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Found 24 results

  1. I've been in possession of a C64 with a 1541 drive for a while now, with very little complaints. However recent games I have purchased for it are making me question if I have bad disks or a stubborn drive. When I began using the drive for the first time - probably the first time the drive has been used in years - it would take 3-4 tries per disk in order to get it working. I even had a mint in the box copy of Space Harrier that I had to try loading a handful of times before it would work. But this would happen with a small handful of disks until they started loading on the first try, and they have been ever since. Most of the disks I've acquired loaded perfectly the first time I took a look at them. However, I'm somewhat concerned about certain disks I have, and I'm not sure if the drive is being stubborn, or if the disks are going bad. Here's what I've documented so far: Ghostbusters - Game works perfectly fine, but on the "Activision" load screen, the drive makes loud grinding / clicking noises, the kind it makes if you try to load a disk and you get a disk read error on the DOS screen. It makes this noise twice, then it goes silent for a while, then it makes it one last time a few moment before the title screen appears. I assumed it was normal, but now not so much. The game loads and plays perfectly fine, so I wasn't sure if it was part of the loading process or not. It's not a pleasant sound, regardless. Back to the Future Part 2 - I am able to get the title screen to load, with the intro animation and music, but when I hit the fire button, the screen goes into that color-changing loading state before it goes white. I can hear the disk spinning, but the head stops moving. It spins for a good few minutes before stopping altogether, leaving me locked on the white screen. A couple of times the screen went from white to black, but other than the color change, zero difference was made in how the drive behaved. Today I decided to try it again, and while it got stuck on the white screen, the drive kept on spinning. Another try brought me back to the DOS screen, which remained completely blank. Castle Wolfenstein: game appears to run fine, but I think I get a clue as to what's up with the disk drive. When I start a new game, on the second text intro screen, the drive makes that clicking noise, but only for a moment. The drive stops completely and at the bottom I get: Disk Error #20 read error, 30,16 Press any key to RETRY Luckily I got my hands on the 1541 manual...it says #20 means "Block header not found", so I assume memory blocks 30 and 16 are unreadable for one reason or another After pressing a key, then the game loads / plays normally. I played through the first few screens and tried to save the game, which did not work. The drive does the same thing as it did when loading a new game, making that momentary clicking noise, and then stopping. I get the following: Disk Error # ...which I find odd, since this gives me no reference number. Loading a previous save is like a dark joke, it appears to load normally, but what I get is a blank room. No doors, keys, or anything. Just you all by yourself, with ten bullets and a grenade. Kinda creepy. So yeah, I'm not sure what's going on, but I want to at least have an idea before I decide to dismantle the whole thing.
  2. Karin Maxi 3.5 drive can increase the capacity to 980K, 24 sectors per track. How do I do that?
  3. Has the Percom AT-88 Doubler ROM ever been dumped?
  4. I have two extra 1050 drives I would like to sell because I have one now with a Happy enhancement. I bought both of these from eBay listed as untested for parts or repair. One turned out to work and the other I repaired. The one I repaired has a new pressure pad and 74LS74 chip. Both have been tested using the 1050 diagnostics program as well as testing formatting, writing, reading disks. Tested reading disks formatted with other drives, so alignment should be good. Asking $70 plus shipping for each. I have the shield off the one I worked on. I could install a Happy enhancement in it before putting it back together for an extra $45. If bought as is, I will reinstall the shield.
  5. I was testing an 810 drive yesterday and initially I thought it was broken. I had the slide switches set for drive ID 3 and it was not responding. But I decided to test all drive IDs and I found that the drive always thinks it is drive 1. Using it as drive 1 seems to work ok. I was able to make a boot floppy and save/load some test files. Has anyone else seen this? If I clean the switches will it fix the problem? Or are there other fixes I should perform like maybe installing new switches?
  6. Presenting my latest experiment, a test program to check what FDC status codes are returned by an Atari-compatible drive when attempting to read various kinds of bad sectors. It's a test disk containing one of every kind of stable abnormal sector and a test program that reads each sector to retrieve the FDC status code. The reason for this test is to improve ATX image cross-compatibility and compatiblity against software that looks for specific FDC error codes, especially codes that are specific to disk drive models. I'd be very interested in hearing what other people see on their hardware, but fair warning: it's not easy to create the physical test disk for this, as you can't write it with a stock 810/1050. I've attached it in ATX and SCP form. The ATX image will work for emulators, but a8rawconv 0.92 cannot write it correctly due to some bugs in address CRC error handling in the encoder. For that reason I've also included a pre-encoded SuperCard Pro (SCP) image, which is index-aligned for easier writing. It might be possible to copy it with one of the modded drives, but that would presume you already had a physical disk to copy from. Below are expected results for a 1050 and XF551. They're from an emulator, but I've checked them against the real drives; I'm just too lazy to get out my camera. A few interesting results I've already seen: The XF551 doesn't report missing sector errors, apparently due to a quirk in the 1772 FDC and the way the XF551 reads status. The command fails but the FDC status is $FF (no error). Some disk protection references report that the DRQ bit (bit 2) can be negated when a lost data condition is reported on a 1050, but all tests that I've run have always shown DRQ and Lost Data activated together. Several disk drive types don't seem to report long sector errors at all, including the Indus GT and Percom. This is because their sector read loops simply read the entire physical sector instead of the expected sector size. This is potentially interesting as it may offer a way to get custom code onto drives that don't natively support it via buffer overflow with a 1K sector. disktest.zip
  7. SOLD For Sale: Indus GT for Atari 8-bit machines. Tested, fully working, smoked door intact. The whole unit is very nice. Sorry I just realized the pictures are out of focus. If you need better pics, let me know. Has all the disks with their manuals, plus the overall disk drive manual. I rarely see one of these for sale with all of the disks and manuals... in their original Indus sleeves too. Has original working power supply with the "For use with Indus GT only" sticker wrapped around the input side. No disappointments here... goes great with your 800xl, 1200xl or any other Atari computer. $100 plus actual shipping. I'll double box it and pack it carefully. Prefer cash (PayPal), but will consider trades, tell me what you have, I'll tell you if I'm intersted!
  8. My 810 is having some problems... surprise, huh? Well, it's able to READ disks thoroughly since it boots into DOS 2.5 no problem. The trouble comes when I try formatting disks. The drive head goes all the way to track 1 as you would normally expect and works its way to the edge of the disk closest to the spindle hole, but after that it very slowly starts to work its way back, maybe taking one step every 15 seconds. Eventually it'll stop and go all the way back to track 1 and repeat the process endlessly, eventually spitting out error - 173. I've tried lightly cleaning the drive head with alcohol and a Q-tip to no avail.
  9. I found an Ohio Scientific disk drive with a Model of C1PMF in my garage that I forgot I even had. I can't seem to find anything about it on the internet. I don't believe the I have the C1P computer itself, (I think I would have remembered that.) so I have no way to test if it is still functional. I did clean it up and I opened it up to see what is inside. It has just the floppy disk drive and a power supply. I tested the power supply and found that the 5V and 12V are still good. I thought for sure the drive would have a bad drive belt but it seems to have a direct drive motor. It is a double sided 5 1/4 inch, half height drive. I was able to find some information on the drive itself, which is a Mitsubishi M4853. It's a little unusual as it is double sided, double density, but it has 80 tracks. There are only 16 sectors per track so total formatted capacity is 640K. Does anybody know if these were standard drives for the Challenger C1P?
  10. Greetings! I've got a small lot of Atari drives that I'm selling. Atari 1050s: Two that are complete, one that is just the board. They all power up, but two won't read disks. There is a drive for the board, but the cable to the read head is severed. Atari 810s: Two that are in good physical condition and one that was disassembled (and a couple of cracks in the body/case). Like the 1050's they power up, but haven't read a disk since our move. All drive power up, and the disk does the initial spin. Drives attempt to read the disks, but eventually fail (disk read error). Most have power supplies included (or not, your choice). Price - $20 each or make offer. You can choose all or some. Will work a deal for for multiple drives or the lot. Available to local, or anyone willing to pay the shipping and some packing materials. Shipping from North Carolina, 28078. I'll get pictures up and post them soon. If there's no interest here, I will post on eBay next. Poe
  11. just got me a working PEB complete with 2 old TI full high drives of indeterminate functionality. I have been trying to initialize a disk on the drives and I get error 16 (not recognizing the drive or disk). the drive spins up on both when initializing and the light comes on but then I get that error after a minute or so in Disk Manager 2. Now the problem is all I have is double density/ double sided disk to test with. would i get an error like that with 2D/2S disk formatting? do I need to get some single sided disk to test it with (which are hard to find)?
  12. The question is in the title. Are PCF 554 drives compatible with 8-bit Atari systems? What I've read so far points to the drive being only compatible with the PC line, but I can't find a definitive answer.
  13. This has got me stumped. I recently purchased a 520STfm from a guy on Craigslist who said it "worked the last time he used it." I also scored an SC1224 monitor (one of the Goldstar monitors with the hardwired cable) for $7 at a thrift shop that same week, which was a massive steal as far as I'm concerned. I finally got some time to mess around with the two items a couple weeks ago. The monitor was seriously maladjusted, but after about an hour of fiddling with the pots on the back, I got the image to stabilize and sync. The monitor, now that it's adjusted, appears to work great, but now that I can see the image from the computer, I'm wondering what's wrong. I get a solid green screen with a series of cyan-blue lines running in parallel down the screen (I've attached a couple images to show what I'm talking about-- apologies for the phone-pic quality). No bombs, but just a green screen with some weird lines. I've also noticed that the disk drive doesn't seem to make any noise or recognize any disks, so I'm not sure if it's dead or not. I did completely disassemble the 520 and manually pressed down on each socketed chip, thinking maybe the ROMs had come unseated. I did not, however, completely remove the ROMs, clean the pins and sockets, and reseat (maybe I should have?) The issue persisted even after I did this. Any ideas what could be causing this? The possibly-faulty disk drive? ROM troubles? Some adjustment on the monitor that I neglected? Something else I haven't considered? I'm hoping someone has seen this issue before and knows what's going on... Thanks in advance
  14. I'm looking for an original brown cover for the Atari 1050 disk drive. Located in PA.
  15. I've OCRed the Speedy 1050 v1.0 source code to a text file. The original file you can find here: https://atariwiki.org/wiki/attach/CompyShop%20Speedy%20Upgrades/Speedy1050%20Anwenderhandbuch%20und%20ROM%20Listing.pdf There are probably some typos but I think it is possible to compile the source w/o errors (I hope). As there is no dump of this version online, it would be great if this is possible. Speedy 1050 v1.0 (16.10.1986) by Compy-Shop ROM-Listing.txt
  16. The XF551B PCB is a reproduction of the XF551's drive PCB that was sold by 8bitdomain for somewhat limited quantities a few years ago. There's a photo of it here. Failing that, I'll take a whole XF551 drive, working or not. Heck, I'll take just an original XF551 drive PCB (the crappy single-sided one), working or not.
  17. I have an Atari 130XE and 2 disk drives that work fine. I added and 3rd and 4th, however, even with the switches set as 3 & 4 on the new drives I can access them. They work fine if I switch them to 1&2. Is there some limit on the 130XE or version of DOS. I have Atari DOS 2.0 and 2.5. Also when using a SIO2SD card reader (from Lotharek- which emulates up to 15 drives) it still won't see but drives 1 & 2. Any help? thanks DevDude
  18. I recently picked up an Atari 1050, whatever disk I put in results in a slow scrolling boot error. I am currently running it on an atari xegs. I don't know if this is an issue with the disk drive, the Atari XEGS, none my floppys work, or maybe my power supply is incorrect, if you have any advice that would be awesome.
  19. I'm looking to add a Commodore 1541-II drive to my collection. I have an extra Commodore 1571 floppy drive in good, working condition that I would like to trade for a 1541-II drive in good working condition. Here are some pictures of my 1571 drive: I've been using the drive without issue. The performance test completes successfully. The alignment test shows good alignment as well. I'd want to trade with someone who's willing to carefully pack and protect the drive for shipping. If you happen to be near the metro Atlanta area, I could meet-up somewhere to swap to avoid shipping.
  20. Dear all, I've indulged myself with a great new 3"1/2 disk drive that I bought from "Sell My Retro". Until I can find and afford a true XF351 prototype, I'm truly happy with this disk drive. It's a hand-made clone of the XF551, with a 3"1/2 mechanism. I got it with a bootable DOS II+ disk (Stefan Dorndorf). It works fine. I tried to operate the drive with the SpartaDOS X cartridge, and formatted a 720kb disk, fine! Now, I'd like to get your expertise: SpartaDOS X allows me to format the diskette but not to make it bootable with a copy of the DOS... For a 3"1/2 disk drive, what do you think would be the best DOS, to create "bootable", 720kb formatted 3"1/2 diskettes? I would also like to get any documentation about this motherboard, to figure out what this J6 section (S1/S2/SIDE/STEP/DIR/TR00/VCC) is useful for. Thank you! Laurent (I've got more pictures of the drive and its motherboard if anyone is interested)
  21. Hi guys, I am having a strange problem. I have a Happy modified 1050 drive and it will no longer read/format dual density disks. I can still read disks that were formatted in single density, but that's it. This just happened out of the blue after transferrring some disks using APE. I unplugged the APE device and turned the Happy mode off and it still is doing the same thing. Any thoughts on why this is happening and how I can fix it?
  22. Hey All...I found this Guy who does reapair on ALL Atari based 5 1/4 drives. He will be working on my IndusGT. Paul Alhart's E:mail: [email protected] >Paul
  23. Hey Guys! It has been quite a while for me to be out and about, but I am starting to get my Retro juice flowing again. Recently I acquired the Percom RFD44-S2 that was listed on Ebay. It is a strange beast, but since I had one of these boards back in the day, I have been waiting to get my hands on one. I knew full well it was going to arrive in non-working condition. I was correct, save for the after market fan that someone mounted to the back of the case due to the heat issues these had, and hell with 2 full height drives (Which brand I have never heard of) it probably was able to fry an egg. But that isn’t what I am concerned about at the moment. As with all Percoms, I replaced all 3 Voltage regulators (even though the top two were fine.) The RFD is the model that has those sockets for the regulators what was always an issue. (Had an issue with mine back in the 80s as well). I cleaned the contacts on the Sockets reinstalled the board and I got some life out of the old drives. They just spin and keep spinning for maybe 3-4 minutes and stop. I knew from the AT-88 that I fixed up that this was not proper behavior but I gave it a shot and plugged it into my 130 XE. Nothing. Not really a surprise here. So, i checked the caps, they were all showing “something” on my multimeter. I don’t have an ESR meter so I couldn’t properly test them. So I had some 33uF 16V caps from the AT-88 project so I swapped out all the 33uF caps. Four in all. Plugged it back in and the same result. Check the caps, the top two over by the regulators show ok, the third one down shows OL. However, if I pull it from Circuit it shows fine. The one on the opposite side of the SIO ports shows high capacitance in circuit but fine when pulled out (not too much of a Surprise). So I am stumped. I checked my Diodes, most of the time they show fine, sometimes when I check them they give me a strange reading but for the most part I think they are ok. I didn’t pull the two big Caps (I think they are filters) but in circuit after discharge they seem to show proper capacitance. I did check the transformer it seems to be pushing the right voltage (from what I can tell) and the correct voltage appears to be running thru the caps. (5 and 12 volts). So Now I turn to you, does anyone have any clue as to where my fault is. I am not electronically trained but I can fumble my way around. I have included a bunch of pictures and a video showing the diodes. Thanks in advanced! Craig Percom_RFD_Photos.zip
  24. I bought a PEB about 15 years ago on EBay with the hopes of someday getting a TI994/A setup going, but never had a computer to run it with until recently. I haven't started it up yet and wanted to ask a couple questions before I do. It hasn't been powered in the time I've had it, and I'm guessing some time before that. Is there any pre-work I should do on it before I apply power to it? Test out caps or pre-replace components? I don't want to power it on and have it blow itself up. The PEB is pretty well loaded up with a Disk Controller, 32K Ram Card, RS232 Card, the Flex cable interface, and a CorComp TripleTech Card with a speech synth card installed on it. Is there any risk the cards may damage the unit or vice versa if they are out of order? It also has a clear problem with its floppy drive. The little door you latch down seems to have been knocked off the front and into it, wedged between the drive circuit board and the metal frame of the drive door. I can't figure out how to get the drive out for the life of me. I've removed the four screws (2 under the top cover on the top of the drive cage, and 2 on the bottom side of the unit). It moves around in the cage after that but won't fit out the front that I can see. How the heck do you get the drive out? Thanks in advance!
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