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Showing results for tags 'keyboard'.
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A month ago I posted on this forum that I was selling some Atari 800 mechanical keyboards. I now have a few more available: The keyboard is a drop-in replacement, already includes all of the required 3D printed parts all you need is a screwdriver (and your Atari 800 keycaps). I'm asking $65 (USD) + shipping (from Cleveland). I put together some installation instructions (although installation is fairly straight forward) and there's some photos in that PDF if you want to check it out. After my previous posting 3 people PM'd me about this and two have purchased, one said he wanted one but so far has not yet responded from my email. So I have 2 available for sure and possibly another 3rd if that person doesn't respond in a few days.
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What Midi keyboards are you using with your ST's? What is a good beginner one (49 key min) that won't break the bank? Wade
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My console has a "JediMatt" USB keyboard adapter that I bought from (I think) arcadeshopper. The adapter does not recognize the keys F and U (both upper and lower case), +, =, or the left-shift key. The right-shift key works as expected. Anyone have this problem? K-R.
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The DecentXL replacement keyboard for Atari 600XL and 800XL, winner of the 2023 ABBUC hardware contest, is now available in its modern version (all new keyboard, including key caps and console keys) for $310 + shipping ($15 to the US) & tax (depends on the state). It's also available as a kit for $250 + shipping & taxes. (photo is of my prototype, production models may vary) Check out all the technical details on the GitHub page: https://github.com/bleroy/3d-junkyard/blob/main/DecentXL/readme.md As with all my designs, this is 100% open-source hardware (you can make your own). The keyboards are made to order, so expect 2-3 weeks before it ships, depending on my part inventory. To buy, send me a PM with your choice of switch (clicky, tactile, linear, or your choice of brand and type) and your payment at https://buy.stripe.com/00gbMm0dXceIg804gg. Note that it's considerably more expensive for me to send keyboards outside of the US: you are likely to get hit hard by tariffs in addition to expensive shipping. A note on vintage keyboards, that adapt the original Atari key caps on top of modern low-profile switches: these will be available at a later date and only as kits. The first supported key types will be Stackpoles (square) and Alps.
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Hi, I was wondering if there are any technical drawings of the 600XL/800XL keyboards? Not just the keyboard matrix, but things like keycap sizes, spacing, et cetera. I have looked around, but couldn't find any. Or perhaps somebody with a caliper (which is still on my to buy list ) could make some measurements? Regards, Ivo
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I am going to manufacture new keyboard membranes for 800XL and XE series (for keyboard with springs). Maybe also for 1200XL. Would be here any interest? Price $25 for XL and XE. 1200XL would be slightly more expensive.
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I just acquired a TI-99/4a system and all seems well, except that the majority of the keys don't work, or don't work every time. Turns out that this beige TI-99 has a Mitsumi keyboard. I'm going to try and repair the mylar. Any suggestions? It pretty much seems like a lost cause as the mylar is "stuck" to the pc board. Are there replacement keyboards for these machines to be had anywhere?
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This is a work in progress.. will be happy to add anything missing - Greg A few bits of information, rules and guidelines on posting. Short links to our sub-forums: TI-99/4A Computers http://ti99.atariage.com TI-99/4A Development http://dev99.atariage.com Please read the AtariAge site guidelines which apply to and are enforced in our subs. Our sub-forums are divided to help cater to the varied interests in our beloved platform. The parent sub-forum, TI-99/4A Computers, contains general information and conversation regarding the TI-99/4A and its siblings, such as the 99/2, 99/8, CC-40, and BASICALCS. The sub-forum TI-99/4A Development is for conversations, information, announcements, etc. pertaining to programming, tinkering, or the development of software or hardware for these computers. This division is not intended to be a separation of the community but rather a way for those who have little interest in development but moreso in general discussions to focus their time on the fun-zone, while those who take more interest in the deep-down nitty-gritty and not so much general shenanigans to focus their attention just the same. The rest of us can spend all the time we want and will peruse both subs with reckless abandon. Insofar as development is concerned, once hardware or software has been completed or is at least ready for general consumption, an announcement should be made in the general TI-99/4A Computers forum for all to partake. Further development and inquiries should still be continued within the TI-99/4A Development sub-forum. The forum leader will move threads to a more appropriate forum. This may also be done by request should a thread be started in the wrong forum by accident or the trajectory changes from general to development or vice-versa. The forum leader will also merge identical threads started in both forums into a single thread in the proper forum. Per AtariAge guidelines, please refrain from posting identical threads in both sub-forums as way to ensure the topic gets viewed. Many people already browse both subs, and if your topic pertains more to development rather than general, or vice-versa, the thread should exist in the appropriate forum. As well, multiple threads created on the same topic in the same forum will be merged. Regular members can edit a post for 60 minutes after submission. This allows you to fix any issues you may notice with the post right away. Subscribers can edit posts for 30 days. In the Marketplace and Programming forums you can edit your posts indefinitely, since the flexibility of allowing editing of posts outweighs the potential abuse of the edit functionality. If you make a duplicate post in a thread, which can happen by accident or some unforeseen technical glitch, report the post by clicking on the "report" link at the bottom of the post and indicate in the report that the post is a duplicate. If you are not a subscriber, please help support AtariAge by using the eBay BBCodes ebay, ebayseller, and ebaystore when posting links to eBay! Click here for more information. Anything you would like to share with your fellow 99ers but is seriously off-topic for the forum may be posted in the official off-topic thread, located here To find the most popular threads click on sort by and select most popular. All of us are ready and willing to provide answers to your TI-99 questions if we can, some will just chime in if they cannot, and others will just lurk. If you have any questions specifically pertaining to the operation of our forums, please feel free inquire of the forum leader via Private Message (PM,) or one of the global moderators. BEFORE POSTING QUESTIONS PLEASE READ THE UPDATED TI-99/4A FAQ HERE: https://www.arcadeshopper.com/wp/ti-99-4a-faq/
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Hey all. I am struggling with the right Keyboard Hackfile needed to run with jzIntv on Windows 10. I pulled a working controller and Nurmix converter cable from my Intellivision II and connected to a Vision-Daptor. Windows does detect it, but it does not like the NE direction for some reason. When I launch jzIntv, the side buttons map to East and West direction, no keys register properly. I tried Swords and Serpents, Cloudy Mountain,Star Strike, Stunt Cycle. The keys are all jacked up. So I think that part of my problem is a bad key hackfile... Can anyone share a working version? I did try to get something from https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/5035/jzintv-intellivision-hackfile-not-working/14and http://www.intellivision.us/intvgames/interface/hackfile.cfg Thanks.
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Atari 400 Keyboard - Shift, Ctrl, Break not working.
slacker posted a topic in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Hi All, I've been working on fixing up an Atari 400 my friend gave me. It started with just getting a BSOD at boot. After attempting to clean and re-seat all the chips on the main board, CPU board, and RAM board with no luck, I picked up a 48k RAM upgrade board. After installing that, the computer booted! All keys on the keyboard worked and was able to use my BASIC cart for a while without any issues. I then I ran into another problem then where the joystick ports didn't work. (Just to note, these didn't work from the start, they didn't stop working after the computer booted for the first time) I was able to get those working by installing a new PIA chip (G65SC21P-2). Things seemed to be fine at this point. I played some games but then had issues with keyboard suddenly missing keys. Surprisingly, pulling and re-seating the PIA chip fixed this even though I was under the impression the keyboard was controlled by the POKEY and the two multiplexer chips. Anyway, long story short, I'm at the point where everything works great except the SHIFT, CTRL, and BREAK keys. These used to work as I was able to program a bit in BASIC earlier but now they're suddenly not working. I should also note, I have a 5200 that I swapped the CPU, GTIA, ANTIC, and POKEY chip back and forth into the 400 and it didn't make any difference to anything. I also swapped around the two keyboard multiplexer chips without any change. I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas or if you guys know what pins I can jump on the keyboard connector to simulate pressing "SHIFT+2" to get a double quote or something. I've been able to jump some pins to get it to display a bunch of characters but I'm not sure what combo is needed to simulate pressing SHIFT. The pinout images I've found online don't seem to match up what I'm seeing on my computer. Basically, I'm trying to rule out if somehow I borked the keyboard taking things apart 1 million times or if some other trace, chip pin, or something is broke or making a bad connection on the main board. Thanks in advance! -
Hello there, I've found a lot of 20 TI99 keyboards on my house (are new with plastic envelope). Just checking if anybody are interested on getting one (or all). The keyboard can be used on a normal PC with a Teensy 3.1, and I think the keycaps could be used on Topre keyboards. Please note that I'm on México City, so the shipping could be expensive for the entire box, but selling one by one could be a better choice. $30 per piece or $500 for all (plus shipping and PayPal fees)
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[UPDATE SOLD the 4 NOS 400 keyboards I had - still have one known good used one] For Sale: I have a small number of NOS (new old stock) original Atari 400 keyboards (the original flat ones). Please PM me if you need one. U.S. based. $25 + shipping. I have not tested each one however I used one in my tricked-out ‘keeper’ 400 and it works great. I also have 1 used known working 400 keyboard. $10 + shipping. They are lite but shipping takes a somewhat bulky box to properly protect the connector cable. I also have many Atari 8bit books and some cartridges for sale too if you want to combine and save on shipping. I will add links to my other FS items. Thanks for looking. 😁
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I'm using ErgodoxEZ keyboard connected via usb and every time when I try typing something in the emulator (basic), my characters are getting lost in terms of that I need to press key multiple times to get a character on the screen. Is this a known issue or it's just my emulator config which is not tuned well enough to handle usb keyboards ? I'd appreciate if someone would post config here which is actually working to emulate 800xl. thanks !
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Hi, I´ve made a little tiny project which may not has a really amount of usage for standard user, but some tinkerer could found it useful. I call it simply "KEYCON" - a small adapter PCB for Atari XL or Atari XE keyboard connectors. First let´s take a look of the thing: The PCB is 0.8mm thick and fits also in the original keyboard connector found on all XL/XE mainboards (except 1200XL and XEGS). There are several possibilities to attach a new keyboard connector or directly solder some wire connected to the keyboard. The KEYCON PCB can be used in an Atari XL or Atari XE. Of course you must use a XL keyboard when connected to a XL computer (and same for XE) like usual For diagnostic issues (for example using the Super SALT cartridgdes) the most needed keys are seperate located on the KEYCON PCB. So you can use endless loop tests and quick diagnostics with SALT without connecting a keyboard. This saves the mylar cables from breaking and so on. For each system (XL or XE) you will found the keys RESET, OPTION, SELECT, START and BREAK. For already defective mylar keyboard cables, the main problem is always... how to connect ANY type of substitute to the genuine keyboard connector? Without using direct soldering or many glue it´s not a working solution for a long time. Some time in the past I also use ribbon cables and solder the cables directly to the pads on the mainboard, removing the keyboard connector before. Or, another solution is to use some single row pin heades, they can plugged into the genuine keyboard connector also, but must be fixed. KEYCON can be used for a quick test (just plug the whole PCB with the front side into the existing, genuine connector on the XL/XE) or as a continuous replacement for defect keyboard connections. Below this text you will fine some examples of usage. I will only ship, for interested people, the bare PCB. Everybody has different needs and wishes, and all parts (IDC header connector, single row male header and so on) are easy to get in any electronics store. Tipp: sometimes they´re extremly cheap at shops selling accessoires for Arduino & Raspberry Pi solutions. The final version will have ENIG (immersion gold finish) contacts, will be a little smaller than now (actual: 61x69 mm) and will fit better using an Atari 800XL. I have made a little wrong measurement, final version will fit perfectly. Price for one bare PCB will be from 6 up to 9 Euros, depending on the amount of orders. Please show your interest (with quantity you want) here in this thread or by PN. I will collect responses until October, the 4th (2017-10-04) and then sent infos of final price and order details. Shipping for up to 5 pieces worldwide is 5 Euros. And now some pictures... Please read also the comments between the pics KEYCON plugged into the genuine keyboard connector (Atari 800 XL mainboard) Genuine keyboard connector replaced by a female row precision header. KEYCON plugged into the replacement header. The five "XL" keys are in the same order (except BREAK) like on any standard XL keyboard. With this prototype layout, the PCB can´t be fit into a cased 800 XL. Of course final version will do. This pictures shows ALL pads on the KEYCON PCB used. This is not mandatory of course. For example, if you install KEYCON permanently, the desoldered genuine keyboard connector isn´t useful placed at KEYCON. If you want to use a standard 50 pin ribbon cable as the new keyboard cable, then the IDC male header is needed, otherwise leave these pads empty. It´s on you how you want to use it. Also the tactile momentary switches for the keys named above must not installed, if not really needed. You can break this part of the KEYCON PCB away, if you want. There´s no electronics and special thing on KEYCON. KEYCON plugged into the genuine keyboard connector (Atari XE mainboard) Genuine keyboard connector replaced by a female row precision header. KEYCON plugged into the replacement header. The five "XE" keys are in the same order (except BREAK) like on any standard XE keyboard. In post o. 2 of this thread I will collect all interests and amounts. Best regards, Jurgen
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So far, I've repaired another Mitsumi keyboard. I have to say, it would not work until I completely separated the entire membrane from the board (pix and videos takes). It was a success. I've completed Shift838's reset button mod. I'm a little more than halfway through Tursi's internal 32k 2 chip mod. 2 chips and a gazillion freaking solder points with wires. Certainly well beyond my skill level but I'm doing the best I can with what I have. Hope it works by the time I'm done. May not be tonight, maybe tomorrow. But everything is fully documented with pics and videos. so we'll see how well those came out also. Just starting this long thread to keep it all neat and tidy.and in one place. I'll be creating pdfs as well. For now, I'll be posting random pics here once in a while. https://www.facebook.com/SExmortus/posts/10206716095292992
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Hello, I've recently been rebuilding my Coleco ADAM setup, most of which was sold off decades ago. Now I have a fully classic working system and a newly built ADAM drive emulator (ADE). All seems well, but I've been informed that I should be able to daisy chain the keyboard off the OUTPUT jack from a physical disk drive. When attempting this I get no light or function on the keyboard, although this keyboard (and another spare keyboard) work just fine when connected directly to the front or side ADAMNet jacks. Is there something I am doing wrong? I can successfully chain 2 physical disk drives without problem, but was advised to get keyboard chained before moving on to ADE coexistence with physical drive. Thanks for your advice, Shawn
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Where does the name "Keypad" come from? I only find it as "Keyboard"? There is the compatible "Video Touch Pad", maybe that names got mixed?
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I managed to get the atari 800 I had when I was a kid from my mother's house, after she passed away. It had a bad space bar from way back, and my little brother mangled the little metal fingers under the key trying to fix it. Long story short, I replaced the keyboard with a new one. It worked great for about 10 minutes, then suddenly no keys are working. Putting the old keyboard back in didn't clear up the problem, so I have to assume it's something on the motherboard. After doing a bit of research, it seems like the Antic chip might be the issue, as absolutely none of the keys work, but I don't know how to diagnose it for sure. Further, even if I decided to buy one of those fast disappearing chips to replace it with, what caused it to go out in the first place? It seems rather coincidental that it goes out 10 minutes after replacing the keyboard, after surviving for 30 years with a broken space bar, and a year of use since I got it back, using it with the broken space bar. I'd like some ideas on what to test to maybe figure out why it would have gone out. I appreciate any help someone can give me.
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My girlfriend introduced me to her TI-99/4A from when she was a kid, it has been stored in her family's garage since the mid 1980's. We took it back to our house, plugged it in, and I've fallen in love with this computer. I purchased a FlashROM99, a TiPi, and a sidecar 32K expansion. The only thing I have found that is not functioning correctly with the computer is that instead of only Function + 9 resetting the computer, the keys 6,7,8,9,0 reset the computer, regardless of any other key being pressed / alpha lock on or off, joystick connected or disconnected. I have run memory test and all banks show OK. I tested the voltage from the external and internal power supply with a multimeter and all seems to be normal there. To rule out the keyboard, I disconnected the keyboard and when shorting the appropriate pins for numbers 6,7,8,9,0 the same reset behavior persists. Interestingly enough, when first powering on the computer if it's been sitting, and I open up TI BASIC, I can get those numbers to show up briefly when pressed, though a lot of other garbage (letters and numbers not pressed) appears and then the reset behavior reemerges and stays. I would be tempted to ignore this problem, however it is necessary to use parentheses in order to call on certain devices and functions when using the TIPI, and any press of the 8 key will reset the computer. I have read other posts regarding the TMS9901 being a problem for some, but when searching I can't seem to find any similar behaviors described that prompted their replacement. Has anyone else seen anything quite like this? I don't see any obvious signs of corrosion or leaking / bulging capacitors. I have replacement capacitors and TMS9901s (eBay seller recommended in these forums!) just in case but I wanted to see if anyone has any suggestions before I start replacing parts just in case it's a common problem and I can focus on the right spot first.
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Hi everyone, A little while ago I was able to get an Atari 800 that was in pretty great condition with the exception of a needed cleaning. I decided that I wanted to make a custom keyboard using the original Atari's keyboard with the same switches and PCB. After taking the whole thing apart and separating the keyboard portion I learned the PCB was a Mitsumi KSD hybrid (ksd-a58au). I now don't know where to go because I was unable to find a complete Matrix or a new modernized PCB replacement. I also don't know what to do if I find a matrix as setting up a micro controller to interpret the and transfer it to usb sounded too complex for me. I was wondering where I should go from here. If anyone is able to provide useful information like a matrix or some idea as to how to make the PCB usb compatible it would be very appreciated. Thank you!
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I've acquired what I would almost literally call a "barn find" 800. The poor thing was the filthiest computer I've ever encountered and I've seen quite a few. The inside was so crusty with crap that the power switch had something partially blocking it from switching on. Once I rattled that out of the way, the machine powered up perfectly to an incredibly clean and stable Memo Pad. The outside was no better with filth ground into it. The only working key was the BREAK Key which was 100% functional. The entire rest of the keyboard was 100% non-functional. Not even an intermittent click. RESET, OPTION and SELECT work too but alas START seems to be sleeping (tested using a Pac Man cart). This 800 turned out to be a sort of "diamond in the rough" since after a FULL disassembly, a toothbrush, hot soapy water, a miracle sponge, etc. it looks almost new from '82! No cracks, scrapes, gouges not even discoloration! I think it was kept in a very, very dirty but very dark place. Here's the problem: I gave the keyboard (a Hi-Tek) a full keys-off wash and clean along with everything else. I fully expected it to come to life but no luck. The exact behavior as before. I checked all of the traces for continuity (everything seems connected) but it refuses to do anything. I know about the hitting keys over and over to get them to reconnect but I'm not sure that is the problem here since I cleaned just about everything including spraying contact cleaner on each of the little gold claws beneath the keys. BREAK, RESET, OPTION and SELECT continue to work and everything else is still dead. I don't think it's POKEY as the computer plays games great, the sound it great, etc. I know that the console keys are on a separate circuit to I will have to deal with the START key separately when or if I get the main keys working. The only keyboard matrix layout I can find applies to the 800XL, not the 800. And I cannot find anything that discusses the keyboard pin connector layout (the rainbow one in this case) that connects right under the 800's keyboard to the motherboard. Am I missing something here? Does anyone have any advise on what this might be? I feel as if I'm missing something very simple here. Thank you!
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Enjoying a relaxing day, browsing through some of my archives and saw the old 99/4A keyboard scanning routine that I coded a long time ago. Nothing special but, it really helped me to understand what that goofy keyboard was doing sometimes. For example, the "phantom key" that Thierry talks about really gave me fits when coding the mg explorer. You can easily see it with this tool, just press FCTN SHIFT D for the right arrow and you'll see that a fourth "phantom" key appears. That was a key sequence in the explorer memory editor for dragging the window around. That fourth key had to be trapped in the software and ignored. Hook up the joysticks and play with the dreaded alpha lock/up stick to see what happens. Anyway, enjoy. The code may have appeared in one of the Smart Programmer issues but I didn't look to see. Again, nothing special, very simple, just came in handy sometimes. Loads with the E/A (uncompressed tagged object file) and named, "keybrd." QUIT is disabled so you have to cycle power to get out of it. KSCAN.dsk
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What is the worth of an intellivision computer/keyboard ? A 2600 sits on top of it.