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Found 116 results

  1. Hi everyone! I just had the good fortune to pick up my first Atari computer, a 1040stf. I fixed several problems like the mouse not working (really nasty rollers) and the stuck knobs on the monitor. However, the floppy drive seems to be totally dead. It never spins up, the head never moves, and I get no drive lights. I opened it up to confirm it is plugged in correctly. This is a "big eject button" ST as I've heard them called, with a Chinon drive. I have access to soldering equipment, a multimeter, occiloscope, etc, just not until a few days from now (I'm away from home ATM). What can I do to get this working? Are there easy replacements? (I don't really want to hack up the case for a PC drive or gotek). I've attached photos of what it does at the moment.
  2. Well there it is. I've used it to replace the broken one in my controller. STL's attached. No Warranty! coleco controller thing.zip
  3. Got an Astrocade without having any guarantees about it working and … wouldn't you know … no worky. It teases. It taunts. Sometimes on boot I get garbled but mostly visible screen, other times a screen like figure 3 here, which then does various strange things. I've attached image and video here. Is it a doorstop? Or is there hope? I haven't gone through the service docs yet or opened it up - it's totally new to me. It came with two extra controllers as well as a nice selection of games, the box, and several game manuals. Thanks for any tips / advice! Atrocade-NoWorky.mov
  4. What dumb little repair or tech thing have you done recently- that while simple and small- makes you feel accomplished and awesome? For me it was putting the guts of a well loved Gameboy Color into a new case with new pads and buttons to fix it- since many of the buttons didn't work well (or work in well.) and the case was not in great condition. Easy thing to do- but made me feel pretty good when it was all done and everything worked a hecka a lot better.
  5. Been going on a bit of a repair kick lately and got myself into a bit of trouble / mystery. Way back in the olden days, I got a catalog in the mail from some outfit named INTV Corporation. I ordered an INTV System III from them - so I could have my very own Intellivision to haul off to college! In the ensuing years, that system has gone through quite a lot, even tolerating my "repairs". One time when opening it (another story there, let's just say it needed fixing), I essentially destroyed the ribbon cable connecting the power board to the main board. I hacked together an absolutely horrible solution, and so it stayed for the past 15 years or so. I started using different systems as "daily drivers". I finally decided to remedy the hacky repair, because the system was unstable due to … shall we say … some extremely bad work on my part. At the time I did the "repair" I damaged the traces on the power board where the ribbon cable used to be, and age has not been kind to that board. (In my defense, I did the repair using materials at hand and a soldering gun -- yeah, that was fun!) OK, backstory done. Let's move to today: I removed the mess from the old "repair" and put in something more tidy and less prone to accidental grounding-of-things-that-should-not-be-grounded. However, the damage done so many years back must have caused more issues. The system seemed to work -- until I closed it all up. More investigation revealed further connectivity problems due to damaged traces. So, I reworked the connections again. More stress on an already compromised board... Now, I still have a really bad multimeter. If you're curious, it's this one. So while I can say the voltages on the connector pins are "ballpark", I can't say with any confidence that they are "in spec". Here's the weirdness: One controller does not work. (the right controller). But only with this power board. If I connect a different power board, both controllers work just fine. With this super duper hacky-fixed-up power board, only the left controller works. Using the 4.1 test cart, the chips all pass tests, etc. but I get zero response from the right controller... Swapping back to the brand new power board, everything works just fine. Ideas? I'd like to keep the original parts intact - hacked up damage and all - if possible. Plus it's useful to have a functioning, separate power board available for testing things like this.
  6. Does anyone know the size and thread type of the Atari 2600 Junior plastic case outer screws? I inherited a free Junior 2600 that works but has no screws holding it together.
  7. I have an ATR 8000 that does not power on. I was wondering if anyone has experience fixing or replacing the power supplies for these? Looks like an unusual PSU. Many thanks!
  8. Just wondering if these parts commonly go on a intv model 1. Mine works but the board is black. It's the two black parts. Just want to know in case I have to order parts in the future.
  9. So I had problems with my 2600 so I decided to try my hand at the AV Mod. I did all the work, it doesn't look great but I hoped it would work, but it didn't. Is anyone able to see what I did wrong and if I can fix it? https://imgur.com/a/xY43JRJ
  10. Hello all, long time reader, first time poster on the forums. I recently picked up a junk Coleco Telstar Combat system made in ‘77 for a couple dollars. It was pretty roached, but it’s a rather obscure system so I couldn’t pass it up. However, after getting it all cleaned up, I plugged it to my TV to test it out, but all I got was static and no signal. I tried many times turning the system off and on but mostly no signal would appear at all. Sometime a staticky signal would fade in and out, but it was very inconsistent. Once, I even got a vague image of the actually game screen to appear for a few seconds. I’m fairly confident that the video cable coming from the system itself is not the issue and I have it hooked up to a known working RF switch that works well with my Atari 2600. So, I opened the system back up, removed the RF shield, and began to adjust the RF inductors (I’m using a modern tv). ( I attached pics for reference) There appears to be 2 RF inductor adjustments under the shield, and a screw adjustment at the top right corner of the board. I started adjusting the orange (bottom) inductor but that only caused the video to go from no signal, to staticky image, back to no signal. So I tried to adjust the white (top) RF inductor, but it wouldn’t budge. Upon further inspection, I saw the slot inside this inductor had several cracks. I desoldered the inductor from the board to examine it further, but couldn’t get it to budge. After resoldering it back on, I still have the same issue, however, the static signal seems to become more and more scarce, leaving me with no signal as I fiddle more and more with the inductors. I also tried adjusting the screw adjuster to no avail, but I’m not really sure which RF adjusters I should/need to adjust. Would the cracking in the inductor be enough to inhibit the video signal completely? Is there anything else that could be causing this issue besides the inductors? I have a rather limited knowledge on electronics as I have only been attempting retro repairs for about a year and a half, so any new nuggets of knowledge are greatly appreciated! This is a really neat and rare system that I would like to have working in my collection. Feel free to ask questions if something isn’t clear. Thanks in advance! (Note: I have the same problem regardless if I’m using batteries or the power supply).
  11. Okay this isn't necessarily the right forum for this question but it's the closest I can think of where someone might actually know what I'm talking about and have an answer. So if you open up a typical Atari 2600 joystick, the wires that connect to the circuit board have (on the end of them) a tiny clamp which slides onto a trace on the board. Sometimes when I open up a joystick to repair it this is broken. I want to order some replacements. I can't seem to figure out what this part is called in order to search for it. Example: The closest I can find is a search for "wire crimps" from mouser.com but none of those look quite right.
  12. looking for a working board for an intellivision. Please contact if you have any you are willing to sell.
  13. I recently rescued a Vectrex from a crumbling abandoned building. After i had replaced the cord, i figured out it does not work. There is no sound but the normal humming. Does anyone know if i could repair this?
  14. Hi together! Someone gifted me a CX-75 LightPen, please see the picture attached. We have tested the pen at the NOMAM meeting, but it seems to be out of order. :-( Does anyone has ever repaired an Atari LightPen? Thank you so much in advance. All the best.
  15. I have a vader model, I've replaced the RIOT chip, the 4.7uf caps, the 2200uf cap, and the voltage regulator. Once I got it running again I noticed the video was fuzzy. I decided to do an A/V mod and picked up this kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-2600-7800-Composite-Video-Mod-Upgrade-Kit-DIY/303092047733?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Side note: as others have mentioned in other forums about the a/v mod the video was dark, after removing one of the resistors from the mod circuit that solved that issue. The picture, however, is still fuzzy. I've uploaded a video showing what I mean: https://youtu.be/UXzVRivc258 Not sure where to look next, any suggestions? I have tried multiple composite cables and televisions as well so I'm pretty sure it's an issue on the board itself.
  16. Hi everyone, I'm new here but I am a long time Atari collector and have always wanted to join this forum. anyways, I have an issue on my hands in the form of a beat up 4-port 5200 I just picked up. I got this thing for 5$, it came with the controllers and console, that's it. I don't have any more 5200s so I had to buy a switch box and a power supply. I just got all that in today and tested it, and I'm getting nothing, no sound, and no video. I already measured the supply and it looks good and the switch box seems to be outputting the correct voltage and has a reassuring spark. I heard something about different 5200s using different power supplies, I bought one that says 9.3 VDC (I hope that's ok.) I just don't know what to test next or where to go, the red led doesn't even light up when I turn it on. the switch is really gummy but I don't know which points to jump to bypass it. please help with my 5200, thanks!
  17. A long, LONG, time ago, on a computer, now dead, and another, and another, and 2 laptops, and finally on a USB drive, also now dead, I put together an instructional guide to taking apart a 410 drive, with emphasis on simplicity, and allowing for a couple improvements and repairs. It has been months since then, but the effort to put the guide out never died, and now today, I can release the guide in a photographic step-by-step format, in numerical order, with sudo-progressive sections, featuring a new solution to drive mechanism stuttering, a comparison of an old, used model, and a new-in-box, old-stock model drive, an electronics repair and problem-analysis section with documentation, and a more condensed, re-assembly guide. I would like to do a complete analysis of the head alignment procedure, and electronics replacement\upgrade\repair with my new oscilloscope, as described in the official documentation, which is included in this guide, and I had intended on making a version of this guide as a video, so I will combine them, but free-time is short right now, so it will have to wait. IT SHOULD BE NOTED THAT NEW BELTS WORK BETTER THAN OLD ONES, SO IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT, YOU SHOULD GET THEM HERE: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/260645-atari-cassette-belts-now-available-1010-410-xc12/ You will also note that the older model drive in this guide is using a few elastics in place of belts, this is not a permanent solution, and should only be used in a pinch, or in a testing situation where the belts would be subject to considerable use, for the sake of your precious belts! I hope it helps at least 1 person, then my effort is worth it. You will need 7-Zip, or another archiving program to extract the files. There are no programs or viruses in these archives, only pictures, text, and pdf. I take no responsibility for what you do, or fail to do, with this guide. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! And enjoy! http://www.4shared.com/archive/LlNW5P2uca/Final_Cut.html http://www.4shared.com/archive/UonUWLLsei/re-assembly.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/dzd8ks7j7o38boe/Final_Cut.7z http://www.mediafire.com/file/wpjqbzpa34qlj8x/re-assembly.7z
  18. Hello, So first a bit of a disclaimer - I am a bit of a noob when it comes to electronics repair et all - my soldering is crap, and I am definitely learning this stuff as I go along - so please pardon what I am certain is going to be apparent ignorance. I have a 2600 jr rev E which is displaying poor colors (screen appears mostly greyscalish/monochromatic with some yellow/green tinting on the sprites. I tried adjusting the color pot, which you can tell is affecting the underlying colors but onscreen the result is just changing the grey levels so the screen still remains mostly monochromatic. Adjusted the RF pot to no effect either. Low hanging fruit (IE assumption on my part) seemed like it might be a bad cap, so I purchased a recap kit from console5 for the JR. Replaced the caps (polarity on the caps is correct) Turned the machine back on, colors were perfect for 1 second, and then it reverted to the same symptoms, only this time with audio distortion as well. Ordering ESR meter from amazon to check caps, but while I wait the two days for prime to deliver, I would love to get the communities input. 1) What should I be checking to troubleshoot this? 2) I have another 2600 jr that works (I haven't opened it yet so not sure what rev the board is) - so I could desolder and swap TIA if that's appropriate (my inclination is to socket the chips as well, my board has all three chips soldered to board - so if there is room, I think I will socket them) 3) This is probably a really dumb question - but I am curious all the same, the Jr cap kits comes with new caps for C20, C26, C27, C29, C37 c26 is obviosuly the big cap @ 2200uF 16v the other four c20, c27, c29, c37 are listed @ 4.7uF 35v in the console5 wiki (https://console5.com/wiki/Atari_2600) That said the kit from console5 only comes with 3 replacement caps instead of four. My particular revision lacks c29 so 3 caps were fine, but are there revisions which have all four caps on them? Or does each board revision have only a combination of three of those four caps? . Thanks Xamfear
  19. Hello guys n' gals.... I have a DMG Gameboy with a screwed up LCD. The right part is darker than the left and it has a horizontal line.... (I think I bent the H/V ribbon cables too much...) Could it be replaced??? The LCD is custom, but I have been able to find simmiliar screen sizes and resolutions on the 'Bay... I'd try to get a Gameboy Pocket LCD if I could find them. Probably a Color/Advance LCD wont fit? Any options? Thanks....... Al.
  20. OK, so I have my pico psu. Couple of questions for those that have done this replacement. 1. How did you "stick it down" to the plastic shield on the ps base? Did you glue the shield to the base? 2. Mine has the ATX 24pin header, but I also see the pico has another header to output for peripherals, HD power, floppy power, etc.. Why not just run power on(green) to ground - and then run the ST off the peripheral header? it is smaller, lighter, cleaner? I notice all installs use the atx header and solder a bundle of wires (+5 v and Grounds) to the small 6pin MB header of the ST?? 3. I was going to cut into the Power line coming into the pico and wire the power_on to ground.. this way I am turning the entire pico on and off rather than it be powered on and then just soft start the ST. Did anyone else do it this way? James
  21. I have an old US Colecovision power supply that game with my system, but I've been interested in replacing it for a while - it's been buzzing, and given the periodic graphical screwups I've been concerned that the issue is that power supply dying. I finally bit the bullet and bought a Canadian supply on ebay that was listed as tested and working, etc. Well when I got it and plugged it in, nothing happened. The game screen didn't pop up (though the static patterns on my tv changed slightly). I complained to the seller, who sent me another one he had available... same issue. Now one bad supply could happen, sure, but getting two seems a bit weird. Anyone have any idea what could be wrong, and how I could test that and fix it? The US supply still boots up the system, so I'm inclined to think it's related to the Canadian supplies themselves... unless there's an issue on the power jack's pins or something.
  22. Hi all, I am hoping someone on here with some experience repair an asteroids PCB can help me troubleshoot a minor issue I am having. My left rotate is sticking intermittently. I have replaced the buttons so I know it is a problem on the logic board but I don't know where to look. Every once in a way the ship gets stuck rotating left and then i can rotate right and it will eventually fix itself during game play. It only crops up once in a while. Any ideas?
  23. Picked up an Atari 1040 STe with a SC1224 Color monitor used (craigslist) for a good price. It has been working all fine and dandy except a couple odd issues. The volume knob is Glitchy in that it only sometimes works and the sound will cut out and after about 20 minutes of usage.. The thing just REEKS!!! as in the entire apartment smells like "stale burnt popcorn" as someone in the chat room so eloquently suggested. This really makes me sad the monitor is a cute little thing and I wanted to enjoy it for long periods of time without worry. The smell is so strong that even after opening a window with a fan on the highest setting blowing on it, it is still lingering there. I'm getting worried the damn thing might even explode so it can't be too safe to use plus the smell is causing me migraine headaches.
  24. Hi, I recently purchased a very nice looking Lynx II from eBay which was listed as faulty. Upon opening it I found that the ribbon cable which connects to the LCD screen was damaged and had split half way along its length. This didn't worry me so much because I had purchased it with the view to installing one of McWill's modern LCD displays, however upon further investigation it seems like there is some other problem. The unit was not powering on with either AC or DC power when a game was inserted. Seeing as this is a common problem I purchased a kit of replacement parts and proceeded to do the following: - Replaced all the electrolytic capacitors, - Added a new MOSFET transistor on Q12, - Replaced the transistors on Q4 and Q13, - Replaced the Zener diode - Replaced R74 with a 30 ohm resistor - Replaced the original power jack Unfortunately even after all these steps the unit will not power up on either batteries or AC power. Is a working LCD display needed for the unit to power up? Is there any more repairs I can attempt before giving up? I have checked it with a miltimeter and power is entering the circuitry but it just doesn't seem to be enough to get it running. Any suggestions as to next steps for trouble shooting? It's a very nice looking PCB with no corrosion so I was kind of surprised I could not get it running. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers
  25. So several years ago my girlfriend (at the time, now wife, lol) knocked my Wii U gamepad off our coffee table where it flipped onto the floor landing firmly on the left joystick. From then on, instead of clicking in as it should (used in a number of games) it is squishy and doesn't do anything. Luckily the directional aspect still works. Several years ago I contacted Nintendo and they said it would be $80 to fix the damn thing, no matter what. Whether it was run over by a bulldozer or if it just had one small $5 dollar part needed (like I assume mine does.) Has anyone attempted to ever repair their gamepads for any issue. Any possibility of finding parts for this? Only a couple games really have a critical need for that left joystick click, but the more I think about it the more I realize I hang onto Nintendo consoles for decades so i'd really like it working for the years ahead and maybe should just suck it up and pay the "nintendo" tax before I can't get it repaired at all anymore... Thoughts?
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