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Found 34 results

  1. Ok, I don't need any help or anything. I just wanted to post about a weird issue I ran into today. I had a Joystick that wasn't working, so I decided to do some troubleshooting. The first thing I noticed when I took it apart, was that the wires were a different color than I expected. I wrote down the colors and where they went, then disconnected them so I could do some testing. I first checked the PCB with my multimeter. It checked out fine. So, I started checking the cable. I was able to determine that pins 2,3,4 and 6 were fine. I couldn't get anything on pins 1 and 8. I looked the cable over and could see no issues at all. There were no crimps, kinks, cuts or other visible damage. I did everything I could think of to try and get a reading on the non-working pins. After about 20 minutes I gave up and decided to cut the cable and test the wires and the cable (plug) end. I cut it about 5 inches from the connector and tested it. Everything worked. I then tested the rest of the cable and still no readings on 1 and 8. I threw away the cable, but kept the end, just in case I could find a use for it later on. I know the wires are thin, but I never expected to find two that were broken, without some type of damage on the outside of the cable. It just seemed odd to me. Anyway, that's all I wanted to say.
  2. OK, I didn't know if I should post this here or in Hardware, so I just put it here. I just got a 2600 Jr. today and it has a few issues. When you first turn it on, with any game or the Harmony cart, it takes probably 10 seconds before the picture shows up on the TV. When you put a Battlezone cart in and turn it on, it takes a few seconds, then you get the radar and some other random bits of the picture kind of jumping around the screen, then it will show up correctly, but with a very dim picture. In a couple of seconds, the picture brightens up and the colors are all good. If Demons to Diamonds is inserted, same wait time on start-up, but the color and brightness are good. Now, here's the big problem. When you hit reset to start Demons to Diamonds, it goes from color to Black and White. Unplugging the rca cable from the back of the console and then slowly putting it back, will allow you to see a split second of color before it goes B&W again. The same thing happens using the Demons and Diamonds .bin on the Harmony Encore. Also, With the Harmony, if you switch it off, while it's B&W and then switch it right back on, the Harmony menu is in B&W. Switching it off and on again, results in color. The Jr. isn't modded and an inspection of the board showed no bad solder joints or leaky caps. The Serial is A1781245617 The board is CO21503 Revision C On most games, it looks great, the colors and the picture are better than my AV modded Vader and 7800, other than the lack of a picture for a few seconds when you turn it on. Demons to Diamonds is the only game I've found so far that triggers the B&W issue, but I feel like that's a sign of something needing repair. So, does anyone have an answer as to what's wrong with it?
  3. Hi, I bought my CX-40 at a flea market a while ago, it used to work great, but now it has a problem where to move right, I have to move it farther then all of the other directions. Also, the right contact seems to have a "Sweet spot", if I don't move the joystick to that sweet spot on the right contact, it won't register. Odds are someone will know what's wrong with it.
  4. Hey guys n' gals, I recently found myself a copy of Chiller for NES. I tried cleaning it and testing it on different systems but it doesn't work properly. It screams at me (which is normal) but it is a white screen. I press start and I can hear sound and see the monsters but the monsters are all solid gray and the environments are missing. I opened up the cart and judging by a picture I found online, I think this board is missing a resistor. As you can see in the picture of my board, there are 3 resistors at the top left, but in this picture I found online, there should be 4 there. I am hoping this is the issue and that it can be solved. I could probably replace the resistor but I can't tell which one I need. Does anyone else have a copy that they can take a look at the board and check? Thanks.
  5. So, I went to go play my trusty Atari 2600, and discovered that she is displaying some very unusual behavior. For the record, this is a 4 switch light (CX-2600A REV 12). I have cleaned the carts and the slot, to no avail. I've googled, and googled, without any luck. Anything other than combat results in this:
  6. First of all, Hello everyone, i'm new in this forum. Recently I've bought a Mc will mod for Game Gear and I have a problem: When I press 1 and 2 buttons at the same time, the screen change its scale. Normally this only happens when you press 1, 2 and start button too at the same time. Does anyone know if it's possible to fix it?, becouse is a bit annoying because some games needs to press 1 and 2 bottons at the same time. Thank you in advance.
  7. Every time I plug in my 2600 Jr.'s adaptor into the wall outlet or surge protector strip, it emits a very loud buzzing/droning noise, while the 2600 Jr. is perfectly fine. What could be causing this? It didn't do this a few months ago. Any idea what the problem is, and what can be done to fix it? Also, is it even safe to play the 2600 while it's buzzing?
  8. I have a '99 that I fitted with a F18a some months back. I've used it a good many hours without issue, and some of that was online through TIMXT with a WiFi232 -- so the keyboard has been working fine. I'd not used the TI in a few weeks and turned it on and noticed in the FlashROM '99 menu that certain keys were not working. Those keys are: HJKL; and SPACE Press normal, hard, etc. and they don't register -- TI BASIC, TIMXT, Forth, etc. But, I left the machine on for a while and I notice they keys now do work...but you need to press them just a little harder than "normal" for them to trigger, and when you do, they usually repeat a few times. One depress of 'K' results in 'KKKK' and such. So something is really strange here. I assume the hardware heating up is the change, but the repeat action baffles me. Can anyone make anything out of this? I see no other oddities with the system. I disconnected my PEB and that had no effect on the situation. Is this a specific IC failing? Or...? Thanks. bp
  9. Hello. I am need of help! I have recently modded my 2600 to use AV and although I am getting color, the screen flickers like nuts... This mod required the removal of the resistor R209 and the transistor Q201/2 - I had to jump R209 to get color so I though maybe R209 was at fault - but tit was dumb luck that I did not throw R209 away so I tested it out, and the same thing happened so I know that R209 is not at fault. I decided that maybe the TIA is at fault so I bough a TIA Chip and it did not make a difference. Please help... Thanks! The Flashing on Combat: The Flashing on Pole Positn(-: My board (If that helps):
  10. Hi everyone, I have a 2600 that has been sitting in a box for a couple of years. I took it out and fired it up and it was awesome...until the video went out. I now have sound, but noooooooo video. While I am perfectly capable of taking my atari apart, I really don't know what I should be looking for. Are there parts that I should jiggle? Are there things that I should take out and put back in? I tried to search the archives, but I don't really even know what I am looking for. So if anyone has troubleshooting suggestions, i would be greatly appreciative! I am without electronic equipment, but can walk to a radio shack if I need to pick up a multi-meter or something. Thanks all! david
  11. I recently purchased a non-working asteroids unit (serial # 28,XXX) from craigslist. Below is a brief detail of the unit: -Asteroids Rev -04 board -Monitor is a G05-802 -A/R I board As you can see in the attached pictures, there is a weird ripple in the test pattern and it is noticeable when playing as well. Also here are the 0-scope shots: http://imgur.com/a/15LpC ... The Y signal has an odd spot that doesn't match the manual (circled in red) I have replaced/checked the following so far: -Checked all fuses in unit, all are good. -Checked voltages from Power Brick. All checked good. -Checked unregulated input (~ 10-13 volts) and regulated 5V output (~5.10 V) on A/R I board. -Replaced caps on HV unit, Deflection Board, Main PCB, A/R I, Big Blue -Checked all diodes and transistors on Deflection and HV boards, all test good. -Checked bottle cap transistors mounted to chassis. All check good. Made sure all were NOT shorted to case. -Quickly checked all connectors and all seem to visually look intact. Re-flowed solder to all connectors on Deflection and HV board. -Replaced R100 and R101 on deflection board with 18 AWG wire. -Checked X and Y signal from game PWB with O-scope and the ripple is present so I believe the problem is from the PWB. Does anyone know what this ripple can be caused from on the game PWB?
  12. Hello I am using an Atari STE 520 with a HxC device called the "USB floppy drive emulator" in revision D made by Lotharek. This is the version which lacks jumper switches, but lets you select the device ID in software. Using this device as a internal floppy drive works acceptable. However I run into problems when I try to use it as an external FDD with a cable made by this guide: http://www.atari-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=26656 Sadly the Wiki entry which is mentioned in this guide is broken. All internal jumpers inside my STE are on their default (http://info-coach.fr/atari/hardware/interfaces.php) so pin 5 of the 14 pin connector would try to reach a FDD with ID 1 (rather than 0). The problem is that it won't work for me... The control LED of the HxC device for floppy access just lights up if I set the HxC to DS2 (all normal) or DS1 (with twisted cable). With those configuration I can for example open the floppy folder of "orbital destroyer". The internal FDD does sounds when doing so. If I then start the game the internal FDD continues to make sound, but the external one isn't used. The problem is the same if I cut the cable of (Atari STE-) pin 5 having it floating (Atari STE pin 6 still connected). However cutting 6 while having 5 still connected doesn't work. Does someone of you operate a Atari STE 520 with a Lotharek USB floppy drive emulator as external FDD? Is this possible, or is there a funky bug? Has anybody an idea what I am doing wrong? PS: Of Orbital Destroyer I have the actual 3.5 inch and I am going to put it to SPS tonight =) With kind regards Ben
  13. Hi guys! Im in the uk and I have a problem with my intellivision that I hope you can help me out with. A few weeks back I got the console from eBay. It was working fine apart from a small colour issue, the greens were red etc. But after 20 or so minutes the games would correct the colour. It suddenly went to a blank screen when i turned the console on or pressed reset. After taking it apart and giving it a dust down as well as cleaning the port with a credit card and a lint free cloth the title screen comes on, all in the right colours. Sometimes I have to hold the reset button and release it at the same time as switching it on to get the title screen. But as soon as I press any key or the d pad on either controller the screen goes blank. On mazeatron I get the title screen with the intro music, but, again, as soon as I press anything it goes blank. On demon I get the title screen and the graphics moving about, but does absolutely nothing when I press any key, it doesn't go blank, just stays on the title screen. I also tried leaving it on for a while on just the title screen to see if it would turn itself off as it did before, but it just stayed on the title screen for almost 20 minutes before i turned it off. I noted that underneath was quite warm. When i opened it up i couldnt see any damage, but then, i dont really know what im looking for. I have never attempted to fix anything like this before, i dont even know how to solder and i have no computer or electronic skills at all, i have absolutely no idea what im doing. Please help! Many thanks for reading!!
  14. I bought my first pong console today, it was complete with everything, and it outstanding shape, like it had barely been played. The price was right so I picked it up, however I am having issues with getting video. It did not have an adapter, (I think they did not come with them,) so I hooked it up with batteries. Now, I have no problem with the sound, it comes out loud and clear, however I cannot seems to get anything to show up on screen. First I tried using an old analog TV, hooking it up with the antenna spades, but no dice. I remembered I have another compatible RF switch and tried that but again, no luck. So, I tried using a coaxial adaptor and hooked it to a newer CRT, but again I cannot get the picture to show. So I am at a loss as to what is causing this, the PCB looks fine but I have not inspected it too closely yet and I was looking at the proprietary jack and I can;t tell if something is off, as I have never seen one before. I can try and get pics up later if necessary..
  15. Recently I had acquired a Colecovision, and hadn't gotten around to plugging it in because I had no games. Once I got some games and tried to play, the CV's RF output had a green tint, and looked as if I was playing on a GameBoy screen. There was no color, and all the graphics were just various shades of green! I tried to reflow solder on the RF board to no avail, de-soldered and checked the RF board and the components underneath (no difference), cleaned the power switch (which did not work) and even tried poking around the graphics chip and saw absolutely no difference in color whatsoever. I'm at wits end trying to figure out what is wrong with this CV. Attached below are a couple of pictures from the system on my Trinitron TV. This also came up on a flat screen TV as well. Any ideas?
  16. So the Switch has 32 GB of internal flash storage, 6.1-7GB of which is set aside for the OS. Also, all saves from games will be saved to the system memory. So "internal memory" could quickly become scarce. Downloading a game like Zelda will take up half the system memory, and DragonQuest, at 32GB, won't even fit. I for one am pretty concerned about this becoming a real problem. Not from a downloading games standpoint, as those can be put on micro SD cards which while smallish now should eventually grow to the Switch's 2TB maximum. But to me it seems like a few system updates, a few saved games, and a few patches later, the internal memory could quickly fill up. Then what? Saved games aren't currently designed to go on the Micro SD card? I've had systems before that ran out of system memory, many times actually (Sega CD, Saturn, 3DO, Wii, Xbox, PS3) and it is never pretty. Shuffling files around, deleting stuff and trying to upgrade Memory carts or HDD's. Is this really a non-issue? Am I making more of this than it has the potential to become? Obviously others (this is one article of many) are thinking about this: https://www.technobuffalo.com/2017/01/20/nintendo-switchs-storage-problems-and-solutions-discussed-by-nintendo/ The 32GB for the Wii U seemed small at the time, but my mind was put to ease as soon as I hooked up my 2TB Seagate drive. I haven't even come close to filling it. That said, the Switch is portable and dragging around an external powered HD makes no sense. And yet Nintendo says they may be making this an option for the Switch. So then you have the 32GB internal storage, a 128GB micro SD, and a 4TB drive hooked up. What goes where exactly and how would that work? Seems convoluted. Anyway looking forward to your thoughts, ideas, and speculation on this issue.
  17. I have a problem with my ultra pong doubles. Sound is fine, but the screen is very distorted. This is what happens when you turn it on: No display mods have been done.
  18. Hi everyone I've recently purchased a Jaguar off Ebay that is in great condition. Came with many games and extra contorler. However, the picture does not work properly. The sound works fine but when it is turned on, the picture flashes on and off. I have uploaded a video to youtube to demonstrate. It came with a standard scart output not RF. This model of Jaguar does not even have the RF out... At the end of the video, I show the telly using the same scart to display a Wii working perfectly just to prove it is not the telly. There are also some pictures at the bottom... Does anyone have any idea what is causing this issue, and how I can reslove it? Thanks Ali
  19. Hey guys, yesterday I opened up my atari 2600 4 switch because the picture on the screen hasn't been the best lately. Sometimes it has good picture and sometimes it doesn't :I Anyways, I opened it up and found that the rca cable that leads into the system has a small cut at the very end. This is most likely the picture problem. I tried to pull it off and switch the chord, but I couldn't! It was stuck! I applied some force to it, but nothing. I don't want to put TOO MUCH force, because I don't want to break the thing. Is anyone else's Atari 2600 stuck like this as well? I believe this is the original cable.
  20. I recently bought 3 Ataris (1 fat, 2 newer small ones) for $200, and there is a ton of static. Long story short, I've eliminated every possible thing I could between the solder points for the RF out on the Atari circuit board and the input on my TV, but it still yields static. I've used the RF tuner on the board, reseated everything that can be reseated, and used rubbing alcohol on most external contacts, yet I still get static. The Atari comes with the original power supply, and works flawlessly, just the static. I've tried it on 3 different TVs of 3 different types. (CRT, Projector, and LCD) with the same result on each. There doesn't appear to be any physical damage in any soldering or the board in general, other than some kind of minor liquid stains on the side. Any suggestions? Thanks, -Will
  21. I'm not sure why, but the copy of Super Mario All-Stars + World I got in the mail today has the exact same problem my copy of plain ol' Super Mario World does: one of the sound channels is just not working. No matter what I do, clean it, shuffle the cart around when I insert it, even tried different systems, nothing works. Does anyone have any idea why this could be? I had this problem before with a SFC copy of Link to the Past, and likewise, I couldn't find a solution for that either. Would it be something in the circuitry causing this? Any help would be appreciated! EDIT: After looking around, I did find a possible solution: either go RF or try to find better AV cables, because it seems the stereo output is broken...
  22. This has gotten really odd so I figure this is the best place to get some help. My Atari paddles were jittery at first, and I followed the instructions to clean them. After cleaning them, they were still jittery. I cleaned them again, and the issue persisted. To test if it was a broken pot, I modded a new one from Radio Shack onto one of the controllers, which also didn't change anything. I have a spare Flashback 4, so I tested the controllers on that. Both of the paddles played very smoothly, almost like new. And yet, when I plugged them into the actual system, they seemed broken. I noticed that the pins on the Flashback seemed smaller, so I tried to use the controllers with a serial port adapter with the same size pins, but it didn't work either. I get that I could just buy another pair, but the controllers aren't actually broken, so I don't think I should. Plus, I'm not sure buying another pair of paddle controllers would solve the problem. If it helps, the paddles are (2nd?) generation, the kind were the shaft of the pot is a lighter color. My 2600 is a Vader. Ideas? I'm pretty stuck at the moment
  23. Hello! I'm having a problem with my Colecovision the past couple of days. It's been working great for a couple years now. It was working fine just a couple days ago, but suddenly now it only displays mostly static on the screen when I turn it on. There is no visual of any game/startup screen. The attached pic shows the pattern of static I see. Sorry, it's sideways. The top quarter of the tv is plain black, but then there's like a reddish line and the rest is static (although the bottom quarter seems yellowish). I've tried using different RF Adapters and cables and it's the same problem (maybe the colours a little less noticeable, but same issue). For now, I'm just using a direct cable connection to the tv. I've already taken apart the power switch to clean the contacts on its top and bottom halves. No change. Another piece of info. I recently checked out the voltage readings reaching the main board from the power supply. When the power is off: Blue: -4.6 V White: 4.75 V Red: 9.7 V --Wait, isn't that a bit far off? Then I turn the power on and here are the readings: Blue: -4.6 V (same as before) White: 4.75 V (same as before) Red: 6.4 V -- Is this supposed to happen when the power is turned on?? I'm worried that the problem could be the RF Modulator. But those power supply readings seem strange, but I don't know why the system would work fine for years and then suddenly this would be the problem. Anyway, based on this info, and the picture attached, does anyone have any suggestions/ideas of the problem and how to fix? Thanks, all.
  24. Hello all, I'd like to begin by saying that I am by no means a negligent/careless owner. I was never rough with my Jag. However, despite this, it stopped working a while back for reasons currently beyond me. The last few times I'd played it, it had serious controller issues; on Cybermorph, the T-Griffon wouldn't stop jetting forward and moving upward, while on Tempest 2K, I couldn't stop shooting. Not long after these incidents, my Jag failed entirely, and won't even power on. All I know is that these consoles are very sensitive to electrical mishaps (shorts, overloads, etc.), and that something to do with the controller inputs failed/shorted out, and this somehow eventually led to total failure. Yet if that is the case, wouldn't that mean that one of my controllers is defective and causes shorts? I've no soldering skills, and even less of a clue on how to find the replacement parts necessary for this system, so the chances of me fixing this are slim. For the meantime, I've purchased a new Jag system (I shouldn't have to explain how expensive they've become), so I want to ensure that this doesn't happen again. The main things I want to know are: *What caused this? *Is this (cheaply) fixable? *What can prevent this? Sorry about the long post, but as a long-time Atari fan, I just want to ensure the fun doesn't stop here. Please feel free to ask me anything you'd like to know.
  25. Hi Im trying to fix this Commodore 64 but so far no success. When I power it up I get a line on screen (look at picture), after about 3 minutes the chips are slowly getting worm except for the PLA,SID and Kernal they get hot but just enough so that they can still be touched, i probed with my scope pins 1 and 39 on cpu and the clock seems fine ,how do I proceed from here I am suspecting the PLA but dont have another Commodore to test it I heard that I could test the chips using a arduino but probably would need a code for that.
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