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Blogs

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  • The Mario Blog
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  • Horst's Blog
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  • Blogpocalypse
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  • creeping insanity
  • Sonic R's Blog
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  • Syntax Terror Games
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  • A Wandering Shadow's Travels
  • Arjak's Blog
  • 2600Lives' Blog
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  • Kiwi's Blog
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  • Zero One
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  • Robert Hurst
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  • Animan's Blog Of Unusual Objectionalities
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  • That's what she said.
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  • The (hopefully) weekly rant
  • Goochman's Marketplace Blog
  • Marc Oberhäuser's Blog
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  • Bri's House
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  • Chuplayer's Blog
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  • POKEY experiments
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  • Brain droppings...
  • Sandra's blog
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  • Maybe its a Terrible Tragedy
  • Guru Meditation
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  • The 12 Turn Program: Board Game Addiction and You
  • Tezz's projects blog
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  • Whoopdeedoo
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  • ¡Viva Atari!
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  • The hunt for the PAL Heavy Sixer
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  • HSC Experience
  • people to fix atari Blog
  • Gronka's Blog
  • Joey Z's Atari Projects
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  • My Ideas/Rants
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  • The Golden Age Arcade Historian
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  • Cool 'n' Crispy: The Blog of Iceberg_Lettuce
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  • Bergum's Thoughts Blog
  • marminer's Blog
  • BubsyFan101 n CO's Pile Of Game Picks
  • I like to rant.
  • Cleaning up my 2600
  • AnimaInCorpore's Blog
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  • Coleco Pacman Simulator (CPMS)
  • ianoid's Blog
  • HLO projects
  • Retro Junky Garage
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  • VVHQ
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  • Synthpop Universe
  • Atari 5200 Joystick Controllers
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  • eshu's blog
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  • Bio's Blog of Randomness
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  • Paul Lay's Blog
  • Make Atari 2600 games w/o programming!
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  • Atari 2600 game maps
  • Crazy Climber Metal
  • Keith Makes Games
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  • Msp Cheats Tips And Techniques To Create You A Better Gamer
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  • bow830
  • Gernots A500 game reviews
  • Byte's Blog
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  • Zsuttle's gaming adventures
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  • TWO PRINTERS ONE ADAM
  • Atari Jaguar Game Mascots
  • Learning fbForth 2.0
  • splendidnut's Blog
  • The Atari Jaguar Game by Game Podcast
  • Syzygy's Story Blog
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  • XDK.development present Microsoft Xbox One Development
  • Song I Wake Up To
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  • My blog of stuff and things
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  • Coleco Mini
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  • Atari 2600JS
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  • GG's Game Dev, Homebrew Review, Etc. Log
  • dazza's arcade machine games
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  1. Hi, some years ago I gave a promise to an ABBUC member to make a video-out solution for his Atari 400 without the need of changing parts, scratching conducting paths or any other destructive mod to his Atari 400. He´s a real "hardcore" collector with no way in give-and-take regarding this point. After tinkering around with an "add-on" PCB for the GTIA socket I failed, because there´s not enough space. Of course - from a collector´s view - it´s a No-Go to remove the metal cabinet, so I decide to create a complete new CPU board with the needed components directly on it. I´ve reached the goal by 99%. A very little bit of soldering is required and the need to drill one hole into the metal assembly - the shielded video cable needs a place to break out, there´s no way else than making a new 5 mm hole somehwere in the upper part of the metal assembly. So here´s my solution: The Super Color CPU Card for Atari 400 and Atari 800 systems This PCB is a complete replacement for the original CPU card in any Atari 400 or 800 using PAL or NTSC. This PCB works NOT with SECAM. You are able to use both CPU-types found in the Atari 400 and Atari 800 series, the standard 6502B MOS CPU (without HALT signal) and the Atari-specialized version 6502C, also called "Sally". Chips (CPU, ANTIC and CTIA or GTIA) are not included and must be pulled of the built-in Atari CPU card. But they are always in sockets, so it´s easy. Circuitry on this PCB is nearly 100% the same like at the genuine Atari CPU card with some changes to make it possible to use both CPU types. You only need to set five jumpers to select the desired CPU type. Addiitonal the PAL color clock generation circuit is onboard for PAL systems. There´s a seperate jumper to select PAL or NTSC - this jumper connects the GTIA "PALC" pin to either the output of the PAL color clock generator or directly to 3,57 MHz system clock (NTSC). Only for clarifying this: You can´t just switch the jumper and make a NTSC system to a PAL computer or vice versa. At least you´ve to change ANTIC, GTIA and of course the system clock crystal at the mainboard At least a third jumper block (not existing an the prototype shown on the picture above) enables/disables the 75 Ohm termination resistors for Luma, Chrominance or CVBS output. This setting must be tested depending on the connected monitor or television - sometimes the picture quality is better with, sometimes without termination resistors. The video out solution is based on the Atari 800 XL video circuitry without mixing Luma and Chroma together. Of course the well-known mods are already integrated. The final signals are amplified and filtered by the Fairchild FMS6410 VideoAmp. This chip also generates the CVBS signal. So you can use either S-Video (Y/C) for best picture quality or CVBS for common monitors and televisions which doesn´t accept S-Video (Y/C) input. Please notice: This video solution can´t performing magic. I test it on different computer monitors and televisions. The best performance - as ever in every setting with old computers - will be shown on CRT (tube) monitors or televisions. Of course for Atari 400 owners EVERYTHING is better than the antenna (RF) output, but don´t expect a higher quality than the regular Atari 800 S-video output. It might be better, but I can´t promise. That´s impossible by the dozens of different monitors, cables, T.V. systems and so on. Scope of delivery One PCB "Super Color CPU Card" for Atari 400 or Atari 800 computers, capable using 6502B or 6502C CPU, runs on PAL or NTSC systems A manual (illustrated installation instructions) in german and english (sent by email with shipping out notice) One DIN connector 5 pin to lead out the video signals (optional for Atari 800 users) approx 50 cm shielded cable for video out approx 50 cm shielded cable for internal audio connection (optional for Atari 800 users) I offer two versions of the PCB "Standard" = Full populated (except Atari custom chips) PCB, standard HASL surface (as shown in the picture above) "Gold" = Full populated (except Atari custom chips) PCB, gold-finished (ENIG) surface (like my Sys-Check and many other solutions) The ENIG (gold-finished) surface is more rugged against rust and fouling. Because the naked PCB price doubles when choosing ENIG at this board size, I offer two versions. Prices One "Standard" PCB = 48 Euros each One "Gold" PCB = 59 Euros each Registered and insured shipping 1 or 2 piece(s) worldwide = 9 Euros Registered and insured shipping 3 or 4 pieces worldwide = 12 Euros More than 4 pieces or specialized = please ask Info: After some bad experiences with some postal services I only ship insured now. Time schedule I will collect orders and payments until the end of January, the 22.th 2017 (GMT) At the end of January I will order the parts and PCBs Assembling and shipping out can take up to 6 weeks, because there´s no holidays for me, assembling will be done in my spare time Depending on shipping time you will get your PCB(s) in March or April 2017 - This is the worst case, but I won´t promise things I can´t realize. So this is a safe suggestion. First payment, first serve: I can´t make all PCBs at one time, so small batches will be made. Date & Time of cleared payment sets the order of shipping out Please sent me a PM (personal message) or leave a post in this thread. You will get an answer soon. Practical hints for Atari 400 users The Atari 400 hasn´t any S-Video/CVBS output and no standard monitor jack, just an antenna (RF) cable. This cable is replaceable, so the best way is to remove the whole cable. You can use the hole in the case where the antenna cable was now for the new video out cable. At the end a standard DIN 5 pin connector coupling is applied. You can use ANY standard CVBS or S-Video cable made for any Atari XL or XE (or the Atari 800) to connect your Atari 400 to a monitor or television. The sound signal must be clamped from the main PCB. Nothing is destructive, only two solder drops at the mainboard of your Atari 400 must be made and one hole with ~5 mm diameter must be drilled in the metal cage for leading the video cable out. Practical hints for Atari 800 users Remark: The Atari 800 has already a quite good video output (S-Video). The CVBS output ranges something in the middle of existing video solutions. The need of my Super Color CPU card isn´t really mandatory for an Atari 800 owner, but it CAN improve video quality. Of course without any promises. I repeat that to make this point of view clear for all interests. The first option is to go ahead like the Atari 400 user. Replace the antenna cable with the new video cable. The existing monitor connector is always out of function when replacing the Atari CPU card with my Super Color CPU Card. Second option for Atari 800 users is to use the existing monitor jack with the new Chroma, Luma and CVBS signal. For this purpose the best way is to bend away the three connections from the mainboard to the power-PCB transmitting these three signals. This is reversible, non-destructive and needs only four additional drops of solder at the monitor jack. The manual will show how to do and also point at the junctions where to grab the audio signal, too. If you want, the external monitor DIN 5 pin coupling connector is already soldered. Leave your wish with your order, otherwise I will ask when confiming your payment. Any questions? Feel free to ask Jurgen
  2. Do you have 3rd party carts that won't fit properly into your 7800 or 2600? I've personally experienced on a few of my systems; this is why I created the "Lock-On 2600", the Tight Cart Fix for 2600 games. No modding needed, just attach the Lock-On 2600 to your cart and plug it into your system. It couldn't be easier! This has been tested with many systems and the compatibility is stellar, see all the reviews in this very thread! Updates: 03/26/2022: The items from Winz were returned and the hardware is being reused, sadly the 3D prints are not in a usable state and will be recycled. I received the shipment of 100 circuit boards and 100 card edge connectors, this means I can make a good quantity of these for a while. Extra m3 12mm screws have been ordered, should be here in the next week. Each cart takes 3 screws for stability. @Albert has the test unit, hopefully no issues arise. 03/19/2022: A new version was created, now v3. Each case now includes clips on the front to help remedy separation and some side grips for easier removal. https://twitter.com/ChrisKewlTV/status/1505309243502649349 The Lock-On 2600 will no longer be sold by @winz_mod. The remaining stock will be sent back to me. Once the stock is returned they will be rebuilt and sent to @Albert for the AtariAge's store. 07/28/2020: Round 3 carts have been shipped out by @winz_mod. Everyone should've received a DM on tracking. If you haven't please let me know. We are still evaluating our options on placing stock in the AtariAge store. 07/23/2020: Round 3 carts are being sent to @winz_mod , they should be there on Monday. Then it'll take another week to prepare for shipment. Expect these to go out around the first week of August. I will send tracking numbers once we are ready for that I do apologize for being a week late, I fractured a bone in my foot. Everything is good now We are evaluating our options on further releases. One option we are considering is placing them on the AtariAge store. 06/30/2020: Round 2 carts will be shipped out today. Everyone should have a tracking number. Round 3 carts are being 3D printed as we speak. @winz_mod has ordered more stuff to make sure we can accommodate everyone in Round 3. Expect these to be ready around July 15th. 06/26/2020: Round 2 carts were shipped to Winz. There are 10 more carts we are sending. Each cart was tested twice before being sent out. People who requested, in order, are being contacted to see if they still wish their order fulfilled. Carts are the v2 version so they are a bit slimmer. Due to this we had to use some glue with the screws used to connect the top and bottom parts. We also tried a new method of bonding the shells to the 3D printer bed so the back logo may seem a bit cloudy. A bit of high-grit wet sandpaper to polish should give you a nice clean finish if desired. 06/21/2020: Round 1 shipments are all delivered but one, the USPS machine ate it. So we owe a lucky person a new cart. Speaking of new carts, take a look at the v2 case. Slimmer and with logos! https://twitter.com/ChrisKewlTV/status/1274581215119638529 The new PCBs should arrive next week and they are quite pretty as well. I will be showcasing those when I have them in hand. 06/10/2020: Round 1 shipments are going out today being shipped from Brooklyn by @winz_mod. Tracking numbers will be given once available. Round 2 boards have been ordered and should arrive by the end of the month. 06/03/2020: We are out of stock but we have ordered more. @winz_mod is waiting for the card edge connectors and shells so he can build them and ship them out. Demos: Atari 7800: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCnQamrC4s4 Atari 2600 Light Sixer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbDyTvMgnGk Contact: Twitter: https://www.twitter.com/ChrisKewlTV
  3. Hi everyone, I got this drive a couple of days ago, I always open them up before powering them up, and this one has a loose wire (the white one, in the second photo). I'm pretty sure it's part of a switch+light front panel assembly, and is part of the write-protect circuit, but I have no idea where it should go/be re-attached to. It comes from the J11 pins (on the underside of the PCB), which is in the schematic on Page 5-4 of the 1050 FSM (right page, bottom left corner of https://archive.org/details/1050FSMRebuiltAKH/page/n63/mode/2up). Can anyone take a stab at where I should try and reattach it? The wiring is a bit ropey, and it kind of looks like the wires are shorting on the underside anyway, though I'm not sure if the circuit has been altered as it's also connected to a resistor at the front of the PCB near the power switch (which has also seen better days). I'm quite reluctant to power it up as is, but I'm also a bit out of my depth on how to fix it. Incidentally, the advert (on Ebay, from a seller in Belgium) showed it working/powered up. Also guessing it's a Happy clone board, but waiting to fix the wire before testing it. Any help would be appreciated!
  4. Hi all. Happy new year! For the past ten years or so, I have been fixing Atari consoles and often I install AV mods as part of the process. At the beginning I was using a simple amplifier as many projects on the internet do, but I was not very happy with the video quality, so I quickly moved to the digital buffer approach. As I convert a far number of consoles every year, from time to time I will run out of PCBs and, instead of just re-ordering the same design, I try to improve it and make it easier to install, better video and audio quality, etc... Around 2018 I joined my AV design with my game pause mod: Here are some examples of my previous mods: The last PCB on the right is the one I used until mid last year. There were a few things I liked about it: It had AV and pause integrated, so it was easier to install than two separate mods There was no need to modify the console case for the AV cable The pause was controlled by the COLOR switch, so no extra switch installation The pause could be completely deactivated and the COLOR button could be used to switch the game to BW It could be mounted directly on top of the TIA and the labels on the pins made it easier to know which pins to connect for NTSC and PAL consoles. The connections were made straight down which avoided making wrong connections As it was time to order PCBs again, I started working on a new design to include some features I collected on my wish list: An easier way to configure the board for NTSC or PAL. On the last board I made, a resistor network for this, which meant I needed to decide if I wanted it to be used for NTSC or PAL as I built the mod and it was not possible to change it afterwards Gemini support. As the Gemini has a different TIA, I had to reroute the connections manually, which made the installation much more complicated and error prone An LED indicator for the pause state Better connections for the AV cable A better solution for the audio and video chaos while the game is paused. The old board had addressed a lot of the problem, but that was a lot of room for improvement So I came up with the design above which has a single jumper to configure PAL, NTSC and Genesis and the legends next to the pins show which TIA pins should be connected for each console type. This makes it easier to install the mod and also change the console type after the board was build. The other features are also included: 2600Mod_en.mov This is how it looks like installed in a Gemini: So far I have converted a couple of dozens of PAL, NTSC and Gemini consoles with this new mod and I am quite happy with the result. This time I ordered a larger number of PCBs though, so if anyone would like get one of these mods, I will soon put them on eBay for 29€, or you can pm me here. Cheers.
  5. Hello all, I'm looking to modify my Hyperkin Ranger controller to make it fully compatible with all my 7800 games. It looks like all the pins are in use already. Can anyone give any suggestions on how to add a second fire button?
  6. Hi, I tried some simple composite video mods for my Atari 2600 with terrible results: Blurry image, ghosting, dark image, etc. Then I designed my own mod and it works good enough for me. I wanted to share it with all who want to give a try. First you need to remove some components from the board. I prefer to remove all unused components and store them. But if you are more conservative then remove the following components only Also, you need to remove or disconnect the "RF Modulator Module" and built the Video Amplifier. I designed two simple video amplifiers: The first is a simple one stage amplifier. This circuit Works good but due to the limited gain of only one amplification stage, there is some limitation in the brightness of the image. Most people will not notice it, but I wanted to ensure the best quality possible keeping it simple. The second is a two stage amplifier. This is still a very simple circuit with flat gain up to 4.2MHz (Composite video band width) which ensures brightness and color preservation with minimun distortion. Use the 5K trimmer to adjust the gain (brigthness) of the signal. Teorically you will have 0dB or unity gain with 1577Ohm. This is the Bode plot of my LTSpice simulation of the circuit This is the board with the circuit installed And finally this is the results: Video on a CRT TV Video on a LED TV
  7. I shared this in my regular retro-gaming discord and someone suggested I post it here... I recently picked up a 2600 Junior for a tenner from ConsoleMad; price reduced because the cartridge interlock tabs were broken. As I researched various fixes for this I noticed all the fixes involved butchering the case in some way. I know a lot of people aren't bothered by that kind of thing but I like to preserve all the hardware I own in as close to original condition as possible - so I came up with this solution. It's just a small 3D printed plate that sits on top of the cartridge slot and releases the mechanism as the original, fragile, tabs would have done. I've stuck it down with double-sided tape so it's completely reversible. I've tested it with Combat, Warlords, Pac-Man, and Breakout and they all work perfectly.
  8. Hi, ever since I bought a donor board to repair my 600xl with, I've had a spare, perfectly good Pokey chip just lying around. I'm thinking of using it for a stereo mod, but I can't seem to find where to purchase a stereo pokey board. Does anyone know where I can get one?
  9. Hello! I'm looking for someone to do an AV composite mod for an Atari 7800. I already have the mod for it (see picture), but I don't know how to install it myself. Guessing the console could use a recap and all the good maintenance type of stuff one would do for aging hardware. Additionally, paddle controllers do not seem to work on this console when playing 2600 paddle based games. I would like for that issue to get fixed, as well. Otherwise, I've not really experienced any issues with the console. Plays 7800 games fine and most 2600 games (a few Activision games won't boot up, but think that's expected). If there are recommendations on who to contact or if you're interested in doing the work, please let me know! Thanks ahead of time!
  10. Hey peeps. I suddenly became interested in gaming options with NEC. I want to.be able to play Cd games and play foreign and US hu-cards. I also want to play them on my 4k tv. What do I look for without breaking the bank? (lol)
  11. Honest question: I've got a PAL Jaguar I bought in the UK years ago, which of course was set to 50hz. I finally decided it was time to look at modding it to 60hz, which I've always avoided because I didn't want to cut the case and add the switch most tutorials discuss. I didn't realise until now that the significant part of the mod is whether R140 bridges two points on the underside of the board, and the switch only acts to connect/disconnect those points. So I simply took R140 off the board, and now I have my 60hz Jaguar. Which leaves me with the question: are there good reasons to add the switch in the first place, good reasons to switch back to 50hz? Should I truly want to cut the case to install a switch? I like to keep as close to factory as possible.
  12. Obliterator - Amiga 4 Channel. My Version Of The Obliterator in game Theme on a Classic Amiga 500+
  13. Morning all, I’m very close to getting my original Magnavox Odyssey console back to life – I’ve Frankenstein’d together a working power solution from an Atari 2600 after-market power adapter, with a travel adapter and a 3.5mm-to-2.5mm tip adapter. I also got a multicard from @Boojakascha and @Mikebloke (thanks guys ), and got a handle for it from Laserbear The only remaining problem is the video cable. I mentioned previously in this post that original Odyssey RF cables are rarely listed for standalone eBay sales, and looking for other Odyssey pong consoles (100, 200 etc) with Magnavox’s weird proprietary RF connector hasn’t brought me any luck either. So I think the most practical solution would be to solder a new video cable to the back of the console’s main board, and that this cable will probably need to be at least 7 feet long. Question 1 (RF or composite?): In this video (around the 54min20sec mark) That Tim Guy from YouTube, soldered video and ground directly to the console's motherboard but it's not clear (to me anyway) exactly what cable he's using - in the most recent comment at the top of his comments section, he refers to the cable as carrying a composite video signal. And I guess in theory it's possible that the console could maybe generate composite video on the board, and the original external RF box turned it back to RF? But I'm a little bit confused by this as 1) I had always assumed a stock 1972 Odyssey only outputted RF, 2) I thought you could need something like @Boojakascha's mod board to output composite, and 3) later in the video, he appears to de-modulate the signal through a VCR to get to the CRT, which seems to suggest that the console itself is outputting RF. It's not going to make a huge difference to my setup - the Odyssey doesn't output sound, so either way, I'm going to be running a single cable with either an RCA or a coax connector. I have a well-shielded 7 foot RF video coaxial cable from Blue Jeans Cables (Belden 1505A) that I'm not using at the moment - does anyone know if this would be a good cable to use? If so, I could remove one of the connectors, and solder it to the two points on the board, as per the video. Question 2 (Safety) The video from That Tim Guy is quite long, but the relevant part where he displays the cable solution is only from 52m50s to 54m40s I don't know very much about soldering, and this would be the first mod I've tried myself, but I'm a little bit apprehensive because it seems like this should be more complicated than what's presented in the video (which shows that it's as simple as soldering two wires). It seems to me that there should usually be a little more to it than this. If he is pulling the video signal in this way and the youtube video isn't skipping over anything, does anyone have any opinion on whether wiring it directly in this way is creating a circuit that is safe, and not going to damage the console?
  14. Hello, I hope you can help! I have installed an s-video mod board from here to my pal, black label Atari jr. When I boot a game the picture looks clean and bright for about 12 seconds, before turning very dim and losing colour. The game plays fine, and there is no issues with sound, just really dark after 12 seconds. So far I have checked all my soldering for continuity, pins 9 and 13 are lifted, the bottom of the mod board is taped, and there are no visual signs of bad capacitors (my initial thoughts). Any ideas what could be going wrong or what I should check next?
  15. Here is Car Wars with graphics modified. Look out for futuristic hover cars ! Edit. Upload was not available for whatever reason. carwarsg.modg.bin
  16. So far, I've repaired another Mitsumi keyboard. I have to say, it would not work until I completely separated the entire membrane from the board (pix and videos takes). It was a success. I've completed Shift838's reset button mod. I'm a little more than halfway through Tursi's internal 32k 2 chip mod. 2 chips and a gazillion freaking solder points with wires. Certainly well beyond my skill level but I'm doing the best I can with what I have. Hope it works by the time I'm done. May not be tonight, maybe tomorrow. But everything is fully documented with pics and videos. so we'll see how well those came out also. Just starting this long thread to keep it all neat and tidy.and in one place. I'll be creating pdfs as well. For now, I'll be posting random pics here once in a while. https://www.facebook.com/SExmortus/posts/10206716095292992
  17. I recently (and belatedly) jumped on the mini console bandwagon and managed to pick up an Atari Flashback X in good condition, and I find it rather charming. I've tinkered around some of the firmware mods here on the forum, of course. And now it's got me thinking. Has anyone ever attempted to take an original model Atari Flashback (the one modeled after the 7800), replace the guts of it with something newer (say, the FBX board or a retropi) and flash some new games on it to make it a proper 7800 mini? Unfortunately, I have no experience in such mod projects myself, just a hairbrained idea that I thought I'd toss around amongst likeminded people and brainstorm how to go about such a project. I did manage to grab a FB1 off of ebay for dirt cheap. At the very least, I might see how hard it is to repaint it to look like a 7800 mini. I'll update this thread if I make any progress.
  18. Hello all Signed up here to ask for help regarding RGB output for G7000 / G7400. In short, I need to record a bunch of videos of various Videopac games for my project 8bitmemoirs.com For this reason, one of my mates have modded my G7000 to have RGB output, but it's displaying wrong colours. I found a video on YouTube demonstrating the exact same problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ct6Wv3eyPzM#t=2m20s Notice the red and blue is way too dark. That's not how the colours are supposed to look in that game ("Race"). So for a short while I gave up on RGB and asked my mate to instead put in a composite mod, which he did, and it works but the picture is just as awful as an RF signal. Therefor I'm back to hunting a good RGB solution signal now. So I have 3 questions for you all: 1) Does anyone know why the colours are too dark with an RGB mod for G7000? Is there anything we can do about it? 2) Is the RGB output better on the G7400? And is it easy to add an RGB mod to the G7400 that doesn't come with one pre-installed? 3) Are there anyone here who has a spare G7400 with RGB output they'd be interesting in selling? Some pictures demonstrating my problem: http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?88818-Help-requested-for-RGB-output-for-Philips-G7000-Videopac Thanks!
  19. Select all the different memory configurations for machines you own (multiple selections possible). Include any plug-and-play devices used to boost memory too. I've probably missed a few esoteric upgrades. If you don't see yours, just pick the next lower amount on the list. I know there are upgrades far above 1088K, but memory above 1088K is pretty meaningless at this point -- other than bragging rights. If you have something that isn't mentioned and you want to talk (or brag) about it, go ahead and post. You can also post about your specific memory upgrade type if you like (i.e. Rambo 256K, etc.).
  20. I'm looking for someone in the US who can install the RGB Tim worthington mod with component output in my light 4 switch Atari 2600 system.
  21. Just wondering - the technology used for Adventure was simple enough that just about any 8-bit home computer or newer should be capable of emulating it. I'm wondering if anyone has done it in BASIC (maybe compiled, or with some minor ML routines, or using some BASIC expansion library, for more speed etc.) ? It would be cool to have such a code base to work with, making it easy to modify and create custom adventures...
  22. The Atari Lynx 1-UP from: starforcepi.wordpress.com What’s the greatest handheld of the 1980s and 1990s? Why, the 16-bit arcade juggernaut named Atari Lynx, of course! I was a kid when the original Lynx 1 came out for us here in the old country in 1990, and was blown away. The Game Boy was a monochrome moron in comparison, and the Game Gear was all about converting Mega Drive and Master System games to pocket version – the Lynx, with its hardware-driven zooming and distortion of sprites, was going for Arcade experiences. BOOYA! Sadly, as with everthing Atari, this too turned to dust. BUT, fast-forward to 2018 and look at the love for this loveable giant! So much so, that McWill, a name you must’ve heard of by now, released one of the most impressive upgrades for a system I’ve ever seen – LCD replacement for the waning washed-out Lynx screen, with VGA output. The VGA output was a great addition, but the way I’ve seen people utilize it online seemed rather silly to me; you would have to use the Lynx as the controller when playing on the VGA. No sir, I don’t like it. So I decided to use the spacious room behind the screen to build an interface to: 1) securely place the Lynx on a stand; 2) output VGA; 3) connect a standard DB9 compatible controller (Mega Drive, Master System, Atari). It’s a tight squeeze, but the VGA, Controller port and Stand all fit neatly in the small 3x4cm interface window. This was an absolute pleasure to build, everything went smooth and simple, all the measurements were direct hits, hell even the stand only took me 10 minutes to design (8 hours to print, but hey). So let’s see it in full VGA action: It’s perhaps the best handheld to consolize: the GameGear has most games on Master System or Mega Drive, the GameBoy looks rather silly and clunky on a monitor, and TurboExpress is pointless, because it’s a 1-to-1 conversion of the actual console. I am glad I did it, I hope you will too, and stop placing those ugly connectors on the top of your handheld. Building the Lynx 1-UPI bought a pristine looking junked Lynx 1 for 20 euros – seemed a good place to start, let’s see if we can bring it alive! I replaced all the capacitors, power input socket, MOSFET, but finally it was the two 3906 transistors that were the issue. In order to do these replacements, you need a fine-point soldering iron and some tweezers, but everything on the board is quite spacious, so there’s no mistaking what’s what. This part is cheap: 7 dollars on console5.com. They have links and tutorials on that site, very complete. I also bought the McWill for 120 dollars, I was gonna do this mod regardless if this particular system was junked. So far everything together cost me ~150 dollars. After bringing the console back to live, it was time for McWillification! I followed the 1 page diagram that came with it, but it’s a little information dense, so I followed the following video instead: This worked better than I could have ever imagined, I know everyone says they’re gobsmacked when they see the difference, but it really is very true – I get why it’s such an expensive mod now. I was gonna leave it with that, honestly that’s just everything one could ever want from an upgrade… but, of course, me being the way I am, things escalated. You see, the mod came with the VGA socket, and I saw how people were placing these at the top of their handhelds, and you know what – it looked ugly. I want the facade of the handheld to be untouched. While I was adding the McWill mod I noticed the enormous space left behind the screen, which is when I had the idea: make the Lynx into a hybrid, with the connector ports at the back with a stand for console gaming via VGA, and all the ports hidden behing a minimal cover during handheld gaming. I first ordered DB9 sockets for a controller, and placed this together with the VGA socket on the inside of the battery cover. I made a little window in the battery cover, 3D printed a frame and cover for the ports, and there we have our interface. For the controller ports I had to solder 6 wires on the button pads of the Lynx PCB. Luckily most of these have soldered extension traces, so you can avoid blocking the normal button-to-pad press, but for two I had to solder directly onto the pad: be mindfull to be as flat as possible. Then we wire up the VGA socket to the pads on the McWill screen, this is shown in the accompanied diagram of the screen. We then place the DB9 and VGA socket in the space between the batteries, where the little light tube of the old screen sat (ignore the loose wires, they’re from the battery input, I cut them for ease of access). In the left picture, top connector is the VGA socket you can see running to the McWill screen. The lower connector go to the front of the PCB to the button pads. When assembled the VGA socket is lower, and DB9 is upper. Next to these I added screw connectors, so that I may fix the system to a stand, as shown in the next pictures: Unlike the Nintendo Snack Pack, this was a joy to make. I did it to unwind and relax, I didn’t want to build something from the ground up, but this just gave enough inspiration to just slightly 1-up it. The Lynx Stand and little VGA cover in particular really clean the mod up nicely, and makes this thing into a fully consolized system. I must admit though, I’ve been mostly playing it with the stand and controller via the McWill screen, not via VGA, but hey, it’s there. Finally, it all cost me a substantial 150 euro, but it was worth it. The Atari Lynx is a very strange and powerful handheld, spanning 7 years with 72 games, it’s still enjoying new homebrew releases every year, with a small but dedicated following. I’m very happy to be one of them. Upgrades: Full capacitor replacement MOSFET replacement 3906 Transistor replacement Power input socket replacement McWill Screen upgrade VGA output port DB9 input port Custom interface window & stand
  23. Does it increase the value of an Intellivision if you composite mod it? Or do people prefer it kept in it's original condition? I just got a bunch of old Intellivision 1s from a second hand store and I'm wondering if composite modding them would increase or decrease their value.
  24. Hey everyone, I was wondering if anyone has done any fancy mods to their ST's to change the way they look. My Atari ST had cracks all over the plastic which I fixed with Epoxy, but this still left it looking damaged. So I decided to get some vinyl wrap and turn it into a little DIY project. I've attached a WIP photo below, still a long way to go. Anyway, I'd love to see what others have done with their ST's and to hear about how their project went on.
  25. I recently bought and installed a ColecoVision AV mod kit from Console5. It's a pretty easy solder job, everything on my end soldering has been hunky dory. No accidental bridgings, no cold solder joints, pretty as a picture. Turn it on, looks fine to start, but then slowly the picture dims until a scrolling, dim, fuzzy image. I suspect something to be wrong with maybe my power supply, but just to be sure, I hook it up using the normal RF and turn it on. I still had it on the composite input, and lo and behold, I get a beautiful, stable image! I unplugged the RF cable and immediately the picture turned to a dim mess. Plugged it back in, composite video looked great. What the hell is going on here? (Below is the wiring diagram for this mod)
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