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Found 11 results

  1. I've had the VCS for several weeks, I've already purchased half a dozen games from the Atari (VCS) Store with no issue and even saved my card information. Well, last night I went to the Atari Store to purchase another game, I not only had to re-enter all my card info and zip code, but I received a transaction failure due to it not accepting my zip code! It kept displaying [N/A, zip code requires 5 digits and optional 4 digit extension]. I made several attempts on two different games and tried using 2 different credit (debit-the first used and saved before) cards which have plenty of money in their accounts. I tried restarting the console, and again on an attempt this morning. I even verified my zip code with my address on a bill, though I know it by heart and even tried adding the 4 digit extension on said bill with no difference. Has anyone else had this issue of late or at all?
  2. Zip Code Error - Workaround to purchase: When asked to enter your zip code first enter two (2) spaces and then your five (5) digit zip code. This should allow you to make your purchase as you normally would. Please let us know if you have any issues or if this does not work for you!
  3. Hi - This is my first attempt to troubleshoot any ST. Also I am a novice when it comes to electrical matters and I don’t know how to read a schematic so please go easy on me 😁 This 520ST came to me with a frozen power rocker switch (in the off position) and an original PSU that I measured showing the 5V pins were putting out 14V instead of 5. So bought and wired-up a new PSU and I replaced the rocker switch with a new one. When I fired it up for the first time I got a glorious desktop screen!!!! I was so excited!! I switched it off, plugged-in the mouse and switched it back on. Nothing. Removed mouse. Nothing and nothing ever since. I took power readings at the pad circled in red on the back of the PCB with and without the 520 power rocker switch on (see images below). Do my power readings seem normal? Is 30V on the two ground pins normal when on? For all my power measurements I had the black probe on the ‘COM’ terminal of my new PSU and the red probe on the individual pins on the back of the 520 PCB. The pins that I believe are the 7 pins of the power connector. Is my method of testing the power on these pins valid (black probe on the PSU ‘COM’ terminal)? ===== Picture of the PCB for identification. Shown with diagnostic cart inserted. When I got the one and only boot to a desktop I did not have the diag cart installed. I was just seeing if the diag cart made any difference. It does not. I believe the 7pins circled in red are for the power connection. These are the pins I read the voltages for. My multimeter black probe was on the ‘COM’ terminal of the PSU. My voltage readings on the pins from Left to Right with 520 switch both off and on. Do these readings look OK/normal? Assuming these voltage readings are OK and given the fact that my first power-on got me to a desktop and no screen image since… What are the recommended next troubleshooting steps? TIA Note - I detect no hot or even warm board components. No bulging or leaking caps.
  4. Hi - I just acquired the ICD FA-ST shown in the pictures below. I know they made these for both the Atari 8bit and the ST lines so I am not sure which system this one is for. Right now I do not get anything when I power it on. No lights, no fan, no sound from the drive. It looks like there is room and power for a second drive as well. 1) Does anyone have a manual for the FaST device? 2) Does anyone have schematics for this? 3) I expect there was/is some software on diskette to setup/config the FaST. Does anyone know of or have these? 4) The power supply fuse is good and the on/off switch is good. I don't know much about trouble shooting when it comes to power supplies. Any guidance on where to start would be very helpful. FYI - I did replace the 3V button battery with a known good one. Smaller in size but it should be a good substitute. Replacing it did not help (yet). FYI - Info on the HDD itself is found at this link: No obvious bulging caps. I tested the fuse and the on/off switch for continuity and they tested good. What do I check next? (please be specific as I am a newbie with power supplies)
  5. [UPDATE] - After formatting a diskette in this SF314 it is working better. I copied a diskette from A to B and I can read it in A. In fact, after formatting a diskette in the SF314 it is now reading diskettes it was not reading before!! Maybe it just needed some exercise!?! === original post follows === I have a new to me SF314. Many things are working in that it responds when I double-click on the ‘B’ Floppy desktop icon. However I get garbled data. I have tried two pwr supplies and two data cables. I have used on of those specially designed floppy disk head cleaning diskettes. Here is an image of the same diskette read fine on ‘A’ and garbled on ‘B’. I have never tried to repair one of the ST floppy drives before. Where do I begin in troubleshooting? TIA
  6. I have a new to me 800 that is in great condition overall. Video, keyboard, boots BASIC, plays Star Raiders and Centipede, etc. However, the Select and Option keys do not work. Where do I start troubleshooting? Thanks for ideas. (Start, Reset and all other keys work great)
  7. I have two VIC-20s sitting here. One is missing its VIAs, two is not. One will give a video signal but no screen. Two gives no video signal. Moving the VIC from one to two transfers the screen behavior. I have replaced the KERNEL ROM and 6502 in both with no joy, as well as moving the 6522s around between boards. Two's 6522s are different manufacturers and vintage thus I suspect one or both have been replaced. I have been down Ray's troubleshooting guide and the thought of going after the TTL logic chips is bothersome to say the least -- this amount of work may not pay off for my purposes. Has anyone ever seen bad 6522s causing the behavior of video giving signal and black screen, with no other apparent sign of life? I have an internal source for 6522s which I can get to fairly easily. These are the two-pin power variety and the power supply is giving out 9.5VAC. I have checked the fuse and various power points around the board to confirm power is not an issue.
  8. Hi guys! I dug out my 800XL from my mom's house this past week and hooked it up to my Plasma TV using one of these Atari to Composite cables: https://www.8bitclassics.com/Atari-800-XL-XE-5-Pin-DIN-S-Video-Cable.html?search=AXL-SVIDEO However I cannot get it to work. The 800XL power light comes on but the TV just says no signal. I tried with both composite (Yellow, Red, White) and S-Video connections on the cables, and also tried composite on another LCDTV in the house. I also have two of the same cable converters linked above and both had same results. Same thing for all tests, "no signal" on TV. I am not sure what to do next. Is it likely that there is an issue with the monitor out on the 800XL? Or is it just that my TV's cannot recognize the signal? Maybe I need a different converter? What steps should I take next? I appreciate your help 8-biters! Gabriel
  9. So, I went to go play my trusty Atari 2600, and discovered that she is displaying some very unusual behavior. For the record, this is a 4 switch light (CX-2600A REV 12). I have cleaned the carts and the slot, to no avail. I've googled, and googled, without any luck. Anything other than combat results in this:
  10. I hooked up my Atari today and video was full of static and has banded white dots. I'm not really sure how to explain it, so I made a video. The Atari is connected to the TV using a coax adapter from radio Shack (pictured below). I thought maybe the games were just dirty, so I cleaned all my cartridges and cartridge slot. Picture looks better but as you can see in video it didn't fix the problem. I'm not sure what else to try. I read somewhere on this forum about replacing a capacitor.. Can anyone tell if the white dots are due to a failed capacitor or something like that? Or is this being caused by my coax or adapter? Thanks everyone! http://youtu.be/K_n3QMxWVGI
  11. My faithful childhood Vectrex has started to give me display trouble. Nothing as serious as the dreaded white dot but still very annoying and distracting. I bet you Vectrex experts would know in a heartbeat what the problem is. Here is a short 2 minute video which shows exactly whats going on: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cz4AqY6lCFE&feature=youtu.be Im not an electronics man myself but I do have a couple on hand and would love to get this Vectrex running at 100% again. Thank you to anyone that can help.
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