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Current status (20-Feb-2021): I'm sending out PMs to those who have expressed interest. I'm doing this in the order that people responded. Initial Post (mostly) (10-Feb-2018): As many of you are aware, the Microvision by Milton Bradley is notorious for something people have called "screen rot", where the LCD screen becomes dark and unusable. Unfortunately, this effect is all too common. A fix for these would hopefully bring back to life these interesting and (I think) fun handheld systems. It took a few months or so, but I was finally able to get a couple of quotes for replacement LCD screens for the Microvision. These are intended to be drop-in replacements for existing screens. There's a number of costs related to this project. Some are known, such as engineering cost and production cost, and some are unknown, such as customs and duty, and shipping parts to me. Therefore, I've come up with some maximum prices in US dollars (shipping not included): Quantity 1: $22.00 Quantity 2+: $20.50 each Quantity 4+: $19.00 each Quantity 8+: $17.50 each [initial orders will probably be in the $17-$19 range each, regardless of quantity ordered (1+). This is because I'll be able to work on a bunch of orders one after the other, which will save time. Price later might be a few dollars more to account for time spent packaging single orders. Note that the exact price is to be determined, based on actual costs that I incur for the project]. I should mention that once you've bought and received your replacement screens, they're yours to do whatever you want with them... resell them at any price you see fit, put them in systems and sell those at any price you see fit, keep them on your shelf to look at, etc. FAQ: 1. Will the new screens be susceptible to screen rot? They shouldn't be. These will be brand new displays, built to high standards. We're used to the Microvision display being very poor, but most or nearly all other small LCD displays work well for many, many years. 2. What is the operating and storage temperature of the display. Operating Range: 0C to +50C. Storage Range: -10C to +60C. 3. Are the Zebra connectors (that connect the LCD screen to the board) reusable? Yes. They tend to stick a bit when they've been connected for a long time, but they seem to be robust in their ability to connect well with repeated use. 4. Are there installation instructions? Is it easy to install? Here are some pictures of disassembly of a Microvision (re-assembly is basically the reverse, although the front and back polarizer and reflector is not required). The green pad is still used, and the contact strips are still used. It's fairly easy, although sometimes the wires and other parts like to move around a bit, so plan on 20 minutes for a full upgrade.- 810 replies
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Hi! I found this forum while searching solutions for my Lynx II issue and it's been really informative! I came into the forum with complete ignorance and I've picked up some great information about the system. Let me tell you my story: I bought a Lynx II for cheap about a year and a half ago, tested it and stored it for some time. A couple of days ago I picked it up to play for a while and to my dismay I saw that even though the text on the Retro HQ and Kung Food was clean, the rest of the image was all scrambled! I cleaned up the contacts on the cartridges and on the console but it's still the same. I did peruse the forum and saw that everyone recommended changing the MOSFET (still have to read about what this is), changing the capacitors, replacing the LCD screen or replacing the Suzy and Mikey. I understand this would be the order in which to check everything, right? I'm not particularly skilled at soldering and using a oscillometer oscibut I can get some help with that. This is very hard for me since I'm in Argentina and getting anything videogame related delivered here comes with great cost but I do want to get my console to work. If anyone has a recommended place to start for figuring out how to get my console working, I'll really appreciate it! Here's some videos and photos of how the console is working right now. 20231130_190951.mp4 20231130_193409~2.mp4
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Hello, I just bought two retro Sega handheld consoles recently but I just realised that both of their screen are burnt as faulty. So I am look for an experienced repair for new LCD screens to replace them. I will happy to pay for LCD screens from websites like Ebay, Amazon, etc. I will pay you for your service to fix them. I will happy to drop them in Sydney metro but I don't mind to post them in only Australia as well. They are Sega Nomad Genesis and Sega Game Gear consoles. See pictures of them attached.
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Hello everyone: I have worked 18 or more hours on my BBS screen creator, basically it takes any text and rewrites it in Inverse Video, coming soon will be color codes and as I am using an array now to store the screens in, they are easily manipulated, IE: fancy borders done around the text and I am focusing on 40 column text for the Atari8 Bit line of computers. My program is taking shape, but I need to ge some sleep , as I am one of those types to focus on nothing but the programming at hand, and often program for 18-20 hour stretches or until I tire out. And I have just done that, tired out !!!! So I am no good for programming until after about 12 hours sleep. I will however upload the atr file, and hope that someone can see the logic in my programming , and maybe help me to use Atari Basic more efficiently. Here is the atr file: BBS_Screen_Creator_2_A.atr
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Looking for someone to repair my Game Gear's screen (screen works but only a solid blue is displayed, sound works) or nay info on Game Gear repair services.
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I alway find tutorials about the "dot" appearing on the screen or how to calibrate the video... but for the life of me I cannot find one where they address the issue of a slow warm up. At start I can hear the music and sound but the sreen stays black, then after 5 minutes or so it plays just fine... I come up thinking of spraying some WD 40 into the power-volume knob... do you think it will work? Thanks a lot in advance knowledgable people of the Vectrex
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From the album: The Best Assembly Computer
The same simulated assembler screenshot, but with a picture background. -
From the album: The Best Assembly Computer
This is the same simulated assembler screenshot, except the background is changed to dark blue and the foreground changed to aquamarine. -
When assembling, there are several different screen enhancements that could use to make the experience more enjoyable. One way is to change the background and foreground colors. This is the shot from the previous installment: By pressing a certain key (or key combo) on the keyboard, it will bring up a screen saying what color you want to use. That screen might look something like this: As indicated on the screen, press 0-9 or A-F to choose the appropriate color. When you press one of these buttons, the color beside the "current" heading changes to the selected color. For example, if you press "3," while in the palette shown above, you will choose purple. You can also toggle between foreground/background color choice by pressing the "/" key. To change palettes, press up/down. There are seven different palettes, plus one palette you can customize. The chart below shows the seven fixed palettes: Each row is one palette, and each palette has a different theme. They are based on palettes from older gaming and computer systems. Palette 0 - Apple ][ Palette 1 - Commodore 64 Palette 2 - Mattel Aquarius Palette 3 - Commodore VIC-20 Palette 4 - MSX Palette 5 - CGA Palette 6 - ZX Spectrum Palette 7 can be defined using your own colors. Each color in every palette is stored as a 24-bit RGB value. I will get to palette 7 editing in another post. Using the Apple ][ palette, let's say you decide to change the background to dark blue and the foreground to aquamarine. This is the result: If you don't want to change the colors, hit the ESC key. This causes any changes to be cancelled, leaving the background/foreground colors as they are. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Another thing you could do is have some picture to look at while programming. To change the background to a picture, press a certain key combination. Pictures can be uploaded from flash drives. If you have a flash drive installed, it will list all the picture files on it. The screen would look like this: Press the appropriate button (0-9 or A-Z, depending on the number of pictures) to choose the picture. If there are too many picture files to fit on one page, press left or right to move to another page. For example, let's say you want to use the following image. It's the back of an old McCormick food coloring box from 1975. This picture was taken from Etsy: When pictures are loaded into memory, they are stored as 24-bit RGB values for simplicity of decoding. The picture is also scaled to a size of 480*360 so it can fit on the screen. The picture replaces the background color. Here's how the screenshot at the top of the page would look with this picture as the background: You can change the picture by going back to the picture menu. Plus, you can choose to go back to a solid color background by going to the background color change menu. The foreground color change menu works the same. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In addition to pictures, you could also use a video for the background. The video loops forever. Like with pictures, you could upload videos from a flash drive. They can be in any format, but each frame is converted to 24-bit RGB format before being displayed. Frames are buffered. You could also choose to play two or more videos in a continuous loop. After one video ends, the next one starts. After the last video, it wraps back to the first one and the cycle repeats forever. Next, I'll mention code-as-you-go, one of the most important aspects of this type of computer.
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From the album: The Best Assembly Computer
This is a simulated screenshot of an assembler. It's inspired by the Apple ][. It shows a multiply routine in 68K (useful for the Sega Genesis). -
I'm building an Adventure-ish game in Batari BASIC. How do you add multiple screens?
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So, the other day I walked into my local game shop (G2k Games) and I bought a boxed copy of Chip's Challenge, even though I didn't have a Lynx. I just wanted a boxed copy of Chip's Challenge! However, after I got home, I started looking into the Lynx, and I couldn't resist going back to the store and buying one! They had two, both were the second model, and the first one I bought had a pretty messed up screeen. It had these splotchy colors in the upper-left corner, and the colors were all messed up unless you pushed in on the casing near option 2. I brought it back and they gave me the other one, which is really nice! However, I just noticed last night that it also has a tiny amount of those splotches on the screen as well. Most are near the upper left, however there are a few scattered around the screen. You can only see them when the screen is dark and the system is on. I've attached a photo. It's pretty hard to see them. My question is, is there anything I should do, and should I worry about this? Or is it out of my hands and I'll just have to replace the screen eventually? Thanks for any help!
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Hello, I recently acquired a 130XE that works great, the only problem is that there are faint bands/lines on the left side of the screen. I originally used an S-Video cable from eBay and thought the problem was with my LCD monitor, but they also show up when I use my Commodore 1084S Amiga monitor and a Chroma/Luma cable. I can adjust the color/contrast/brightness and that helps until the background color changes and they are visible again. After reading through the forums I found a few posts regarding 9 lines on the left side of the screen on a 5200 S-Video mod being "ANTIC noise during a DRAM refresh" and I am guessing I have the same problem. Anybody have any ideas on a fix? I have the later revision with 64x4 RAM. I've attached pics showing the lines, I turned up the contrast to make them more visible to the camera. Other Topic: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/218246-s-video-mod-9-vertical-lines-on-left-side/ Thanks!
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I just bought a Vectrex. The shipper placed two thin layers of bubble wrap around it. I was surprised the thing arrived without some giant crack in the case. However, as I examined the screen, I noticed the top end was leaning further back than the lower end, creating a gap between the case and the top end. Is this normal? While unboxing the system, I found two small loose pieces of black plastic that had broken off of something. I looked all around the console and found nothing snapped off, even nothing behind the controller. I did not power on the system yet, nor clean it up. I had planned to open up the back and dust inside while avoiding the monitor since I do not have and resistors or gator clips with wires to properly discharge it. Now I fear I must discharge it properly if these two pieces somehow held the monitor in place. Damn't! I attached a few pictures. You can click on them to get a bigger view. The two small pieces of plastic appear in the lower right corner of the first pic.
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Right, sometimes when I insert my PAL Popeye cart into my PAL 2600jr the screen rolls. When it does this the refresh rate of the TV has gone to 60hz. I can tell this from the channel number on screen being stretched in height just like when I connect my NTSC consoles. It only ever happens to this game. What could be triggering this? Other times the game runs just fine. I live in PAL land so my TV is PAL but accepts NTSC signals too.
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Hello, I am new in this board and this is my very first post so I hope not to be trolled. My question is: Which was the first Atari game to have a title screen? Indeed, which was the first video game to have a title screen?
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Hi all, I've recently ordered a 130XE from the US. I live in France but this kind of machine became recently hard to find. So it was easier and cheaper to buy it in the US. I'll soon receive it, but I have some question regarding the connection: - What kind of power cable do I need to plug it? Does something like that will do the job? http://www.amazon.fr/HQ-P-SUP-32-HQ-Convertisseur-tension-vers/dp/B000MRY5CU Also I'll need to plug to computer, but also the floppy drive, which comes from the same seller. - What's the best way to plug the 130XE on the TV screen? Can I use a Scart cable or a AV composite cable? Or is there a better way? Thanks. Can't wait to receive and play with it!
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Hello, I just received an Atari 8Bit Lot, including a Atari 800XL. Testing the machine, all seems are working fine, but when i load some games, like International Karate (take a look to the video), the game background is flickering. With games like Pole Position, Moon Patrol or Berzerk, the main character not appears on the screen or blinking on the screen. The Memory Self Test pass ok, but down on the screen where say : "Reset or Help to Exit", this letter are flickering. I tested with other PSU, and the same problem. I am using a Composite Video cable on CRT TV. So, someone know what are happening?. If you know, please let me know. Comments, suggests are welcome. Thanks! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwPWEYKJS7w
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Hi all, I have a problem with my atari 4160ste, it suddenly started to stop booting. It was working fine, except the floppy drive which was dead, so I bought a replacement one and then everything was perfect for a day and suddenly I got this bomb screen on start up. I have no idea what is causing this, I checked all the chips and stuff inside to look for a dodgy connexion or anything suspicious but it all looks OK and since it was working 5 min before I wonder what could have gone wrong all of a sudden. It sometimes starts if I force reset several time, most of the time it turn it on and get no sound at all, like its not even trying, but if I reset it a couple times sometimes with a floppy inside, it will eventually load the game or come back to the TOS environment. I have no knowledge whatsoever in electronics and computer components, I can just see that all the connexion seem fine on my boards. Could be a dodgy ram upgrade from previous user ? but it was working everytime before and all looks in good working order. Any idea what could be causing this ? Advice most welcome. cheers!
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I finally found my Nintendo 64! so I plugged it in and got everything together. I turned on the system then the tv. I turned it to the av channel and.......nothing. all there was was a black screen! so I tried turning it off and back on. the screen flashed for a second then nothing. I did everything correct I put the cartridge in before starting the system. could it be the av cable?
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Okay, so I bought a 2600 Jr. with 41 games from a guy on Craigslist for $30. He said it worked the last time he played it, which was about 2 years ago. I took it home and plugged it in, and (surprise!) it didn't work. I've spent time googling all day today and yesterday, and can't find a solution to my problem. I've hooked it up to an old CRT, and when I turn it on I see the game and can hear the sound for about half of a second before it cuts to a black screen. I've tried using a different RCA-Coax hookup at a local retro store, still no good. Plus, the RCA-Coax it came with works on my NES. (Yes, for those wondering, it's a manual switch box) So on to solution 2. I tried cleaning the contacts via rubbing alcohol and q-tips on a cartridge and putting the game in and pulling it out several times. Still no good. I've tried multiple games, and I get the same thing every time. I'm going back to the retro store to try using a different power adapter tomorrow, the one that came with it doesn't warm up when plugged in, but the light on the console comes on. It's really hard to tell when the cover is on. Is this normal for the Jr.? Oh, I also cracked it open and aside from a few rust spots here and there, it looks to be in pretty good condition. All the soldering is solid and I can't really see anything wrong with it. I was just wondering if anyone could tell me if I'm wasting my time trying to fix it. I'm hoping it's not a chip problem, but I don't know much about the 2600 to tell.
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Hello all! I recently received an Atari Jaguar from my uncle that is in pretty pristine condition since it's been in a case for the past 12 years. I was excited to try it out so I put in a game and press the button, I wait a few seconds, and nothing! The red light turned on, but nothing showed up on the screen. Sometimes the screen will show up as a dark green color. I tried wiggling the video cord (The kind with the RF box) but to no avail. I have attempted to blow on the cartridge and reinsert it at least 50 times. I'm still using the original power and video cords for the system. I have opened my Jaguar a few times to find out the problem. Does anybody know what can be the problem and tell me how I can fix it? So basically, It powers on, but no video or sound show up and I'm using the original cords that came with the system.
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