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Found 95 results

  1. Hello everyone, Please use this thread for any discussion related to RespeQt. This includes but is not limited to questions, bug reports, feature requests, or asking for help. Everyone, feel free to help with any of the above. Thanks, Joe
  2. Hi guys its been a while since i posted on the forums however, My sound (monitor output sound, don't have rf box) is not working. I did a couple measurements with the multimeter on the POKEY and it seems that it does have voltage output at pin 37 (read that on forum where someone had the same audio problem with their 130xe) Personally, I have a hunch that it's not the POKEY chip itself rather it's a capacitor or resistor in the sound circuit since I'm pretty sure POKEY handles I/O and keyboard scanning (both of which work tested the disk drive with emulation with aspeQt/SIO2PC, however cassette playback does not work.) So I guess my question is should I just skip trying to get a donor POKEY and attempt to troubleshoot the sound circuit (potentially just shotgunning the entire circuit and replacing it all until it works)? I would gladly accept any advice from anyone! Thank you! I have the schematic of all the resistor/capacitor values here http://www.jsobola.atari8.info/derelit/xefsm.pdf
  3. I got an old odyssey 4000 from an attic a month or two ago, and I've been trying to get it working. I have the service manual and I made an attempt at an av mod based off of a thread I read here. The audio works, the system starts, and it seems like the game is running, but there is no video output to the tv. There is also not the voltage the service manual says I should have at the video out pin, or anywhere I can tell it connects to. Can anyone advise on what to check?
  4. Hi again, Did a bit of restructuring and now it seems to go to the correct bank on power up. The issue I think is right after that it jumps into no man's land a.k.a RAM and never returns which results in a black screen with a brown messed up playfield and a horrible death sound. 😝 The strange part is bank 0 is so small it is latterly only a few bytes in size with only a few calls to the required syncing subroutine, and then the title screen kernel which draws the title screen using the playfield and yes all the graphics are in the same bank. Links Source Listing Binary
  5. Hello all, long time reader, first time poster on the forums. I recently picked up a junk Coleco Telstar Combat system made in ‘77 for a couple dollars. It was pretty roached, but it’s a rather obscure system so I couldn’t pass it up. However, after getting it all cleaned up, I plugged it to my TV to test it out, but all I got was static and no signal. I tried many times turning the system off and on but mostly no signal would appear at all. Sometime a staticky signal would fade in and out, but it was very inconsistent. Once, I even got a vague image of the actually game screen to appear for a few seconds. I’m fairly confident that the video cable coming from the system itself is not the issue and I have it hooked up to a known working RF switch that works well with my Atari 2600. So, I opened the system back up, removed the RF shield, and began to adjust the RF inductors (I’m using a modern tv). ( I attached pics for reference) There appears to be 2 RF inductor adjustments under the shield, and a screw adjustment at the top right corner of the board. I started adjusting the orange (bottom) inductor but that only caused the video to go from no signal, to staticky image, back to no signal. So I tried to adjust the white (top) RF inductor, but it wouldn’t budge. Upon further inspection, I saw the slot inside this inductor had several cracks. I desoldered the inductor from the board to examine it further, but couldn’t get it to budge. After resoldering it back on, I still have the same issue, however, the static signal seems to become more and more scarce, leaving me with no signal as I fiddle more and more with the inductors. I also tried adjusting the screw adjuster to no avail, but I’m not really sure which RF adjusters I should/need to adjust. Would the cracking in the inductor be enough to inhibit the video signal completely? Is there anything else that could be causing this issue besides the inductors? I have a rather limited knowledge on electronics as I have only been attempting retro repairs for about a year and a half, so any new nuggets of knowledge are greatly appreciated! This is a really neat and rare system that I would like to have working in my collection. Feel free to ask questions if something isn’t clear. Thanks in advance! (Note: I have the same problem regardless if I’m using batteries or the power supply).
  6. Hi, Quick question, right now I have a 8k game using the standard F8 bankswitching scheme. Say I wanted to upgrade it to a 16k game via F6, how would I go about doing that? Do I just add the extra needed banks or is there a more precise procedure required?
  7. I am using this bit of code to decide if the velocity is going to be positive or negative when a new game is started. GetRandomByte lda Random asl eor Random asl eor Random asl asl eor Random asl rol Random ; performs a series of shifts and bit operations rts jsr GetRandomByte ; generate a random number lda #%10000000 ; 1 in most significant bit mean greater then 127 bit Random ; was it less then 127? bne RandomVX ; if it was then branch lda #$ff ; set the starting duck's x velocity to -1 jmp RandomVXDone ; and jump cause we're done RandomVX lda #$01 ; set the starting duck's x velocity to 1 RandomVXDone sta DuckVX ; store duck's initial x velocity jsr GetRandomByte ; generate a random number lda #%10000000 ; 1 in most significant bit mean greater then 127 bit Random ; was it less then 127? bne RandomVY ; if it was then branch lda #$ff ; set the starting duck's x velocity to -1 jmp RandomVYDone ; and jump cause we're done RandomVY lda #$01 ; set the starting duck's x velocity to 1 RandomVYDone sta DuckVY ; store duck's initial y velocity However no matter what the velocity always stays the same. Bin: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ikjnebg1moyn0k4/duckgame.bin?dl=1
  8. I'm not sure if anyone can help me with this, but ! Here goes ! I recently found a good emulator for the NEC PC6001. I need it to complete a video for my youtube channel but I'm having difficulties getting it to run a .cas image for pac-man that I found on Archives.org. I have't been able to find an alternate image of this game anywhere online. I do know it exists because of this. http://p6ers.net/hashi/emupacman.html I've tried to make it work in Mess & with PC6001VW Emulator to no avail. Anyone know where I can get an alternate rom image to work with this emulator. Because so far I'm turning up nothing in my searches. Attached are the clips I currently have.
  9. I am having a small issue with my code. I am trying to get the duck to stop when it reaches the top after hitting the flyaway state. However no matter what I try the code gets ignored. Source Code Relevant section Any of you experts have any ideas on what's going on?
  10. Recently my trusty switch switch quit working. It had occurred after moving the difficulty switch from A to B (in space invaders) and an odd screen appeared. Afterwards I turned off the Atari, re-turned on and all that appears is a black screen with two slightly colored thin bars on both sides. I checked the power supply with another Atari and it seems to be working, the cartridge is not an issue of course, and after looking around online I would assume that it is the power/voltage regulator? Any advice would be appreciated- it truly saddens me when such events occur, a light six switch simply isn't a heavy one
  11. Hi Atariage I found this mod on atarimuseum: http://atarimuseum.com/fb2hacks/ You have probably all heard about it before, but it allows an atari flashback 2 to play 2600 cartridges. My first question is: Is it possible to perform this mod on the flashback 4? I prefer the 4, since it has rca output, more built in games and wireless controller options. However, since i am not a modder, i would like to know if someone in here would be willing to mod the console for me, and what would you charge for it? - Buying a new console on ebay(i have already found a few). - Mod the console. - and send it to me(i live in Denmark). I will of course pay for console, shipping, materials and work hours(through paypal). P.S. Sorry for my potentially horrendous english, but as i stated before i am danish - so english is not my vernacular.
  12. I finally got one of those co-axials in the mail today. I've had a 2600 for a while, but I'd never had the chance to play it until now. I have one of those six-swtitch Ataris, and I plugged its' video/audio plug into the co-axial, which I then plugged into the back of my TV, but I'm not getting anything. Only static... I've noticed that whenever the channel is set to three there's a birght flash when I turn the power on, so I assume that's the channel I'll want it on to play, but there's only static on-screed. I'll supply any other info needed if that's not enough. Does anyone know what else I'll need to do to get this working? P.S., I'm sorry, but you guys probably gets topics like this a lot... EDIT: Also, my TV does have a plug-in for the Atari's AV plug, but it didn't work when I tried plugging it in, hence the use of a co-axial afterwards.
  13. set kernel_options playercolors player1colors dim zombiewalk=a dim zombiewalk2=b dim zombiewalkdelay=c dim zombiewalk2delay=d dim zombiespeed=e dim ballwasshot=f CTRLPF=$21 playfield: ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX end player0: %1101100 %0100100 %0100100 %0100100 %0100100 %0010100 %0001000 %0001011 %1111111 %1111111 %0101010 %0011100 %0001000 %0011100 %0100010 %1000001 %1000001 %1000001 %0100010 %0011100 end player1color: $F0 $F0 $F0 $F0 $F0 $F0 $F4 $F4 $F4 $F4 $F4 $F4 $F4 $F4 $C4 $C4 $C4 $C4 $C4 $C4 end player1: %00011001 %00010010 %00010010 %00010010 %00011110 %00010000 %00011110 %10011100 %10011000 %10111101 %10111101 %10111001 %01111110 %00011100 %00011110 %00110001 %00111111 %00110101 %00111111 %00011110 end COLUBK=6 COLUPF=244 player0x=138 player0y=79 player1x=17 player1y=79 zombiespeed=20 ballheight=1 ballx=139 bally=71 ballwasshot=0 loop drawscreen player1: %00011001 %00010010 %00010010 %00010010 %00011110 %00010000 %00011110 %10011100 %10011000 %10111101 %10111101 %10111001 %01111110 %00011100 %00011110 %00110001 %00111111 %00110101 %00111111 %00011110 end if zombiewalk=1 then player1: %01100110 %01000100 %00100100 %00100100 %00011000 %00010000 %00011110 %10011100 %10111000 %10111010 %10111010 %10111010 %01111110 %00011100 %00011110 %00110001 %00111111 %00110101 %00111111 %00011110 end if switchreset then reboot if joy0left then player0x=player0x-1 if joy0right then player0x=player0x+1 if !joy0fire && !ballwasshot then ballx=player0x+1 if joy0fire then ballwasshot=1 if ballwasshot then ballx=ballx-2 if player0x>138 then player0x=138 if player0x<16 then player0x=16 if player1x>138 then player1x=138 if collision(ball,player1) then player1x=16:ballx=player0x+1:ballwasshot=0:score=score+1 zombiewalkdelay=zombiewalkdelay+1 if zombiewalkdelay=zombiespeed then zombiewalk=zombiewalk+1:zombiewalkdelay=0:player1x=player1x+1 if zombiewalk=2 then zombiewalk=0 goto loop The code was compiling and executing fine a while ago, but now, wherever I place my cursor, there is a syntax error there. Any tips?
  14. i got an atari 2600 recently at a thrift-store, then got a replacement cord. i cleaned the contacts repeatedly, and all i get is a black-screen when a game is inserted. sometimes a flash of the title screen, and without a game i get random stripes, sometimes buzzes, and sometimes black-screen. what do i do? its the wood-front model
  15. Hello, I recently purchased an atari 2600 junior and i have one of these: And was wondering if i could use this for hooking my atari up. Thanks, Archedhydra
  16. Austin

    Sony Vegas Tutorial

    Today I spent some time doing a tutorial on how to use Sony Vegas. Personally, I am using Vegas Pro 10, but what I demonstrate here should be able to be duplicated in the consumer-grade Vegas Movie Studio series as well. It's nothing terribly in-depth, and it is a bit long-winded, but if you want to know how to run some animations and add a few effects, then look no further than this video! ( )
  17. Hey There, new to the forums here, I'm not sure if this is the right place to post but I need some help with my CX2600A Rev 8. I'm not sure if there is a nickname for this model.. its between the light sixer and the vader 2600s. I noticed last week that my 2600 video signal was almost unplayable because of how much snow there was in the screen. I have a little 1999 Sanyo CRT tv that I use for all my RF signal consoles (intellivision/ Commodore/2600) via a Female Rf to Coaxial adapter. It was a trifecta of video problems, general uniform fuzzy/snowy screen, over top that were horizontal rolling bars going bottom to top and over top that were diagonal bars going lower right corner to upper left. It had never been that fuzzy before, I noticed when I moved the RF cable going into the console the fuzziness would change. After taking apart the console and unplugging the video cable, I tried using a modern video cable (the same one I use on my Intellivision with crystal clarity) but the video problems persisted. After looking on these forums for hours I found possible solutions to the issue, but none of them worked - The green "chicklet" capacitor above the power modulator needs to be replaced ---> The CX2600A doesnt have a green chicklet capacitor above the power modulator -Stop using the ancient Rf Box that came with the console and use a Rf-Coaxial adapter ---> I already am -Stop the TV from auto-scanning to lock onto the 2600's signal better to reduce the snow ---> I tried this, the signal was the same -Try jiggling the cart, the game/ game port may need cleaning ---> Nothing happened -Try switching between Channel 2 and Channel 3, the Switch may be causing interference --> Channel 2 was a little better then Channel 3 (I'll come back to this later) -Make sure you are using the Power Adapter made for the Atari, to much/little power could cause video issues --> I'm using the original power adapter plugged into a power strip, plugging into the wall. -Install a component mod --> I have two separate tvs for different types of games. I have a flat screen for Component/HDMI and the Sanyo CRT for RF games. Call it personal preference but I want to keep the atari as a RF signal All that troubleshooting led me to believe it was either the female RF connector on the board itself or the RF modulator. Seeing as it would be easier for me in the long run, I modded the case and added a external RF jack on the outside of the case, wiring it with 18Gauge wire to the board after desoldering the old 37 year old connector. This helped A LITTLE BIT. It eliminated the diagonal rolling bars but the horizontal bars and snow were still present. After painstakingly desoldering the RF modulator shielding and the 5 pins connecting it to the board I pried the modulator off and found a spider nest inside the RF modulator shielding. After cleaning that up, resoldering everything back into place, I once again hooked up the system and nothing. It was the same terrible signal. In a last ditch effort attempt to fix it I desoldered, then resoldered the channel switch back on. This didn't fix channel 3. HOWEVER, channel 2 looks crisper then I've ever seen it. It isn't crystal clear like my Intellivision, the picture is fuzzy with a little bit of snow, and when testing with Air Sea Battle, the screen seems to warp inwards from the sides when the colors change. Is there any way I can get clearer picture from my system om Channel 3? I know how to solder and replace components, but I don't have a clue when it comes to the technical parts of electronics.
  18. OK, I didn't know if I should post this here or in Hardware, so I just put it here. I just got a 2600 Jr. today and it has a few issues. When you first turn it on, with any game or the Harmony cart, it takes probably 10 seconds before the picture shows up on the TV. When you put a Battlezone cart in and turn it on, it takes a few seconds, then you get the radar and some other random bits of the picture kind of jumping around the screen, then it will show up correctly, but with a very dim picture. In a couple of seconds, the picture brightens up and the colors are all good. If Demons to Diamonds is inserted, same wait time on start-up, but the color and brightness are good. Now, here's the big problem. When you hit reset to start Demons to Diamonds, it goes from color to Black and White. Unplugging the rca cable from the back of the console and then slowly putting it back, will allow you to see a split second of color before it goes B&W again. The same thing happens using the Demons and Diamonds .bin on the Harmony Encore. Also, With the Harmony, if you switch it off, while it's B&W and then switch it right back on, the Harmony menu is in B&W. Switching it off and on again, results in color. The Jr. isn't modded and an inspection of the board showed no bad solder joints or leaky caps. The Serial is A1781245617 The board is CO21503 Revision C On most games, it looks great, the colors and the picture are better than my AV modded Vader and 7800, other than the lack of a picture for a few seconds when you turn it on. Demons to Diamonds is the only game I've found so far that triggers the B&W issue, but I feel like that's a sign of something needing repair. So, does anyone have an answer as to what's wrong with it?
  19. I have a strange problem with my Atari 400. I have a new keyboard from BE, and the old semi faulty keyboard. When in MEMO PAD, the new keyboard is fine and registers all key presses, the old keyboard only registers a few keys. With BASIC cart inserted, neither keyboard is registered. I have tried the BASIC cart in my 800 and it works fine. I have also swapped the OS and the RAM from the 800 and get the same results. Please help me to save this 400, any ideas what else I should check? I only have basic tools and a digital multi meter. I have a very dead (red screen) 400 and a working 800 that I could swap parts from. Cheers
  20. Can someone help me do a very simple hack of Space Invaders where the aliens are blue instead of green. It would also be cool if there was a title screen that said "WUW", but if this is not possible or too complicated to pull of then I understand, and it's not completely necessary for what I'm trying to pull off. Mostly I would just like for the aliens to be blue. Can someone help me out?
  21. Hello guys n' gals.... I have a DMG Gameboy with a screwed up LCD. The right part is darker than the left and it has a horizontal line.... (I think I bent the H/V ribbon cables too much...) Could it be replaced??? The LCD is custom, but I have been able to find simmiliar screen sizes and resolutions on the 'Bay... I'd try to get a Gameboy Pocket LCD if I could find them. Probably a Color/Advance LCD wont fit? Any options? Thanks....... Al.
  22. First of all, Hello everyone, i'm new in this forum. Recently I've bought a Mc will mod for Game Gear and I have a problem: When I press 1 and 2 buttons at the same time, the screen change its scale. Normally this only happens when you press 1, 2 and start button too at the same time. Does anyone know if it's possible to fix it?, becouse is a bit annoying because some games needs to press 1 and 2 bottons at the same time. Thank you in advance.
  23. Hey all, I recently purchased a Philips VG8020/00 MSX Home Computer. I'm having some trouble getting a decent video signal out of the thing. When I hook it up to my VCR/DVD Combo via the RF out and convert the signal into composite, I get a glitchy screen, jumping from left to right, going from color to black and white. However, the MSX boot up text is present, and when I press keys on the keyboard, they do get added to the screen. I used the automatic tuning options on my VCR/DVD combo, but it sadly does not improve the quality. I also tried connecting a Sega Mega Drive RGB connector to the Monitor out on the computer, but that didn't do anything apart from making some pop noises. I might have to get a different cable to test that out. I also know for sure that my set-up isn't the problem; I've connected other coaxial game-consoles the same way (Atari 2600, Videopac G7000) and they all work. The unit looks fine and all (no mayor external damage). What I did notice though, was some noises inside the machine when I held it sideways; there could be some dirt in there. Also, some buttons get stuck from time to time (especially the directional buttons). I'll open it up and give it a good clean one of these days. Has anyone here experienced similar problems and got them solved? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! I hope the damage (if it has any) is not to severe; would be awesome to get it up and running again! Thanks!
  24. Hi there I was recently trying to hook up an early 2000s epson printer to my Acorn Archimedes which got me thinking about whether its possible to connect them to an Atari? Can you get the centronics adapter for an atari? I seem to remember seeing a Commodore one on eBay. Plus the drivers. I presume if you have the driver for an old epson printer it would connect, just with limited functionality? Forgive me if these seem like silly questions, I'm 16 and sadly don't have the benefit of experience. Thanks for your time!
  25. Ive got the INTY basic sdk, some of helpful tools posted here, and the sdk-1600. Now what?
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