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Found 15 results

  1. Every Christmas I buy my kids disposable printers. $20, $30, $49.... A cheap way so they can print out crap whenever they want. Most of them come with built in scanners. I used to just throw them out because they were so cheap and I would buy a new one next time around or even have a few sitting in boxes in case of emergencies. BTW, the reason is not only because they are so cheap. Ink is purposely expensive and they even went as far as to put a chip inside the ink so you can't refill them. The EU sued Epson over this and won. Point is they make money off the Ink while the printer themselves are just cheap garbage that work. I remember when Scanners would be $200 and use the parallel port same as Printers. And so we get to why... This time around I gutted my printers, 3 of them just sitting and collecting dust for the garbage man... In them I found a few screws because these are mostly snap together. I now have three drive belts, 6 stepper motors, 3 WIFI chips, 3 controller boards and assortment of gears and springs. A lot of surface mount parts I can scrap from the PCB's, Ribbon cables, Optical counters, Print Heads, LED's, Push Buttons... 3 pieces of tempered glass that can be a replacement for a picture frame. Just as an example. If you are into robots, Arduino, Raspberry Pi or whatever there are a ton of parts you now don't have to buy online. Even the 24v power supply's are snap in. As a matter of fact, don't throw out any electronic device if you are into this sort of hobby. An old TV, as well as new, can provide parts galore especially CAPS. You can even find flash memory from Smart TV's As always, safety first. Don't be stupid and do something if you haven't a clue. I have been zapped a few times and I am surprised why I am even alive after all these years with what I have been through. Till next time.
  2. Just wondering if these parts commonly go on a intv model 1. Mine works but the board is black. It's the two black parts. Just want to know in case I have to order parts in the future.
  3. Okay this isn't necessarily the right forum for this question but it's the closest I can think of where someone might actually know what I'm talking about and have an answer. So if you open up a typical Atari 2600 joystick, the wires that connect to the circuit board have (on the end of them) a tiny clamp which slides onto a trace on the board. Sometimes when I open up a joystick to repair it this is broken. I want to order some replacements. I can't seem to figure out what this part is called in order to search for it. Example: The closest I can find is a search for "wire crimps" from mouser.com but none of those look quite right.
  4. Hi everyone, I'm new here but I am a long time Atari collector and have always wanted to join this forum. anyways, I have an issue on my hands in the form of a beat up 4-port 5200 I just picked up. I got this thing for 5$, it came with the controllers and console, that's it. I don't have any more 5200s so I had to buy a switch box and a power supply. I just got all that in today and tested it, and I'm getting nothing, no sound, and no video. I already measured the supply and it looks good and the switch box seems to be outputting the correct voltage and has a reassuring spark. I heard something about different 5200s using different power supplies, I bought one that says 9.3 VDC (I hope that's ok.) I just don't know what to test next or where to go, the red led doesn't even light up when I turn it on. the switch is really gummy but I don't know which points to jump to bypass it. please help with my 5200, thanks!
  5. I have an Atari 5200 Trak-Ball that won't move the cursor UP...everything else on it works flawlessly, all the fire buttons, auxiliary buttons, keypad buttons, and the cursor movements of left, right, and down. It just won't move the cursor UP. I am looking for parts to fix this problem. Anyone with any ideas, any parts, a CX-53 Trak-Ball that has other problems but the cursor moves in ALL directions (I'd be willing to buy it from you for the parts), any of these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. - rolccone (Ed)
  6. I downloaded the free LTspice IV program a couple of years ago, thinking to use it to build a simulation of the TIA. Not being an engineer or electrician, I quickly found that it was WAY over my head. Specifically, I had virtually no clue about what to enter for the different parameters-- for example, it's very simple to pick a resistor and put it on your schematic, but you either need to pick an existing resistor from the library or enter the resistance, tolerance, and power rating yourself. Fortunately, I found some of this information in the parts listing included in the 2600 field service manual-- for example, it lists the resistance and power rating for each resistor, but says nothing about the tolerance. I was thinking that if I knew who manufactured the parts (or equivalent replacements), it might help me find existing definitions of those parts that I can download and use with LTspice IV. Does anyone know specific present-day companies that make resistors, capacitors, transistors, etc. that can be used as replacements for the Atari 2600's parts? Second, I recently decided to model the 2600's oscillator from the schematic for the 2600 (as opposed to the 2600A, which uses a simpler design for the oscillator). I chose the XTAL symbol for the crystal, but have no idea what the parameters should be. LTspice IV needs to know the capacitance, voltage rating, RMS current rating, equivalent series resistance, equivalent series inductance, equivalent parallel resistance, and equivalent parallel capacitance. Holy cow! All the parts list says is that it's a 3.579575 MHz crystal. I'd already given up on trying to model the TIA schematics in LTspice IV, and resorted to using an Excel spreadsheet to model the TIA-- which works pretty well for what I wanted; the biggest hurdles were teaching myself how to read and understand the schematics (which I've gotten reasonably good at), and figuring out how to eliminate problems caused by circular references (which I was able to do). My spreadsheet simulations don't show any timing delays due to signal propagation delays or gate delays, but they do let me follow the flow of the signals and see how everything works. Now I decided to take another stab at learning to use LTspice IV to model the oscillator and the sound filters on the motherboard. At the moment my primary interest is in the sound generation, and I've got all the relevant portions of the TIA done in Excel spreadsheets, but I'd like to graduate to LTspice IV if possible, and I figured the oscillator would be a good place to start-- because it really is where everything starts (since the signal that feeds into XTAL or OSC-- TIA pin 11-- is used to get the PHI-0 signal, CLK signal, H-PHI-1 and H-PHI-2 signals, etc.), and also because the oscillator circuitry is fairly small and self-contained (I'm not sure about where the oscillator circuitry and the color delay circuitry are joined together, but they're separated in the 2600A design, so I'm just going to leave out the color delay stuff). Even if I decide to just use the 2600A schematics (I'd actually like to model the oscillator for both the 2600 and 2600A for comparison), I still need to know what the parameters for the XTAL symbol should be, and that's where I'm stuck. Any suggestions or guidance would be appreciated-- although this project is just for fun, so if I can't get it off the ground because it's too much for my meager abilities, then no biggie!
  7. Hello Everyone, I recently got an Atari 800 computer and it is missing the down arrow key. I have googled around a bit and have had no luck finding anyone that sells them, so a buddy of mine recommended asking if anyone here knew where I could get one. Any ideas? Thanks in advance! Robert Santellan AKA Your Geeky Tipster
  8. I recently bought a broken intellivision off of eBay, and after messing around with it i believe that the problem is the CPU. I don't have a working unit, or any other units for that matter. I was hoping i could find a new cpu (preferably a whole board, in case there is any other problems with it) from someone on this form. I really want to try and play some intv games, especially since they are cheap.
  9. PeBo

    CX10 and CX 40 parts

    If no one on these forums has any of these, would appreciate being pointed in the right direction to find them (or instructions on how to navigate the Best Electronics site to actually BUY something (or even FIND CX10 parts)!) I am looking for: - Replacement springs (x5) for a CX10 Heavy Sixer (will take larger quantity if required) - Plastic board (not sure what it's called) that CX10 springs fit into and that covers the PCB to depress the metal domes. (x1) - Button springs (x2) for CX40 - Replacement posts ((white post with ring on bottom that slides inside the rubber sleeve (x4)) for CX40 And if someone has one for sale(ya right)... a beige (grey?) CX40 as released with the XE game console. Will require shipping to Canada.
  10. This is a strange motherboard, runs for about two hours then locks up with video and audio random scrambles on the screen. When powered cycle it will run normally for another 1-2 hours. I tried swapping out the OS card, RAM, and POKEY with known working chips. The board was cleaned and so was the keyboard. Case was cleaned. A good candidate for retrobrite. It might be one electrolytic cap on the middle left of the main board that needs replacement. The keyboard port works, video port works, SIO port works, all the joystick ports work. Includes keyboard, power socket works. The electrolytc caps, and regulators on the power supply board were replaced and tested ok for voltages. Shipping from 98686 17lbs.
  11. I am looking for a donor 800XL, specifically one made by Chelco. Mainly looking for the plastic enclosure (both halves ideally, but upper half is my main concern - preferably non-yellowed), and the RF shield parts. If it's a complete non-working 800XL that's OK too. I think one of the main identifying signs is a black serial number label on the bottom, with a Hong Kong country of origin. The plastics will be stamped CHELCO inside, and the PCB itself will also say Chelco (see photos).
  12. I have a spare ColecoVision controller that has a non-working keypad, which I have been unable to repair. I was wondering if anyone has a keypad (not the entire controller) they are willing to part with. I'm in Canada.
  13. Is there a good source for Apple II parts and games other than eBay? Also, is anyone making cap kits for the monitors? Thought I would ask since I had another Monitor II conk out on me. I'm no good at recapping myself, but I know a couple people nearby who might be able to do the job.
  14. I have a 2600 jr motherboard that i broke while trying to update a AV mod i did to it. it still outputs a video signal, although in black and white, and it seems to not want to sync with the TV. also there is no sound, due to a broken Capactor. I live in canada, so US shipping is probably going to be a little more (like 12 bucks us for international) I want $10 for the board. You can make an offer if you want to, although i'm trying to make up for having to buy another one. Also if there is any good AV mods for the JR that are not to complex let me know.
  15. Hello all, Just wondering if anyone out there has an extra part lying around for a 2600 six switch. I'm looking for the metal housing/encasement for the green board. I'd be willing to trade or pay outright. THANKS!
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