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Found 39 results

  1. ***UPDATE: Download the ENTIRE NTSC & PAL Atari 7800 set HERE. Original Post follows... This is relatively important, especially for our game developers I'm hoping this helps and makes color conversion from one format to another a bit easier. Download both raw color palettes here: There is no bias and both palettes share the following same attributes per standard Atari 7800 configuration without any display device influence (And no 'warm-up' factor). This is system cold/factory default settings as follows: Contrast = 0.05 Brightness = 0.00 Color = 0.22 Phase = 25.7 Colorburst = 180 degrees This NTSC palette and the ones to follow are brand new and never released before due to error on my part, but this PAL palette has been released before under a different name, again due to errors on my part. Again, they are both the 'raw' ones for their respective regions. Your input (especially PAL users as I am in NTSC land) is greatly appreciated for this thread. Thank You, Robert
  2. pps

    fefmsg

    Yesterdays I provided the code I used to play back RMT music created with current 1.32 release. Most of this code was written by @dmsc and/or @VinsCool. I did just some adaptions to be able to replay the song correct, so I can use the new RMT in some projects. Just some days before I started, what now is publicly available Have fun watching this little intro - and feel free to dance to this cool DM song 🙃 Download at pouet or my own website
  3. There has been many threads and topics devoted to the colors of WinVice on a variety of forums; particularly for the NTSC region. The developers have certainly done tremendous work with the emulator and it is commendable. Even relatively recently, the following was performed respecting the video display: http://www.lemon64.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=596300#596300 It brought contrast and saturation to a default value of 1.250. It makes the current NTSC default display appear as follows: While indeed appreciated as a rather 'dull/muted' look is part of the issue with the way the NTSC display appears, there is another issue which was brought up previously that cannot be corrected properly through the video options offered via WinVice. The default red and blue ratios are not what many NTSC users experience. The worst and most evident being the amount of red applied to blue as noticed on the boot screen, but there are other issues as well. The testimony of many NTSC users on these boards as well as numerous online examples of the actual NTSC hardware running on official Commodore equipment (I.E. 1702) as well as other CRT displays makes this clearly evident: A shift of the tint value (More green/less red) will correct this (improperly) to a degree, but it also impacts the entire palette and will cause greys to look greenish as well as a slew of other undesired adjustments. Again, the main issue is red and blue ratio values, not something a tint/hue control can address the right way. So here is hopefully something to assist those NTSC users. This is not hand-picked or manually manipulated palette colors. Rather we take the default.vpl file values from WinVice and offer up the following comparison: Quickly looking over the chart especially the first three (Default, Default15, Default30) one may not notice much if any difference, but there is as we compare the various boot screens with the default and variety of ratio adjustments using the default user adjustable video option values of WinVice. *Note: All screen captures going forward are in the following order: default.vpl default15.vpl --> default30.vpl --> default15-15.vpl --> default30-30.vpl. Once an individual can figure approximately where their display falls in the spectrum, then other adjustments can be applied (Contrast, Brightness, Saturation, Tint). Here is what further difference the boot screen can appear with just contrast bumped up: You'll notice from the boot screen that the default15 and default15-15 does not appear to look different; ditto with the default30 and default 30-30. To truly notice the full range of what has changed and not changed (Or hardly changed) let's take two popular titles utilizing again the default user video option values: Bruce Lee G.I. Joe The differences from default and the four new default values should hopefully be much clearer. The issue (red/blue portions) is not unique to the C64 under the NTSC region. All three Atari systems (2600/5200/7800) and the NES (Both with vastly different ways of how their palettes are generated) experience a similar phenomenon. The only proper way to address it is with the option of modifying red, green, and blue ratio proportions, once a set of default values are obtained from the appropriate performed calculations. You'll notice that the percentage of 15% and 30% were utilized. Every 15% is where a very significant difference becomes apparent as highlighted in the captures. A higher percentage is possible but evidence of any online examples or personal experience of the ratios within a range greater than 30% is lacking. How to apply the different palettes: Copy the palette files to the C64 sub-folder found within the main folder where the main executable resides. (I.E. C:\WinVICE\C64) After copying the files you normally should be able to select them via the GUI interface: 'Settings' --> 'Video Settings' --> 'VICII Palette' tab. However, that appears not to work. An easy method is to just open the vice.ini file (Found in the main directory where the executable resides - i.e. C:\WinVICE) with Notepad and about a third of the way down you will find two lines: VICIIPaletteFile="default" VICIIExternalPalette=0 Change "default" to one of the new default files and change the 0 to 1. So for example if you wanted to try the "default15-15.vpl" file, the lines would be modified to: VICIIPaletteFile="default15-15" VICIIExternalPalette=1 Please make sure you save the file. Proceed then to launch WinVice and make whatever additional video changes you desire - contrast, brightness, saturation, etc. It would be wonderful to perhaps see these options/values incorporated and included in the WinVice distribution. To assist further and in aiding any who believe or desire to make manual adjustments to the default calculations here is the complete chart of palette values: Download the chart in Excel format here: CHARTDELTAS.zip Finally, the four new default palette files for WinVice can be downloaded here: WinVice_Default_Palettes_20131207.zip
  4. Morning all, poster from Ireland here, TLDR version: I am utterly clueless when it comes to AV hook-ups for the original Odyssey (and also when it comes power networking more generally). Would really appreciate if someone could review my Youtube/Wikipedia research, so I don't destroy a vintage console. The Console: I have an original Magnavox Odyssey (1972) that I picked up from another guy living in Ireland. I don't know much about Magnavox's distribution history (was the idea of PAL consoles even a thing back in 1972? ) but I'm assuming it's a standard NTSC unit that was imported, as there's a sticker on the bottom saying 120V/60Hz. The guy I bought it from just had it out on display, so there's no game power cord or antenna game switch with it, and I'm just trying to figure out what my best options are to power it on (without wearing out the battery compartment), and connecting it to a CRT. Power (Problem): In Ireland, we run the UK-style "Type G" electrical sockets, that output a standard supply of 230 volts AC (frequency 50Hz). I do have a step-down transformer but would prefer not to use it if possible, as it heats up very quickly. So I guess what I'm looking for is a) a modern power supply that can accept an input range of 100-240V, 50/60 HZ), b) that's well suited to the MA1 console, and c) that has those Irish/UK style pins. Like I said, I don't have one of the original power supplies that Magnavox manufactured for the Odyssey (I have been waiting for a few months for one to pop up on eBay with no joy...), but in an earlier thread linked below, @Clong80 notes that the specs on the original power supply are: INPUT 117 VAC 50/60HZ OUTPUT 9 volts 400ma 3.5mm mono headphone jack Tip positive for polarity Power (Solution?) So after a bit of online browsing, I found this website that sells modern power supply adapters for the Atari 2600. The specs on this unit are: 9V DC 1A Tip: 3.5mm jack (Centre tip positive) https://www.retrosales.com.au/collections/atari-power/products/accessory-power-supply-atari-2600-power-supply-adaptor-pack-9v So that will supply more current than the console needs; I know these numbers don't need to match exactly, but is the difference (9V, 1A vs 9V, 400ma) reasonable enough? I'd also need a standard travel adapter to convert the Australian plug to UK pin-style. Found this unit on Amazon ("This Adapter does not convert Voltage. Please make sure your device supports 220-240 Voltage.") Per Jakob Schuler on YouTube, it looks like the Magnavox Odyssey needs a 2.5mm tip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzXlJSa_VP4&t=6m22s), so I found this 3.5mm-to-2.5mm adapter on Amazon AV Hookup: I don't have one of the original antenna game switches with the hanging hooks, but my CRT doesn't accept NTSC RF anyway, so I don't think that would be the best option for me. However, it will accept NTSC through the composite ports. And I have an NTSC RF-to-composite conversion box, which works great either on its own or with composite switches. I've had no luck finding an original MA1 video cable like this one https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_06_2016/post-32949-0-81329000-1466475134.jpg On the TV end, the little RF adapters are obviously no problem to get from Amazon, but I understand that the other end which connects to the console is proprietary? (I'm not 100% sure about this). End of an entirely-too-long post Would be super grateful if anyone could advise me on 1) whether I've made any huge screw-ups in my choice of power accessories, and 2) how to find a video cable that will connect to the console Many thanks if you stuck through to the end of this post
  5. See photos. All games boxed with manual and et cetera flyers. Prices are negotiable for some of the higher end games (it's very hard to try and determine fair values). All games (except sealed of course) were tested when received at the time. F14 Tomcat (sealed) - $300 F18 Hornet - $50 Kung Fu Master (sealed) - $450 Pete Rose Baseball - $100 Super Skateboarding - $80 Titlematch Pro Wrestling (sealed) - $450 Double Dragon (sealed) - $450 Rampage - $125 Asteroids - $15 Realsports Baseball - $10 Robotron - $20 Summer Games - $175 Touchdown Football - $15 Winter Games - $25 Tank Command - $SOLD Water Ski - $SOLD
  6. Hi y'all, and Happy New Year! I recently picked up a heavy 6-switcher on eBay, which had an AV mod fitted (by "Atarimania9", a UK seller from London). I am finding that all the carts which came with the console, are fine - but any new ones I buy (and I've purchased carts from about 8 different UK sellers) are ALL playing in black and white only?? So, could the problem be that I have an NTSC console (and supplied carts), but playing UK (PAL) carts is the issue? Cheers all, and best wishes,. Matt.
  7. Hi. I recently bought an Atari Jaguar of eBay. It is PAL. It seems to power on and shows a green light. But when I hook it up to the TV, I see a distorted image (what you see when you don’t insert an Atari 2600 cartridge properly) I’ve been told by someone that the console is working as it should and the image I see is caused by the PAL system being used in an NTSC country. What do you think? By the way, I am using the AV signal. Is there something I need to buy to get it working? Thank you!
  8. Short and Sweet version... The most complete and diverse palettes available; including not only "tint/hue" but internal console "pot adjustments" as well which in part accounts for variances between systems and displays. A range of brilliance and saturation levels are included too. Grab the complete set with below description and explanation here: GCCFINALXX_20130624.zip *UPDATED 6/24* - Additional color logic/decode for neutral "pot" palettes and improved naming convention. Detailed version... The GCCFINALXX palettes offer a robust range of settings with much diversity regarding color control. It includes "tint" adjustment (as typical found on a display's end-user controls) as well as "pot" adjustment (Color tuning found inside the 7800 console). Additionally, there is a range of color brilliance and saturation settings from the raw/base levels to extreme levels. Here is a typical file name: "NTSC_GCCFINAL1G_XTRBRT_LOWSAT.pal" It describes the palette in the following four areas: I. Region II. Palette Family Pot and Tint/Hue Setting III. Brilliance Setting IV. Saturation Level I. REGION: The region difference is noted by either NTSC or PAL in the file name. II. PALETTE FAMILY POT / TINT SETTING The difference respecting the "pot adjustment" is noted by either number 1, 2, or 3 in the file name: 1 = More Blue to Red, Less Blue to Green. 2 = Neutral 3 = More Blue to Green, Less Blue to Red. The difference respecting the "tint/hue setting" is noted by either a letter G, N, or R. G = More Green N = Neutral R = More Red Complete Color Base line: GCCFINAL1G = TINT is more green / POT is more blue over red, less blue over green GCCFINAL2G = TINT is more green / POT is neutral GCCFINAL2G-ALT = TINT is more green / POT is neutral (Alternate color logic) GCCFINAL3G = TINT is more green / POT is more blue over green, less blue over red GCCFINAL1N = TINT is neutral / POT is more blue over red, less blue over green GCCFINAL2N = TINT is neutral / POT is neutral GCCFINAL2N-ALT = TINT is neutral / POT is neutral (Alternate color logic) GCCFINAL3N = TINT is neutral / POT is more blue over green, less blue over red GCCFINAL1R = TINT is more red / POT is more blue over red, less blue over green GCCFINAL2R = TINT is more red / POT is neutral GCCFINAL2R-ALT = TINT is more red / POT is neutral (Alternate color logic) GCCFINAL3R = TINT is more red / POT is more blue over green, less blue over red III. BRILLIANCE: The level of color brilliance or brightness is noted using the following: LOW = Base/Raw Level MED = Average Level XTR = Extreme Level Complete Brilliance Line (Least to Greatest) = LOWBRT, MEDBRT, XTRBRT IV. SATURATION: The level of color saturation is noted using the following: LOW = Base/Raw Level MED = Average Level XTR = Extreme Level Complete Saturation Line (Least to Greatest) = LOWSAT, MEDSAT, XTRSAT A few final thoughts...Keep in mind that your current display device (Computer monitor can have a slant/push) may result in you choosing a palette that could seem like an unlikely candidate or choice. For example, have you ever read a review where they says the monitor has, not a red, but a "pink push", or "too much pink"? The actual issue may be there is a stronger than expected or accustomed to blue over red ratio. In that scenario, you may want to counter it with one of the GCCFINAL3X palettes depending on how strong the monitor's slant/push is of "pink". Or if you have a display with a red push, you may want or/and need to counter it with one of the GCCFINALXG palettes. Then again, your current display may be perfectly color calibrated and it is the original 7800 system or device you play(ed) it on that leans or slants in a certain direction regarding colors as a result of the pot adjustment or television configuration. It's all factors to keep in mind when trying the select a palette that looks 'right' to you. Please note too, one palette may look just right for one game and very wrong for another. A few titles there is little noticeable changes (I.E. Dig Dug) among a slew of different palettes. In other titles, each palette will make a obvious and distinct difference (I.E. Xenophobe). ENJOY!
  9. Hello Atari owners and modders. I'm trying to add an audio / composite output on my "new" atari 2600 (NTSC 4 switch), but I can't obtain any image... The console worked yesterday with RF output, but with no sound and a really weird/dirty b&w image. That's why I decided to add an A/V mod to permanently solve the problem. I think I choose the cheaper solution: 2 resistances and 1 transistor, similar to the easier-7800-composite-video-mod My circuit is the same as the solution proposed by brighty83 for a PAL version here (down of the page):http://retro.mmgn.co...ari-2600-AV-Mod I found the same cicuit on ebay, sellers detail the process on their installation guides for NTSC versions: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FAtari-2600-7800-Composite-Video-Mod-Upgrade-Kit-DIY-%2F300592126324 (see Installation Guides for atari 2600 4 switch) or http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.fr%2FAtari-2600-A-V-Composite-Video-Mod-Kit-NTSC-PAL-DIY-%2F181042624250%3Fpt%3DLH_DefaultDomain_0%26hash%3Ditem2a26fb36fa installation guide: http://www.filedropp...stallationguide (page 10 for NTSC 4 switch) Here is the circuit (sorry for the poor image quality): Video out and GND ---> Video RCA Audio out and GND ---> Audio RCA As mentionned on guides for NTSC 4 switch, I removed the RF box, Q202 and R209: The sound works well, but no images, it's so sad... I don't know what to do, and I'm dying about playing with it, in good conditions I mean. Some of you tried this mod? any idea ? Fujisama
  10. Hello, I bought an Atari 2600 from a flea market today and since It didn't come with a power cord I have no idea whether It is PAL or NTSC. My question is, how can I know what kind of Atari 2600 I have without risking to break the thing down because of overcharge. Instead of a charger, It came with a cord that looks like It has a US socket. Please leave a response If you know something.
  11. I was reading flashjazzcat's thread about his GUI project and saw his screenshots, and it got me thinking about artifacting (again). Artifacting, for those who aren't familiar with the term, is the effect on NTSC systems with a composite monitor where the LUM signal interferes with the COLOR signal, which causes half-size pixels to display with a colored "fringe". If you draw a whole row of even-numbered or odd-numbered pixels, you get one of two "fake" colors. By setting the background color to black and the foreground to white (or vice-versa), the effect is most pronounced. Anyway what got me thinking about it is, FJC showed (I believe) an 800XL with purple/green artifacting, and a 65XE with blue/orange. My XEGS does purple/green, and my old (long-dead) 800XL did blue/orange. I've also heard of yellow/blue though I've never seen it. So I'm wondering: what actually determines the color of the artifact? I doubt it's the (solely) IC because swapping GTIAs doesn't seem to affect it (with my limited sample set anyway). To answer this mystery I dug into the GTIA (and CGIA) data sheets to figure out exactly how this color timing works. Hope this comes out right: _____________ / LUM ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------X LUM 0-F |<----------------------------------------------------------------------------------->|\_____________ | T(lum1) = Luma output delay (max 450ns) ___ | ________________________ __________________ \| / \ / OSC \ OSC low 140nS / OSC high 140nS \ / |\________________________/ \________________________/ | | T(inv) = Color output delay (max 190nS) |<-------------------------------->| ______________________________________|_________________________________________________________________ |/ COL / Color Reg = 0 (No color output) _____________________________________/ _________________________________________________________________________________________________ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ COL \ 1 \ 2 \ 3 \ 4 \ 5 \ 6 \ 7 \ 8 \ 9 \ A \ B \ C \ D \ E \ F \ \___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\____ |<->| Δt = 16-25 You can see from the diagram the same thing I realized: the luma output for a given color clock comes much later than the color output! This seeming discrepancy is possibly explained by delay introduced by capacitance in the color output circuitry, which can work as an AC delay (technically [in a perfect capacitor] it causes the signal to be changed into the derivative of its input, for any calculus people out there). Now one thing you may be thinking is "What about the color adjustment pot?", which is a valid question. The CADJ signal is a voltage input to C/GTIA which adjusts the delta between different colors. Because this affects the delta, there is only one setting that is "right": too high or too low and your spectrum goes either above or below 360°. So given that only one setting is "right", it follows that you cannot change artifacting using this input without actually making "normal" colors incorrect. As you can see, every hue value corresponds to a 16-25 nS delay; thus a difference in delay of as little as 10s of nanoseconds in either the luma or color output can, without impacting normal color output, dramatically change the artifacting colors observed. So take this data and combine the fact that just about every Atari model (and, thanks to widespread modification, often multiple systems in the same model) has a different color output circuit, and the conclusion I come to is that the video output circuit used is a primary (if not THE primary) influence on the artifacting output. Interestingly when I added color output to my 600XL, I used the simple XE color circuit, and as a test I created a simple "composite" output by bridging the chroma to the luma via a capacitor, and observed the output - and the output was purple/green just like my XEGS with the identical color circuit. The only problem with my theory is the observations of FJC's demo output. He showed his 65XE with blue/orange and his XL with purple/green! This would seem to poke a big hole in my theory that I cannot explain - so FJC, did you happen to mix up the labels on those two screen grabs?
  12. I think this list is complete including the LATE (and I really do mean late) releases. If you see something I missed, let me know? * 007 Legends * Adventure Time: Explore the Dungeon * Adventure Time: Finn & Jake Investigate * Amazing Spiderman, The * Amazing Spiderman 2, The * Angry Birds: Star Wars * Angry Birds Trilogy * Animal Crossing: Amiibo Festival * Assassin's Creed III * Assassin's Creed III Steelbook * Assassin's Creed IV: Black Flag * Axiom Verge Multiverse Edition * Barbie and Her Sisters: Puppy Rescue * Barbie: Dreamhouse Party * Batman: Arkham City Armored Edition * Barman: Arkham Origins * Bayonetta 2 (2 discs) * Ben 10 Omniverse * Ben 10 Omniverse 2 * Book of Unwritten Tales 2, The * Brunswick Pro Bowling * Cabela's Big Game Hunter: Pro Hunts * Cabela's Dangerous Hunts 2013 * Call of Duty Black Ops II * Call of Duty Ghosts * Captain Toad: Treasure Tracker * Cars 3: Driven to Win * The Croods: Prehistoric Party * Darksiders * Darksiders II * Deus Ex: Human Revolution - Director's Cut * Devil's Third * Disney Infinity * Disney Infinity 2.0 * Disney Infinity 3.0 * Donkey Kong Country: Tropical Freeze * DuckTales: Remastered * Epic Mickey 2 * ESPN Sports Connection * Family Party: 30 Great Games - Obstacle Arcade * Fast and the Furious: Showdown, The * Funky Barn * FIFA Soccer 13 * Game & Wario * Game Party Champions * Giana Sisters Twisted Dreams: Director's Cut * Guitar Hero Live * Hello Kitty Kruisers * Hot Wheels: World's Best Driver * How to Train Your Dragon 2 * Hyrule Warriors * Injustice: Gods Among Us * Jeopardy! * Just Dance 4 * Just Dance: Disney Party 2 * Just Dance 2014 Standard * Just Dance 2015 Standard * Just Dance 2016 Standard * Just Dance 2016 Gold Edition * Just Dance 2017 Standard * Just Dance 2017 Gold Edition * Just Dance 2018 Standard * Just Dance 2019 * Just Dance Kids 2014 * Kirby and the Rainbow Curse * Kung-Fu Panda: Showdown of the Legendary Legends * Legend of Kay Anniversary * Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild * Legend of Zelda: Twilight Princess HD * Legend of Zelda: Wind Waker HD * Lego Batman 2: DC Super Heroes * Lego Batman 3: Beyond Gotham * Lego City Undercover * Lego Dimensions * Lego The Hobbit * Lego Jurassic World * Lego Marvel Adventures * Lego Marvel Superheroes * Lego Movie Videogame * Lego Star Wars: The Force Awakens * Madden NFL '13 * Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games Sochi 2014 * Mario & Sonic at the Rio 2016 Olympic Games * Mario Kart 8 * Mario Party 10 * Mario Tennis: Ultra Smash * Marvel Avengers: Battle For Earth * Mass Effect 3: Special Edition * Mighty No. 9 * Minecraft * Minecraft Story Mode: The Complete Adventure * Monster High: 13 Wishes * Monster High: New Ghoul at School * Monster Hunter 3 Ultimate * NBA 2K13 * Need For Speed Most Wanted U * NES Remix Pack * New Super Luigi Bros. U * New Super Mario Bros. U * New Super Mario U + New Super Luigi U * Ninja Gaiden 3: Razor's Edge * NintendoLand * Paper Mario Color Splash * Pac-Man and the Ghostly Adventures * Pac-Man and the Ghostly Adventures 2 * Penguins of Madagascar * Phineas & Ferb: Quest for Cool Stuff * Pikmin 3 * Planes * Planes Fire & Rescue * Pokken Tournament * Rabbids Land * Rapala Pro Bass Fishing * Rayman Legends * Resident Evil Revelations * Rise of the Guardians * Rodea: The Sky Soldier * Runbow * Scribblenauts Unmasked * Scribblenauts Unlimited * Shakedown Hawaii * Shantae: Half Genie Hero Risky Beats Edition * Shovel Knight * Sing Party * Skylanders Giants * Skylanders Imaginators Starter Pack * Skylanders Swap Force * Skylanders Superchargers * Skylanders Trap Team (updated thanks to Ant-Fan) * Smurfs 2, The (updated thanks to krslam) * Sniper Elite V2 * Snoopy's Grand Adventure * Sonic All-Stars Racing Transformed * Sonic Boom: Rise of Lyriq * Sonic Lost World * Splatoon * SpongeBob SquarePants: Plantkon's Robotic Revenge * Star Fox Zero * Star Fox Guard * SteamWorld Collection * Super Mario 3D World * Super Mario Maker * Super Smash Bros. for Wii U * Tank! Tank! Tank! * Tekken Tag Team Tournament 2 * Terraria * Tokyo Mirage FE * Tom Clancy's Splinter Cell: Blacklist * Transformers Prime * Transformers: Rise of the Dark Spark * Tumblestone * Turbo: Super Stunt Squad * The Voice: I Want You * Walking Dead: Survival Instinct, The * Watch Dogs * Warriors 3 Orochi Hyper * Wheel of Fortune * Wii Fit U * Wii Party U * Wii Sports Club * Wipeout: Create & Crash * Wipeout 3 (updated thanks to Ant-Fan) * The Wonderful 101 * Xenoblade Chronicles X * Yoshi's Woolly World * Your Shape: Fitness Evolved 2013 * Zombi U * Zumba Fitness World Party
  13. FireTiger

    AB front

    From the album: Alien Brigade

    © Jamie M Smith

  14. We're moving and downsizing, and I can't justify a dedicated gaming television any more This TV has great picture and solid Stereo sound. Only stopped using it as our regular TV when cable went fully digital. Fantastic TV for using with classic consoles, can connect multiple ones to it. Swivel stand, includes working (generic) remote. Inputs include S-Video, composite and cable, and also has outputs for recording or capture and cable pass-through. Best offer $100 or up, pick up only in the Chicago-land area as shipping costs would be prohibitive. It's the perfect showcase for your classic games!
  15. I have started doing some modding on my Game Gear about 2 months ago and its been pretty fun and exciting (successful LED backlight mod and battery replacement for the Powerback so far. WOOT!). I started looking into a 50hz/60hz mod for the GG VA1 board to play my PAL master system games on by following various posts switching the NTSC pin from the Sega 315-5535 to a 5V source. After going through the Service Manuals (http://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:service_manual_-_game_gear_va1.pdf) and other posts, I am having a very silly issue: Where is Pin 118 on the Sega 315-5535 IC? I see some possible spots on the other side of the chip, but I don't want to start chopping leads before knowing exactly which pin I'm sending a 5V signal to. I'm modifying a USA VA1 837-9024 Game Gear board. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I've tried some other communities to find this information and I've found the AtariAge community to be very helpful in the past. Take care guys !
  16. Since her sister Maria received new clothes and Stella received new clothes, it was only a matter of time. Download the Atari 5200 palette files here: Pam2XX_Palettes_20131108.zip The 'Pam' palette files are presented with the same options as the 'Maria' palette files. There is a "base" palette plus the following options: x0 = Saturation Increase x1 x2 = Gamma Increase and Saturation Deltas x3 x4 x5 = Gamma and Saturation Increase with Contrast Deltas x6 x7 x8 = Saturation Increase with Contrast Deltas x9 Also like the Maria and Stella palettes, we have Phase Shifts 24.7 through 27.7 degrees in 0.5 degree increments. In addition to palette files with the '*.pal' file extension, the complete set above is also presented with the '*.act' file extension (Used with Atari 5200 emulators such as Atari800Win Plus, Jum52, & kat5200). Phase Shifting examples follow utilizing the x0 [saturation increase only] NTSC palette in the following order... Pam247NTSCx0 --> Pam252NTSCx0 --> Pam257NTSCx0 --> Pam262NTSCx0 --> Pam267NTSCx0 --> Pam272NTSCx0 --> Pam277NTSCx0. Pole Position: Joust: The next few are highlighting the two ends of the phase shift spectrum and a logical 'middle' ground (See explanation below): Pam247NTSCx0 --> Pam262NTSCx0 --> Pam277NTSCx0 Astro Chase: Moon Patrol: Mr. Do's Castle: Ms. Pac-Man: Pitfall II: Here are examples showcasing the different options within each phase shift. Phase Shift 26.2 degrees is selected in this order: PAM262NTSC --> PAM262NTSCx0 --> PAM262NTSCx1 --> PAM262NTSCx2 --> PAM262NTSCx3 --> PAM262NTSCx4 --> PAM262NTSCx5 --> PAM262NTSCx6 --> PAM262NTSCx7 --> PAM262NTSCx8 --> PAM262NTSCx9 Frogger: Pitfall: Color Bars with Reference from PAM Diagnostic [sALT] Cart v1.1: Pam247NTSC --> Pam252NTSC --> Pam257NTSC --> Pam262NTSC --> Pam267NTSC --> Pam272NTSC --> Pam277NTSC. GTIA CHIP - NTSC C014805 Official Document Color Order: Atari 5200 Field Service Manual: Per the technical documents referenced above the following can be deduced: Directions were given for the color just below and above the (grey) reference bar to be within one shade of each other. Under the same reference document, directions are given for it to be the same color. Phase Shift 25.7 degrees - matching Hue 1x, 15x and the color below the reference grey bar fits making it the same color. Accounting for system 'warm-up'/phase shifting as well as the instructions for it to be within one shade of each other would make Phase Shift 26.2 a realistic logical choice. It also collaborates with the official document color order: Hue 1x = Gold, Hue 2x = Orange, Hue 15x/F$ = Light-Orange; Phase Shift 26.2 places Hue 15x/F$ between Hue 1x, gold and Hue 2x, orange; a light orange in color. Here is an alternative capture of the color bars from the PAM Diagnostic [sALT] Cart v1.1 with Phase Shift 26.2 degrees in place by utilizing the 'Pam262NTSC' palette within kat5200's NTSC video simulation mode along with a few game captures: (Click on the capture to remove some of the distortion) Hue 1x for NTSC is intended to be gold, not green-yellow/yellow-green. Gold is how Hue 1x appears under a CRT - the original and intended display device for the system. A green-yellow/yellow-green Hue 1x is how the NTSC 5200 palette is manipulated and modified (in part) under a modern flat panel (I.E. LCD/LED/Plasma) display. The above harmonizes with what has been documented for the Atari 2600 and Atari 7800 systems as well, regarding their NTSC color palette. Although there is no Atari 5200 PAL system the palettes offered in the download for the PAL region are theoretical ones based upon how the colors align under the Atari 7800 PAL system (Since Atari 5200 NTSC and Atari 7800 NTSC share essentially the same palette when viewed on a CRT). However, it should be noted that PAL 8-bit (400/800) Atari computer systems appear to provide the same - or an *extremely* similar - palette of NTSC Atari 5200 consoles displayed on a CRT. Additionally, that would also mean that Atari 8-bit NTSC and PAL palettes are the same (Or extremely similar) from at least the 'base' level. Once actually processed through display circuitry from their respective region as well as slight hardware system differences (There is an additional oscillator for 8-bit PAL systems driving color frequencies), other items such as NTSC color 'artifacting' would not be present under PAL. A thorough summary of Atari 2600/5200/7800 console system palettes is here.
  17. Ebay auction going now. 4 days left, bidding is already up to $51.00. If this is a game you are looking for then please place your bid. Also have a sealed copy in NM condition. I am going to leave that up to offers at the moment. Below is the Ebay auction. Happy Bidding!! eBay Auction -- Item Number: 150880460523
  18. Sprybug recently requested that I capture some video footage of a homebrew he was working on, Super Mario Bros 2600, to verify that it worked properly on real hardware. I have a video capture device for my PC that is capable of capturing analog composite or S-Video. I sometimes use it to capture gameplay footage directly from the console. Because my Atari doesn't output composite video, it is necessary to use an old VCR as a middle man. The VCR I am using is busted (in other words, it chews up VHS tapes and spits them back out) but the audio/video portions of it work fine. So, I proceed to connect the coax cable from the Atari to the VCR, and from the VCR to the TV. Next, I connect the A/V cables from the VCR to the capture device. It is a Hauppauge brand USB dongle which supports analog NTSC and PAL video formats, both S-Video and Composite. I set up the game and begin recording in standard NTSC definition 720x480i. Here is the result: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HF25v7LL5m8 The video feed is roach quality and almost entirely grayscale. I have used this capture device to record from both retro and modern consoles like NES and GameCube, and the colors always display flawlessly. At first I thought that the composite video (yellow cable) was to blame, so I turned the system back on, and switched the TV set to "game" (A/V) mode, disconnect the RCA cable from the capture device and plug it into the TV set. Once again, the colors were crystal clear and vibrant on the TV, ruling out the possibility of a bad cable. Why does the Hauppauge capture device work with all of my other consoles but not Atari?
  19. I'm still gathering all the bits to get classic gaming systems up in working order, and decided I'll probably go for an OSSC or Retrotink2 on my HDTV as opposed to using the Trinitron in my basement. I recall reading that HDMI 1080P sets can handle 50hz inputs - is this true? What would be the logistics of getting both NTSC and PAL games working? I'm really only interested in PAL for a handful of Mega Drive games that originated as Amiga ports (Chaos Engine, etc.)
  20. Download the palettes here [updated 8/30]: 2X7-PROSYSTEM_20130830.zip The '2X7-PROSYSTEM' palettes (25.7 degrees --> 26.7 degress --> 27.7 degrees)... NTSC: PAL: Why? Technically the phase shift of the 7800 is ~25.7; actually, 25.714 according to the math here... https://sites.google.com/site/atari7800wiki/rgb (Thank you Eric Ball). The reality though is most (all?) 7800 systems fluctuate the phase shift higher as the system 'warms up'; additionally there is a variable resistor which also impacts the ultimate end results. The color references affected the most - and consequently most noticeable - are values E$ and F$. At the 25.7 setting colors 1$ and F$ match near exact. To the naked eye they in fact look exact. According to the books this would be proper having a 180 degree color-burst resulting. However, even a new system I obtained within the last year does not stay at that degree. There is a deviation from it, resulting in the shift going higher than 25.7 degrees. The question is how much greater do we go? Simply stated, color F$ more realistically ends up between the hue of Color 1$ and 2$; darker than 1$, but lighter than 2$. If we set the phase two degrees higher (27.7) we end up with colors E$ and F$ as a near exact match of colors 1$ and 2$. Some systems, including one of my own, phases this much and even higher (~28.7) over several hours (To the point where E$ and F$ fall in between 2$ and 3$ in hue - and most other values almost look like they have shifted a complete row (I.E. 8$ starts to look like a 9$, 9$ starts to look like a A$, etc.); but now that is swinging the pendulum too far in the other direction. So, if 25.7 is technically accurate, but hardly remains the reality, and 27.7 brings too much of a phase shift to the palette, then a happy medium would be 26.7. Setting the phase to 26.7 we obtain a color F$ that is in between the hues of color 1$ and 2$. MESS, in fact, has F$ documented (Thank you Dan Boris) as a 'light orange' range, whereas 1$ is a 'gold' range and 2$ is a 'orange' range. Additionally, we obtain light browns from 1$, while now having darker browns set under F$. Looking at color E$ under the 26.7 setting, it falls right as a 'pea soup', the 'Linda Blair special', puke-ish green throughout; placing it in between a green and a brown color. Going back to 25.7 causes E$ to become a stronger green on the lower end, swinging the pendulum to 27.7 makes E$ a brown color. The often noted intension is for the E$ range to fall between a green and a brown; it is arguably better achieved at 26.7. The extensive work done in brightness, contrast, saturation with the literally hundreds of palettes created and viewed across half dozen displays, along with the input of the community, has helped achieved a nicely saturated and bright palette setting from the base values as shown above. That is easily adjusted and open to interpretation of course, so if you want something more/less saturated, brighter, etc...Just ask. Additionally, the "BASE" palettes are being included for those who perhaps just want the base values and/or like to self-adjust saturation, brightness, contrast, etc. BASE '2X7-PROSYSTEM' palettes (25.7 degrees --> 26.7 degrees --> 27.7 degrees)... NTSC: PAL: Unlike the GCCFINAL palettes, we are not looking to factor in a wide range of television tints or pot adjustments. These palettes presumes a properly calibrated/pot adjusted 7800 and a television which falls within a neutral tint setting - and expects similar from the monitor it is being displayed upon. It's almost a certainty that programming color choices were made on systems with a variety of phase settings as well. For instance, some games like Choplifter! and Midnight Mutants look better with a higher (27.7) phase shift, but others like Pole Position II and Joust look better with a lower (25.7) one. Here is a look at Choplifter! - (25.7 --> 26.7 --> 27.7): Notice how much better the sky and ground appear with a system that phase shifts higher. Here is a look at Joust - (25.7 --> 26.7 --> 27.7): Notice how bad the enemy bird wings look with a higher phase shift. They lose their green. Just to emphasize, the above are not utilizing any tint/hue control or manipulation. There is no manual changing of RGB values or proportions. This is not the same as a television display tint/hue control. This comes strictly from the console itself and is not a pot adjustment either. *Note to 7800 game developers: Avoid color E$ like the plague!* Interestingly enough, a 'perfect Fuji' (Enable the BIOS) demands '257-PROSYSTEM' - and it is the technically accurate ideal, if not actually experienced for a long duration of time. Here is the Fuji captured under NTSC (25.7 degrees --> 26.7 degrees --> 27.7 degrees): *The differences are likely less noticeable on a CRT especially when animated, but still worth noting* If you have a system that truly sticks to a 25.7 degree shift, it's covered here, as well as those going beyond, 26.7 degrees, up to 27.7 degrees. UPDATE 8/28: Received request for less saturated palettes. Lighter/less saturated palettes have been added. Here are the '2X7-PROSYSTEM-LT' palettes (25.7 degrees --> 26.7 degrees --> 27.7 degrees)... NTSC: PAL:
  21. As the title says... For my next project - not sure when it finally will be released - I need a beta tester with ntsc hardware, mainly to check if the colors are set right, but maybe some more testing on real ntsc hardware is needed too. So please tell me if you are ready to test on a real ntsc machine.
  22. Hi folks, my first post on this venerable forum. My teenage self from ~3 decades ago would probably be dismayed by knowing I've joined something with "Atari" in its name - I was a die hard ZX Spectrum/Commodore fan - but hey, times, they're a-changin' Anyway, I was wondering if anybody else here has experience with using CRT TVs for emulated micros. I'm using mostly libretro versions of assorted emus (Retropie on RPi 3B+) and it's a bit puzzling getting the display right - I'm confined to composite (I also do have an RGB mod but no compatible TV at the moment), and also to add to the problem, it's a NTSC set. I'm not 100% sure what are correct resolutions to use in the configs. I'm aiming for 1:1 pixels and artifact-free display - so far using these... Atari 800 - 640x480- native libretro setting: this looks pretty good actually Amstrad: 768x544 - it works fairly well despite being bigger than RPi 720x480 output, the border is sacrificed C64: lr-vice same as Amstrad: 768x544. Seems ok. ZX Spectrum: 640x480: this resolution kicks in when I disable border (to get rid of heavy NTSC artifacting) While these look reasonably good, they do not really match the resolutions from real machines I read about, eg C64 displaying 402x292 (or 320x200 with no border) http://codebase64.org/doku.php?id=base:visible_area Could this be improved somehow? Or are these really real resolutions? Is there any sort of way to display these without problems on NTSC as well? Games are either too fast in NTSC or jerky in PAL, plus on some micros the colours are out of whack. Even though some of the emus have option for NTSC machines.
  23. New palettes for ProSystem - Maria247, Maria252, Maria257, Maria262, Maria267, Maria272, & Maria277! Download them here: Maria2XX_Palettes_20131016.zip Not to be outdone by her older sister, Maria has received some new clothes as well. Like the Stella palettes, we have Phase Shifts 24.7 through 27.7 degrees in 0.5 degree increments. Unlike the Stella palettes under the Stella emulator, Maria has no easy way to make adjustments to the base values when being utilized under the ProSystem emulator, as many video options are not present. So, in addition to the base values, three varieties of intensity accompany the set. Also, the Maria palettes have different files for each region. NTSC and PAL regions are included. After further investigation and research, it appears what seems to be 'automatic' pot adjusting while the system is running is simply just the phase shifting. It is better understood and captured at a lower/cooler start (24.7 degrees) and watching via gradual increases of 0.5 degree. Previous palettes only offered phase shifts 25.7, 26.7, and 27.7. This set is much more complete and thorough in covering the 7800's hues and their respective phases on a CRT better than any prior releases. Screen captures to follow are in this order: Maria247 --> Maria252 --> Maria257 (aka 180 degrees colorburst) --> Maria262 --> Maria267 --> Maria272 --> Maria277 Color Charts (NTSC) Color Charts (PAL) Color Grids (NTSC) Color Grids (PAL) Following screen captures provide an example difference of intensity in this order: Maria262 --> Maria262x1 --> Maria262x2 --> Maria262x3 Donkey Kong XM Bentley Bear's Crystal Quest Here's the Phase shifting in action shown in the following order: Maria247 --> Maria252 --> Maria257 --> Maria262 --> Maria267 --> Maria272 --> Maria277 Joust Scrapyard Dog Enjoy.
  24. Thanks once again to RevEng, we finally have the Sentinel ROMs for the NTSC and PAL regions with a correct header. To quote RevEng directly: "It appears that the a78 header uses a "3" in the second cart-type byte, which translates to pokey+supergame. But the game appears to want ROM in the area that pokey is usually mapped in...change the "3" to a "2" (supergame only)" Here are the correct set header (*.a78) ROM files: Sentinel NTSC & PAL Correct Header.zip Keep in mind for Sentinel, the difficulty switch setting affects whether sound is off or on*. B - Left Position - Sound On A - Right Position - Sound Off Note too though, as far as I am aware of, there is no Atari 7800 emulator that simulates a light gun yet. *Thanks again to RevEng for reminding me of that..lol.
  25. I'd like to use my US TI 99 and other NTSC gear here in Germany, where PAL is standard. My big CRT TV can run both PAL and NTSC, but my small Commodore CRT monitor cannot. So I'm looking for the best way to run NTSC on a CRT monitor with a composite signal. (The F18A is great, but I'm looking for something else here.) 1. NTSC-compatible PAL CRT monitor with composite If there are any, I haven't found them. 2. composite NTSC-PAL converter This was my second thought, but the only converter available simply doesn't work. (Tested with two models on TI 99 and Pyuuta.) Do you know any working converters? 3. NTSC-VGA converter VGA CRT monitors are readily available. Does somebody have experience with converting to VGA? How is the resulting picture on a CRT? Finally, what are you using to view foreign sources?
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