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Found 14 results

  1. I've got a few Atari controller secrets to reveal which some of you may have never come upon. Here's the lowdown: 1) the Atari CX-22 Trakball has a desirable feature that the later-released black CX-80 Trakball doesn't have. In fact, there are other 2600-compatible trackballs that have this feature as well... 2) The combo paddle/joystick 2600 controllers made by Sears and Coleco are not as effective to play paddle games on a light sixer or heavy sixer unless you have a particular item to use with the controller. There are some people here who may have never known about this. 3) Omega Race is a two-button game requiring a special "Booster Grip" to properly play it. Some may not have that Booster Grip, but there is another way to play the game... and a controller from another gaming console is the key. 4) There's a particular mouse that can be used to play 2600 games, but there's a trick that you have to know in order to make it "active". I've got all this explained in today's presentation on my Wired-up Retro Ytube channel. Enjoy:
  2. Did Albert just silently release this in the AA store? I just found this lying around in the AA Shop and bought one: https://atariage.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1067
  3. I would like to use a USB trackball on PS1 games that support the Playstation Mouse (especially Atari Anniversary). I'm wondering if anyone knows if there is any type of adapter that would work for this? There seem to be adapters out there that are designed to allow the use of USB mouse and keyboard on FPS for the PS2, but since those games were likely not designed for the Playstation Mouse, I am doubtful that I'd get the same kind of accuracy and responsiveness on games designed for the Playstation Mouse, but perhaps I am wrong?
  4. I have developed an "upgrade" kit to allow playing 2600 trackball games with a 5200 Trak-Ball. The process just adds another cable to the controller and uses another "configuration cable" to link the original 15 pin cable with the new cable. Terminates in a 9 pin that plugs into a 2600 controller port. No permanent modifications are made to the trackball. Everything is 100% reversible. Works with the slate of 2600 games recently hacked to support actual trackball controllers. Following the success of one kit being installed by an end user, I'm just wondering if it's worth the effort to order in parts to make a few of these. PM me with inquiries.
  5. Hi, I am an A8 user since 1987 but using emulators as my real Atari is packed far away. Have been playing Star Raiders under Atari 800win which does a good job of this classic. Years ago, I attempted a project to convert a CX-80 trackball I got of ebay to convert to USB. After butchering three different mice to make the optical sensors work, I put the bits away and haven't tried since. I still want to play Star Raiders with a better controller, as wanting to improve my game with some acurate controls. One the CX-80 there was a switch to make it mimic a joystick if I remember correctly. Now, I know Star Raiders doesn't support a trackball officially, is there way of using a mouse, trackpad or touch pad with any A8 emuator? I know a thread a while back people wanted to patch or change Star Raiders, the game is perfect apart from supporting some better controls.
  6. Hey all, I recently got a Wico Trackball for the my TI and I was wondering what games are good for it. After doing a quick google search it doesn't seem like many people use it or at least write posts about it. I've only got to games at my house (I'm on vacation right now): TI Invaders and Parsec. I thought TI Invaders would be awful with the ball, but it actually makes the game shockingly more accurate (at least compared to the default controllers) I figured that Parsec would be amazing with the trackball given the full 2 dimensional movement (x direction and y direction) but it really isn't good. I can't move up and down fast enough in that game to dodge enemy fire. Any suggestions? I know centipede would be really fun, but apparently its pretty rare.
  7. Stella is looking to improve realistic trackball behavior on their 2600 emulator for the growing number of trackball hacks and I said I would look into getting them a CX80 in good working condition.
  8. Play Atari 2600/VCS Trak-Ball enabled games with your 5200 Trak-Ball controller. One-Trak adds functionality Switching between platforms is as simple as unplugging or plugging in a cable, outside of the controller. Plug into the configuration cable to play 2600 games, unplug the configuration cable and connect the original cable to the 5200. One-Trak is easy to install One-Trak requires no cutting, no soldering, no wiring, no drilling: your CX53 remains as Atari produced it. The installation is completely reversible. The most permanent change is a 1" square adhesive pad affixed inside the controller. Pick your protocol The configuration cable is currently available in two styles · Quadrature encoded: Gray code, compatible with ST mouse signals · Direction+Clock: same as CX22 trackball signals (Personally, I prefer the quadrature encoding as it lets you navigate the Harmony cartridge menu) $25.00 + shipping. (Currently shipping to U.S. addresses only) Available while supplies last. PM me if you're interested.
  9. Found an article within a PDF of the Status Newsletter on archive.org. It explained how to rewire a CX-22 Trackball for use as an ST-mouse for an A8-Diamond GOS based system or the ST. I have been using a mouse from Best Electronics (model CBM1) for quite some time and should have a backup. I made the modifications to my CX-22 as explained in the article and it worked the first time. Diamond has been configured to use STMOUSE2.DRV for the mouse driver and worked just as well with the modified trackball. Arnold, Blake, "Trackball to Mouse", Status Newsletter v7i4, 1988, Page 13-14. https://archive.org/details/Status_Atari_newsletter_1988-v7i4 The article is well written and contains all the information you'll need. I took pictures as I made the modifications in case I wanted to revert back to the trackball and to explain how I made them. The next six photos are of the track ball before modifications. Remove 4 screws. Notice the posts to the north and south of ball. The top has pins that are inserted in these and they are friction fit. Care should be taken so that these pins are not broken while pulling the top off. Wiring on Left side of unit Wiring Right side trigger. Ball removed. Separated parts. The wiring could be unplugged without damage and was put aside for safe keeping. Making the Mods. Since the case was apart, it was placed in the dishwasher for cleaning. The chips are all socketed , so they were removed and the pins were cleaned, then reinserted. The LM339 was set aside until after the soldering on the board was completed. When you look at the photos don't use the wire colors for reference. I happen to have a couple of old cords out of a Sega(?) or was it a Genesis( ?) joystick. (been a long time). I know the cords had 9 pin plugs and 9 wires. Both Blake and I recommend mapping the wire colors to the pins before you start soldering. I made the connections on the bottom of the board. I also reminded myself several times were the #1 pin of the chip was as the board was flipped over. This allowed the wires to be run safely under the board. The board was put back into place and the LM 339 chip reinserted. Holes were drilled through the button boards for the wires. Wires were then soldered directly to the boards. I've never had much luck with those push on connector thingies. Right button. The 5volt and ground wires were connected using the female ends of a couple of jumper wires. This way I didn't have to solder the wires directly to the power pins. Its an option I had sitting in my Arduino kit. The ball is in place and the wiring doesn't look like it will interfere with the rotational sensors. Time to put the top back and tighten the last 4 screws. The TEST The 130XE was booted up with Diamond and the Best Electronic's ST Mouse as usual. The mouse was unplugged and the trackball plugged in. The pointer moved as would be expected and the system responded to the left button presses, although sometimes rather sluggish. I can't remember ever having to use the right mouse button for Diamond GOS so it wasn't tested. (I'm not getting out the ST, so am assuming the right button will work.) While I had the trackball apart I considered replacing the spring caps with micro switches. I didn't want to take the time to figure out if there was enough room for a micro switch and put it off for another time. In use not every button click was registered and if I were going to make the trackball my mouse of choice this would have to be fixed.
  10. Hey there everyone! I've been contemplating getting a bartop size vertical arcade cabinet for a long time now, and I've finally decided that it's something I want to start saving up for. It might take me a few months to get the cash together, but in the meantime I'm hoping to get some recommendations for reputable custom arcade cabinet makers that could build me just what I'm looking for. I live in a fairly small apartment and don't have the tools, skills, or space to build something myself; so I'm looking to pay someone to build my machine for me. The specific details of what I'd like to have built are as follows: - Bartop size arcade cabinet - Modern vertical LED/LCD monitor behind a clear bezel - Joystick (red bat top) on the left side of the control panel, three buttons (LED lit) in the middle, trackball on the right side, and Atari cone style 1 & 2 player buttons on the far right. - Reproduction Centipede graphics for the backlit marquee, screen bezel, control panel, and side art - Cabinet fully painted to match the color scheme of an original full size Centipede arcade cabinet - Coin slot on the right side of the machine (with free play option available) - 60-in-1 JAMMA board installed Interestingly enough I already found almost exactly what I'm looking for on eBay, but the seller had placed the trackball in the middle of the control panel for left handed use; and they didn't seem to be interested in building another cabinet with the trackball positioned for right handed use. Everything else was exactly what I wanted though, so in lieu of that person not being interested in building another one I was wondering if anyone here could recommend me a reputable company or individual who could build me just what I'm looking for?
  11. I've been doing some research on Atari 2600 controllers recently, because of a project I'm starting in 2 months or so. And I have a few questions for you guys, that no doubt know a lot more than I do on the subject matter. 1) Let's start easy: the CX-50 Keyboard Controllers, the Star Raiders video touch pad and the Kid's Controller are practically the same thing, there's only external differences right? 2) The trackballs. I've seen 2 different ones, the CX-22 and the Pro-Line. And correct me if I'm wrong but, not counting hacks, there are no original 2600 games that support the trackballs in "trackball mode", right? They only work when the trackballs behave like joysticks, is that right? 3) This one's about Wico joysticks, the Command Control ones. They are high-quality controllers, I've heard, with metal base and stick, and internally they use leaf switches. I've seen how leaf switches work, and they seem very easy to repair, if they ever malfunction. So I'm asking Wico owners here: how good are these Joysticks? I think they look cool, and maybe I'll buy one (or two) in the future, but give me some feedback first. 4) I own a pair of Atari Flashback 3 Joysticks. They should work just like regular CX-40 Joysticks, right? 5) I've seen sites selling new reproductions of Atari joysticks. Is anyone making repro paddles out there? 6) This one is less important, but I'm curious: can you use joysticks to play Indy 500? Or does it only work with racing controllers? Well, that's all for now. Also, tell me if there's some other controller that I should check out, I like controllers
  12. I have just made an interface for the Atari trackball to the TI-99/4a. The Atari trackball works like a joystick that needs a +5 to power the sensors. it's essentially an upside down ball mouse. So what I did was create a standard Atari to Ti-99 joystick interface cable then on PIN 7 I attached a +5 from a battery for the Atari trackball sensors. believe it or not it works. Except, and this is the odd part I can't figure out, when the trackball is attached the keyboard display automatically goes into lower case. clicking the alpha lock does nothing and pressing shift will make the upper case letters appear but it will default back to lower case. also, you still have to turn off the alpha lock to enable 'up' on the trackball. this effect happens rather the +5 is attached or not. doesn't seem to effect the TI-99 adversely except throwing it into lower case. ideas?
  13. I just acquired my first 5200 track ball, and I have a few questions. When using it, it bites my fingers if I get them near the edge. There is a small gap between the cover and the lower half of the ball. Is this normal? You can see the gap towards the bottom of this photo. Also, when rolling the ball, it is quite noisy (as if rolling the ball is generating some kind of friction). Is this normal? The unit itself is unusual. I assumed it was a modded unit when I bought it (the seller didn't know), but after having a closer look at it, I am wondering if it may be something else? S/N is "001045 EP 183".
  14. I have a Slikstik Arcade Cabinet (new materials, put it together yourself like a bookshelf) with a fairly large control panel. I've had it for a long time, but never managed to get the controls to work properly. I was wondering if anybody had good suggestions on how to get the controls to work. Such things as trackballs, spinners, even joysticks. The problem with the trackball is that it seems to make a huge, squarish shape when you try to use it. The spinner seems too fast, like you can't increment one move at a time in Tempest, or seem to "fine tune" your movement. The joysticks seem very stiff, and you feel like you can't play like you would on a "normal" arcade machine. It seems hard to map the keyboard, and some buttons won't map so far. I have side pinball buttons that don't show up or change. Some solutions were to mess with settings. MacMame settings such as analog controls, general settings, and settings for the individual game. The OS mouse speed settings, (trackball), keyboard settings, etc. Another was to get a powered USB hub instead of one that just powers from USB, in case the cheap hub can't handle all those devices. I bought a powered USB hub, and messed with OS and MacMAME settings. The trackball moves the cursor a little faster now, and that is good, but you still can't make small circles, and the spinners seem worse. Does anybody know the default MAME analog control settings? I am using an old Intel MacMini with MacMame and I believe OSX 10.4. I tried updating to latest OS and couldn't get panel to work with new arcade emulators, so I actually switched back down to 10.4. I have a mac keyboard plugged in on one USB port, and a USB hub plugged into another port. All 4 ports in the hub are taken up by the arcade controls. I believe it is 1 wire for the trackball, 2 for 2 spinners, and the last one for an I-PAC. The OS says it doesn't recognize the mouse, and none is installed. However, the trackball still moves the cursor and the ball still lights up. ( I only use the trackball for a mouse, no actual mouse is connected ) Maybe there is some kind of keyboard mapping/mouse/cursor/controller conflict going on here. Maybe the computer is confused with what is doing what.
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