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Found 16 results

  1. the Atari 2600 PlusCart ist based on Robin Edwards Unocart-2600 , and the extensions of DirtyHairy's fork. The PlusCart has no SD-Card, but an ESP8266 to connect to a local WiFi Network and the Internet. The PlusCart downloads the ROM-files from an Server in the Internet called the "PlusStore". The way this is done is similar to the way the Unocart-2600 loads ROMs from the FAT filesystem on the SD-card, while the VCS is performing a waitroutine in RAM. Additionally the PlusCart has one more interesting feature. It offers internet access to the ROM Developers, these functions are called "PlusROM". In the first bytes of a PlusROM the path and the backend hostname or IP address has to be encoded (as strings both terminated by '\0'). Sending and receiving bytes to the host does not need a waitroutine in the VCS RAM! At the moment the PlusROM functions can be used at 2K, 4K, 3F, 3E and 3E+ cartridges and any standard bankswitching cartridge with or without 128 bytes of RAM (@ 1000 to 10FF) and a 'Standard' F4 Bankswitching (@ 1FF4 to 1FFB). So now all kind of online ROMs (Games, Chat Clients, Mail-Clients, Web-Browser, MMOGs, etc. ) should be possible with the Atari 2600 VCS. more info at: https://pluscart.firmaplus.de Source: https://gitlab.com/firmaplus/atari-2600-pluscart VID_20191013_033946.mp4
  2. DIY track and field controller for Atari 2600. Simple and easy to build (link).
  3. So I've been tinkering with the idea of having a full sized arcade cabinet in my house (now that I have a house of my own and room), but I'm hitting a bit of a wall as to what method I should use... Feel free to jump down to the bottom for the highlighted "Questions I want definitely answered" if you want the short version of this thread. I have the following options to choose from I figure: Buy the real deal arcade cabinet. Pros - Would be really awesome and authentic Cons - Expensive and a lot of work to fix it (depending on condition) Buy a pre-made Multicade Pros - Large selection and ready to go Cons - Almost as expensive if not more so than the "real deal". Also may be closed off and stuck with random nonsense Buy a nice DIY kit Pros - Can customize it and make what I want, cheaper then previous methods Cons - Art is extra and most of these use a Raspberry Pi* Make it all myself (to a point) Pros - By far the cheapest method. Can tailor exactly what I want. Use what I already have Cons - Clearly the most work. Will require tools and knowledge I may not have or will have to borrow Now it's probably already obvious which ones I'd prefer... Option #3 and #4. I have several pieces that could be use for either project. Two LCD monitors (Square SCEPTRE and Rectangle ACER) Old Workstation PCs (Intel i5s) - *The reason I put a Raspberry Pi as a con... I don't want to buy one. USB Arcade Stick (PS3 Injustice one.) I have the following guidelines for what I'd like to end up with. Feel free to give input/opinion on any of this! Prefer a stand up arcade to a barcade. However cost may prevent this! Prefer to keep cost under $200. Absolute max is $400. Prefer to use what I have versus buying more. (I'm fine getting a Raspberry Pi if it's overwhelmingly the better choice.) Maximum game system capability needed is PS1. (Any higher up is just bonus.) Ideally nothing overly complex.** **This is a vague statement because I'd prefer avoiding major skills or tools I don't have. (I suck at soldering. My art capability is non-existent.) I can borrow a few odd power tools if I do the "Make it all myself" method. Now the final bit of this post are the "Questions I want definitely answered" Linux Build VS RaspPi - Who wins? Depending on answer above, suggested software? What's a good place to get art printed? USB Arcade Stick VS Buying Buttons & Sticks - The better choice? If I buy the Buttons & Sticks - Is wiring these difficult? Do they require programming or soldering? Should I get over the work and just do it all myself? Again! Any inputs and opinions are greatly appreciated! Even if you just have a set of good links or stores to hit up.
  4. Hi All, As some of you may have noticed, I've been writing a series of DIY Atari 8-bit hardware articles for Excel magazine. For Issue #4 (due soon) I've contributed articles on both the Pixels Past 8k and 16k EPROM based cartridges, and also building instructions for my own latest design, the UnoCart. Building your own UnoCart is not massively difficult and involves just a small amount of easy (thru-hole) soldering. The key item is a STM32F407 Discovery board, which is readily available from most electronics suppliers for <£20. Using an off the shelf arduino-like board avoids almost all of the difficult soldering. The only hard to get item is a Atari cartridge breakout board (pictured). The article describes how you can get these made from the provided files yourself from a PCB manufacturer (a batch of 10 can be obtained for not much more than £10 from the cheap chinese suppliers), but I thought it would be easier if I offered some spare ones here. These are suitable for XL/XE machines. So, if anybody is planning to work through the project in Excel magazine (and wants to get ready in advance), then I've got about 8 cartridge breakout boards spare and available for £3 + P&P. Please reply here if you want one. Can I ask that anybody asking for a board confirms they have already reserved their copy of issue #4 of Excel magazine, since I'd prefer these boards to go to readers of the magazine. Robin
  5. Masterplay alike adapter with support for Sega Genesis (3 or 6 button) and Nintendo (NES or SNES) controllers and provides START and PAUSE keys functionality for convenience. Remaining functions can be accessed by a standard joystick connected on the 16 vias IDC connector on the board. Buttons and keys are mapped as follows: Two printed circuit boards available. Compact board measures 1.6"x1.6" (41x41mm) A second version of the board fits inside a Hammond 1593J case: Work in progress. Project repository available at Github
  6. This adapter was named after The 8 Bit Guy that came with a SNES layout for a game that he is developing (for Commodore PET/64) that have controls very similar to Robotron, where the directional Pad controls the movement while the X Y A B buttons control the shooting direction. Full keyboard control is provided using the SELECT and START buttons as Alt/Modifiers keys The connections to the Atari 5200 should be done by use of two cable extensions. If cable on Port 2 is not connected the X Y A B buttons behave like TOP/BOTTOM buttons. The adapter should also support the NTT data controller. Like the regular SNES controller the X Y A B buttons revert to TOP/BOTTOM when the cable on port 2 is not connected. The circuit shall also provide support for NES controllers, though with limited keypad support. The connection to the SNES controller should be done by cutting an extension cable and soldering the wires to the PCB. The PCB is designed to fit within a Hammond 1593J case. Base code is ready. Next step is prototyping. Murray-BaseCode.zip
  7. Sega Genesis adapter for Atari 2600/7800 (WIP) Button A : Fire (2600 / 7800 ) Button B : Top/Thrust (2600) / Left button (7800) Button C : Front/Trigger (2600) / Right button (7800)
  8. I love to test my games on REAL hardware when needed I did made two socketed NES Prototype carts and I'm thinking of building my own prototype version of the Atari 2600 with Sockets as well I've checked OSHPark and I see Activision styled ones and I'm wondering if that can work for my homebrew games or not I'll list the boards I saw on the site Atari 2600 2K/4K Cartridge PCB - https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/ke2psYkp Activision Atari 2600 2K/4K Cartridge - https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/fqTcNFkn Atari 2600 8K/16K/32K Bankswitch Cartridge - https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/Z612kCkR Activision Atari 2600 8K/16K/32K Bankswitch Cartridge - https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/gmpugm1I Atari 2600 64K Bankswitch Cartridge PCB - https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/wjP27Tpt Actvision's looks simple to use if I used it as my prototype carts so I don't know - I may not do 64KB so I'll debate on what my game needs
  9. Anyone interested in step-by-step instructions for making your own 2600-style boxes with full-color-print? I talking about real physical boxes, not only images. I own a printing-company and can make those boxes with instruction booklets and inlay (minimum quantity 50, pm me if you're publishing your own game), but I can also provide a step-by-step instruction for making your own (if you need just one or a few). It will look like this: It'll be quite a bit of work to put the instructions together, but if there's enough people interested, I'll do it. Post what you think. Thanks.
  10. A while back I was trying to figure out a way to daisy chain both my sio2pc devices just because I was sick of disconnecting and reconnecting them. I do switch between the two depending on what im trying to do. I started a thread but never really got the answers I needed. Then a little while back at a thrift store I found something that gave me some inspiration. It's a belkin data switch from 1999 (good news its y2k compliant). It's just a parallel port switcher but I figured I could turn it into an sio switch for my sio2pc rs232 and my sio2pc usb. So I did. I just hooked up the switch at the sio end of both my sio2pc devices. Anyway I thought I'd show it off just cuz I think its pretty sweet. So here are some pics. Also I was wondering if anyone knew how to put an led on an sio2pc device using the 14c89 chip. Id kinda like to have a little led above each of the two inputs that gets all blinky when I'm transferring data. That would be really sweet.
  11. Maybe someone can help me solve a few small problems I'm coming across. I'm following this schematic/description -- https://gamesx.com/controldata/psxcont/psxcont.htm#CIRCUIT I think I figured it out...mostly. He leaves a lot to be deciphered, lol. I'm drawing up a schematic in KiCAD right now, and I only have a few questions: 1. The DATA pin of the controller plug connects to SER OUT, correct? 2. Where does the COMMAND pin of the controller plug connect to? I must've re-read the entire page 15 times and still can't decipher where COMMAND goes. 3. Are the 74HC165 pins not associated with buttons (A1-A8, B1-B8, etc.) left with no connection? Or do they share a connection? COMMAND, maybe? Thanks in advance!
  12. This is something I've been meaning to for the last 3-4 years. I've been slowly collecting all the necessary items but in the last 3-4 months I sprinted towards the end. I've always wanted to build my own MAME-type home arcade and have a bunch of games ready for me to play with. I knew I wanted to use MAME because I've been using since it was first released eons ago. The monitor I also knew that I was going to use a LCD monitor; at least 19" and certainly a 4:3 screen for the classic look. So step one for me was getting that monitor. A couple of jobs ago, I had a HP 20" L2035. I couldn't find one locally so I ended ordering one from eBay for $50 plus shipping. A couple of years ago I came across some fellow selling Dell Ultrasharp 2007FP 20" monitor. I bought six of the guy and met him at the IKEA parking lot. The Dell one has been awesome, it has composite, SVHS, VGA and DVI inputs! The resolution is an awesome 1600x1200 resolution and they are quite bright. It's also half the weight of the HP model. At this point, I've more than recouped my money by selling three of the Dell monitors and the HP model. Needed to clear some space in our cold cellar. I gave a Dell monitor to my buddy who was also building an arcade (more on that below). Since then I've been using these monitor to plug in my 7800 and get a super-crisp image. The emulator Back in 2017 I also bought a Raspberry Pi 3. I was torn between using a lean Windows 7 OS with either an open motherboard or a small ATX case. I could have done the Win7 system in my sleep, but also wanted to learn about the Pi3 so that ended being my choice. My biggest problem ended having to upgrade the power supply to one that could draw 5A as it turns out running a HDMI cable needs a bit of "juice". The 2.5A that came with it wasn't good enough. I ended up using the RetroPie set up and got the ROMs where people get ROMs. The controls In the meantime I got arcade buttons and a joystick from eBay. Ended up using those parts to build a 7800 controller. Had some buttons left over from a project to build a Track&Field controller. To test this set-up I ended up getting a cheapish arcade USB jostick; https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B078H7MSFC/ref=pe_3034960_233709270_TE_item . That allowed me to test the configuration and just build a POC. That was pretty much my set up for the last two years. HAPP competition joysticks was going to be my pick based what I used in the past; wasn't too fussy about buttons. I was happy with the ones I used for my 7800 controller so I ordered more of those. The cabinet The cabinet was an adventure. I wanted to get something that had been pre-cut so I could assemble it, but just as I finally decided to go ahead, the place I wanted to use to order it sold their CNC equipment and closed their doors! This happened in the week or so I mulled it over. Ordering from the US was crazy expensive and the places in Canada just didn't fit the bill. Most of them wanted to sell you completed one or bundle all the gear. I wanted to use my stuff which already had. So that left scanning Kijiji for months for an arcade cabinet. After a while there was a fellow who wanted to sell a pair of empty cabinets. A generic cabinet and a NEO GEO one. I reached out to my buddy who had mentioned a while ago he was thinking of building one and luckily he agreed to go 50-50 with me. Initially I wanted the NEO GEO one, but seeing the size I went for the generic one. I think my friend was happier with the NEO GEO one as well. So that worked out. I gave him a Dell monitor to help him get his project started as he had one of those 1000 arcade game HDMI plug-in monsters. It did come with a 19" CRT but it had some bad screen burn and after asking my dad to take a look at it (he was a TV repairman for a while) he said that it wouldn't be worthwhile fixing it. The cabinet had to be cleaned up. Holes, dents, scratches, a couple of broken sections. I think I put like 8 layers of paint on the exterior. The control panel had been reconfigured so many times, it looked like swiss cheese. I put a new thick metal plate and set up my own layout. Street Fighter 2 six buttons was not a requirement for me. The plexiglass was darker and scratched, so with a LCD it would not be as bright as a CRT, I decided to replace the front plexiglass with something transparent. The theme Ultimately I wanted to be able to play my favourite arcade game; Double Dragon. So two joysticks and three buttons for each player for simultaneous action. Next was the theme: Double Dragon, Galaxian (for the colours and graphics), Bubble Bobble (funny characters and colour scheme), Centipede (I like colour scheme), Ms. Pac-Man, or Superman. The DD look I just didn't like; Galaxian was a bit too retro, Centipede wasn't going to go since I wasn't going to put in a trackball, Bubble Bobble just seemed silly, Ms. Pac-Man has been overdone. Superman was the one! Not common, I'm a DC comics fan, I always liked the game and the colour scheme was great (a blue Superman and his red variation, using the primary colours only!). Got red/blue joysticks, buttons to match the Superman colour scheme and blue t-moulding to replace the one it had before. Replaced the single speaker with two outward-facing stereo speakers and added an amp. Added LED lights to the marquee; they are not bright but since it sits in the basement it's good enough with the darker room. Rewired the power input with a fuse and attached to a power strip. Added a power button at the side and high so that it's convenient to turn everything on/off at once. Luckily the monitor remembers its state, so it turns on automatically even when completely unplugged. The powerstrip had a couple of USB plugs for the Raspberry and the LED lights. The graphics were an adventure. I had the panel and monitor overlay printed on glossy paper at Staples and obtained the art online. Ordered the marquee online and also ordered the side graphics at the end from another place (vinyl). Wished I had bigger side graphics but I didn't want to spend a ton of money. One of the problems with this project is that I've been doing it in spurts and with the graphics printed at Staples, I ended up guessing (accurately I might add) the dimensions for the overlay and panel. Got real good at cutting plexiglass towards the end. I used 3 48" sheets after a couple of failed experiments. Had a bad experience with a generic two-player USB control board, which lasted me less than week of use. Ended up buying two separate boards for each, one of them with LED light capabilities. That combo has worked best and no (zero) delay, and after a few weeks still working well. I still need to put in some finishing touches and once I had it one for like 4 hours at which point the monitor was complaining about overheating! So I'll probably have to put in a fan and set up some ventilation holes for cold air in and the hot air out.
  13. Hi everyone, I wired up a little 2k/4k multicart that uses a 74LS04 for a CE hex inverter. It works with the AMD 29F010A-90PC and with some minor wiring changes, the smaller Atmel 28C64-15PC However, it will NOT work with the Atmel 29C010A-12PC and I've tried several. Sometimes I get a glimpse of the game screen before it blanks out. An older post http://atariage.com/forums/topic/21851-2732-eeprom-and-problem-with-6-switch-atari/?do=findComment&comment=240804 describes a similar problem (though I have a 4 switcher) and he solved it by using a 7406 inverter. Before I take a chance on that inverter does anyone know what might be causing this problem? I'm trying to understand why it would effect the 120ns chip but not the 90 or 150? I really would like to use these chips since I have a few lying around. Many thanks.
  14. Hi, I'm working on a bankswitch card that supports multigames. I first made a normal 4k multicard using a 27C256 that holds 8 games, for testing purposes. Easy to make, and it worked fine... Because I have my own programmer, but not an UV eraser, I wanted to use a 29F010 EEprom that can be electrically erased. The pinout of this is (almost) the same as a 27C010. So I copied a few ROM's together and programmed the EEprom, but for some reason that didn't work on my Atari 2600. I used my programmer to read back the ROM file out of the chip, and tested it in Stella (32 in 1). That worked fine, so there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with programmed chip. Does anyone here have any experience using EEproms for DIY cartridges or mulitgame card, and what is the difference between using a EEprom and a normal Eprom (because the normal Eprom is working fine). Many thanks !!
  15. hey all, new to the forum but have been creeping wtihout being a member for a while now.. a few months ago i bought a 7800 system without any cables or controllers, i had the video, ordering the power was easy enough, but given the general review of the proline controller, i decided to build my own controller from arcade parts. seems to have worked out okay for the most part, the 2600 and 2600 games recognize the controller right off. i used http://atariage.com/forums/topic/219466-diy-7800-arcade-stick-help/this post as a rough guide, including the pinout incorporated therein. the major difference is the base wire i'm using is chopped up cat5e, mostly because its what i had laying around the house. now for the particulars, i have 620 ohm resistors in the ground wires for each of the two buttons, and diodes in the lines running to pins 5 and 9. without the diodes i get a weird auto fire feature mentioned elsewhere in the forums. the ground wire for each button has its own line running to pin 8. as far as i can tell everything is wired "correctly" based against info found elsewhere in the forums. so thats good.... except using xevious as a test cart, i can use my joystick, but not the buttons. like i said running it against seaquest using the 7800... everything works fine. xevious or asteroids for the 7800... get me nothing. interesting side note, joust, robotron, and galaga all seem to work fine from what i can tell any ideas on what went wrong?
  16. I've seen USB adapters for connecting Atari 2600 paddle controllers to a PC, but what about connecting USB optical mice to a real Atari to use as paddles? I'm interested in trying a regular wired USB optical mouse or PC wired USB optical trackball for controlling paddle games - not only would it give a different gaming experience than paddles, but optical controllers would also be "jitter proof". I have already made my own spinner controllers for MAME and Stella on the computer very simply, by duct-taping an optical mouse against a shaft (such as a wood dowel, or a wood dowel through a section of foam pool noodle) connected to a knob, and it works beautifully. So I am curious about making an adapter using an Arduino or Raspberry Pi or similar, that you can plug the mouse into, and outputs the variable resistances that would emulate a real paddle controller on the 2600. (The paddle button would be a simple matter of wiring the button to the appropriate pins.) Has anyone tried this, seen a page on this, or got any idea how a microcontroller might output the resistance range (1M ohm) that a native 2600 paddle controller would?
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