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Found 122 results

  1. Hello all, I'm a long time Atari fan. My parents bought an ATARI ST in the late 80s so I was thrilled when I saw the Atari Lynx and later Lynx 2- but of course I didn't get one... However, I always so much wanted a Lynx 2- so I was very much excited when I won an auction for a working unit a few days ago with a few games. I paid too much yes, but I really wanted one- so I was devastated when I switched it on to see this: Dots on Display So my question is... if it's fixable? They don't seem to be dead pixels as it depends on the viewing angle: Different viewing angle Also these marks can be seen when the unit is switched off: On switched off unit (opened it) I somehow expect the answer to be no , so is there any way to get an original screen? A mod with a Mcwill or Bennvenn is not an option to me, currently. I'm really sad about this issue as a lynx was my childhood dream. Yes, I talked to the seller and after some hassle I agreed for a small discount. Just not in the mood for arguing in these times. Thx for reading, Dan
  2. Hi everyone! I just had the good fortune to pick up my first Atari computer, a 1040stf. I fixed several problems like the mouse not working (really nasty rollers) and the stuck knobs on the monitor. However, the floppy drive seems to be totally dead. It never spins up, the head never moves, and I get no drive lights. I opened it up to confirm it is plugged in correctly. This is a "big eject button" ST as I've heard them called, with a Chinon drive. I have access to soldering equipment, a multimeter, occiloscope, etc, just not until a few days from now (I'm away from home ATM). What can I do to get this working? Are there easy replacements? (I don't really want to hack up the case for a PC drive or gotek). I've attached photos of what it does at the moment.
  3. Minty new SX-64 keyboard mylars are now available at https://www.sellmyretro.com/offer/details/40057 I just did the replacement on mine and it works great! I was a bit shocked at the internal assembly of these keyboards and having to remove *every* key mechanism - that's a first. But after careful disassembly and installation, first test went off flawlessly : )
  4. My intelvison 2 isn't outputting 12v when the rf modulator is connected. If I remove it the connection reads exactly 12v but as soon as its connected it drops to 11-6ish volts. Also was not getting any video from the rf out, and my composite mod is having problems keeping a stable signal. Wondering if the low voltage is the source of the problem. Also one of the ic's gets really hot and I'm not sure if that's related to the voltage or if that's normal. There is actually some yellowing inside the case in the area that its located.
  5. I noticed that when my mod board is connected the 12v connection for the rf modulator drops to like 4v. also noticed that when its disconnected it's still only like 11.4v. And one of the chips on the board gets very hot. I'm wondering if this is why after a few seconds of use the picture becomes less stable (text characters basically shake) Also i took the cage off the rf modulator to make room so not sure if that has anything to do with my problem. been trying to get this thing to work for so long its kind of annoying.
  6. Hi. I recently bought an Atari Jaguar of eBay. It is PAL. It seems to power on and shows a green light. But when I hook it up to the TV, I see a distorted image (what you see when you don’t insert an Atari 2600 cartridge properly) I’ve been told by someone that the console is working as it should and the image I see is caused by the PAL system being used in an NTSC country. What do you think? By the way, I am using the AV signal. Is there something I need to buy to get it working? Thank you!
  7. i got my hands on a copy of the original legend of zelda but its seen better days, i got most of the corrosion off but the diodes and capacitor either came lose in the bath or were missing when i got it and without them i cant really test to see how the chips are doing, unfortunately i cant find any details on the specs of the missing parts and this seems like it may be a less common board type for this game, it has five chips and a single center capacitor, or rather had, the capacitor and both diodes broke lose
  8. Well there it is. I've used it to replace the broken one in my controller. STL's attached. No Warranty! coleco controller thing.zip
  9. Got an Astrocade without having any guarantees about it working and … wouldn't you know … no worky. It teases. It taunts. Sometimes on boot I get garbled but mostly visible screen, other times a screen like figure 3 here, which then does various strange things. I've attached image and video here. Is it a doorstop? Or is there hope? I haven't gone through the service docs yet or opened it up - it's totally new to me. It came with two extra controllers as well as a nice selection of games, the box, and several game manuals. Thanks for any tips / advice! Atrocade-NoWorky.mov
  10. What dumb little repair or tech thing have you done recently- that while simple and small- makes you feel accomplished and awesome? For me it was putting the guts of a well loved Gameboy Color into a new case with new pads and buttons to fix it- since many of the buttons didn't work well (or work in well.) and the case was not in great condition. Easy thing to do- but made me feel pretty good when it was all done and everything worked a hecka a lot better.
  11. Been going on a bit of a repair kick lately and got myself into a bit of trouble / mystery. Way back in the olden days, I got a catalog in the mail from some outfit named INTV Corporation. I ordered an INTV System III from them - so I could have my very own Intellivision to haul off to college! In the ensuing years, that system has gone through quite a lot, even tolerating my "repairs". One time when opening it (another story there, let's just say it needed fixing), I essentially destroyed the ribbon cable connecting the power board to the main board. I hacked together an absolutely horrible solution, and so it stayed for the past 15 years or so. I started using different systems as "daily drivers". I finally decided to remedy the hacky repair, because the system was unstable due to … shall we say … some extremely bad work on my part. At the time I did the "repair" I damaged the traces on the power board where the ribbon cable used to be, and age has not been kind to that board. (In my defense, I did the repair using materials at hand and a soldering gun -- yeah, that was fun!) OK, backstory done. Let's move to today: I removed the mess from the old "repair" and put in something more tidy and less prone to accidental grounding-of-things-that-should-not-be-grounded. However, the damage done so many years back must have caused more issues. The system seemed to work -- until I closed it all up. More investigation revealed further connectivity problems due to damaged traces. So, I reworked the connections again. More stress on an already compromised board... Now, I still have a really bad multimeter. If you're curious, it's this one. So while I can say the voltages on the connector pins are "ballpark", I can't say with any confidence that they are "in spec". Here's the weirdness: One controller does not work. (the right controller). But only with this power board. If I connect a different power board, both controllers work just fine. With this super duper hacky-fixed-up power board, only the left controller works. Using the 4.1 test cart, the chips all pass tests, etc. but I get zero response from the right controller... Swapping back to the brand new power board, everything works just fine. Ideas? I'd like to keep the original parts intact - hacked up damage and all - if possible. Plus it's useful to have a functioning, separate power board available for testing things like this.
  12. Does anyone know the size and thread type of the Atari 2600 Junior plastic case outer screws? I inherited a free Junior 2600 that works but has no screws holding it together.
  13. I have an ATR 8000 that does not power on. I was wondering if anyone has experience fixing or replacing the power supplies for these? Looks like an unusual PSU. Many thanks!
  14. Just wondering if these parts commonly go on a intv model 1. Mine works but the board is black. It's the two black parts. Just want to know in case I have to order parts in the future.
  15. So I had problems with my 2600 so I decided to try my hand at the AV Mod. I did all the work, it doesn't look great but I hoped it would work, but it didn't. Is anyone able to see what I did wrong and if I can fix it? https://imgur.com/a/xY43JRJ
  16. Hello all, long time reader, first time poster on the forums. I recently picked up a junk Coleco Telstar Combat system made in ‘77 for a couple dollars. It was pretty roached, but it’s a rather obscure system so I couldn’t pass it up. However, after getting it all cleaned up, I plugged it to my TV to test it out, but all I got was static and no signal. I tried many times turning the system off and on but mostly no signal would appear at all. Sometime a staticky signal would fade in and out, but it was very inconsistent. Once, I even got a vague image of the actually game screen to appear for a few seconds. I’m fairly confident that the video cable coming from the system itself is not the issue and I have it hooked up to a known working RF switch that works well with my Atari 2600. So, I opened the system back up, removed the RF shield, and began to adjust the RF inductors (I’m using a modern tv). ( I attached pics for reference) There appears to be 2 RF inductor adjustments under the shield, and a screw adjustment at the top right corner of the board. I started adjusting the orange (bottom) inductor but that only caused the video to go from no signal, to staticky image, back to no signal. So I tried to adjust the white (top) RF inductor, but it wouldn’t budge. Upon further inspection, I saw the slot inside this inductor had several cracks. I desoldered the inductor from the board to examine it further, but couldn’t get it to budge. After resoldering it back on, I still have the same issue, however, the static signal seems to become more and more scarce, leaving me with no signal as I fiddle more and more with the inductors. I also tried adjusting the screw adjuster to no avail, but I’m not really sure which RF adjusters I should/need to adjust. Would the cracking in the inductor be enough to inhibit the video signal completely? Is there anything else that could be causing this issue besides the inductors? I have a rather limited knowledge on electronics as I have only been attempting retro repairs for about a year and a half, so any new nuggets of knowledge are greatly appreciated! This is a really neat and rare system that I would like to have working in my collection. Feel free to ask questions if something isn’t clear. Thanks in advance! (Note: I have the same problem regardless if I’m using batteries or the power supply).
  17. Okay this isn't necessarily the right forum for this question but it's the closest I can think of where someone might actually know what I'm talking about and have an answer. So if you open up a typical Atari 2600 joystick, the wires that connect to the circuit board have (on the end of them) a tiny clamp which slides onto a trace on the board. Sometimes when I open up a joystick to repair it this is broken. I want to order some replacements. I can't seem to figure out what this part is called in order to search for it. Example: The closest I can find is a search for "wire crimps" from mouser.com but none of those look quite right.
  18. http://retroconsoles.wikia.com Hello everyone, I'm the administrator of Retro Consoles Wiki (there I go by ITEM-3), a brand new website whose goal is to collect all the scattered information for repairs and mods for all video game consoles, especially older consoles. This includes high-quality pictures of every revision of each console's motherboard, identification of the chips, and links to their documentation. Related information like controllers, accessories, flashcarts, console clones, and general tips for working with electronics will eventually be a part of it. The site is just over a week old and has mostly been an effort on 4chan's /vr/ board (thread: http://boards.4chan.org/vr/res/694016), and so there isn't much content yet, but it is an ongoing project, and more content is being added everyday. It's hosted on Wikia for now, but I will move the site to paid hosting if more people start using it. Here are a couple examples of the types of pages and guides that are currently on the site: Sega Genesis motherboard info: http://retroconsoles.wikia.com/wiki/Sega_Genesis_Hardware 3DO FZ-10 Repair: http://retroconsoles.wikia.com/wiki/3DO_FZ-10_Repair_-_Lubricate_the_Laser_Sled I'm here to spread the word about the wiki and see if anyone would like to contribute or make a request for specific content. If you have a complicated issue with a console that you have not been able to repair, I encourage you to create a page detailing the problem. I'd like to hear any suggestions you might have for the site as well. I hope to see you all there!
  19. I picked up a CX-2600 from a garage sale and was eager to play and it worked perfectly until I had my friend play with me. This is when I found out that the right controller port's fire button didn't work. I was thinking it may be something with the 16 pin bug or the diodes and was wondering if I should order this kit to repair it.
  20. so my Atari 2600 4 switch woody's left joysick up stopped working I tried multiple joysticks and the up direction doesn't work anymore. I have the pictures of the board what should I do? Now that I have the board out what would you do? I can solder but I don't know where to start. Also should I clean the board and how should I clean it up?
  21. Hi, I recently purchased a very nice looking Lynx II from eBay which was listed as faulty. Upon opening it I found that the ribbon cable which connects to the LCD screen was damaged and had split half way along its length. This didn't worry me so much because I had purchased it with the view to installing one of McWill's modern LCD displays, however upon further investigation it seems like there is some other problem. The unit was not powering on with either AC or DC power when a game was inserted. Seeing as this is a common problem I purchased a kit of replacement parts and proceeded to do the following: - Replaced all the electrolytic capacitors, - Added a new MOSFET transistor on Q12, - Replaced the transistors on Q4 and Q13, - Replaced the Zener diode - Replaced R74 with a 30 ohm resistor - Replaced the original power jack Unfortunately even after all these steps the unit will not power up on either batteries or AC power. Is a working LCD display needed for the unit to power up? Is there any more repairs I can attempt before giving up? I have checked it with a miltimeter and power is entering the circuitry but it just doesn't seem to be enough to get it running. Any suggestions as to next steps for trouble shooting? It's a very nice looking PCB with no corrosion so I was kind of surprised I could not get it running. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers
  22. Hello guys n' gals.... I have a DMG Gameboy with a screwed up LCD. The right part is darker than the left and it has a horizontal line.... (I think I bent the H/V ribbon cables too much...) Could it be replaced??? The LCD is custom, but I have been able to find simmiliar screen sizes and resolutions on the 'Bay... I'd try to get a Gameboy Pocket LCD if I could find them. Probably a Color/Advance LCD wont fit? Any options? Thanks....... Al.
  23. so about a year ago i did a 2600 Jr av mod i found somewhere where you added 3 resistors to some pins on a chip and got composite video out... only problem is i tried adding a set of jacks instead of having a cable hang out... but now the video signal is gone. i spent like 3 hours trying to fix it, but all i get is scrolling white. i can sorta see some of the sprites, but i can't figure out what was going on, and ended up removing the added parts... but now the capacitor for sound lost a leg... so i need a new one of those also. anyone know of the mod i'm talking about, like i said i cant find it again, or at least another one that worked for you? also it does the same thing when RF is connected back.
  24. I recently got my old first computer out of storage. It's a 130xe and it's been dead for 30 years, and I wanted to repair it. It shows a solid black screen when running. I ran a logic analyzer across a variety of pins on the system to see what seemed to be working. The address and data lines across all ram chips, the sally, antic, and gtia all seem to be good. The BASIC chip also has solid connectivity to these lines. The OS Rom chip was socketed by the former owner of the machine (I bought it in 1986 used,) and most of the pins on this socket aren't making contact to the address and data lines. This is likely the cause of the fault in the system. The socket doesn't seem to be gripping the pins very well and the chip comes out a bit too easily. But the other thing I found is that P5 on ANTIC, which goes to P20 on GTIA, and P23 on GTIA are all solid logic low, when the Sam's guide says they should be going back and forth between low and high. Most of the other pin the wave form is provided for seem to have good signals on the analyzer. (I don't have a scope to verify the waveforms though.) Would the OS chip being disconnected cause it to be a solid black screen all on its own, or could there be some other problems with the GTIA and ANTIC? I'm going to be ordering a new socket for that (and maybe a new ROM, just to be safe,) and wanted to order any other chips that could be bad at the same time so I don't need to wait around twice if the first thing doesn't fix it. (I already have sockets for the RAM chips, and new ram chips on the way, since I figured this is a common failure mode with a MT ram based 130xe's.)
  25. I just picked up a pristine looking 2600 heavy sixer but when I turn it on, i'm getting blue lines usually across the screen (or other colors) and the occasional high pitched whine. It's so damn clean i'm really hoping to fix it. I'm new to Atari repair , so before I crack into it I was wondering what I should look for and if this is a fairly common problem? Appreciate any help.
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