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Blogs

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  • I created this second blog on accident and now I can't figure out how to delete it.
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  • Old School Gamer Review
  • The Mario Blog
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  • Horst's Blog
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  • Blogpocalypse
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  • creeping insanity
  • Sonic R's Blog
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  • Syntax Terror Games
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  • A Wandering Shadow's Travels
  • Arjak's Blog
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  • Kiwi's Blog
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  • Zero One
  • Troglodyte's Blog
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  • Robert Hurst
  • This Is Reality Control
  • Animan's Blog Of Unusual Objectionalities
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  • The 7800 blog
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  • That's what she said.
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  • The (hopefully) weekly rant
  • Goochman's Marketplace Blog
  • Marc Oberhäuser's Blog
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  • A Ramblin' Man
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  • GEOMETRY WARS ATARI 2600
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  • Bri's House
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  • raskar42
  • The P3 Studio
  • Bydo's Blog
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  • Chuplayer's Blog
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  • POKEY experiments
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  • Brain droppings...
  • Sandra's blog
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  • Maybe its a Terrible Tragedy
  • Guru Meditation
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  • The 12 Turn Program: Board Game Addiction and You
  • Tezz's projects blog
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  • Whoopdeedoo
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  • an atari story
  • JDRose
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  • Partyhaus
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  • ¡Viva Atari!
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  • The hunt for the PAL Heavy Sixer
  • Liduario's Blog
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  • HSC Experience
  • people to fix atari Blog
  • Gronka's Blog
  • Joey Z's Atari Projects
  • cncfreak's Blog
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  • Lynx Links
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  • My Ideas/Rants
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  • jamvans game hunting blog
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  • wibblebibble's Basic Blog
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  • The Golden Age Arcade Historian
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  • Cool 'n' Crispy: The Blog of Iceberg_Lettuce
  • ahuffman's Blog
  • Bergum's Thoughts Blog
  • marminer's Blog
  • BubsyFan101 n CO's Pile Of Game Picks
  • I like to rant.
  • Cleaning up my 2600
  • AnimaInCorpore's Blog
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  • Coleco Pacman Simulator (CPMS)
  • ianoid's Blog
  • HLO projects
  • Retro Junky Garage
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  • VVHQ
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  • Synthpop Universe
  • Atari 5200 Joystick Controllers
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  • matosimi's Blog
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  • MegaData Manifesto
  • Selling Atari on Ebay.
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  • eshu's blog
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  • Bio's Blog of Randomness
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  • Paul Lay's Blog
  • Make Atari 2600 games w/o programming!
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  • The Game Pit
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  • Atari 2600 game maps
  • Crazy Climber Metal
  • Keith Makes Games
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  • TheHoboInYourRoom's Blog
  • Msp Cheats Tips And Techniques To Create You A Better Gamer
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  • bow830
  • Gernots A500 game reviews
  • Byte's Blog
  • The Atari Strikes Back
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  • My blog of stuff and things
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Found 7 results

  1. Last year, I did an internal installation of an Atarivox+ in my 7800. The goals were to have the Atarivox' audio mixed with the console's audio, and to also have a way to turn off the Atarivox if it was interfering with controllers. Both of these were to be accomplished without cutting or drilling the console's case. In the end, it worked out really well, and it's now weird to me whenever I see a 7800 come up from cold and don't hear the, "Atarivox Plus - Ready," greeting at power-on. Where this was especially evident, however, was on my 2600 Jr. The lack of speech and savekey support in certain titles was becoming more and more noticeable by its absence compared to the 7800, so wanting to install an Atarivox in it started to sound increasingly appealing. The only real question was, "will it fit?" There's a lot less room inside of a 2600 Jr. than a 7800 - a lot less. So an Atarivox+ was ordered and the measuring got underway. There were two main goals being shot for: one, find out if it was even possible to physically fit the Atarivox+ in a 2600 Jr. case; two, replicate all of the functionality of the 7800 installation in the Jr. The modifications that this Jr. already had were a UAV, Traco 2-2450 DC-DC converter, and the ribbon cable for the Reset and Select buttons had been replaced with wires and DuPont connectors. Significant modification to the Atarivox+ PCB was also required, and I'd recommend reading through all of this before committing to a course of action. There's plenty of room to screw things up (ask me how I know) even if there's not a lot of elbow room for the installation itself. Please note that the photos in this post are showing what is essentially a Version 1.0 installation - there was a lot that had to be figured out as I went, and there is room for improvement in certain areas. Having said that, suggestions for improvements are certainly welcome Moving on, there are three main components that will be needed: One AtariVox+ Speech Synthesizer One Adafruit 4-channel I2C-safe Bi-directional Logic Level Converter - BSS138 One Miniature Capacitive Touch Switch (these are apparently only sold in pairs; I've yet to see single ones for sale) And, in addition to those, the usual gamut of wires (with DuPont connectors), straight and right-angled 2.54mm pin headers, a pair of 10kΩ resistors, solder, a soldering iron, electrical tape, double-sided tape, etc. Starting off with the capacitive power switch: this was adhered to the underside of the upper case with a single layer of Gorilla Tough and Clear mounting tape; placement was between the Reset button and outer wall of the case. It receives +5VDC (red wire) and GND (black wire) from the mainboard and switches +5VDC over the orange wire. Tapping on the case to the right of the Reset button turns the Atarivox off. While it can be turned back on using this method, it's better to power-cycle the machine so that everything comes up in a known state. +5VDC power was taken from TP1, located just below and to the right of the RF output jack; a right-angled pin header was soldered into it. GND was provided from a pair of pads located on the mainboard next to the RF modulator shield. Note that the shield does not have to come off to access them - they're between the shield and edge of the board. Four are located in a small, square cluster, and two right-angled pin headers were installed; the second pin header will be needed later on. One word about the switch: there are jumpers on it that can be changed in order to alter its behaviour. It is strongly recommended against doing this. As it comes out of the box, the jumpers are already set correctly, and changing them may potentially damage the switch, 2600 Jr., or other components. Additionally, the layer of double-sided tape used to hold it in place does not interfere with the ability of the switch to sense a tap - if anything, it cuts the natural sensitivity of the switch down slightly to a more usable level. Moving on to the BSS138 board (Adafruit Level Shifter): This board is used to both power the Atarivox on and off as well as enable or disable the signal lines running from the console's right joystick port to the Atarivox. Vertical pin headers were installed in both rows, with a cut-down pin header bridging the contacts on the underside of the board for the pads marked 'HV' and 'LV'. The same wiring colour scheme was used here for both sides of the board: white, grey, green, and yellow were soldered to pins 1 through 4, respectively, of the right joystick port and connected to the corresponding pins on the HV side of the board; GND was taken from one of the previously-mentioned pads next to the RF modulator while switched +5VDC (orange wire) was connected to the pin marked 'HV' on the PCB. On the LV side of the PCB, the corresponding wires were soldered directly to the same-numbered pins on the Atarivox where the controller jack had been removed. Switched power (the pin marked 'LV') was soldered to pin 8 on the Atarivox; GND was attached to pin 7. Again, a single layer of Gorilla Tough and Clear mounting tape was used to adhere the Adafruit Level Shifter to the Junior's PCB. And now for the modifications to the Atarivox+ board: In order to make the Atarivox fit in the space above the RF modulator, a number of modifications were performed to it: The controller jack was removed On either side of the controller jack, the remaining anchor points for the jack were cut away with a Dremel along the white lines outlining the footprints of the anchor points The headphone jack was removed; with this and the controller jack gone, about 15mm of overall length was shaved off. Be careful when removing this one - if it's surface-mounted it'll want to take traces with it Note the white wire coming off of the board from the right side of C1. This is the audio output, and is attached to the most easily-worked location to pick final audio off from Wires with female DuPont connectors on the far end were soldered directly to the PCB in the location where the controller jack had previously been located; this was to keep the height of the installation at a manageable level The controller jack wires were separated into two bundles: one for pins 1-4 (Atarivox data; white, grey, green, and yellow, respectively) and one for pins 7 & 8 (ground (black) and switched power (orange), respectively). Two layers of Gorilla Tough and Clear mounting tape were used to hold it in place, one on the empty space on the 2600 Jr.'s PCB and one completely covering the back of the Atarivox' PCB. This provided both insulation from live components as well as enough clearance to fit the Atarivox just barely over and above them without running into clearance issues with the underside of the top shell. If you are planning on keeping the RF shields in place, it's strongly recommended to put a layer of electrical tape over any shield surfaces that might come into contact with the additional hardware. This essentially means the face of the shield over the RF modulator facing the rear of the console, and the entire rear-facing part of the main RF shield. There's also one side of the main shield that meets the modulator shield at a right angle; that one should be taped over as well. Finally, here's a bird's-eye view of the almost-completed installation: The white audio output wire coming off of the Atarivox from C1 can be seen looping out of the right-hand side of the frame, coming back into view just below the RF modulator. On the section just below the RF modulator, there's a length of heatshrink covering this wire. This is where a 10KΩ resistor was spliced in; another of the same value was spliced in to the audio output (another white wire) from the TIA located just above and to the right of the IC. Be sure to splice the Atarivox' output into the audio wiring after the resistor coming from the TIA's output. Note that the resistors are mandatory: without them, there will be sound from either the TIA or Atarivox (if powered on), but not both. One word about the resistors: after living with the 10KΩ ones for a few days, using ones with a lower resistance is suggested. 6.8KΩ or 4.7KΩ would probably be a better fit, and 2KΩ may also work. While both the Atarivox and Junior audio mix without issue at 10KΩ, the amount of volume that can be obtained from the Atarivox with 10KΩ resistors is about the bare minimum necessary to have a usable mix. At this point, everything's ready for refitting the RF shields (if desired), routing cables, and testing the machine. On powerup, "Atarivox Plus - Ready," should be heard from the display's speakers, and Juno First is recommended to test with since it mixes speech with TIA audio early on in the game; it also displays "Savekey Found" if it's detected at load time. Adjust the Atarivox' volume as necessary and once it's at the preferred level, carefully refit the top case, taking care to not catch any wires between the case halves or the screwposts. Other than replacing the 10KΩ resistors with ones of a lower value, one other change that may be worth making would be to replace the volume pot with one that mounts horizontally rather than vertically. This has the potential to reduce the overall height by a few millimetres, and while that might not sound like much, there are variances in PCBs, case mouldings, the adhesives used, cable routing, etc. that could turn that extra clearance into the difference between a successful fit or a frustrating, semi-finished project. This is something that I wanted to implement from the start, but available time meant that the luxury of being able to order and try out a few different trimpots just wasn't really there. In any event, if you decide to undertake this modification, all the best of luck to you, and please post any questions below
  2. Long story short....I need the internal board. No case, no controllers, no cords, JUST the board. Mine took a poop. Preferably working lol
  3. I am working on a very corroded beige unit. I soaked the parts in citric acid solution to remove the rust am am now testing each part, starting with the power supply. The 12 and minus 5 volt rails seem fine, but the plus 5 volt rail takes about 30 seconds to come up and then stabilizes at 5.207 volts. This doesn’t seem correct. Unfortunately, TI used a complicated circuit for the plus 5 volt rail instead of a 7805. Anyone here willing to help me troubleshoot?
  4. Hello, I picked up an Atari 800XL a few months back and will soon start to enjoy it. I understand that they came with BASIC revision B and later Atari models had a less buggy version called revision C. To upgrade the 800XL, are the two options (1) buy a revision C cartridge or (2) upgrade the BASIC ROM? For option 2, would I just buy something like this off of eBay? https://www.ebay.com/itm/162564860327?ul_noapp=true I do have a EPROM burner so is another option to find revision C online and burn it to EPROM? In either case, is it a matter of popping out revision B ROM and putting in revision C? (assuming the ROMs are socketed.) Thanks
  5. so i have been thinking about this and was looking as one does, and i came across this on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-DC-5V-1A-1000mA-Power-Supply-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-Module-Small-Size-/191879043673?hash=item2cace1da59:g:tpUAAOSweW5VeVqx I did try and do something similar with a hefty heatsink and a load of voltage regulators and capacitors once but I got some image distortion during my tests so abandoned that idea, what I want to know if anyone can help is would this deliver power clean enough to run a Colecovision without any image distortion it maybe worth getting one just to try at that price but wanted to see what others thought first
  6. Hey all, I decided to drag out my ol' Falcon to do a little C programming on it. In addition to the internal hard drive, it also has an external SCSI one. I booted it up the other day and the hard drives were there and accessible. After pulling out a ton of floppies to see what I had, I noticed that the falcon wasn't showing the hard drives and appears to be booting to the default desktop. I'm assuming that either I need driver disks at boot time in the floppy, the drivers on the hard drive got corrupted, or the drive itself went end up on me. I found a bunch of system disks for the Falcon but none said, "Hard Drive disk" and the Falcon manual I have doesn't really say that I need drivers. So, instead of a bunch of trial and error, I thought I seek advice. Any ideas what the issue is and how best to resolve it? I really don't care about what's on the disk since it seem that most software is available for it online.
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