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Showing results for tags 'replacement'.
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Current status (20-Feb-2021): I'm sending out PMs to those who have expressed interest. I'm doing this in the order that people responded. Initial Post (mostly) (10-Feb-2018): As many of you are aware, the Microvision by Milton Bradley is notorious for something people have called "screen rot", where the LCD screen becomes dark and unusable. Unfortunately, this effect is all too common. A fix for these would hopefully bring back to life these interesting and (I think) fun handheld systems. It took a few months or so, but I was finally able to get a couple of quotes for replacement LCD screens for the Microvision. These are intended to be drop-in replacements for existing screens. There's a number of costs related to this project. Some are known, such as engineering cost and production cost, and some are unknown, such as customs and duty, and shipping parts to me. Therefore, I've come up with some maximum prices in US dollars (shipping not included): Quantity 1: $22.00 Quantity 2+: $20.50 each Quantity 4+: $19.00 each Quantity 8+: $17.50 each [initial orders will probably be in the $17-$19 range each, regardless of quantity ordered (1+). This is because I'll be able to work on a bunch of orders one after the other, which will save time. Price later might be a few dollars more to account for time spent packaging single orders. Note that the exact price is to be determined, based on actual costs that I incur for the project]. I should mention that once you've bought and received your replacement screens, they're yours to do whatever you want with them... resell them at any price you see fit, put them in systems and sell those at any price you see fit, keep them on your shelf to look at, etc. FAQ: 1. Will the new screens be susceptible to screen rot? They shouldn't be. These will be brand new displays, built to high standards. We're used to the Microvision display being very poor, but most or nearly all other small LCD displays work well for many, many years. 2. What is the operating and storage temperature of the display. Operating Range: 0C to +50C. Storage Range: -10C to +60C. 3. Are the Zebra connectors (that connect the LCD screen to the board) reusable? Yes. They tend to stick a bit when they've been connected for a long time, but they seem to be robust in their ability to connect well with repeated use. 4. Are there installation instructions? Is it easy to install? Here are some pictures of disassembly of a Microvision (re-assembly is basically the reverse, although the front and back polarizer and reflector is not required). The green pad is still used, and the contact strips are still used. It's fairly easy, although sometimes the wires and other parts like to move around a bit, so plan on 20 minutes for a full upgrade.- 810 replies
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New Vectrex Controller Replacement Printed Circuit Board (PCB). Designed as a direct replacement board for an exact fit in the Vectrex controller. For maintenance and/or or repair of your GCE / MB / Bandai バンダイ Vectrex 光速船 Kousokusen Controller. Price is $10.00 (USD) each, Plus Shipping. Available from Jason Kopp (aka Arcade Jason). Send him a message for total costs. Reach out to Jason via his email address: KoppJason83@yahoo.com https://www.youtube.com/c/ArcadeJason/about Vectrex Controller Replacement Printed Circuit Board (PCB).
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Does anyone know if there have been 3d printed replacement cases for the 7800. As brittle as they are I would think some one would be trying to make a more durable case.
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Earlier this year I finally broke out my Tron joystick only to find it didn’t work. Opened it up and sure enough the flexible ring had cracked and broken. After searching for a replacement I came to the conclusion that there weren’t any so I worked with a friend to try to make a 3D printed replacement. He came up with a pretty great design which is actually more durable than the original while retaining good flexibility. I figured I would share it with the community for anyone else looking to restore one of these Tron joysticks to full function. Enjoy! Tron Joystick insert
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Hello, I've had a look around on the internet but can't seem to find anywhere that stocks replacement Jaguar controller rubbers, specifically the D-pad. Are they available or is there a substitute? I received a second controller and after cleaning, and fixing the lead, the pad requires a solid press in one direction to move. Pad rubber is at fault, verified by turning rubber 90 degrees and testing then turning again and testing. Also after supplier of known good AU, or international, aftermarket Jaguar plugpack as most online advertised plugpacks never make rated amperage. I'm currently using the original UK plugpack with an adapter and will buy a rated Meanwell adapter and change the plug as needed but would like to find out what everyone is using. Repaired lead. Hot glue gun to fill in the missing sheath. Lead then depinned and sleeved with 10mm heatshrink. -
I've been meaning to start a topic about my abbuc hardware competition entry, a replacement for the Pokey chip. It's been mentioned in a couple of threads but I thought many people may have overlooked it. I tried to be sensitive to cost in my design, though once the full details are released (after competition result) it will be fun here to brainstorm ideas to make it even cheaper! Clearly there are still plenty of real pokey chips, however the supply is starting to become more limited and prices are on the increase. --- PokeyMAX Introduction The PokeyMAX is a complete replacement for the Pokey chip. It is derived from the work on the EclaireXL project, a complete FPGA based Atari 800XL clone. The intention is to build replacements for all of the Atari custom chips using this technology and Pokey has been built first. It can be used either to replace a broken/missing pokey, as a stereo upgrade, or just for fun! Features If pokey is socketed, zero wire installation (mono) Dual pokey mode Pins for 3 audio outputs (left channel/right channel/mixed) Small footprint, only a few mm larger than original IC Supports all features: 8x paddle inputs, IRQ, serial I/O, audio output, two tone mode, high pass filter and keyboard scan High level of compatibility Digital logic The PokeyMAX is built around the Altera MAX10 FPGA. This was chosen due to its integrated flash memory, power conversion, small size and low cost. The contained logic itself is described in VHDL and Verilog and then synthesized using the Quartus II software. Level conversion Most modern FPGAs no longer support 5V logic. While it is possible to find a few they are a vanishing breed. The MAX10 only supports up to 3.3V logic, so an IDT quickswitch level converter IC is used to connect to the high speed lines (A/D/IRQ/serial io etc) safely. Chip select Unfortunately I needed more level conversion lines than provided. TI came to the rescue with some 5V tolerant multi-function logic chips with which I was able to combined CS/!CS into one. Power The MAX10 requires a single 3.3V power supply, it then internally generates the rest of its supplies. This is very convenient, since often FPGAs require 3 or more different voltage levels. There is a switch mode regulator (LM3670) to convert from 5V to 3.3v in an efficient fashion. Paddles These are handled by charging a capacitor that we then check the level of using an LMV339. This is similar to the well-known LM339 comparator, except much smaller! The comparator is used since the level can be set very precisely rather than relying on when the FPGA detects a logic high. The level itself is set to 2.2v using the voltage divider on the right. It is also convenient since its open drain output means there are no level conversion issues. For the drain transistors, a 5V tolerant IO extender chip is used. The FPGA communicates with this over an I2C bus. Keyboard scan An IO extender chip drives the 6 keyboard lines and then reads the response. This is convenient since it only requires an I2C bus to the FPGA and the IC is much smaller than the level converters. JTAG The core may be upgraded or debugged using an Altera USB blaster connected here. Several of the JTAG pins are dual use and can be used as general IO. So we could for instance in future plug in i2c devices here or use for A5 (with external level converter) to allow quad pokey or sid etc. Audio filter The audio output uses a delta sigma dac. An RC circuit is used as a simple audio filter to smooth the output from this. There are four audio outputs, which are currently fed to pin 37 and 3 header pins (left/right and mixed). Note that the next stage much not draw a lot of current from the rc filter or it will cause distortion. A4 Pokey has 4 address pins (A0-A3). To make space for a 2nd pokey another address line is needed. For stereo connect to A4. Errata: Note that the "paddle capacitors" should not be populated and RA1 should be 0 ohm since these are already on the main board, this was a schematic error.
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What is your thoughts on FPGA arcade board replacements? For those who don't know a FPGA is a special chip that can be programed to actually become other chips so it can emulate hardware in hardware which can come close to a perfect re-implementation or replacement if done right. Unlike MAME you can make the chip run at the same speed and act and load the ROM in the same way and have the same exact bugs and you can update the outputs to more modern outputs like Displayport, HDMI or just regular VGA. There are current projects that have re-implemented some games and there are even replacement boards on the market. I know there is a Williams multi FPGA board and a Berzerk FPGA. There also is the MiST FPGA project that is implementing arcade chipsets with some that are Works In Progress. What are your thoughts on this? Is this okay to preserve faulty boards like Berzerk that may not survive much longer. Which boards or games do you think are in need of an FPGA implementation? What are your thoughts on this in general? -
Hi everybody. I've got an Atari 400 with a keyboard that doesn't register 2,W,S,X, and Shift. I already swapped the 4051 and POKEY chip with known working ones so that isn't the issue. I did plug in a fully working keyboard from another unit and it worked fine in it. I was looking through old threads and found recommendations for myatari.com. It looks like the site is down for maintenance though. I'm not sure how long that has been offline. Does anybody here know if these are available anywhere else? Thanks guys. You've been a great help to me.
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I'm trying to restore an arcade cabinet from 1983. The CRT monitor is shot and honestly, I'd rather have an LED/LCD screen in it's place. (Don't get me wrong, CRT, when working, looks great) I don't know much about how to connect the monitor and most of what I see out there has DVI and/or VGA ports which are clearly not going to connect on an old system arcade cabinet like this. Will this work? https://na.suzohapp.com/products/accessories/49-3223-01 Does this need an adapter to connect it to the arcade machine? Thanks! -
I recently finished a project where I had to gut these from new aftermarket controllers.These function with the Nintendo entertainment system. These would serve as direct replacement in an old worn out NES controller and work great. I have about 19 of them. PM me if you want all or one of them.
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Who have found a replacement knob for the Vectrex Controller? One that fits the shaft as a screw on replacement. One that will still allow the controller to be stored. One that matches well. Chrome. Black. Light Gray. In metal or plastic. Preferably, one that does not destroy or degrade another old controller. But hey, Vectrex before Atari! or Tandy. One that is reasonably priced. Reasonably being somewhat mutable based on what it is. newly machined knob with chrome / polishing will be more expensive than a 3D printed knob.
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I have in my possession a problematic SECAM board of which i have modified with 5volt ram, and it still does not work. i want to replace the bios chip with a new one on eprom. looking at the guide here: http://console5.com/wiki/Colecovision_BIOS_Replacement it does not help me at all. the guide appears to not cater for the board types i have even my PAL board does not have the same layout as described in the guide both of the boards have similar layouts to the pictures i have attached, does anyone have any info i could use to replace these bios chips with new ones? is there a guide that someone knows of that will describe the procedure for this board layout? maybe someone has the pin layout of the bios chip used, i could then cobble something together myself that will work by matching the pins from the eprom etc
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OK, so I have my pico psu. Couple of questions for those that have done this replacement. 1. How did you "stick it down" to the plastic shield on the ps base? Did you glue the shield to the base? 2. Mine has the ATX 24pin header, but I also see the pico has another header to output for peripherals, HD power, floppy power, etc.. Why not just run power on(green) to ground - and then run the ST off the peripheral header? it is smaller, lighter, cleaner? I notice all installs use the atx header and solder a bundle of wires (+5 v and Grounds) to the small 6pin MB header of the ST?? 3. I was going to cut into the Power line coming into the pico and wire the power_on to ground.. this way I am turning the entire pico on and off rather than it be powered on and then just soft start the ST. Did anyone else do it this way? James
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Hello Everyone, I recently got an Atari 800 computer and it is missing the down arrow key. I have googled around a bit and have had no luck finding anyone that sells them, so a buddy of mine recommended asking if anyone here knew where I could get one. Any ideas? Thanks in advance! Robert Santellan AKA Your Geeky Tipster
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How best to replace a broken/iffy key?
Rick Dangerous posted a topic in Atari ST/TT/Falcon Computers
So when I opened up my STe box awhile back the 0 (Zero) key from the right side number pad was kicking around in the box. I glued it back on but now it is getting loose again. I don't really use the number pad that much but I want a fully functional keyboard, or at the least, no missing keys (looks fugly)! I noticed there are replacement keys on eBay and will likely order one soon. So my question is: What is the procedure for replacing keys on the ST? Do they just pop off, or will I have to take the case apart? Thanks! -
Looking for both of the Model 2 laser assemblies. The lasers don't need to work - I just need the assemblies with drives that spin up. I need both the JVC Optima-6 assembly, and the Sony KSS-210A drive assembly. If anyone has a Sega CD that won't read disks, but the motor DOES spin. Please PM me.
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I know there are devices out there to warn you when the C64 decides to flake out, but is there a replacement for the C64 power brick that can avoid the issue all together?
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Hi all, I'm looking for an Atari H6 top shell in good condition, especially in the frontal faux woodgrain part with the logo. I have to replace mine which got ever more ruined in a rather clumsy attempt of restoration pm contact. Thanks. Andre
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Does anyone make replacement Atari cartridges? Last night I was cleaning some of my games and a copy of Laser Blast I have has some plastic busted out of it so that the chip stays in place but it wiggles around quite a bit. I hate to throw it out because the actual chip is fine.
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I need the foam rings that go on the switches on the atari 4 switch model. And one atari screw. I saw the foam on ebay for 10 but as a 15 year old I don't have much money, so if anyone has it for cheap then tell me.
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I opened my atari today.... and noticed that the foam piece on the switches are all dryed out and were practically falling off, when I picked one up it started to rip. Can anyone give any info of a alternative that I can use or a link of where I can purchase these pieces of foam that would be great! Theres one on ebay but its $10 and I can't spend $10 on a thin peice of foam, by the way I'm not cheap just a poor 15 year old
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