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Found 5 results

  1. There I was, in garage sale heaven. Standing over a box of second hand XBOX controllers. I got a little less excited when I noted how second hand they were. I thought I would salvage parts and asked, "How much?". She said, "$2". I said, "OK." He looked like he just lost an old friend and his wife was telling herself, "I should have said 3!" Fast forward 16 months and I'm sorting them into a box labeled "electronic recycle" because I was to lazy to open them up for salvage. One did catch my eye, it was an undersize wireless controller that made me think, "Can the d-pad and a trigger button be wired to plug into my Atari?" Fast forward another couple of months and I'm playing Star Raiders with an XBOX Controller. At least one got saved from the landfill. -------------------------------------------------------------------- These photos were taken for reference. 1 - The controller was a 2.4 Ghz wireless MadCatz. (Receiver not avalible.) 2 - The main board after removing the transmitter and battery holder. 3 - Removed 2 screws and lifted the D-pad. 4 - Cut off existing wires. 5 - Solder wire for up, down, left, right, and Ground (common). Note wire colors, mine not standard. 6 - Contacts in placed and wires routed. One of the cross pieces in the plastic bracket needed to be remove for the board to sit flat. Solder joint interference. 7 - Cut a notch in case for CX40 cable. 8 - Solder 2 wires for trigger switch. One for the trigger pin and one for the ground. (solder joints are for a different design that didn't work so well. They didn't need to be moved.) 9 - Clean off resistive material across B contacts and solder micro switch as close to center as you can. Be sure the plunger will make contact with button. (the wires could have been soldered to the push button switch and glued into place.) 10 - Solder leads to joystick cable. UP-Pin1, Down - Pin2, Left - Pin3, Right - Pin4, Trigger - Pin6, and other side of trigger and common on d-pad - Pin8. 11 - Because the push button was to high, the plunger needed to sanded shorter. 12 - On the upper case, the button guide required some material removal to keep from depressing the switch. 13 - Put the case together. Be sure wires are not pinched or interfering with button movements. The case was opened and closed several times to make modification before the trigger reliably worked. I was really close to giving up. There was a bit of lucky with the d-pad. This joystick tester came in handy. I think it saved me more time then it took to build it.
  2. Hi, I have restarted my old company: Awesome Arcades. Its now selling Atari styled USB versions of the CX40 joysticks, Desktop arcade controls (So far I've only posted up the 7800 versions (Left & Right hand) and I need to update the photo's as they include built in paddle controls as well. I'll be posting on in the coming days the 2600 version, USB versions and some specialized desktop arcade controls like a dedicated Asteroids control panel for both 9 pin game/computer consoles and a USB version. I have a Missile Command one but I am awaiting the special buttons to make it arcade realistic. So, if you are interested, please stop by the site, sign up for an account and make a purchase, thanks. https://thejoystickshop.com Here are some of the products:
  3. I'd like to buy a NEW/un-used Atari 2600 CX-40 controller. Thanks!
  4. I rebuilt a couple of CX40 joysticks tonight using the gold plated PCB boards from Best Electronics. Of course I also replaced the orange fire button, the fire button spring, the white inner handle and the black outer handle cover. The gold plated PCBs and new handles have a great feel to them. I played a few games of Centipede to take them for a test spin. More and more I am finding that the four rubber feet and even the black outer handle cover are turning to that black inky goo like the 410 drive belts and the 1027 printer heads. Now I need to find some more worn out CX40s to rebuild! Bill
  5. I would like to convert one of my Atari CX40 joysticks to left-handed play for my sister. I'm guessing all I have to do is swap the wiring around on the PCB and that should do it, no? I know there used to be a wiring adapter for this but I'm okay with the permanent modification. Is this modification possible? Thanks, Andy
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