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Found 12 results

  1. Hi, I have 5 of these beauties for sale. Brand new and unused original old new Atari stock. This metal badge fits in the top part of the Atari STE case. Item will be send securely to ensure it is not bent. Just remove the old badge, clean off any old residue, peel off backing from rear of new badge and attach in place of old badge. £20 each plus P&P. UK P&P = £1.90 Europe P&P = £3.90 USA/Russia/Asia = £4.90
  2. Hello, I have just released an ALPHA version of my little summer project : a breakout style game written in assembly 68k for the Atari STE. This alpha release may work on other STs as I do not use the blitter and the DMA sound yet. It is functionnaly complete (no menu screen, only the game that start over after 3 balls) and is played with a joystick. Press any key on the keyboard to quit. The link above to the release give access to the prg file. The project page is there : https://github.com/sporniket/sporny-wrecking-ball Regards, and have fun.
  3. Happy 4th to my fellow Americans here. Happy Thursday to all else. I've mentioned elsewhere that I came across a large lot of Atari hardware/software/etc. and in this are a bunch of manuals and system/language disks that I'd like to re-bundle as correctly as possible. However, due to the somewhat generic (to my eye, anyway) way Atari labeled some of these disks, I'm not able to make a guess as to what they came with. Is there a site somewhere that lists the bundles of manuals and software that came with each line of ST/TT/Falcon systems? I've done different searches online, but maybe I'm just not creative enough to figure out what might work best. Thanks! Greg
  4. I just got an Atari Mega STe, but it lacks a keyboard. So.. I need one. Mega ST or Mega STe doesn't matter as long at it's in uk, us or norwegian layout. I'm not too found of QWERZ and in particular not AZERTY, so unless a spare keyboard with the right keycaps is available that's not interesting.
  5. Just picked up an STE and I've read that some early models had defective DMA chips. Is there a way to test in my DMA chip is defective in my STE?? thanks!
  6. Frustrated that items that are no longer available retail, are still protected by intellectual property rights, but the simple fact is I can't get any of the "dubious origin" versions of these two games to run correctly on real iron. So I'm looking to buy them from someone who was lucky enough to have them from when they WERE available. Local (Toronto Canada) is always better, but happy to pay for shipping to get these two. (and years of collection vintage tech has made me keely aware of shipping costs, so I'll suffer no sticker shock)
  7. I’m giving a 1040 STE Some TLC. 1) What version of TOS do I have (pictures) and what’s the best version to upgrade to? A version that handles years 2000+ would be nice. 2) She has only 1MB (pictures) where are good sources to purchase 4MB (4x 1M Simms)? And what specs/speeds are best? Existing TOS Existing 1MB of memory
  8. The STE has two extra joystick ports on the side. These are labeled as 'A' and 'B' and are female ports whereas the primary mouse/joystick and joystick ports under the STE are male ports. How does one use the two extra joystick ports on the STE? Do you just need an adapter to reverse the port gender and otherwise use standard joysticks? Are these ports transparently supported by games? If you have joysticks in these ports do they replace joystick ports 0 and 1 or do they allow for a total of 4 joysticks? Any other uses for these two extra ports? The dual mouse/joystick port 0 and joystick port 1 under the STE.
  9. Hello fellow atarians! I have a problem with my atari STe. As the title says when I turn it on it gets a weird screen like so: Here are the specs and what I've done so far: - Atari 1040STe, 4mb memory, hxc floppy emulator - Strange rev board: - No visual damage to the board/components - 4 mb memory upgrade (tried multiple different simm's in different combinations and tried these on a other ste & worked) - Replaced shifter chip (facebook ste group came up with that one, didn't work unfortunatly) - Pushed all the chips in their sockets - Also tried working floppy drive with floppies. - Hold the reset button for 10 seconds when turning on. - Video: 13pin din to composite cable - Video: RF via TV - Video: 13pin din to scart - All gave the same result, see this short video: https://vid.me/e/UxCW - Pressing keys on the keyboard give the typical beep sound so sound works I guess? - Hxc floppy emulator works great on other atari's, on this one it doesn't seem to load much. See this short video (beep = st cold reset): https://vid.me/e/dojE - Tried a different, known working, PSU still same result. - TOS roms are soldered (so no socket's damnit, I have 2.06 roms laying here though but too scared to solder and fecking the board up) Even after all that, I can't figure out what's wrong. I have ordered a HI-res din to vga cable to test out if the ste is maybe stuck in HI-res mode or something. (read it somewhere, can't remember). Warning, I don't have much hardware knowledge (so pls not too much jargon) and I don't have precise soldering skills and money ( ) Is there anyone here who might have any idea what it might be?
  10. Hi guys! I and my friend decided to bring something new to you. The joystick. But we need some feedback before it. Description: We decided to find out a way how to make new Atari Joysticks and similar joysticks with 3D printer. We try to have as similar as possible construction for the same impression of playing games like the original old joysticks. But we have one thing in our construction different. Our Stick will be exchangeable and modulable. We will have more types of sticks and you can choose what type you want. Sticks will have different shape, size etc. Our questions are: 1) Is this idea interesting for you? 2) Are you looking for some new joystick because your old was damaged? 3) What types of sticks do you prefer? What joysticks do you like? What was your favourite joystick in 80/90's? ( CX40, QuickShot etc. ) 4) Would you like exchangeable stick at your joystick ( when you will get tired of the old type of stick you can simply change it for another one ) or you'd rather buy another new joystick when you want to exchange the stick? 5) Is the autofire function important for you? 6) How long stick movement do you prefer? ( short movement is like pressing a small button, long movement is like pressing a key on your keyboard ) 7) Do you like an idea that you can buy only the 3D data for your 3D printer and make it for your own? 8) Do you have some tips why this idea doesn't make sense? For example you can buy really new QuickShot on Ebay etc. Progress: Thank you for your time, sharing and answers! Best regards, EnJoyStick Team
  11. Hello, I have got Atari 520 STe which is out of order. 1. I connected this computer to a TV set with use of STe's monitor output (only composite and GND signals are used). 2. For testing purpose and better accessibility to the motherboard, the keyboard and the floppy are unattached. 3. After power turned on, it is visible white screen on the TV (no bombs, only white screen). 4. After pressing Reset button, for a short time it is possible to see white horizontal stripes (whole screen filled with white/black stripes) on the TV set. After a short time, screen becomes black, and then dark-green horizontal stripes appear. After releasing Reset button, the screen becomes white again. 5. I checked in a few motherboard's points that there is +5 VDC. Also, PSU gives +12 VDC. *** CPU MC68000 6. There is 8 MHz square wave on CPU's CLK pin. 7. BERR pin is set (+5 VDC) all the time. There are no low signal pulses (0 VDC) events on BERR when Reset button is pressed nor released -- BERR pin is set all the time. 8. There is square wave 800 kHz (duty 50%) on E pin. 9. Normally, RESET pin is set (+5 VDC) all the time. When Reset button is pressed, then RESET pin goes low (0 VDC). After releasing Reset button, RESET pin goes high (+5 VDC). 10. HALT pin is in low state (0 VDC). After pressing and then releasing Reset button, three pulses on HALT pin are visible. * Please refer to the picture in attachment - pin HALT. 11. Normally, A (address bus) and D (data bus) pins are set (+5 VDC). 12. After pressing and then releasing Reset button, on at least a few of A pins we can observe pulses. * Please refer to the picture in attachment - pin A9. 13. After pressing and then releasing Reset button, on at least a few of D pins we can observe pulses. * Please refer to two pictures in attachment - pin D12. * Please refer to two pictures in attachment - pins D12 and HALT. 14. The CPU is quite hot. It is possible to touch it for 7-10 seconds, but after this time the pain was too strong to keep it touching. *** GST MCU 15. There is GST MCU type C302183-001. There is 16 MHz square wave on CLK16 pin. There are 8 MHz on CLK8 pin, 4 MHz on CLK4, 2 MHz on CLK2, and 0,5 MHz on CLK0,5. 16. BERR pin is set (+5 VDC). I would be glad, if you could tell me what to check next in order to make my computer working. Thanks in advance for a reply. tr1x Ostatnio edytowany przez tr1x (Dzisiaj 14:50:36) A9.png 13.83 kb, nikt jeszcze nie pobierał tego pliku. D12(1).png 14.01 kb, nikt jeszcze nie pobierał tego pliku. D12(2).png 14.4 kb, nikt jeszcze nie pobierał tego pliku. D12_HALT(2).png 9.66 kb, nikt jeszcze nie pobierał tego pliku. D12_HALT.png 17.49 kb, nikt jeszcze nie pobierał tego pliku. HALT.png 14.19 kb, nikt jeszcze nie pobierał tego pliku. IMG_9823.jpg 727.91 kb, nikt jeszcze nie pobierał tego pliku. Tylko zalogowani mogą pobierać załączniki.
  12. Hey guys, I know that this poor horse has been beaten to death on the forums but i need some advice. I have an Atari 1040STe with 4mb memory upgrade. I have a spare LG 27" TV thats sits nicely next to my iMac. My plan is to use the TV for both low/medium and high res via din->scart and din->VGA for the Atari, as well as a secondary monitor for my iMac via HDMI. The problem is the quality of the picture of the Atari. When i view it via the Din->Scart cable in low or medium resolution the screen seems to jump every few seconds, apart from this the picture is good, however, this screen jumping makes playing games impossible When i view the atari in hi res via din->VGA, i get very slight constant flickering. When i plug the Atari into my cheap VGA monitor i don't get anywhere near as much flickering. Not sure if this may be a cause of the problem but, I should mention both the din->vga and din->scart cables have stereo audio breakouts as the rca audio out ports on the machine seem to be playing up (seems the output is way too hot and the volume doesn't match L + R, but i'm going to look into this once I've sorted the screen thing.) So to summarise; plug in via scart i get occasional screen jumping, and plug in via vga i get slight flickering. What do you guys reckon? Thanks so much!
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