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Found 10 results

  1. I've seen USB adapters for connecting Atari 2600 paddle controllers to a PC, but what about connecting USB optical mice to a real Atari to use as paddles? I'm interested in trying a regular wired USB optical mouse or PC wired USB optical trackball for controlling paddle games - not only would it give a different gaming experience than paddles, but optical controllers would also be "jitter proof". I have already made my own spinner controllers for MAME and Stella on the computer very simply, by duct-taping an optical mouse against a shaft (such as a wood dowel, or a wood dowel through a section of foam pool noodle) connected to a knob, and it works beautifully. So I am curious about making an adapter using an Arduino or Raspberry Pi or similar, that you can plug the mouse into, and outputs the variable resistances that would emulate a real paddle controller on the 2600. (The paddle button would be a simple matter of wiring the button to the appropriate pins.) Has anyone tried this, seen a page on this, or got any idea how a microcontroller might output the resistance range (1M ohm) that a native 2600 paddle controller would?
  2. I've got a few Atari controller secrets to reveal which some of you may have never come upon. Here's the lowdown: 1) the Atari CX-22 Trakball has a desirable feature that the later-released black CX-80 Trakball doesn't have. In fact, there are other 2600-compatible trackballs that have this feature as well... 2) The combo paddle/joystick 2600 controllers made by Sears and Coleco are not as effective to play paddle games on a light sixer or heavy sixer unless you have a particular item to use with the controller. There are some people here who may have never known about this. 3) Omega Race is a two-button game requiring a special "Booster Grip" to properly play it. Some may not have that Booster Grip, but there is another way to play the game... and a controller from another gaming console is the key. 4) There's a particular mouse that can be used to play 2600 games, but there's a trick that you have to know in order to make it "active". I've got all this explained in today's presentation on my Wired-up Retro Ytube channel. Enjoy:
  3. I'm looking to sell a few items in my collection, may update with more items later. I have a Sega Dreamcast Keyboard with box, the mouse, and a Typing of the Dead CIB.. Looking for 115 shipped in the US. Reasonable offers will be entertained. Been a while since I've been on here, but I'm in the feedback thread and my ebay id is little_lebowski Also have a copy of The Kung Fu (China Warrior in US) a Turbografx 16 Japanese import. I'd like to get 10 shipped for it. Thanks for looking.
  4. I would like to use a USB trackball on PS1 games that support the Playstation Mouse (especially Atari Anniversary). I'm wondering if anyone knows if there is any type of adapter that would work for this? There seem to be adapters out there that are designed to allow the use of USB mouse and keyboard on FPS for the PS2, but since those games were likely not designed for the Playstation Mouse, I am doubtful that I'd get the same kind of accuracy and responsiveness on games designed for the Playstation Mouse, but perhaps I am wrong?
  5. Although this is slated for a bigger upcoming project, I figured it would likely be useful in a stand-alone application as well. Since I have a new compact motherboard design that will require an internal mouse interface with the ability to easily switch between joystick ports, and if desired completely disappear (stealth mode), I began work on a new mouse interface chip for the A8. It could have just as easily been used in an Atari ST, or with a bit of code finagling also made to work in an Amiga. Initially I looked at some of the GPL PS/2 mouse-to-ST/Amiga offerings, thinking that I would simply add what code I needed. However once I dived in, I quickly decided this would not be a good way to go, and so began my journey to write mouse code from scratch in my favorite development application FlowCode. Anyway suffice it to say i am probably 85% done, with the last 15% dedicated to supporting mouse movement acceleration (very tricky stuff). So here's a look at how this new mouse chip will be implemented in my new project, along with of course a TK-II keyboard chip (this schematic shows part of the I/O section). Unlike the mouse support that existed on the early versions of TK-II firmware, and then was later abandoned, this one has true ST mouse emulation as its primary goal (plus some enhancements). Yes I know people would love to have a USB mouse instead (as well as a USB keyboard interface), but with all that I have going on I'm afraid this is the best that I can presently do. Especially considering the learning curve required to implement this in USB as well likely needing to switch over to a different processor family to really do it right (yet another learning curve to climb). Besides despite what the rumors would have you believe, there are plenty of NEW PS/2 mice and keyboards still available, as well as some that offer wireless support. And lets face it, PS/2 protocol is a hell of a lot easier to work with. Ohh and did I mention that I get lazy from time to time . Anyway I doubt if I'll be making any PCBs for stand-alone plug-in usage, but if someone is ambitious, I will be providing the PIC MCU Firmware (in JOY2PIC and Microchip file versions). Stay tuned for more info and eventually the firmware release. - Michael
  6. is this mouse for atari , here is AM and AT button so i think it measn Amiga and Atari is it true?
  7. Has anyone ever heard of optical mice for the playstation one? The original ps1 mice were ball mice, of course, with the little rubber coated steel ball that skidded on the mouse pad. I've seen a couple ads on eBay. I asked about this one Topway AMS-1068 and the seller said it was optical. On its way over from Germany to arrive somewhere in January. https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS1-gamepad-Mouse-mouse-grey-AMS-1068-Topway-NEW-BOXED/202096481060?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D49566%26meid%3Da19e70d24adc480184fecea0475b14eb%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D263385070423&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 There is another here I have no idea about. Raton is just "mouse" in French. Any knowledge of the existence of a new wave of optical ps1 mice being designed in Europe? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Raton-PSX-Mouse-nuevo-sony-playstation-1-play-staion-one-ps1/263385070423?hash=item3d52f93b57:g:TKYAAOSw~HBaMGQ6
  8. From the album: RetroIndieGamer's classic games collection

    From left to right we have Star Raiders, Circus Atari, Basketball, Mouse Trap, and Super Football. All of these are fun. Unfortunately, I can't play Star Raiders since I don't have the keypad controller.

    © Retro Indie Gamer 2013

  9. Hi there. I'm offering PS/2 mouse adapter for Atari ST/Amiga with the following features: Atari ST/Amiga mode (switchable) third mouse button support on a machines that support it Slow mode for other computers, namely XL/XE, which cannot read the default full speed small enough to fit inside ST kebyoard (see photos) The modes can be switched durning power on by holding a mouse button durning power on: LMB switches between Atari ST and Amiga mode. RMB switches between default and slow mode. You can hold both buttons to switch both modes in the same time. The actual configuration is then stored into internal EEPROM. The price is 12 EUR + 3 EUR shipping to Europe or 4 EUR outside Europe. I'm accepting Paypal only.
  10. I'm looking for Apple M0100 mice (Mouse IIe, Mouse IIc, or similar models). I'll take them in any condition - broken, missing pieces, cut cable, bad attitude. My plan is to make USB optical mice out of them to sell. There are a bunch on eBay, but people want ridiculous amounts for them, even in bad shape. If you send me one, and want it converted, I'll give you a break on the final price (as yet, undetermined). If you send me more than one, you can get one of them back, converted to USB for free. If you just want to offload your old mice, I'm offering $10 each in good condition, $5 for broken ones. I'll also pay for (reasonable) shipping. Message me if you have one (or a box full) you want to get rid of.
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