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Found 8 results

  1. I've seen USB adapters for connecting Atari 2600 paddle controllers to a PC, but what about connecting USB optical mice to a real Atari to use as paddles? I'm interested in trying a regular wired USB optical mouse or PC wired USB optical trackball for controlling paddle games - not only would it give a different gaming experience than paddles, but optical controllers would also be "jitter proof". I have already made my own spinner controllers for MAME and Stella on the computer very simply, by duct-taping an optical mouse against a shaft (such as a wood dowel, or a wood dowel through a section of foam pool noodle) connected to a knob, and it works beautifully. So I am curious about making an adapter using an Arduino or Raspberry Pi or similar, that you can plug the mouse into, and outputs the variable resistances that would emulate a real paddle controller on the 2600. (The paddle button would be a simple matter of wiring the button to the appropriate pins.) Has anyone tried this, seen a page on this, or got any idea how a microcontroller might output the resistance range (1M ohm) that a native 2600 paddle controller would?
  2. Maybe someone can help me solve a few small problems I'm coming across. I'm following this schematic/description -- https://gamesx.com/controldata/psxcont/psxcont.htm#CIRCUIT I think I figured it out...mostly. He leaves a lot to be deciphered, lol. I'm drawing up a schematic in KiCAD right now, and I only have a few questions: 1. The DATA pin of the controller plug connects to SER OUT, correct? 2. Where does the COMMAND pin of the controller plug connect to? I must've re-read the entire page 15 times and still can't decipher where COMMAND goes. 3. Are the 74HC165 pins not associated with buttons (A1-A8, B1-B8, etc.) left with no connection? Or do they share a connection? COMMAND, maybe? Thanks in advance!
  3. Anyone interested in step-by-step instructions for making your own 2600-style boxes with full-color-print? I talking about real physical boxes, not only images. I own a printing-company and can make those boxes with instruction booklets and inlay (minimum quantity 50, pm me if you're publishing your own game), but I can also provide a step-by-step instruction for making your own (if you need just one or a few). It will look like this: It'll be quite a bit of work to put the instructions together, but if there's enough people interested, I'll do it. Post what you think. Thanks.
  4. A while back I was trying to figure out a way to daisy chain both my sio2pc devices just because I was sick of disconnecting and reconnecting them. I do switch between the two depending on what im trying to do. I started a thread but never really got the answers I needed. Then a little while back at a thrift store I found something that gave me some inspiration. It's a belkin data switch from 1999 (good news its y2k compliant). It's just a parallel port switcher but I figured I could turn it into an sio switch for my sio2pc rs232 and my sio2pc usb. So I did. I just hooked up the switch at the sio end of both my sio2pc devices. Anyway I thought I'd show it off just cuz I think its pretty sweet. So here are some pics. Also I was wondering if anyone knew how to put an led on an sio2pc device using the 14c89 chip. Id kinda like to have a little led above each of the two inputs that gets all blinky when I'm transferring data. That would be really sweet.
  5. Hi, I'm working on a bankswitch card that supports multigames. I first made a normal 4k multicard using a 27C256 that holds 8 games, for testing purposes. Easy to make, and it worked fine... Because I have my own programmer, but not an UV eraser, I wanted to use a 29F010 EEprom that can be electrically erased. The pinout of this is (almost) the same as a 27C010. So I copied a few ROM's together and programmed the EEprom, but for some reason that didn't work on my Atari 2600. I used my programmer to read back the ROM file out of the chip, and tested it in Stella (32 in 1). That worked fine, so there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with programmed chip. Does anyone here have any experience using EEproms for DIY cartridges or mulitgame card, and what is the difference between using a EEprom and a normal Eprom (because the normal Eprom is working fine). Many thanks !!
  6. Hi everyone, I wired up a little 2k/4k multicart that uses a 74LS04 for a CE hex inverter. It works with the AMD 29F010A-90PC and with some minor wiring changes, the smaller Atmel 28C64-15PC However, it will NOT work with the Atmel 29C010A-12PC and I've tried several. Sometimes I get a glimpse of the game screen before it blanks out. An older post http://atariage.com/forums/topic/21851-2732-eeprom-and-problem-with-6-switch-atari/?do=findComment&comment=240804 describes a similar problem (though I have a 4 switcher) and he solved it by using a 7406 inverter. Before I take a chance on that inverter does anyone know what might be causing this problem? I'm trying to understand why it would effect the 120ns chip but not the 90 or 150? I really would like to use these chips since I have a few lying around. Many thanks.
  7. hey all, new to the forum but have been creeping wtihout being a member for a while now.. a few months ago i bought a 7800 system without any cables or controllers, i had the video, ordering the power was easy enough, but given the general review of the proline controller, i decided to build my own controller from arcade parts. seems to have worked out okay for the most part, the 2600 and 2600 games recognize the controller right off. i used http://atariage.com/forums/topic/219466-diy-7800-arcade-stick-help/this post as a rough guide, including the pinout incorporated therein. the major difference is the base wire i'm using is chopped up cat5e, mostly because its what i had laying around the house. now for the particulars, i have 620 ohm resistors in the ground wires for each of the two buttons, and diodes in the lines running to pins 5 and 9. without the diodes i get a weird auto fire feature mentioned elsewhere in the forums. the ground wire for each button has its own line running to pin 8. as far as i can tell everything is wired "correctly" based against info found elsewhere in the forums. so thats good.... except using xevious as a test cart, i can use my joystick, but not the buttons. like i said running it against seaquest using the 7800... everything works fine. xevious or asteroids for the 7800... get me nothing. interesting side note, joust, robotron, and galaga all seem to work fine from what i can tell any ideas on what went wrong?
  8. Hi All, As some of you may have noticed, I've been writing a series of DIY Atari 8-bit hardware articles for Excel magazine. For Issue #4 (due soon) I've contributed articles on both the Pixels Past 8k and 16k EPROM based cartridges, and also building instructions for my own latest design, the UnoCart. Building your own UnoCart is not massively difficult and involves just a small amount of easy (thru-hole) soldering. The key item is a STM32F407 Discovery board, which is readily available from most electronics suppliers for <£20. Using an off the shelf arduino-like board avoids almost all of the difficult soldering. The only hard to get item is a Atari cartridge breakout board (pictured). The article describes how you can get these made from the provided files yourself from a PCB manufacturer (a batch of 10 can be obtained for not much more than £10 from the cheap chinese suppliers), but I thought it would be easier if I offered some spare ones here. These are suitable for XL/XE machines. So, if anybody is planning to work through the project in Excel magazine (and wants to get ready in advance), then I've got about 8 cartridge breakout boards spare and available for £3 + P&P. Please reply here if you want one. Can I ask that anybody asking for a board confirms they have already reserved their copy of issue #4 of Excel magazine, since I'd prefer these boards to go to readers of the magazine. Robin
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