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Found 30 results

  1. Ok guys, I’m stuck. I’m only 16 so I don’t reeeeeeeally know what I’m doing, but I need your help! Atariage, I’ve been scammed!! DUN DUN DUUUUUUUUN!! I bought a “working” atari 400 off of OfferUp whose only problem was that it had a cut video cable (Which I replaced with one I pulled from a broken 2600) and no PSU (which I had bought before the system arrived). I, being the idiot I am, DIDN’T test the system before starting my cleaning/retrobrite process (pictures below ;) ). After that week of school I threw the system back together aaaaaaaand... black screen... :( I’ve tried Everything I can think of, I reseated all the chips on the whole computer (cleaning the pins and the sockets as I did), cleaned the the ram and cpu board connectors, started it up with a star raiders cartridge, made sure everything was grounded properly, deoxidized the power jack, cleaned the channel selector, tried multiple tv’s (both new and old), and STILL I get that black screen... WHAT SHOULD I DO?! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  2. Hello, I just bought two retro Sega handheld consoles recently but I just realised that both of their screen are burnt as faulty. So I am look for an experienced repair for new LCD screens to replace them. I will happy to pay for LCD screens from websites like Ebay, Amazon, etc. I will pay you for your service to fix them. I will happy to drop them in Sydney metro but I don't mind to post them in only Australia as well. They are Sega Nomad Genesis and Sega Game Gear consoles. See pictures of them attached.
  3. I bought an intellivision 1 on ebay about two years ago and when i tested it it didn't work. i attempted to repair it and couldn't do it. I even removed the shielding and checked the board. I have no clue what im really doing do I decided to send some pictures. I cleaned it and couldn't figure out what was wrong. it has black screen with interference when i tried booting it up. I originally got nothing and thought the rf switchbox was broken but the cable was so i used and yellow double ended composite wire and tested it then i got the black screen. I know the box and cable works because i tested it on my model 1 genesis. anyway, let me know if you guys see the problem. Thanks!
  4. My NTSC TI 99/4A's internal power supply isn't working. Is there anywhere in Europe that I can get it fixed? Does anyone know If anyone sells these internal PSUs?
  5. Hi guys its been a while since i posted on the forums however, My sound (monitor output sound, don't have rf box) is not working. I did a couple measurements with the multimeter on the POKEY and it seems that it does have voltage output at pin 37 (read that on forum where someone had the same audio problem with their 130xe) Personally, I have a hunch that it's not the POKEY chip itself rather it's a capacitor or resistor in the sound circuit since I'm pretty sure POKEY handles I/O and keyboard scanning (both of which work tested the disk drive with emulation with aspeQt/SIO2PC, however cassette playback does not work.) So I guess my question is should I just skip trying to get a donor POKEY and attempt to troubleshoot the sound circuit (potentially just shotgunning the entire circuit and replacing it all until it works)? I would gladly accept any advice from anyone! Thank you! I have the schematic of all the resistor/capacitor values here http://www.jsobola.atari8.info/derelit/xefsm.pdf
  6. Hello all, I'm a long time Atari fan. My parents bought an ATARI ST in the late 80s so I was thrilled when I saw the Atari Lynx and later Lynx 2- but of course I didn't get one... However, I always so much wanted a Lynx 2- so I was very much excited when I won an auction for a working unit a few days ago with a few games. I paid too much yes, but I really wanted one- so I was devastated when I switched it on to see this: Dots on Display So my question is... if it's fixable? They don't seem to be dead pixels as it depends on the viewing angle: Different viewing angle Also these marks can be seen when the unit is switched off: On switched off unit (opened it) I somehow expect the answer to be no , so is there any way to get an original screen? A mod with a Mcwill or Bennvenn is not an option to me, currently. I'm really sad about this issue as a lynx was my childhood dream. Yes, I talked to the seller and after some hassle I agreed for a small discount. Just not in the mood for arguing in these times. Thx for reading, Dan
  7. I just picked up a 1010 today and after setting it up it didn't play atari tapes. I thought the belt was broken until i played a music cassette with POKE 54018,52. So than I started fiddling with it and I noticed whenever you press the advance button it gets stuck and the 1010 produces a stuck hum like sound. Any suggestions? -EDIT- fixed. Was bad gear.
  8. i got an atari 2600 recently at a thrift-store, then got a replacement cord. i cleaned the contacts repeatedly, and all i get is a black-screen when a game is inserted. sometimes a flash of the title screen, and without a game i get random stripes, sometimes buzzes, and sometimes black-screen. what do i do? its the wood-front model
  9. Hi, I recently got a good deal on an original GEC model Vectrex system. It's in amazing condition, and works great. But there is one issue. When I play the built in Game Mine Storm (I do not have any other games yet) moving the stick LEFT will make me spin RIGHT endlessly until I move the stick RIGHT to stop it, rather then turn me LEFT. Moving the stick right works perfect, and the buttons are fine, but what can I do about the controller? Is the problem even with my controler or the system? What is wrong? What can I do? Oh a and it would probably help to add that I hear a little rattel inside the controller when I pick it up. PLEASE HELP ME OUT!
  10. Hello guys n' gals.... I have a DMG Gameboy with a screwed up LCD. The right part is darker than the left and it has a horizontal line.... (I think I bent the H/V ribbon cables too much...) Could it be replaced??? The LCD is custom, but I have been able to find simmiliar screen sizes and resolutions on the 'Bay... I'd try to get a Gameboy Pocket LCD if I could find them. Probably a Color/Advance LCD wont fit? Any options? Thanks....... Al.
  11. Hello all, long time reader, first time poster on the forums. I recently picked up a junk Coleco Telstar Combat system made in ‘77 for a couple dollars. It was pretty roached, but it’s a rather obscure system so I couldn’t pass it up. However, after getting it all cleaned up, I plugged it to my TV to test it out, but all I got was static and no signal. I tried many times turning the system off and on but mostly no signal would appear at all. Sometime a staticky signal would fade in and out, but it was very inconsistent. Once, I even got a vague image of the actually game screen to appear for a few seconds. I’m fairly confident that the video cable coming from the system itself is not the issue and I have it hooked up to a known working RF switch that works well with my Atari 2600. So, I opened the system back up, removed the RF shield, and began to adjust the RF inductors (I’m using a modern tv). ( I attached pics for reference) There appears to be 2 RF inductor adjustments under the shield, and a screw adjustment at the top right corner of the board. I started adjusting the orange (bottom) inductor but that only caused the video to go from no signal, to staticky image, back to no signal. So I tried to adjust the white (top) RF inductor, but it wouldn’t budge. Upon further inspection, I saw the slot inside this inductor had several cracks. I desoldered the inductor from the board to examine it further, but couldn’t get it to budge. After resoldering it back on, I still have the same issue, however, the static signal seems to become more and more scarce, leaving me with no signal as I fiddle more and more with the inductors. I also tried adjusting the screw adjuster to no avail, but I’m not really sure which RF adjusters I should/need to adjust. Would the cracking in the inductor be enough to inhibit the video signal completely? Is there anything else that could be causing this issue besides the inductors? I have a rather limited knowledge on electronics as I have only been attempting retro repairs for about a year and a half, so any new nuggets of knowledge are greatly appreciated! This is a really neat and rare system that I would like to have working in my collection. Feel free to ask questions if something isn’t clear. Thanks in advance! (Note: I have the same problem regardless if I’m using batteries or the power supply).
  12. Hey There, new to the forums here, I'm not sure if this is the right place to post but I need some help with my CX2600A Rev 8. I'm not sure if there is a nickname for this model.. its between the light sixer and the vader 2600s. I noticed last week that my 2600 video signal was almost unplayable because of how much snow there was in the screen. I have a little 1999 Sanyo CRT tv that I use for all my RF signal consoles (intellivision/ Commodore/2600) via a Female Rf to Coaxial adapter. It was a trifecta of video problems, general uniform fuzzy/snowy screen, over top that were horizontal rolling bars going bottom to top and over top that were diagonal bars going lower right corner to upper left. It had never been that fuzzy before, I noticed when I moved the RF cable going into the console the fuzziness would change. After taking apart the console and unplugging the video cable, I tried using a modern video cable (the same one I use on my Intellivision with crystal clarity) but the video problems persisted. After looking on these forums for hours I found possible solutions to the issue, but none of them worked - The green "chicklet" capacitor above the power modulator needs to be replaced ---> The CX2600A doesnt have a green chicklet capacitor above the power modulator -Stop using the ancient Rf Box that came with the console and use a Rf-Coaxial adapter ---> I already am -Stop the TV from auto-scanning to lock onto the 2600's signal better to reduce the snow ---> I tried this, the signal was the same -Try jiggling the cart, the game/ game port may need cleaning ---> Nothing happened -Try switching between Channel 2 and Channel 3, the Switch may be causing interference --> Channel 2 was a little better then Channel 3 (I'll come back to this later) -Make sure you are using the Power Adapter made for the Atari, to much/little power could cause video issues --> I'm using the original power adapter plugged into a power strip, plugging into the wall. -Install a component mod --> I have two separate tvs for different types of games. I have a flat screen for Component/HDMI and the Sanyo CRT for RF games. Call it personal preference but I want to keep the atari as a RF signal All that troubleshooting led me to believe it was either the female RF connector on the board itself or the RF modulator. Seeing as it would be easier for me in the long run, I modded the case and added a external RF jack on the outside of the case, wiring it with 18Gauge wire to the board after desoldering the old 37 year old connector. This helped A LITTLE BIT. It eliminated the diagonal rolling bars but the horizontal bars and snow were still present. After painstakingly desoldering the RF modulator shielding and the 5 pins connecting it to the board I pried the modulator off and found a spider nest inside the RF modulator shielding. After cleaning that up, resoldering everything back into place, I once again hooked up the system and nothing. It was the same terrible signal. In a last ditch effort attempt to fix it I desoldered, then resoldered the channel switch back on. This didn't fix channel 3. HOWEVER, channel 2 looks crisper then I've ever seen it. It isn't crystal clear like my Intellivision, the picture is fuzzy with a little bit of snow, and when testing with Air Sea Battle, the screen seems to warp inwards from the sides when the colors change. Is there any way I can get clearer picture from my system om Channel 3? I know how to solder and replace components, but I don't have a clue when it comes to the technical parts of electronics.
  13. First of all, Hello everyone, i'm new in this forum. Recently I've bought a Mc will mod for Game Gear and I have a problem: When I press 1 and 2 buttons at the same time, the screen change its scale. Normally this only happens when you press 1, 2 and start button too at the same time. Does anyone know if it's possible to fix it?, becouse is a bit annoying because some games needs to press 1 and 2 bottons at the same time. Thank you in advance.
  14. Hi all, I am hoping someone on here with some experience repair an asteroids PCB can help me troubleshoot a minor issue I am having. My left rotate is sticking intermittently. I have replaced the buttons so I know it is a problem on the logic board but I don't know where to look. Every once in a way the ship gets stuck rotating left and then i can rotate right and it will eventually fix itself during game play. It only crops up once in a while. Any ideas?
  15. Hi guys! Im in the uk and I have a problem with my intellivision that I hope you can help me out with. A few weeks back I got the console from eBay. It was working fine apart from a small colour issue, the greens were red etc. But after 20 or so minutes the games would correct the colour. It suddenly went to a blank screen when i turned the console on or pressed reset. After taking it apart and giving it a dust down as well as cleaning the port with a credit card and a lint free cloth the title screen comes on, all in the right colours. Sometimes I have to hold the reset button and release it at the same time as switching it on to get the title screen. But as soon as I press any key or the d pad on either controller the screen goes blank. On mazeatron I get the title screen with the intro music, but, again, as soon as I press anything it goes blank. On demon I get the title screen and the graphics moving about, but does absolutely nothing when I press any key, it doesn't go blank, just stays on the title screen. I also tried leaving it on for a while on just the title screen to see if it would turn itself off as it did before, but it just stayed on the title screen for almost 20 minutes before i turned it off. I noted that underneath was quite warm. When i opened it up i couldnt see any damage, but then, i dont really know what im looking for. I have never attempted to fix anything like this before, i dont even know how to solder and i have no computer or electronic skills at all, i have absolutely no idea what im doing. Please help! Many thanks for reading!!
  16. Hi guys, I got myself an Atari 130 XE recently (after a 20 year gap) and I finally found the time to open it to see the conditions inside. I found a couple of hacky looking wires in there and I haven't a clue what do these fix / improve. Can someone here recognize it as a typical mod / fix? Thanks for any comments!
  17. Hey all... I have three bad roller controller buttons. I opened up the case and cleaned the crap out of them with deoxit to no effect (that stuff saved my regular controller buttons for sure). Anybody have experience in this area?
  18. Hey guys I'm going to try and make a long story short. back in Jaunary I got a broken Vectrex. I was told it had alignment issues. I trouble shooted and even replaced a few IC chips and got no results. Well today I repaired my Sega Mega Drive which got me motivated. So, here I am. The main problem is that the vectors displayed on my monitor don't connect and form what they should be. I shot a video to show exactly what I mean. Any help is appreciated. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQU7EVS3rho&list=UU3dpEsu_UykWMc9nPHdHwIg
  19. I've been messing around with magazine type-in games again these last few weeks, at the minute I'm on Compute!. I came across Meteor Storm and couldn't get it working under XE OS. Tried all sorts but it wasn't happening. MC was the only way, but my MC-fu is weak. Several hours later and I've found a memory move routine that works backwards (necessary in this case). Several more hours later and I've got it working after figuring out how to do addition in MC (very painful). A couple more hours and I've integrated it into the game and it is working fine, to my eternal joy. Fix notes: This game refuses to work on XL/XE systems as originally printed. The reverse scroll of the meteors is achieved by fooling the OS into thinking it is in mode 0 when it is actually in mode 1, and then printing an insert line character at the top of the screen. While this works on the 400/800 OS, under the XL/XE it does something evil to the display RAM, corrupting it and making the game unplayable. To fix this, I have added a small MC routine to replace the print of the insert line character. The MC routine detects the address of the start of screen RAM, and copies lines 23-3 to the next line down in reverse order. A normal memory move wouldn't have worked as the source and destination overlap. And here they are; bootable ATR (Basic required), and the BAS and LST (as a TXT) files for your pleasure. Enjoy! PS, Atarimania are more than welcome to add this to their database as a fixed version. Meteor Storm (XL fixed).atr METEORXL.BAS METEORXL.TXT
  20. Hi everyone! At the end of the Bug/65 manual we can read: 1. Copy the files BUG65.COM and BUGV4FIX.COM to a version 4 disk using the COPY24 command (see the DOSXL manual for details on this command). 2. At the version 4 "D1:" prompt, type the command: BUGV4FIX [RETURN] 3. The file BUG65.COM on that disk is now compatible with version 4 of DOSXL. WARNING: Do NOT perform the BUGV4FIX command on your version 2 master disk! Does anyone of you has the "BUGV4FIX.COM" file? I really would appreciate that! :-))) Thank you very much in advance, all the best, Luckybuck
  21. Hello all, I work at a Disc Replay, I see games come in all the time, but these two games are causing me trouble. I have: Cleaned the pins with alcohol I have not: Tested with multi-meter Re-soldered chips Bought a donor cart for a possible switch? Cleaned with contact cleaner Knights of the Round and SMW + SMAS: http://i.imgur.com/l8b8pmW.jpg http://i.imgur.com/WcX2fKG.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hTulJc7.jpg http://i.imgur.com/tTu0rHr.jpg Do you see something that I don't on these carts? Should I put more time and effort into getting these to work? Thanks.
  22. I recently bought 3 Ataris (1 fat, 2 newer small ones) for $200, and there is a ton of static. Long story short, I've eliminated every possible thing I could between the solder points for the RF out on the Atari circuit board and the input on my TV, but it still yields static. I've used the RF tuner on the board, reseated everything that can be reseated, and used rubbing alcohol on most external contacts, yet I still get static. The Atari comes with the original power supply, and works flawlessly, just the static. I've tried it on 3 different TVs of 3 different types. (CRT, Projector, and LCD) with the same result on each. There doesn't appear to be any physical damage in any soldering or the board in general, other than some kind of minor liquid stains on the side. Any suggestions? Thanks, -Will
  23. I own an Atari 2600 heavy sixer and I'm looking for a little help diagnosing a problem. I've bought two sets of used paddle controllers (two controllers attached to one wire) and neither has worked. My problem is, I don't know if my controllers, or my joystick ports are to blame. After disassembling all four pots and cleaning them, there is no change. So I looked up a pinout of the 2600 joystick ports, and found this little number. http://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_05_2014/post-32232-0-25905600-1400246916.gif I do happen to have the Video Touchpad controller, and testing it with Star Raiders shows it is in perfect working condition. I notice that pins 5 and 9 are shared by the touchpad and the paddles for input. If my touchpad works fine, am I correct in assuming that this eliminates the possibility of my joystick port(s) being bad? If so, what the heck is most likely wrong with my paddles? Where do these things fail most often? I'm looking to fix them, but I'm not sure if it is feasible.
  24. Return or try to fix? Makes no difference if game is inserted or not. I removed/re installed RCA cable onto the mother board twice. I am using $2 female RCA to Coax connector into antenna jack. Advice appreciated! Link to vid: http://youtu.be/wmpS2_PiNWw
  25. I opened my atari today.... and noticed that the foam piece on the switches are all dryed out and were practically falling off, when I picked one up it started to rip. Can anyone give any info of a alternative that I can use or a link of where I can purchase these pieces of foam that would be great! Theres one on ebay but its $10 and I can't spend $10 on a thin peice of foam, by the way I'm not cheap just a poor 15 year old
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