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Found 9 results

  1. Lately I have been finding new power supplies for XL and XEs on eBay that looked a lot like a 5 volt power supply with just a new 7 pin head. As anyone who has ever had an Atari XL knows the power supplies for the XL weren't all that reliable and even though the power supply I have for my 600XL was working I thought I would build another on using current technology like the ones I have been seeing on eBay and make the old one a spare. SO that is what I did and this is how I did it. Legal: I am not a professional but have had years of experience with computers. Still, use these instructions at your own peril. I assume no responsibility. Note: use this information only if you know what you are doing. Get the polarity wrong and you could BLOW YOUR COMPUTER. So always, check, check and check. The power supply plug on the XL line attaches by a 7 pin DIN plug. looking down at the plug the left 3 pins are negative and on the right 3 pins are positive. the bottom pin is nul and not connected to anything. But, on my 600XL, only 1 pin on each side need power. So the 2nd pin from top on left got negative and the 2nd from the top right got positive. All the other pins don't need to be powered even though the Atari power supply does power them. (I assume the 800XL is the same but since I have not tested one test, test, test. ) 7 pin DINS are hard to find and expensive. So, since only 1 pin on each side needs power I used a 5 pin DIN which is easier to find and cheaper and it fits. NOTE: It was pointed out that the monitor port ALSO uses a 5 pin on the 800XL which I had forgot about since the US 600XL only has a RF connector. IF you use a 5 PIN for power be sure NOT to plug the power into the monitor port by mistake. Bad things will happen if you do, very bad. Here are the specs for my power supply OUT is 5 volt, 2 amp. The Atari power supply was 1.5 amp so I wouldn't go any lower than that. The Actual 600XL draws 800mA but you might need the extra amps for SIO port devices (such as Fuqinet) that draw their power from the computer. Oh, and if you are wondering where the power supply came from it was an old power supply for a powered USB hub. Using an old USB powered hub I knew the power was steady and filtered. Using just an old phone charger might not work as well as it could introduce interference or power fluctuations. So check it out before you commit. Here is what the plug end looks like. Pin 2nd from top left is the negative, pin 2nd from top right is the positive. all other pins are un-powered. Here is the finished item. As I said before, test, test, test and double check yourself before you attach it to the Atari. If the polarity is wrong it could brick your computer. After I attached the power supply I ran a stress test of a little program and then the builtin Atari check program in a loop for quite a while. It held up fine.
  2. Good evening, Before I start, please feel free to comment on anything here where I may be doing something silly, as openly classing myself as amateur Atarian here after returning to using after over 30 years, and as a kid I would have never dared open the box up or do any of this stuff. I'm enjoying playing here, and objective is to both restore system to best it can be and have some fun along the way. Hope my ramblings may amuse and appreciate any advice. I recently posted this regarding graphics issues with my 800XL recently recovered from the loft : I'm pleased to note that following advice, I found a power supply that seems to improve matters in terms of interference seen on screen (understanding noise from USB was a serious thing after trying a few alternate adapters and a 'professionally' made cable (e.g. not by me)). USB power always noisy giving varying distortion, so moved on. I still note that I see out of place hashed pixels, which when compared to same software on an emulator is not very clean, so believe I still have a graphics issue and would love to know best way to fix (did add myself to pre-order list for a Sophia, and wonder if that would bypass issue, or not?) Unsure what this PSU was originally for - I hoard stuff so had a box full, but rated +5V 2.4A - switching power supply made by "CUI STACK" . Anyway it's not fuzzy, just cleaner pixel issues, but this post not about that (unless general system issue and related, please comment). So, I received my SDrive Max that I ordered from voidabone on Ebay. I guess could have put one together and may later build another myself, but I'm lazy, and also I like the case that came with it. Generally love this thing. As lost/discarded tapes, I only had a few cartridges, so now able to load a lot of software sourced from http://a8.fandal.cz/ Found a few gems I used to play as a kid. Start Raiders (lost cartridge somewhere along the way), Draconis, Thrust, Ninja to mention a few. Great nostalgia. Interestingly though, some ATRs or XEX files will not load properly / fully. Same will load fine on Altirra-3.90 , but that's not just the same is it Many will not load with odd screen corruption just as it seems to be about to complete. Two to note as examples, Defender ends like this: Then goes to a black screen. Hijack! is most odd, it seems to fully load: Thing is, the train is animated, but the clouds do not move, the helicopter does not appear and music does not play. Cannot start game, just stuck there but scrolling text moves ok. Again, loads fine on emulator. This is where I get silly. Searching around I find a CAS file, and Wav for Hijack! on http://www.atari.org.pl/tape/4/atari-smash-hits-4-hijack! I have an Atari 1010, but it has a broken tray, and PSU dead. Again, I found a compatible PSU, and soldered to connector and got power and motor works, and moves after OPT+Start and a key. So I'm thinking : I no longer have anything to record tapes with. I did check as recently grabbed a USB walkman device to capture some old mix tapes I also found in the loft, but it won't record, I used with Audacity to record to mp3, but I digress (often). Seems I started investigating the dead 1010 years ago not realizing it was the PSU as screws were out and was all open. I get thinking - What if I can find on the board where the audio comes in from the read-head and insert signal from a PC. I have a nice little "Maker Hart" mixer that I use to take sound from my work laptop, 2 PCs and an Alexa, and it has a 'record' output that sends a non-amplified signal out. This was mostly blind luck, as with it powered and connected to Atari, I was checking voltages where I thought it was (with Atari in START-Opt mode ready to load), and as I probed with a meter , i hear a slight audio buzz. Out comes the soldering iron and ......well: and before long, after playing hijack!.wav file in windows media: Then a false start: So I tried another file and after a time: So, went back to Hijack! and similar error. Then remembered I used to have to forward wind some tapes past the leader else they failed to load for some reason, so I started file a bit later. This time, loaded to about last 4 blocks, then heard a familiar change of tone and load failed. I realize perhaps a notification came up on PC, so disabled network via ncpa.cpl and tried again and finally in' in, have properly loaded title screen and i'm playing: Please note the pixel garbage on far right of picture, which i seem to get on a number of games I load. So conclusions: - There is nothing about this game it's self that my Atari doesn't like, as I can load it from tape (well sort of) and play it. - The S Drive Max seems to be source of problem loading some files. It's running KBr V1.2 , and I re-flashed it from PC after something silly happened and I seemed to be stuck on a reversed screen with touch-screen not responding. I realize from further reading around I perhaps could have done something else to re-calibrate, however it was on V1.2 anyway, so I assume my re-flash hasn't caused this (not 100% if was issue before, as I was still getting to grips with it). - I think lock-down has sent me a little crazy re trying my 1010 tape hack. This pretty much working first time has amused me a little too much Any comments on fixes for the S-drive loading issues or the slightly off graphics would be greatly appreciated. I believe it's quite a high percentage of software that will not load. Perhaps not 50%, but a lot. Take care all. TJ
  3. Can the Power supply I have pictured work with my Intellivision 2 console? When I power the console on with the biggest sleeved adapter all I get is snow and lines. When I wiggle the adapter the console shuts off. I set the adapter to 12v and positive polarity. I also cleaned the games I was using. The consoles is hooked up to the television with a Atari 7800 cable going into a coax adapter on my tv.
  4. Hello fellow forum members! I have a 2600 vader with the original co16353 power supply. This supply supposedly outputs 9v 500 ma, but testing with a multimeter displays 14.8v !!!! The console works fine and doesnt get hot or anything weird, So is the high voltage gonna kill the system? Should i get a truly 9v power supply??? Thanks for reading and your kind responses.
  5. I recently purchased a 1050 Disk Drive that came with a "BESTEK" DC 18-19.5V 3.61A positive-tip power adapter, and was told it would work. I don't know, so I thought I'd check here first before I "try and see." Is this safe to use? If so, would you consider it a better or worse choice than the original equipment 9VAC adapter? Thanks in advance. Cheers friends!
  6. My intelvison 2 isn't outputting 12v when the rf modulator is connected. If I remove it the connection reads exactly 12v but as soon as its connected it drops to 11-6ish volts. Also was not getting any video from the rf out, and my composite mod is having problems keeping a stable signal. Wondering if the low voltage is the source of the problem. Also one of the ic's gets really hot and I'm not sure if that's related to the voltage or if that's normal. There is actually some yellowing inside the case in the area that its located.
  7. I tried searching for this topic, but I couldn’t find it. If it already exists, sorry about that! Please let me know the link, then, as I’ve had trouble finding results that were helpful to me. I’m new to the Adam, and I took a chance on a cheap auction that has no printer. I’ve seen vague references to other options, but I couldn’t find many details. For new folks and non-technical folks, can we have a list of all the known alternatives for power supplies other than the giant printer that wipes tapes when it’s turned on? I’ve heard it’s possible to make one, but how does a newbie go about doing that? Detailed info on any alternatives would be great! I can update this top post with all the different suggestions so it’s easy for new folks to find. Thanks for your help, everyone!
  8. Hi everyone, I need some assistance / advice in obtaining a power supply in some form or another for my recently purchased 130XE, which I'd had shipped from the US to the UK. I'd ordered a PSU with the 130XE, which after it was finally delivered turned out to be completely useless and the wrong one. I'm now considering taking it up with Paypal as a dispute, so I won't go into the detail behind the order. So, on the day of the delivery I sourced a supplier on eBay UK and paid for a compatible PSU to be shipped to me, which after getting back from holiday, was two weeks from when the 130XE arrived. Unfortunately this one was also dead - checking the pin outs, there is no +5V from the PSU. After contacting the supplier, they said they would send one FOC - which after a week still hasn't arrived. I'm having absolutely no luck in trying to get set up with my 130XE - sourcing a power supply is proving to be particularly difficult here in the UK. Does anyone have any advice on two solutions I'm considering:- 1) They know of a (reliable!) supplier / someone that is willing to supply a UK 3-pin 220V 130XE power supply and it can be delivered in about a week? 2) Know how of a DIY solution that would allow me to convert a PSU with compatible output current / voltage for use with a 130XE? I can solder so making up a cable poses no issue for me, I do want to make sure that I get the correct wiring diagram though. Thanks for anyone that can advise. Steve
  9. I'm hoping someone here can help me. I apologize if this has been asked elsewhere but I wasn't able to find it. Cleaning out my garage I found an old 1200 XL in the styrofoam from my father-in-law. I plugged it in and tried to turn it on and got nothing, no lights no nothing. Pulled out the multimeter stuck it on the Atari end of the power supply ... nothing. So my questions for you all are #1 is there anything I can do to try to fix the original power supply, I'm fairly comfortable tinkering with electronics/soldering etc. #2 if the answer to number 1 is nope, will this one work? 9v 2a guitar pedal psus on amazon Any help at all would be greatly appreciated , if you need any more additional information please let me know 🙂 Here are some pictures of the original Power Supply if that helps :
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