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Found 150 results

  1. What dumb little repair or tech thing have you done recently- that while simple and small- makes you feel accomplished and awesome? For me it was putting the guts of a well loved Gameboy Color into a new case with new pads and buttons to fix it- since many of the buttons didn't work well (or work in well.) and the case was not in great condition. Easy thing to do- but made me feel pretty good when it was all done and everything worked a hecka a lot better.
  2. Hello. I recently obtained an Atari 400 labelled as "working". Upon setting everything up, it will only display a green screen. Every time I turn it on, it only displays a green screen. Where should I go from here? What are the most likely causes that I should investigate? Some more info I forgot to include: 1. A green screen is displayed 100% of the time so far. Never a black screen / anything else like some other posts I have seen. 2. I have tried inserting various cartridges, however something is wrong as carts do not click in all the way on this machine (tested and work fine on my other 400). So, I am not sure how to test other functions of the machine using carts until I can figure out this problem. 3. I have used the power supply with another Atari 400 which works fine.
  3. Current status (20-Feb-2021): I'm sending out PMs to those who have expressed interest. I'm doing this in the order that people responded. Initial Post (mostly) (10-Feb-2018): As many of you are aware, the Microvision by Milton Bradley is notorious for something people have called "screen rot", where the LCD screen becomes dark and unusable. Unfortunately, this effect is all too common. A fix for these would hopefully bring back to life these interesting and (I think) fun handheld systems. It took a few months or so, but I was finally able to get a couple of quotes for replacement LCD screens for the Microvision. These are intended to be drop-in replacements for existing screens. There's a number of costs related to this project. Some are known, such as engineering cost and production cost, and some are unknown, such as customs and duty, and shipping parts to me. Therefore, I've come up with some maximum prices in US dollars (shipping not included): Quantity 1: $22.00 Quantity 2+: $20.50 each Quantity 4+: $19.00 each Quantity 8+: $17.50 each [initial orders will probably be in the $17-$19 range each, regardless of quantity ordered (1+). This is because I'll be able to work on a bunch of orders one after the other, which will save time. Price later might be a few dollars more to account for time spent packaging single orders. Note that the exact price is to be determined, based on actual costs that I incur for the project]. I should mention that once you've bought and received your replacement screens, they're yours to do whatever you want with them... resell them at any price you see fit, put them in systems and sell those at any price you see fit, keep them on your shelf to look at, etc. FAQ: 1. Will the new screens be susceptible to screen rot? They shouldn't be. These will be brand new displays, built to high standards. We're used to the Microvision display being very poor, but most or nearly all other small LCD displays work well for many, many years. 2. What is the operating and storage temperature of the display. Operating Range: 0C to +50C. Storage Range: -10C to +60C. 3. Are the Zebra connectors (that connect the LCD screen to the board) reusable? Yes. They tend to stick a bit when they've been connected for a long time, but they seem to be robust in their ability to connect well with repeated use. 4. Are there installation instructions? Is it easy to install? Here are some pictures of disassembly of a Microvision (re-assembly is basically the reverse, although the front and back polarizer and reflector is not required). The green pad is still used, and the contact strips are still used. It's fairly easy, although sometimes the wires and other parts like to move around a bit, so plan on 20 minutes for a full upgrade.
  4. Hey everyone! As you have heard me talk about on the show a number of times, my RGB light-sixer has been down for the count for a few months now. I've done all I can with the knowledge and skills I have, which consist of poor soldering skills that didn't help anything. Thankfully @Nathan Strum has graciously offered his help to see if he's able to diagnose the issue and get it up and running again! In the mean time @Albert has sent me his S-Video modded four switch that we used for the first time on the most recent show, which was a HUGE step up in quality of the composite Atari Jr we've been using for a while now. Thank you so much Al!! Here's the VCS all packed up nicely and ready to be shipped to Nathan, it was sent on May 22 and just arrived to Nathan today, hooray! I'll let Nathan take over from here on the incredible saga of the RGB Light-Sixer repair. Thank you so much Nathan!! - James
  5. Ok guys, I’m stuck. I’m only 16 so I don’t reeeeeeeally know what I’m doing, but I need your help! Atariage, I’ve been scammed!! DUN DUN DUUUUUUUUN!! I bought a “working” atari 400 off of OfferUp whose only problem was that it had a cut video cable (Which I replaced with one I pulled from a broken 2600) and no PSU (which I had bought before the system arrived). I, being the idiot I am, DIDN’T test the system before starting my cleaning/retrobrite process (pictures below ;) ). After that week of school I threw the system back together aaaaaaaand... black screen... :( I’ve tried Everything I can think of, I reseated all the chips on the whole computer (cleaning the pins and the sockets as I did), cleaned the the ram and cpu board connectors, started it up with a star raiders cartridge, made sure everything was grounded properly, deoxidized the power jack, cleaned the channel selector, tried multiple tv’s (both new and old), and STILL I get that black screen... WHAT SHOULD I DO?! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  6. My Sears Super Video Arcade's transformer seems to be bad. I don't trust the one I found on ebay. Does anyone here have a known good transformer they would sell me or a recommendation for using off-the-shelf parts. I imagine it's unlikely there is an exact replacement being manufactured but maybe 2 transformers to get all the voltages?
  7. A long, LONG, time ago, on a computer, now dead, and another, and another, and 2 laptops, and finally on a USB drive, also now dead, I put together an instructional guide to taking apart a 410 drive, with emphasis on simplicity, and allowing for a couple improvements and repairs. It has been months since then, but the effort to put the guide out never died, and now today, I can release the guide in a photographic step-by-step format, in numerical order, with sudo-progressive sections, featuring a new solution to drive mechanism stuttering, a comparison of an old, used model, and a new-in-box, old-stock model drive, an electronics repair and problem-analysis section with documentation, and a more condensed, re-assembly guide. I would like to do a complete analysis of the head alignment procedure, and electronics replacement\upgrade\repair with my new oscilloscope, as described in the official documentation, which is included in this guide, and I had intended on making a version of this guide as a video, so I will combine them, but free-time is short right now, so it will have to wait. IT SHOULD BE NOTED THAT NEW BELTS WORK BETTER THAN OLD ONES, SO IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT, YOU SHOULD GET THEM HERE: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/260645-atari-cassette-belts-now-available-1010-410-xc12/ You will also note that the older model drive in this guide is using a few elastics in place of belts, this is not a permanent solution, and should only be used in a pinch, or in a testing situation where the belts would be subject to considerable use, for the sake of your precious belts! I hope it helps at least 1 person, then my effort is worth it. You will need 7-Zip, or another archiving program to extract the files. There are no programs or viruses in these archives, only pictures, text, and pdf. I take no responsibility for what you do, or fail to do, with this guide. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! And enjoy! http://www.4shared.com/archive/LlNW5P2uca/Final_Cut.html http://www.4shared.com/archive/UonUWLLsei/re-assembly.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/dzd8ks7j7o38boe/Final_Cut.7z http://www.mediafire.com/file/wpjqbzpa34qlj8x/re-assembly.7z
  8. This is a bit of a followup to a post I already made about a power supply I was working on. Anyway I was able to get the adam to run by just running my own wires to the db9 connector instead of using a serial cable. I now have the problem that the thing only runs if I hold down one of the reset switches and even then the picture is noisy, and the channel 3/4 switch seems to do nothing. If anyone knows what's going on here let me know please. I want my desk space back
  9. So im attempting to make a psu for my adam. I bought one that somoneone on YouTube recommended and followed a pinnout I found. When I tried it I got a black screen with some static. Checked the voltages at the supply while plugged in to the adam and they seem normal. Checked the voltage at the end of the cable and they were the same. Checked the voltages on the other side of the connector inside of the adam and they were low (like 10v, 1.7v, -6v) not sure what's up if the connector is bad, checked a few of the pins on it and they didn't have high resistance. I don't know if this is normal or not or even if the computer works, so any help is appreciated.
  10. Hi all, I recently bought an 800XL with some issues. When the system is powered on, it immediately boots to the Memory Test. Both ROMs fail the test, and the RAM test only completes two or three blocks before it fails with the screen attached. The keyboard is unresponsive and I need to power cycle the machine to reboot. I'm new to Atari 8-bits but I am confused how the ROMs fail the test yet the machine boots to the Memory Test screen. I would assume based on my limited reading reseating the socketed chips (very few on this particular machine), testing voltages, and ordering up new RAM and RAM sockets would be where to start on getting this thing running again. Am I missing anything else?
  11. Does anyone know where I'm going wrong with improving my NES? I've owned it since new but it's been in storage for 15 years until recently. Some of the games worked but intermittently. The first thing I did was cut the pin to the NES10 chip which worked. Then I manually bent the pins on the cartridge connector for a tighter grip and sprayed some WD40 branded electrical contact cleaner on the cartridges. This helped a bit. Then I removed the 72 pin connector and boiled it as recommended elsewhere, and cleaned the motherboard connector with a fibre pen, then wiped it with nail varnish remover and cotton buds. Since then it hasn't loaded a single game. Just a grey screen. I bought a new 72 pin connector, and cleaned every cartridge with the nail varnish remover and cotton buds, but still no joy. I'm wondering if I've left deposits on the motherboard or cartridge connectors with the fluids I'm using? The WD40 contact cleaner does say it's non-conductive, but that's why I used the nail varnish remover to clean afterwards. I have alcohol cleaner as well but I haven't used that yet. Considering flowing some solder onto the motherboard pins, and then running desolder braid over it to keep the solder area small and flat. Any other ideas?
  12. Hi, after some time of neglect I started my Atari 800 XL again after Christmas. My 1050 drive did not make the familiar sound when turned on. First I thought it was the sensor, but then I found out that the stepper motor driving the head does not move anymore. When trying to turn it nothing happens, it is just stuck. Did anybody recover from this? I see two options. I could try to get some penetrating oil inside of the stepper motor or use some brute force. Or a combination of both. I have plenty of time to wait for the oil to declamp whatever is in there. It can't get more broken. Does anybody know of a replacement motor? I just found a replacement for the main motor on the net so far. Or I could buy a broken 1050 where the mechanics are okay and the electronic died. Any helpful advise would be appreciated as I am a total hardware noob. Thank you Steve
  13. Well there it is. I've used it to replace the broken one in my controller. STL's attached. No Warranty! coleco controller thing.zip
  14. Greetings from Australia. I'm finally having a go at repairing my CC40. It had battery leakage damage which I've repaired - scrubbed the contacts clean and soldered in new wires. There was some damage on the ground plane too - it had gotten under the conformal coating too so I removed the coating and cleaned the blue residue off. I also took the opportunity to completely disassemble and clean the case and keys. Otherwise, I can't see any obvious damage. However it won't power on. Using either batteries or my 6VDC bench supply I can only get half the screen whilst I hold the power button down. Letting go of the button switches off again. Will start poking around but thought I'd check here in case any of the far more experienced people knew where I should zero in on (i've got an oscilloscope, logic analyser, etc.). Thanks, Brett.
  15. So I ran across something interesting last night. I have a 2 port 5200 that never worked for the last 5 years. I got it off ebay and ran through everything to get it to work but all I got was a green screen no matter what chips I replaced or what I cleaned. All I concluded was some of the ram chips get hotter than others but besides that I moved on and bought a working 4 port. Yesterday I found a VCS adapter in the wild for $20 and it ended up being a stock 2 port compatible only version, so just for the laughs I stuck it in my dead 2 port and then BAM! It's working... The 2 port still does not play regular 5200 games, or do anything else but for some reason it works with the VCS adapter. This has inspired me to join this forum and see what you guys have to say about it, in what circumstance will a 2 port work with the VCS adapter but nothing else? My idea is the 2 port is partially dead but works enough to pass through the VCS's signal to my TV but I don't know what exactly is broken about it. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks!
  16. I traded one of my working 2600 for untested 5200 with 2 ports. I expected 5200 to be non working and I was right. It doesn't work. I just have black screen with any game I tryed. Power adapter is working and I hawe LED light ON. I downloaded schematics and noticed that there is two 7805 power regulators. Checked one in VR1 location and no power in or out. Checked other one in VR2 and my power out is 5.10 VDC. I don't know is that normal or should I have closer to 5 VDC? Anyway I am not sure for first 7805 in VR1, should I have power in there or that one receive power latter when some switch send it throug? I decided also to check power in all chips under metal shielding and found out that I don't have power in A7, A14, A15, A16, A17, A18, A19, A20, A21, A22, A23, A24 and A25 (chips are marked in red on photo). I am not sure what to do next. I did fix some 2600s, but 5200 is much more complex console. Anyone who can help?
  17. Hello all, long time reader, first time poster on the forums. I recently picked up a junk Coleco Telstar Combat system made in ‘77 for a couple dollars. It was pretty roached, but it’s a rather obscure system so I couldn’t pass it up. However, after getting it all cleaned up, I plugged it to my TV to test it out, but all I got was static and no signal. I tried many times turning the system off and on but mostly no signal would appear at all. Sometime a staticky signal would fade in and out, but it was very inconsistent. Once, I even got a vague image of the actually game screen to appear for a few seconds. I’m fairly confident that the video cable coming from the system itself is not the issue and I have it hooked up to a known working RF switch that works well with my Atari 2600. So, I opened the system back up, removed the RF shield, and began to adjust the RF inductors (I’m using a modern tv). ( I attached pics for reference) There appears to be 2 RF inductor adjustments under the shield, and a screw adjustment at the top right corner of the board. I started adjusting the orange (bottom) inductor but that only caused the video to go from no signal, to staticky image, back to no signal. So I tried to adjust the white (top) RF inductor, but it wouldn’t budge. Upon further inspection, I saw the slot inside this inductor had several cracks. I desoldered the inductor from the board to examine it further, but couldn’t get it to budge. After resoldering it back on, I still have the same issue, however, the static signal seems to become more and more scarce, leaving me with no signal as I fiddle more and more with the inductors. I also tried adjusting the screw adjuster to no avail, but I’m not really sure which RF adjusters I should/need to adjust. Would the cracking in the inductor be enough to inhibit the video signal completely? Is there anything else that could be causing this issue besides the inductors? I have a rather limited knowledge on electronics as I have only been attempting retro repairs for about a year and a half, so any new nuggets of knowledge are greatly appreciated! This is a really neat and rare system that I would like to have working in my collection. Feel free to ask questions if something isn’t clear. Thanks in advance! (Note: I have the same problem regardless if I’m using batteries or the power supply).
  18. I recently bought and installed a ColecoVision AV mod kit from Console5. It's a pretty easy solder job, everything on my end soldering has been hunky dory. No accidental bridgings, no cold solder joints, pretty as a picture. Turn it on, looks fine to start, but then slowly the picture dims until a scrolling, dim, fuzzy image. I suspect something to be wrong with maybe my power supply, but just to be sure, I hook it up using the normal RF and turn it on. I still had it on the composite input, and lo and behold, I get a beautiful, stable image! I unplugged the RF cable and immediately the picture turned to a dim mess. Plugged it back in, composite video looked great. What the hell is going on here? (Below is the wiring diagram for this mod)
  19. So several years ago my girlfriend (at the time, now wife, lol) knocked my Wii U gamepad off our coffee table where it flipped onto the floor landing firmly on the left joystick. From then on, instead of clicking in as it should (used in a number of games) it is squishy and doesn't do anything. Luckily the directional aspect still works. Several years ago I contacted Nintendo and they said it would be $80 to fix the damn thing, no matter what. Whether it was run over by a bulldozer or if it just had one small $5 dollar part needed (like I assume mine does.) Has anyone attempted to ever repair their gamepads for any issue. Any possibility of finding parts for this? Only a couple games really have a critical need for that left joystick click, but the more I think about it the more I realize I hang onto Nintendo consoles for decades so i'd really like it working for the years ahead and maybe should just suck it up and pay the "nintendo" tax before I can't get it repaired at all anymore... Thoughts?
  20. So a friend picked up a Vectrex with a few games recently while on vacation. Worked great when he tested it at the seller's house. Placed the system in his trunk, drove home from Florida (we're in Tennessee), and then tried playing with it again once he got home. Only this time, it wouldn't come up. When he turned the power knob, the only indication that it was getting power at all was a bit of static when adjusting the volume knob. That initially led me to believe that it was something to do with the vibration or possible jarring in the trunk on the ride home that might have caused it to stop working. So he gave it to me to take a go at fixing it since I have at least basic electronic repair skills. I did a bit of research and went through all the basic repairs: popped open the case, discharged the tube, pulled, polished, and reseated all the removable ICs, re-flowed the 4 power pins coming in from the power board to the logic board, cleaned the power pins, checked the voltages coming into the logic board (got all good readings of -5, +5, and -13 reading from the PCB), and just did some general cleanup of the 30 years of crud that had accumulated on the board and in the case. Still no dice. I wanted to see if the monitor was lighting up at all, so I turned off all the lights in my office, then fired up the Vectrex. Sure enough, after turning it on and waiting 10-15 seconds, I gradually saw a little white dot rising from the bottom of the screen and coming to a stop a bit northeast of center. When I turned off the power, the white dot illuminated a bit brighter for a split-second, then immediately went away (rather than slowly fading out like my working Vectrex does at power-down). That behavior makes me think it's most likely to be a capacitor problem, but I wanted to check here with the experts before making any assumptions and dropping money on a cap kit that may be either unnecessary or futile. Of course, I don't know if that would necessarily explain why the BIOS (or whatever) doesn't still fire up and play the little musical ditty on startup. My own uninformed theory is that, even though the voltages are reading good, it's possible that bad capacitors on the power board are not supplying the amperage that the logic board or tube needs. Ok! Now that my own highly-amateur insights are done with: Any advice on how to proceed? Other places to check for voltages that might help? Maybe there are pics I could take and share that would assist with the diagnosis? I'm determined to resuscitate this glorious little black box, but I need some nudges in what is presumed to be the right direction. Thanks in advance!
  21. Hi all, I am hoping someone on here with some experience repair an asteroids PCB can help me troubleshoot a minor issue I am having. My left rotate is sticking intermittently. I have replaced the buttons so I know it is a problem on the logic board but I don't know where to look. Every once in a way the ship gets stuck rotating left and then i can rotate right and it will eventually fix itself during game play. It only crops up once in a while. Any ideas?
  22. I have an old US Colecovision power supply that game with my system, but I've been interested in replacing it for a while - it's been buzzing, and given the periodic graphical screwups I've been concerned that the issue is that power supply dying. I finally bit the bullet and bought a Canadian supply on ebay that was listed as tested and working, etc. Well when I got it and plugged it in, nothing happened. The game screen didn't pop up (though the static patterns on my tv changed slightly). I complained to the seller, who sent me another one he had available... same issue. Now one bad supply could happen, sure, but getting two seems a bit weird. Anyone have any idea what could be wrong, and how I could test that and fix it? The US supply still boots up the system, so I'm inclined to think it's related to the Canadian supplies themselves... unless there's an issue on the power jack's pins or something.
  23. So I have a CX2600 model that has some issues with a controller port. The left port always registers the button as being constantly pressed or not pressed at all. The joystick still works fine. I've tried multiple controllers and none of them work in the left but they all function in the right. I was wondering if anyone could help me diagnose the issue and potentially find a solution.
  24. I bought an intellivision 1 on ebay about two years ago and when i tested it it didn't work. i attempted to repair it and couldn't do it. I even removed the shielding and checked the board. I have no clue what im really doing do I decided to send some pictures. I cleaned it and couldn't figure out what was wrong. it has black screen with interference when i tried booting it up. I originally got nothing and thought the rf switchbox was broken but the cable was so i used and yellow double ended composite wire and tested it then i got the black screen. I know the box and cable works because i tested it on my model 1 genesis. anyway, let me know if you guys see the problem. Thanks!
  25. I’d like some advice. I seem to have bad luck with 2600 carts not working. I have three that will not work. Most recently, I was very excited to find Frankenstein’s Monster for a decent price at a retro shop I frequent and it won’t boot up. I cleaned it very well as I always do to my cartridges and even took the board out and polished the pins. Still nothing. How common is this? I’ve asked other collectors and most say they’ve rarely, or never, had a 2600 game they couldn’t get to work. Is there anything else I can try? Thanks so much. Duke
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