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  1. I'm not sure if anyone can help me with this, but ! Here goes ! I recently found a good emulator for the NEC PC6001. I need it to complete a video for my youtube channel but I'm having difficulties getting it to run a .cas image for pac-man that I found on Archives.org. I have't been able to find an alternate image of this game anywhere online. I do know it exists because of this. http://p6ers.net/hashi/emupacman.html I've tried to make it work in Mess & with PC6001VW Emulator to no avail. Anyone know where I can get an alternate rom image to work with this emulator. Because so far I'm turning up nothing in my searches. Attached are the clips I currently have.
  2. I am having a small issue with my code. I am trying to get the duck to stop when it reaches the top after hitting the flyaway state. However no matter what I try the code gets ignored. Source Code Relevant section Any of you experts have any ideas on what's going on?
  3. Hello AtariAge! I have recently picked up a CompuMate (from Venezuela, of course), serial # BC 0100028381. Right now there is a bit of an issue with mine. Every time I switch it on, either I am stuck with a blank black screen or a mess of different coloured bars, accompanied with a buzz. The coloured bars and hum are different colours and pitch every time. It might just need a good cleaning, but if anyone else has any other tips, I would appreciate it. Thanks Here are some photos of whats been happening
  4. This forum has a lot of information hidden away in its depths. The repetition of the same questions indicates that locating that information is not as easy as it could be. Ideally I would like to create a metasearch so you could use one search box- but you would be deluged with possible answers and I don't have the resources anyway. So... I have created a page of searches for you to use. In some cases you need to prefix your search with "ti-99/4a" in quotes to focus the results on our favourite computer - I have noted this when especially relevant. How you use quotation marks is important in reducing unhelpful results - but overuse may cause you to miss something, so practice with varying search forms. Just putting lots of words without quotation marks is not usually useful and just one or two words may overwhelm you.. If I have omitted a resource rich web site (which does not require javascript!) do let me know.and I will update this offering. So- open this htm file in your browser and save it to your local machine where you can then open it at will. Have fun tisearch.htm
  5. Hey there everyone, I just started learning to program the Atari 2600 in Assembly recently and I think that I have learned a great deal. However, I seem to have hit a road block. Initially, when I first started programming playfields and backgrounds, I plugged the values in line by line like this: .fctbNone{ color:#e0e0e0; }.fctbStyle0{ color:#adff2f;font-style:oblique; }.fctbStyle3{ color:#ffd700; }.fctbStyle5{ color:#ee82ee; }.fctbStyle4{ color:#00bfff; }.fctbStyle2{ color:#ffa500; }.fctbStyle1{ color:#00ffff;font-weight:bold; }.fctbStyle1Style3{ color:#00ffff;font-weight:bold; }.fctbStyle2Style3{ color:#ffa500; }.fctbStyle6{ color:#ff6347; }.fctbStyle0Style6{ color:#adff2f;font-style:oblique; }; < GAME TITLE >; < AUTOR > processor 6502 include "vcs.h" include "macro.h" ;---------- LABELS ----------;---------------------------- SEG ORG $F000Reset; Initialize TIA/RAM; ------------------ LDX #0 LDA #0 Clear STA 0,X INX BNE Clear ; Initialize Labels; ----------------- COMPILE_VERSION = NTSC NTSC =#1 LDA #%00000001 STA $82 LDA #$BC STA COLUPF LDA $82 STA CTRLPF ; Start Game; ----------StartOfFrame LDA #0 STA VBLANK LDA #2 STA VSYNC ; VSYNC Signal STA WSYNC STA WSYNC STA WSYNC LDA #0 STA VSYNC ; Vertical Blank LDX #0 VerticalBlank STA WSYNC INX CPX #37 BNE VerticalBlank ; Scanlines LDX #0IDIOT INX LDA #$C4 STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #40 BNE IDIOT LDA #$C4 STA COLUPF LDA #$0 STA COLUBK LDA #%11111111 STA PF0 STA PF1 LDA #%10111111 STA PF2 MORAL INX LDA #$CA STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #42 BNE MORAL LDA #%11100000 STA PF0 LDA #%11001111 STA PF1 LDA #%00011111 STA PF2CORAL INX LDA #$CA STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #44 BNE CORAL LDA #%11000000 STA PF0 LDA #%10000111 STA PF1 LDA #%00001111 STA PF2NORAL INX LDA #$CA STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #46 BNE NORAL LDA #%10000000 STA PF0 LDA #%00000011 STA PF1 LDA #%00000111 STA PF2STEVE INX LDA #$CA STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #48 BNE STEVE LDA #%00000000 STA PF0 LDA #%00000001 STA PF1 LDA #%00000011 STA PF2PTEVE INX LDA #$CA STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #50 BNE PTEVE LDA #0 STA PF0 STA PF1 STA PF2BIGB INX LDA #$CA STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #110 BNE BIGB BIGBB INX LDA #$2E STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #130 BNE BIGBB BIGBBB INX LDA #$2C STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #150 BNE BIGBBB FED INX LDA #$0 STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #192 BNE FED EndScreen LDA #%01000010 STA VBLANK ; Overscan LDX #0Overscan STA WSYNC INX CPX #30 BNE Overscan ; Next Frame ; ---------- JMP StartOfFrame ORG $FFFA .word Reset .word Reset .word Reset END Thanks all! But while I was continuing in the tutorials, I found that my original methodology isnt really going to work (or will it? please let me know!) especially working with a great deal of sprites and backgrounds. So, I have found that most people tend to do play fields more like this: .fctbNone{ color:#e0e0e0; }.fctbStyle0{ color:#adff2f;font-style:oblique; }.fctbStyle3{ color:#ffd700; }.fctbStyle5{ color:#ee82ee; }.fctbStyle4{ color:#00bfff; }.fctbStyle2{ color:#ffa500; }.fctbStyle1{ color:#00ffff;font-weight:bold; }.fctbStyle1Style3{ color:#00ffff;font-weight:bold; }.fctbStyle2Style3{ color:#ffa500; }.fctbStyle6{ color:#ff6347; }.fctbStyle0Style6{ color:#adff2f;font-style:oblique; }; < GAME TITLE >; < AUTOR > processor 6502 include "vcs.h" include "macro.h" ;---------- LABELS ----------;---------------------------- SEG ORG $F000Reset; Initialize TIA/RAM; ------------------ LDX #0 LDA #0 Clear STA 0,X INX BNE Clear ; Initialize Labels; ----------------- COMPILE_VERSION = NTSC NTSC =#1 LDA #%00000001 STA $82 LDA #$BC STA COLUPF LDA $82 STA CTRLPF PFG0 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010PFG1 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010PFG2 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010; Start Game; ----------StartOfFrame LDA #0 STA VBLANK LDA #2 STA VSYNC ; VSYNC Signal STA WSYNC STA WSYNC STA WSYNC LDA #0 STA VSYNC ; Vertical Blank LDX #0 VerticalBlank STA WSYNC INX CPX #37 BNE VerticalBlank ; Scanlines LDX #0 ;THIS AREA IS ENCLOSED FOR THE PASTEINGLDY #0Woah LDA PFG0,X STA PF0 LDA PFG1,X STA PF1 LDA PFG2,X STA PF2 INX STA WSYNC cpx #190 bne Woah;FINISH AREA LDA %00000000 STA PF0 STA PF1 STA PF2FED INX LDA #$0 STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #192 BNE FED EndScreen LDA #%01000010 STA VBLANK ; Overscan LDX #0Overscan STA WSYNC INX CPX #30 BNE Overscan ; Next Frame ; ---------- JMP StartOfFrame ORG $FFFA .word Reset .word Reset .word Reset END So once I tested this I found that I only got some of the playfield filled, the other parts are random. why is this? Can it be fixed?
  6. I was thinking of Modding my 2600 JR to output AV video. I did a mod to my JR around a year ago, and i ended up killing my board when i tried changing the jacks on it, and i can't find the original posting for the mod i Did. I saw this AV mod for the JR, and i was wondering how well it worked. https://atariage.com/howto/composite.html I think i remember some people saying the video quality wasn't the best, but I am just looking for something that is reasonably good enough to use. If the link does not work just try googling "atariage 2600 jr av"
  7. Hey guys. I've seen a lot of good help on this forum that I've used to help me diagnose my Atari 2600 4-switch that has not worked ever since I tried to install a widely used composite mod. (Kit Link Here) I installed it using an instructable (Instructable Link Here) I followed all instructions including removing q202, r209, r222, and c205, aaaaand... nothing it didn't work. (note: when I say nothing, I mean the TV says no signal.) I suspected bad connections but that wasn't it. I tried re-soldering the old components and that did something for a while but then it stopped. Next I thought that it wasn't getting enough power so I checked the power supply and 5v reg. Both were just fine except the 5v Reg had 2 of it's pins crossed. After uncrossing them I got some video for about two seconds and then it quit. (see attached video) I thought it was the chips now so I replaced all 3 (TIA, RIOT, and CPU) and this put me back to the same old no signal screen. I tried the old chips on a working system (w/o composite mod) and they gave a black screen. Not sure what to do at this point. Nothing is abnormally hot. Maybe my somewhat noob soldering skills maybe be a problem Cheers, kalgran Glitching.mp4
  8. I recently bought a broken intellivision off of eBay, and after messing around with it i believe that the problem is the CPU. I don't have a working unit, or any other units for that matter. I was hoping i could find a new cpu (preferably a whole board, in case there is any other problems with it) from someone on this form. I really want to try and play some intv games, especially since they are cheap.
  9. Hello everyone, Please use this thread for any discussion related to RespeQt. This includes but is not limited to questions, bug reports, feature requests, or asking for help. Everyone, feel free to help with any of the above. Thanks, Joe
  10. Hello guys n' gals.... I have a DMG Gameboy with a screwed up LCD. The right part is darker than the left and it has a horizontal line.... (I think I bent the H/V ribbon cables too much...) Could it be replaced??? The LCD is custom, but I have been able to find simmiliar screen sizes and resolutions on the 'Bay... I'd try to get a Gameboy Pocket LCD if I could find them. Probably a Color/Advance LCD wont fit? Any options? Thanks....... Al.
  11. OK, I didn't know if I should post this here or in Hardware, so I just put it here. I just got a 2600 Jr. today and it has a few issues. When you first turn it on, with any game or the Harmony cart, it takes probably 10 seconds before the picture shows up on the TV. When you put a Battlezone cart in and turn it on, it takes a few seconds, then you get the radar and some other random bits of the picture kind of jumping around the screen, then it will show up correctly, but with a very dim picture. In a couple of seconds, the picture brightens up and the colors are all good. If Demons to Diamonds is inserted, same wait time on start-up, but the color and brightness are good. Now, here's the big problem. When you hit reset to start Demons to Diamonds, it goes from color to Black and White. Unplugging the rca cable from the back of the console and then slowly putting it back, will allow you to see a split second of color before it goes B&W again. The same thing happens using the Demons and Diamonds .bin on the Harmony Encore. Also, With the Harmony, if you switch it off, while it's B&W and then switch it right back on, the Harmony menu is in B&W. Switching it off and on again, results in color. The Jr. isn't modded and an inspection of the board showed no bad solder joints or leaky caps. The Serial is A1781245617 The board is CO21503 Revision C On most games, it looks great, the colors and the picture are better than my AV modded Vader and 7800, other than the lack of a picture for a few seconds when you turn it on. Demons to Diamonds is the only game I've found so far that triggers the B&W issue, but I feel like that's a sign of something needing repair. So, does anyone have an answer as to what's wrong with it?
  12. Can someone help me do a very simple hack of Space Invaders where the aliens are blue instead of green. It would also be cool if there was a title screen that said "WUW", but if this is not possible or too complicated to pull of then I understand, and it's not completely necessary for what I'm trying to pull off. Mostly I would just like for the aliens to be blue. Can someone help me out?
  13. Austin

    Sony Vegas Tutorial

    Today I spent some time doing a tutorial on how to use Sony Vegas. Personally, I am using Vegas Pro 10, but what I demonstrate here should be able to be duplicated in the consumer-grade Vegas Movie Studio series as well. It's nothing terribly in-depth, and it is a bit long-winded, but if you want to know how to run some animations and add a few effects, then look no further than this video! ( )
  14. Ive got the INTY basic sdk, some of helpful tools posted here, and the sdk-1600. Now what?
  15. Hey guys! Just cleaned up an old 2600 Vader I got all boxed up for cheap! Works well, with one exception. I'm using an RF to Coax connector straight into my TV(s, i tried it on both a flat and CRT) and I get some decent static. Some games have a fair amount, some are a little crazy. Here's Donkey Kong and Yars Revenge for comparison and diagnosis. http://imgur.com/a/c5tBe Moving the RCA cable around DOES change the amount of static, and at one point I saw it completely gone! Please tell me this isn't a board issue, if it's the RCA cable I should be able to replace that... I'm a young dude with little experience with soldering and that jazz. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
  16. I just picked up a 1010 today and after setting it up it didn't play atari tapes. I thought the belt was broken until i played a music cassette with POKE 54018,52. So than I started fiddling with it and I noticed whenever you press the advance button it gets stuck and the 1010 produces a stuck hum like sound. Any suggestions? -EDIT- fixed. Was bad gear.
  17. Hi, I recently got a good deal on an original GEC model Vectrex system. It's in amazing condition, and works great. But there is one issue. When I play the built in Game Mine Storm (I do not have any other games yet) moving the stick LEFT will make me spin RIGHT endlessly until I move the stick RIGHT to stop it, rather then turn me LEFT. Moving the stick right works perfect, and the buttons are fine, but what can I do about the controller? Is the problem even with my controler or the system? What is wrong? What can I do? Oh a and it would probably help to add that I hear a little rattel inside the controller when I pick it up. PLEASE HELP ME OUT!
  18. So I just downloaded the Atari 800 emulator Rainbow 2.2 and I need some help. I downloaded a Donkey Kong rom to play on the emulator, but I can only use the ctrl button to make Mario jump. What keys do I use for walking? And are keys customizable?
  19. After having Highlander for going on twenty years I finally decided to give it a real go. I have probably only played it for about 30 minutes combined before and never even made it out of the village. After spending some time with it and beating it, I think this is a pretty good game and I would like to see whatever was done with the sequels some day. I do have some questions that I thought some of you might be able to answer: I picked up the Wooden Plank outside the front gate of the village, but I never found a use for it. Does anybody know what it does? If you put in the code to get all the items then you get a Heavy Key. Does anybody know if you can get this in the game normally and if so where it is and what it is used for? This might be the key to open the gate at the end of the canyon that you get off of the gate guard, but I cannot remember what is was called. Is there any way to kill the snipers in the secret canyon path and in the energy dome? I just ran past them after my attempts to kill them with the gas gun proved ineffective. There is a gas gun and some food in the canyon behind the tank. Is there a way to get those without getting shot to hell by the tank? I figured it is a trap, but thought there might be a way to get them. Okay Highlander experts, let's see your knowledge.
  20. Hey all, I recently purchased a Philips VG8020/00 MSX Home Computer. I'm having some trouble getting a decent video signal out of the thing. When I hook it up to my VCR/DVD Combo via the RF out and convert the signal into composite, I get a glitchy screen, jumping from left to right, going from color to black and white. However, the MSX boot up text is present, and when I press keys on the keyboard, they do get added to the screen. I used the automatic tuning options on my VCR/DVD combo, but it sadly does not improve the quality. I also tried connecting a Sega Mega Drive RGB connector to the Monitor out on the computer, but that didn't do anything apart from making some pop noises. I might have to get a different cable to test that out. I also know for sure that my set-up isn't the problem; I've connected other coaxial game-consoles the same way (Atari 2600, Videopac G7000) and they all work. The unit looks fine and all (no mayor external damage). What I did notice though, was some noises inside the machine when I held it sideways; there could be some dirt in there. Also, some buttons get stuck from time to time (especially the directional buttons). I'll open it up and give it a good clean one of these days. Has anyone here experienced similar problems and got them solved? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! I hope the damage (if it has any) is not to severe; would be awesome to get it up and running again! Thanks!
  21. First of all, Hello everyone, i'm new in this forum. Recently I've bought a Mc will mod for Game Gear and I have a problem: When I press 1 and 2 buttons at the same time, the screen change its scale. Normally this only happens when you press 1, 2 and start button too at the same time. Does anyone know if it's possible to fix it?, becouse is a bit annoying because some games needs to press 1 and 2 bottons at the same time. Thank you in advance.
  22. Hey There, new to the forums here, I'm not sure if this is the right place to post but I need some help with my CX2600A Rev 8. I'm not sure if there is a nickname for this model.. its between the light sixer and the vader 2600s. I noticed last week that my 2600 video signal was almost unplayable because of how much snow there was in the screen. I have a little 1999 Sanyo CRT tv that I use for all my RF signal consoles (intellivision/ Commodore/2600) via a Female Rf to Coaxial adapter. It was a trifecta of video problems, general uniform fuzzy/snowy screen, over top that were horizontal rolling bars going bottom to top and over top that were diagonal bars going lower right corner to upper left. It had never been that fuzzy before, I noticed when I moved the RF cable going into the console the fuzziness would change. After taking apart the console and unplugging the video cable, I tried using a modern video cable (the same one I use on my Intellivision with crystal clarity) but the video problems persisted. After looking on these forums for hours I found possible solutions to the issue, but none of them worked - The green "chicklet" capacitor above the power modulator needs to be replaced ---> The CX2600A doesnt have a green chicklet capacitor above the power modulator -Stop using the ancient Rf Box that came with the console and use a Rf-Coaxial adapter ---> I already am -Stop the TV from auto-scanning to lock onto the 2600's signal better to reduce the snow ---> I tried this, the signal was the same -Try jiggling the cart, the game/ game port may need cleaning ---> Nothing happened -Try switching between Channel 2 and Channel 3, the Switch may be causing interference --> Channel 2 was a little better then Channel 3 (I'll come back to this later) -Make sure you are using the Power Adapter made for the Atari, to much/little power could cause video issues --> I'm using the original power adapter plugged into a power strip, plugging into the wall. -Install a component mod --> I have two separate tvs for different types of games. I have a flat screen for Component/HDMI and the Sanyo CRT for RF games. Call it personal preference but I want to keep the atari as a RF signal All that troubleshooting led me to believe it was either the female RF connector on the board itself or the RF modulator. Seeing as it would be easier for me in the long run, I modded the case and added a external RF jack on the outside of the case, wiring it with 18Gauge wire to the board after desoldering the old 37 year old connector. This helped A LITTLE BIT. It eliminated the diagonal rolling bars but the horizontal bars and snow were still present. After painstakingly desoldering the RF modulator shielding and the 5 pins connecting it to the board I pried the modulator off and found a spider nest inside the RF modulator shielding. After cleaning that up, resoldering everything back into place, I once again hooked up the system and nothing. It was the same terrible signal. In a last ditch effort attempt to fix it I desoldered, then resoldered the channel switch back on. This didn't fix channel 3. HOWEVER, channel 2 looks crisper then I've ever seen it. It isn't crystal clear like my Intellivision, the picture is fuzzy with a little bit of snow, and when testing with Air Sea Battle, the screen seems to warp inwards from the sides when the colors change. Is there any way I can get clearer picture from my system om Channel 3? I know how to solder and replace components, but I don't have a clue when it comes to the technical parts of electronics.
  23. Hi there I was recently trying to hook up an early 2000s epson printer to my Acorn Archimedes which got me thinking about whether its possible to connect them to an Atari? Can you get the centronics adapter for an atari? I seem to remember seeing a Commodore one on eBay. Plus the drivers. I presume if you have the driver for an old epson printer it would connect, just with limited functionality? Forgive me if these seem like silly questions, I'm 16 and sadly don't have the benefit of experience. Thanks for your time!
  24. Well, since I have now locked myself into working on a pile of Apple IIes and parts, I should ask for some advice here. First, what should I look out for with the computers themselves? Common issues, possible fixes, etc. Next, how do I properly take apart the Unidisk drives and the monitors (both color and black and white)? I have pulled the older Apple Disk IIs apart with no issue, but the Unidisks baffle me. I tried to pull on apart a while back to work on it and I can't get the drive out of the shielding. Can get the cover off, but it will only pull a little ways out of the shield like there is still something holding it. Same with the Apple II color monitors. I was trying to pull one apart and had all visible exterior screws out, yet it would just wiggle in the case and that was it. Any help would be appreciated!
  25. I finally got one of those co-axials in the mail today. I've had a 2600 for a while, but I'd never had the chance to play it until now. I have one of those six-swtitch Ataris, and I plugged its' video/audio plug into the co-axial, which I then plugged into the back of my TV, but I'm not getting anything. Only static... I've noticed that whenever the channel is set to three there's a birght flash when I turn the power on, so I assume that's the channel I'll want it on to play, but there's only static on-screed. I'll supply any other info needed if that's not enough. Does anyone know what else I'll need to do to get this working? P.S., I'm sorry, but you guys probably gets topics like this a lot... EDIT: Also, my TV does have a plug-in for the Atari's AV plug, but it didn't work when I tried plugging it in, hence the use of a co-axial afterwards.
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