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Showing results for tags 'repairs'.
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Hi! I was happily trying to clean up the keys of my M4 (de-soldering, opening up, cleaning the insides) when at first test after the rebuild nothing appeared to work, although the screen was definitely getting power. Then, after some more testing, A Rifa violently blew up. I had seen some videos where they were always replaced as a matter of course, but as long as my box was working, I hadn't bothered. Researching I found out that my Model 4, sold by a small company RAM Computers from the city of Arnhem (in the Netherlands) has probably been doing some custom work. The main power supply does not match photos I found of the Model 4 one, and the Floppy drives should be powered from the same unit? Anyways, the drives built into this system are TEAC 80-track drives with the kind of plugs I know from pre-SATA PCs, so perhaps that was a reason to build something themselves? Anyways, I know there are Rifa replacements that will last longer than the paper ones? Also, as I have it on my desk, any suggestions for other things I should take care of? Also, does anyone have an idea why the huge spool is between the main power supply and the floppy drive power supply? I'm not afraid of a soldering iron, just more at home with software. In the eighties I wrote an extension to M3 basic that allows you to "do" 3D graphics. It was a lot of fun... Cheers, Bert Laverman
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- trs-80 model 4
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Is there a site, group of PDFs, or other compilation of known TI 99/4A hardware problems and their solutions? Are the problems encountered typically easy or hard to fix? I have no problem replacing components or repairing board traces, but I'm at a loss if the problem requires an oscilloscope to diagnose.
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I shared this in my regular retro-gaming discord and someone suggested I post it here... I recently picked up a 2600 Junior for a tenner from ConsoleMad; price reduced because the cartridge interlock tabs were broken. As I researched various fixes for this I noticed all the fixes involved butchering the case in some way. I know a lot of people aren't bothered by that kind of thing but I like to preserve all the hardware I own in as close to original condition as possible - so I came up with this solution. It's just a small 3D printed plate that sits on top of the cartridge slot and releases the mechanism as the original, fragile, tabs would have done. I've stuck it down with double-sided tape so it's completely reversible. I've tested it with Combat, Warlords, Pac-Man, and Breakout and they all work perfectly.
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Hello Retro Folks, My buddy gave me his old 2600 4-switch Vader edition. Was hoping to try and do a composite mod on it but it turns out it doesn't work to begin with. So my first quest was to try and get it to work normally before trying to mod it. Not knowing exactly what might be wrong I bought one of those 'refresh' capacitor kits and replaced a number of component on it. Check the first attached image to see what I replaced. As I understand it the kit includes most of the 'suspect' capacitors as well as the voltage regulator and the connector for the AC adapter plug. I replaced all of them and the 2nd and 3rd screenshots show you what I'm seeing. Doesn't seem a whole lot different compared to before I put the kit in. For the record I have a working 2600 and I used the same cart(s), AC Adapter and RF connector and game switch on both, so I think we can safely rule those parts out. Really not sure what to try next -- hoping folks might have some ideas. Should I try to reseat the 3 socketed chips? That's about where I'm at. Close to junking it at this point, but not quite ready to give up on her. Thanks all in advance! Neil
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Hello, I am in a bind. I used to do a lot of mods and console repairs on older systems, but this was over 10 years ago. I picked up the hobby again and had some successful repairs and mods. As I am learning again, I still have have a lot to learn and several projects I completely messed up. My friend asked if I would take a look at his 7800 as it was no longer working. He provided me with a ton of controllers, games and the console itself. He had tried to repair the RF unit and eventually took it out but left it there. I successfully got it up and working with an AV mod with some sound issues still and not getting pokey sound to work. I worked with all games and no real issues. One day I pulled out the system to test out a multi-cart to work on that issue and try some other games before getting the system back to my friend and no power. I tested and found the power button needed to be replaced so I did that. I also repaired the power jack and got an adapter that is lighter and worked with the system before it did not power on anymore. It still did not power on so I replaced the voltage regulator and it still did not power on. I finally found a video that bridged pins 1 & 2 for an IC chip on the top right corner of the board, and it stayed powered on when plugged in, so I tried that and it worked. A few days later I tried to turn it back on and the light came on, but now there was no sound and no video and then the power light slowly dimmed before dying after making a quiet high pitched tone until it dropped out and the light went completely dim. I unbridged the pins and for some reason now it would power on with the power button and the red light dimmed and powered off again. I then noticed the voltage regulator usually has a grounding plate (I assume) that was missing so I'm not sure what to do about that or the dimming light (is the VR getting too hot?). I replaced some of the caps and tested the rest not finding any issues with those. I tried to remove the IC chip (TC4013BP) and replace it but the ebay chip did not work even thought it did power on but no sound and video. I put the original chip back. I accidently bent the Voltage regulator and tried to remove it but was unsuccessful after getting too tired tonight. Basically I am at a loss and tired after a month or more of tinkering, digging in forums, relearning some techniques and learning more and more without success. I would just say it's a loss and maybe just not in the cards but here is the thing....I am emotionally destroyed. My plan was to get this system up and running and return it to my friend and his family, the thing is his dad has cancer and he grew up playing with his dad and his brother. I wanted so bad to get this up and running and it was working! BUT something happened and it stopped turning on and now all of this. I am asking the community not to help me figure out what to do but who would be willing to look at the system and fix my bad work and see what they could do. I am begging to get some help. I know I could buy a "new" old system but it's not the families original board or system. Please help and I am glad to pay for any service costs. I just want to get this back to him so they can enjoy and have some good memories playing on their old system again. Feel free to offer up some thoughts on what could be some issues but I would really like to see if there is anyone out there. Thank you for reading.
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- repairs
- troubleshooting
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So im going to buy locally a faulty JVC X'eye as an future project, and i wanted to know if the problem this console has could be very easy to fix, or not worth trying. So the seller says that the system was working correctly both the Cd and cartridge system, but he recently drop the console by accident and now the consoles doesn't turn on, i tried to get some info on the internet but it seems that no one has had a similar problem, so i wanted to know if its worth my time to fix it, or just as a cool piece for display.
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I have a "Mostly Working" coloecvision. If you supply power to it, it turns on. If you put in a cartridge, it reads it. The only problem is due to bad instruciotns from Adam's House, I permenantly ruined my Joyport 1 on the Colecovision, so I can't plug in any joystick. they told me to pull the port, so I pulled it apart, and it got ruined. I'm not getting much help from the repair shop, who told me to to find a non-working colecovision, and transplant the joyport. he says he can solder it for $25 -the $10 analysis fee. I asked if there is a generic equivalent part for the right angle Colecovision DB9 port? The repairman said there was none. I asked A couple companies whihc may have the piece, and they said they didn't know enough about the particular repair or the Colecoviison itself to answer the question. I'm trying to get the repairman on board. All he has to do is solder on a new 9-pin connector. But he insists on a genuine CV connector, becuase there is no part number on it, so he can't look up equivalents. I found this searching for a solder-on DB9 right angle connector: https://www.cablewholesale.com/specs/3530-14009.php?utm_source=GoogleShopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=3530-14009&utm_campaign=DB9%20Right%20Angle%20Female%20Connector%2C%20Solder%20Type&gclid=CjwKCAjw5ZPcBRBkEiwA-avvk6cT-8xUjIPMCP6SxL0hcXOUZuYkZJAbaXnnP17vGGB21YoWSrEwsRoCx1kQAvD_BwE $4 shipping plus <$1 for the cost of 1, plus I know it's not ruined. A lot less in cost and a lot more sure to work than a stereotypical non-working Colecovision. The only thing I don't know is whether it's compatible with a Colecovision.
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- colecovision
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Hello. 1 time of taking the super extra controller parts I kind of fixed it but I couldn't get it back together right without it being ergonomically weird. I know that Best Electronics California sells the gold set for the 5200 joystick buttons and keypads. I was wondering if there was a similar mod thatcould be done to Super Action Controllers?; I predict every couple years I have to re mail it, and I read that deep cleaning requires taking apart almost to the skeleton (the circuit board level), and read it has something to do with sandpapering off some foreign substance. Instead of mailing it every few years I wonder if there's a final solution for super extra controllers but he's just being unresponsive? Also one of the directions have fell off one of the four super extra controllers, because I could do 7 directions all except Northwest. I've opened one before and seen it has an 8 separate actuator pins, one for each Cardinal and diagonal. Does that mean that there are games that specifically support super action controls with tertiary directions, as in 16 way, where North plus Northeast equals NorthNorthEast? If that's not true or if it was meant to support 16 ways but no game actually took advantage of it, then that opens a couple of doors. what if the top joystick could be replaced by a more current arcade self stick either American or Japanese and be ambidextrous on the joystick housing. If all you need is 8 way and way to turn 8 way via 4 actuators to 8 separate actuators, and if the buttons can be replaced with "finger grip" buttons, then these suckers could go a lot longer without repair. Also eight separate actuators might give away to make a 16 way Intellivision joystick and turn eight ways plus the in-betweens into 16 ways of Intellivision, then the suprep should controller might be a combo stick Intellivision / ColecoVision / retro ambidextrous Fight Stick. I'm just spitballing night some ideas. Maybe someone can make something out of it.
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- super action controller
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I just bought some paddle controllers, but they arent working properly. Neither of the paddles work, and only 1 button works. I've tried cleaning the contacts on the Atari and that didnt work. I tried blowing out the contact holes in the controller as well. I opened up the controller to look for loose wires but everything was in shape. Does anybody know what may be going on?
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I have an original Centipede arcade machine that's been in my possession for close to two years now. My wife got a good deal on it since it lacks a monitor. Thing is, at this point no work has been done on it (I have no experience with this kind of thing), and honestly, I don't even know where to start. Google has been very little help. Does anyone know of any places in Northeast Florida that does repairs on arcade machines? I'd like to have someone that knows what they're doing work on it, but if I can't find someone, I may just end up selling it, as it's taking up space we could use.
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There are many disassembly/repair kits out there now, but so many use cheap components. What do you use and recommend? Which do you suggest we avoid?
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I have a weird Atari paddle problem. On a known good 4 switch, one paddle moves when the button is pushed. Of course the paddle dial is not moving, just the signal sent from the pot is changing. Note that it moves less depending on the position of the paddle dial, but never goes away. Inside it looks ok. The cord doesn't have obvious damage, but I'm thinking that is probably the issue. The other paddle of the pair works great. Any thoughts?
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Wow long time since I last posted something!! Well I have an IntelliVision 1 and have some cartridge problems. It seems as my IntelliVision likes more carts that others. I bought the systems from a video game store in Madison WI and got 3 games and all of them work and still do however I bought a couple of games from a local game store and some would get to the IntelliVision screen and button press would freeze the system or load garbage even after cleaning them. The thing that I think is strange is I bought 2 copies of Night stalker. The first would go to the IntelliVision splash screen and button hit would freeze it. The 2nd one would work with no problem. However when I bought Advanced D&D the game would freeze and show garbage. I just recently got Space Spartas the game gets to the splash screen and it will go to the space map for a millisecond and than freezes. Im having a hard time thinking if its the games or my system? Are the cartridge not that dependable for the IntelliVision? I found it odd that I bought 10 games for the IntelliVision and 2 dont work and after rebuying Night stalker to get it working. I was thinking of reseating the rom chipsets on the board but I dont really know If thats the problem or not. Any advice or input would be a great help and thanks in advance!
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I picked up a broken Atari XEGS on Ebay as a learning project for working on my soldering and desoldering skills. It has a completely black screen with no sign of video or audio activity. The RAM chips were heating up so I replaced those. The RAM chips stopped overheating but other than that there is no change. I still get a completely black screen. The power supply checked out. It seems to be completely fine. It's outputting 5V just like it should. There isn't anything unusual on the motherboard besides my poor job on the RAM chips. What would likely be the culprit here? Is there anything else I can check for or do I just need to start replacing chips?
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hi peeps, does anybody repair atari 1050 drives in the uk? thanks in advance
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Not sure if this is the right place to ask... I've got a wonky light sixer and don't really know enough about these things to tell what's wrong with it, if it can be fixed, or whether it needs to be junked. Is there a forum topic for that? Or are there people in the community who can take a look (for a price, of course)? I am in Brooklyn, so if anyone with skills/interest is in NYC maybe we could meet up? If there is a topic for this I apologize for misposting; feel free to move the post to a better location. thanks! david
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Hi! Sorry if this is the wrong place, didn't find anywhere to post this. I have an Atari 2600 Jr that powers up the red light, but the screen is black ... I've seen more of these on eBay, just wondering if anyone knows how to fix it? Is there a special chip, transistor, resistor or whatever they're called that usually blows? If anyone has fixed this problem, where do you get the spare parts? Hate to throw a system if there's a chance of repair. Sorry again and hope someone will try to help Thank you