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Found 13 results

  1. Has anyone ever made a Pantone PMS color set for the Vectrex CRT Phosphor color at various brightness control levels? Visible low. Medium. Bright without blanked lines. Very Bright with everything shown. Very Bright with everything shown.
  2. Picked up an Atari 1040 STe with a SC1224 Color monitor used (craigslist) for a good price. It has been working all fine and dandy except a couple odd issues. The volume knob is Glitchy in that it only sometimes works and the sound will cut out and after about 20 minutes of usage.. The thing just REEKS!!! as in the entire apartment smells like "stale burnt popcorn" as someone in the chat room so eloquently suggested. This really makes me sad the monitor is a cute little thing and I wanted to enjoy it for long periods of time without worry. The smell is so strong that even after opening a window with a fan on the highest setting blowing on it, it is still lingering there. I'm getting worried the damn thing might even explode so it can't be too safe to use plus the smell is causing me migraine headaches.
  3. I have the chance -maybe less than 50 euros/dollars/pounds- to acquire one sony pvm crt monitor 20n5e, just for playing. Does anyboy have experience plugging a old console to this model? is it worth it? I do guess I'll need special cables for it to start with. Thank you
  4. Hey guys I'm going to try and make a long story short. back in Jaunary I got a broken Vectrex. I was told it had alignment issues. I trouble shooted and even replaced a few IC chips and got no results. Well today I repaired my Sega Mega Drive which got me motivated. So, here I am. The main problem is that the vectors displayed on my monitor don't connect and form what they should be. I shot a video to show exactly what I mean. Any help is appreciated. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQU7EVS3rho&list=UU3dpEsu_UykWMc9nPHdHwIg
  5. Looking for an Atari SC1435 crt monitor or the swivel stand (pedestal) alone. I need the stand firstly, so okay for me a faulty one crt (or brokened...). All solutions are interested for me. Pictures:
  6. I have only one CRT that play all my pre 480i signal system well, a Sanyo TV flat screen CRT (and my 1979 Hitachi that do a bit of color bleed and can't be seen well now in the day as the black is now light gray). If that one die i am screwed. On a Sony trinitron (and my RCA-thompson TVs) only the C64 display ok (perhaps that is 480i also). All 240p system show different "dotted" horizontal section 1 pixel high that seem to be influenced by color or contrast (on edges mostly). In 2600 pacman, the first line of the screen is all doted and some pixel can be seen in some places. In outrun on genesis, the top line of the windshield is dotted. I can't seem to find a solution to allow all my systems to display fine on all my CRTs. It's already a pain to shop for one, imagine shopping for one not creating the problem. Trying to pass the signal into VCR don't help. I suspect some kind of interference with 2 identical line of a 240p signal with a slight delay between them. I can't seem to see signal processor for sale that do 240p composite to 480i composite. I also only see 240p to HDMI and never 240p to 480p without and hdmi out. Lot of my CRT (later ones) have a 480p (component connections) even if they are 4:3 but i would love a solution for those that are only s-video or composite IN.
  7. Hi folks, my first post on this venerable forum. My teenage self from ~3 decades ago would probably be dismayed by knowing I've joined something with "Atari" in its name - I was a die hard ZX Spectrum/Commodore fan - but hey, times, they're a-changin' Anyway, I was wondering if anybody else here has experience with using CRT TVs for emulated micros. I'm using mostly libretro versions of assorted emus (Retropie on RPi 3B+) and it's a bit puzzling getting the display right - I'm confined to composite (I also do have an RGB mod but no compatible TV at the moment), and also to add to the problem, it's a NTSC set. I'm not 100% sure what are correct resolutions to use in the configs. I'm aiming for 1:1 pixels and artifact-free display - so far using these... Atari 800 - 640x480- native libretro setting: this looks pretty good actually Amstrad: 768x544 - it works fairly well despite being bigger than RPi 720x480 output, the border is sacrificed C64: lr-vice same as Amstrad: 768x544. Seems ok. ZX Spectrum: 640x480: this resolution kicks in when I disable border (to get rid of heavy NTSC artifacting) While these look reasonably good, they do not really match the resolutions from real machines I read about, eg C64 displaying 402x292 (or 320x200 with no border) http://codebase64.org/doku.php?id=base:visible_area Could this be improved somehow? Or are these really real resolutions? Is there any sort of way to display these without problems on NTSC as well? Games are either too fast in NTSC or jerky in PAL, plus on some micros the colours are out of whack. Even though some of the emus have option for NTSC machines.
  8. Already having discussed the problem we have (http://www.atariage....2/#entry2659435) when trying to use the raw video output, straight RGB values coming from a NTSC A7800, in a palette for emulators which lack proper NTSC video emulation (especially YUV/YIQ support), what will be accomplished here is taking YUV/YIQ achieved colors turn them 'vibrant' and make hard RGB values from them. In that same thread here... http://www.atariage....2/#entry2659624... you'll notice that true NTSC/YIQ/YUV simulation created multiple shade for each color value. So we will take some of the greater values and make a VIBRANT palette from it. The palette will be bright and brilliant respecting red against green, and blue will be stronger relative to the RAW palette or even a default derived YUV palette. Again this is to simulate the colors many NTSC users likely saw from their analog CRT TV's favoring more vibrance. This end result being limited with just an RGB palette and no further video controls working off the RAW palette from the previously linked thread. MESS is closer to ideal: http://www.atariage....2/#entry2660238 but I know many like using ProSystem and wanted to provide this for the community. Here is the NTSC_A7800_YUV_VIBRANT palette and color chart: NTSC_A7800_YUV_VIBRANT.zip
  9. I think I found a way to enjoy better gaming for every RF ntsc based later system, except for the few light gun games for the 7800 2600 which don't work when converted to computer monitors. I got something called an MTV box which takes RF input and converts it to VGA output. there are two different VGA ports a circular one and a keystone one and a cord that goes from one to the other I assume those two are functionally identical. The main issue I have is the RF port. I tried using an F-Type male and an F-Type female and neither worked. Someone at Best Buy told me it was a BNC female connector. I bought a BNC male connector it does not fit. unfortunately Best Buy does not let you send pictures to their help to help diagnose something. Thankfully atariage does, though it's staffed by volunteers which could be a good thing. It is for something I found called an MTVBox. This weird antennas standard is preventing me from enjoying it. If someone wants me to, I can take a picture of the standard and showing you that BNC male does not fit nor does F-Type male nor does F-Type female.
  10. Hello, I am trying to test a quick game of Combat's Tank Pong on Atari 2600 and I have an issue with rolling on both my CRTs. They are both Magnavox and I do not have the remotes anymore, or if I do, I have no clue where they are. http://imgur.com/0KNV24k,nxEnm5L,Yu5gFdc,OWKikOf Here are some pictures for reference. I've looked up the black one and couldn't find anything useful on it. If any of you have either of these, could you tell me if they've got any hidden settings anywhere in the menus that I'm not seeing or am I screwed and I will need to seek out a dial tv? I've even tried hooking it up to the hdtv next to them and it doesn't receive the analog signal even though it says it picks it up which is weird. Another thing, too. I know I can remove the backs from CRTs and risk electrical shock adjusting something back there, but I'd rather get into the super difficult electronic repairs as a last resort if I can't fix it any normal way or find a tv that can.
  11. I'm trying to restore an arcade cabinet from 1983. The CRT monitor is shot and honestly, I'd rather have an LED/LCD screen in it's place. (Don't get me wrong, CRT, when working, looks great) I don't know much about how to connect the monitor and most of what I see out there has DVI and/or VGA ports which are clearly not going to connect on an old system arcade cabinet like this. Will this work? https://na.suzohapp.com/products/accessories/49-3223-01 Does this need an adapter to connect it to the arcade machine? Thanks!
  12. I'm just wondering if other people felt as I do. Like for example in Street Fighter 4, I noticed I was able to pull off dragon punches with my left hand, when before only a right-handed joystick could pull it off for me. And also does it seem like combos were easier to execute in Street Fighter 3 and before, despite the fact they were not given to you, yet in Street Fighter 4 they give you monster combos and the only way a reasonable person can unlock them is by practicing against a dummy. So it seems like they eased up on joystick accuracy, and in return weekend special moves, while they made button accuracy more important, compounding it by knowing lots of people play on a non crt tv, and paid it off with unblockable combos of Killer Instinct length and power, yet KI has a breaker as a combo defense, and SF doesn't. But it's not just fighters. Before December 2012, I was playing on a component CRT and was doing pretty well in Super Meat Boy. But as soon as I switched to a Sony PlayStation 3D TV, which was considered one of the better modern TVs at the time, I sort of lost the consistent feel to make consistent progress and I'm stuck on the last level before the final boss. Now the question becomes is HDMI naturally laggy, or could you transfer an HDMI signal to a CRT monitor and have sub microsecond ping? First of all, for most games, I don't need ping that accurate. if I need something that accurate I'll do my light gun streams downstairs and leave everything else upstairs. As a test, I tried an HDMI signal both through a Hauppauge Rocket and directly, and noticed no difference. And Hauppauge claims a maximum of one millisecond ping. Yet I noticed if I hook up an analog VCR in between the game and the TV, the light gun's aim gets thrown off a few pixels to the right. Finally I have a test to see whether those 1 millisecond gray-to-gray monitors can pass my quick ping test that I can only do on a CRT monitor,. and that's getting a Michael Larson like score on a flash version of Press Your Luck. I tried it Best Buy at first I thought I failed but I found out that that app adds delay. I got to find the earliest version, with no ping added. So for now, TN monitors are inconclusive if they're low ping enough. Plus I read the real delay is 10 milliseconds on most of them. Based on this test it seems resolution change and TV drawing technology contribute most to delay. I bought 2000 era CRT VGA monitor and I'm trying to figure out whether it's better just as an HDMI low-paying alternative, or weather lower-resolution consoles pre HDMI are better on a real CRT TV versus converting from composite component S-Video or RF to VGA. Most people say if you go from HDMI to VGA CRT that the screen is squished and you have to use manual monitor controls to get it in the proper a show yet letterboxed. Now the question becomes how well does a VGA CRT monitor work for classic gaming. In the two biggest issues are ping (for the purposes of playing anything except light gun games and maybe Sega scope games), and the look of the TV image second. First probably this would all be moot if the monitor does not have multiple settings so I could switch between native 4 by 3 and native 16 by 9 input to a 16 by 9 output very easily. Keep my mind it's going directly from a classic video game output to a VGA with no computer processor in the middle as far as I could tell. And if a processor was used, would that add enough delay to throw off a non light gun game.(I'm okay with throwing off a light gun game. I'll move to a more direct TV if that's the case.) I've seen my old iMac do a fairly clean picture to a Sony wega when an S-Video cable is plugged into the back of my iMac. And it beat the Monitor and I was able to play Press Your Luck and get a Larson like score. But some people say taking a 480i or 240p Game source and pumping it in VGA makes very big scan lines therefore are hard to play when the black sections are bigger than the colored. Also before I read about other stuff I found for cheap three of the four scart cables I need for Genesis, SNES, Saturn and Dreamcast, the only four systems that could do scart natively without a mod. AndI found a SCART to 3 RCA red green blue connector. How do I tell if the three RCA is RGB or ypbpr? and how do I tell if the system scart cable or the scarf to 3 RCA connector is for the true European SCART or the Japanese equivalent? I heard they're physically the same but plug the wrong one in and TVs could get burnt.
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