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Showing results for tags 'dualshock'.
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Well, I've done some more experimenting and have managed to find a way to attach wired PS3 and Xbox 360 controllers to the 5200 to play the games that offer digital controls (as opposed to the analog-only games like Missile Command). This required a number of video game controller adapters/cables and a USB power supply. Here's how it's done: The adapters needed to get the wired PS3 controllers compatible with the Atari 5200 are as follows: 1) a 15 pin PC Gameport controller to 15 pin Atari 5200 adapter. These are obtained by contacting Atariage member, bohoki. He makes these for under $20 (shipped within the U.S.). 2) An adapter that converts Atari/Amiga/Sega controllers with a 9 pin connector to a 15 pin PC gameport. These are available on Ebay from "Ikonsgr74" and can be obtained for under $20 (shipped anywhere in the world). 3) A Tototek Joypad Convertor version MD (for Playstation controller compatibility on the Megadrive/Sega Genesis). These adapters are under $30. 4) A Brook Game Controller Super Convertor for adapting a PS3/PS4 controller to a PS2 console. These can be had for under $40. 5) a USB splitter cable ($12 or less). 6) a powersupply with a USB cord (5Volts) OR a USB Hub with connected power supply. To get the Xbox 360 controllers compatible with the 5200, you'll need one additional adapter. It is the Mayflash Universal Adapter for Xbox360/PS3/PS2/PC USB. These may be found at Amazon. Current price for these on Amazon is $30, but that is subject to change. Mayflash adapters tend to become scarce and go up in price. If any of you have interest in a video presentation on this (as well as a quick explanation of how to fix a potentiometer controller problem) here's the link for that:
Sony's stance on the batteries in their PS3 controllers is simple: If it dies, then you need to replace the whole controller. Anyone who has taken more than 2 seconds to look into this though knows this is nonsense and one can easily replace the battery..... issue is, since Sony's stance on it is "It's not user-replaceable", they don't sell replacement batteries.... which means you have to rely on a 3rd party to get one. And the issue with THAT is that nearly all of them are garbage. Tons of replacement batteries on Amazon and other sites... but many of them have reviews of people complaining the battery overheats, or didn't last half a year, or plenty of other such problems. Sure, the majority of reviews might be 5/5 or 4/5... but nearly all of those were written nearly immediately after getting the product, not after they have had the product for a while. It's a total crapshoot... with the odds not being in your favor... if any 3rd party battery you find is decent quality or not. That's why I am asking here. Is anyone aware of any DS3 3rd party batteries that are actually good quality and reliable?
I just found some pretty cool stuff in my parents basement. It's the last of my collection that I didn't have any idea that existed. I don't know what to say about it. The last time I used any of it was many many years ago. I'm taking offers. There can't be worth that much. So if you're interested shoot me a PM and we can work something out. I have the following: NES fourscore Playstation Dual Shock 2600 driving controller 2600 paddle controller x2 RF switch Suncom Tac-3 Goldstar 3D0 controller Sold R-Type for the Sega Master system Gone. Like I said earlier I haven't used these in many years. The last time I used these, they worked fine. I don't have a way of testing any of them. So I'm selling them as they are. Edit-I'm also up if someone has a copy of Nights for the Saturn if anyone has one available.
Does anybody know how to remove the cable wires from the PCB, and what type of ferrules are used? I am trying to repair a broken, modified DualShock 2 cable. Copper is exposed, very close to the exit from the controller. I work for a rehabilitation engineering company; a long time ago we modified a load of PS2 controllers for use with electric wheelchairs. The wires in the cable are terminated using crimps that fit inside a small block on the PCB. I can see two ways to fix this: 1) Cut the cable just before and after the broken outer sheath, and reattach each wire by splicing 2) Remove the crimps, cut the wire off just after the broken outer sheath, crimp the wires, then put these in the block I would really rather do (2), because (1) means adding heatshrink, which means adding rigidity, and is a point of mechanical weakness. I could probably unlock the ferrules using a knife or a screwdriver, but I want to avoid all risks and would prefer to use a crimp removal tool. My colleagues think the ferrules are soldered into the board, but I'm not sure since this would mean adding a 90 degree bend inside the block. I would be very grateful if anybody could either tell me where I can find this info out? Attached is a picture of the ferrules in the block. Thanks in Advance