give it a try if you like. Keep the following program usage in mind because right now, very little user entry validation is performed. It is therefore important that you spell out your device:filename entries. AAC (ASCII ATASCII Converter) is designed to copy a source text file to a destination text file, doing a text translation in the process. Only the output format is specified. It will be assumed the input file will be the opposing type. For example, if an ASCII, (either DOS/Win or Unix) output translation is used, then the input file is assumed to be in ATASCII form. Usage: AAC <source> <dest> /[T|A|U|H] /T = convert to ATASCII /A = convert to ASCII (DOS/Win) /U = convert to ASCII (Unix) /H = this help summary Eg: X AAC.EXE D1:COOLINFO.ASC D2:COOLINFO.TXT /T If using COMEXE you can get by with this: AAC D1:COOLINFO.ASC D2:COOLINFO.TXT /T Download the program.