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Found 41 results

  1. I've been troubleshooting a 1571 drive for a while now and I've pretty much exhausted everything on the mainboard. I'd like to work on the PSU, but it's wrapped in a metal cage and I don't see how it opens, short of cutting it apart. Does anyone know how I can get into the power supply on my 1571 drive?
  2. Does anyone know the volts, milliamps and the polarity of the original Gemini power supply? Also is it DC or AC?
  3. I have an Atari Jaguar, but lost the power adapter a long time ago. I've seen people saying the first-gen Genesis power adapter works for the Jaguar, but what about the MK-1602-1 adapter? It's intended for the first-gen Genesis, which requires 9V and 1.2A, but the adapter is 10V and 1.2A. I don't know why they made it 1 volt more, but it's meant for a system that requires 9V, so would it work for the Jaguar? From pictures people have posted, it looks like the same company might have made the same power adapter for multiple companies.
  4. Hey guys, I recently got a TI Silent Type 745 Terminal, but it is missing the power cord. It seems to be something old from the 70s and as I live in Germany, it is kind of hard to get information about it. Anybody's got a clue what kind of cable this is, and how it is called, or where to obtain it? The plug is about 3cm wide, with is about 1.1inch and has three terminals. Thanks. falk
  5. I recently ordered this ac adapter off of ebay for my 2600. I was looking for an oem one, because those are the best to use. Anyways, I got this in the mail and I just haven't ever seen anything like this one before. The two things that I thought were odd was that first: It was was made in China. And second: the box has rounded edges. Do you guys know if this is oem, or have you ever seen any like this. (I don't have a camera so here's the ebay ad. It looks just like the picture on the box, except it has voltage specs etc. on the front too. It's also ended so just scroll down a little.) Thanks in advance! eBay Auction -- Item Number: 390458752431
  6. EDIT: SIGH. Opera messed me up, I thought I posted in the main forum. Can a mod move this thread to 2600 General? THANKS. My parents surprised me with a new LED TV (replacing my 20 year old CRT monster, thanks!) and an AC adaptor for my Atari 2600! Finally, I can dust it off and start playing again! Then I realized how poorly I treated my stuff when I was a teenager, and I'm starting to clean everything up (cleaning paddle pots, joysticks, console, etc) This might turn into a "help me fix it" thread, but I don't care. I have two 2600s, both from Pizitz department store. one was a unit behind glass (so it wasn't touched), the other was an open unit that has "DEMO UNIT" red sticker. It also has red paint instead of orange, although I think that's typical from the Taiwan factory units. Anyway, the first 2600 I have (the open one) has a very finicky power switch. it was switched on and off every day for months in a store full of grubby-handed kids, so I'm amazed it's held up this much. It's also the one I ripped all the shielding off to replace it once (and cut myself BADLY doing so). The second 2600 is the dream unit, not a scratch, or a problem... EXCEPT some weird ghosting. I expect it's always been this way, but certain colors (like blue) will ghost really bad. Yars revenge title screen on boot is really mushy looking, but everything else is fine. Is this just NTSC being an abomination to the planet, or is this something I can fix? I think it might be a number of things, from my old Computer/Antenna switchbox to the fact that this thing is 5 years older than I am. I want to be sure that I'm not missing anything. Note that this is the ONLY problem with the unit. there is no static in the signal whatsoever, not even an occasional stray white dot.
  7. Hi all, I was given a 7800 a few years ago minus it's power adaptor. I recently did an experiment to allow it to work with another adaptor of the same rating, but modding the connection. I've made a video on my YouTube channel showing how I did it. Please leave any constructive comments ) Video: Best regards Steve
  8. Been going on a bit of a repair kick lately and got myself into a bit of trouble / mystery. Way back in the olden days, I got a catalog in the mail from some outfit named INTV Corporation. I ordered an INTV System III from them - so I could have my very own Intellivision to haul off to college! In the ensuing years, that system has gone through quite a lot, even tolerating my "repairs". One time when opening it (another story there, let's just say it needed fixing), I essentially destroyed the ribbon cable connecting the power board to the main board. I hacked together an absolutely horrible solution, and so it stayed for the past 15 years or so. I started using different systems as "daily drivers". I finally decided to remedy the hacky repair, because the system was unstable due to … shall we say … some extremely bad work on my part. At the time I did the "repair" I damaged the traces on the power board where the ribbon cable used to be, and age has not been kind to that board. (In my defense, I did the repair using materials at hand and a soldering gun -- yeah, that was fun!) OK, backstory done. Let's move to today: I removed the mess from the old "repair" and put in something more tidy and less prone to accidental grounding-of-things-that-should-not-be-grounded. However, the damage done so many years back must have caused more issues. The system seemed to work -- until I closed it all up. More investigation revealed further connectivity problems due to damaged traces. So, I reworked the connections again. More stress on an already compromised board... Now, I still have a really bad multimeter. If you're curious, it's this one. So while I can say the voltages on the connector pins are "ballpark", I can't say with any confidence that they are "in spec". Here's the weirdness: One controller does not work. (the right controller). But only with this power board. If I connect a different power board, both controllers work just fine. With this super duper hacky-fixed-up power board, only the left controller works. Using the 4.1 test cart, the chips all pass tests, etc. but I get zero response from the right controller... Swapping back to the brand new power board, everything works just fine. Ideas? I'd like to keep the original parts intact - hacked up damage and all - if possible. Plus it's useful to have a functioning, separate power board available for testing things like this.
  9. For the next few weeks I want to spend some quality time with my real iron and spice up my working standard PEB (featuring TI 32K, TI serial, TI controller and a single TI SSSD drive). Some immediate improvements would be to replace the noisy fan and to add a Lotharek drive to the box. Further down the road I also have a non-working US PEB I would like to run on 230 V. Much further down I might even tinker with some custom-designed expansion cards. Now I'm a noob when it comes to the analog aspects of hardware, but the one thing I remember about the PEB is that it can provide only 1A of power safely. For running non-standard stuff, e.g., dual drives, one should do the 2A mod. On the other hand, back in the day my original (and now lost) PEB did have two slim drives, and I doubt that the vendor applied this modification to the PEB. Question 1. Will I be able to run the TI Disk Controller with a single TI SSSD Drive and the Lotharek drive (plus the other cards) safely together, or do I need the 2A mod? The 2A mod refers to the 12V line, but Lotharek uses 5V only. Question 2. Could I additionally power a standard 12V PC fan from the drive power line? This has been done, but what about the 1A power limit? (On second thought: Papst 2600 rpm @ 1,3 W / 12 V = 100 mA, but Papst 1000 rpm @ 0,35 W -> 30 mA seems OK?) For my broken PEB I would at the very least have to replace the fuse, which is hard to get at (rocker switch PEB). Worse, I need to handle 230 V. So I considered replacing the entire power supply with a modern PC one, knowing full well that this is obviously considered a bad idea by several people. If I understood above articles correctly, the PEB requires 8V and 16V instead of the PC 5V and 12V, but all cards will do their own voltage regulation anyway and thus can handle 5V and 12V as well. I absolutely do not doubt these experts and their experience, but still ... When I look at the TI RS-232 interface card, which happens to lie on my table right now, it states as input power requirements . + 7.5 TO + 10.0 VDC @ 0.600 AMPS + 14.0 TO + 18.0 VDC @ 0.100 AMPS - 14.0 TO - 18.0 VDC @ 0.100 AMPS . Question 3. Is it really safe to run a PEB on 5V/12V? Would that also solve the power (amp) shortage from above? If I'm not mistaken, the (European) console power brick also delivers 8V and 16V. Question 4. Couldn't you butcher something for the PEB out of that? And if I ever get around to play with PEB prototyping, I only have the "TI 99/4A and Peripheral Expansion System Technical Data" manual right now. According to that manual, a PEB card may draw up to 250/500/30 mA. Question 5. So did I get this right that the 1 A limitation above only refers to the floppy drive power cable and that I could run up to 8 cards at 500 mA each on the bus? (If so the fuse part confuses me ...) Question 6. Are there any other good resources for creating PEB cards? Are the schematics and/or sources for the PEB prototype board available somewhere? Sorry, that's a lot of questions ... Have I already mentioned that I'm a power noob?
  10. Hi all, I've been browsing the Atariage forums for a long time now and with help from a lot of great posts I've modded and resurrected quite a few Atari systems. Thank you, to all of the knowledgeable and friendly people who post here. I finally came up against some issues that I haven't been able to sort out by searching the forums. I'll start out by telling everybody about the system I have. It is a 4 port 5200, (the non VCS adapter compatible one). I bought it untested from ebay with 3 games and 4 controllers, but no power supply or switchbox. I bought an original 4 port power supply and did the power mod to eliminate the need for the all in one switchbox, (thank you Mitch and CPUWIZ). I am using the original soldered on RF cable to connect the 5200 to my TV, (I'll likely do the video mod after I sort out the issues I'm having). I've cleaned up 2 of the controllers and the buttons are working good. The joysticks were too, but that's changed. Anyhow after I completed the power mod and hooked the 5200 to my TV it looked and sounded great, no problems with any of the games I tried. However some of the controller inputs weren't reading, but the system seemed to be working great otherwise. After a while thought a new problem started. The system would not turn off with the power button and I started getting graphical errors with lockups. The power is on as soon as I plug it in, without even pressing the power button. After reading a few posts here it seemed that I my power problem and graphics troubles were likely due to a bad 4013 flip flop. I bought a pack of 25 and have tried about half of them - no change, the problems remain. As a matter of fact even without a 4013 socketed the 5200 powers on as soon as I plug it in and will on turn off. I also still get graphical corruption and lockups after a short time too. Aside from changing out the 4013 I've also tested the power switch for continuity. It has continuity when the button is pushed and none when it isn't, so the button isn't the problem. This has me really stumped, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. On to problem 2 - the controller input issue. As mentioned I've cleaned and got working 2 of the controllers. So after some searching of the posts it seemed likely that my problem was due to faulty CD4052 ICs. I bought a pack of 25 and replaced the 5 that are on the board. Success! All of the buttons now work as they should. However I am having trouble with the joysticks. The joysticks worked fine initially, before I changed the CD4052s, but started to give me trouble before I did the swap and it didn't go away with the swap. As soon as I start any game it acts like the joystick is being pushed all the way down and to the right. This happens even if the joystick is centered and does not change even if I move the stick all the way up and to the left, or any other direction for that matter. It's the same with both controllers and the same with both ports 1 and 2, I have not tried ports 3 or 4. More reading on the forums is leading me to suspect I've got a fault Pokey chip. The Pokey looks slightly discolored around the edges. I don't have another to swap out, yet, but that is what I plan on trying next. I've also cleaned the pins in all 4 or the ports. Again any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I do own a multi-meter and a decent soldering iron, (which I am pretty good at using). I also got really lucky with the board revision in my 5200, every IC on the board is socketed, so no de-soldering required to swap out chips. This is the first 5200 I've owned and I've got a lot of great games that I want to start playing. I know some of you guys have seen it all with these systems, so I'm hopeful that I'll be able to sort it out with your help. Thanks in advance.
  11. I've got an Odyssey 3000 and I'm tired of using the damn 6C batteries it takes. It has a 9V plug in the back that looks like it fits a 2600 plug but its smaller. Is there a power supply out there that works? It runs on 700mW
  12. A few years back I found an original Intellivision console in a antique shop for only $10 so I bought it. Got it home and it wouldn't power. I cracked it open and found that the transformer was shot. Long story short I tinkered with other transformers to no luck and then shelved it. Well today I took a run at it again and I've made headway. The transformer has been replaced and now the power board outputs are mostly in spec. The 5v, 12v and -2v register fine with my multimeter but the unregulated 16v reads as 33v when tested with my meter. Is this acceptable when the power plug going to the main board is disconnected and the only load is the multimeter? I don't want to hook the power circuit up to the main board and blow it. I know unregulated lines give a wide range of reading depending on the load connected. Is the 16v line 16v when the system is running or just the base output with the cable not connected to anything but a meter? Btw: Nice forum
  13. ...just what the title says. I sold the only one I had several months ago and I'm itching to start playing again. LMK if you guys have one that you wouldn't mind parting with. Thanks! Edit: I'm also looking for a Microsoft branded Xbox controller (s type)
  14. Hello! Been lurking here a bit and find the game inventory very handy, as well as the forums. I am cleaning out my stuff and have a Sears Video Arcade II- does it have the same power specs as the 2600? I also have a 5200 I need to test out. I have an Atari branded power supply, labeled AC Adaper Model No. C017539. Google says it's for the Atari Modem- would this work on anything else? Thanks in advance to anyone that can help
  15. After years of hunting for a maching that the price is right for it's condition, AND is close enough to not cost a ton to move it (as much as I like my car, there is no way my poor little Hyundai is moving a cab) I found one. I paid someone $10 to move it for me, and that's it. I was happy, they were happy they didn't have to pay to get rid of it. The machine is in SAD shape. It's been stored in a carriage house for years, and took on some water damage. The plus side to the water damage, the back was easy to pry off, found just shy of $30 in quarters! The cab gods want this machine to live! It's currently an off-brand billiards game. There's stickers all over it from small cab maintenance & sale companies. It's changed hands several times, and I think rebuilt each time. After studying it for a few days, I've come to the conclusion it started life as an Atari Berzerk Cabinet. Since It's been gutted so many times, I think I'm just going to go all-out on a MAME cabinet I don't see ANY potential collectors' value. After a inspecting wiring (and disconnecting the original transformer which was still getting power for some reason, just not outputting to anything) I gave her some juice! The light came on, but nothing else. I double checked a few failsafe switches, and fed it come currency hoping I could get a noise, and prove the screen dead, but nothing nothing. It think it's the new power supply. However, I don't have a comparable replacement available. I'm really torn right now. I want to fix it, just for the experience. I'm really uncomfortable working around the CRT, and would rather just gut it, and sell the boards. (Or trade/gift the boards since I can't verify condition) Thoughts/opinions? I'll add pictures when I can. If anyone has any useful links ot MAME threads, that'd be appreciated too!
  16. Hey just a quick question- does the gray ac adapter have the same amps, voltage, and polarity as the black one? I got a heavy sixer and I know they usually use a gray power supply, but the one i got came with a black one. Thanks.
  17. Every time I plug in my 2600 Jr.'s adaptor into the wall outlet or surge protector strip, it emits a very loud buzzing/droning noise, while the 2600 Jr. is perfectly fine. What could be causing this? It didn't do this a few months ago. Any idea what the problem is, and what can be done to fix it? Also, is it even safe to play the 2600 while it's buzzing?
  18. I'm getting a Colecovision soon, without a power supply. These things are a nightmare, as you know - they have an obsolete plug and also supply the unit with +5, +12 and -5v dc. My question is this - Can the Colecovision be modded to a common 2.1mm barrel plug to take a 12vdc supply - powering a 7905 -5v reg and a 7805 +5v reg? Thus, giving the machine it's 12v, 5v and -5v supplies? I would also use some big custom heat sinks or Traco switching voltage regulators to keep the heat down inside the machine.
  19. I recently picked up a 5200 4-port. It's missing several case screws. Can anyone confirm the correct screws used for the case? I think the screws that came with this 5200 are type b #6-20 3/4 sheet metal screws. Is that what it should be or perhaps these were used to replace the original screws that were of a different type? Here's what was in my 5200: It didn't have a power supply, but I found one elsewhere. It's an 11.5v version. I tested it with a multimeter and it's outputting 14.5 volts. From what I've found the voltage regulators in both the case and the switchbox should be capable of handling over 30 volts. Do I have any reason to worry about using the power supply? 3 volts over seems like a big difference, is that typical or should I start looking for another power supply? The traces (or is it the soldermask) on the back side of the board on is wrinkly (see the POKEY to C104 wire image below). Is that normal or is it a sign of something I need to be worried about? It looks like the VCS adapter compatibility mod was applied to this board, but I also see a capacitor between pins 1 and 17 on the POKEY and a wire on the underside between pin 1 of the POKEY and C104. Is this a known mod? Any idea what it's for? Trying to smooth out power to the POKEY perhaps? In the middle of the rat's nest that is the VCS mod, I see a resistor and a capacitor (?) wired in parallel from between the two resistors connecting R11 and C10 as part of the VCS mod. There's also a diode wired to either side of R10. Any idea what they're for? The parts side of the pcb, marked CA018087, has no revision. The solder side, marked C018085 is rev 7. I will probably apply the mod to separate the power from the RF. I was also thinking about doing the mod for composite and/or s-video, but doing that would make the VCS mod pointless, right? If I did the composite/s-video mod I could pull the VCS mod out. If I did that would I need to reconnect pin 24 on the cartridge slot to ground? Thanks for any help/information you can provide. I hope to get this 5200 up and running soon.
  20. Hello all! Very, very new to the TI-99/4a. A college friend recently sold me one for $20. After picking up a TI Extended Basic cart, I found myself very interested in learning Basic as a hobby. So, I went on eBay and found a "mint condition new in box" black program recorder. If "new" means missing the manual, missing the cable, and came in a box that reeked of mildew. That's eBay for you. The tape deck itself seems fine, and I cleaned up the cable that leads to the computer. (Cable was definitely coated in mildew... ew... ) I also already had a manual, but there isn't much to it so wasn't worried about that. However this brings me to the topic at hand. C batteries will add up fast. I noticed there is an option for a DC adapter. Anyone know where I could find a compatible DC adapter? Or even an original AC adapter?
  21. Is anyone else running into audio/video popping when using a Suncom Tac2 with a Sears Video Arcade II? It only happens when I press the orange buttons on either side of the controller. The 4 switch woody 2600 I have has no issues with it. I wonder if it's a power/feedback issue with that specific model. It's kind of comical to watch the screen jump and audio crackle in Berzerk every time you shoot an alien. Also the regular Atari controllers (cx-40?) do not have the issue. I am using a non-Atari branded 9VDC 1A adapter with polarity like (-)-©-(+). Wondering if maybe it's a power issue, although the Arcade II exhibits no other problems with any other devices. There seems to be zero consensus on what the ideal V/A or even polarity or AC/DC should be on these forums and interwebs for this console but I do believe it has to have a bridge rectifier if it can handle both VDC and VAC adapters. I just got this unit with the Tac2 over the weekend locally so I have no idea if it ever didn't do this with the tac2. My guess is it's just the fact that it's a clone that wasn't completely vetted with 3rd party accessories since it was originally destined to be the 2800 in Japan.
  22. I'm looking for a good Raspberry Pi setup I have the following Xbox to trade or possibly sell (includes) IDE Adapter to Sata Card 80 pin high speed ribbon cable 750GB 7200 Rpm hard Drive Clear "Ghost" Case 2 Controllers Dukes Power Cable Hi-def component cables Red lighted Controller Ports Blue Lighted Top Power Switch On the Controller Clear DVD Cover Mod vid_1.mp4vid_2.mp4 PM me for details Thanks for looking!
  23. Had this atari for a while and always worked fine. Was playing the other day, turned off, came back later. Now it will not turn on. Flipped power switch and nothing. Any ideas?
  24. Ok so I got a power supply that is good on +5,-5,but the +12 registers at like 124 and such. Anyone ever had the thought of opening the innards of the coleco and adding the electrical components inside to offset needing to dremel the power supply open? Just looking for alternatives although knowing I would need to be able to retro fit the interior if I get a new power supply and all. Just thinking inside the other box and all. Thoughts are welcome here.
  25. Does anyone have any long-term experience with running a US TI 99/4A with a European power supply? Looking at the power bricks they supply slightly different voltages, but this thread deems it as safe. That was in 2010, though, so maybe there are new insights by now. My model that arrived in the mail today also has only two power pins in the socket -- does this make my machine a QI model? And if so, is it still safe to use a European power supply? (I do have a step converter, but I think it's a pain to use that.) I also noticed that I need to do the composite video mod to get a picture. While most European TVs handle NTSC nicely I simply have no clue how to connect those flimsy appendages that come out of the modulator.
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