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Found 32 results

  1. Hello! I have a question, is it possible to make NTSC atari 2600 roms to PAL (50) ? For example play Adventure II, Yar's return, Flag capture and rare games, what is only in NTSC on my Atari? I have unocart 2600 with SD, but scroll lines, when I use that games. Thank you.
  2. FireTiger

    AB front

    From the album: Alien Brigade

    © Jamie M Smith

  3. Hi y'all, and Happy New Year! I recently picked up a heavy 6-switcher on eBay, which had an AV mod fitted (by "Atarimania9", a UK seller from London). I am finding that all the carts which came with the console, are fine - but any new ones I buy (and I've purchased carts from about 8 different UK sellers) are ALL playing in black and white only?? So, could the problem be that I have an NTSC console (and supplied carts), but playing UK (PAL) carts is the issue? Cheers all, and best wishes,. Matt.
  4. Short and Sweet version... The most complete and diverse palettes available; including not only "tint/hue" but internal console "pot adjustments" as well which in part accounts for variances between systems and displays. A range of brilliance and saturation levels are included too. Grab the complete set with below description and explanation here: GCCFINALXX_20130624.zip *UPDATED 6/24* - Additional color logic/decode for neutral "pot" palettes and improved naming convention. Detailed version... The GCCFINALXX palettes offer a robust range of settings with much diversity regarding color control. It includes "tint" adjustment (as typical found on a display's end-user controls) as well as "pot" adjustment (Color tuning found inside the 7800 console). Additionally, there is a range of color brilliance and saturation settings from the raw/base levels to extreme levels. Here is a typical file name: "NTSC_GCCFINAL1G_XTRBRT_LOWSAT.pal" It describes the palette in the following four areas: I. Region II. Palette Family Pot and Tint/Hue Setting III. Brilliance Setting IV. Saturation Level I. REGION: The region difference is noted by either NTSC or PAL in the file name. II. PALETTE FAMILY POT / TINT SETTING The difference respecting the "pot adjustment" is noted by either number 1, 2, or 3 in the file name: 1 = More Blue to Red, Less Blue to Green. 2 = Neutral 3 = More Blue to Green, Less Blue to Red. The difference respecting the "tint/hue setting" is noted by either a letter G, N, or R. G = More Green N = Neutral R = More Red Complete Color Base line: GCCFINAL1G = TINT is more green / POT is more blue over red, less blue over green GCCFINAL2G = TINT is more green / POT is neutral GCCFINAL2G-ALT = TINT is more green / POT is neutral (Alternate color logic) GCCFINAL3G = TINT is more green / POT is more blue over green, less blue over red GCCFINAL1N = TINT is neutral / POT is more blue over red, less blue over green GCCFINAL2N = TINT is neutral / POT is neutral GCCFINAL2N-ALT = TINT is neutral / POT is neutral (Alternate color logic) GCCFINAL3N = TINT is neutral / POT is more blue over green, less blue over red GCCFINAL1R = TINT is more red / POT is more blue over red, less blue over green GCCFINAL2R = TINT is more red / POT is neutral GCCFINAL2R-ALT = TINT is more red / POT is neutral (Alternate color logic) GCCFINAL3R = TINT is more red / POT is more blue over green, less blue over red III. BRILLIANCE: The level of color brilliance or brightness is noted using the following: LOW = Base/Raw Level MED = Average Level XTR = Extreme Level Complete Brilliance Line (Least to Greatest) = LOWBRT, MEDBRT, XTRBRT IV. SATURATION: The level of color saturation is noted using the following: LOW = Base/Raw Level MED = Average Level XTR = Extreme Level Complete Saturation Line (Least to Greatest) = LOWSAT, MEDSAT, XTRSAT A few final thoughts...Keep in mind that your current display device (Computer monitor can have a slant/push) may result in you choosing a palette that could seem like an unlikely candidate or choice. For example, have you ever read a review where they says the monitor has, not a red, but a "pink push", or "too much pink"? The actual issue may be there is a stronger than expected or accustomed to blue over red ratio. In that scenario, you may want to counter it with one of the GCCFINAL3X palettes depending on how strong the monitor's slant/push is of "pink". Or if you have a display with a red push, you may want or/and need to counter it with one of the GCCFINALXG palettes. Then again, your current display may be perfectly color calibrated and it is the original 7800 system or device you play(ed) it on that leans or slants in a certain direction regarding colors as a result of the pot adjustment or television configuration. It's all factors to keep in mind when trying the select a palette that looks 'right' to you. Please note too, one palette may look just right for one game and very wrong for another. A few titles there is little noticeable changes (I.E. Dig Dug) among a slew of different palettes. In other titles, each palette will make a obvious and distinct difference (I.E. Xenophobe). ENJOY!
  5. Hello Atari owners and modders. I'm trying to add an audio / composite output on my "new" atari 2600 (NTSC 4 switch), but I can't obtain any image... The console worked yesterday with RF output, but with no sound and a really weird/dirty b&w image. That's why I decided to add an A/V mod to permanently solve the problem. I think I choose the cheaper solution: 2 resistances and 1 transistor, similar to the easier-7800-composite-video-mod My circuit is the same as the solution proposed by brighty83 for a PAL version here (down of the page):http://retro.mmgn.co...ari-2600-AV-Mod I found the same cicuit on ebay, sellers detail the process on their installation guides for NTSC versions: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FAtari-2600-7800-Composite-Video-Mod-Upgrade-Kit-DIY-%2F300592126324 (see Installation Guides for atari 2600 4 switch) or http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.fr%2FAtari-2600-A-V-Composite-Video-Mod-Kit-NTSC-PAL-DIY-%2F181042624250%3Fpt%3DLH_DefaultDomain_0%26hash%3Ditem2a26fb36fa installation guide: http://www.filedropp...stallationguide (page 10 for NTSC 4 switch) Here is the circuit (sorry for the poor image quality): Video out and GND ---> Video RCA Audio out and GND ---> Audio RCA As mentionned on guides for NTSC 4 switch, I removed the RF box, Q202 and R209: The sound works well, but no images, it's so sad... I don't know what to do, and I'm dying about playing with it, in good conditions I mean. Some of you tried this mod? any idea ? Fujisama
  6. Hello, I bought an Atari 2600 from a flea market today and since It didn't come with a power cord I have no idea whether It is PAL or NTSC. My question is, how can I know what kind of Atari 2600 I have without risking to break the thing down because of overcharge. Instead of a charger, It came with a cord that looks like It has a US socket. Please leave a response If you know something.
  7. I was reading flashjazzcat's thread about his GUI project and saw his screenshots, and it got me thinking about artifacting (again). Artifacting, for those who aren't familiar with the term, is the effect on NTSC systems with a composite monitor where the LUM signal interferes with the COLOR signal, which causes half-size pixels to display with a colored "fringe". If you draw a whole row of even-numbered or odd-numbered pixels, you get one of two "fake" colors. By setting the background color to black and the foreground to white (or vice-versa), the effect is most pronounced. Anyway what got me thinking about it is, FJC showed (I believe) an 800XL with purple/green artifacting, and a 65XE with blue/orange. My XEGS does purple/green, and my old (long-dead) 800XL did blue/orange. I've also heard of yellow/blue though I've never seen it. So I'm wondering: what actually determines the color of the artifact? I doubt it's the (solely) IC because swapping GTIAs doesn't seem to affect it (with my limited sample set anyway). To answer this mystery I dug into the GTIA (and CGIA) data sheets to figure out exactly how this color timing works. Hope this comes out right: _____________ / LUM ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------X LUM 0-F |<----------------------------------------------------------------------------------->|\_____________ | T(lum1) = Luma output delay (max 450ns) ___ | ________________________ __________________ \| / \ / OSC \ OSC low 140nS / OSC high 140nS \ / |\________________________/ \________________________/ | | T(inv) = Color output delay (max 190nS) |<-------------------------------->| ______________________________________|_________________________________________________________________ |/ COL / Color Reg = 0 (No color output) _____________________________________/ _________________________________________________________________________________________________ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ COL \ 1 \ 2 \ 3 \ 4 \ 5 \ 6 \ 7 \ 8 \ 9 \ A \ B \ C \ D \ E \ F \ \___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\___\____ |<->| Δt = 16-25 You can see from the diagram the same thing I realized: the luma output for a given color clock comes much later than the color output! This seeming discrepancy is possibly explained by delay introduced by capacitance in the color output circuitry, which can work as an AC delay (technically [in a perfect capacitor] it causes the signal to be changed into the derivative of its input, for any calculus people out there). Now one thing you may be thinking is "What about the color adjustment pot?", which is a valid question. The CADJ signal is a voltage input to C/GTIA which adjusts the delta between different colors. Because this affects the delta, there is only one setting that is "right": too high or too low and your spectrum goes either above or below 360°. So given that only one setting is "right", it follows that you cannot change artifacting using this input without actually making "normal" colors incorrect. As you can see, every hue value corresponds to a 16-25 nS delay; thus a difference in delay of as little as 10s of nanoseconds in either the luma or color output can, without impacting normal color output, dramatically change the artifacting colors observed. So take this data and combine the fact that just about every Atari model (and, thanks to widespread modification, often multiple systems in the same model) has a different color output circuit, and the conclusion I come to is that the video output circuit used is a primary (if not THE primary) influence on the artifacting output. Interestingly when I added color output to my 600XL, I used the simple XE color circuit, and as a test I created a simple "composite" output by bridging the chroma to the luma via a capacitor, and observed the output - and the output was purple/green just like my XEGS with the identical color circuit. The only problem with my theory is the observations of FJC's demo output. He showed his 65XE with blue/orange and his XL with purple/green! This would seem to poke a big hole in my theory that I cannot explain - so FJC, did you happen to mix up the labels on those two screen grabs?
  8. Since her sister Maria received new clothes and Stella received new clothes, it was only a matter of time. Download the Atari 5200 palette files here: Pam2XX_Palettes_20131108.zip The 'Pam' palette files are presented with the same options as the 'Maria' palette files. There is a "base" palette plus the following options: x0 = Saturation Increase x1 x2 = Gamma Increase and Saturation Deltas x3 x4 x5 = Gamma and Saturation Increase with Contrast Deltas x6 x7 x8 = Saturation Increase with Contrast Deltas x9 Also like the Maria and Stella palettes, we have Phase Shifts 24.7 through 27.7 degrees in 0.5 degree increments. In addition to palette files with the '*.pal' file extension, the complete set above is also presented with the '*.act' file extension (Used with Atari 5200 emulators such as Atari800Win Plus, Jum52, & kat5200). Phase Shifting examples follow utilizing the x0 [saturation increase only] NTSC palette in the following order... Pam247NTSCx0 --> Pam252NTSCx0 --> Pam257NTSCx0 --> Pam262NTSCx0 --> Pam267NTSCx0 --> Pam272NTSCx0 --> Pam277NTSCx0. Pole Position: Joust: The next few are highlighting the two ends of the phase shift spectrum and a logical 'middle' ground (See explanation below): Pam247NTSCx0 --> Pam262NTSCx0 --> Pam277NTSCx0 Astro Chase: Moon Patrol: Mr. Do's Castle: Ms. Pac-Man: Pitfall II: Here are examples showcasing the different options within each phase shift. Phase Shift 26.2 degrees is selected in this order: PAM262NTSC --> PAM262NTSCx0 --> PAM262NTSCx1 --> PAM262NTSCx2 --> PAM262NTSCx3 --> PAM262NTSCx4 --> PAM262NTSCx5 --> PAM262NTSCx6 --> PAM262NTSCx7 --> PAM262NTSCx8 --> PAM262NTSCx9 Frogger: Pitfall: Color Bars with Reference from PAM Diagnostic [sALT] Cart v1.1: Pam247NTSC --> Pam252NTSC --> Pam257NTSC --> Pam262NTSC --> Pam267NTSC --> Pam272NTSC --> Pam277NTSC. GTIA CHIP - NTSC C014805 Official Document Color Order: Atari 5200 Field Service Manual: Per the technical documents referenced above the following can be deduced: Directions were given for the color just below and above the (grey) reference bar to be within one shade of each other. Under the same reference document, directions are given for it to be the same color. Phase Shift 25.7 degrees - matching Hue 1x, 15x and the color below the reference grey bar fits making it the same color. Accounting for system 'warm-up'/phase shifting as well as the instructions for it to be within one shade of each other would make Phase Shift 26.2 a realistic logical choice. It also collaborates with the official document color order: Hue 1x = Gold, Hue 2x = Orange, Hue 15x/F$ = Light-Orange; Phase Shift 26.2 places Hue 15x/F$ between Hue 1x, gold and Hue 2x, orange; a light orange in color. Here is an alternative capture of the color bars from the PAM Diagnostic [sALT] Cart v1.1 with Phase Shift 26.2 degrees in place by utilizing the 'Pam262NTSC' palette within kat5200's NTSC video simulation mode along with a few game captures: (Click on the capture to remove some of the distortion) Hue 1x for NTSC is intended to be gold, not green-yellow/yellow-green. Gold is how Hue 1x appears under a CRT - the original and intended display device for the system. A green-yellow/yellow-green Hue 1x is how the NTSC 5200 palette is manipulated and modified (in part) under a modern flat panel (I.E. LCD/LED/Plasma) display. The above harmonizes with what has been documented for the Atari 2600 and Atari 7800 systems as well, regarding their NTSC color palette. Although there is no Atari 5200 PAL system the palettes offered in the download for the PAL region are theoretical ones based upon how the colors align under the Atari 7800 PAL system (Since Atari 5200 NTSC and Atari 7800 NTSC share essentially the same palette when viewed on a CRT). However, it should be noted that PAL 8-bit (400/800) Atari computer systems appear to provide the same - or an *extremely* similar - palette of NTSC Atari 5200 consoles displayed on a CRT. Additionally, that would also mean that Atari 8-bit NTSC and PAL palettes are the same (Or extremely similar) from at least the 'base' level. Once actually processed through display circuitry from their respective region as well as slight hardware system differences (There is an additional oscillator for 8-bit PAL systems driving color frequencies), other items such as NTSC color 'artifacting' would not be present under PAL. A thorough summary of Atari 2600/5200/7800 console system palettes is here.
  9. Sprybug recently requested that I capture some video footage of a homebrew he was working on, Super Mario Bros 2600, to verify that it worked properly on real hardware. I have a video capture device for my PC that is capable of capturing analog composite or S-Video. I sometimes use it to capture gameplay footage directly from the console. Because my Atari doesn't output composite video, it is necessary to use an old VCR as a middle man. The VCR I am using is busted (in other words, it chews up VHS tapes and spits them back out) but the audio/video portions of it work fine. So, I proceed to connect the coax cable from the Atari to the VCR, and from the VCR to the TV. Next, I connect the A/V cables from the VCR to the capture device. It is a Hauppauge brand USB dongle which supports analog NTSC and PAL video formats, both S-Video and Composite. I set up the game and begin recording in standard NTSC definition 720x480i. Here is the result: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HF25v7LL5m8 The video feed is roach quality and almost entirely grayscale. I have used this capture device to record from both retro and modern consoles like NES and GameCube, and the colors always display flawlessly. At first I thought that the composite video (yellow cable) was to blame, so I turned the system back on, and switched the TV set to "game" (A/V) mode, disconnect the RCA cable from the capture device and plug it into the TV set. Once again, the colors were crystal clear and vibrant on the TV, ruling out the possibility of a bad cable. Why does the Hauppauge capture device work with all of my other consoles but not Atari?
  10. Download the palettes here [updated 8/30]: 2X7-PROSYSTEM_20130830.zip The '2X7-PROSYSTEM' palettes (25.7 degrees --> 26.7 degress --> 27.7 degrees)... NTSC: PAL: Why? Technically the phase shift of the 7800 is ~25.7; actually, 25.714 according to the math here... https://sites.google.com/site/atari7800wiki/rgb (Thank you Eric Ball). The reality though is most (all?) 7800 systems fluctuate the phase shift higher as the system 'warms up'; additionally there is a variable resistor which also impacts the ultimate end results. The color references affected the most - and consequently most noticeable - are values E$ and F$. At the 25.7 setting colors 1$ and F$ match near exact. To the naked eye they in fact look exact. According to the books this would be proper having a 180 degree color-burst resulting. However, even a new system I obtained within the last year does not stay at that degree. There is a deviation from it, resulting in the shift going higher than 25.7 degrees. The question is how much greater do we go? Simply stated, color F$ more realistically ends up between the hue of Color 1$ and 2$; darker than 1$, but lighter than 2$. If we set the phase two degrees higher (27.7) we end up with colors E$ and F$ as a near exact match of colors 1$ and 2$. Some systems, including one of my own, phases this much and even higher (~28.7) over several hours (To the point where E$ and F$ fall in between 2$ and 3$ in hue - and most other values almost look like they have shifted a complete row (I.E. 8$ starts to look like a 9$, 9$ starts to look like a A$, etc.); but now that is swinging the pendulum too far in the other direction. So, if 25.7 is technically accurate, but hardly remains the reality, and 27.7 brings too much of a phase shift to the palette, then a happy medium would be 26.7. Setting the phase to 26.7 we obtain a color F$ that is in between the hues of color 1$ and 2$. MESS, in fact, has F$ documented (Thank you Dan Boris) as a 'light orange' range, whereas 1$ is a 'gold' range and 2$ is a 'orange' range. Additionally, we obtain light browns from 1$, while now having darker browns set under F$. Looking at color E$ under the 26.7 setting, it falls right as a 'pea soup', the 'Linda Blair special', puke-ish green throughout; placing it in between a green and a brown color. Going back to 25.7 causes E$ to become a stronger green on the lower end, swinging the pendulum to 27.7 makes E$ a brown color. The often noted intension is for the E$ range to fall between a green and a brown; it is arguably better achieved at 26.7. The extensive work done in brightness, contrast, saturation with the literally hundreds of palettes created and viewed across half dozen displays, along with the input of the community, has helped achieved a nicely saturated and bright palette setting from the base values as shown above. That is easily adjusted and open to interpretation of course, so if you want something more/less saturated, brighter, etc...Just ask. Additionally, the "BASE" palettes are being included for those who perhaps just want the base values and/or like to self-adjust saturation, brightness, contrast, etc. BASE '2X7-PROSYSTEM' palettes (25.7 degrees --> 26.7 degrees --> 27.7 degrees)... NTSC: PAL: Unlike the GCCFINAL palettes, we are not looking to factor in a wide range of television tints or pot adjustments. These palettes presumes a properly calibrated/pot adjusted 7800 and a television which falls within a neutral tint setting - and expects similar from the monitor it is being displayed upon. It's almost a certainty that programming color choices were made on systems with a variety of phase settings as well. For instance, some games like Choplifter! and Midnight Mutants look better with a higher (27.7) phase shift, but others like Pole Position II and Joust look better with a lower (25.7) one. Here is a look at Choplifter! - (25.7 --> 26.7 --> 27.7): Notice how much better the sky and ground appear with a system that phase shifts higher. Here is a look at Joust - (25.7 --> 26.7 --> 27.7): Notice how bad the enemy bird wings look with a higher phase shift. They lose their green. Just to emphasize, the above are not utilizing any tint/hue control or manipulation. There is no manual changing of RGB values or proportions. This is not the same as a television display tint/hue control. This comes strictly from the console itself and is not a pot adjustment either. *Note to 7800 game developers: Avoid color E$ like the plague!* Interestingly enough, a 'perfect Fuji' (Enable the BIOS) demands '257-PROSYSTEM' - and it is the technically accurate ideal, if not actually experienced for a long duration of time. Here is the Fuji captured under NTSC (25.7 degrees --> 26.7 degrees --> 27.7 degrees): *The differences are likely less noticeable on a CRT especially when animated, but still worth noting* If you have a system that truly sticks to a 25.7 degree shift, it's covered here, as well as those going beyond, 26.7 degrees, up to 27.7 degrees. UPDATE 8/28: Received request for less saturated palettes. Lighter/less saturated palettes have been added. Here are the '2X7-PROSYSTEM-LT' palettes (25.7 degrees --> 26.7 degrees --> 27.7 degrees)... NTSC: PAL:
  11. Ebay auction going now. 4 days left, bidding is already up to $51.00. If this is a game you are looking for then please place your bid. Also have a sealed copy in NM condition. I am going to leave that up to offers at the moment. Below is the Ebay auction. Happy Bidding!! eBay Auction -- Item Number: 150880460523
  12. I'm still gathering all the bits to get classic gaming systems up in working order, and decided I'll probably go for an OSSC or Retrotink2 on my HDTV as opposed to using the Trinitron in my basement. I recall reading that HDMI 1080P sets can handle 50hz inputs - is this true? What would be the logistics of getting both NTSC and PAL games working? I'm really only interested in PAL for a handful of Mega Drive games that originated as Amiga ports (Chaos Engine, etc.)
  13. As the title says... For my next project - not sure when it finally will be released - I need a beta tester with ntsc hardware, mainly to check if the colors are set right, but maybe some more testing on real ntsc hardware is needed too. So please tell me if you are ready to test on a real ntsc machine.
  14. I have started doing some modding on my Game Gear about 2 months ago and its been pretty fun and exciting (successful LED backlight mod and battery replacement for the Powerback so far. WOOT!). I started looking into a 50hz/60hz mod for the GG VA1 board to play my PAL master system games on by following various posts switching the NTSC pin from the Sega 315-5535 to a 5V source. After going through the Service Manuals (http://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:service_manual_-_game_gear_va1.pdf) and other posts, I am having a very silly issue: Where is Pin 118 on the Sega 315-5535 IC? I see some possible spots on the other side of the chip, but I don't want to start chopping leads before knowing exactly which pin I'm sending a 5V signal to. I'm modifying a USA VA1 837-9024 Game Gear board. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I've tried some other communities to find this information and I've found the AtariAge community to be very helpful in the past. Take care guys !
  15. From the album: Atari 2600 Gameplay on YPbPr Component

    Gameplay of Pitfall! NTSC version Played on my Atari 2600 4-Switch Woodgrain Console modded using Tim Worthington's 2600 RGB Mod showing it in YPbPr Component Video Output.

    © SavyIsJoshoArts aka Activision Man

  16. FireTiger

    AB Pins

    From the album: Alien Brigade

    © Jamie M Smith

  17. FireTiger

    AB Top

    From the album: Alien Brigade

    © Jamie M Smith

  18. New palettes for ProSystem - Maria247, Maria252, Maria257, Maria262, Maria267, Maria272, & Maria277! Download them here: Maria2XX_Palettes_20131016.zip Not to be outdone by her older sister, Maria has received some new clothes as well. Like the Stella palettes, we have Phase Shifts 24.7 through 27.7 degrees in 0.5 degree increments. Unlike the Stella palettes under the Stella emulator, Maria has no easy way to make adjustments to the base values when being utilized under the ProSystem emulator, as many video options are not present. So, in addition to the base values, three varieties of intensity accompany the set. Also, the Maria palettes have different files for each region. NTSC and PAL regions are included. After further investigation and research, it appears what seems to be 'automatic' pot adjusting while the system is running is simply just the phase shifting. It is better understood and captured at a lower/cooler start (24.7 degrees) and watching via gradual increases of 0.5 degree. Previous palettes only offered phase shifts 25.7, 26.7, and 27.7. This set is much more complete and thorough in covering the 7800's hues and their respective phases on a CRT better than any prior releases. Screen captures to follow are in this order: Maria247 --> Maria252 --> Maria257 (aka 180 degrees colorburst) --> Maria262 --> Maria267 --> Maria272 --> Maria277 Color Charts (NTSC) Color Charts (PAL) Color Grids (NTSC) Color Grids (PAL) Following screen captures provide an example difference of intensity in this order: Maria262 --> Maria262x1 --> Maria262x2 --> Maria262x3 Donkey Kong XM Bentley Bear's Crystal Quest Here's the Phase shifting in action shown in the following order: Maria247 --> Maria252 --> Maria257 --> Maria262 --> Maria267 --> Maria272 --> Maria277 Joust Scrapyard Dog Enjoy.
  19. Already having discussed the problem we have (http://www.atariage....2/#entry2659435) when trying to use the raw video output, straight RGB values coming from a NTSC A7800, in a palette for emulators which lack proper NTSC video emulation (especially YUV/YIQ support), what will be accomplished here is taking YUV/YIQ achieved colors turn them 'vibrant' and make hard RGB values from them. In that same thread here... http://www.atariage....2/#entry2659624... you'll notice that true NTSC/YIQ/YUV simulation created multiple shade for each color value. So we will take some of the greater values and make a VIBRANT palette from it. The palette will be bright and brilliant respecting red against green, and blue will be stronger relative to the RAW palette or even a default derived YUV palette. Again this is to simulate the colors many NTSC users likely saw from their analog CRT TV's favoring more vibrance. This end result being limited with just an RGB palette and no further video controls working off the RAW palette from the previously linked thread. MESS is closer to ideal: http://www.atariage....2/#entry2660238 but I know many like using ProSystem and wanted to provide this for the community. Here is the NTSC_A7800_YUV_VIBRANT palette and color chart: NTSC_A7800_YUV_VIBRANT.zip
  20. Hi folks, my first post on this venerable forum. My teenage self from ~3 decades ago would probably be dismayed by knowing I've joined something with "Atari" in its name - I was a die hard ZX Spectrum/Commodore fan - but hey, times, they're a-changin' Anyway, I was wondering if anybody else here has experience with using CRT TVs for emulated micros. I'm using mostly libretro versions of assorted emus (Retropie on RPi 3B+) and it's a bit puzzling getting the display right - I'm confined to composite (I also do have an RGB mod but no compatible TV at the moment), and also to add to the problem, it's a NTSC set. I'm not 100% sure what are correct resolutions to use in the configs. I'm aiming for 1:1 pixels and artifact-free display - so far using these... Atari 800 - 640x480- native libretro setting: this looks pretty good actually Amstrad: 768x544 - it works fairly well despite being bigger than RPi 720x480 output, the border is sacrificed C64: lr-vice same as Amstrad: 768x544. Seems ok. ZX Spectrum: 640x480: this resolution kicks in when I disable border (to get rid of heavy NTSC artifacting) While these look reasonably good, they do not really match the resolutions from real machines I read about, eg C64 displaying 402x292 (or 320x200 with no border) http://codebase64.org/doku.php?id=base:visible_area Could this be improved somehow? Or are these really real resolutions? Is there any sort of way to display these without problems on NTSC as well? Games are either too fast in NTSC or jerky in PAL, plus on some micros the colours are out of whack. Even though some of the emus have option for NTSC machines.
  21. I'd like to use my US TI 99 and other NTSC gear here in Germany, where PAL is standard. My big CRT TV can run both PAL and NTSC, but my small Commodore CRT monitor cannot. So I'm looking for the best way to run NTSC on a CRT monitor with a composite signal. (The F18A is great, but I'm looking for something else here.) 1. NTSC-compatible PAL CRT monitor with composite If there are any, I haven't found them. 2. composite NTSC-PAL converter This was my second thought, but the only converter available simply doesn't work. (Tested with two models on TI 99 and Pyuuta.) Do you know any working converters? 3. NTSC-VGA converter VGA CRT monitors are readily available. Does somebody have experience with converting to VGA? How is the resulting picture on a CRT? Finally, what are you using to view foreign sources?
  22. Thanks once again to RevEng, we finally have the Sentinel ROMs for the NTSC and PAL regions with a correct header. To quote RevEng directly: "It appears that the a78 header uses a "3" in the second cart-type byte, which translates to pokey+supergame. But the game appears to want ROM in the area that pokey is usually mapped in...change the "3" to a "2" (supergame only)" Here are the correct set header (*.a78) ROM files: Sentinel NTSC & PAL Correct Header.zip Keep in mind for Sentinel, the difficulty switch setting affects whether sound is off or on*. B - Left Position - Sound On A - Right Position - Sound Off Note too though, as far as I am aware of, there is no Atari 7800 emulator that simulates a light gun yet. *Thanks again to RevEng for reminding me of that..lol.
  23. Hi All, I did the composite video mod a while ago on my Atari 2600. Didn't think so much of it. All the cartridges seem to work ok. A little bit of tearing/visible lines on the very left of screen. However, it does work and play fine. Played a round of Combat and the number at the top were fine. Anyway, when I use my Harmony cartridge. I can barely read the text. However, playing the games everything seems to play as the original cartridges do. Not sure if there is a problem with the cartridge, the mod itself, etc... Anyone else experience this? BTW, I am in NTSC land. Thanks.
  24. One Atari 800 from storage from the BBS operator of the Action Annex BBS. I have been an electronics technician for 25 years and serviced equipment up to server level contracts. The 800 has 48KB and monitor cable and power supply. Repaired the integrated power supply caps and regulators. One has the transformer built into the chassis with a fan added with vent holes in the RF shield and plastic ram card holder. The vented Atari had the pokey chip replaced with a known good working spare. I cleaned the case, completely disassembled and visually inspected. They were in a storage unit in a box for more than 10 years. This 800 have been used for a month since coming out of storage from a friend who had to hastily move in with relatives across the US. It is a NTSC OS B model. I was already stood up on Ebay for international buyers. So, no. If you want it, get a friend in the US to buy it for you and ship it to you. Ships from zip code 98686 at 15 lbs. This one does not have a cartridge door. It has the chassis switch bypassed to the closed position. So you use the power switch to cycle the machine and switch cartridges. The vented "Venti" 800 still has the 800 power socket if you want to use an external power supply instead of the internal transformer later. You will have to remove the internal transformer if you want to go external. The internal transformer is also fuse protected and chassis grounded to the board for safety. I am anal about that. It is rated from 115VAC 60 hz use only. The fan is powered by a small 12VDC wall wart on it's own AC cord. It has been running for two months solid with no hangs, lockups, since the power supplies were rebuilt. Ran through many .ATR images, created and archived 400 floppy images for archiving of the BBS disks. If you want the set of ram cartridge cases for the Venti Atari, I can throw them in. Includes a 5 pin din to luma/chroma or composite video cable, and mono audio of course. 75 + shipping I have another Atari 800 for parts going up for sale soon.
  25. New palettes for Stella - Stella257 & Stella267. Both palettes contain updated NTSC and PAL colors, SECAM retains the standard Stella settings. Stella257 has the 180 degree colorburst in place resulting in 1$ and F$ being a near exact match (Visually they will appear exact to most). Stella267 closer represents the standard Stella palette having a slight phase shift from the 180 degree colorburst, providing the most noticeable change to F$ - darker browns in comparison to 1$, and E$ - giving a more neutral balance between a green and brown hue, instead of a stronger green presence under Stella257. There is no manipulation of contrast, brightness, or gamma for these palettes. Stella has internal controls to handle that Download the palettes here: Stella2XX_Palettes_20130911.zip Screen captures to follow (click pics to enlarge and remove distortion) are in this order: Stella (Standard) --> Stella257 --> Stella267 Color Bar Generation (1984) (VideoSoft) (NTSC) 'Title Screen' & 'Color Bars' [Composite mode @ Stella default values] Color Test (26-09-2002) (Eckhard Stolberg) (NTSC) [Composite mode @ Stella default values] [TV mode disabled (AKA RGB)] Color Test (26-09-2002) (Eckhard Stolberg) (PAL) [Composite mode @ Stella default values] [TV mode disabled (AKA RGB)] Enjoy.
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