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Found 106 results

  1. I recently rescued a Vectrex from a crumbling abandoned building. After i had replaced the cord, i figured out it does not work. There is no sound but the normal humming. Does anyone know if i could repair this?
  2. Hi together! Someone gifted me a CX-75 LightPen, please see the picture attached. We have tested the pen at the NOMAM meeting, but it seems to be out of order. :-( Does anyone has ever repaired an Atari LightPen? Thank you so much in advance. All the best.
  3. I have a vader model, I've replaced the RIOT chip, the 4.7uf caps, the 2200uf cap, and the voltage regulator. Once I got it running again I noticed the video was fuzzy. I decided to do an A/V mod and picked up this kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-2600-7800-Composite-Video-Mod-Upgrade-Kit-DIY/303092047733?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Side note: as others have mentioned in other forums about the a/v mod the video was dark, after removing one of the resistors from the mod circuit that solved that issue. The picture, however, is still fuzzy. I've uploaded a video showing what I mean: https://youtu.be/UXzVRivc258 Not sure where to look next, any suggestions? I have tried multiple composite cables and televisions as well so I'm pretty sure it's an issue on the board itself.
  4. Hi everyone, I'm new here but I am a long time Atari collector and have always wanted to join this forum. anyways, I have an issue on my hands in the form of a beat up 4-port 5200 I just picked up. I got this thing for 5$, it came with the controllers and console, that's it. I don't have any more 5200s so I had to buy a switch box and a power supply. I just got all that in today and tested it, and I'm getting nothing, no sound, and no video. I already measured the supply and it looks good and the switch box seems to be outputting the correct voltage and has a reassuring spark. I heard something about different 5200s using different power supplies, I bought one that says 9.3 VDC (I hope that's ok.) I just don't know what to test next or where to go, the red led doesn't even light up when I turn it on. the switch is really gummy but I don't know which points to jump to bypass it. please help with my 5200, thanks!
  5. A long, LONG, time ago, on a computer, now dead, and another, and another, and 2 laptops, and finally on a USB drive, also now dead, I put together an instructional guide to taking apart a 410 drive, with emphasis on simplicity, and allowing for a couple improvements and repairs. It has been months since then, but the effort to put the guide out never died, and now today, I can release the guide in a photographic step-by-step format, in numerical order, with sudo-progressive sections, featuring a new solution to drive mechanism stuttering, a comparison of an old, used model, and a new-in-box, old-stock model drive, an electronics repair and problem-analysis section with documentation, and a more condensed, re-assembly guide. I would like to do a complete analysis of the head alignment procedure, and electronics replacement\upgrade\repair with my new oscilloscope, as described in the official documentation, which is included in this guide, and I had intended on making a version of this guide as a video, so I will combine them, but free-time is short right now, so it will have to wait. IT SHOULD BE NOTED THAT NEW BELTS WORK BETTER THAN OLD ONES, SO IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT, YOU SHOULD GET THEM HERE: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/260645-atari-cassette-belts-now-available-1010-410-xc12/ You will also note that the older model drive in this guide is using a few elastics in place of belts, this is not a permanent solution, and should only be used in a pinch, or in a testing situation where the belts would be subject to considerable use, for the sake of your precious belts! I hope it helps at least 1 person, then my effort is worth it. You will need 7-Zip, or another archiving program to extract the files. There are no programs or viruses in these archives, only pictures, text, and pdf. I take no responsibility for what you do, or fail to do, with this guide. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! And enjoy! http://www.4shared.com/archive/LlNW5P2uca/Final_Cut.html http://www.4shared.com/archive/UonUWLLsei/re-assembly.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/dzd8ks7j7o38boe/Final_Cut.7z http://www.mediafire.com/file/wpjqbzpa34qlj8x/re-assembly.7z
  6. Hello, So first a bit of a disclaimer - I am a bit of a noob when it comes to electronics repair et all - my soldering is crap, and I am definitely learning this stuff as I go along - so please pardon what I am certain is going to be apparent ignorance. I have a 2600 jr rev E which is displaying poor colors (screen appears mostly greyscalish/monochromatic with some yellow/green tinting on the sprites. I tried adjusting the color pot, which you can tell is affecting the underlying colors but onscreen the result is just changing the grey levels so the screen still remains mostly monochromatic. Adjusted the RF pot to no effect either. Low hanging fruit (IE assumption on my part) seemed like it might be a bad cap, so I purchased a recap kit from console5 for the JR. Replaced the caps (polarity on the caps is correct) Turned the machine back on, colors were perfect for 1 second, and then it reverted to the same symptoms, only this time with audio distortion as well. Ordering ESR meter from amazon to check caps, but while I wait the two days for prime to deliver, I would love to get the communities input. 1) What should I be checking to troubleshoot this? 2) I have another 2600 jr that works (I haven't opened it yet so not sure what rev the board is) - so I could desolder and swap TIA if that's appropriate (my inclination is to socket the chips as well, my board has all three chips soldered to board - so if there is room, I think I will socket them) 3) This is probably a really dumb question - but I am curious all the same, the Jr cap kits comes with new caps for C20, C26, C27, C29, C37 c26 is obviosuly the big cap @ 2200uF 16v the other four c20, c27, c29, c37 are listed @ 4.7uF 35v in the console5 wiki (https://console5.com/wiki/Atari_2600) That said the kit from console5 only comes with 3 replacement caps instead of four. My particular revision lacks c29 so 3 caps were fine, but are there revisions which have all four caps on them? Or does each board revision have only a combination of three of those four caps? . Thanks Xamfear
  7. Hi, everyone! I own 1981 Woodgrain Atari VCS CX2600A which I modded for composite video output and it has several issues. The first problem is ghosting of the picture. And the second problem is about the sound: volume of the 2nd audio channel is a lot lower than the first. I noticed the sound problem playing Pitfall as well as Synth Cart: all sounds in Pitfall are quieter than in other games, and in Synthcart when I turn on a beat on the right keypad it sounds very quiet too. When I switched the right keypad to bass or lead sounds they sound much quieter than sounds on the left keypad. The console has Rev. 13 PCB and AMI 8116XF TIA chip. The PCB hasn't 7805 buffer chip. I modded the console with this scheme: http://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_11_2017/post-62422-0-00139200-1511299299_thumb.png Previously, I tried to mod it with TheFutureWas8Bit's Composite Mod Kit, but the picture was really dark and colors were dull, so I decided that mod amplifies the signal not enough and replace it with the mod on scheme above. I replaced 5K trimmer on that scheme by just a wire because when the resistance is close to zero the picture was better, and when resistance was increased by trimmer, the ghosting effect became worse and the picture was really blurred. Beside the modding, I changed all 3 capacitors in the console and remove and resat all three chips in their cradles. Can anyone suggest what these problems may be related to? The only reason I can imagine is that the TIA chip is defective in some way. Or maybe I should test something else?
  8. I have two Colecovisions, one of which works. I bought it after I received the first one, which I was told had spent about 20 years in a roofless shed in a hurricane-prone area. Needless to say, it does not function properly. Lately I have been getting into modding older game consoles (I just finished overclocking a model 1 Sega Genesis with a VA7 board), and so now I have turned my attention to repairing the broken Colecovision. The primary issue is that, upon turning it on, there is only a black screen with a constant tone. No BIOS screen is displayed. From what I have read on this site and others, this is a somewhat common problem without a clear culprit. That being said, I have played around with the Colecovision and have drawn the following conclusions: 1. The problem must not be the power supply, since it properly powers the working Colecovision. Also, the Atari 2600 module still works with the broken Colecovision, so it must be getting enough power. I have also tested this with a second power supply. 2. The problem may be the power switch, but I doubt it. Even when I would get the Atari 2600 module to work, it occasionally took a couple of turn-on attempts and some pressure on the power swtich. However, I have never seen the Colecovision BIOS screen appear, and I would assume that if the issue was just poor switch contacts that I would eventually get the BIOS screen to appear. 3. The sound chip works. This I assume because I still get a constant tone when I turn it on, and the tone isn't always the same. I'm guessing it's just outputting whatever random value it starts with. I've wondered if this implicates the CPU or the BIOS since I would assume one of the first things it would do is set the sound chip to output no sound. 4. The video chip probably works. I found that with a cartridge inserted, I could occasionally get random color bars to appear on screen after jiggling the power switch some or rapidly turning the console on and off. However, it's very rare that I manage to achieve this, and I only remember it happening from when I first attempted to repair the console a few years ago. At this point, I am unsure about how I should proceed, and so I humbly ask for your advice on this issue. Specifically, I want to know the following: 1. Which component is most likely to fail and cause this to happen? 2. If a chip has failed, I know that most of them are (or were) common and could be replaced, but what about the BIOS chip? I'm sure these can only come from other Colecovisions, and I would prefer to repair mine with destroying another. If I do need to replace the BIOS chip, would it be possible to create a custom chip? 3. Could it be a capacitor? I've never encountered a faulty dielectric capicitor, but I've read that their tops puff out when they leak. How visible is that effect? 4. What can I do to diagnose the problem? If need be, I might be able to borrow an oscilloscope. 5. I've seen mention of a Colecovision service manual which gives detailed information on how to test each of the components. Does a .pdf of it exist anywhere? Any input on this problem would be much appreciated.
  9. so my Atari 2600 4 switch woody's left joysick up stopped working I tried multiple joysticks and the up direction doesn't work anymore. I have the pictures of the board what should I do? Now that I have the board out what would you do? I can solder but I don't know where to start. Also should I clean the board and how should I clean it up?
  10. What dumb little repair or tech thing have you done recently- that while simple and small- makes you feel accomplished and awesome? For me it was putting the guts of a well loved Gameboy Color into a new case with new pads and buttons to fix it- since many of the buttons didn't work well (or work in well.) and the case was not in great condition. Easy thing to do- but made me feel pretty good when it was all done and everything worked a hecka a lot better.
  11. Sorry to post this, I'm sure you guys absolutely hate seeing these things, but I've been working on this Jaguar for several weeks now and am at the point where I could use some assistance. I got all the information I used to fix this Jaguar (including troubleshooting tips and double checking methods) from the AtariAge forums and think you guys are my best shot at solving this. Maybe this could even help people in the future fix Jaguars that weren't as simple as replacing 3-4 things. So I got a broken Atari Jaguar off a guy I've know like three years, and I know he had been sitting on it for at least that long. He has a bad habit of buying broken consoles with intention of repairing them, but he doesn't even have the tools to do it. Anyway he finally agreed to sell it to me, and it was a super good deal and is one of the only consoles I'm still missing, so I wanted to start working on it right away. I have quite a bit of experience doing some basic console repairs and modding, hell I even recapped both the monitors in my arcade cabinets. Figured I had a good shot. Plugged in a cart, turned it on, nothing. No power. Got pretty excited, no power is usually a pretty simple fix for most game consoles. Spent some good time doing my homework (mostly on these forums), and sure enough, UC38, REG1, and C134 were all blown to high hell. Someone used the wrong power supply on it (which I find interesting since he included a 1st party power supply and video cable with it... maybe he bought those himself who knows). Anyway, bought a new U38 and REG1 off console5 and caps for C134 and C158 (just in case) off mouser since I needed caps for more Game Gear repairs anyway. Got em soldered in, turned it on, eureka, we have power boys. But the video... is just this - https://i.imgur.com/GnuJM1l.jpg When you boot up a game, it's dark blue on black, then about 5 seconds later (after the Jag splash screen finishes I'm assuming) it changes it to like blue and tan, which I'm assuming is the game video. No sound at all. It gives the exact same video using RF or the composite cable (for RF I'm using a TG16 cable since they are compatible). I have an official Jag composite cable for it as well as a third party one, both give the same thing so nothing is wrong with any of my cables. I have 3 games for it too, so I doubt it's any of the carts. Also does the same thing if I use a Genesis model 1 power supply (which is compatible with the Jaguar). I have to say, I'm pretty stumped, and am looking for things to test next, and where to go from here. I did a bunch of power readings with my multimeter, and the U38 itself seems to be functioning properly, all the power readings are what they should be. C158 is also giving me the amount it should (it isn't too low). I was hoping someone could help me rule out my REG1 being the culprit. Using Pin 4 of the U38 as GND, I took power readings of all the pins. Pin 1 gives me 5V (which is correct I believe), Pin 8 gives me 11.47V (which I think might be high but I have no idea), and all the other pins give me a reading of 0V. Is this correct? Also I remember somewhere on the AtariAge forums someone mentioned you can test REG1 by jumping Pin1 of REG1 to L7 and get audio if your REG1 is broken, and that trick did not work for me, I still don't have audio, which makes me think it's something else. The only thing I have not done to this Jaguar yet is a full recap, but I'd like to avoid that if it won't do anything. None of the caps are giving me readings that are suspect (IE, incredibly low), nor do any of them appear damaged (C134 was unbelievable obvious). I have a full chart of the capacitor readings from my Jaguar if anyone is interested in seeing it. Sorry about the huge wall of text, I want to get in as much info as possible initially so no one is like HaVe YoU tAkEn VoLtAgE rEaDiNgS yEt?? (lol)
  12. So.... I have an Atari 800 with the Hi Tek (white sleeve) keyboard. Space bar is not working. Took it apart to see what the problem was. Turns out the contacts that come together inside the plunger are mangled. They will need to be replaced. Is this an easy operation? Where can I get a plunger and contacts? I know Best Electronics still has the full keyboard, but this is my second computer (sold 400 to buy 800) from the early 80's, and would like to keep it as original as possible. Thanks in advance....
  13. I was thinking of Modding my 2600 JR to output AV video. I did a mod to my JR around a year ago, and i ended up killing my board when i tried changing the jacks on it, and i can't find the original posting for the mod i Did. I saw this AV mod for the JR, and i was wondering how well it worked. https://atariage.com/howto/composite.html I think i remember some people saying the video quality wasn't the best, but I am just looking for something that is reasonably good enough to use. If the link does not work just try googling "atariage 2600 jr av"
  14. I recently bought a broken intellivision off of eBay, and after messing around with it i believe that the problem is the CPU. I don't have a working unit, or any other units for that matter. I was hoping i could find a new cpu (preferably a whole board, in case there is any other problems with it) from someone on this form. I really want to try and play some intv games, especially since they are cheap.
  15. Hi everybody. I've got an Atari 400 with a keyboard that doesn't register 2,W,S,X, and Shift. I already swapped the 4051 and POKEY chip with known working ones so that isn't the issue. I did plug in a fully working keyboard from another unit and it worked fine in it. I was looking through old threads and found recommendations for myatari.com. It looks like the site is down for maintenance though. I'm not sure how long that has been offline. Does anybody here know if these are available anywhere else? Thanks guys. You've been a great help to me.
  16. so about a year ago i did a 2600 Jr av mod i found somewhere where you added 3 resistors to some pins on a chip and got composite video out... only problem is i tried adding a set of jacks instead of having a cable hang out... but now the video signal is gone. i spent like 3 hours trying to fix it, but all i get is scrolling white. i can sorta see some of the sprites, but i can't figure out what was going on, and ended up removing the added parts... but now the capacitor for sound lost a leg... so i need a new one of those also. anyone know of the mod i'm talking about, like i said i cant find it again, or at least another one that worked for you? also it does the same thing when RF is connected back.
  17. I recently got my old first computer out of storage. It's a 130xe and it's been dead for 30 years, and I wanted to repair it. It shows a solid black screen when running. I ran a logic analyzer across a variety of pins on the system to see what seemed to be working. The address and data lines across all ram chips, the sally, antic, and gtia all seem to be good. The BASIC chip also has solid connectivity to these lines. The OS Rom chip was socketed by the former owner of the machine (I bought it in 1986 used,) and most of the pins on this socket aren't making contact to the address and data lines. This is likely the cause of the fault in the system. The socket doesn't seem to be gripping the pins very well and the chip comes out a bit too easily. But the other thing I found is that P5 on ANTIC, which goes to P20 on GTIA, and P23 on GTIA are all solid logic low, when the Sam's guide says they should be going back and forth between low and high. Most of the other pin the wave form is provided for seem to have good signals on the analyzer. (I don't have a scope to verify the waveforms though.) Would the OS chip being disconnected cause it to be a solid black screen all on its own, or could there be some other problems with the GTIA and ANTIC? I'm going to be ordering a new socket for that (and maybe a new ROM, just to be safe,) and wanted to order any other chips that could be bad at the same time so I don't need to wait around twice if the first thing doesn't fix it. (I already have sockets for the RAM chips, and new ram chips on the way, since I figured this is a common failure mode with a MT ram based 130xe's.)
  18. http://retroconsoles.wikia.com Hello everyone, I'm the administrator of Retro Consoles Wiki (there I go by ITEM-3), a brand new website whose goal is to collect all the scattered information for repairs and mods for all video game consoles, especially older consoles. This includes high-quality pictures of every revision of each console's motherboard, identification of the chips, and links to their documentation. Related information like controllers, accessories, flashcarts, console clones, and general tips for working with electronics will eventually be a part of it. The site is just over a week old and has mostly been an effort on 4chan's /vr/ board (thread: http://boards.4chan.org/vr/res/694016), and so there isn't much content yet, but it is an ongoing project, and more content is being added everyday. It's hosted on Wikia for now, but I will move the site to paid hosting if more people start using it. Here are a couple examples of the types of pages and guides that are currently on the site: Sega Genesis motherboard info: http://retroconsoles.wikia.com/wiki/Sega_Genesis_Hardware 3DO FZ-10 Repair: http://retroconsoles.wikia.com/wiki/3DO_FZ-10_Repair_-_Lubricate_the_Laser_Sled I'm here to spread the word about the wiki and see if anyone would like to contribute or make a request for specific content. If you have a complicated issue with a console that you have not been able to repair, I encourage you to create a page detailing the problem. I'd like to hear any suggestions you might have for the site as well. I hope to see you all there!
  19. I picked up a CX-2600 from a garage sale and was eager to play and it worked perfectly until I had my friend play with me. This is when I found out that the right controller port's fire button didn't work. I was thinking it may be something with the 16 pin bug or the diodes and was wondering if I should order this kit to repair it.
  20. Hi, I recently purchased a very nice looking Lynx II from eBay which was listed as faulty. Upon opening it I found that the ribbon cable which connects to the LCD screen was damaged and had split half way along its length. This didn't worry me so much because I had purchased it with the view to installing one of McWill's modern LCD displays, however upon further investigation it seems like there is some other problem. The unit was not powering on with either AC or DC power when a game was inserted. Seeing as this is a common problem I purchased a kit of replacement parts and proceeded to do the following: - Replaced all the electrolytic capacitors, - Added a new MOSFET transistor on Q12, - Replaced the transistors on Q4 and Q13, - Replaced the Zener diode - Replaced R74 with a 30 ohm resistor - Replaced the original power jack Unfortunately even after all these steps the unit will not power up on either batteries or AC power. Is a working LCD display needed for the unit to power up? Is there any more repairs I can attempt before giving up? I have checked it with a miltimeter and power is entering the circuitry but it just doesn't seem to be enough to get it running. Any suggestions as to next steps for trouble shooting? It's a very nice looking PCB with no corrosion so I was kind of surprised I could not get it running. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers
  21. Hello guys n' gals.... I have a DMG Gameboy with a screwed up LCD. The right part is darker than the left and it has a horizontal line.... (I think I bent the H/V ribbon cables too much...) Could it be replaced??? The LCD is custom, but I have been able to find simmiliar screen sizes and resolutions on the 'Bay... I'd try to get a Gameboy Pocket LCD if I could find them. Probably a Color/Advance LCD wont fit? Any options? Thanks....... Al.
  22. So a friend picked up a Vectrex with a few games recently while on vacation. Worked great when he tested it at the seller's house. Placed the system in his trunk, drove home from Florida (we're in Tennessee), and then tried playing with it again once he got home. Only this time, it wouldn't come up. When he turned the power knob, the only indication that it was getting power at all was a bit of static when adjusting the volume knob. That initially led me to believe that it was something to do with the vibration or possible jarring in the trunk on the ride home that might have caused it to stop working. So he gave it to me to take a go at fixing it since I have at least basic electronic repair skills. I did a bit of research and went through all the basic repairs: popped open the case, discharged the tube, pulled, polished, and reseated all the removable ICs, re-flowed the 4 power pins coming in from the power board to the logic board, cleaned the power pins, checked the voltages coming into the logic board (got all good readings of -5, +5, and -13 reading from the PCB), and just did some general cleanup of the 30 years of crud that had accumulated on the board and in the case. Still no dice. I wanted to see if the monitor was lighting up at all, so I turned off all the lights in my office, then fired up the Vectrex. Sure enough, after turning it on and waiting 10-15 seconds, I gradually saw a little white dot rising from the bottom of the screen and coming to a stop a bit northeast of center. When I turned off the power, the white dot illuminated a bit brighter for a split-second, then immediately went away (rather than slowly fading out like my working Vectrex does at power-down). That behavior makes me think it's most likely to be a capacitor problem, but I wanted to check here with the experts before making any assumptions and dropping money on a cap kit that may be either unnecessary or futile. Of course, I don't know if that would necessarily explain why the BIOS (or whatever) doesn't still fire up and play the little musical ditty on startup. My own uninformed theory is that, even though the voltages are reading good, it's possible that bad capacitors on the power board are not supplying the amperage that the logic board or tube needs. Ok! Now that my own highly-amateur insights are done with: Any advice on how to proceed? Other places to check for voltages that might help? Maybe there are pics I could take and share that would assist with the diagnosis? I'm determined to resuscitate this glorious little black box, but I need some nudges in what is presumed to be the right direction. Thanks in advance!
  23. Well I saved the Saturn and below I did the video on how I went about replacing the laser. I did not go into too much troubleshooting info since I did swap assemblies with another unit. I had to justify the failed laser but just in case anyone encounters similar problems maybe this will help out. Comments are welcome. SAVE THE SATURN!
  24. So several years ago my girlfriend (at the time, now wife, lol) knocked my Wii U gamepad off our coffee table where it flipped onto the floor landing firmly on the left joystick. From then on, instead of clicking in as it should (used in a number of games) it is squishy and doesn't do anything. Luckily the directional aspect still works. Several years ago I contacted Nintendo and they said it would be $80 to fix the damn thing, no matter what. Whether it was run over by a bulldozer or if it just had one small $5 dollar part needed (like I assume mine does.) Has anyone attempted to ever repair their gamepads for any issue. Any possibility of finding parts for this? Only a couple games really have a critical need for that left joystick click, but the more I think about it the more I realize I hang onto Nintendo consoles for decades so i'd really like it working for the years ahead and maybe should just suck it up and pay the "nintendo" tax before I can't get it repaired at all anymore... Thoughts?
  25. Picked up an Atari 1040 STe with a SC1224 Color monitor used (craigslist) for a good price. It has been working all fine and dandy except a couple odd issues. The volume knob is Glitchy in that it only sometimes works and the sound will cut out and after about 20 minutes of usage.. The thing just REEKS!!! as in the entire apartment smells like "stale burnt popcorn" as someone in the chat room so eloquently suggested. This really makes me sad the monitor is a cute little thing and I wanted to enjoy it for long periods of time without worry. The smell is so strong that even after opening a window with a fan on the highest setting blowing on it, it is still lingering there. I'm getting worried the damn thing might even explode so it can't be too safe to use plus the smell is causing me migraine headaches.
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