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Found 23 results

  1. I'm gauging interest for two new AV adapters I'm making due out sometime in November. I'd like to have a good idea for how many to make before launching, so I'm posting here. Each product page has a simple email signup form. if you're interested, please signup! The first is a simple S-Video, Stereo Audio, Composite video adapter. This adapter will only need the AV socket and will run $25 (plus shipping). https://www.humblebazooka.com/product/jagsvc-atari-jaguar-s-video-composite-video-adapter/ The second is an All-In-One Analog adapter with RGB (9-pin socket, Genesis Model 2 style), Stereo Audio, Composite, and S-Video. This adapter will require both Jag sockets, DSP for power, but will benefit from being able to work with the Rad2X without external power. No definitive price yet but tentative at $35 (plus shipping). Those looking to use a JagNet, JagLink, JagLink II can always pick up a Jag2GEN or the S-Video adapter, since both only use the AV socket. This adapter will have its sync line brought down to Genesis Model 2 levels so that Genesis Model 2 SCART cables wired for CSYNC will work as intended. https://www.humblebazooka.com/product/jagaioa-atari-jaguar-all-in-one-analog/
  2. I'm looking for someone in the US who can install the RGB Tim worthington mod with component output in my light 4 switch Atari 2600 system.
  3. Hi, I've been on the forums for awhile(mostly reading) -the posts are very informative and friendly. After doing my own av mods and considering selling the units or doing installs for others, I wanted to get a feel for what people consider my quality of work. Also to make the installs as clean as possible - I think RCA jacks sticking out the back look terrible and even worse - the sides. One is a 2600jr with the ElectronicSentimentalities s video mod( av cable connects to a trs jack in the old RF port - I wanted to use a trs jack and then saw the game-tech install video using the RF port) and 2600 vader with 2600RGB mod(with composite -trs jack, component - trs jack, s video and RGB via framemeister cable). I don't like hot glue and it's almost never needed - I used epoxy for the ports. And once the case is closed - nothing should be moving if the wiring was routed right. Yes, I did use cat5 wire for the installs, but solid core is better for something thats not moving and its what I got with the kit from ES. I know the ports on the vader are a little tilted, but was also my first time using epoxy. Here are some pics, feel from to ask questions or give CONSTRUCTIVE criticism. - Thanks
  4. I wanted to create a cable to connect my Amigas to my Atari SC1224 color monitor. I found a few forum posts on the issue: http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=80003 http://www.atari-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=30991 http://atariage.com/forums/topic/189852-how-to-find-a-good-amiga-500/ But nothing with the actual schematic. It should be straightforward, but the poster in the English Amiga Board post stated he was having problems, and someone suggested taping the CSYNC line instead. Anyway, I made a cable with a simple RGBHV and GND connection from the Amiga to the SC1224 and it works beautifully. I added audio too by tying left and right audio together and feeding them to pin 1 of the Atari monitor. Here is the schematic: And here are some results: I figured I would add this here for anyone else wondering if there is some weird magic to connecting an SC1224 to an Amiga. There isn't. The only surprise was that the original Amiga RGB video cable I tried to use as a donor does not carry HSYNC and VSYNC at all. I has to sacrifice an Amigakit RGB to SCART cable in the end too. So far at least though it works great and looks beautiful. Graham
  5. I have a couple assembled NES Super 8 systems ready to use including the rare RGB PPU chip. The NES Super 8 is a Nintendo clone that uses the origingal CPU / PPU. One is blue, the other is white. They have the version 1.1 PCB inside. Tested and working great. Asking $399 which includes the power adapter and shipping. I also have RGB NS8 v1.1 assembled PCBs for $95 CPU / PPU not included bare PCBs are $25 For more information: http://atariage.com/...ct/page__st__75 PM me if interested! Thanks!
  6. This is my modified sharp twin famicom. I added the following: True RGB with no jailbars or video interference. Using a rgb ppu chip from an arcade unit. True S-video with no jailbars or video interference. A N64 multi av port. Removed the low pass filter to remove audio muffle on the default audio circuit. A switch on the back to switch between the default audio circuit and the f-labo kit audio circuit. The expansion connector has been replaced with a standard connector so it's easy for me to wire up custom expansion hardware. Original expansion hardware still works fine with the new port. I soldered in nes controller ports so I can use any standard nes controller on this system. Demonstration video:
  7. gulps

    ntmini To scart2

    Analogue Nt Mini cable for SCART-Euroconector use.
  8. I'm running into an odd problem that I hope someone else has seen before - I have a Sony HB-F1XDmk2 MSX2 that I'm trying to connect via RGB cable to an Extron DSC301 HD (via the 15pin D-sub input). I've done a bit of searching and believe I have the pinouts correct on both the MSX* and Extron ends. I've tested and re-tested continuity through the lines. All that said, I just can't seem to get a full picture going - I'm getting two of the three RGB colors and only the text mode (I think); the MSX boot logo screen doesn't appear, game screens don't appear. The picture is nice and crisp, there's no rolling/scrolling that I've seen mentioned from other forum posts. Also, the unit's A/V outputs work normally. The odd thing on the 2 out of 3 colors - I can swap the color lines and I'll get the blend of whatever 2 colors I hook up on the first two lines for the text, so it seems the R,G, and B are outputting from the MSX but for some reason the extron is not using/seeing/processing all three colors. I've used this d-sub input on the extron with my Apple IIgs and color/sync works. *For the 8pin DIN, I'm using the Type A pin out so 6,7,8 pins are RGB and 4,5 are the two sync lines. I also have pin 1 ground hooked up. I'm stumped - is it that I need to use a different combo of pin 3, 4, or 5 for Horizontal/Vertical Sync or is the Extron just not compatible with the MSX output? I know on paper the extron doesn't support 15kHz, but it does and works beautifully with my Apple IIgs. Most of the posts I find on this are talking about SCART connectors/wiring but I really want to make the 8 pin din to 15 pin D-Sub work if possible. Any help appreciated!
  9. Hey everyone! As you have heard me talk about on the show a number of times, my RGB light-sixer has been down for the count for a few months now. I've done all I can with the knowledge and skills I have, which consist of poor soldering skills that didn't help anything. Thankfully @Nathan Strum has graciously offered his help to see if he's able to diagnose the issue and get it up and running again! In the mean time @Albert has sent me his S-Video modded four switch that we used for the first time on the most recent show, which was a HUGE step up in quality of the composite Atari Jr we've been using for a while now. Thank you so much Al!! Here's the VCS all packed up nicely and ready to be shipped to Nathan, it was sent on May 22 and just arrived to Nathan today, hooray! I'll let Nathan take over from here on the incredible saga of the RGB Light-Sixer repair. Thank you so much Nathan!! - James
  10. I'm fairly new to the ST, but I picked up 3 STs, in a lot, recently. I got a 520stfm, a 520stm, and a 520st. I didn't get any monitors, or video cables, with them, though. Given that situation, the first thing that I did was to make up a DIN-13 to composite video + audio cable. The quality of output I got from that was acceptable (but not great) at low res, and terrible at medium res. Looking to improve my output, I bought a an NEW v2.0 Atari ST DIN13 to VGA Adaptor Low-Medium/High Switchable with Audio Out and, after reading that my Extron RGB-HDMI 300a was capable of going beyond the spec of 30 kHz, I tried it out. I think that the results speak for themselves. You can see some jailbars, particularly in high res, but if I take a bit of time to adjust the phase, those should go away. These images are the defaults, with zero tuning. - Alex
  11. Hey guys I was hoping if someone could help me get in contact with thgill. He had a thread selling SCART leads for an Atari Jaguar, it is here: http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/201261-pre-order-thread-jaguar-s-video-and-euro-scart-rgb-cables/ I paid him via pay pal back in October. My last correspondence was December 11th which he stated he would get me my cable late December. Now I am being ignored completely. He still checks into this site as I can see on his home page here. I have left countless PM's and even got some mods involved. I really don't want to get pay pal to rip my money back but this is getting upsetting I'd rather have my cable or at least a correspondence. Help???
  12. Already having discussed the problem we have (http://www.atariage....2/#entry2659435) when trying to use the raw video output, straight RGB values coming from a NTSC A7800, in a palette for emulators which lack proper NTSC video emulation (especially YUV/YIQ support), what will be accomplished here is taking YUV/YIQ achieved colors turn them 'vibrant' and make hard RGB values from them. In that same thread here... http://www.atariage....2/#entry2659624... you'll notice that true NTSC/YIQ/YUV simulation created multiple shade for each color value. So we will take some of the greater values and make a VIBRANT palette from it. The palette will be bright and brilliant respecting red against green, and blue will be stronger relative to the RAW palette or even a default derived YUV palette. Again this is to simulate the colors many NTSC users likely saw from their analog CRT TV's favoring more vibrance. This end result being limited with just an RGB palette and no further video controls working off the RAW palette from the previously linked thread. MESS is closer to ideal: http://www.atariage....2/#entry2660238 but I know many like using ProSystem and wanted to provide this for the community. Here is the NTSC_A7800_YUV_VIBRANT palette and color chart: NTSC_A7800_YUV_VIBRANT.zip
  13. Hey All. I've been working with a well known custom PCB maker from Sudomod (Minty Pi and Gameboy Zero stuff) named Helder Silva on developing my idea of an adapter that takes the Jag's AV port and converts it to the more common Nintendo Multiout. I chose the Multiout because it carries all the audio video signals needed for composite, s-video, and even RGB all in one port. I wanted to share some footage I took last night of me playing some Jag games with an HD Retrovision component cable upscaled through an OSSC using the final version of the adapter. I recorded this footage using a $20 capture device from Amazon so it's not the highest quality and it introduced lag, which you can see me struggle with in Alien vs Predator and Cybermorph but it get's the job done! What the JAG2SNES does: Converts the Jag's AV port to the more common Multiout port. Allows you to use SNES/N64/GameCube: Composite, S-Video, RGB Scart, and HD Retrovision (what I use) cables with your Jag. What this JAG2SNES doesn't do: Upscale. You'll need a scan converter like the OSSC, Framemeister, or GBS for that. If all goes well, it should go on sale sometime today for $25 USD (plus shipping) over at Helder's website and they'll be ready to ship immediately, no waiting list and no lead time to build. They are built. I will post to the buy, sell, trade forums once it's live.
  14. Hi everyone. (Long-time reader, first-time poster!) I've recently got my Jaguar set up after many years of sleeping in the loft (the Jag, not me). I'm using one of these SCART-to-HDMI upscalers. Overall, I'm pretty happy. Picture quality is decent, and Tempest 2000 sounds phenomenal through a 7.1 sound system that was the stuff of a mad-man's dreams back when it was released. However, I've just noticed that the image from the upscaler is offset down and left by about 3cm, resulting in cropping on the bottom and right edges, and a black border on the top and left. I'm guessing this is the upscaler's fault and not the Jag's, but I'm not certain (and I've got no other RGB-SCART sources to test with). Just wondering if anyone's seen something similar and (maybe) had a fix? Cheers, Chris
  15. Im looking for advice on this layout. Should I connect the OSSC directly to the TV or will signal quality be fine through an HDMI switch? Any glaring missteps with my current plan? N64 seems like a writeoff for now in PAL until I consider modding. Will PS2, Xbox and Wii be best served in an RGB OSSC setup or should I consider the HDMI solutions on the market ?
  16. Looking into getting an AV famicom. Since it has the multi out, can I used my SNES Scart cable on it?
  17. Hey guys I was hoping if someone could help me get in contact with thgill. He had a thread selling SCART leads for an Atari Jaguar, it is here: http://www.atariage....art-rgb-cables/ I paid him via pay pal back in October. My last correspondence was December 11th which he stated he would get me my cable late December. Now I am being ignored completely. He still checks into this site as I can see on his home page here. I have left countless PM's and even got some mods involved. I really don't want to get pay pal to rip my money back but this is getting upsetting I'd rather have my cable or at least a correspondence. Help???
  18. VBXE owners: do any of you have positive experiences with 15KHz RGB to HDMI converters, and if so, which models are recommended? I have a client who wants good video output over HDMI but since Sophia 2 is not available and he's interested in VBXE's feature set, he wants to go with VBXE. I can't really advise since I use SCART-enabled TVs and the only upscaler I own is a GBS-8200, which does a decent job of converting 15KHz RGB to VGA.
  19. Hello I had myself a Retrotink SCART to ypbpr converter, and it worked fine. However some capture cards were having trouble with 240p YCbCr. I traded it for a Retro Tink SCART to VGA line doubler. It'll be in the mail by next week. I noticed the PlayStation 2 and GameCube have problems with interlaced video. Luckily of all the games tested, only 19 out of like 300+ games for the Xbox Prime were "interlaced only.". That's how I found out that my VGA CRT monitor doesn't do interlaced video first of all I should I assume that the Hauppauge Rocket, when just used as a video converter, only converts the physical form of the video from composite, S-Video, and component, to HDMI, but the display mode and resolution remain the same? Second does the Hauppauge Rocket do 240p via S-Video which I heard is a possibility of S-Video? And does the rocket have problems with 240p via 3 RCA ypbpr? Third. If I play my Master System, Sega Tower of Power, Sega Saturn Sega Dreamcast and Super NES model 1, which could all accept scarred without modding the system, does either the Retrotink device convert any interlaced video into progressive or is there something in the internal chips of those systems and assume that if SCART is being used that progressive video will always be outputted. In other words if a game is in interlaced mode for any of those systems, will it not work on the Retrotink? Now question about the GameCube Wii and Wii U. If the Wii U is in 720p will we games that are normally in 480i get "progressivized" (de-interlaced). If I play GameCube games on the Wii, will the Wii deinterlace all GameCube games or only run ones with a native progressive mode? I know about the operating system being in progressive mode on the Xbox Prime just press both analog sticks in and triggers down and hold it down like a second or two to switch between progressive and interlaced. I also noticed weird artifacts on my PlayStation 3D TV that when Legend of Zelda Wind Waker was in 480p, the PlayStation 3 TV had gobbledygook in places that were normally black picture, like a transparency code or something. just wondering if there's going to be any weird behaviors dealing with a VGA CRT monitor that doesn't have an interlace mode By the way, when converting HDMI to VGA, my CRT beat my PlayStation 3D TV by one frame. Guess which one I'm playing my modern games on?
  20. More pics are in this Imgur post: https://imgur.com/gallery/j7OisBw I have a Triple Bypass modded MegaDrive VA4 Model 1. Everything works except the colour blue is missing, i did not have this problem before the recap/reflow. It has a yellow tint. I initially suspected that the RGB pins aren’t soldered on properly on the VDP Chip (315 5313A). I did break the RGB pins afterall. But still managed to solder the wire onto it by further exposing the broken legs with my craft knife. I used plenty of solder, and flux, there is no bridging and it’s not loose at all. I test the system with each pin soldered on individually. Red works (Reminds me of the Virtual Boy), Green works but not Blue. Instead i get a black screen with Blue when i test separately, even though it’s soldered on solid. Other mods include the Region Free chips, DFO accurate 60hz mod both work. The clicky reset button works, replaced the 7805 voltage regulators, i get sound. I’ve also recapped it prior to this problem using the Console5 kit. Could it be the caps? All are installed correctly. Many in the right place. Ps I did make a mistake at first by accidentally soldering in a 7812 which ended up shutting off the system and the VDP chip did get hot. I then quickly shut off the system and desoldered that 7812 that was misplaced in the 7805 packet and soldered in a 7805 and it powered on again. Voltages measured using my Astro Ai Multimeter from the VDP to GND. I put Sonic 3 in and took the game out at the white Sega Logo before measuring it. Here are the results. Red= 3.135v Green=3.255v Blue=3.438v I followed this guide for the Triple Bypass mod, more pics from the guide are below: https://www.retrorgb.com/genesis1rgbbypass.html https://console5.com/techwiki/images/f/fb/CXA1145PM.pdf There is also this guide, did not follow this since i have the Triple Bypass: https://videogameperfection.com/2018/08/28/megadrive-bypass-installation/ Is the console/VDP at fault or is it the mod such as the Triple Bypass board? And can this be fixed?
  21. I had a pretty bullet-proof way to record quality composite and s-video footage, but then I upgraded to the Framemeister and my standards have increased appropriately. What's a good method for recording game footage off of that? I suppose recording SD RGB from scart is also an option, but that's probably harder to do, and then I miss out on scanlines, etc. I'd rather do HDMI. What does everybody use for this? And are any solutions fairly easy--as in I don't have to constantly mess with complex settings? I have a fairly powerful PC a few feet away, so it doesn't have to be a standalone solution. That PC doesn't have a free PCI-e slot, so it'd probably need to be USB3 or standard pci.
  22. Hey, all. First post on AA. I'm trying to get the best picture from my PS2 on a Sharp 27SF56B 27" flatpanel CRT. I'm currently using a PS2/PS3 component cable, but RetroRGB recommends SCART over component for 240p/480i displays. My questions are: if I use a SCART cable from the PS2, won't I just have to convert it back to component for the TV input? Will throwing the SCART in the mix really make that much of a difference on a CRT? I get the impression that the RetroRGB guys are mainly trying to optimize for HD displays, but I prefer a more "traditional" experience. Any help here would be appreciated.
  23. gulps

    ntmini To scart1

    Analogue Nt Mini cable for SCART-Euroconector use.
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