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Found 28 results

  1. Anybody have the original software that came with the Trak AT Series drives? They're supposed to come with a utility/patch called DDINIT, which will modify Atari DOS 2.0S to support double-density. Failing that, I'd settle for a copy of DOS 2.0S already modified with this utility.
  2. Looking to buy or trade for a tested & working Atari 8-Bit Cassette Drive (any type that will work with an NTSC 800 or 800XL.) I've now purchased a total of 4 drives (2 each 1010 & 410,) serviced them all to the best of my ability and none of them work. 2 different computers and 3 different cables (with the 1010's.) My primary trade item, for someone who is up to doing better servicing than I, are the 3 remaining drives (sold one of the 1010's,) I have that are not working. I also have some other Atari parts, as well as general vintage parts. If interested, l can send a list. Thank you.
  3. Dear Atari 8-bit fellows, I have long assumed that, in order to ensure that their game or software could be used by any buyer, the Atari 8-bit software publishers all offered floppy disks that could be read by a standard 810 drive. In other words, single sided, single density, or 90 KiB. But apparently this is not true. Some software required a higher capacity drive. Apart from drive-specific DOS, does anyone know of any software that requires a 1050 or XF551 drive? As a bonus, does anyone know where I can find a list of some "specific" Atari 815 software? Atari Word processor (version 815) Atari Accountant series (General Accounting System; Accounts Receivable System; Inventory Control System) Anything else? Thank you for your help!
  4. I've been diagnosing issues on a 1571 disk drive for a while now. At this point it appears to be either a power supply issue, or an issue with the hybrid U7 part in the 1571 drive. Does anyone know where I could obtain a replacement U7 part?
  5. I've been troubleshooting a 1571 drive for a while now and I've pretty much exhausted everything on the mainboard. I'd like to work on the PSU, but it's wrapped in a metal cage and I don't see how it opens, short of cutting it apart. Does anyone know how I can get into the power supply on my 1571 drive?
  6. This is just a quick blog of my experience of building an S-Drive Max and not a step by step, like I usually do, because there are just so many other good resources for building the device. First, this project is a fairly easy, that is if you read several of the 'how to' websites and watch a couple of videos before working on it. (I listed some resources below). You see, most of the websites are fairly good, it's just that they tend to leave out bits a pieces in their descriptions so a step might be missed. Second, price was fairly cheap. Mine cost only about $25.00, with a caveat; I already had an old SIO cable, I didn't plan to build or purchase a case and mine does not have the fix to allow other devices on the SIO chain. After you add all these things isn't much cheaper than one pre-built. But I didn't want one built, I wanted the experience of building it myself. Also, this is just a temporary till I get the money for a Fujinet. Now here some little problems I ran into. Nothing earth shattering, just annoying. 1.) Don't assume that the LCD screen with the same name as the one you need is the correct screen. I first purchased the wrong screen that had the right name but wrong pin lay out. check closely before you buy. 2.) I couldn't get Xloader to work on my laptop because I had previously installed a USB-comport adapter. Even after I removed the drivers for the comport adapter from my laptop Xloader still couldn't create a port. I had to switch to my desktop to get Xloader to create a port. 3.) Speaking of my desktop the Arduino creates a virtual comport and I forgot that I already had a real comport on my desktop and picked the real com1 instead of Adruino virtual com4. I restarted the Xloader with com4 and at that point everything went well. 4.) Double check your solder points. My +5 solder looked OK but caused the S-Drive to reboot over and over when moved. Re-soldered the point and everything went OK. that's it. Happy hobbying. HLO fuzzy picture of S-Drive Max Here are some resources: https://atariwiki.org/wiki/Wiki.jsp?page=SDrive-MAX https://atari8bit.net/tutorials/de-re-sdrive-max/#using https://www.bpharoah.co.uk/atari-sdrive-max/ And a YOUTUBE video:
  7. From the album: ADTX 2.5inch SCSI to IDE HD adapter

    ADTX 2.5inch SCSI to IDE HD adapter, hard drive above with adapter attached below
  8. Looking for a usb Zip drive! Any model will do. Also I'm looking for any apple ii games. As well as version 4 or 5 of gs/os. (Recently got an apple 2gs) Thanks for looking. Pm me if you have something I'd like to buy it from you.
  9. Hello everyone, I did some searching and didn't find anything here, and my internet searches have turned up varied results, but I'm trying to look for the best solution to connect 8" drives with the 50 pin format to the ATR 8000 with the 34 pin format. I don't recall if my old drives had an adapter board on them to step it down, but since I have ribbon cables a mile long that should have been for those drive cabinets back in the day, I can see it was a straight 34 pin cable. There's some people selling boards with various capabilities, but they might not be what I need for my purposes, so I thought I'd check in here. I'm sure only a small handful of people will have any experience with these anyway with the Atari systems. If nothing is out there, my next question would be whether there is logic in the adaptation to allow the drives to work, or if it was simply a straight cable that didn't use extra pins for additional functionality that the 8" drives may be capable of. I think I can find schematics and make a cable if it comes to it, and maybe even off of what came with the drives. Thanks for any information you guys might have to offer. --Todd--
  10. I know this is such a stretch but would there be any possible way to connect my Atari XF551 floppy disk drive to my Windows XP computer? I'd like to transfer Atari files to and from my PC. I really can't get an internal 5 1/4 floppy drive for the XP because they are just too pricey.
  11. Afternoon all... so i recently found and decided to hook up my old supradrive to my atari st to look at some old files on there (i`m a working musician and used the ST extensively during the 80`s / 90`s... upon power up i heard a bit of a "crack" from within the casing !!!! ... so i opened her up and a couple of chips on what looks like the controller board were fried ... a quick look on the web meant that i could source the affected chips still and relatively cheaply (hurrah!) ...BUT..... one of the affected chips seems to be a custom programmed EPROM.. and i was wondering if anyone has or knows where to get the file i need to re-burn the new chip as my drive is useless without it .... alternatively can anyone suggest an alternate housing i could source so i can swap the actual HD over ... see piccy`s for the lowdown ... affected chips are 74HCT240N X 1 Easily available S7407N X 1 " " PAL16L8ANC X 1 " " CUSTOM EPROM.. Thanks for any advice / help offered.. steve
  12. Hello I am using an Atari STE 520 with a HxC device called the "USB floppy drive emulator" in revision D made by Lotharek. This is the version which lacks jumper switches, but lets you select the device ID in software. Using this device as a internal floppy drive works acceptable. However I run into problems when I try to use it as an external FDD with a cable made by this guide: http://www.atari-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=26656 Sadly the Wiki entry which is mentioned in this guide is broken. All internal jumpers inside my STE are on their default (http://info-coach.fr/atari/hardware/interfaces.php) so pin 5 of the 14 pin connector would try to reach a FDD with ID 1 (rather than 0). The problem is that it won't work for me... The control LED of the HxC device for floppy access just lights up if I set the HxC to DS2 (all normal) or DS1 (with twisted cable). With those configuration I can for example open the floppy folder of "orbital destroyer". The internal FDD does sounds when doing so. If I then start the game the internal FDD continues to make sound, but the external one isn't used. The problem is the same if I cut the cable of (Atari STE-) pin 5 having it floating (Atari STE pin 6 still connected). However cutting 6 while having 5 still connected doesn't work. Does someone of you operate a Atari STE 520 with a Lotharek USB floppy drive emulator as external FDD? Is this possible, or is there a funky bug? Has anybody an idea what I am doing wrong? PS: Of Orbital Destroyer I have the actual 3.5 inch and I am going to put it to SPS tonight =) With kind regards Ben
  13. Greetings! I've got a small lot of Atari drives that I'm selling. Atari 1050s: Two that are complete, one that is just the board. They all power up, but two won't read disks. There is a drive for the board, but the cable to the read head is severed. Atari 810s: Two that are in good physical condition and one that was disassembled (and a couple of cracks in the body/case). Like the 1050's they power up, but haven't read a disk since our move. All drive power up, and the disk does the initial spin. Drives attempt to read the disks, but eventually fail (disk read error). Most have power supplies included (or not, your choice). Price - $20 each or make offer. You can choose all or some. Will work a deal for for multiple drives or the lot. Available to local, or anyone willing to pay the shipping and some packing materials. Shipping from North Carolina, 28078. I'll get pictures up and post them soon. If there's no interest here, I will post on eBay next. Poe
  14. Good afternoon all, I have just picked up an old Phat PS2 PAL model. I am getting disc read errors on PS2 games, PS1 games and audio discs. I did briefly manage to get a PS2 game to load, but it eventually locked up on the title screen when left alone. I know the discs are all fine because I play them on another console that I have. I was just wondering what could be the cause of this and if its not too expensive I may attempt to repair/replace myself. Many thanks for your help!
  15. Hello, all. As part of my continued spring cleaning efforts I'm selling my Taiwanese video game collection for PC (DOS) and Mega Drive. Also included are two American games. Some pretty cool stuff here, most are rather difficult to find: PC: 熊貓大進擊 (aka Panda, Go!) <- Two versions: One complete (CD version), second is disks and manual only. 西楚霸王項羽 (aka Xiang Yu, The Overlord of Western Chu) <- Complete except for outer box. 西遊記 (aka Journey to the West) <- Two versions: Both complete (CD and disk; disk version not pictured because box looks exactly the same). 爆笑保齡球 (aka Hilarious Bowling) <- Complete. VR網球96 (aka VR Tennis '96) <- Complete. 排球原人 (aka Volleyball Hominid) <- Disks and manual only. 天才寶寶大進擊 (aka Little Geniuses, Go!) <- Disks and manual only. Metal & Lace: The Battle of the Robo Babes <- Complete. One Must Fall 2097 <- CD w/manual & all inserts. MD: 麻雀惡魔塔 (aka Devilish Mahjong Tower) <- Complete. 悟空外傳 (aka Legend of Wukong) <- Complete. 世界職棒爭霸戰 (aka World Pro Baseball '94) <- Complete. All disks/CDs in great shape. Recently all were tested. All CDs are fine. Floppy disks however, ~95% read OK w/no errors. However I cannot guarantee any of the data on the floppy disks due to age. Game cartridges likewise are recently tested. They work fine. I originally bought these games for research purposes, including making scans. Staples were removed from the manuals in order to get the highest quality scans. Sold "as-is." Please keep this in mind when considering a purchase. I prefer to sell the collection complete, for USD$350 -> USD$300 (includes shipping within USA). Please inquire about international shipping. Please get in touch by PRIVATE MESSAGE if interested. And don't litter the thread with "PM Sent!" messages. Nobody cares. Pardon the lackluster photos. Thanks for having a look.
  16. Hi, I got an 1050 disk drive in the last days and after open it, I´m surprised! Never have seen such a model before, and I have opened more then 50 different 1050´s in the last years. So... anybody knows this model? My first thougth was, that this must be a pilot production model from the early days of existing 1050´s. After showing the pictures in the german ABBUC forum, somebody assumed that this model might be a clone, produced not from Atari. The case looks like a normal 1050 case, but the brown front bezel doesn´t fit on any other 1050 case and vice versa. The mechanical drive is totally different from the normal Tandon & world series models. The PCB has some manual corrections and scratched traces, but looks nearly equal to any other series 1050 PCB. The color of the solder mask is other than normal. The metal shielding of the major ICs is not quite silver as usual. Any ideas welcome. Regards, Juergen
  17. So I just got my shiny new Kryoflux board yesterday. I got it all set up with an old IBM drive that I cleaned up and it is working perfectly. I was so excited to watch it produce raw stream and .img files of my original Atari 8-bit Bruce Lee disk in less than a minute and a half! I couldn't wait to put in a blank disk and see if it could write a working copy of the disk, protection and all. Then comes the "cannot open image file" error... Did I do something wrong, I wonder to myself? Wait, what? The software can't write back the images it produces??? ??? I have to send them to the "Software Preservation Society" to have them decide if it is worth their time and effort to generate a writeable .ipf file for me? I don't mean to sound ungrateful, because the Kryoflux is truly a remarkable product, but is there ANY way I can build an .ipf file myself with a windows PC? I have a lot of my own data disks; my old BBS disks especially that have become unreadable through the years, that I would like to try to bring back from the dead with this product. Any ideas, links, suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.
  18. So, I got this SMS 2, but it's barely working. My TV can't pick up the signal, and I am way too stupid to try and repair that thing. So I am looking into getting a Power Base Converter for my Mega Drive model 1 - which is always hooked up to the TV anyway. That way, I can also keep the number of consoles crowding my TV rack in reasonable limits. Does anyone have a spare and wants to part with it for a reasonable price? German eBay sellers - or all European eBay sellers, in fact - seem to get really nasty once they have such a thing. Also, what is this thing here? Does it work just as well? http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fitm%2FSEGA-Master-System-MEGA-DRIVE-Genesis-Power-Base-Converter-Adapter-NEU-NEW-%2F300916543780%3Fpt%3DDE_Kabel_Adapter%26hash%3Ditem4610061124
  19. Just purchased an empty PEB and want to find a disk drive and disk drive controller card for it. Also looking for a 32K Memory card.
  20. Howdy. Welcome to 2019, everybody. So to kick off the new year, I'm happy to announce that we @ Super Fighter Team have partnered with extreme Co., Ltd. and an independent development team to bring an English language version of Vixen 357 to market: on a new cartridge, with color cardstock box & instructions, much like we've done with our previous 5 games for the Sega Genesis / Mega Drive. It's available for pre-order now. Check it out @ www.vixen357.com Game will ship later this year, we'll keep everyone informed via our [email protected] account. Important updates will also be shared here, in this thread. As I may not be able to swing by the forum very often, please feel welcome to contact me directly with any questions: [email protected] Thanks for your attention. Have a nice day.
  21. Hi, I've decided to sell my boxed Commodore 64C computer, and its matching disc drive, the 1541C. Both have boxes and manuals. The boxes show a little wear for their age, but are overall in very good condition. They have the booklets that originally came with them as well. Both have all the cords necessary to be hooked up as well. I have tested the Commodore 64. I have no games but I did play around with the initial start up options and made sure everything is working properly. The disc drive I can not test. According to the manual however, everything seems to be working perfectly. It makes the exact noises the manual says it will. It lights up just as the manual says it will. However, I do not have any games so I can not test it 100%. So that is everything, they are both boxed like I said, both have manauals and all their cords. The 64 works, the disc drive probably works but can not be fully tested. For a price, I'm not 100% certain of that these are worth. I can only go by offers I've had in the past and completed eBay listings. I'm going to start at $125 shipped or best offer. Please let me know if you're interested and we may be able to work out a deal. I'm also up for trades, but I'm mostly into NES, SNES, Genesis, 32x, Sega CD, Saturn and Gamecube. Please let me know. Take care, Tyler
  22. I received an untested 1050 drive from eBay and found the floppy connections were all disconnected (J1,J6,J10,J11,J12,J14,J15) There are no labels on the connectors themselves to indicate which "J" they should go to and the colors don't match what was shown in the 1050 service manual on page 27. See below the colors associated with my connections. Can anyone post their connector setup if it is similar to the one below?
  23. It's early days, but I've just come across a link to a site which shows you how to use Google Drive to webhost for free. The link is here: http://www.labnol.org/internet/host-website-on-google-drive/28178/ I've tested it with their sample website file and it appears to work. I'm sure that there are some downsides to this, but I don't know what they are; with exception to there being a not very nicely named URL. Apparently it can also be used for podcasts, though I've not tested that. I thought that this might be useful for any of you who want to host websites / podcasts and are on a budget. I've not tested uploading an individual html/mp3 etc file yet though I am sure that there is a way to do this.
  24. Hey all, I've just received some new Tandon mech drive belts from Best Electronics in the hope of getting my old 1050 drive up and working. The original belt failed in 1989 and I've used a friends 1050 every since. The problem is the belts I've gotten seem too long (see pictures). Anyone know what length they need to be? Perhaps these are for a different mech :-/
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