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Found 96 results

  1. Hi guys! I and my friend decided to bring something new to you. The joystick. But we need some feedback before it. Description: We decided to find out a way how to make new Atari Joysticks and similar joysticks with 3D printer. We try to have as similar as possible construction for the same impression of playing games like the original old joysticks. But we have one thing in our construction different. Our Stick will be exchangeable and modulable. We will have more types of sticks and you can choose what type you want. Sticks will have different shape, size etc. Our questions are: 1) Is this idea interesting for you? 2) Are you looking for some new joystick because your old was damaged? 3) What types of sticks do you prefer? What joysticks do you like? What was your favourite joystick in 80/90's? ( CX40, QuickShot etc. ) 4) Would you like exchangeable stick at your joystick ( when you will get tired of the old type of stick you can simply change it for another one ) or you'd rather buy another new joystick when you want to exchange the stick? 5) Is the autofire function important for you? 6) How long stick movement do you prefer? ( short movement is like pressing a small button, long movement is like pressing a key on your keyboard ) 7) Do you like an idea that you can buy only the 3D data for your 3D printer and make it for your own? 8) Do you have some tips why this idea doesn't make sense? For example you can buy really new QuickShot on Ebay etc. Progress: Thank you for your time, sharing and answers! Best regards, EnJoyStick Team
  2. Today I have some relatively new information on a $17 controller adapter that you can obtain on Ebay that, when combined with a PC 15 pin gameport to Atari 5200 controller adapter (like the one currently being made by bohoki) will get your Atari 2600, Sega Master System, and Sega Genesis controllers working on your 5200. What's extra awesome about this is that the Sega controllers have compatibility with the two button games, and this is what the Masterplay Clone enables. (Unfortunately, no one is currently producing the Masterplay Clone for purchasing, though.) Here is the Ebay link to the product: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Amiga-Atari-Amstrad-Commodore-DB9-9Pin-Joystick-to-15Pin-Port-support-Usb-Adpt/272348471848?hash=item3f693be228:g:Df4AAOSwUd9aaMnL I've ordered adapters from this Ebay seller, Ikonsgr74, since 2015 and can vouch for his top-notch workmanship. He will not disappoint you. I have some additional good news: The Atari 2600 Trakball works with it to play the digital games that may be worth a try on the 5200. I have tried it with Gyruss, Ballblazer, and Galaxian with nice control results- especially Gyruss. The trakball unfortunately doesn't work with the analog-only games like Missile Command, Tempest, Star Wars Arcade, and Super Breakout. For two button digital games like Defender and Dreadnaught Factor, the Sega Sportspad (which is a trackball) also works great. If you have a couple of Camerica NES products (The receiver for the "Freedom Stick" with Genesis cables and the "Freedom Connection" transmitter device) you can add those adapters and get your NES controllers working on the 5200. I have enjoyed playing with my NES Starmaster joystick and NES Max gamepad on games like Dig Dug and Defender. In fact, on Defender, the Star Master joystick helped me to get my best ever score of around 89,000. That joystick has a very satisfying 'click' for each direction it is tilted- though it's not actually a microswitch-laden joystick like the Quickshot II Plus. Hard to describe, but it's just a perfect joystick and I'm very grateful to be able to use it to play my favorite 5200 games. I've detected no lag by the way, so that's good... Also there's a way to connect the 8bitdo NES Retro Receiver to the 5200 via the two adapters (and Camerica NES products and NES Fourscore) and play your 5200 digital games wirelessly with the controllers it's compatible with: The Dual Shock 4, Dual Shock 3, Wii Remote, and Wii U Pro Controller. I've tested it and had great success just last evening. Hope you enjoy the info. Special thanks to Swami for being the 1st guinea pig to try out Ikonsgr74's newly revised controller adapter on the 5200 (via being added to the bohoki adapter). I'm definitely grateful for learning about this from you.
  3. Not my video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zd3GD2NO3dI I searched the forums and couldn't find anything. I must be getting senile in my old age - I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to pair the joysticks to the FB9 Gold via Bluetooth until I found the video. The Bluetooth pairing insert in the package was barely readable and confusing. (Off-topic) At least they included an HDMI cable in the box. Edit: Apologies to Bill Loguidice for the negative comment regarding AtGames. It was not meant to offend (admittedly it was not in good taste) but to comment on how the clarity of the instructions could have been improved. I have removed the offending remark.
  4. Okay this isn't necessarily the right forum for this question but it's the closest I can think of where someone might actually know what I'm talking about and have an answer. So if you open up a typical Atari 2600 joystick, the wires that connect to the circuit board have (on the end of them) a tiny clamp which slides onto a trace on the board. Sometimes when I open up a joystick to repair it this is broken. I want to order some replacements. I can't seem to figure out what this part is called in order to search for it. Example: The closest I can find is a search for "wire crimps" from mouser.com but none of those look quite right.
  5. I designed a circuit that allows the use of a PS2 controller to be used on an ATARI 2600 or ATARI 7800 gaming console. What I would like to know is if there would be any interest for this being turned into real a product? Of course the actual size of the product would be much smaller and more manageable. Please see my demo on YouTube: More info about me can be found here: https://www.linkedin.com/in/afabrizi/
  6. Hi, I have an Atari 5200, but need more ways to use joysticks/controllers than just the refurbished orginal ones. I wonder if someone here sells/makes connections/adaptors/cables to make PC 15 pin joysticks or say Sega Master/Genesis controller on the Atari 5200. Regards,
  7. Various good stuff I'll be sad to part with, all items are loose and without retail packaging, suggested prices not including shipping, Nintendo Bioforce Ape prototype reproduction cartridge $40 Atari Telemach 200 joystick - import with IL arcade components, switch for Amiga compatibility $85 Vectrex Control panel $80 Minestorm overlay $30 Star Castle overlay $35 Original Lightpen with all three lightpen cartridges $160 Debuzz kit and Cap kit $40 .. I also have not pictured a never assembled Rolo's Vectrex controller .. I have the lightpen game manuals but I haven't decided to include them yet Spikes Circus and Vectrex Logo PCB reissues maybe for sale. Debris Revisited maybe for sale.
  8. I've got a few Atari controller secrets to reveal which some of you may have never come upon. Here's the lowdown: 1) the Atari CX-22 Trakball has a desirable feature that the later-released black CX-80 Trakball doesn't have. In fact, there are other 2600-compatible trackballs that have this feature as well... 2) The combo paddle/joystick 2600 controllers made by Sears and Coleco are not as effective to play paddle games on a light sixer or heavy sixer unless you have a particular item to use with the controller. There are some people here who may have never known about this. 3) Omega Race is a two-button game requiring a special "Booster Grip" to properly play it. Some may not have that Booster Grip, but there is another way to play the game... and a controller from another gaming console is the key. 4) There's a particular mouse that can be used to play 2600 games, but there's a trick that you have to know in order to make it "active". I've got all this explained in today's presentation on my Wired-up Retro Ytube channel. Enjoy:
  9. Modded my Atari paddle to a new design with an aluminum volume knob and some adhesive woodgrain drawer liner. Here's how I did it:
  10. I just did a very quick search and didn't find a picture of this so I thought I would post it. It's from a 1984 Montgomery Ward Christmas Catalog (page 535). It may just be the picture, but this controller does seem to look a little different than the standard Proline controller from the 7800. This version appears to be designed for the Atari 2600 (most likely the same as the 7800 proline I assume). Anyway here's the full catalog page:
  11. A friend of mine has loaned me his custom Jaguar Arcade Stick with spinner, so I gave it a whirl. The games definitely were enhanced by the arcade-like control (played Tempest 2000, Primal Rage, and Raiden, among others). Check it out here:
  12. I have done some brainstorming for a YouTube video that has to do with classic video game controllers that people pay over $100 for. In the end, I'm thinking people don't pay that kind of money for 2600 controllers... but could I be wrong? I know there's a Wico that has an extra large base that people look for. Do you think that one would fetch more than $100? Here's the link to the video if you're interested:
  13. This one was based on suggestions from the community, and my own frustration with fast-moving games like Stargate that require two controllers. Two loose factory controllers are fine for the slower games, but unless you have a contraption that holds the two together, very frustrating for the fast games. Originally this was going to be for the Atari 2600 only, but a number of 7800 fans voiced a desire for one that would work with their favorite system, so why not? Especially with Robotron available on that system! The leftmost pair of buttons corresponds to the left joystick, and the rightmost pair to the right joystyick. The two toggle switches on the back shuffle the A / B buttons in each pair when used on the 7800. When used on the 2600, both buttons perform the same function. The two joysticks are digital, but have the smooth feel of analog sticks. Case is made of steel, so it's a bit heavier than the average controller, but well-suited for tabletop use. Felt feet ensure that your prized hardwood table won't get all scratched up. Too early to tell how many of these will be produced. Like what you see? Please contact me for any info not presented here. Larry
  14. There's been a new discovery and I'm here to explain how to get certain Atari 2600 and 7800 controllers to work on your Atari 5200 for a pretty reasonable price. The 2600 and 7800 controllers will only be working on 5200 games that have a single button involved in the gameplay, not two. Also, I need to point out that the games that require analog movement (ie. Breakout, Kaboom, Missile Command) can't be effectively played with the 2600 and 7800 controllers. First, you'll need the PC gameport to 5200 controller adapter (the one I have is made by fellow Atariage resident 5200 expert, bohoki, and it's a good design at a quite reasonable price). If you own one of these, you will want to get a PC joystick and/or gamepad with two buttons to go along with it (to play games which require two buttons like Defender). The schematics are available online if you choose to make one on your own. Secondly you need to buy an Atari 2600 to PC gameport controller adapter (schematic is available if you pm me). This adapter is currently made available on Ebay by ikonsgr74. Here is the current Ebay listing: http://m.ebay.com/itm/AMIGA-ATARI-AMSTRAD-COMMODORE-DB-9-PIN-JOYSTICK-ADAPTER-DB15-PIN-PC-GAME-PORT-/111807334682?nav=SEARCH The two adapters can be connected together allowing for a 2600 or 7800 controller to be put into use for games which have compatibility with digital controllers. This is going to essentially give you something kinda like a Masterplay Interface adapter, but with a couple downsides. 1) The original Atari-made 2600 joysticks, paddles, and trackballs that I've tried are incompatible. The heavy sixer CX-10 could work, though. I don't own one of those. Wico bat handle sticks are incompatible. I have 4 or 5 Atari-made/Wico-made joysticks and a single trakball and not one worked properly. 2) Even though you'd think it'd work with Genesis controllers, it's not compatible. I've been looking for a workaround but have come to the conclusion that the design of the 2600 to PC Gameport adapter is preventative for getting the power to the Genesis controller circuit that requires +5 volts (and that includes attempts to use an Edladdin Genesis to 7800 conversion cable). If you want to hear any details of my attempt to wire in an external power supply, pm me. 3) If you have a Pointmaster, Spectravideo 2 button, Quickshot 2 Deluxe, or Colecovision controller you were hoping to use, you'll be disappointed. The upsides are: 1) One controller that works and works well is the Slik Stick which is a favorite of mine. 2) it not only works with an Atari-made 7800 Proline controller, but a couple of my NES-to-7800 conversion controllers (converted NES Epyx 500xj and a converted rectangular NES controller). I figure it'll also work with the rectangular Atari-made European pad, too, but I don't have one to test out. You get single button compatibility out of all of them. 3) Sega Master System gamepads and Control Sticks work and work well for single button games. (But not the Sega Sportspad) 4) Wired controllers made for the Atari Flashback 2 system work and work well. 5) Sears Video Arcade II joysticks (not the paddle part), Gemsticks, Mindscape Power Player trigger-joysticks, Epyx 500xj, and Coleco Gemini joysticks (not the paddle part) all work great. Well, there you go. It's not exactly a Redemption adapter, but for less than $30 you can enjoy many 5200 games with a reasonably good number of controllers. I never got an opportunity to use a Masterplay Interface (or a Redemption adapter for that matter), but now I'm seeing the true value of what many have come to appreciate before me... and it didn't cost me an arm and a leg! If you're concerned about whether it's safe for your game system, I will say that nothing bad has happened to my 4 port system over the past couple months of hot swapping various controllers into the connected adapters with the 5200 on. If you haven't tried 2600/7800 compatible controllers on your 5200, you now have a great opportunity.
  15. I've owned a few of these. Still have my original from the early 80s. I used to dislike the overall feel because to me they felt a little cheap. But after decades of service, and owning several, they sure as hell aren't "cheap". The ergonomics are a bit wonky, and the "feel" is a little off .... but they are ultra reliable (never had to take one apart for maintenance), and they are very accurate. The colors aesthetically match the XE series too; just a minor bonus for me. Now, for better or worse, I'm just used to them, as it's been my standby/go-to if other sticks were down for maintenance. Now it's just my main stick. Was looking at picking a few more up and noticed the ones I have (and have had) all have a depression on the underside and two screws on the joystick side. Most of the ones for sale have no bottom depression and have an additional screw holding on the joystick casing. Any comments, thoughts, or other insights on which variation is better? Should I go out of my way to stick with the variation I'm used to or is the other variation superior in some way. Thanks
  16. Three controllers in one! MiniVex 3-in-1 Deluxe for the Atari 2600 / VCS provides a joystick, driving controller, and paddle all in one unit, PLUS a detachable mini-paddle to add a second player to paddle based-games. Play all your favorite games, one after the other, with no need to unplug and plug in all the different controller types. The original 3-in-1 has a switch for toggling between paddle "A" and paddle "B." The Deluxe instead has a jack for the mini-paddle, so your trash-talking buddy can challenge you in Street Racer. Joystick has the feel of an analog stick but functions like a digital one. All new internal parts are used, so NO jittering during driving or paddle games. Either button can be used with any of the three controls, making it friendly for both right and left handers. Cases are made of tough steel; your dog cannot chew them to pieces. Note: these are hand-made by me, so they aren't cosmetically perfect. 30-day repair guarantee. Please see photos below and check out this link to see the MiniVex 3-in-1's and all my other items currently available: eBay Seller: classicgamesandcarsfan Thanks for stopping in. Larry
  17. Well, I've done some more experimenting and have managed to find a way to attach wired PS3 and Xbox 360 controllers to the 5200 to play the games that offer digital controls (as opposed to the analog-only games like Missile Command). This required a number of video game controller adapters/cables and a USB power supply. Here's how it's done: The adapters needed to get the wired PS3 controllers compatible with the Atari 5200 are as follows: 1) a 15 pin PC Gameport controller to 15 pin Atari 5200 adapter. These are obtained by contacting Atariage member, bohoki. He makes these for under $20 (shipped within the U.S.). 2) An adapter that converts Atari/Amiga/Sega controllers with a 9 pin connector to a 15 pin PC gameport. These are available on Ebay from "Ikonsgr74" and can be obtained for under $20 (shipped anywhere in the world). 3) A Tototek Joypad Convertor version MD (for Playstation controller compatibility on the Megadrive/Sega Genesis). These adapters are under $30. 4) A Brook Game Controller Super Convertor for adapting a PS3/PS4 controller to a PS2 console. These can be had for under $40. 5) a USB splitter cable ($12 or less). 6) a powersupply with a USB cord (5Volts) OR a USB Hub with connected power supply. To get the Xbox 360 controllers compatible with the 5200, you'll need one additional adapter. It is the Mayflash Universal Adapter for Xbox360/PS3/PS2/PC USB. These may be found at Amazon. Current price for these on Amazon is $30, but that is subject to change. Mayflash adapters tend to become scarce and go up in price. If any of you have interest in a video presentation on this (as well as a quick explanation of how to fix a potentiometer controller problem) here's the link for that:
  18. New MiniVex controller for Atari 2600 / VCS combines a joystick, paddle, and driving controller all in one unit! Up until now, MiniVex controllers were made for the Vectrex (with the exception of the MiniVex Pedal I, which is compatible with both Vectrex and Atari) but this one is strictly Atari compatible. Compact size fits right in your hand, see second photo for size comparison. ONE cord and ONE plug, you can play your favorite games, one after the other, without having to unplug and plug in all the different controllers. Case is made of tough steel, has a weighty feel to it. Two toggle switches on the back. One selects joystick or paddle function, and the other toggles between paddle "A" and paddle "B." The black button on the back enables and disables the driving controller. Two buttons for your convenience, no matter if you're left or right handed. Either button can be used with any of the three controllers. Driving controller on the left, paddle on the right. Joystick in the center has the feel of an analog stick but functions like a digital one. All new parts used in the making, so there'll be no jittering during Breakout or Indy 500. This and other MiniVex controllers are hand-made by me, so they aren't cosmetically perfect. They do come with a 30-day repair guarantee. A handful of these will be auctioned on eBay during the next few weeks, as they get made. The hand-making process is slow, and how many will ultimately be made remains up in the air at this point. Please see this and my other eBay listings under seller name "classicgamesandcarsfan." Larry
  19. If you were making an Atari 2600 Arcade what joysticks would you use? What style of arcade quality sticks would you use to be the most playable for the games and the most authentic to early Atari / US based arcade games? I was thinking the IL Eurostick or the Happ Competition pro do any of you have any other suggestions?
  20. I couldn't find a thread specifically about this, please pardon me if there is one. Pictured is a MiniVex II, a controller I've been producing for the Vectrex. Been considering a compact twin stick unit, like this one, that's compatible with both Atari 2600 / VCS and the 7800. Thus far I know of Raiders of the Lost Ark and Stargate for the 2600, and Robotron for the 7800, but that's all...can someone list other original release and homebrew titles for both of these systems that use dual sticks? Much appreciated. Larry
  21. This is a 6 button 8 directional gamepad for the TI-99/4a natively. (No Adaptors needed) It's meant to be a D.I.Y. project. Total cost to me was Aprox. $19.00 US for 2 gamepads and 20 diodes. Controller Source - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EAM862S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Diode source - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T6Q3RE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don't know who created the original schematic, I find it all over the web. But the original in the upper left of my picture below is of a 2 port atari adaptor for the TI-99/4a created by someone else. Same goes for the pin out diagram for the TI side including the 2 db9 pictures. Add to that other materials used (solder, wiring, glue) for pennies PLUS time and you have yourself 2 TI-99/4a Gamepads, one for each console. If I were asked to build one for someone, I'd ask for $20 $40 per joypad completely modded as shown. I had to up the price because it takes me a couple of hours to complete a mod on one Joypad including setup and breakdown times. I highly encourage you all to do this MOD yourself but if you really want me to do it for you, I have to ask for more money due to time. Looking at the attached picture will show you how I did this with the materials I had. I'll give some notes here: 1. Plan ahead with your own drawings that you understand. Your wire colors may differ depending on the controller you go with. Test them all and make your own chart for pin#, colour, board location.You'll want a controller that has all 9 wires to be certain. Sega Genesis controllers are like that as far as I know. 2. Test every wire and connection from the cable end to the connection ends as you go along. Check all solder points and pad connectivity as you go. One at a time. 3. It's easiest to do the Joy1 and Joy 2 connections first since they do not have diodes associated with them. 4. Be sure to isolate all traces. I used a dremel to obliterate the logic chip in to dust and cut all the lines. I isolated each solder point the gamepad already had and made sure joy1 and joy2 check lines were isolated from each other. review the photo and follow the traces. It should all make perfect sense. 5. I used Hot Glue to hold things in place and I applied it as I went along ensuring I isolated all possible shorts (using hot glue as an insulator). 6. I also drilled holes next to all the already connected wires on the board to allow me an easy path for my connections. You can see the unused holes in the picture for lines 1->7 and 6->5. 7. I was fortunate that the gamepad board had exposed round pads of bare solder. I suppose those were for Q/A testing. I drilled holes next to the ones I needed for new connections. I had to scratch the enamel off the common trace for J1 Signal sitting in the middle of the 4 directionals due to lack of circle solder pad. You can see the circle pads I soldered to, there are a few unused. Look at the ones near the middle buttons that went unused in the picture below.... 8. Be careful not to short any bare wires, be aware not to close holes that were there already (for encasement pins) and of course be aware of your drilled holes when applying hot glue if you choose to mimic my method. 9. I borrowed a program from another Topic thread to test. There was a typo in the original, find it and fix it. - Source = http://atariage.com/forums/topic/166557-proplay-new-4-button-gamepad-for-ti/?p=2058171 Already fixed and slightly customized code. Note: I think it's inefficient for game controller code but works for testing. My Test Results. 10. Use it as intended. - You can certainly use this gamepad as a single player Joy1 for any existing games you have. OR play two player games on one gamepad.(WHuh?Why? I know) However; the joy 2 buttons are just that, for Joy 2. So if you press them in conjunctions with Joy1 buttons in a game such as PARSEC (pressing up on both Joy1 and 2 at the same time) it will allegedly cause glitches or something undesirable (no damage just in game controller glitch). Don't blame the joypad. If you connect two TI joysticks and did the same thing, you'll probably get the same glitches. It doesn't make sense to use the controller in this way for existing games that aren't coded for this. 11. Further modifications were necessary. The bottom half of the controller housing has cylinders molded in to fit flush against the PCB. I needed to give 'em a little shave with the dremel to fit the wiring and hot glue. 12. Don't hold me responsible if you destroy the planet by attempting or using this modification. Or even if you break your console or something less destructive than destroying the entire planet. I knew the risks and now you do too, If you follow these instructions, any part of them, in real life you do so at your own peril. Just because it worked for me....doesn't mean it'll work for you in the sense that it could have been my fault. Last but not least. You will need games specifically coded to work with the full functionality of this controller. The game pad directionals and the X button are the Joystick 1 directionals and fire button. Y/B/A/C/Z buttons are for Joystick2 as follows in same order Up/Down/Left/Right/Fire. I attempted to make my connections standard. So anyone who wants to make their own 6 button gamepad for the TI to code for, please take in to account the button assignments. Together we can establish a new standard in TI gaming and ensure our programs work across the board with any controllers folks my make on their own utilizing this Topic Thread,. THE START BUTTON IS UNUSED AND DOES NOTHING. Of course, I rate this project as easy for an ametuer. But do ask and learn, I used a heat sink for every solder point to protect the diodes. I don't know it that's unnecessary, but I did it anyway. Thanks to everyone here for encouragement and help. Now it's time to start making games that can take advantage of this design and layout. Get creative. Street Fighter? Tanks game where you can move one way and rotate the turret another? Puzzle games where you have to control 2 characters to solve the puzzle ? (Castle of Dr. Creep anyone? - (C64 game) or The Goonies?) RPGs with spell, attack, defend, jump, dodge buttons? What would you like to play on your TI with a 6 button gamepad? Make it, Code it, Play it. Share it. Do it.
  22. There's now a way to make 80s and 90s PC joysticks, steering wheels, and gamepads compatible with the Atari 7800 one and two button games. For the one button games all you need is this adapter: https://ebay.us/ON1DA8 For the two button games three adapters are required: Adapter #1: Edladdin Seagull 78 Adapter #2: Sega Master System Rapid Fire Adapter Adapter #3: 15 pin PC controller to Atari/Amiga adapter made by Ebay seller Ikonsgr74 Also included in the presentation is a unique way to play Robotron 2084 with combined gamepads. Enjoy enhancing your 7800 games.
  23. There's a little controller adapter that I came across on Ebay which can allow 15 pin gameport PC controllers to work on systems like the 2600 which have 9 pin controller ports. I bought it here: https://ebay.us/ON1DA8 I've spent some time playing some of my 2600 games with PC controllers and I have to say it's really breathed new life into some games I would've not given much thought to playing. I've produced some footage for you if you're interested here:
  24. Ok, I don't need any help or anything. I just wanted to post about a weird issue I ran into today. I had a Joystick that wasn't working, so I decided to do some troubleshooting. The first thing I noticed when I took it apart, was that the wires were a different color than I expected. I wrote down the colors and where they went, then disconnected them so I could do some testing. I first checked the PCB with my multimeter. It checked out fine. So, I started checking the cable. I was able to determine that pins 2,3,4 and 6 were fine. I couldn't get anything on pins 1 and 8. I looked the cable over and could see no issues at all. There were no crimps, kinks, cuts or other visible damage. I did everything I could think of to try and get a reading on the non-working pins. After about 20 minutes I gave up and decided to cut the cable and test the wires and the cable (plug) end. I cut it about 5 inches from the connector and tested it. Everything worked. I then tested the rest of the cable and still no readings on 1 and 8. I threw away the cable, but kept the end, just in case I could find a use for it later on. I know the wires are thin, but I never expected to find two that were broken, without some type of damage on the outside of the cable. It just seemed odd to me. Anyway, that's all I wanted to say.
  25. I'm looking for ideas on a new design for the Atari Pro CX-1000. You can see my current designs HERE As you can see we have Atari boxing, Q-bert, Pac-man, Pitfall! and Donkey Kong. I'm currently working up a design for Berzerk. So tell me, what game would you like to see made into the next Atari Pro joystick?
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