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Showing results for tags 'eeprom'.
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I’m restoring an Astrocade and would like to build a Balcheck. I’ve reviewed the plans and photos on Bally Alley (awesome website!). I’d like to create a PCB with parts that are currently in production. Can anyone recommend a modern alternative to the 2716 EPROM used on the Balcheck device? I’d prefer an EEPROM or Flash with very similar functionality. A quick search on Mouser returned the Microchip AT28C64B. It’s larger than need but I can ground the unused addresses A11 and A12. Also I have a TL866 so I can easily program it. Btw: could the AT28C64B work for a homebrew cartridge too? I figure all the other IC’s can be replaced by a single inexpensive MCU. I’ll post the Eagle files when I’m done. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.
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Making ones own cartridges! -- (Modified 07/02/2019)
--- Ω --- posted a blog entry in TI-99/4A Stuff
For little less than the price of some 'Homebrew' cartridges, one can purchase their own burner, download the free images << AVAILABLE HERE >> and make cartridges to suit their immediate needs. Later as interests change, erase and re-burn! Why not consider a burner and take your TI hobby to a new level? A while back, some of the 'TI-gods' got together, envisioned, designed, debugged and built the truly amazing "Uber Cart". The Uber Cart has been used for some really cool compilations, like the Extended BASIC 2.7 Suite cartridge developed by the late Tony (The Great Gazoo) Knerr. More recently Atari Age user Asmusr has added some really neat gaming "mult-cart" images. If you think you might be interested in purchasing one of the really affordable MiniPRO TL866CS EEPROM programmers, click << THIS LINK >> to check out some sources and pricing. If you would like to buy an Uber Cart, they are sometimes available << HERE >>. While arcadeshopper.com does not list Pay Pal as an option, Greg will be more than happy to make arrangements with you if that is the way you need to pay. You can contact him directly by clicking << HERE >>. (Must be signed into Atari Age) When I was a newbie I had some trouble programming chips with the cheap socket I *WAS* using. I thought my programmer was defective, or that I had a batch of bad chips. I figured I had nothing to lose, so I tried what you see in the video below. Don't laugh, it worked! Now the chips take programming even with a cheap socket! The video below shows the major on-screen process, and how quick it is, to program the little ROM chip with easily obtainable and free cartridge image files. * Once you get a programmer, be sure to download the PDF files below. MiniPro-programmer-1284p-GAZOO.pdf MiniPRO TL866CS -- ENGLISH Help FIle.zip ROM WORKSHEET.pdf AT49F040 (UberCart).pdf AVR ATmega1284P.pdf MiniPRO Device Listing.pdf Unbricking an AVR like the 1284P.pdf -
Dear AtariAge forum Recently I found out interesting 3DO stuff. - In some Japanese 3DO FZ-1 theres is a single SOP44 ROM chip which does contain BIOS and Kanji fonts on the same package. The second ROM slot on the board is left blank. - SOP44 3DO ROM chips can be read as if they were 29LV160 chips (eg. AM29LV160**, MBM29LV**, MX29LV160**, ES29LV160**, HY29LV160**, the asterices being any letter) - BIOSes can be written on to AM29LV160DB and AM29LV160BB. Probably on the rest of the afore mentioned chips too. - The RSA check can be removed from the BIOS by changing the two occurrences of 000313A0000111A0 into 000313A0000011A0. It is important to leave the 000213A0000111A0 as it is. - Without RSA check all arcade games and unlicensed games will run on home console 3DOs - M2 games did not run on such systems yet and probably won't Member Tajigamer was a invaluable help during these explorations! Keep on preserving stuff, kind community! Ben
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Hi everyone, I wired up a little 2k/4k multicart that uses a 74LS04 for a CE hex inverter. It works with the AMD 29F010A-90PC and with some minor wiring changes, the smaller Atmel 28C64-15PC However, it will NOT work with the Atmel 29C010A-12PC and I've tried several. Sometimes I get a glimpse of the game screen before it blanks out. An older post http://atariage.com/forums/topic/21851-2732-eeprom-and-problem-with-6-switch-atari/?do=findComment&comment=240804 describes a similar problem (though I have a 4 switcher) and he solved it by using a 7406 inverter. Before I take a chance on that inverter does anyone know what might be causing this problem? I'm trying to understand why it would effect the 120ns chip but not the 90 or 150? I really would like to use these chips since I have a few lying around. Many thanks.
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Hi, I'm working on a bankswitch card that supports multigames. I first made a normal 4k multicard using a 27C256 that holds 8 games, for testing purposes. Easy to make, and it worked fine... Because I have my own programmer, but not an UV eraser, I wanted to use a 29F010 EEprom that can be electrically erased. The pinout of this is (almost) the same as a 27C010. So I copied a few ROM's together and programmed the EEprom, but for some reason that didn't work on my Atari 2600. I used my programmer to read back the ROM file out of the chip, and tested it in Stella (32 in 1). That worked fine, so there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with programmed chip. Does anyone here have any experience using EEproms for DIY cartridges or mulitgame card, and what is the difference between using a EEprom and a normal Eprom (because the normal Eprom is working fine). Many thanks !!
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The new homebrewers cart has a 512k flash on board. In order to simplify things it would be nice to have only one configuration. What should it be?
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Thinking (again) about updating my LPT port eprom programmer. This seems like a very complete package. Anyone? Or alternatives for say under $150? http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-speed-true-USB-Universal-Programmer-TL866CS-Full-Pack-include-7PCS-adapters-/320967107440#vi-content Thanks, Larry
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Hey everyone. I'm trying to make my own custom cartridge but I've run into some problems. Here are the steps I took: 1. Got a donor cartridge PCB (Skiing by Activision). This is a 2k game but the layout looked straight forward. 2. I got an Atmel 8-bit 5-volt 64k EEPROM. 3. I desoldered the skiing EPROM and soldered pin headers in instead. (since the Atmel EEPROM doesn't actually fit because it has more pins.) 4. I programmed the EEPROM with the Skiing ROM. I checked the data in Stella and on the programmer and the bytes match. 5. I placed wires from the headers on the cartridge to the EEPROM on a breadboard. When I turn the Atari on, it usually makes random sounds and scrambled screens. It's almost like the Atari is getting random data every time it turns on. The sounds and screen data changes every time if anything is displayed at all. Checking with a logic probe, it looks like everything is high. The address pins and the data pins all register as high. I'm not sure what to do with the sGND and the A12 address bit. If I connect the sGND to the GND the Atari won't start. Do I just connect the A12 to the EEPROM's A12? Does the Atari use A12 or is it always on? Outside of wiring it wrong, is there anything that stands out? When I programmed the EEPROM, I left the remaining ~62k empty (FF) assuming the Atari can't address it anyway. Thanks!
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