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Found 30 results

  1. Dear All, 3.5" floppy drives that connect via USB to a modern PC are very common and I have some. However, it is impossible to find a 5"1/4 USB floppy drive. I guess there must be a good reason, which I don't know. However, I would really like to find one to take "raw" images of floppy disks, right there, on my Windows 10 computer. I haven't had a PC with these floppy drives for a long time (or I have old PCs in the basement somewhere and loose 3.5" & 5"1/4 drives). So, if anyone has an idea, a suggestion, how to find this kind of 5"1/4 floppy drive in USB for modern PC. Thanks in advance.
  2. Hi, I am (slowly 😀 ) rebuilding my PFM modded Geneve (384+192K) system and I really don´t know what controller/combination to use. Can/should I use the HFDC for the harddrive only plus adding a BwG (or CC9900) for the (2+HxC) floppy disk drives ? Makes that sense for an extra FDD-controller ? Maybe just to have it full or to prevent from any problems ? I have some controllers, so it is not the question to save up one. And I have no need for formats bigger than 720KB. I also want to add an HRD3000 Ramdisk, is it possible to boot from that, instead of the harddisk ? Does this make sense at all ? Or just install it without boot, just to have it ? Is there any use for the TripleTec-Card ? Speech maybe ? And use the CC9900 floppy controller instead of the BwG ? I also have the Myarc 512 KB RAM, but I think there is a special mod to be done, to use it in the Geneve ? And I will add a RS232, maybe I take the Myarc instead of the TI (?) I also have an ASCSI2-Controller, but I really do not want to use that because I want to keep my SNUG system complete. (if anyone wants to get rid off a WHT-SCSI, I am your man) What did I forget ? thx If needed, here is a picture: More detailed here: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/315250-ti-994a-show-your-modded-systems-here/?do=findComment&comment=4734298
  3. So I recently bought a Peripheral Expansion box with a 32k expansion card. I am a newbie at this. When I power the PEB up, the floppy drive initializes and then turns on and off repeatedly every few seconds. Super annoying. I pulled out the 32k card and then the problem stopped. With the card out, it works normally. I figured the 32k card had a problem so I bought another. The new card does the same thing! Any thoughts?? I have cleaned all contacts and inspected everything but nothing seems to help. Something in my floppy drive maybe?
  4. I'm trying to add my Lotharek as DSK2 and DSK3 to my PEB with a single Tandon drive. For this I'm using a standard PC floppy cable with TWO floppy connectors, one of which is twisted. When I connect the Tandon drive only, I can catalog DSK1 just fine. When I connect the Lotharek only, I can catalog DSK2 and DSK3 just fine. (Note that jumpering the Lotharek appropriately will take care of the twisted cable, I think.) If I connect both, though, then cataloging either DSKx yields "DISK NOT INITIALIZED". I've also tried removing the resistor pack on the drive (I suppose this is "A" in the photo, not "B"?!), but it didn't affect the result at all. (Or are you supposed to plug in something else instead?) Is my approach misguided? What's the difference between attaching a single cable with two connectors to the main controller plug and attaching two cables with a single connector to both main and rear-facing controller plugs?
  5. From the album: My Game Collection

    Commodore 1541 floppy drive, Aquired with my Commodore SX-64 Computer
  6. Hello All! I recently picked up a Mac LC III curbside and it generally works great, and is running OS 7.1. I cleaned up the case and blew a bunch of duster inside (including floppy) to ensure it would work as well as possible. The machine itself works great, but when I try to put in a floppy, it will ALWAYS ask me to format it. It sounds like I remember they are supposed to sound, and it ejects the disk properly. It will attempt to format but then after the second check say "initialization failed" and eject the disc. I am wondering if: -Its bad discs (only have one pack of mac disks right now, others up at my parents need to go grab) -Its a bad drive (not repairiable, needs to be replaced) -The drive needs to be properly cleaned with a cleaning kit, internal dirt/grime on the read mechanism is whats the issue Additional information: -I tried yet to be formatted one sided discs from my Atari ST and those also wouldn't format -The discs I was using would read and format on my G3 Pismo, but then would crash the computer when I tried to eject them and then become corrupted. What is your take and what should I do FIRST? Thanks in advance!! Worst case scenario I do have an external 3.5 drive that I use with my IIgs I could always try..
  7. Has the Percom AT-88 Doubler ROM ever been dumped?
  8. Just wondering how others are duping copies of their existing TI 5.25" Floppies to volumes used for the nanoPEB? I imagine one way would be to connect the original PEB, then use an RS-232 data transfer to the PC using some software to receive the TI disk and store it on the PC HD. But, I was wondering if there was an easier way? I was looking for a 5.25" USB floppy drive, but apparently noone ever made them (I have a USB 3.5" but obviously not much use for the TI). Are there adapter/sleds that allow 5.25" USB connections to occur? Maybe there is another way that just isn't obvious to me. TIA
  9. Hello everyone, I did some searching and didn't find anything here, and my internet searches have turned up varied results, but I'm trying to look for the best solution to connect 8" drives with the 50 pin format to the ATR 8000 with the 34 pin format. I don't recall if my old drives had an adapter board on them to step it down, but since I have ribbon cables a mile long that should have been for those drive cabinets back in the day, I can see it was a straight 34 pin cable. There's some people selling boards with various capabilities, but they might not be what I need for my purposes, so I thought I'd check in here. I'm sure only a small handful of people will have any experience with these anyway with the Atari systems. If nothing is out there, my next question would be whether there is logic in the adaptation to allow the drives to work, or if it was simply a straight cable that didn't use extra pins for additional functionality that the 8" drives may be capable of. I think I can find schematics and make a cable if it comes to it, and maybe even off of what came with the drives. Thanks for any information you guys might have to offer. --Todd--
  10. For this CoCo2 I am selling, I found several 3.5" floppy drives which will work with the FD-501 interface. I understand RSDOS only uses these disks as SSDD for 160k of storage and to use the WD1773 controller to its fullest you would need OS9. It looks like there are some 80 track modifications available which would allow for 720k 3.5" drives. All that considered, is there a lot of call in the CoCo world for 3.5" drives? If so then I should go ahead and mount one in this FD-501 case.
  11. So, I have a bunch of Atari stuff for sale. I'm not sure as to what to price it (I'm not an Atari guy, I'm a Nintendo guy), and I'd like it to go to a Atari collector or someone who will put it to use/appreciate it. I'm not looking to make a killing. I just want a fair/going price for the stuff. It all works. The list consists of: Atari 520ST - Good shape - powers on/runs Atari 1040ST - Good shape - powers on/runs Atari 520ST - poor shape - powers on/runs 3.5 SF354 Atari 850 Atari 810 - 5.25 XM 301 410 Cassette Monitor SC1224 It's a rough list. I imagine most of you on here will know more about what I have. I have photos. Some of them are doubles. I want to make sure you can see the condition of the items. https://imgur.com/a/doqNz
  12. Hi all, I'm looking into getting a floppy drive for my 99, but I don't want to break the bank for one. Is there anywhere (or any other type of drive) that I could get? What are all your suggestions? Thanks!
  13. hello there! got my 1050 back running with sio2pc and winape so far. off the new users topic got some files and stuff to try and it works. now how could i create custom disks with more than one game on it? how can i see if a game would run as (known from c64) onefiler? do you use or recommend a special DOS for it? or file copier? how should i start? thx
  14. qnr

    I'm cutting edge

    From the album: My items

  15. SOLD! $35 Shipped 1 Fellows and 1 Memorex 3.5" disk file box. Both boxes still have their plastic dividers and are if good but used condition. Includes 60+ used discs in various conditions but all were readable when I checked their contents. Some have been erased. Some only had data written to them once and some were used multiple times. Bonus: I've included about 30 brand new disk labels as well.
  16. I want to read disk sectors using PAB >0110 and DSRLNK >A. This kind of worked, after I moved my workspace out of harms way. And yet, it wouldn't read beyond sector 0 for my sample disk. No matter which sector I put into >8350, I always got sector 0. After much hair pulling, I discovered that the read routine won't work for disks with random data on them, i.e., for disks without a (partially) valid TI file system. After I fudged a plausible sector 0 it works like a charm. So what's the magic ingredient -- the sector allocation table, disk geometry, number of AUs? And if reading sectors depends on sector 0, how is sector 0 read?
  17. Hello I am using an Atari STE 520 with a HxC device called the "USB floppy drive emulator" in revision D made by Lotharek. This is the version which lacks jumper switches, but lets you select the device ID in software. Using this device as a internal floppy drive works acceptable. However I run into problems when I try to use it as an external FDD with a cable made by this guide: http://www.atari-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=26656 Sadly the Wiki entry which is mentioned in this guide is broken. All internal jumpers inside my STE are on their default (http://info-coach.fr/atari/hardware/interfaces.php) so pin 5 of the 14 pin connector would try to reach a FDD with ID 1 (rather than 0). The problem is that it won't work for me... The control LED of the HxC device for floppy access just lights up if I set the HxC to DS2 (all normal) or DS1 (with twisted cable). With those configuration I can for example open the floppy folder of "orbital destroyer". The internal FDD does sounds when doing so. If I then start the game the internal FDD continues to make sound, but the external one isn't used. The problem is the same if I cut the cable of (Atari STE-) pin 5 having it floating (Atari STE pin 6 still connected). However cutting 6 while having 5 still connected doesn't work. Does someone of you operate a Atari STE 520 with a Lotharek USB floppy drive emulator as external FDD? Is this possible, or is there a funky bug? Has anybody an idea what I am doing wrong? PS: Of Orbital Destroyer I have the actual 3.5 inch and I am going to put it to SPS tonight =) With kind regards Ben
  18. I know that there are a few other threads on 1050 disk drive repair, so I hope I am forgiven for starting a new one. Hopefully some of my techniques might help others. Back in November a bunch of Atari 8 bit stuff was put on Ebay UK by a seller - "ginger_colin". It was all "buy it now" and most items were "for parts or not working", even though for the computer systems he showed the computer as operational in the pictures. Someone grabbed a bargain Atari 800 for less than £100. A number of items sounded like they needed a clean. I bought a 1050 for £30, then a day or so later bought a second for £35. I bought the first to use the case for an Atari related project which I started back in 2000, but then the second just seemed too good a bargain to pass up. The second drive was badly protected (hardly any bubble wrap) and when I took the drive apart it was clear that it had taken quite a hit during delivery. I powered up drive #1, but it was completely dead. I powered up drive #2 (the damaged one) and switching on and off several times, it operated the drive once only. So I knew that I had a repair project on my hands. I took both drives apart and cleaned the cases (using JIF and soap) and used a brush to get rid of fine black "dust". I suspect that the original owner was a smoker. Drive #2 had broken and cracked support pillars. The switch was bent up - quite a feat if you know the size of the 3 pins of this switch, as was the LED. The LED bent back, but the switch didn't. The tab to open the drive was completely stuck, as it was clear that the drive had been hit hard on the front. The brown front plastic surround was cracked and pieces broken off in the bottom left corner. Much later I also noticed that the front of the mech was also cracked. To his credit the seller refunded the money for drive #2 without me even asking. He was also selling a bare mechanism, and having communicated with him it sounded like this was due to him having to replace another drive (for a different buyer) which must also have been broken in the post (I assume that he must have had to replace the plastic case leaving him with a spare mech). I removed both mechs and used a multimeter and scope to check the power supplies. Both drives checked out OK and the 5V looked very clean. The 6507 clocks for both drives were good and RSTB was working correctly. What surprised me was that for both drives the address lines were not toggling. This puzzled me as if the firmware was not seeing the mech I would have thought that the code would end up in a tight "error" loop so giving some 6507 address line toggling. I surmised that the CPUs have executed some bad opcodes which crashed the CPUs, possibly due to back RAM used for the stack. So I then started a more thorough examination. I will post more later, so those that are not interested do not have to wade through a long initial posting.
  19. Remember the idea of creating a 3.5 drive for XL line of computer and devices? I remember that someone posted a 1050 styled kyroflux case. I found it and I guess it can be modified or even used like that as a first prototype. It is a great starting point, but it might need some work to make it SF551 board compatible. As you can see in the link, the kyroflux board goes under the floppy drive itself. Something similar could be done for SF551 as long as the height of the board is not too much. The back openings may need some work as well. I think is will look very cool and usable for large collection of games, images ans some demos. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3287420
  20. dhe


    Hi, I've seen this board mentioned in a number of post, but in sort of an off handed manner. https://webstore.kryoflux.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=30&osCsid=a6388d9b56b704f3508ee011d400fa76 I was wondering how people use it for transferring TI files, and how successful they have been. Ideally, I could hook this up with a 5.25" drive to my PC, and dump files and use them with Classic99/PC99/MAME ? Thanks
  21. So a while back I bought a 5.25 floppy drive to copy old floppies. I found out my PC was to new and the BIOS couldn't work with it. The other day I rescued a Compaq Deskpro 2000 from the curb and I stuck the drive in there. I popped in an old Lotus 1 2 3 disk and the thing works. Now I want to start copying some 99/4a roms onto some floppies but I'm not sure how to go about it. What software will I use for this? Do I want to use an emulator? This thing is running Win 98 and has no USB or ethernet so im probably going to have to burn cd's to bring files to it so I want to get this right without burning coasters. I'm hoping someone experienced with this can point me in the right direction. Thanks.
  22. Hello all, What an excellent forum! I've read here for sometime now. Been using my STe 4 mb RAM for years for Cubase and composing music. It's also got some great synth editors! I recently moved back to the UK from the United States, and my STe upon unpacking is not working. There appears to be no physical damage, however only the power light is coming on when I try to boot. No video output, and the FD 3.5" is not even trying to read. No light on it. Not even a faint one. There's also no audio. I've reseated the RAM, but that's about it. No luck with that by the way. I do have a 520 which I've swapped the PSU with, but nothing doing there either. The 1040 supply is working fine. Just something on the MB is not! I'm no electronics engineer, but I do understand a multimeter. I don't see any discoloration or cracks on the MB, but maybe I ought to check somewhere specific? Capacitors also look OK. Anybody have any ideas? Is it worth trying to fix, or should I say goodbye to my loyal friend since 1990 and replace him with a new Atari? Thanks, Fran
  23. FORGET ABOUT THIS THREAD HERE !! please got to http://atariage.com/forums/topic/239002-floppy-disk-controller/
  24. As the nanoPEB and CF7+ are no longer available, is there any way to connect a 360k/720k 3.5" floppy drive to the TI-99/4a without dealing with the shipping costs of the PEB? Thanks in advance!
  25. Last night I went through a torrent of hardware swapping and hours of troubleshooting. I recently picked up a Sony MP-F11W-2Z 720k floppy drive with the intention to use it either in my TI* or as a replacement mechanism in my Commodore 1581. But I ran into a problem. Connected to a CoCo2 the drive works perfectly fine: it will format a disk and use it. However, when connected to the BwG the drive will format but fails verifying sectors starting at 720, which is at roughly 180k of a 360k format. I connected a Panasonic JU-257 (1.44MB drive) and get the same results with the BwG. Other drives produce the same results. As expected, the drive head does not traverse the entire disk surface. FWIW, the BwG and the CoCo's FD-501 both use the WD1773. I may be over-thinking it but my first thought was "precompensation." Seems a bit of a stretch. Can anyone steer me in the right direction here? * Understanding, of course, only 360k of the disk will be usable.
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