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  1. Atari Jaguar motherboard stock image. Hi i picked up this NTSC Jag a while back for a really good price. It was sold as parts. It arrived but had no cables or games to test it with. I then got straight to ordering and installing the parts for it. I assumed it was the typical no power fault. I ordered and replaced the Caps, Replacement custom Bios socketed, Power Button as it was missing a power button, looks like somebody worked on this before. All of that was ordered from Console5 and installed. Then i ordered and replaced the Reg1 Sound chip and the U38 Regulator Chip commonly known to fail. I then installed the 50/60hz switch mod, a very simple mod and did the diode mod to protect the console from reverse polarity, also a basic mod. I then ordered the PSU 9v 2amps, a game Iron Solder mint in box, a boxed controller, RGB cables from Retro GameCables. I was ready to test and enjoy playing on this machine. I powered it on and no video signal, no audio. Tried it directly through the tv and nothing, no signal. I tried it through the OSSC and same thing, no sync, almost as if it wasn’t even turned on even though the Led is brightly lit. I then realised this is more complicated then i thought. I tried switching to RF and it made no difference. I undid the Diode mod, it made no difference. I went over my caps i broke two traces during the recapping process but fixed it right after i originally replaced those caps. I reflowed and tested those damaged traces and checked for other damaged traces with my multimeter, and i did not find any cut traces. I checked whether the caps were in the right place and everything was installed in the right place, in the right polarity. I reflowed the cart connector, bios, Reg1 and U38 chips and it made no difference, socketed the old bios back in and nothing. I cleaned the motherboard again with ipa 99% making sure i get the cart and av connector cleaned properly with my qtips and a soft pcb brush and nothing. I then tried to tap out the audio from the RF connections using my headphone jack shorted with ground and i only get a slight puffy sound. I lastly decided to put my finger on the CPU chip and that runs warm. The Graphics chip and that pretty much runs hot, is that normal? Overall i can’t figure out what’s wrong with this Jaguar and what the cause of it’s fault is. Can anyone help me figure this out? It’s sad coming across a fault like this on a rare system. I presume the Graphics chip is dead in this machine or hopefully maybe the video encoder chip, ram, missing parts maybe, not sure. I order a replacement power inductor. 120uh/mh and will see if that fixes it when it arrives.
  2. I'm starting this thread as a means to hopefully promote some F18A development, answer specific questions about programming the F18A, and finally as place to look for links to updated documentation and eventually firmware updates. This first post will always have the latest documents and updates attached, so there is no need to go digging through the thread to find the most recent information. I also hope it will contain questions, answers, and code examples. I would like to keep this thread technical and on-topic, so if you have other general F18A questions or comments, please start a new thread or use the other existing F18A thread. * Documentation: On-going. This is something I hope to complete, but until then Rasmus has collected many of the F18A programming posts from the forum and created PDF of them (thank you Rasmus!) See the files attached to this thread, and please ask F18A technical questions in this thread. The main F18A webpage (http://codehackcreate.com/archives/30) has the main feature list, as well as an initial post to getting started with programming the F18A. As I add documentation, I will post it on the website first, then make an update here to let anyone interested know there is something new. * Register Use Spreadsheet: Libre Office / Open Office .ods format. This is the primary spreadsheet I used while developing the F18A, and all functionality was documented in the spreadsheet first, then converted into HDL. That means the spreadsheet is always up to date with respect to the F18A's functionality. While some of the F18A's features require more documentation to use, much of the functionality is very self explanatory and can be used just by looking at the spreadsheet and reading the notes. For example, it does not take much to guessing to figure out what the "horizontal scroll register" does. ************* COMPATIBILITY ************* Pin-compatible replacement for the TMS9918A, 9928, 9929, and TMS9118 Video Data Processors. The F18A has been tested in the following systems: TI-99/4A Home Computer ColecoVison Game Console* ColecoVision ADAM Computer# Toshiba HX-10 MSX1 Computer Toshiba Pasopia-IQ MSX1 Computer JVC Victor HC-7 MSX1 Computer Yamaha CX5M MSX1 [email protected] SpectraVideo 328 Computer*@ Tomy Tutor Computer*@ SEGA SG-1000 Game Console SEGA SC-1000II (replaced a TMS9118 VDP) Telegames Personal Arcade Powertran Cortex Computer * Note1: These systems are known to have the original VDP soldered directly to the system circuit board and will require desoldering and a socket installed. # Note2: The ADAM computer requires an "offset board" to keep the F18A inside the main PCB outline. This is an available option when ordering and F18A. @ Note3: These systems are known to require USR4 jumper removed because the main system uses the CPUCLK output from the VDP as the main system clock. ************************ F18A FIRMWARE Change Log ************************ F18A V1.9 Dec 31, 2018 (CRC: 147A) * Prepare for open source release. * Split up the original "core" to create a top-module for the stand-alone F18A, and a "main core" that can be used as part of a larger SoC. * Fixed the VGA horizontal timing error caused by treating the pixel time as 40ns instead of 39.68ns. Because events were being counted in "pixels", this caused the horizontal sync pulse to be slightly off, and the overall line time to be 32us instead of 31.746us. This error meant each line was around 6.4 pixels too long, and pushed the total frame rate to 59.2Hz. This error was enough to cause games to fail (Pole Position on the 99/4A), and some monitors to not sync properly when run through video converters. The timing error also caused many problems for the PAL ColecoVision. * Removed sprite-linking. This was an unused feature and helped free up FPGA resources to allow the core to better fit in the Spartan-3E 250K. * Removed programmable GROMCLK divisor. Unused feature, free up resources. * Register mode and cd_i inputs to CPU component. V1.8 - Aug 24, 2016 (CRC: F981) * Fixed sprite collision bug where sprite collisions were being incorrectly detected outside of the active display, after line 191 or 239 depending on the line mode. * Added hybrid VR write restriction to mask VR writes to three-bits when the F18A is locked, like the real 9918A does. However, if mode bit M4 is set (80-columns), writes to VRs over VR7 are *ignored* instead of masked to three-bits. This allows various 9938 programs to work (or continue to work), as well as continue to support TurboForth that writes to VRs 0..15 to set up 80-columns (if straight masking was used, VRs 8..15 would over-write VR 0..7). V1.7 - Jan 1, 2016 (CRC: A3B5) * Fixed Bitmap-Layer (BML) display bug * Fixed GPU's PIX instruction to properly calculate BML addresses * Added power-on graphic that shows the current firmware version V1.6 - Apr 26, 2015 (CRC: 40CC) * Removed fixed tile functionality * Removed border scroll limit functionality * Removed banner functionality * Removed host-side 32-bit counter * Removed host-side 32-bit RNG * Removed GPU 32-bit counter * Removed GPU 32-bit RNG * Removed the sprite "disable value" (>F8) in the sprite Y-location when ROW30 is enabled. * Added second tile layer with its own NTBA, h/v page sizes, and h/v scroll regs * Added ECM2/3 pattern table size selections for tiles and sprites. * Added host-side segmented counter with 10ns accuracy. * Added configurable HSYNC and VSYNC GPU triggers. * Added fat-pixel (2x1) with 16-color support to the bitmap layer (BML). * Added 1x1 page scroll support for T40 and T80 modes. * Added option to reset most VDP registers to their power-on values. * Added option to disable Tile Layer 1, which includes GM1, GM2, MCM, T40, and T80. Sprites, the BML, and TL2 are still active and can be enabled/disabled independently. * Added option to allow attribute byte to be fg/bg color select in T40 and T80. * Added per-position tile attribute support. * Added DMA capability to the GPU: 8xx0 - MSB src 8xx1 - LSB src 8xx2 - MSB dst 8xx3 - LSB dst 8xx4 - width 8xx5 - height 8xx6 - stride 8xx7 - 0..5 | !INC/DEC | !COPY/FILL 8xx8 - trigger FILL (active high) will read a single byte at the src address and fill the destination with that byte. src, dst, width, height, and stride are copied to dedicated counters when the DMA is triggered, thus the original values remain unchanged. * Added USR3 jumper to control GROMCLK/CPUCLK output on pin37 to provide support for 9128/29 * Added USR2 jumper to disable/enable simulated scan lines (every other VGA scan line has its color reduced by 50%.) Also controllable via a new VDP register bit. * Added a 5th sprite reporting option instead of reporting the max-sprite, which on the F18A might be different than the original VDP because all 32 sprites can be on a single scan line. * Added a new register (VR51) to limit the maximum sprite processed. This has nothing to do with the number of sprites that can be visible on a scan line, which is controlled by a separate register (VR30). This register is always active and can be used instead of the >D0 byte in the sprite Y-location, and is the only way to limit sprite processing early when ROW30 is enabled. * Changed the GPU interlock so that polling the VDP status register will not cause the GPU to pause. This should greatly increase GPU performance during heavy VDP interrupt polling. * Fixed T80 NTBA two LSbit problem. They are ignored (set to "00") when the F18A is locked to provide compatibility with the 9938 and avoid problem with software that set the two LSbits of the NTBA to other than "11" as the 9938 documentation specifies they should be. This limits the T80 name table to 4K boundaries. When the F18A is unlocked, all 4-bits of the NTBA are used and the T80 name table can be located on 1K boundaries. * Fixed the 5th number update during a scan line. As long as the 5S flag is zero, the 5th number register follows the sprite scanning sequence. Seems to be a transparent latch that follows the input (current sprite being scanned) until latched by the 5S flag. If the status register is being polled and 5S is reset mid frame, then the 5th number begins following the scanned sprites again. This bug is known to have affected Miner49er on the 99/4A. V1.5 - July 2013 Not really a *bug* fix since the problem it corrects exists on the real 9918A, and only has to do with sporadic collision bit reporting during heavy polling of the original 9918A VDP status register. This was discovered while Rasmus was writing Titanium. The 9918A was not designed to have its status register polled which is why it provides an interrupt output. I don't think the original 9918A designers took the hazard into consideration, but I decided to make this correction because it is what the original designers would have done given their preference (and I asked Karl Guttag about it). Thus, the F18A implements what you would consider the "expected behavior", and will work as expected where the original 9918A might not. I did not make this decision lightly. V1.4 - April 2013 Fixed the sprite collision bug and a GPU bug with the divide circuit. The sprite bug is mostly affected by XB when a program uses CALL COINC(ALL). Most assembly games probably don't rely on the collision bit alone for sprites and perform coordinate testing, which is most likely why the bug slipped through all the testing (and I tested with a *lot* of games on a lot of platforms). V1.3 - July 2012 Original release firmware. ******** UPDATING ******** The In-System firmware update is available for 99/4A users. I am very thankful to Rasums and Tursi for their help in making this possible. You can download the F18AUpdate_vXX.zip file below. Detailed instructions are available on my website here: http://codehackcreate.com/archives/418 Alternatively you can update your F18A in any system via a JTAG programming cable. You can purchase a JTAG programming cable for about $59 USD from Digilent: JTAG HS3 programming cable/ This is very inexpensive for a JTAG cable (my Xilinx-brand cable was over $250!), and Digilent makes quality gear. You also need the Xilinx ISE-Webpack tools: http://www.xilinx.com/support/download/index.htm This is a free download from Xilinx, but it is BIG! About 6GB the last time I checked. There is a smaller download that contains just the programming tools called "Lab Tools" and is only about 1G. I'm still looking for a smaller / simpler solution. You will have to create an account (which is free). The primary program you need is called IMPACT and is used to program the FPGA and SPI-flash. Once you get the tools installed, download and unzip the f18a_250k_vXX.zip file. In the zip file you will find the MCS file: f18a_250k_vXX.mcs The .mcs file is used to update the SPI-flash ROM attached to the FPGA. Here are the quick instructions. The term "system" means your 99/4A, ColecoVision, MSX, etc., and "PC" means the modern personal computer you are running the Xilinx tools on. 0. Make sure your system is powered OFF to begin 1. Open your system to get physical access to the F18A 2. Plug the JTAG programmer in to your PC (via USB) and the F18A (via JTAG) 3. Power ON your system 4. Launch the Xilinx IMPACT tool 5. Double-click on "Boundary Scan", then right-click in the main area and select "initialize chain" 6. The FPGA should be detected and show up in the big area. A window will open with device properties, just click "ok" 7. Above the FPGA icon should be a dotted line with "SPI/BPI ?" in it. Right-click on that box and select "Add SPI/BPI Flash..." 8. Navigate to the f18a_250k_vXX.mcs file you extracted from the .zip file and choose "Open" 9. Select "SPI PROM" and "M25P80" from the two drop-down selections and click "OK" 10. The box above the FPGA should now say "FLASH" in it. Right-click the box and select "Program" Once the programming is finished, cycle power on your system and make sure it comes up. ******** Examples ******** Included in the zip file is a demos disk that shows many of the enhanced features of the F18A. The source for all the programs are included. I did not write these programs and I am very thankful to Rasmus and Tursi for contributing them. rasmus_scroll.zip F18A documentation.pdf f18a_register_use.zip F18A_V19.zip
  3. Hey guys. I was told you guys are the best place to get help, so Im here asking for it. I have a 5200 with UAV and S video installed. It did not come with a power supply. I went to my local retro gaming store for one. I plugged it in and the red light on the console lit up dimly a few times than went off. I brought the whole system and power supply back to the store. They tried another one. No dice. Longer story short, they sold me an AC Atari computer power supply, not one for the 5200. I have no idea where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  4. I'm looking for someone in the US who can install the RGB Tim worthington mod with component output in my light 4 switch Atari 2600 system.
  5. Hey everyone, I was wondering if anyone has done any fancy mods to their ST's to change the way they look. My Atari ST had cracks all over the plastic which I fixed with Epoxy, but this still left it looking damaged. So I decided to get some vinyl wrap and turn it into a little DIY project. I've attached a WIP photo below, still a long way to go. Anyway, I'd love to see what others have done with their ST's and to hear about how their project went on.
  6. Just wondering - the technology used for Adventure was simple enough that just about any 8-bit home computer or newer should be capable of emulating it. I'm wondering if anyone has done it in BASIC (maybe compiled, or with some minor ML routines, or using some BASIC expansion library, for more speed etc.) ? It would be cool to have such a code base to work with, making it easy to modify and create custom adventures...
  7. Good evening, everyone, I've been wondering, especially since Dropcheck has started inquiring about the Atari's PBI, what the advantages and disadvantages are between the PBI and the cartridge interface itself? What types of devices are best suited for one I/O platform over the other? I imagine from a modding perspective, a cartridge-based mod would have a much broader usability factor since not every Atari 8-bit has a PBI interface— but every Atari DOES have a cartridge port! For me, the primary drawback to these cartridge-based mods is that you only get to have one mod in play at a time. While there are a few pass-thru mods, the reality is that I don't see my utilizing the USB cartridge, the Bluetooth cartridge, and my SpartaDOSX cartridge with MacRorie's R-Time8 cartridge all in a single session, even though that would be something I totally seem myself utilizing. Yet all of these could be in simultaneous use, should someone develop an interface along the lines of the 1090, where the USB cartridge would become a PBI card-based solution, as would the Bluetooth cartridge— both operating through the PBI lines. And wouldn't it be convenient to be able to set something like the RapidUS to card-based, as well? However, with the 65/130XE and their ECI port, it seems like any 1090-like expansion solution would need to support a cartridge port. Anyhoo, I was just wondering what the technical advantages and disadvantages were between the PBI and the cartridge interface insofar as mod development is concerned...? Submitted for your perusal and consideration, Tim
  8. I recently bought my first 2600 ever the other day! (I had it's competitor, Intellivision, when I was a kid.) I have a question, though: What's currently the highest quality AV mod commonly available *right now*? My Google-Fu only turns up confusing tidbits about mods that aren't available anymore, ones 'coming soon' but not released, schematic-only things, etc. I'm thinking people with your expertise who live the Atari life every day will have a more comprehensive answer. For what it's worth, I'm looking for something that's prebuilt and ready to wire in to my 4 switch woody model, best quality available, and that's for sale currently. What would you folks recommend?
  9. Refurbished and Composite modded console with 2 controllers with ball knobs and straightened cords and original power supply $199 + shipping Set of black controllers refurbished with ball knobs and straightened cords $60 + shipping Set of Tan (Adam controllers) with ball knobs and straightened cords $50 + shipping. Thank You AtariAge for over 7 years of ColecoVision mods! I've modded over 500 ColecoVision consoles and over 1200 controllers. Feel free to contact via messenger if your looking for any ColecoVision services. ***Newest offering F18A install. $169 + return shipping that's parts and labor. Great mod connect directly to HDTV with VGA port, or use a converter to go from VGA to HDMI. *** Ask about availability of ColecoVision hardware. I may have expansion modules or modded console(s) with or without controllers and power supply. If available Atari expansion module $20, steering wheel $25, Roller Controller $30, RGB modded console (console only) $199. Complete system with RGB, composite, pause, intro skip BIOS, 2 controllers and power supply $329. Plus shipping for all these listed items. RGB mod: Here is a link to a thread in the ColecoVision Forum: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/232809-new-rgb-colecovision-mod/ Here is a quick video I made with cell phone showing the RGB mod connected to the Framemeister and the HD Video Converter on a Vizio LCD TV. RGB mod outputs awesome video signal and dual mono audio through a discreet 8 pin mini din jack on the back of the console. This mod was designed to be used with a RGB to HDMI scaler. The XRGB mini Framemeister and the HD Video Converter (sometimes referred to as Panlong) are my tested and recommend scalers. They provide awesome picture quality on LCD/LED TVs. This RGB mod should also work with any monitor that accepts a 15khz video signal, although I have not tested on any monitors and cannot make any guarantees. https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Converter-Scaler-Coaxial-Consoles/dp/B00D86UYBS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1420692028&sr=8-1&keywords=scart+hdmi&linkCode=ll1&tag=atariage&linkId=6f51c402c5548c619cfeae00ff569b61 I have also seen them on Ebay for around $43 with free shipping. RGB Cables: Your choice of one of the three cables listed below is included with the RGB mod service. One or both of the other cables can be purchased at the time of service. I won't sell cables separately at a later date. 1. male to male 8 pin mini din cable. This will plug directly into the back of the ColecoVision and directly into the 8 pin mini din jack on the Framemeister. $10 if you choose another cable and want to add this one. 2. male 8 pin mini din to male 21 pin connector wired EURO SCART. For use with the HD Video Converter. $15 if you choose another cable and want to add this one. 3. male 8 pin mini din to male 21 pin connector wired JP-21(Japanese 21) RGB. This will plug into the 8 pin mini to female JP-21 adapter that is included with the Framemeister. $15 if you choose another cable and want to add this one. DIY Composite video Mod board (cord included) Picture below DIY purchase price for mod board with a/v cord included $29 shipped anywhere in the USA. This board was designed and tested for NTSC. The ColecoVision outputs only mono sound and this mod outputs the mono to both left and right. (dual mono). If you choose to buy a Composite modded system from another seller on Ebay, Craigslist ect...make sure they are using the LM318 amp chip and not the transistor mod. The transistor gets super hot and is prone to failure and there are brightness issues. Installation Instructions: ColecoVision DIY Mod Installation.pdf Prices: Repairs requiring chip replacement extra. Console refurbished with no mods. $40 + return shipping. Console refurbished and A/V mod board installed $69 + return shipping, a/v cable included. Console refurbish and RGB mod installed $109 + return shipping. $20 off if you send a working console that I have previously serviced for upgrade. Your choice of 1 of 3 RGB cables listed above is included and the other cables are available for the listed prices. Add composite video mod to RGB modded console for $29 (DIY price with free install) a/v cable included. Controller refurbishing $20 each or 2 for $30 if combined with console refurbish and mod install. Ball knobs and cord straighteneing are free options with controller refurbishing. Intro Skip BIOS $15 and Pause Button $35. Or both together for $40. BIOS and Pause only available additionally with console refurbish and RGB and/or A/V mod. All my mods are shown in this I made, with the exception of the Intro Skip BIOS and RGB. Here is a link to my Intro Skip BIOS thread http://www.atariage....nstall-offered/ and here is a link to my profile. I have links to all my mod threads on my profile. http://www.atariage....r/23318-yurkie/ If you have any questions please feel free to ask. LEDs are now 3mm red. These are much more discreet than the 5mm blue. I added 2 clear LEDs that light up blue. Power LED comes on when power switch is turned on. Pause LED blinks when Pause switch is flipped on. 4 second video showing blinking pause LED. LEDs $15 each. Power Mod: This mod eliminates the unreliable original power supply. A 12V regulated supply with barrel plug is inserted in barrel jack on the back of the console. 5V and -5V are internal. This mod is $50 + return shipping. Power supply may very from pic, but will 6' or longer total length. Pictures for reference. ColecoVision DIY Mod Installation.pdf
  10. (Sorry, I wasn´t able to find the origin topic) New to the family: a TI-99/4A (first teaser)
  11. Who has modded their 7800 and what mods did you use? Everyone knows the limits of the stock video output of the 7800 and how it leaves much to be desired. What mods have you gone with and why did you choose to mod your system.
  12. Is there a good place to get AV and maybe LED-modded 2600 consoles that I can be sure won't be sloppily put together? Does anyone on this forum sell them?
  13. FORGET ABOUT THIS THREAD HERE !! please got to http://atariage.com/forums/topic/239002-floppy-disk-controller/
  14. Hello all! I'm a second year Computer Engineering Student and my summer project is creating a modifiable NES controller using only the chip on the Arduino UNO. I was able to get my controller to interface with the console by connecting the two external interrupts to the NES's LATCH and PULSE lines. For those who may not be familiar, the NES uses a shift register that holds the inputs from the controller. (I simulated this in the registers of the CPU) 60 times a second, the LATCH lines grabs the current inputs, and outputs the first of 8 bits. Then the PULSE line goes high 8 times, and on each rising-edge the next bit of the output byte is sent to the console until the final pulse signifies the end of the sequence. What I'm trying to do is add the ability to record, then play back a run of inputs to the game. I have added a button and indicator LED to enter record/playback mode, and that part is working fine. I keep track of time by using one byte to count the number of latches. After latch 255, it resets back to 0 and adds a "NO-INPUT" entry to the recording if there were no input changes for the 0 - 255 cycle. I'm recording inputs by only recording input CHANGES during the LATCH ISR, and the latch count that the change occurred on. This then gives me a time and a mask that I can EX-OR to a starting "NO-INPUT". The problem I'm having is with the recording, it's very inconsistent. Sometimes every input is recorded, but the lengths of time between changes are very wrong. Sometimes, inputs are missed altogether. If I playback the recording, it executes the same way every time, so I don't think it's a problem with the playback function. I've tried using the chip's USART and a terminal on my computer to get some data from the chip that I can use to debug, but the multitude of interrupts seems to be messing with both the data being sent to the terminal and the data sent to the NES console. My two questions are this: What could be causing this issue with (seemingly) recording the data. And what can I do to debug this issue that doesn't require USART? Here's a GitHub repo with all of my code. I included the USART files I wrote even though they aren't used in the application. Thanks!
  15. Hello, today I became the brand new owner of a six switch atari 2600 which I got from an auction on ebay. I never owned an atari before, so I have a few questions about mine. When I got the system it was a little unstable, but that was fixed with a little solder to hold the power jack in place. Then I wasn't able to get a stable picture, but a bit of fiddling with the RF modulator and fine tuning the TV the atari is now functional, it however still has a few flaws. First, the sound doesn't really work, all I hear is loud static, I assume that this is due to the fact that my atari is from a PAL A region and my TV is PAL B. The colours are also off I think, combat game 0 is supposed to a beige(I think, I'm a little colourblind) but in my TV it's a puke green and neither of the tanks have any colour. Any help with these issues? I've attached a picture of combat game 0 as it appears on my TV. On a slightly different topic, I'm using the aerial lead that came stock with the system, but I'd like to have it output composite. If any of you have ever messed around with a ZX Spectrum there's a very simple composite mod and since both Spectrum and the 2600 use an RF modulator I was wondering if that mod would work on the 2600. Obviously it wouldn't have any sound, but I can always pull that out of some pad in the console if I'm not mistaken. The ZX Spectrum mod consists in disabling the RF modulator power supply and splicing the video input of the modulator and connecting it to a composite cable since the Spectrum RF modulator is converting composite to RF, is this also what's happening on the 2600? Thanks for reading all this, I'm a bit of a noob, I know.
  16. Does anyone have a pin diagram for standard CV controllers? I have given up trying to find a Champ keypad for sale, so I want to try to make one with a stock controller and a d-sub connector.
  17. I have a heavy sixer that I would like to get working and possibly be modded for composite a/v. Anyone around here offer that service? Maybe I am not using the right keyboards but my searches for such services have yielded few results. Thanks.
  18. More pics are in this Imgur post: https://imgur.com/gallery/j7OisBw I have a Triple Bypass modded MegaDrive VA4 Model 1. Everything works except the colour blue is missing, i did not have this problem before the recap/reflow. It has a yellow tint. I initially suspected that the RGB pins aren’t soldered on properly on the VDP Chip (315 5313A). I did break the RGB pins afterall. But still managed to solder the wire onto it by further exposing the broken legs with my craft knife. I used plenty of solder, and flux, there is no bridging and it’s not loose at all. I test the system with each pin soldered on individually. Red works (Reminds me of the Virtual Boy), Green works but not Blue. Instead i get a black screen with Blue when i test separately, even though it’s soldered on solid. Other mods include the Region Free chips, DFO accurate 60hz mod both work. The clicky reset button works, replaced the 7805 voltage regulators, i get sound. I’ve also recapped it prior to this problem using the Console5 kit. Could it be the caps? All are installed correctly. Many in the right place. Ps I did make a mistake at first by accidentally soldering in a 7812 which ended up shutting off the system and the VDP chip did get hot. I then quickly shut off the system and desoldered that 7812 that was misplaced in the 7805 packet and soldered in a 7805 and it powered on again. Voltages measured using my Astro Ai Multimeter from the VDP to GND. I put Sonic 3 in and took the game out at the white Sega Logo before measuring it. Here are the results. Red= 3.135v Green=3.255v Blue=3.438v I followed this guide for the Triple Bypass mod, more pics from the guide are below: https://www.retrorgb.com/genesis1rgbbypass.html https://console5.com/techwiki/images/f/fb/CXA1145PM.pdf There is also this guide, did not follow this since i have the Triple Bypass: https://videogameperfection.com/2018/08/28/megadrive-bypass-installation/ Is the console/VDP at fault or is it the mod such as the Triple Bypass board? And can this be fixed?
  19. This is an exciting new mod from user marshallh on assemblergames.com Here is a link to his website with some pics and info on the mod. http://ultrahdmi.retroactive.be/ He is only selling these to installers not to individuals. I am going to be an installer when his new stock arrives in a couple weeks. I am offering this for $199 installed and free return shipping initially. If your interested in having me install this new mod for you feel free to send me a message.
  20. Hello everyone, I know this may be a long shot.. but I am a huge fan of DoubleDown's work here in the past. With that said, I am looking to buy a CV console that was modded by him. His consoles typically had new pushbutton switches installed, so they definitely stand-out from others. His Super ColecoVision has multiple outputs and the HDMI I especially find useful. That would be THE console I'd use mainly for now on, besides a couple others that are "special" to me. The Mini CV's were very cool and i'd love to have one of those overall. Just PM me if there is anyone that would (hopefully) be willing to part with one.. Thanks,
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