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Found 148 results

  1. Current status (20-Feb-2021): I'm sending out PMs to those who have expressed interest. I'm doing this in the order that people responded. Initial Post (mostly) (10-Feb-2018): As many of you are aware, the Microvision by Milton Bradley is notorious for something people have called "screen rot", where the LCD screen becomes dark and unusable. Unfortunately, this effect is all too common. A fix for these would hopefully bring back to life these interesting and (I think) fun handheld systems. It took a few months or so, but I was finally able to get a couple of quotes for replacement LCD screens for the Microvision. These are intended to be drop-in replacements for existing screens. There's a number of costs related to this project. Some are known, such as engineering cost and production cost, and some are unknown, such as customs and duty, and shipping parts to me. Therefore, I've come up with some maximum prices in US dollars (shipping not included): Quantity 1: $22.00 Quantity 2+: $20.50 each Quantity 4+: $19.00 each Quantity 8+: $17.50 each [initial orders will probably be in the $17-$19 range each, regardless of quantity ordered (1+). This is because I'll be able to work on a bunch of orders one after the other, which will save time. Price later might be a few dollars more to account for time spent packaging single orders. Note that the exact price is to be determined, based on actual costs that I incur for the project]. I should mention that once you've bought and received your replacement screens, they're yours to do whatever you want with them... resell them at any price you see fit, put them in systems and sell those at any price you see fit, keep them on your shelf to look at, etc. FAQ: 1. Will the new screens be susceptible to screen rot? They shouldn't be. These will be brand new displays, built to high standards. We're used to the Microvision display being very poor, but most or nearly all other small LCD displays work well for many, many years. 2. What is the operating and storage temperature of the display. Operating Range: 0C to +50C. Storage Range: -10C to +60C. 3. Are the Zebra connectors (that connect the LCD screen to the board) reusable? Yes. They tend to stick a bit when they've been connected for a long time, but they seem to be robust in their ability to connect well with repeated use. 4. Are there installation instructions? Is it easy to install? Here are some pictures of disassembly of a Microvision (re-assembly is basically the reverse, although the front and back polarizer and reflector is not required). The green pad is still used, and the contact strips are still used. It's fairly easy, although sometimes the wires and other parts like to move around a bit, so plan on 20 minutes for a full upgrade.
  2. What dumb little repair or tech thing have you done recently- that while simple and small- makes you feel accomplished and awesome? For me it was putting the guts of a well loved Gameboy Color into a new case with new pads and buttons to fix it- since many of the buttons didn't work well (or work in well.) and the case was not in great condition. Easy thing to do- but made me feel pretty good when it was all done and everything worked a hecka a lot better.
  3. This is a bit of a followup to a post I already made about a power supply I was working on. Anyway I was able to get the adam to run by just running my own wires to the db9 connector instead of using a serial cable. I now have the problem that the thing only runs if I hold down one of the reset switches and even then the picture is noisy, and the channel 3/4 switch seems to do nothing. If anyone knows what's going on here let me know please. I want my desk space back
  4. So im attempting to make a psu for my adam. I bought one that somoneone on YouTube recommended and followed a pinnout I found. When I tried it I got a black screen with some static. Checked the voltages at the supply while plugged in to the adam and they seem normal. Checked the voltage at the end of the cable and they were the same. Checked the voltages on the other side of the connector inside of the adam and they were low (like 10v, 1.7v, -6v) not sure what's up if the connector is bad, checked a few of the pins on it and they didn't have high resistance. I don't know if this is normal or not or even if the computer works, so any help is appreciated.
  5. Hi all, I recently bought an 800XL with some issues. When the system is powered on, it immediately boots to the Memory Test. Both ROMs fail the test, and the RAM test only completes two or three blocks before it fails with the screen attached. The keyboard is unresponsive and I need to power cycle the machine to reboot. I'm new to Atari 8-bits but I am confused how the ROMs fail the test yet the machine boots to the Memory Test screen. I would assume based on my limited reading reseating the socketed chips (very few on this particular machine), testing voltages, and ordering up new RAM and RAM sockets would be where to start on getting this thing running again. Am I missing anything else?
  6. Does anyone know where I'm going wrong with improving my NES? I've owned it since new but it's been in storage for 15 years until recently. Some of the games worked but intermittently. The first thing I did was cut the pin to the NES10 chip which worked. Then I manually bent the pins on the cartridge connector for a tighter grip and sprayed some WD40 branded electrical contact cleaner on the cartridges. This helped a bit. Then I removed the 72 pin connector and boiled it as recommended elsewhere, and cleaned the motherboard connector with a fibre pen, then wiped it with nail varnish remover and cotton buds. Since then it hasn't loaded a single game. Just a grey screen. I bought a new 72 pin connector, and cleaned every cartridge with the nail varnish remover and cotton buds, but still no joy. I'm wondering if I've left deposits on the motherboard or cartridge connectors with the fluids I'm using? The WD40 contact cleaner does say it's non-conductive, but that's why I used the nail varnish remover to clean afterwards. I have alcohol cleaner as well but I haven't used that yet. Considering flowing some solder onto the motherboard pins, and then running desolder braid over it to keep the solder area small and flat. Any other ideas?
  7. Hi, after some time of neglect I started my Atari 800 XL again after Christmas. My 1050 drive did not make the familiar sound when turned on. First I thought it was the sensor, but then I found out that the stepper motor driving the head does not move anymore. When trying to turn it nothing happens, it is just stuck. Did anybody recover from this? I see two options. I could try to get some penetrating oil inside of the stepper motor or use some brute force. Or a combination of both. I have plenty of time to wait for the oil to declamp whatever is in there. It can't get more broken. Does anybody know of a replacement motor? I just found a replacement for the main motor on the net so far. Or I could buy a broken 1050 where the mechanics are okay and the electronic died. Any helpful advise would be appreciated as I am a total hardware noob. Thank you Steve
  8. Well there it is. I've used it to replace the broken one in my controller. STL's attached. No Warranty! coleco controller thing.zip
  9. Ok guys, I’m stuck. I’m only 16 so I don’t reeeeeeeally know what I’m doing, but I need your help! Atariage, I’ve been scammed!! DUN DUN DUUUUUUUUN!! I bought a “working” atari 400 off of OfferUp whose only problem was that it had a cut video cable (Which I replaced with one I pulled from a broken 2600) and no PSU (which I had bought before the system arrived). I, being the idiot I am, DIDN’T test the system before starting my cleaning/retrobrite process (pictures below ;) ). After that week of school I threw the system back together aaaaaaaand... black screen... :( I’ve tried Everything I can think of, I reseated all the chips on the whole computer (cleaning the pins and the sockets as I did), cleaned the the ram and cpu board connectors, started it up with a star raiders cartridge, made sure everything was grounded properly, deoxidized the power jack, cleaned the channel selector, tried multiple tv’s (both new and old), and STILL I get that black screen... WHAT SHOULD I DO?! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  10. Greetings from Australia. I'm finally having a go at repairing my CC40. It had battery leakage damage which I've repaired - scrubbed the contacts clean and soldered in new wires. There was some damage on the ground plane too - it had gotten under the conformal coating too so I removed the coating and cleaned the blue residue off. I also took the opportunity to completely disassemble and clean the case and keys. Otherwise, I can't see any obvious damage. However it won't power on. Using either batteries or my 6VDC bench supply I can only get half the screen whilst I hold the power button down. Letting go of the button switches off again. Will start poking around but thought I'd check here in case any of the far more experienced people knew where I should zero in on (i've got an oscilloscope, logic analyser, etc.). Thanks, Brett.
  11. So I ran across something interesting last night. I have a 2 port 5200 that never worked for the last 5 years. I got it off ebay and ran through everything to get it to work but all I got was a green screen no matter what chips I replaced or what I cleaned. All I concluded was some of the ram chips get hotter than others but besides that I moved on and bought a working 4 port. Yesterday I found a VCS adapter in the wild for $20 and it ended up being a stock 2 port compatible only version, so just for the laughs I stuck it in my dead 2 port and then BAM! It's working... The 2 port still does not play regular 5200 games, or do anything else but for some reason it works with the VCS adapter. This has inspired me to join this forum and see what you guys have to say about it, in what circumstance will a 2 port work with the VCS adapter but nothing else? My idea is the 2 port is partially dead but works enough to pass through the VCS's signal to my TV but I don't know what exactly is broken about it. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks!
  12. I traded one of my working 2600 for untested 5200 with 2 ports. I expected 5200 to be non working and I was right. It doesn't work. I just have black screen with any game I tryed. Power adapter is working and I hawe LED light ON. I downloaded schematics and noticed that there is two 7805 power regulators. Checked one in VR1 location and no power in or out. Checked other one in VR2 and my power out is 5.10 VDC. I don't know is that normal or should I have closer to 5 VDC? Anyway I am not sure for first 7805 in VR1, should I have power in there or that one receive power latter when some switch send it throug? I decided also to check power in all chips under metal shielding and found out that I don't have power in A7, A14, A15, A16, A17, A18, A19, A20, A21, A22, A23, A24 and A25 (chips are marked in red on photo). I am not sure what to do next. I did fix some 2600s, but 5200 is much more complex console. Anyone who can help?
  13. Hey everyone! As you have heard me talk about on the show a number of times, my RGB light-sixer has been down for the count for a few months now. I've done all I can with the knowledge and skills I have, which consist of poor soldering skills that didn't help anything. Thankfully @Nathan Strum has graciously offered his help to see if he's able to diagnose the issue and get it up and running again! In the mean time @Albert has sent me his S-Video modded four switch that we used for the first time on the most recent show, which was a HUGE step up in quality of the composite Atari Jr we've been using for a while now. Thank you so much Al!! Here's the VCS all packed up nicely and ready to be shipped to Nathan, it was sent on May 22 and just arrived to Nathan today, hooray! I'll let Nathan take over from here on the incredible saga of the RGB Light-Sixer repair. Thank you so much Nathan!! - James
  14. Hello, I just bought two retro Sega handheld consoles recently but I just realised that both of their screen are burnt as faulty. So I am look for an experienced repair for new LCD screens to replace them. I will happy to pay for LCD screens from websites like Ebay, Amazon, etc. I will pay you for your service to fix them. I will happy to drop them in Sydney metro but I don't mind to post them in only Australia as well. They are Sega Nomad Genesis and Sega Game Gear consoles. See pictures of them attached.
  15. I have a vader model, I've replaced the RIOT chip, the 4.7uf caps, the 2200uf cap, and the voltage regulator. Once I got it running again I noticed the video was fuzzy. I decided to do an A/V mod and picked up this kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-2600-7800-Composite-Video-Mod-Upgrade-Kit-DIY/303092047733?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Side note: as others have mentioned in other forums about the a/v mod the video was dark, after removing one of the resistors from the mod circuit that solved that issue. The picture, however, is still fuzzy. I've uploaded a video showing what I mean: https://youtu.be/UXzVRivc258 Not sure where to look next, any suggestions? I have tried multiple composite cables and televisions as well so I'm pretty sure it's an issue on the board itself.
  16. Hello all, my name is Clark. I am the current owner of the XC1411 Prototype Sample Monitor which was made for the 130XE. After months of research (with only information I could find on the web, and nothing to tell me otherwise) I may have one of what seems to be only two proven to still currently exist, and of those the only one that "works"! This monitor has been graciously passed down through many people, including multiple users on the AtariAge forums here. I hope to make a difference though. This monitor has had many video problems throughout the ownership of all these people, and I aim to fix it once and for all. You can see in the photos below (N64 with Goemon's Great Adventure playing) that although it powers up and gets a perfect video signal, something is very wrong inside ~ likely a capacitor problem is my guess as that was what previous owners tried to repair. Although I am currently going to college to better my electrical engineering skills, I still do not feel confident enough to repair my current only prototype, especially since there's not any documentation to help guide me. I am in no rush to repair this, but I do wish to bring to VCFMW next year. I am in the north Chicago area, if anyone around there, or if you know anyone around there that could possibly help, let me know! Thank you all!
  17. I just got my Model 1 VA6.x (not sure if it's 6.5 or 6.8) recapped with new capacitors from console5.com. Got them soldered by a local PC repair shop. But I'm pretty sure it's not suppose to sound like this. It's pretty loud and drowns out alot of detail in the music and the treble seems high and shrill sounding depending on the instrument playing. My original childhood VA7 however sounds great in comparison, with punchier bass and percussion. It's much more balanced sounding. And the VA7 is supposed to be the "stinker" model 1s. What's the deal? Is there another component on the board bad on the VA6.x? Something to do with the low or high pass filter? I pretty much don't know anything about electronics/circuitry. Any idea what the problem could be? Thanks!
  18. I’d like some advice. I seem to have bad luck with 2600 carts not working. I have three that will not work. Most recently, I was very excited to find Frankenstein’s Monster for a decent price at a retro shop I frequent and it won’t boot up. I cleaned it very well as I always do to my cartridges and even took the board out and polished the pins. Still nothing. How common is this? I’ve asked other collectors and most say they’ve rarely, or never, had a 2600 game they couldn’t get to work. Is there anything else I can try? Thanks so much. Duke
  19. I’ve got a junior that turns on fine. You see the game, but it’s as if the signal is not fully lined up with the channel selected. I’ve tried different channels, gave it a cleaning, twisted the red thingie to see if that would help, asked politely but nothing’s made a difference. I also tried to find what’s always referred to as the chiclet looking film capacitor on earlier models but not having luck. Any experts know if there’s a specific that seems like an obvious fix?
  20. Hello everyone, One of my light sixers has been suffering from awful static and strange noises when I turn it on. The voltage regulator, channel select switch, and power switch have been repaired/replaced, yet it still doesn't work. I was thinking that it may be improper tuning on the rf modulator. Unfortunately, all of my allen wrenches cannot fit the hole in the modulator (either they are too small or too big). Is there any specific size or brand I should use? Maybe I should replace the entire rf modulator instead? Thank you for responding, Matt S.
  21. I have a roller controller I bought a year or two ago and I recently decided to revisit it. After looking up compatible games, I found that Centipede is the only game I own that works with the roller setting. It doesn't do anything when it's on. On joystick mode, it's pretty slow, requiring a lot of spinning to move the "player" very far. How responsive is the trackball supposed to be? And has anyone ever dealt with issues like this? Any suggestions? I suspect I have a turkey. Shame, cause it's in great cosmetic shape and I love trackballs in general.
  22. it works, but the screen is faded, some strange lines and water-drops are under it. i heard that replacing the polarizer or reflector may solve the problem of faded screen, but i don't know about these lines and water-drops. anyone help?
  23. Hello everyone, It has been quite a while since I have posted on this forum, and I am glad to be back. My collection of vintage computers, consoles, and other electronics has increased significantly. With this, I purchased an official Sunnyvale heavy sixer with two paddles and CX-10 joysticks in addition to my other defective heavy sixer. The most recent one I got with the included paddles and joysticks at first has no snowy picture, no problems with peripherals working, and perfect sound. However, with that being said, there is a small problem of some colors randomly changing hues on different games (not all of them, as far as I can tell). Also, when I first received it, the games would start normally, but after a while the screen became a fuzzy grey. It hasn't happened recently, but it worries me that something is wrong inside the Atari. I read up on other posts that this can happen as a result of a faulty av cable, a faulty capacitor, or the power regulator failing. Is it possible that either of them are nonfunctional, if not all? If I need to repair a part of the console, how much would it cost and what materials would I need to use? Thank you for replying, Matt S.
  24. I have two Colecovisions, one of which works. I bought it after I received the first one, which I was told had spent about 20 years in a roofless shed in a hurricane-prone area. Needless to say, it does not function properly. Lately I have been getting into modding older game consoles (I just finished overclocking a model 1 Sega Genesis with a VA7 board), and so now I have turned my attention to repairing the broken Colecovision. The primary issue is that, upon turning it on, there is only a black screen with a constant tone. No BIOS screen is displayed. From what I have read on this site and others, this is a somewhat common problem without a clear culprit. That being said, I have played around with the Colecovision and have drawn the following conclusions: 1. The problem must not be the power supply, since it properly powers the working Colecovision. Also, the Atari 2600 module still works with the broken Colecovision, so it must be getting enough power. I have also tested this with a second power supply. 2. The problem may be the power switch, but I doubt it. Even when I would get the Atari 2600 module to work, it occasionally took a couple of turn-on attempts and some pressure on the power swtich. However, I have never seen the Colecovision BIOS screen appear, and I would assume that if the issue was just poor switch contacts that I would eventually get the BIOS screen to appear. 3. The sound chip works. This I assume because I still get a constant tone when I turn it on, and the tone isn't always the same. I'm guessing it's just outputting whatever random value it starts with. I've wondered if this implicates the CPU or the BIOS since I would assume one of the first things it would do is set the sound chip to output no sound. 4. The video chip probably works. I found that with a cartridge inserted, I could occasionally get random color bars to appear on screen after jiggling the power switch some or rapidly turning the console on and off. However, it's very rare that I manage to achieve this, and I only remember it happening from when I first attempted to repair the console a few years ago. At this point, I am unsure about how I should proceed, and so I humbly ask for your advice on this issue. Specifically, I want to know the following: 1. Which component is most likely to fail and cause this to happen? 2. If a chip has failed, I know that most of them are (or were) common and could be replaced, but what about the BIOS chip? I'm sure these can only come from other Colecovisions, and I would prefer to repair mine with destroying another. If I do need to replace the BIOS chip, would it be possible to create a custom chip? 3. Could it be a capacitor? I've never encountered a faulty dielectric capicitor, but I've read that their tops puff out when they leak. How visible is that effect? 4. What can I do to diagnose the problem? If need be, I might be able to borrow an oscilloscope. 5. I've seen mention of a Colecovision service manual which gives detailed information on how to test each of the components. Does a .pdf of it exist anywhere? Any input on this problem would be much appreciated.
  25. Hey guys, so this time I messed up bad, no excuses here. Simply how can I fix this. Also will the product pictured below which is an conductive epoxy help? The game is Zelda for NES.
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