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I believe the most common way that most techs will install UAVs into the 6 switch consoles, is using the 4050 piggy back method that is similar to that of the 5200. This method does work of course for most, but there are a few reason why you might not want to go with this installation method. - The 4050 is critical in the operations of the 6 switch console as it not only has buffering for the video signals, but also is part of the main logic behind the fire button / trigger controls on these older models. - There are instances of the 4050 +5 voltages to the chip not being consistent and even being too low to power the UAV properly while working fine in the console otherwise. - Requires some tight solder work to attach the socket on top of the 4050 which again, is a critical IC in the system and 40+ years old in most of these consoles. - The 4050 is quite susceptible to ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) damage. So not using proper equipment rated to be ESD safe and setup properly can damage the 4050 when touching and soldering to it directly. Although the 4050 is a cheap IC part and still made new today in this form factor, I find it best to stay clear of the IC and I get much better and more consistent results when I point to point solder wire from other locations back to the UAV. As such, this guide can be looked at as an alternate installation method and not the only way to do it. But this is the method I've been using for several years now to install UAVs into 6 switch Atari consoles. UAV (Ultimate Atari Video) Layout:- The UAV has basically remained the same on its design and layout since around 2017 when the current revision D was released. I only use the basic UAV board in all of my installs as I find that easier to wire to and provides me more flexibility overall. Below is a diagram showing you the spots on the UAV you need to be concerned with on NTSC 2600 Installations. In all installs, the UAV will need to have power, ground, color signal, and a few other video signals provided to it for it to function properly. These signals come from the TIA chip. Take NOTE that you attach the signal wires for S, 1, 2, & 3 along the center and smaller vias on the UAV. If you have a pre-built UAV with a header block soldered here, just solder wiring to the tops of the header pins to make it easier. Different revisions:- The 6-switch NTSC consoles come in only two main versions. What we call the Heavy sixer and the light sixer variant. Most of the differences between the two models are on the separate attached switch boards and not on the main board containing the core logic of the game system. As a result, the method shown for UAV wiring is the same between both models of the 6-switch NTSC consoles. Power, Ground and Color resistor:- The UAV requires power and ground to operate . The 6-switch models also have an 800Ωish resistor located at R213 just about below center of the TIA chip. The picture below shows good points to get +5v (R207)and ground (C204 or C203) connections from. Additionally, the color resistor that is in place, must be disabled from circuit as it will cause hue/tint issues on the UAV that cannot be adjusted out using the color trimmer wheel. I usually de-solder the leg and use shrink tubing around it to isolate it, while keeping in place in case the resistor should ever be put back into service for some reason. You can also just clip the leg with side flush cutters as well. NTSC TIA signal component locations for UAV:- The signals needed from the TIA can be gotten from points directly off empty vias on the main board or from a nearby component leg. Again, these are alternate locations that I use for UAV installs as there is plenty of room to solder everything to and it keeps the wiring from the UAV to the main board pretty short. The signal points on the UAV for S, 1, 2, 3, Co In, & Audio are shown below. You might have to carefully bend the resistors to the side a little bit to allow for more room to access these spare vias. Audio Connection:- As shown in the previous picture, there is an unused via next to capacitor C210. This via is connected directly to pins 12 and 13 off the TIA and is where I tap the signal needed for the audio output. However, as this is the raw signal from the TIA it is a bit too strong and I advise adding in an additional 10µf capacitor and resistor inline to help bring the level down a bit. The level of resistance it up to you and isn't required but I wouldn't go above 10k as that is likely to be too low for use and again you might be fine with how it sounds without one at all. Also be advised that this point has both pins 12 and 13 already combined so it will only provide a mono output from both channels of the TIA audio. UAV output wiring:- The output side of the UAV is along the same point that you attached the TIA color signal wire to. All of your output signal jacks will require a connection for the signal output and also ground. What I usually do in my installs is to run a shared ground wire for both audio and composite video from the ground pin near the composite output on the UAV. I then run another second shared ground for the chroma and luma outputs for s-video using the ground pin between Co In and chroma out on the UAV outputs. The diagram below shows the S-video connections on the female s-video as viewed from the front of the s-video jack. What about that blue box thing on the UAV, what is that for? :- The blue box near the output side on the UAV is a trimmer adjustment for changing the way color artifacting looks through composite output. However, this trimmer has no impact when used on the 2600 console as it was mainly put into place for using the UAV on the Atari 8-bit computers where more games used NTSC artifacting. And that pretty much sums it up. The work required to install the UAV into a 6-switch 2600 in this manner might seem like more work, but I think the consistent results and less risk to the TIA and 4050 IC are worth it in these particular installs. And in the case of the NTSC 6-switch consoles, the empty spot on the main board above the TIA is a great place to attach the UAV and have everything needed right there close by. Here is an example of one I've done using the information I've posted above to give you an idea.

If you haven't read my other post i wanted to get a list going on 6'ers serial numbers to see who here has the oldest. I found out that it was going to be a little more difficult than that, seeing how nobody really knows what the suffix letter represents or what letters were used. So it was suggested that it might still be a decent idea if for no other reason than just to see what suffixes were used. Just post what the # on your 6'er is and any other pertinent info (i.e. Sears or Atari console, Taiwan made or anything other info you think would be useful). I will try to update daily and rearrange according to company and suffix letter. I will start the list in my second post with my own two that i currently have.

Never opened, new in box Sears Tele-games console and original games, paddles and joysticks. Sears version of the classic Atari 2600. This is the 'heavy sixer' version made in Sunnyvale California. The box is unopened as shown in the pictures. All the original parts, manuals, games, controllers, paddles, joysticks, power supply and packaging is original and intact inside. Parents bought two of these, one for me and one for my sister growing up in the late 1970's. We only ever opened and played with one of them and this one was forgotten about at my parents house until recently when I found it in their attic. This is a rare find as I am sure anyone on this site would know. Asking $500 OBO. Contact me at Camberdan@icloud.com if interested

I recently picked up a Light Sixer CX-2600 but it came in a box that says Atari 2400. I have not been able to find any info on the existence of such a thing. Did they just make the boxes but not the systems? The only unique thing on the box says "Distributed in Canada by Irwin Electronics" so could this be special packaging used just in Canada?

Hello again! I've got a bunch of stuff for sale now and more to come in the future so I figured it'd be best to make one thread for all of it. Here we go: General rule: if you spend over $100 and live in the continental US, I'll pay for shipping. Everyone else, we'll work something out. Options are UPS or USPS If you want more pics of anything just let me know. Everything is tested within the last year and working unless noted. Studio II: Photos: https://ibb.co/album/SRSGyF Games (all CIB): Fun With Numbers - $20 Tennis/Squash - $25 School House II: Math Fun - $20 Biorhythm - $60 Speedway/Tag - $85 Atari 2600: https://ibb.co/album/RjrWxL Controllers: (Keyboard and VTP were sold to me as NOS, making me the only one to use them) Driving Controller CIB - $70 (will throw in loose Indy 500 if you want) Keyboard Controller CIB - $30 Video Touch Pad - $25 Launch Games: https://ibb.co/album/rk7n3g Other Games: https://ibb.co/album/Y0vN0n Duplicates: https://ibb.co/album/52R97w Games (all CIB) (I believe all are text label as well as I tried to collect the earliest version of each game - will double check for any inquiries): 3-D Tic-Tac-Toe - $15 Adventure - $105 Air-Sea Battle: -Gatefold Launch Version - $40 -Later Boxed Version, instructions colored in with pen - $10 Backgammon - $20 BASIC Programming - $55 Basketball - $20 Blackjack - Gatefold version - $25 Bowling - $15 Brain Games - $35 Canyon Bomber - $15 Casino - $15 Combat: -Gatefold Launch Version - $50 -Gatefold Red Border - $40 -Gatefold Silver Border - $25 -Later Version - $20 -Later Glossier Version - $20 Flag Capture - $20 Football - $15 (manual signed by...someone?) Hangman - $30 Indy 500: -Gatefold, non-controller version - $60 -loose cart - $5 (will also throw in with Driving Controller if you buy that and want this) Night Driver - $20 Sky Diver - $15 Slot Machine - $45 Slot Racers - $24 Space Jockey - comes with original US Games Corp. shipping box - $25 Space War - $20 Street Racer - not gatefold - $15 Superman - wallet sticker (no wallet) - front of box is damaged - $85 Surround - Gatefold version - $50 Video Chess - $20 Video Olympics: -Gatefold version - $30 -Gatefold version (lesser quality) - $25 Intellivision: https://ibb.co/album/tLLz13 Intellivision console 2609 - $200 Refurbished by a fellow user on here, not sure if he's still operating. Works beautifully! Loose, no box or anything. Sears Tele-Games Super Video Arcade - $125 Works great but does not come with the RF wire, only the power chord that is built in. I played it by swapping the wire from the INTV back and forth. Also loose, no box. Atari 5200: https://ibb.co/album/nqmBLL Console & 3 loose games (Dig Dug, Joust, Super Breakout) - $100 So here's the deal with this one...bought it on eBay, it powers up but does not display on the screen. I waited too long to file the claim with eBay, thinking the seller would make it right, so I couldn't refund it or anything. If anyone wants to take a shot at repairing this for cheap + shipping, please have at it! Other notes: the back plastic flip-piece that covers the controllers has a crack in it (pictured) and one of the controllers has its rubber flipped/not connected. The games work though! More to come (Atari 2600, Magnavox Odyssey 2, Intellivision, Colecovision) Will consider trades for: Intellivision ECS Intellivision Keyboard Coleco Super Action Controller

Very recently, a fascinating listing came up for what *appears* to be a French, boxed heavy sixer at just 110 dollars. The seller isn't willing to take the console out of the box again to take more pictures so I need help with identification, is this indeed a heavy sixer? If so, then I'm **absolutely** going to buy this, I've never had the 2600 box before, or a heavy sixer, so this would be a real treat for me. Help is massively appreciated, thanks!

Hi there, Im new to the forum. I just purchased a brand new sealed 1977 Atari 2600 Heavy Sixer. Could anyone give me N idea on value? Thanks Kevin

Hi, all! I have a Heavy Sixer that, after a good cleaning, seemed to be working fine. I booted up Video Pinball and was playing through a second game when the game failed and goes all distorted, kind of like when the contacts don't line up properly between the system and cart. I had been playing on and off for about 15 minutes at that point, Super Breakout, then Kaboom!, then Video Pinball. It sounds to me like something is overheating and causing the failure after a little play time. Any suggestions on what I should be looking for/replacing/resoldering/etc.?

hello everyone.. I'm looking for the hi-res artwork that was on the main console box. Does anyone know where I might find this... thanks! michael

Did I break the RIOT Chip or pop a Cap in my Sixer? Left controller port Trigger line has stopped registering, but everything else on the Heavy Sixer works fine - I just watched this Atari RIOT chip replacement video and have some questions - Atari 2600 "RIOT" chip replacement - YouTube With the Heavy Sixer I see there is a Daughterboard with round caps and resistors between the Controller ports and the RIOT chip - this is missing on the Vader model in the video or integrated into the mainboard. I suspect the high potentials may have fried one of these round caps and possibly not the RIOT Chip since the Heavy Sixer is otherwise working fine. Section 4-27 of the Field Agent Service manual appears to suggest the Controller daughterboard and replacing these components - ATARI 2600/2600A VCS Domestic Field Service Manual; FD100133, Rev.02 (robotsandcomputers.com) Details on what caused the hardware fault: The left controller plug fell out of the Heavy Sixer and when I plugged it back in a large Spark jumped between my hand and the pins on the port while the Atari was powered on (freezing it) so I think the high potential overloaded a Cap or fried something in the RIOT (hopefully not, Best Electronics is fresh out).

Hello everyone, It has been quite a while since I have posted on this forum, and I am glad to be back. My collection of vintage computers, consoles, and other electronics has increased significantly. With this, I purchased an official Sunnyvale heavy sixer with two paddles and CX-10 joysticks in addition to my other defective heavy sixer. The most recent one I got with the included paddles and joysticks at first has no snowy picture, no problems with peripherals working, and perfect sound. However, with that being said, there is a small problem of some colors randomly changing hues on different games (not all of them, as far as I can tell). Also, when I first received it, the games would start normally, but after a while the screen became a fuzzy grey. It hasn't happened recently, but it worries me that something is wrong inside the Atari. I read up on other posts that this can happen as a result of a faulty av cable, a faulty capacitor, or the power regulator failing. Is it possible that either of them are nonfunctional, if not all? If I need to repair a part of the console, how much would it cost and what materials would I need to use? Thank you for replying, Matt S.

Hello everyone! After my other post I made about a year or two ago, I have been taking apart and reassembling my Heavy Sixer. I have been inspecting the switch board and motherboard, and noticed something very strange. The logic board itself (the board inside the metal RF case) has a drastically different layout than most heavy sixers. It has a more simple, greenish color than other boards, and looks like the one I will show below (picture from a different atariage user). From what he said, the serial number sticker on the back of the console was missing, just like mine. In addition, there are two stickers on the metal casing inside the console, unlike his, however. I will attach a picture of this as well. Perhaps this is a reconditioned unit? There is no sticker on the back labeled "factory reconditioned". I am very confused. Also, there is a label on the back that reads: "REV 1" and "c012173". What do these mean?

My father gave me a NIB Atari 2600 Six Switch Heavy Sixer as a present for my one year old son. I had a few questions for anyone that has a NIB Atari like this, or if anyone else possibly had answers to my questions. Being a huge fan of the Atari growing up, and receiving such a rare awesome gift like this I wanted to reach out for guidance. Do you have any idea what this is worth? I looked on various sites for price guides, but I didn't see the heavy sixer version priced out? Are those companies that grade and capsule collectibles worth doing? The box is in great shape, and sealed on both ends with no holes, or punctures on the box. I will post pics soon.

For sale is a Sears Tele-games heavy sixer I LOVINGLY restored from death. Works beautifully. The console itself is in wonderful condition (see pictures). Had to replace the 7805 and the power switch. I didn’t want to, but had no choice. I’ve included an rf coax adapter for your tv. Also included are two CX-10 Sticks that I completely restored myself, one of which has the Sears hex-sticker (super rare) and the other does not, but both have been restored to perfect working order. Also included are the original Sears paddles, taken apart and cleaned- working perfectly with no jitter. I’ve included the original power supply, but it’s not working properly - will only get up to 5.5v of the required 9V output. Someone with more skill than me might be able to bring it back. I’ve also included a period appropriate radio shack replacement power supply that works perfectly. Finally are four Sears launch titles CIB - Pong Sports, Bowling, Target Fun and Baseball. The top lid to Bowling is creased and won’t stay closed - the cart is also slightly faded. Pong is pretty rare as well. This has been a project of love, but I honestly won’t play it and want it to go to a good home. Asking $275. Thanks.

I came across a pretty amazing 2600 haul a few weeks ago that I couldn't pass up even though my collecting leans more toward the NES era. Some of this stuff is so rare that I wanted to give my fellow collectors a shot at it instead of just throwing it up on Ebay. Obviously I don't have any seller feedback here on AtariAge but I just did a big NES buy on NintendoAge and I've done a lot of trades with feedback on Digitpress.com. Here's the link but you have to be signed in to DP to see it: https://forum.digitpress.com/forum/showthread.php?89996-Andred Here's what I've got for sale. PM me with offers Imagic 2600 Retail Demo Kiosk ($Taking offers) https://imgur.com/a/XYVSi Definitely the best piece. These kiosks were used in store (I've heard K-Mart from a few sources but they were probably in other stores as well). They are designed to allow the demo of 24 cartridges for a set period of time which is controlled by a dial on the back. It plugs into the cartridge slot and controller port (to allow multiple types of controllers?) of a standard 2600 console and has built-in software that allows you to select a specific game and does all the switching. They are incredibly rare now. In doing hours of research I could only find about 5 distinct examples of it. Here's everything I know about the condition of it. It works, as you can see in the images. I'm not selling a console with it but it has little removable metal brackets on the bottom that allow you to put in whatever console you'd like. It had a light sixer in it when I bought it. All the damage to it is from previous owners. Rather than try to do any restoring myself, I've decided to leave it alone and let the buyer restore it to whatever level they'd like. The condition is probably fair to good, as I would label it. Here are the flaws: Broken corner on acrylic shield. shield is also fairly scratched up in places dings and chips in the wood frame (1 chunk is pretty large) 'B' button doesn't work (might be cold solder or the switch could be dead, I can't tell) minor corrosion on metal back minor laminate peeling Even with all those issues, it's a seriously cool collector's piece and looks great on the shelf. Here's the thread after I found it: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/269437-found-an-imagic-kiosk/ I have a general idea of what it's worth but I'm looking for offers on this. Newport Prosticks ($50 each) 2 of these things came in the lot with the Imagic kiosk. Took a while to figure out what they were. Looks like it's a very rare joystick that was only available via mail-order directly from the company. As a result, very few were sold. They're very difficult to get info on and even harder to find. The bad news is they don't really work. On one, the joystick works but the inside bracket that holds the button in place is broken so the button can just be pushed into the body. The other one is completely inoperable. Someone who knows more about these old electronics can probably fix them up and have a great collector's item on their hands.

Hello everyone, Listed is a Sears-branded "Heavy Sixer" Atari VCS/2600 with beautiful original box, Sears-branded paddles, sticks and 2 games (Target Fun and 01 Combat, both Sears editions). The power supply is original to the unit and very rare to find together. I personally took this unit apart and cleaned everything and adjusted the color. The switches needed some work but they're perfect now. With the exception of an occasional small mark, and the small tear that's visible on the flap of the box, this set is beautiful. This is very much for the completist and I'm not that person. I was thinking of hanging onto it but already have two player units and don't know I'd use this that much. I'd rather see it go to a good home. I've researched and this is the lowest price you will find for a Sears Heavy Sixer of this quality with an original box in this condition (on ebay at least). Other listings have boxes that are pretty wrecked. This is a large package with the original box included. I can ship it however you like - with the unit in the box, or (my preference) the box separate from the console, which would be bubble wrapped separately. Obviously it's large and heavy (hence the name). Buyer to pay actual shipping costs - will ship it however you like with USPS Priority my preference. PM me with any questions you may have! Asking $350 or will trade for some systems I don't have, like Colecovision, Intellivision, Vectrex, etc. Thanks for looking

This guy (with a rating of 100%) from the UK wants over 100$ for what he claims to be a heavy sixer, but after 10 seconds of looking at the thing you can obviously see it's an ordinairy one. ​1. the power brick is for a later VCS 2. the joysticks have TOP written on them ​3. the edge on the sides of the atari is thin ​Now it also happens to miss the bottom label and a picture of the front of the machine was never taken. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-2600-Woody-Heavy-Sixer-Console-Un-tested-Rare-Retro-Vintage-/282436802067?hash=item41c28b9613:g:Y8YAAOSwE0JY9SSM Am i overanalysing this or does anyone else think that this is, well... odd? This seller must clearly know that there's a difference between the two since it's been listed as a heavy sixer specifically ​But it's probably just poor research or something.

Shipping is not included in prices. Post sold for the items you want then PM me for shipping quote. Thanks! Pending - 4 Switch Woody with original atari power supply - tested and working $29 Also available are 2 CX-40 joysticks $8 each and 1 set of paddles (no jitter) for $5. Each Buyer of the two consoles has first option to purchase the controllers (2 joys & one paddle set). If you aren't buying a console you can claim the controllers pending sale of the consoles and confirmation that they don't want to buy the controllers. Boxed Atari 2600 games: Midnight Magic $10 Amidar $7 Moon Patrol $10 Atari 2600 Games with manual: SOLD - Centipede $3 Chopper Command $3 Donkey Kong $4 SOLD - Pac-Man $2 Super Challenge Baseball $3 SOLD - Video Pinball $3 Atari 2600 Loose Games: Amidar $3 Battlezone $4 Blackjack (text label) $2 Bowling (picture label) 42 Centipede $2 Championship Soccer (text label) $2 Combat (picture label) $2 SOLD - Decathlon $4 Football (picture label) $2 SOLD - Kangaroo $3 Keystone Kapers $3 SOLD - Ms. Pac-Man $2 Ms. Pac-Man $2 Pac-Man $1 Pitfall $6 Q-bert $3 Reactor $3 Space Invaders (picture label) $1 Starmaster $2 Summer Games $3 Super Challenge Football $2 Taz $5 Tennis $2 Warlords $1 SOLD ITEMS: SOLD - Sears Tele-Games Heavy Sixer and original gray power adapter - tested and working with 2 CX-40 Joysticks, 1 set of Paddles, Centipede, Pac-Man, Video Pinball, Ms. Pac-Man