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Found 88 results

  1. "I curse you, I curse you!" "No Grimble! No curses!"
  2. I am developing a new game "Space flies attack" for Sega Genesis and Mega Drive. This is a clone of "Space Invaders" and "Galaga". You can play together at the same time. Or with one AI partner. More than 90 colors on the screen.
  3. Some video games stink out loud immediately. This is one of them.
  4. What is a Marsupliami, and why?
  5. I am deciding to sell my collection(s). I have a couple of large collections that I want to sell. ( most of the Atari library, half of the Nintendo library, several other systems and games (sega genesis, super Nintendo, odyssey2, intellivision, action max, many standalone pong systems CIB, etc, etc.) ) looking to see if anyone would be interested in buying one of more of these collections, or is anyone has any information on the best place to sell these collections. thank you for all your help.
  6. Clearing out my Sega spares! Shoot me a PM and we can discuss pricing and I can get pictures your way. Want the whole lot? Great. Want one game? That's fine, too. Game Gear (all cart-only) Caesar's Palace The Chessmaster Desert Speedtrap Starring Road Runner and Wile E. Coyote SOLD NFL '95 Mighty Morphin' Power Rangers Super Columns Genesis Complete in Box Arch Rivals SOLD Battlemaster SOLD Cyborg Justice SOLD Barney's Hide & Seek Game Bulls vs. Lakers and the NBA Playoffs SOLD Hard Drivin' SOLD The Immortal SOLD The Lion King SOLD Madden '94 SOLD NHL '94 SOLD Olympic Gold SOLD Pac-Man 2: The New Adventures SOLD PGA Tour Golf II SOLD Risk Sonic 1 SOLD Sonic 2 Tecmo Super Bowl SOLD Box + Game Dungeons & Dragons: Warriors of the Eternal Sun SOLD Marvel Land NHL '94 (Limited Edition - First Run) SOLD Side Pocket Sonic 3 Sports Talk Baseball (box art is missing from case) Street Fighter II: Special Champion Edition SOLD Cart-Only Beauty and the Beast: Roar of the Beast Desert Strike Ecco the Dolphin Ecco: The Tides of Time SOLD Game Genie Genesis 6-Pak John Madden Football '92 Jurassic Park Lethal Enforcers The Lion King (x2) Madden '97 Madden '98 Mario Lemieux Hockey Menacer (x2) NBA Showdown '94 Outrun 2019 SOLD Pebble Beach Golf Links PGA Tour '96 (x2) Sonic 1 SOLD Sonic 2 SOLD Sonic & Knuckles Sonic Spinball Streets of Rage 2 SOLD Strider SOLD Toejam & Earl in Panic on Funkotron Tommy Lasorda Baseball SOLD Triple Score World of Illusion Starring Disney's Mickey Mouse & Donald Duck World Series Baseball X-Men 2: Clone Wars Cart-Only "Made in Mexico" Cart Variants (May not fit in Genesis Model 1 consoles) Arcade Classics SOLD Championship Pro-Am SOLD Champions World Class Soccer SOLD Clue SOLD Demolition Man SOLD Genesis 6-Pak SOLD Jungle Strike SOLD Jurassic Park SOLD Monopoly SOLD Paperboy SOLD Pitfall: The Mayan Adventure SOLD Risk: The World Conquest Game SOLD Sonic ClassicsSOLD Super BattleshipSOLD Tournament Fighters SOLD Vectorman 2 SOLD Wheel of Fortune SOLD Finally, I have a few Sega CD spares: Cliffhanger (CIB) SOLD FIFA International Soccer (disc-only) SOLD NFL's Greatest San Francisco vs. Dallas (CIB)
  7. A punishment to the fans of Frank Castle.
  8. Not a video to share this time, although in hindsight I should have made one as a quick tech video. But recently I decided I would get some replacement filter caps for use in standard wall wart power supplies like those used with our Atari, Sega, etc. consoles from back in the day. As I have quite a few of them on hand and wanted to test them out I decided to start with a few Sega Genesis power supplies. I decided to look at three different supplies last night. I first checked the voltages from all of them and they were all pretty normal. One reading about 14v, a model 2 supply reading 13.5, another model 1 reading about 13.8v. Nothing out of the ordinary from such old transformer supplies that don't have a load on them. Still, they are all well over 20 years old so I figured why not. Now, many of the sega power supplies require a small 4mm hex bit to open them up and that was the case with one of the model 1 supplies I had. I didn't have this tool so I ordered it online. The other two I had actually required a small #5 security torx bit similar to what is used on TurboGrafx and PC engine systems. But that bit I had on hand and with that I was ready to crack them open and get to work. The first model 1 PSU is one I've been using for a few years on my workbench as a go to PSU for several systems. I've created adapters so that I can use it with several other classic consoles I work on so I don't have to keep a bunch of different ones on hand at the ready. So it has gotten quite a bit of use over the past few years. It required the small 4mm hex bit I had to order. No issues once I got it opened up. Looked okay and had that ages electronics smell but nothing out of the ordinary. Removed the old large 3300µf at 16v capacitor. It seemed to be in good shape still with no evidence of bulging or leaking. Still it is over 20 years old and would hurt to change it out. Did that and working just dandy! Then I looked at the second one and this one is where I first discovered that the 4mm hex nut driver I'd gotten wouldn't work and I needed to use my #5 security torx instead. Opened it up and it noticed it seemed to be glued shut as the two halves wouldn't separate as easily as the last one had. Interesting..worked on it a bit and was able to get it to come loose on one side. It was right about when I started to grab for a small flat blade screw driver help pry open along the sides that the smell hit me... If you aren't aware, the old electrolyte used in these older caps smells very much like fish and has an oily consistency to it. And it is very distinctive and not at all like a normal electronics type smell. This wasn't a good sign as that smell would indicate that I was about to discover something nasty inside. Once I got the two halves of the PSU case apart, the smell really hit me and I could see it. A shiny surface on the top of the small PCB around some of the diodes on the PSU and where the output wires are soldered in. I removed the PSU assembly from the case housing and this is what it looked like on top. Now it is hard to see, but you can make out the shiny look on the PCB and also where it is a darker color. But the large filter cap looks okay physically right? Well not quite because once I removed it you can see near the negative lead of the cap, where it has stained the PCB from electrolyte that has been leaking from the capacitor over the years. Also hard to make out but the bottom of the cap itself was also coated in the oily residue of the leaking electrolyte. Now this doesn't seem like a big deal right? Just clean that off and put in a new cap and your good to go? Well, the bottom side of the PCB where the traces are, has a very different story to tell and shows you the results of what leaking electrolyte does on a PCB over time. Here you can see where there is a mottled almost moldy look the left half of the bottom of the PCB here. Well, that is where the cap was and where the electrolyte over time has seeped onto the bottom of the PCB and started to corrode the upper layers of the PCB masking and copper traces under neath. This is essentially cancer on a PCB slowly eating away at the board. If this had been something with much smaller traces to components, it would likely be a lost cause or at least require quite a bit of small and time consuming trace repair work. Luckily the traces on most PSUs like this are large and thick. So how do you clean this up? I took my electrical grade 99.9% alcohol cleaning solvent and a toothbrush and went to work to clean and neutralize the electrolyte. In the process of this, the top green layer coating started to flake off exposing the copper traces underneath it since the electrolyte had so badly ate into it. There were also dark patches on the copper itself underneath. This required me to also use my fiberglass pen to remove the remaining layer protecting the traces to fully expose them and also remove the corrosion. This is what it looked like after cleaning and removing most of the corrosion. Still a few dark patches left behind that has pitted into the copper traces but it shouldn't get any worse than it is now since it is cleaned up. So what now? Well I installed the new replacement filter cap and the used lots of flux and solder to apply a new layer across the traces to protect the copper underneath going forward. This was following up by a lot more cleaning with both a PCB board spray cleaner and lots more high grade alcohol. I then left it out overnight exposed to fully dry out before testing and reassembly. The third PSU was for a model 2 genesis and also required the #5torx security bit to open it. It was like the first PSU in that the capacitor in it wasn't leaking and everything appeared to be fine inside. Just replaced that cap the same way as the first, buttoned it back up and it works just fine. But the moral of this is that just because a power supply works, doesn't mean that everything inside it is okay and good to go. That second PSU with the leaking cap would have eventually died on me as the traces would have continued to corrode and eventually sever from the rest of the circuit and possible start to lift from the PCB itself. This means that with this wonderful discovery, I need to now try and open up all other PSUs that I'm able to open up easily and inspect them for similar cleaning and possible repairs.
  9. Metal Blast 2277 - comics style Run'n'Gun (+ side-scrolling shooter) for Sega Genesis / Mega Drive. 2277 year. Space Invaders. One hero! Advance your character by eliminating the enemies which appear. Finish off the boss at the end of each stage to clear it and advance to the next level. Taking a hit from your enemies will kill your character. If you run out of lives, the game ends. Video:
  10. The fact I'm terrible at this game should in no way dissuade you from buying or playing it!
  11. More fun than I thought it would be!
  12. It’s obscure, it’s hard, it’s ... got a low chance of survival! It’s Sorcerer’s Kingdom.
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