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Found 34 results

  1. I've an Atari 400 that I had apart and late one night decided to install a UAV board. I then connected the power board, inserted the CPU and RAM cards, then powered on. No video signal. I checked over my wiring to figure out what I had done wrong, but the wiring was all correct. Then suddenly I realized something, with the sinking feeling as I would imagine someone might have when they hear the scraping of the belly of their airplane upon a gear up landing...I had installed the cards backwards! I know what direction they're supposed to go, but had a lapse of attention at some point. I quickly powered off, turned the cards around, and tried powering on. This time had a video signal, but a blank screen. All I can get now is a blank screen, or once in awhile, a green screen. I've checked power and signals everywhere I can think of, but everything appears to be good. I eventually figured out that all the ICs are good and it's not the power board. The problem is definitely a component on the main board. Power looks good at all cards and ICs (+5V, +12V, -5V), the frequencies are good, the O2 signal looks great at all appropriate locations, the CPU SYNC is going, address lines are all active, CAS and RAS are active on the RAM. I can't figure what where the problem is, but it's definitely one of the mainboard components. Anyone have any idea of what I might have fried that can cause this? I forgot to add, there's also no activity on the SIO. Fortunately, this was my own Atari I was working on.
  2. Hello everyone, I have a problem with my colecovision. It worked fine when I used it last week, but when I tried to play some pepper II the screen started messing up. I've attached a video. Does anyone know what causes this issue? It's not the RF cable. VID_20210215_224823.mp4
  3. Hi All, I’ve recently worked on an Atari 400 and 800xl and installed the new Sophia 2 chips with dvi connections. Both are outputting great video now. My 400 had some issues at first running cartridges but after a few tries and cleaning some carts off it worked. My 800xl is another story though. I can’t get a single cartridge to start. Ones that I already tested as working on the 400 do not work on the 800xl. I ran the self test and all items pass. Wondering how to test the cartridge slot itself. I did use some canned air to blow out the port as well as a little 99.8 isopropyl. Anyone have any thoughts to verify if the cartridge slot is working? Are there any continuity points I can check from the cartridge pins? Any suggestions appreciated. GabeShack
  4. I know this is a forum for high scores, but I'm having some considerable issues with my SMS and this is the only forum dedicated to it on here (that I can deduce) I made a youtube video detailing precisely how my SMS has been acting up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvNIXF1LjP4 I only bought my SMS a day ago so If something's up with the console itself, I can still try to return it. But if I just bought a couple bunk games I'd rather "Hang On" (get it?) to it. Thanks for even viewing this! Extra special double thanks if you can help me determine what might be the cause of these issues.
  5. Hi, having some trouble with my Intellivision. When you are playing a game (I’ll use Triple Action tank battle as an example), when you drive your tank to the top of the screen, a second tank appears at the bottom. Both turn and shoot at the same time and both can kill the other tank by shooting it. Any ideas would be appreciated. thanks, Marc
  6. I recently managed to snag an Atari 8-Bit lot at an estate sale. I mostly bought it for the accessories it came with (since I already have an 800), but it also came with a 130XE. However, when I turn it on, it boots to the self-test. I pulled it apart and noticed the 320k upgrade had been done to it (according to a sharpie label on the RF shield, it was done in July, 1987). How do I interpret the memory test? Is there any set of steps I should take to try and fix this? I've attached pictures of the mod and the memory test screen (the white box one being tested in the photo passed).
  7. So I had problems with my 2600 so I decided to try my hand at the AV Mod. I did all the work, it doesn't look great but I hoped it would work, but it didn't. Is anyone able to see what I did wrong and if I can fix it? https://imgur.com/a/xY43JRJ
  8. whenever i load up night driver, the car drives extremely fast. faster than it normally should. and when a car comes by, i don't hear the honking sound. is it a problem with the potentiometers? please, someone help me.
  9. Hey all, I recently purchased a Philips VG8020/00 MSX Home Computer. I'm having some trouble getting a decent video signal out of the thing. When I hook it up to my VCR/DVD Combo via the RF out and convert the signal into composite, I get a glitchy screen, jumping from left to right, going from color to black and white. However, the MSX boot up text is present, and when I press keys on the keyboard, they do get added to the screen. I used the automatic tuning options on my VCR/DVD combo, but it sadly does not improve the quality. I also tried connecting a Sega Mega Drive RGB connector to the Monitor out on the computer, but that didn't do anything apart from making some pop noises. I might have to get a different cable to test that out. I also know for sure that my set-up isn't the problem; I've connected other coaxial game-consoles the same way (Atari 2600, Videopac G7000) and they all work. The unit looks fine and all (no mayor external damage). What I did notice though, was some noises inside the machine when I held it sideways; there could be some dirt in there. Also, some buttons get stuck from time to time (especially the directional buttons). I'll open it up and give it a good clean one of these days. Has anyone here experienced similar problems and got them solved? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! I hope the damage (if it has any) is not to severe; would be awesome to get it up and running again! Thanks!
  10. Hey guys! So I recently acquired an Atari Jaguar for my collection. A buddy of mine had one collecting dust and hooked me up. However, he did not have any cables or games, just the console itself and a controller. The first thing I do is look up to see if any accessories I own will be compatible with the Jaguar. I read that a Genesis model 1 power brick will work and an NES RF switch will work. Cool, I got those. I take the console home and plug it in using the Genesis model 1 power brick. The system will not power on. After doing some searching I find out the console won't power on unless a game is inserted. Okay, so I stop at my local retro gaming shop and grab the cheapest game they had, which was Cybermorph (go figure) for $5. I take it home, pop it in the Jaguar and it still won't power on. I rock the cart around to see if it has problems making contact and still no luck. I even cleaned the pins on the cartridge slot and the game itself. No luck. I began searching online again and saw some common problems with the main board. I opened the console up and checked it out. None of the resistors or capacitors look blown or damaged. The U38 chip that commonly blows looks perfect and has no discoloration. The only thing I noticed was a little rust on the metal box in the top left corner. I'm baffled as to why it isn't working. So now I'm at three possible reasons why this console isn't working. 1. They sold me a bad copy of Cybermorph. I believe they test all of their games prior to selling though, but this is still possible. 2. The Genesis model 1 power brick does NOT power the Jaguar and I was given bad information. 3. The main board is indeed screwed and I'm just not seeing it. Any ideas as to what could be causing this Jaguar to not power on? Do I need an RF switch hooked up too before it'll kick on? Anything else I should try? I really do not want to junk this thing because I've never played one and wanted it for my collection for many years, but I don't want to pump a bunch of money into it if the console is bricked and it's a lost cause. I included a link to some images on IMGUR so you guys could check out the board on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! http://imgur.com/a/2isOv
  11. I've got a 7800 that was giving me audio and color problems at first with 7800 games. I was able to work it out with some cleaning and re-flowing of the color adjustment potentiometers, as well as giving the game slot a good clean and adjustment. It plays 7800 games with great color and sound. Now I'm having issues with 2600 games. They start up, and display on-screen, even allowing me to start a game and play. The problem is some vertical lines on the screen and a garbled mess. It's not just the video signal though, the lines and walls that are displayed affect gameplay as well. What I have done: re-flowed solder points for the color adjustment potentiometers marked the original setting and twisted the color adjustment potentiometers to break up any corrosion. adjusted the RF modulator pot cleaned the cart slot pins and bent them out a hair for better contact I also tried adjusting the lower 2600 color wheel with no progress (pot will change the color but not alleviate problem) Here are some pics of the problem I'm having. Any input on what to try would be greatly appreciated! Barnstorming Pac-Man
  12. Hello everyone! I've got a question about an Atari 5200 I recently picked up on craigslist. It's a 4-port model and came with all of the appropriate cords and stuff. I took it home and hooked it up and I could not get it to send a signal to the television. Curiously, the red light does come on the console itself, so I believe it is getting power, but the television does not display a signal at all. I tried on a couple of different TVs and got the same results. Wiggling the cord doesn't help either. I read on another forum thread here that the switchbox itself makes a "clicking sound" when you power up the console. However, I didn't hear any sound when I powered mine up. It does, however, allow another console to pass through it via the antennae plug in, and does display that video signal. Anyone have any idea what it could be? I was assured by the previous owner that the console worked the last time he plugged it in. If it is indeed the switchbox, does anyone have a homemade one that I can buy from them? My solderng skills are not up to par with creating one from scratch. Thanks and I look forward to your responses!
  13. I just bought a used Atari 2600 system. It only came with one game, so I cannot troubleshoot the game itself being defective. I also cannot seem to find a relevant thread that has the same issues. I have cleaned all the contacts and switching the power on normally results in a diagonal white line that scrolls across the screen. Every once and a while I get colored bars (assuming something altered PF0-PF2 or the player sprites.) Sometimes I get a blank black screen, so it is sending a signal to the TV. Very rarely do I get a screen that could almost look like Combat playfield (but it definitely isn’t). Also, should Combat be missing a trace on the front (Pin 8/Pin 5? Or maybe the backside is pins 1-12, so pin17/pin20). What is the next thing to troubleshoot with these symptoms? Do I have a bad TIA or RIOT? Do I need to do a recap sooner rather than later to prevent any exploding capacitors?
  14. Hi All... So, I finally got a new power supply to try hooking up the CX2600A that I bought at a garage sale almost 20 years ago and have been carrying around from apartment to apartment... The good news - it basically works! The bad news - it has a really nasty "beat" that's causing audio and video trouble. I put a video up of it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxAIub4ymRA I don't think it's the power supply, I just bought a brandy-new one from atariguide.com and the actual hookup to the TV is via one of those RF TV coaxial F plug female adapters. So both of those should be good. It happens regardless of the cartridge I put in, and whether I use channel 2 or 3. The games seem to run fine (at least, for as long as I can stand to play them with the terrible noise.) Any suggestions? I've got a soldering iron and I'm not afraid to use it! Just need a little guidance. Thanks! -Chester
  15. I recently bought a new atari 2600. It worked fine at first however I would occasionally have to jiggle the rf box in order to receive better video quality. A day or two later I turn on the atari and the sound was not playing. I tried buying a new coax adapter, but they didn't have the rca female to coax male so instead I bought an rca female to coax female and a coax male to cook male. I connected them together and the video worked, but the sound still does not play. I What is the problem and is it fixable? If so, then how?
  16. I've got 4 Y (or Wye) adapters. They have the standard 9 pin arrangement, and have the 2 branches are all pins and one end is all holes. If I remember right form owning Colecovision in my youth, there were Colecovision adapters which let you plug in an Atari 2600 controller for the joystick and one button and a Colecovision joystick for the keypad. This let you use any 2600 bat stick (which was better than the short, flat 'shroom top of a standard Coleco stick) with any one button games for Colecovision. (The only reason I never got one was because I have a solution which worked for every game I had and still have EXCEPT QBert's Qubes and The Activision Decathlon, that is the Super Action Controller.) Over the years, I went thrift shopping and found on separate occasions, a Gemini, a Gemini Instruction Book, and 4 different Y adapters of 9 pin arrangements. I read through the Gemini Instruction manual, and found out about the Wye Adapter (this was before I was looking for Y adapters) and that got me thinking, how do I tell the difference in the wild between the 2? Some one told me of pin testing, but I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do it. I've got a couple of theories,but I want to make sure none of them ruin my controllers systems or adapters, because the ow of best-electronics-ca.com the repairers of Atari equipment, says be care not to do anything that will short out my equipment due to the 5 Volt connection. If I can plug 2 joysticks in in either a 2600 or Colecoviison (a little help on which is safer?) and if both joysticks and buttons activate the character, then it's the first type. I can't think of a definitive test for the other except if only 1 joystick moves the character in the above test, then it's. Or maybe it's a paddle game fire test, like Steeplechase or Party Mix, something where you can test 2 independent fire buttons on 1A and 1B, As well as 2A and 2B The things I don't have for my gemini are joysticks, RF switchbox, and power cord. First I know that ANY controller made for the 2600 will work on a Gemini, so that won't be a hard test. Also I know standard pre-NES RF switchbox or an RF to RCA adapter on that useless analog RF plug on a VCR and a standard single RCA cable would do it for any RF system with a Single RCA hole out. But about power, I don't know if a 2600 JR power adapter would work with it, or if I have to get a "regular" 2600 cord, or even a special Gemini Cord. Finally will using Track&Field controller on the Colecovision for The Activision Decathlon ruin your system? I've had temporary problems with it, but got cured when I remove it. Will it work with Carnival? (I assume left button equals left press, and right button equals right press, and there's no up and down and only 1 fire button in Carnival.) Although not technically Y adapters because there's only 2 branches, not 3, does anyone know where I can get a lefty adapter for either the 2600 stick, or the 7800 pad (such an adapter would invert up and down as well as left and right. There might have to be a button swapping adapter for 7800 games where the concept of left and right are important than main and secondary) or an Atari-joystick-to-Astrocade system adapter, or an Astrocade-joystick-to-Atari-system adapter in either Joystick (easy) or Paddle (much harder engineering-wise) mode?,
  17. this morning, i turned on my atari 2600 jr and played some night rider. and then i went to king of trade to get more atari games. but when i loaded donkey kong..... it wasn't properly tuned! *dun dun duuuuuuun* now, i watched a video on how to fix this a few days ago and it requires a "hex" screwdriver to properly tune it. so i tried doing that. and after HOURS og tinkering with the console and the lcd tv i have in my RV, i STILL can't get the static and hissing to go away. either slenderman's out to get me, or i have some hardware problems.
  18. Friends, I'm a long-time lurker and haven't had to post anything, because these forums are filled with good information that helped me troubleshoot just about everything for my light-sixer VCS. I have run into a problem that I cannot seem to solve on my own, nor can I find any similar problems on the interwebs. I recently bought a copy of this version of Bowling. When I first plugged it in, I got screeching sound and scrambled visuals. I cleaned the contacts real well, let the alcohol dry, plugged it back in and it was fine. A couple days later, I wanted to play it again and the screen was black and white dots. The bowler, alley, score, and pins are all visible, but the picture was awful. It improves 100% when I enable black and white mode, but c'mon, I want color! The other day, I opened the cartridge up completely and tried to really scrub the copper contacts, but I got the same result. Every other VCS cartridge I own displays full color on this console, I know that it's just this one cartridge. I'm out of troubleshooting ideas. Any of you fine folks have any ideas of what I should try next? Thanks! Bryan
  19. I have a vader model, I've replaced the RIOT chip, the 4.7uf caps, the 2200uf cap, and the voltage regulator. Once I got it running again I noticed the video was fuzzy. I decided to do an A/V mod and picked up this kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-2600-7800-Composite-Video-Mod-Upgrade-Kit-DIY/303092047733?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Side note: as others have mentioned in other forums about the a/v mod the video was dark, after removing one of the resistors from the mod circuit that solved that issue. The picture, however, is still fuzzy. I've uploaded a video showing what I mean: https://youtu.be/UXzVRivc258 Not sure where to look next, any suggestions? I have tried multiple composite cables and televisions as well so I'm pretty sure it's an issue on the board itself.
  20. I have an 800XL that does not respond to keyboard inputs for ESC, and the 1-6 keys. I thought I had a bad mylar but I tried two different mylars and a mechanical keyboard. When I used the mylars and the keyboard on a different computer, everything worked as it should. Where do I start my search for the problem?
  21. Hey guys. I've seen a lot of good help on this forum that I've used to help me diagnose my Atari 2600 4-switch that has not worked ever since I tried to install a widely used composite mod. (Kit Link Here) I installed it using an instructable (Instructable Link Here) I followed all instructions including removing q202, r209, r222, and c205, aaaaand... nothing it didn't work. (note: when I say nothing, I mean the TV says no signal.) I suspected bad connections but that wasn't it. I tried re-soldering the old components and that did something for a while but then it stopped. Next I thought that it wasn't getting enough power so I checked the power supply and 5v reg. Both were just fine except the 5v Reg had 2 of it's pins crossed. After uncrossing them I got some video for about two seconds and then it quit. (see attached video) I thought it was the chips now so I replaced all 3 (TIA, RIOT, and CPU) and this put me back to the same old no signal screen. I tried the old chips on a working system (w/o composite mod) and they gave a black screen. Not sure what to do at this point. Nothing is abnormally hot. Maybe my somewhat noob soldering skills maybe be a problem Cheers, kalgran Glitching.mp4
  22. Recently I had acquired a Colecovision, and hadn't gotten around to plugging it in because I had no games. Once I got some games and tried to play, the CV's RF output had a green tint, and looked as if I was playing on a GameBoy screen. There was no color, and all the graphics were just various shades of green! I tried to reflow solder on the RF board to no avail, de-soldered and checked the RF board and the components underneath (no difference), cleaned the power switch (which did not work) and even tried poking around the graphics chip and saw absolutely no difference in color whatsoever. I'm at wits end trying to figure out what is wrong with this CV. Attached below are a couple of pictures from the system on my Trinitron TV. This also came up on a flat screen TV as well. Any ideas?
  23. I booted up my Atari 2600 JR the other day, and I found that both controller ports were unresponsive to any input from the paddles or joystick. I popped it open and took a peek at the board, and there’s no visible damage. I’m using the attached schematic and a multimeter to try and find the issue. I’ve tested C20 and L3 but they both work fine. I suck at reading schematics. What components should I be focussing on to test?
  24. I have an Atari 800 with a keyboard that has 8 or 9 non-working keys. I have read on several threads about having to repair the mylar layer so I took everything apart and attempted the separation of PCB from key frame, but the PCB did NOT want to come off. I applied enough force that I feared cracking the edges of the PCB so I gave up. It was like the PCB was glued or soldered in place. While it was apart I cleaned all the card edge contacts and reseated all the boards (I did not reseat the ICs). So then I reassembled everything including the case, added a small shot of De-Oxit into a few non-working keys. That did not help so far. Further reading shows that there were several different makers. I did not know that while I had it open, or I would have written down the name from the board. I don't remember it. Are there other variants that are not mylar based? And if so, what would be best? Just the repeated key activations? I'll describe what I remember: - The attached ribbon cable was fairly thick and multicolored with red-brown female connector. - 9 attachment screws, could not find one under the tape area. However, removal of the screws did NOT loosen the PCB in the slightest. - Heavy grey plastic frame - keyboard unit as a whole was very heavy and solid. My next steps would probably be to spray under each non-working key with deoxit (I only did 2 so far), exercise them for a long(er) time, let it dry and retest. Should I open it back up and get the name of the board? Any other suggestions are welcome. thank you!
  25. Hello. I just picked up a VIC-20 from a thrift store for $11. It has the RF and the AC adaptor. The light powers on, but when I hook it up to my small CRT TV, there's nothing. I tried channel 3 and 4, but it's just a blank screen. Now this may be a stupid question, and I have almost no working knowledge of this stuff, but since it is a computer I assume it will power on without any cartridges or anything plugged in. Am I correct with this assumption, or do I need to plug something in to fire it up? And if not what are some basic things I could do to troubleshoot? I have a Genesis model 1 A/V cable and an RF switch for model 2, is there anything I can do with those? Pardon my ignorance on the subject and thank you in advance!
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