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Found 115 results

  1. Hello everyone, Please use this thread for any discussion related to RespeQt. This includes but is not limited to questions, bug reports, feature requests, or asking for help. Everyone, feel free to help with any of the above. Thanks, Joe
  2. So, just a couple weeks ago I bought my first *real* Atari 2600 after spending years playing just Flashback models. It's a handsome black and grey American Atari Jr. model; 4 switches, small, can't fit Parker Bros. cartridges, cost $150 at my local Hock Shop. Came with a copy of Missile Command. The other day while playing Space Invaders, I spilt Chocolate Milk on the console, though it was off at the time. I let it dry and it seems to be working fine, except for one tiny detail --- the color is black and white! And it won't work no matter what I do; not changing the TV channel, not turning that little grey color switch left and right, not squeezing thr film capicators, nothing! Can someone help me?
  3. Does anyone know the volts, milliamps and the polarity of the original Gemini power supply? Also is it DC or AC?
  4. This is a bit of a followup to a post I already made about a power supply I was working on. Anyway I was able to get the adam to run by just running my own wires to the db9 connector instead of using a serial cable. I now have the problem that the thing only runs if I hold down one of the reset switches and even then the picture is noisy, and the channel 3/4 switch seems to do nothing. If anyone knows what's going on here let me know please. I want my desk space back
  5. So I got a light sixer atari 2600 for christmas, its already been modded by the seller so theres no channel switch and it just plugs straight in to the tv via the coaxial port. Granted with a little tuning I have it working just fine on my tv (except for the screen rolling. I have tried a signal booster (the kind you buy from the shop Ive not risked cracking open the console yet as I'm still learning the ins and outs of it) as i read that could be the issue but no change. The power lead is just a standard 9v AC plug and my tv is a Panasonic Viera TX-L32G20B 32" 720p HD LCD TV. I was told it should be able to run on HDTVs just fine which to be fair it does except for the screen rolling. Any advice as to fixing this would be great. Thanks.
  6. Some users (such as @KPeter) have reported that they have characters they can't print in their passphrases. Until the next build comes out (which increases the available characters to include the |), you can modify the passphrase by putting your SD card into a PC and opening up the fnconfig.ini file, and looking for the section: ...other stuff... [WiFi] SSID=Cherryhomes passphrase=REDACTED ...other stuff... Hope this helps. -Thom
  7. I have a cartridge of Space War that has a different pin cover from all the other games I have. It has just one long slot instead of three smaller ones, and you can push it in just by pressing it down, which you can't do with the normal covers. I thought it might be one of the 7800-era rereleases by Atari Corp, but it says 1978 Atari Inc, not 1986 Atari Corp, so it seems to not be. I put some pictures of the game, and a picture of what the normal pin cover looks like for reference. Does anyone know anything about this?
  8. Hello all, long time reader, first time poster on the forums. I recently picked up a junk Coleco Telstar Combat system made in ‘77 for a couple dollars. It was pretty roached, but it’s a rather obscure system so I couldn’t pass it up. However, after getting it all cleaned up, I plugged it to my TV to test it out, but all I got was static and no signal. I tried many times turning the system off and on but mostly no signal would appear at all. Sometime a staticky signal would fade in and out, but it was very inconsistent. Once, I even got a vague image of the actually game screen to appear for a few seconds. I’m fairly confident that the video cable coming from the system itself is not the issue and I have it hooked up to a known working RF switch that works well with my Atari 2600. So, I opened the system back up, removed the RF shield, and began to adjust the RF inductors (I’m using a modern tv). ( I attached pics for reference) There appears to be 2 RF inductor adjustments under the shield, and a screw adjustment at the top right corner of the board. I started adjusting the orange (bottom) inductor but that only caused the video to go from no signal, to staticky image, back to no signal. So I tried to adjust the white (top) RF inductor, but it wouldn’t budge. Upon further inspection, I saw the slot inside this inductor had several cracks. I desoldered the inductor from the board to examine it further, but couldn’t get it to budge. After resoldering it back on, I still have the same issue, however, the static signal seems to become more and more scarce, leaving me with no signal as I fiddle more and more with the inductors. I also tried adjusting the screw adjuster to no avail, but I’m not really sure which RF adjusters I should/need to adjust. Would the cracking in the inductor be enough to inhibit the video signal completely? Is there anything else that could be causing this issue besides the inductors? I have a rather limited knowledge on electronics as I have only been attempting retro repairs for about a year and a half, so any new nuggets of knowledge are greatly appreciated! This is a really neat and rare system that I would like to have working in my collection. Feel free to ask questions if something isn’t clear. Thanks in advance! (Note: I have the same problem regardless if I’m using batteries or the power supply).
  9. I am using this bit of code to decide if the velocity is going to be positive or negative when a new game is started. GetRandomByte lda Random asl eor Random asl eor Random asl asl eor Random asl rol Random ; performs a series of shifts and bit operations rts jsr GetRandomByte ; generate a random number lda #%10000000 ; 1 in most significant bit mean greater then 127 bit Random ; was it less then 127? bne RandomVX ; if it was then branch lda #$ff ; set the starting duck's x velocity to -1 jmp RandomVXDone ; and jump cause we're done RandomVX lda #$01 ; set the starting duck's x velocity to 1 RandomVXDone sta DuckVX ; store duck's initial x velocity jsr GetRandomByte ; generate a random number lda #%10000000 ; 1 in most significant bit mean greater then 127 bit Random ; was it less then 127? bne RandomVY ; if it was then branch lda #$ff ; set the starting duck's x velocity to -1 jmp RandomVYDone ; and jump cause we're done RandomVY lda #$01 ; set the starting duck's x velocity to 1 RandomVYDone sta DuckVY ; store duck's initial y velocity However no matter what the velocity always stays the same. Bin: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ikjnebg1moyn0k4/duckgame.bin?dl=1
  10. Austin

    Sony Vegas Tutorial

    Today I spent some time doing a tutorial on how to use Sony Vegas. Personally, I am using Vegas Pro 10, but what I demonstrate here should be able to be duplicated in the consumer-grade Vegas Movie Studio series as well. It's nothing terribly in-depth, and it is a bit long-winded, but if you want to know how to run some animations and add a few effects, then look no further than this video! ( )
  11. Hey guys. I was told you guys are the best place to get help, so Im here asking for it. I have a 5200 with UAV and S video installed. It did not come with a power supply. I went to my local retro gaming store for one. I plugged it in and the red light on the console lit up dimly a few times than went off. I brought the whole system and power supply back to the store. They tried another one. No dice. Longer story short, they sold me an AC Atari computer power supply, not one for the 5200. I have no idea where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  12. Hey There, new to the forums here, I'm not sure if this is the right place to post but I need some help with my CX2600A Rev 8. I'm not sure if there is a nickname for this model.. its between the light sixer and the vader 2600s. I noticed last week that my 2600 video signal was almost unplayable because of how much snow there was in the screen. I have a little 1999 Sanyo CRT tv that I use for all my RF signal consoles (intellivision/ Commodore/2600) via a Female Rf to Coaxial adapter. It was a trifecta of video problems, general uniform fuzzy/snowy screen, over top that were horizontal rolling bars going bottom to top and over top that were diagonal bars going lower right corner to upper left. It had never been that fuzzy before, I noticed when I moved the RF cable going into the console the fuzziness would change. After taking apart the console and unplugging the video cable, I tried using a modern video cable (the same one I use on my Intellivision with crystal clarity) but the video problems persisted. After looking on these forums for hours I found possible solutions to the issue, but none of them worked - The green "chicklet" capacitor above the power modulator needs to be replaced ---> The CX2600A doesnt have a green chicklet capacitor above the power modulator -Stop using the ancient Rf Box that came with the console and use a Rf-Coaxial adapter ---> I already am -Stop the TV from auto-scanning to lock onto the 2600's signal better to reduce the snow ---> I tried this, the signal was the same -Try jiggling the cart, the game/ game port may need cleaning ---> Nothing happened -Try switching between Channel 2 and Channel 3, the Switch may be causing interference --> Channel 2 was a little better then Channel 3 (I'll come back to this later) -Make sure you are using the Power Adapter made for the Atari, to much/little power could cause video issues --> I'm using the original power adapter plugged into a power strip, plugging into the wall. -Install a component mod --> I have two separate tvs for different types of games. I have a flat screen for Component/HDMI and the Sanyo CRT for RF games. Call it personal preference but I want to keep the atari as a RF signal All that troubleshooting led me to believe it was either the female RF connector on the board itself or the RF modulator. Seeing as it would be easier for me in the long run, I modded the case and added a external RF jack on the outside of the case, wiring it with 18Gauge wire to the board after desoldering the old 37 year old connector. This helped A LITTLE BIT. It eliminated the diagonal rolling bars but the horizontal bars and snow were still present. After painstakingly desoldering the RF modulator shielding and the 5 pins connecting it to the board I pried the modulator off and found a spider nest inside the RF modulator shielding. After cleaning that up, resoldering everything back into place, I once again hooked up the system and nothing. It was the same terrible signal. In a last ditch effort attempt to fix it I desoldered, then resoldered the channel switch back on. This didn't fix channel 3. HOWEVER, channel 2 looks crisper then I've ever seen it. It isn't crystal clear like my Intellivision, the picture is fuzzy with a little bit of snow, and when testing with Air Sea Battle, the screen seems to warp inwards from the sides when the colors change. Is there any way I can get clearer picture from my system om Channel 3? I know how to solder and replace components, but I don't have a clue when it comes to the technical parts of electronics.
  13. First of all, Hello everyone, i'm new in this forum. Recently I've bought a Mc will mod for Game Gear and I have a problem: When I press 1 and 2 buttons at the same time, the screen change its scale. Normally this only happens when you press 1, 2 and start button too at the same time. Does anyone know if it's possible to fix it?, becouse is a bit annoying because some games needs to press 1 and 2 bottons at the same time. Thank you in advance.
  14. I just picked up a 1010 today and after setting it up it didn't play atari tapes. I thought the belt was broken until i played a music cassette with POKE 54018,52. So than I started fiddling with it and I noticed whenever you press the advance button it gets stuck and the 1010 produces a stuck hum like sound. Any suggestions? -EDIT- fixed. Was bad gear.
  15. So I just downloaded the Atari 800 emulator Rainbow 2.2 and I need some help. I downloaded a Donkey Kong rom to play on the emulator, but I can only use the ctrl button to make Mario jump. What keys do I use for walking? And are keys customizable?
  16. Hey guys! Just cleaned up an old 2600 Vader I got all boxed up for cheap! Works well, with one exception. I'm using an RF to Coax connector straight into my TV(s, i tried it on both a flat and CRT) and I get some decent static. Some games have a fair amount, some are a little crazy. Here's Donkey Kong and Yars Revenge for comparison and diagnosis. http://imgur.com/a/c5tBe Moving the RCA cable around DOES change the amount of static, and at one point I saw it completely gone! Please tell me this isn't a board issue, if it's the RCA cable I should be able to replace that... I'm a young dude with little experience with soldering and that jazz. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
  17. Hi, I recently got a good deal on an original GEC model Vectrex system. It's in amazing condition, and works great. But there is one issue. When I play the built in Game Mine Storm (I do not have any other games yet) moving the stick LEFT will make me spin RIGHT endlessly until I move the stick RIGHT to stop it, rather then turn me LEFT. Moving the stick right works perfect, and the buttons are fine, but what can I do about the controller? Is the problem even with my controler or the system? What is wrong? What can I do? Oh a and it would probably help to add that I hear a little rattel inside the controller when I pick it up. PLEASE HELP ME OUT!
  18. After having Highlander for going on twenty years I finally decided to give it a real go. I have probably only played it for about 30 minutes combined before and never even made it out of the village. After spending some time with it and beating it, I think this is a pretty good game and I would like to see whatever was done with the sequels some day. I do have some questions that I thought some of you might be able to answer: I picked up the Wooden Plank outside the front gate of the village, but I never found a use for it. Does anybody know what it does? If you put in the code to get all the items then you get a Heavy Key. Does anybody know if you can get this in the game normally and if so where it is and what it is used for? This might be the key to open the gate at the end of the canyon that you get off of the gate guard, but I cannot remember what is was called. Is there any way to kill the snipers in the secret canyon path and in the energy dome? I just ran past them after my attempts to kill them with the gas gun proved ineffective. There is a gas gun and some food in the canyon behind the tank. Is there a way to get those without getting shot to hell by the tank? I figured it is a trap, but thought there might be a way to get them. Okay Highlander experts, let's see your knowledge.
  19. I have been a pixel designer for about 10 years now and will guarantee to give your 2600 game the best graphics I possibly can. Any and all graphics in game I am willing to flesh out. Any serious offers can email me at [email protected] and we can talk further in depth. Thank you.
  20. Hello! I have a probably stupid dilemma, but no matter how I look high or low, all I can find online is how to connect a 2600 to a modern tv. Well, I don't want to connect it to a modern tv. I have a 2002 pk 4184 tv-radio I want to use. Ports on it? Simple question: it has exactly one; an "Ex Ant" (presumably external antenna) port. There's also an onboard antenna of course. Is there any sort of adapter that can connect the RF cable that came with the atari to it? Or am I just going to need to get an antenna box for the atari and find it's "station"? I feel like it would be better to hardwire it if I can. Here's an image of both items:
  21. Can someone help me do a very simple hack of Space Invaders where the aliens are blue instead of green. It would also be cool if there was a title screen that said "WUW", but if this is not possible or too complicated to pull of then I understand, and it's not completely necessary for what I'm trying to pull off. Mostly I would just like for the aliens to be blue. Can someone help me out?
  22. OK, I didn't know if I should post this here or in Hardware, so I just put it here. I just got a 2600 Jr. today and it has a few issues. When you first turn it on, with any game or the Harmony cart, it takes probably 10 seconds before the picture shows up on the TV. When you put a Battlezone cart in and turn it on, it takes a few seconds, then you get the radar and some other random bits of the picture kind of jumping around the screen, then it will show up correctly, but with a very dim picture. In a couple of seconds, the picture brightens up and the colors are all good. If Demons to Diamonds is inserted, same wait time on start-up, but the color and brightness are good. Now, here's the big problem. When you hit reset to start Demons to Diamonds, it goes from color to Black and White. Unplugging the rca cable from the back of the console and then slowly putting it back, will allow you to see a split second of color before it goes B&W again. The same thing happens using the Demons and Diamonds .bin on the Harmony Encore. Also, With the Harmony, if you switch it off, while it's B&W and then switch it right back on, the Harmony menu is in B&W. Switching it off and on again, results in color. The Jr. isn't modded and an inspection of the board showed no bad solder joints or leaky caps. The Serial is A1781245617 The board is CO21503 Revision C On most games, it looks great, the colors and the picture are better than my AV modded Vader and 7800, other than the lack of a picture for a few seconds when you turn it on. Demons to Diamonds is the only game I've found so far that triggers the B&W issue, but I feel like that's a sign of something needing repair. So, does anyone have an answer as to what's wrong with it?
  23. Hello guys n' gals.... I have a DMG Gameboy with a screwed up LCD. The right part is darker than the left and it has a horizontal line.... (I think I bent the H/V ribbon cables too much...) Could it be replaced??? The LCD is custom, but I have been able to find simmiliar screen sizes and resolutions on the 'Bay... I'd try to get a Gameboy Pocket LCD if I could find them. Probably a Color/Advance LCD wont fit? Any options? Thanks....... Al.
  24. Hey all, I recently purchased a Philips VG8020/00 MSX Home Computer. I'm having some trouble getting a decent video signal out of the thing. When I hook it up to my VCR/DVD Combo via the RF out and convert the signal into composite, I get a glitchy screen, jumping from left to right, going from color to black and white. However, the MSX boot up text is present, and when I press keys on the keyboard, they do get added to the screen. I used the automatic tuning options on my VCR/DVD combo, but it sadly does not improve the quality. I also tried connecting a Sega Mega Drive RGB connector to the Monitor out on the computer, but that didn't do anything apart from making some pop noises. I might have to get a different cable to test that out. I also know for sure that my set-up isn't the problem; I've connected other coaxial game-consoles the same way (Atari 2600, Videopac G7000) and they all work. The unit looks fine and all (no mayor external damage). What I did notice though, was some noises inside the machine when I held it sideways; there could be some dirt in there. Also, some buttons get stuck from time to time (especially the directional buttons). I'll open it up and give it a good clean one of these days. Has anyone here experienced similar problems and got them solved? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! I hope the damage (if it has any) is not to severe; would be awesome to get it up and running again! Thanks!
  25. Ive got the INTY basic sdk, some of helpful tools posted here, and the sdk-1600. Now what?
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