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Found 15 results

  1. Hey guys n' gals, I recently found myself a copy of Chiller for NES. I tried cleaning it and testing it on different systems but it doesn't work properly. It screams at me (which is normal) but it is a white screen. I press start and I can hear sound and see the monsters but the monsters are all solid gray and the environments are missing. I opened up the cart and judging by a picture I found online, I think this board is missing a resistor. As you can see in the picture of my board, there are 3 resistors at the top left, but in this picture I found online, there should be 4 there. I am hoping this is the issue and that it can be solved. I could probably replace the resistor but I can't tell which one I need. Does anyone else have a copy that they can take a look at the board and check? Thanks.
  2. I am looking to put together a motherboard replacement and wanted to get some opinions on a few things. In order to keep costs low and reduce board size, the controller ports would be moved to the expansion port area. Ideally the SGM features could be impletemented, but if not an expansion port could be done internally and a SGM could be installed inside the system. This board would only be F18a compatible so only VGA output would be available (although an off the shelf converter would fit inside with the extra room to convert to HDMI). The board would include new power reset switch functionality. The attached picture shows a rough first pass at the PCB, Some stock images from the motherboard have been superimposed to give a general idea of where components would go. Is not Having the expansion port in the front a deal breaker for most or does this seem like it could be a solution for those looking for a replacement. All feedback is welcome. Thanks
  3. I have an Atari 5200 Trak-Ball that won't move the cursor UP...everything else on it works flawlessly, all the fire buttons, auxiliary buttons, keypad buttons, and the cursor movements of left, right, and down. It just won't move the cursor UP. I am looking for parts to fix this problem. Anyone with any ideas, any parts, a CX-53 Trak-Ball that has other problems but the cursor moves in ALL directions (I'd be willing to buy it from you for the parts), any of these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. - rolccone (Ed)
  4. Definitely my bad this time. Ugh. Here's a great example why it's not a good idea to do hardware changes when you're in a rush. You know, by lifting the cage that houses the power supply and bays without first disconnecting the ribbon cable from the motherboard. In the process I accidentally broke one of the pins off of the floppy drive connector on an Amiga 2000 motherboard. The pin is securely stuck in the end of the ribbon cable's connector. Any advice on the best way to fix/replace the motherboard's connector? I'm guessing that the cable itself is kaput, since I don't see how I can get the actual pin out of it. Another question: It's been awhile, but I was pretty sure that PC and Amiga disk drive ribbon cables were the same. Is that correct? Thanks!
  5. gulps

    Vga onboard

    Classic motherboard connections.
  6. I opened up my Atari 7800 yesterday to adjust/fix the cartridge guide so that it will accept some third-party cartridges without any problems. This was a success and I'm happy with the result (even Imagic carts fit the slot without a problem now). When I was putting the system back together I noticed some sort of pink residue around diodes CR9 and CR10. Diodes don't leak, and as far as I'm aware, there is nothing in this area that can leak. The "pink stuff" is only on the component side of the board; there is nothing at all on the solder side of the motherboard. Does anyone have any idea what this pink stuff might be on the board? Here is a medium-res picture of my 7800's motherboard: Here is a close-up of the area with the pink stuff (you should be able to zoom into this picture pretty well): This system has worked for a couple of decades without any problems for me. There has always been an issue with a hissing sound in the background of my games... but I've always thought that it was standard RF interference. I can't tell what the pink substance is (it honestly looks like Pepto Bismol, but it's in a very thin layer). I'd rather not put the system back together without figuring this out. I just tested the system and it works fine. Can anyone tell me if this "pink stuff" is a real problem or not? Also, has anyone ever seen anything like this before on there. Adam
  7. So I purchased a New Old Stock Motherboard off ebay the other day, and my plan is to get myself a white shell to build myself a Jag with. I need some AA input on the following: So far I have, or know that I need: -Mother Board -Jag Case -Power Supply -AV Cable -Rubber foot pads for the case What I am wondering is what else I need? Such as the following items -LED light (or is that included on the motherboard)-Plan is to switch to Blue anyway, but wondering if the Red is even included? -Screws, both to attach the motherboard to the case, and to fasten the case together (are any of these included as far as anyone knows who's put one together before, or is a trip to the local hardware store necessary?) -RF Shielding? The original Jag MOBO is encased in some RF shielding, is that really necessary? I don't think the white case or the bare MoBo come with it. Thoughts? Worth trying to track down from Best or B&C? -Cutting: Are there directions anywhere as to what parts need to be cut out of the white shells in order to fit the Jag mobo. My impression is that the molds were altered a little for use with the dental camera and a post or two needs to be cut in order to make the mobo fit. My plan is to have some blue vinyl logos printed up, have a blue LED, and really make this a looker, as well as my go to Jag. Thanks for any and all input.
  8. Hi, I'm looking for an Intellivision 2609 (model 1) and/or Model II motherboard to swap into one of my 2 busted consoles. My SVA was fine until I moved it. The ribbon cable was delaminating and it ended shorting out against the other wires inside the ribbon itself, frying my only working logic board. I have a spare board and it almost wants to work but it still has problems. I have another Intellivision II but it's broke too, with audio only and displaying a just black screen. In other words, I'm screwed since I can't play my new homebrews. So if anyone has a spare, working mobo for a model 1 or II, or even a cheap working whole unit, please PM me. I don't care what it looks like, just as long as it works.. I have nice shells already. I hope to work out a trade but cash(paypal) may work too.. Just putting some feelers out. Thanks!
  9. I think we should make something similar. http://wiki.icomp.de/wiki/c64_reloaded I would add - RGB/VGA output for modern TVs (without removing videocomposite/s-video output for older TVs) - 1MB RAM - Double Pokey
  10. Not sure if this is a known variant (I assume it must be), but the yellow silkscreen is not something I've seen before (in ten years of fixing and upgrading dozens of 800XLs). NOS boxed NTSC machine.
  11. Hello everyone! After my other post I made about a year or two ago, I have been taking apart and reassembling my Heavy Sixer. I have been inspecting the switch board and motherboard, and noticed something very strange. The logic board itself (the board inside the metal RF case) has a drastically different layout than most heavy sixers. It has a more simple, greenish color than other boards, and looks like the one I will show below (picture from a different atariage user). From what he said, the serial number sticker on the back of the console was missing, just like mine. In addition, there are two stickers on the metal casing inside the console, unlike his, however. I will attach a picture of this as well. Perhaps this is a reconditioned unit? There is no sticker on the back labeled "factory reconditioned". I am very confused. Also, there is a label on the back that reads: "REV 1" and "c012173". What do these mean?
  12. I'm new here so I don't have the "rep". Anyways, I am looking for Amiga 500 motherboards. Preferred broken ones but I am willing to buy working ones too. Especially ones with the addon board that goes in the one corner. I can link my eBay or do sales thru eBay to ensure a safe transaction.
  13. From the album: Renderings

    Rendering of the silkscreen and the soldermask (component side) of the Atari STE extracted, resized to scale and assembled on a shape looking like a motherboard.

    © ©2021 David SPORN

  14. Tonight is a first for me. I recently picked up a beige v2.2 console and it does not power up. Aside from a power supply with a red LED shoved back onto itself (which gave me a good chuckle,) I found two leaked capacitors: a purple 100μF 16V to the bottom-left of the CPU, and one of the two 100μF 16V next to the VDP. These are axials and I do not have radials with long enough leads on-hand to replace them so I cannot be sure these are actually the problem, but they certainly represent a problem. I looked around the board and found these electrolytic capacitors: 3x 100μF 16V 4x 22μF 25V 1x 10μF 35V and one which has a value I cannot see but looks like one of the 22μF 25V. Note none of the Nichicons, the 22s and 10s, have leaked.
  15. Hello there, I am building a 1200Xl from scratch. On the motherboard there are what appear to be decoupling capacitors that are located between pin 8 and pin 16 on the memory chip. C16 - C23 I am wanting to install gold plated machine pin sockets that come with a decoupling capacitor installed in the frame of the socket. The Atari schematic calls out 0.1uF on the motherboard. The Capactor in the frame is also 0.1uF That would give 0.2uF per memory chip if I installed the caps in the board. Do I just replace the caps on the MB with wire, omit them entirely or leave the caps in the motherboard? Thank You Douglasmemdetail.bmp
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