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Never opened, new in box Sears Tele-games console and original games, paddles and joysticks. Sears version of the classic Atari 2600. This is the 'heavy sixer' version made in Sunnyvale California. The box is unopened as shown in the pictures. All the original parts, manuals, games, controllers, paddles, joysticks, power supply and packaging is original and intact inside. Parents bought two of these, one for me and one for my sister growing up in the late 1970's. We only ever opened and played with one of them and this one was forgotten about at my parents house until recently when I found it in their attic. This is a rare find as I am sure anyone on this site would know. Asking $500 OBO. Contact me at Camberdan@icloud.com if interested
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Hm, interesting, so it seems I have 90 Atari loose cartridges including some duplicates/variations. For some reason I thought I had more. Not surprisingly, there are a lot of common cartridges here. You have your standard Combat, Air-Sea Battle, Yars Revenge, Defender, Asteroids, Missile Command, Pac-Man, Space Invaders, Berzerk, and maybe Adventure. 90% of the people that have an Atari probably have 3 or more of those in their collection. Those are the mainstays. I have the common paddle games there like Warlods, Video Olympics, Breakout, Super-Breakout, and Night Driver. Then there's the usual second wave of (arcade) games such as Ms Pac-Man, Galaxian, Phoenix, Moon Patrol, Jungle Hunt, Centipede and Pole Position. Again this is the group that probably most people have in their collection as well, common but also good quality titles. Followed by the sporadic wave of newer titles like Battlezone, Dig Dug, Mario Bros, Millipede, Crystal Castles, and Kangaroo. Pretty common ones and in my mind, all these titles are well worth having. I remember seeing all of these in the stores when I was a kid and even got to play many of them when some of my friends or classmates lent them to me. I noticed that I have Gremlins in there. I remember hunting for this one high and low, and found it a box of what must have been 500 Asteroids, Defender and Space Invaders cartridges at some video game store in Kensington Market in downtown Toronto. Got a pretty good deal on it as well. Occasionally I will run into a store where the owner has no real sense of the worth of the cartridges or just wants to get rid of it. Mind you, I've had people blatantly wanting to rip me off just to see how high I will go. Unfortunately the game Gremlins isn't very good. Then there's a group of cartridges that came out in the late 80s like Solaris, Desert Falcon, Super Football, Jr. Pac-Man, Sprint Master, and Realsports Boxing. I recall buying these when I came to Canada at fairly good prices ($20-$30 I believe at the time). Pretty good titles, I always liked Desert Falcon (I seem to be the minority), Solaris (probably the most advanced game in my mind) and Realsports Boxing. There are a few titles that I wasn't really aware of until I re-started my collection like Radar Lock, Road Runner, Off-the Wall, Midnight Magic, Crossbow, and Double Dunk. I have some Sears titles, although I keep looking for Submarine Commander. The thing that has puzzled me how some of the more obscure crappier older Atari games like Game of Concentration are being sold for higher prices than what I have accustomed seeing. Many of the older titles are pretty poor and don't hold my interest for more than a few minutes at a time. There are few where I turned it on and then right away turned it off (Math Grand Prix, Home Run, etc) . I can deal with bad graphics and sounds, but poor gameplay won't get my time. There's been a few titles that I looked for a long time like Track&Field, Taz and Road Runner. I probably paid more for them than I should, but after a while I just tired looking for a good deal. I play T&T quite a bit and Road Runner is actually pretty fun to play. Taz is not that good. I don't really care for variants of the games based on label, or go out of my way to collect the Coleco or Parker Brother re-issues by Atari. The ones I have usually came when I bought bundles from someone privately. I still keep an eye out for games like Pengo, Quadrun or Video Cube and I sometimes think, "hell, just pay for it on eBay and get it over with". With respect to any of the older titles that I'm missing, ifI stumble upon on it when I browse at stores I may just buy it on the spot. It's getting to the point where many times I'm not totally sure what I'm missing. Used to have a list on my phone (even created a Windows Phone app in Visual Studio at some to manage it) but I haven't kept my wishlist up-to-date. Also wish I had a Indy 500 racing controller, but I have a feeling I'd play it like once or twice and then put it away. A bit of a shame the quality of the labels of many of the cartridges that I have. Got to give Atari credit for the artwork on their games. Interesting to see all the variations of the Atari cartridges.
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Selling a Tele-games Atari 2600 6 switch sold via Sears model 637.9943. System is in great condition and comes with AC adapter and RadioShack TV antenna switch. Two paddles and joysticks as well. Games included (some with very good condition instruction manuals - see pictures) basketball - manual bowling Breakaway IV - manual Centipede Circus Atari - manual Homerun (missing small label) Football Frogger - manual Outlaw (missing small label) - manual Pac-Man- manual Pitfall Pokerplus (4 Telegames yellow label) - manual Space Invaders - manual Super Breakout - manual Star Raiders - manual Target Fun - manual
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I have a CIB gatefold-box copy of Outer Space (the Sears version of Star Ship). I can't find any for sale on ebay, or any that have sold recently besides the one I bought, which was not listed as gatefold or under the video games category, and because of this I was able to get it for just $8. Does anyone have any information on how rare this might be, and how much the value of one usually is? I'm not planning to ever sell this, I'm just curious.
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So, I know most people aren't too interested in Pong consoles, but maybe Atari/Sears enthusiasts will find this as exciting as I do! Over the weekend, I acquired a Sears Tele-Games Super Pong that slipped under the radar on eBay. Not the woodgrain-adorned pedestal model that everyone's probably familiar with, though--that being model# 99736, the equivalent of Atari Super Pong C-140 but with handheld controls and a speed switch. Rather, this is a model I don't think I've even heard of in over 20 years of collecting. It's not even documented on Pong-story.com (although that site doesn't appear to have been updated in some time--Atari Hockey Pong C-121 is also undocumented there), and apart from a brief description in the 1977 Sears Wishbook and a footnote in Michael D. Current's Atari History Timeline--which indicates this thing never even shipped--I can't find any evidence of its existence. This model is the Sears version of the similarly elusive Atari Super Pong Pro-Am C-200 (which, after two fruitless decades of searching and researching, I had become convinced was never actually released--incidentally, Mike Current's work supports this--until I spoke to another collector last night who has one ) : the Sears Tele-Games Super Pong model# 99788. As no Atari C-200 or Sears 99788 had ever turned up publicly to my knowledge in the last two decades (though it's possible they did and I just missed them), I had some questions I was excited to finally have answered, namely: does it use the same board and case as the Super Pong Pro-Am Ten or Sears Super Pong IV 99789? As I giddily unpacked the game, tested it out, and opened it up to see what's under the hood, some things struck me: 1. This thing is made of the most insanely brittle, fragile plastic of any console I've ever seen. This is not hyperbole; there were over a dozen tiny broken-off pieces and chips of plastic in the shipping box and inside the console, and a few bigger, more noticeable ones that I glued back. Ordinarily I might have attributed that to shipping damage or maybe carelessness on the part of the seller...except the battery cover (which appears to have already been repaired at some point in the past) snapped in two places when I tried to open it up. And then snapped in a couple of other places when I tried to put it back. I've superglued it back together, but that cover's staying off from now on and we're going Battery Eliminator only. (I feel like I should be more pissed about this, but this system was listed as "parts/as-is" and honestly, it looked like there was a good chance it wouldn't even power up, so my expectations were a bit tempered anyway!) The only console in my collection that comes close to this Super Pong's fragility is my DINA system...and even that feels relatively robust by comparison. I am absolutely confident that if this system was accidentally dropped, it would shatter into a hundred pieces. Also, the plastic is a brown color instead of being closer to black like the Atari Pro-Am Ten or my Sears Super Pong IV, and the paint on the embossed "Game Select" and "Pro-Power/Reset-Am" labeling is a matte brownish gold instead of metallic gold. At first I thought maybe it was faded or washed out or had suffered some kind of sun/heat damage, but the inside of the case is the same color (the switches are uniformly colored on both sides, as well). Overall this Super Pong console looks nice enough on its own, but kind of dull and flat next to the Super Pong IV or Pro-Am Ten. 2. The manufacturer's label on the bottom of the case is covering a different label; a serial number is visible through it. It would be very interesting to see if there's an Atari Pro-Am C-200 label under there, but I'm not about to try to remove the top label! 3. The controllers appeared hardwired. This surprised me because, since the only difference between this Super Pong 99788 and the Super Pong IV 99789 (or Atari Pro-Am and Pro-Am Ten) is the number of players/controllers, I expected to simply see two controller jacks at the back of the system instead of their four. Hardwired controllers--coming out of different areas of the case than where the controllers would plug into the 4-player game, to boot--seemed to nix the notion that they used the same motherboard. Accordingly, the cases are also actually slightly different (another surprise since I was expecting Atari would have simply capped over the holes for the unused paddle jacks), with different cutouts and openings than the Pro-Am Tens and Super Pong IVs have. Additionally, the controllers had strain reliefs glued around their cords, but have since desiccated and broken off (the right controller cord still has a piece attached). 4. They used the same motherboard after all! There are unpopulated but marked areas on the board for four controller jacks and a couple of ICs that would have been used on the Super Pong IV 99789 and Pro-Am Ten. Interestingly, this system's paddle controllers aren't actually hard soldered like I initially thought, but connect internally via a 2-pin Molex-type connection...and in different areas on the board than where the controller jacks would go. Also, as dirty as the system looked in the eBay photo, the board is stunningly clean. 5. The manual is not printed on the glossy or semi-glossy paper Atari and Sears typically used for their manuals, but rather a paper stock similar to something like a heavy construction paper. The system works great--my wife and I put it through its paces over the weekend, and I rediscovered the simple addiction of trying to get the ball through a hole at the top of a wall in the "Basketball" game! I'm a little disappointed in the fragility of the plastic, although also curious if that--and its different coloring, and the sticker covering over another sticker on the bottom, and the the cheaper paint used on the labeling, and this unit's rarity in general--could point to it being part of a test batch or something. Regardless of whatever the story with thing is and whatever its release status actually was, this is an insanely cool find that I'm thrilled to have in my collection! ?
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Just curious on this topic. I recently purchased a Sears SVA unit from an AA member, and shortly after, another one on eBay. I immediately noticed there was a difference in the gold color of the controllers, on/off switch and reset button between the two units. I took out a third SSVA unit I had, sure enough there was. That one was more silver in color than the other two. All three of these units are original to my best knowledge. Moving on to the Mattel unit, then the Sylvania and finally my Tandy unit. The Sylvania has a very metallic/silver look. The Tandy is more gold shaded, with the Mattel being close to the same. Whereas the Sears units actually look more gold in color, but different shades between production years. Was this the case with these models, all being sold under different labels, or am I just seeing things? If there are color variations in the controllers, what years are the deepest color gold? I would think first generation models? More fun INTV triva...? Thanks for the clarification. JR
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I'm making this thread because I'm not a big fan of the SVA 2 controllers and I'm working on replacing them. The hunt for joysticks is going just fine, as there are many of those made for the 2600, and they all seem to work more or less identically on the SVA 2. Where I'm having a huge difficulty is in getting working paddles. The SVA 2 controllers work as paddles, but they are not as comfortable to me as are the official 2600 paddles. The problem is that the official paddles are difficult. In Warlords, they work like on the 2600, where you plug them into ports 1 and 2 and they control players 3 and 4, but they also require one to have the button option of the system set to 'Joystick', which means I cannot use one set of atari paddles and the two SVA 2 controllers to make 4 players. That's not a big deal for me, since I'll be buying another set of paddles, but a bigger problem is Breakout. It only picks up one of the official paddles when in port 1, and when in port 2 there is no effect. Maybe it actually works fine in port 2 as a player 3/4 control, but I have not yet seen this happen. There are some other inconsistencies, but nothing yet that has affected the games (Kaboom plays properly, for example). I just want to understand why paddles are so tempermental on the SVA 2, and to learn of what controllers will work properly on the system. It looks like some games work fine with two sets of atari paddles, but what should I do for games that do not work this way on an SVA 2? And are there any other weird things I should know about the SVA 2?
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Just as the title states, what are your favorite/top pong consoles? I ask this, for I have been ever increasingly interested in purchasing a pong console- and while an Atari branded one is nice in terms of "authenticness", there are a vast amount of other consoles varying from look, design, games etc. As pong museum says, "and the ball was square . . ." haha
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From the album: My Collection
Unfortunately I don't have the Sears manual, and I'm in no hurry to get one. -
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From the album: My Collection
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From the album: My Collection
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From the album: My Collection
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From the album: My Collection
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From the album: My Collection
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....mine broke & I'm still kicking myself over it
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Is anyone else running into audio/video popping when using a Suncom Tac2 with a Sears Video Arcade II? It only happens when I press the orange buttons on either side of the controller. The 4 switch woody 2600 I have has no issues with it. I wonder if it's a power/feedback issue with that specific model. It's kind of comical to watch the screen jump and audio crackle in Berzerk every time you shoot an alien. Also the regular Atari controllers (cx-40?) do not have the issue. I am using a non-Atari branded 9VDC 1A adapter with polarity like (-)-©-(+). Wondering if maybe it's a power issue, although the Arcade II exhibits no other problems with any other devices. There seems to be zero consensus on what the ideal V/A or even polarity or AC/DC should be on these forums and interwebs for this console but I do believe it has to have a bridge rectifier if it can handle both VDC and VAC adapters. I just got this unit with the Tac2 over the weekend locally so I have no idea if it ever didn't do this with the tac2. My guess is it's just the fact that it's a clone that wasn't completely vetted with 3rd party accessories since it was originally destined to be the 2800 in Japan.
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From the album: INTV
My custom Sears unit that I restored & modded w/ RGB and composite AV, plus a custom Inty arcade controller that I built using a Neo Geo X as a base & Grips03's PCB kit. I used a magic eraser to clean up the cream colored plastic, the backend was repainted, a paint pen was used to touch up the raised lettering and then the whole console was clear coated. A lot of time and work put into it all, but everything came out great!© TJW 2019
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Hey all, My Sears Super Video Arcade (which I probably overpaid for, but oh well) came today! So I figured Id make a post and show it off a little bit . Some things of note: 1. The SVA has much smoother controller disks than my 2609, Intellivision II, or System III (with the II being the crunchiest). Im talking orders of magnitude smoother. Not sure if this is due to some difference in the SVA or perhaps it has less mileage than my other consoles. 2. The SVA exhibits zero video ghosting in my Vizio LCD, where the 2609 has minor ghosting and the Inty II has severe ghosting. 3. The SVA has its clearest picture on Channel 3 where all three of my other Intellivisions have the best picture on Channel 4. 5. The controller wires, being uncoiled, are much longer but also a nightmare to put back in the console vs the consoles with coiled controller wires. 6. DUNGEADVANCEDAGONS.
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From the album: My Collection
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From the album: My Collection
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Weeding down the collection and decided that it might be time to get rid of label variations. I LOVE Sears Picture Labels. LOVE them, but I need to focus the collection a little bit. I believe this is every Sears title and label variation other than Superman Picture Label. NOTE : SOME OF THE PRICES HAVE BEEN CHANGED. SOME GAMES HAD BOXES AND MANUALS AND SOME DID NOT. PRICES WENT UP OR DOWN ACCORDINGLY. Text Label Game Only Speedway II $4 Spelling $4 Video Chess $4 Warlords $4 Soccer $4 Slots $5 Space Combat $4 Space Invaders $4 Target Fun $4 Stellar Track $4 Superman $8 Circus $4 Asteroids $4 Canyon Bomber $4 Capture $4 Baseball $4 Backgammon $4 Poker Plus $4 Basketball $4 Bowling $4 Breakaway IV $4 Dodger Cars $4 Outer Space $4 Othello $5 Chase $4 Maze Mania: $4 Maze $4 Math $4 Code Breaker $4 Missile Command $4 Arcade Pinball $4 Checkers $4 Golf $4 Cannon Man $40 Black Jack $4 Dare Diver $10 Arcade Golf $4 Gunslinger $4 Game And Manual (No Box) – All text label except Adventure Night Driver : $5 Speedway II : $5 Berzerk: $5 Pong Sports: $5 Adventure: $18 (picture label) Steeplechase: $15 Super Breakout: $5 Picture Label (No Box or Manual) Missile Command $20 Asteroids $5 Canyon Bomber $20 Demons to Diamonds $6 Arcade Pinball $6 Chase $10 Defender $6 Poker Plus: $12 Basketball $40 Math Grand Prix $6 Race $7 Space Combat $8 Stellar Track $8 Submarine Commander $18 Star Raiders $6 Yars’ Revenge $4 Warlords $4 Games w/ Gatefold Boxes and Manuals Black Jack $17 Pong Sports $65 Target Fun $15 Speedway II $15 Games w/ Box and Manuals Speedway II $12 Space Invaders $10 Tank Plus $10 Target Fun $10 Night Driver $20 Haunted House $10 Pac Man $10 Baseball $48 Football $10 Outer Space $10 3D Tic Tac Toe $10 Maze $10 Breakaway IV $17 Brain Games $15 Dodger Cars $10 Gunslinger $38 PENDING? Box and Game – No manual Memory Match $8
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From the album: My Collection
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