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Found 107 results

  1. Today I have some relatively new information on a $17 controller adapter that you can obtain on Ebay that, when combined with a PC 15 pin gameport to Atari 5200 controller adapter (like the one currently being made by bohoki) will get your Atari 2600, Sega Master System, and Sega Genesis controllers working on your 5200. What's extra awesome about this is that the Sega controllers have compatibility with the two button games, and this is what the Masterplay Clone enables. (Unfortunately, no one is currently producing the Masterplay Clone for purchasing, though.) Here is the Ebay link to the product: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Amiga-Atari-Amstrad-Commodore-DB9-9Pin-Joystick-to-15Pin-Port-support-Usb-Adpt/272348471848?hash=item3f693be228:g:Df4AAOSwUd9aaMnL I've ordered adapters from this Ebay seller, Ikonsgr74, since 2015 and can vouch for his top-notch workmanship. He will not disappoint you. I have some additional good news: The Atari 2600 Trakball works with it to play the digital games that may be worth a try on the 5200. I have tried it with Gyruss, Ballblazer, and Galaxian with nice control results- especially Gyruss. The trakball unfortunately doesn't work with the analog-only games like Missile Command, Tempest, Star Wars Arcade, and Super Breakout. For two button digital games like Defender and Dreadnaught Factor, the Sega Sportspad (which is a trackball) also works great. If you have a couple of Camerica NES products (The receiver for the "Freedom Stick" with Genesis cables and the "Freedom Connection" transmitter device) you can add those adapters and get your NES controllers working on the 5200. I have enjoyed playing with my NES Starmaster joystick and NES Max gamepad on games like Dig Dug and Defender. In fact, on Defender, the Star Master joystick helped me to get my best ever score of around 89,000. That joystick has a very satisfying 'click' for each direction it is tilted- though it's not actually a microswitch-laden joystick like the Quickshot II Plus. Hard to describe, but it's just a perfect joystick and I'm very grateful to be able to use it to play my favorite 5200 games. I've detected no lag by the way, so that's good... Also there's a way to connect the 8bitdo NES Retro Receiver to the 5200 via the two adapters (and Camerica NES products and NES Fourscore) and play your 5200 digital games wirelessly with the controllers it's compatible with: The Dual Shock 4, Dual Shock 3, Wii Remote, and Wii U Pro Controller. I've tested it and had great success just last evening. Hope you enjoy the info. Special thanks to Swami for being the 1st guinea pig to try out Ikonsgr74's newly revised controller adapter on the 5200 (via being added to the bohoki adapter). I'm definitely grateful for learning about this from you.
  2. Let me preface this by saying that this is my first time on AtariAge and frankly, I'm a kid who has no idea what he's doing- But that's why I'm here! Also apologies if this isn't the right place for this post. Let me know if I should repost in another place. It's my Dad's birthday soon and he's always dreamed of being able to play Robotron 2084 with arcade joysticks again. I'm trying to find the easiest and cheapest way to get him that experience again. I have Midway Arcade Treasures on Gamecube, but the Gamecube controller joysticks don't do the trick for him. I also am in no position to spend thousands of dollars on a cabinet or buy parts and learn to make one. I wish there were a console/emulator(?) I could buy that I could connect via HDMI into a TV, and a dual joystick setup that I could plug into it. What's the easiest way to play Robotron 2084 with classic arcade joysticks? Thank you all in advance. Apologies again for my ignorance of any of this. I've tried doing some research on my own, but it's been more complicated than I expected.
  3. After experimenting for weeks I have found a way to get lag-free control on the 5200 digital games as well as a few of the Trakball titles with the X-arcade Tankstick and my custom Tron 80's Arcade Multicontroller (which includes a spinner). This is done with daisy-chained adapters/cables and all the components are currently in production, so it's possible for anyone to get this set up. In the presentation I show a number of 5200 games being played in ways you've not seen them played before on the 5200 including Pac-Man, Beamrider, Choplifter, Dreadnaught Factor, Meteorites, Star Trek, and Zone Ranger. Hope some of you can benefit from this:
  4. There's now a way to use the X-Arcade Tankstick trackball on your 7800 to play some specific games that really can be extra fun with that kind of controller. The games I have in mind are Alien Brigade, Centipede, Crossbow, Crack'd, Commando, Dark Chambers, and Xevious. I've spent some time figuring out what adapters are necessary to accomplish this, and even included info on using other PC compatible controllers like my custom Tron 80's Arcade multicontroller with the 7800. Check it out:
  5. Other than my main Atari 7800 console, the other (retro) console that gets a workout in my household is the Intellivision. I've always found the controls frustrating, especially the disc. Since I have two systems, I can actually compare what they are supposed to be like since one seems to have the controls working properly. The unit that's a bit more beat up cosmetically is the one that seems to function better. So I'd like to get the main unit we use working in the same way. I searched for replacement controllers, considering building my own out of arcade parts, and even debated about swapping the controllers. In the end I came across RWAP's replacement membranes. Interesting enough, I found the original thread here at AA after purchasing them. I have an Intellivision I, made in Hong Kong circa 1979 so I figured perhaps over the years the component degraded and worthwhile doing the replacement. I ordered mine and about a week or so they arrived from the UK. May have arrived sooner but with Covid-19 I wasn't really going to the mailbox every day. The pair of membranes look in pristine condition and pretty much identical keypad buttons. Here we are in 2020 and one can get amazing parts for an old system. Having done replacements in various Atari controllers, the Intellivision version takes more patience and I personally found it tricky. Unscrewing the controllers shows the simple (non-)mechanical nature of this controller. The trick to get these out is to slide the side buttons up. The 5 layers should come off easily. My circuit boards said REV E 1 and 2 for each of the controllers. The Replacement Process Open the controller by removing the four screws Once open take out the disk and the spring. Keep track of the plastic thin disc that goes between the two controller layers. Slide up the two side buttons. Pull out the entire plastic circuits. Nothing should be attacked or glued to the controller. I suggest you make a note of the order. The replacement pieces come gently pre-folded. On the two shorter keypad pieces do a proper fold on the two sides. The better you fold it, the nicer it will sit snugly on the controller. On my controller, the attached foam pad ended up being too thick. I used the replacement pad provided. Peel the thicker pad gently. Fold the longer membrane with the clear piece sitting in between. DO NOT fold it too much or you may break the circuit lines, fold in the clear sections to keep its shape. No that the disc contacts are set lower than the keyboard, so you will need to. There should be two plastic pins above and below the keyboard that allow you to guide the mylar replacements and provide alignment. The tricky part will be to replace it. Align the longer parts focusing on the keypad section. Place the two smaller keypad pieces above it. Push the two side button sections in and put the buttons back in. You may need to push the sides in a bit more although I found the action of putting the buttons back helped. Make sure the disc section sits centrally. Place the white disk between the clear and the bottom layer. Place the spring and the plastic disc controller over the circuit. Screw the controller case back in. I should note that the first time I installed it, I skipped the plastic thin disc and nothing worked properly. That's when I also noticed the bulge due to the thicker pad. Layer Order The layer with the circuit contacts with the foam attachment goes to the very bottom, while the gold keypad will be the top layer. The transparent long piece will go in between the two longer circuit membranes. Observations It's a tricky set-up and takes patience. Before this I never bothered to see how the internals of the Intellivision worked. It's great that RWAP included the thinner variety of the foam pad. For Snafu or Space Armada, I can notice the difference. For Pac-Man and Lock'n'Chase it's pretty much the same, so I'm guessing it's the game or my skill. I will probably order another pair just to have the parts. I'd love to find replacement brand-new side buttons or disc just to spruce things up a bit. Overall I'm very happy with the replacement part.
  6. Today I've got something interesting to share in the 2600 controller department. There is now an Ebay adapter that you can obtain pretty cheaply (made by Atariage member, Ikonsgr) that gets a PC USB mouse/trackball working on the 2600. The catch is that: #1) only USB mice and trackballs that have PS/2 compatibility will work (and those that have PS/2 plugs need to be adapted to USB with a cheap little green PS/2 to USB adapter). #2) This only works with the digital games (not the paddle games). The really great news is that #1 can be remedied by buying an Aten KVM switch that converts USB (non-PS/2) mice and trackballs into PS/2 compatible devices. These are not cheap (over $50), but can open up possibilities of playing your 5200 with some quite interesting controllers, including the X-Arcade Tankstick which has a trackball (shown in the picture below) and this as well: https://www.ign.com/articles/2006/02/03/x-arcade-trackball-review The video below starts with using the 2600 to play Mines of Minos, Cosmic Swarm, Centipede, and Off the Wall, and then goes on to the 7800. I start the explanation about the X-Arcade Tankstick trackball around 16 and a half minutes in (showing it work with 7800 Centipede) so you'll probably want to not miss that part. Also there's 5200 compatibility with an additional adapter so that might interest you as well. Hope this is beneficial to some of you The products: Here's the link to the PC USB mouse/trackball to 9 pin Atari adapter (sometimes the Ebay product goes out of stock, and then gets restocked, so definitely keep checking back if it's not available): https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Mouse-Adapter-For-Atari-ST-Amiga-Amstrad-Commodore-9pin-DB9-Joystick-Port/274204936054 Here are two links for the PS/2 to USB mini green adapter (1st one may not be based in the U.S. & is cheaper): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UMX89XA#Ask https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GUV4UK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MOoDEb7Y5HZVV The Aten KVM Switch (Model CS82U) is necessary to get non-PS/2 mice and trackballs working on your Atari systems and is found here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QOBZXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ZgpDEbQPRJ199
  7. So I decided to build myself an arcade authentic, full-featured twin-stick arcade controller for the 5200...to properly enjoy the 5200 ports of Space Dungeon and Robotron: 2084. Lots of people have made Robotron: 2084 themed controllers, I've even built one for the 8-Bit/7800, so I figured I'd break the mold and build one themed for the 5200 exclusive arcade port of Space Dungeon. So unveiling my Space Dungeon Edition - VVG Experience Controller: Built into a beefed-up Hammond Mfg 20" x 11.25" aluminum enclosure and featuring: (2) iL EuroJoystick, 8-way joysticks w/ round restrictors (2) iL SST threaded top joystick shafts (2) Groovy Game Gear Hard Candy ball knobs (white) (2) Groovy Game Gear Classx push-buttons, w/ True-Leaf Pro leaf-swtiches (1) Grayhill 16 tactile button keypad, w/ custom button legends (6/6) Potentiometers, allowing for full adjustment of each joystick's maximum left, center, maximum right & maximum up, center, and maximum down resistance values for maximum game and console compatibility Custom CPO artwork based on the original arcade cabinet Custom 8' dual controller cord, cable assembly And obviously as the P1/P2 start buttons aren't required for Space Dungeon, they are wired as the 2 5200 fire buttons used in conjunction with the left joystick, thus giving this controller compatibility with the vast majority of the 5200 game library. The only games not playable are the few games that require "analog positioning", like Kaboom!, Super Breakout, Pole Position, Missile Command and a couple of others. Enjoy!
  8. There I was, in garage sale heaven. Standing over a box of second hand XBOX controllers. I got a little less excited when I noted how second hand they were. I thought I would salvage parts and asked, "How much?". She said, "$2". I said, "OK." He looked like he just lost an old friend and his wife was telling herself, "I should have said 3!" Fast forward 16 months and I'm sorting them into a box labeled "electronic recycle" because I was to lazy to open them up for salvage. One did catch my eye, it was an undersize wireless controller that made me think, "Can the d-pad and a trigger button be wired to plug into my Atari?" Fast forward another couple of months and I'm playing Star Raiders with an XBOX Controller. At least one got saved from the landfill. -------------------------------------------------------------------- These photos were taken for reference. 1 - The controller was a 2.4 Ghz wireless MadCatz. (Receiver not avalible.) 2 - The main board after removing the transmitter and battery holder. 3 - Removed 2 screws and lifted the D-pad. 4 - Cut off existing wires. 5 - Solder wire for up, down, left, right, and Ground (common). Note wire colors, mine not standard. 6 - Contacts in placed and wires routed. One of the cross pieces in the plastic bracket needed to be remove for the board to sit flat. Solder joint interference. 7 - Cut a notch in case for CX40 cable. 8 - Solder 2 wires for trigger switch. One for the trigger pin and one for the ground. (solder joints are for a different design that didn't work so well. They didn't need to be moved.) 9 - Clean off resistive material across B contacts and solder micro switch as close to center as you can. Be sure the plunger will make contact with button. (the wires could have been soldered to the push button switch and glued into place.) 10 - Solder leads to joystick cable. UP-Pin1, Down - Pin2, Left - Pin3, Right - Pin4, Trigger - Pin6, and other side of trigger and common on d-pad - Pin8. 11 - Because the push button was to high, the plunger needed to sanded shorter. 12 - On the upper case, the button guide required some material removal to keep from depressing the switch. 13 - Put the case together. Be sure wires are not pinched or interfering with button movements. The case was opened and closed several times to make modification before the trigger reliably worked. I was really close to giving up. There was a bit of lucky with the d-pad. This joystick tester came in handy. I think it saved me more time then it took to build it.
  9. Hey all, I am new to this retro collecting thing and recently received this joystick in an Atari 2600 lot I bought. From what I've been able to find, this seems to be a VIC-20 joystick, which apparently didn't sell too many before being discontinued due to a lawsuit from Atari. I'm looking for more information on this from people who are more familiar with the subject. Anyone here have any ideas on how rare it is? Is this something people are looking for? I noticed the joystick doesn't have much movement.. could it be locked up? Is it something I should open up and take a look at? The story itself seems really interesting, so I was looking for some more info on it. Any conversation on it would be great!
  10. Hey Guys... I'm wondering if enough people have some version of the Flashback joysticks to start to actually start checking for those special button presses (I believe one of them is "left+right", something you would never hit in real life games... except maybe for Track & Field), one of them is "up+down", etc. There should be a list somewhere of this button mapping... I think I may start doing that, as I can't see it hurting anything. If someone doesn't have the joystick, there's always the 'Start & Select' on the console... Bob Also, (unrelated topic) - I bought one of those hyperkin joysticks (the one with the two buttons on it), and I'm going to rewire it to be the left & right buttons for the 7800... just because of Baby Pac-Man... Much easier to use
  11. Hi guys! I and my friend decided to bring something new to you. The joystick. But we need some feedback before it. Description: We decided to find out a way how to make new Atari Joysticks and similar joysticks with 3D printer. We try to have as similar as possible construction for the same impression of playing games like the original old joysticks. But we have one thing in our construction different. Our Stick will be exchangeable and modulable. We will have more types of sticks and you can choose what type you want. Sticks will have different shape, size etc. Our questions are: 1) Is this idea interesting for you? 2) Are you looking for some new joystick because your old was damaged? 3) What types of sticks do you prefer? What joysticks do you like? What was your favourite joystick in 80/90's? ( CX40, QuickShot etc. ) 4) Would you like exchangeable stick at your joystick ( when you will get tired of the old type of stick you can simply change it for another one ) or you'd rather buy another new joystick when you want to exchange the stick? 5) Is the autofire function important for you? 6) How long stick movement do you prefer? ( short movement is like pressing a small button, long movement is like pressing a key on your keyboard ) 7) Do you like an idea that you can buy only the 3D data for your 3D printer and make it for your own? 8) Do you have some tips why this idea doesn't make sense? For example you can buy really new QuickShot on Ebay etc. Progress: Thank you for your time, sharing and answers! Best regards, EnJoyStick Team
  12. Hey everyone, I'm looking for a Wico 5200 joystick and a y adapter cable for my Atari 5200 setup. I have a couple digital pro sticks but I would like to have an analog stick in the mix. I'm also looking for a wico keypad to go with the joystick. attached is a picture of what I'm looking for, the picture is borrowed from another Atariage members post a while back. Hit me up if you have any of this for sale, Thanks
  13. Hello! acquired these joysticks in a lot purchased on eBay and have absolutely no idea who manufactured these. They do resemble Wico joysticks a lot (bat handle), but have suction caps and two fire buttons in their base and the rapid fire speed is on the bottom. Internally, they have four "Zippy" branded micro switches (smaller than those found in Competition Pros) for directions, two "spring switches" for the large fire buttons and a leaf switch for the small fire button in the top.
  14. great alternative to the Atari Deluxe US controllers 2 Atari 7800 CX78 Control Pad European version for sale EBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/171333422473?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  15. i made this test now, rom with sources in the attachment - it's a rom for testing the joystick, and simulates texting from the keypads a bit like some cellphones years ago (still quite embryonic, perhaps someone can have some idea for using it in a game, considering there is a lot of people comfortable with this texting method, actually ) i hope this can be useful, not only as a rom for testing, as for encouraging people here on coding ColecoVision stuff (and Boriel’s ZX-Basic Compiler seems to be a very neat cross-development tool for this) joysticktest_2_keypad.zip
  16. Hello guys, it's been really a while I don't post anything here (so busy), however we were discussing this ebay auction in Brazil, I've searched here in marketplace and found no one talking about it. Is this true? Seller has 100% reputation. eBay Auction -- Item Number: 150983466719
  17. I've got a few Atari controller secrets to reveal which some of you may have never come upon. Here's the lowdown: 1) the Atari CX-22 Trakball has a desirable feature that the later-released black CX-80 Trakball doesn't have. In fact, there are other 2600-compatible trackballs that have this feature as well... 2) The combo paddle/joystick 2600 controllers made by Sears and Coleco are not as effective to play paddle games on a light sixer or heavy sixer unless you have a particular item to use with the controller. There are some people here who may have never known about this. 3) Omega Race is a two-button game requiring a special "Booster Grip" to properly play it. Some may not have that Booster Grip, but there is another way to play the game... and a controller from another gaming console is the key. 4) There's a particular mouse that can be used to play 2600 games, but there's a trick that you have to know in order to make it "active". I've got all this explained in today's presentation on my Wired-up Retro Ytube channel. Enjoy:
  18. Well, I've done some more experimenting and have managed to find a way to attach wired PS3 and Xbox 360 controllers to the 5200 to play the games that offer digital controls (as opposed to the analog-only games like Missile Command). This required a number of video game controller adapters/cables and a USB power supply. Here's how it's done: The adapters needed to get the wired PS3 controllers compatible with the Atari 5200 are as follows: 1) a 15 pin PC Gameport controller to 15 pin Atari 5200 adapter. These are obtained by contacting Atariage member, bohoki. He makes these for under $20 (shipped within the U.S.). 2) An adapter that converts Atari/Amiga/Sega controllers with a 9 pin connector to a 15 pin PC gameport. These are available on Ebay from "Ikonsgr74" and can be obtained for under $20 (shipped anywhere in the world). 3) A Tototek Joypad Convertor version MD (for Playstation controller compatibility on the Megadrive/Sega Genesis). These adapters are under $30. 4) A Brook Game Controller Super Convertor for adapting a PS3/PS4 controller to a PS2 console. These can be had for under $40. 5) a USB splitter cable ($12 or less). 6) a powersupply with a USB cord (5Volts) OR a USB Hub with connected power supply. To get the Xbox 360 controllers compatible with the 5200, you'll need one additional adapter. It is the Mayflash Universal Adapter for Xbox360/PS3/PS2/PC USB. These may be found at Amazon. Current price for these on Amazon is $30, but that is subject to change. Mayflash adapters tend to become scarce and go up in price. If any of you have interest in a video presentation on this (as well as a quick explanation of how to fix a potentiometer controller problem) here's the link for that:
  19. From the album: RetroIndieGamer's classic games collection

    This is my Atari 2600 jr. and a few other goodies. To the left of the console is an Atari 2600 joystick, an Atari 2600 plug-n-play, an Intellivision plug-n-play, and a Genesis plug-n-play. To the right of the console is a Pac-man plug-n-play which has Pac-man, Super Pac-man, and Pac & Pal, and below it is the Atari 2600 paddle controller. Actually, it is the paddle controller for the Flashback 4, but it does work with the original unit,

    © Retro Indie Gamer 2013

  20. From the album: Darth Duke's Atari Corner

    Here is my weapon of choice. It's an Archer third party joystick that I've had for years. It's got great responsiveness and two fire buttons. The only problem was that it gets slippery when your palms sweat. So, I wrapped it with baseball bat grip tape. Problem solved. Has suction cups on the bottom so I can put it on a TV tray or lap pillow with one of those build in desks on it to keep it steady sometimes. Was a lifesaver when I hurt my left shoulder in a car accident. With this joystick on a TV tray, I was still able to play my Atari even though I had to have rotator cuff surgery on my left shoulder. Couldn't play any of my other systems, except select games on the Wii, so the suction cups made my Atari, my go-to console for those months.

    © DarthDuke 2016

  21. HI guys, I'm afraid I don't quite understand how to link to the Gallery like the pinned post said. I don't see the code they are saying to copy on my Gallery page. I hope using a URL link is okay instead. http://atariage.com/forums/gallery/album/1747-darth-dukes-atari-corner/
  22. There's a little controller adapter that I came across on Ebay which can allow 15 pin gameport PC controllers to work on systems like the 2600 which have 9 pin controller ports. I bought it here: https://ebay.us/ON1DA8 I've spent some time playing some of my 2600 games with PC controllers and I have to say it's really breathed new life into some games I would've not given much thought to playing. I've produced some footage for you if you're interested here:
  23. Ok, I don't need any help or anything. I just wanted to post about a weird issue I ran into today. I had a Joystick that wasn't working, so I decided to do some troubleshooting. The first thing I noticed when I took it apart, was that the wires were a different color than I expected. I wrote down the colors and where they went, then disconnected them so I could do some testing. I first checked the PCB with my multimeter. It checked out fine. So, I started checking the cable. I was able to determine that pins 2,3,4 and 6 were fine. I couldn't get anything on pins 1 and 8. I looked the cable over and could see no issues at all. There were no crimps, kinks, cuts or other visible damage. I did everything I could think of to try and get a reading on the non-working pins. After about 20 minutes I gave up and decided to cut the cable and test the wires and the cable (plug) end. I cut it about 5 inches from the connector and tested it. Everything worked. I then tested the rest of the cable and still no readings on 1 and 8. I threw away the cable, but kept the end, just in case I could find a use for it later on. I know the wires are thin, but I never expected to find two that were broken, without some type of damage on the outside of the cable. It just seemed odd to me. Anyway, that's all I wanted to say.
  24. I have an interesting joystick from Spain: Telemach 200. I'm looking to trade for other rare joysticks. The joystick has arcade components, Industria Lorenzo stick. It has a 9 pin connector. I use it on 2600. There is a switch on the back for other systems, (Amiga?). There are 4 suction cups on the bottom. I'm most interested in homebrew joysticks. But also various rare or quality that I don't already have. I mainly play 2600. Also Vectrex. I can use db15 gameport analog joysticks on Atari with an adapter that I have, which I like and which is another trade option. Possibly arcade or industrial joystick components. Old Pong console modded to work as VCS Paddle controllers!!!! ... Atari Game Brain, H.E.R.O., Montezuma's Revenge... VecMulti for Vectrex..
  25. I'm looking for ideas on a new design for the Atari Pro CX-1000. You can see my current designs HERE As you can see we have Atari boxing, Q-bert, Pac-man, Pitfall! and Donkey Kong. I'm currently working up a design for Berzerk. So tell me, what game would you like to see made into the next Atari Pro joystick?
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