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Found 12 results

  1. Hey guys n' gals, I recently found myself a copy of Chiller for NES. I tried cleaning it and testing it on different systems but it doesn't work properly. It screams at me (which is normal) but it is a white screen. I press start and I can hear sound and see the monsters but the monsters are all solid gray and the environments are missing. I opened up the cart and judging by a picture I found online, I think this board is missing a resistor. As you can see in the picture of my board, there are 3 resistors at the top left, but in this picture I found online, there should be 4 there. I am hoping this is the issue and that it can be solved. I could probably replace the resistor but I can't tell which one I need. Does anyone else have a copy that they can take a look at the board and check? Thanks.
  2. Hey everyone. Had a quick question for those of you familiar with Hardware because I really am not. i have a video issue with only certain homebrews and hacks. Original release 2600 games play fine, all 85 or so i own. It doesn't happen every time with the effected games, and when it does happen usually taking the game out and reinserting it once or up to 3 times will make the issue go away. could this be a power issue? Capacitors or something inside the system failing? Or simply just RF interference of some kind? I'm using a light sixer on a CRT through RF. I'll post a picture of one of the affected games and then a couple of pictures of regular games playing fine. thanks alot everyone.
  3. Hi. I recently bought an Atari Jaguar of eBay. It is PAL. It seems to power on and shows a green light. But when I hook it up to the TV, I see a distorted image (what you see when you don’t insert an Atari 2600 cartridge properly) I’ve been told by someone that the console is working as it should and the image I see is caused by the PAL system being used in an NTSC country. What do you think? By the way, I am using the AV signal. Is there something I need to buy to get it working? Thank you!
  4. Hi! So my atari's video output is all garbage, or sometimes none at all. I recapped the sysem and did a console5 refresh kit and no difference. Tried different rf cables and used a known working psu. Any idea guys? Maybe the Tia chip or maybe something simple? Thanks!!
  5. Please help me on this. For some reason, I am unable to make a status update or even type a reply to an existing one. Whenever I click the reply button, I get sent to my profile page after a few seconds. I can still react via the emotes button, but nothing more. What could be the culprit? Pic related, its the drop-down "create" bar with no status option.
  6. So the Switch has 32 GB of internal flash storage, 6.1-7GB of which is set aside for the OS. Also, all saves from games will be saved to the system memory. So "internal memory" could quickly become scarce. Downloading a game like Zelda will take up half the system memory, and DragonQuest, at 32GB, won't even fit. I for one am pretty concerned about this becoming a real problem. Not from a downloading games standpoint, as those can be put on micro SD cards which while smallish now should eventually grow to the Switch's 2TB maximum. But to me it seems like a few system updates, a few saved games, and a few patches later, the internal memory could quickly fill up. Then what? Saved games aren't currently designed to go on the Micro SD card? I've had systems before that ran out of system memory, many times actually (Sega CD, Saturn, 3DO, Wii, Xbox, PS3) and it is never pretty. Shuffling files around, deleting stuff and trying to upgrade Memory carts or HDD's. Is this really a non-issue? Am I making more of this than it has the potential to become? Obviously others (this is one article of many) are thinking about this: https://www.technobuffalo.com/2017/01/20/nintendo-switchs-storage-problems-and-solutions-discussed-by-nintendo/ The 32GB for the Wii U seemed small at the time, but my mind was put to ease as soon as I hooked up my 2TB Seagate drive. I haven't even come close to filling it. That said, the Switch is portable and dragging around an external powered HD makes no sense. And yet Nintendo says they may be making this an option for the Switch. So then you have the 32GB internal storage, a 128GB micro SD, and a 4TB drive hooked up. What goes where exactly and how would that work? Seems convoluted. Anyway looking forward to your thoughts, ideas, and speculation on this issue.
  7. Good afternoon gents. Yesterday I tried Defender on my Colecovision console for the first time (well okay, that's being late!) and saw that the radar is blank. I've read this old thread here and it seems this is a common and somehow expected problem: http://www.atariage....ap-doesnt-work/ Now the question is: has anyone found or selected a ROM image that doesn't show this problem? Is anyone able to and willing to fix any of the ROM images available so that ther radar will show up correctly? By the way, I was very impressed by such a HUGE issue and I wonder how it could go under silence back then in the eighties. OK for the first production batch, these things may happen, but how could it be they didn't fix it in the next batches?
  8. This has gotten really odd so I figure this is the best place to get some help. My Atari paddles were jittery at first, and I followed the instructions to clean them. After cleaning them, they were still jittery. I cleaned them again, and the issue persisted. To test if it was a broken pot, I modded a new one from Radio Shack onto one of the controllers, which also didn't change anything. I have a spare Flashback 4, so I tested the controllers on that. Both of the paddles played very smoothly, almost like new. And yet, when I plugged them into the actual system, they seemed broken. I noticed that the pins on the Flashback seemed smaller, so I tried to use the controllers with a serial port adapter with the same size pins, but it didn't work either. I get that I could just buy another pair, but the controllers aren't actually broken, so I don't think I should. Plus, I'm not sure buying another pair of paddle controllers would solve the problem. If it helps, the paddles are (2nd?) generation, the kind were the shaft of the pot is a lighter color. My 2600 is a Vader. Ideas? I'm pretty stuck at the moment
  9. I recently bought 3 Ataris (1 fat, 2 newer small ones) for $200, and there is a ton of static. Long story short, I've eliminated every possible thing I could between the solder points for the RF out on the Atari circuit board and the input on my TV, but it still yields static. I've used the RF tuner on the board, reseated everything that can be reseated, and used rubbing alcohol on most external contacts, yet I still get static. The Atari comes with the original power supply, and works flawlessly, just the static. I've tried it on 3 different TVs of 3 different types. (CRT, Projector, and LCD) with the same result on each. There doesn't appear to be any physical damage in any soldering or the board in general, other than some kind of minor liquid stains on the side. Any suggestions? Thanks, -Will
  10. Hi Guys, I have been tracking down an issue in a game I am creating where the my scanline count was going wrong and it was because somehow the decimal flag was being set so a 'sbc' was not as I expected. Currently my work around is doing a 'cld' just before this bit of code but I don't know how it gets set in the first place. I have looked for the obvious and I am not doing a 'sed' anywhere in my code. Does anyone know more about this to advise me how this flag can get set in another way that might help me find the answer? It would be good to set some kind of cognitional breakpoint in stella so I can just find the code that way but I don't know if its possible. Thanks, Mike
  11. I'm new here! Well, not entirely. I actually lurked a bit before posting, but here I am requesting help from one of the biggest pools of knowledge on Atari anything! I just got in this 7800 from an Ebay ad that I was very disappointed with in general. That's another story though. WAY too many problems with the shipment, description, condition, communication, etc. One of two Ebay problems I've had total. Good record, I'd say! The 7800 is in cosmetically good shape. It runs smoothly (full color) for 7800 games with my RCA to RF adapter, but can only display 2600 games in black and white with hints of yellow. I tried the pause button, but nothing happened. After a bit of Google sleuthing, I came up with this page: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/88442-25-atari-7800-showing-colour-2600-mode-please How he fixed it made my heart sink a bit. My soldering skills are less than favorable, plus I don't currently have the tools for this kind of fix. I've opened up a 4 Switch Atari VCS and cleaned it with great success. Brought it back from the dead, more or less. Do you guys think I can fix this myself? Or, is there anyone out there who knows how to fix it and would be willing to help? Thanks in advance! Hope to hear some good news about this 7800's backwards compatibility.
  12. I have major issue with Atari Questron game. When I reached end of the game in Atari Questron and I inserted "Disk 0" and hit "RETURN" key to start end-game sequence and suddenly, Questron game formatted the disk, effectively destroyed Questron main disk and save game! I do not see end of game at all and repeatedly ask me to insert Disk 0 and press "RETURN" key again over. Everything else except endgame worked perfectly. I have backup digital copy of Questron main game which contains my save game, "Harvey" where a character is right now before endgame. A mantor was already killed. Just enter the castle and go to throne room to start endgame sequence. I had to copy backup copy to main copy to restore my savegame. I do not know if a bug in Questron game or Atirra V2.00. In May 1985, I had real Atari 800 computer and I was able to see Questron end game successfully.
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