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Found 24 results

  1. Friends, I'm a long-time lurker and haven't had to post anything, because these forums are filled with good information that helped me troubleshoot just about everything for my light-sixer VCS. I have run into a problem that I cannot seem to solve on my own, nor can I find any similar problems on the interwebs. I recently bought a copy of this version of Bowling. When I first plugged it in, I got screeching sound and scrambled visuals. I cleaned the contacts real well, let the alcohol dry, plugged it back in and it was fine. A couple days later, I wanted to play it again and the screen was black and white dots. The bowler, alley, score, and pins are all visible, but the picture was awful. It improves 100% when I enable black and white mode, but c'mon, I want color! The other day, I opened the cartridge up completely and tried to really scrub the copper contacts, but I got the same result. Every other VCS cartridge I own displays full color on this console, I know that it's just this one cartridge. I'm out of troubleshooting ideas. Any of you fine folks have any ideas of what I should try next? Thanks! Bryan
  2. I booted up my Atari 2600 JR the other day, and I found that both controller ports were unresponsive to any input from the paddles or joystick. I popped it open and took a peek at the board, and there’s no visible damage. I’m using the attached schematic and a multimeter to try and find the issue. I’ve tested C20 and L3 but they both work fine. I suck at reading schematics. What components should I be focussing on to test?
  3. Well, I'm diving back into real TI hardware and unfortunately my luck with it is like with nearly everything else - if it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all! Anyway, I'm not here to pity myself, but would like to know what the issue is with one of the TI-99/4A's I recently picked up in as-is condition. I've attached a picture of the boot screen which shows a lot of garbage and obviously isn't working properly. Is this a video RAM problem, the display chip, or something else? Thankfully I did get a hold of one working 4A (the 4 also has problems - it powers on but has nothing but snow on the screen and a weird high pitched static / white noise going on so I don't know what's wrong with it), a speech synthesizer, and a bunch of carts including a few rare ones. Of course, it's the carts only - no boxes or manuals, but I'm still pretty happy with what I've picked up so far, along with my notations for my own reference. # in parentheses is how many I have of each if more than one: Adventure - TI (3)(cartridge only) Alpiner - TI (3)(speech) Buck Rogers: Planet of Zoom - TI (speech) BurgerTime - TI (flaky) Car Wars - TI Congo Bongo - TI Diagnostic - TI Disk Manager 2 - TI (4) Editor/Assembler - TI (3)(requires 32K)(cartridge only) Jawbreaker II - TI M*A*S*H - TI (speech) Mini Memory - TI (3) MunchMan - TI (2) Parsec - TI (speech) Return To Pirate's Isle - TI Speech Editor - TI Star Trek: Strategic Operations Simulator - TI (speech) Super Demon Attack - TI Terminal Emulator 2 - TI (6) TI Extended BASIC - TI (5) TI Invaders - TI TI WRITER Word Processor - TI (cartridge only) Tombstone City - TI Tunnels of Doom - TI (cartridge only) Ambulance - Funware Defender - Atarisoft Disk Fixer V2.1 - Navarone (requires 32K) Frogger - Parker Brothers Jungle Hunt - Atarisoft Micro Pinball II - DataBioTics Miner 2049er - Tigervision (2) Pac-Man - Atarisoft (flaky) PDM-99 (Peripheral Diagnostic Module) - CorComp Pole Position - Atarisoft Speed Reading A - Navarone (flaky) Super Extended BASIC - ? Wordwriter - DataBioTics Could have been better, but overall, I'm glad that I got at least one working machine with which to start over. I'll have to look over the threads here to see what the best path forward would be for getting 32K RAM added, as well as storage.
  4. I have a vader model, I've replaced the RIOT chip, the 4.7uf caps, the 2200uf cap, and the voltage regulator. Once I got it running again I noticed the video was fuzzy. I decided to do an A/V mod and picked up this kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-2600-7800-Composite-Video-Mod-Upgrade-Kit-DIY/303092047733?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Side note: as others have mentioned in other forums about the a/v mod the video was dark, after removing one of the resistors from the mod circuit that solved that issue. The picture, however, is still fuzzy. I've uploaded a video showing what I mean: https://youtu.be/UXzVRivc258 Not sure where to look next, any suggestions? I have tried multiple composite cables and televisions as well so I'm pretty sure it's an issue on the board itself.
  5. Hello, So first a bit of a disclaimer - I am a bit of a noob when it comes to electronics repair et all - my soldering is crap, and I am definitely learning this stuff as I go along - so please pardon what I am certain is going to be apparent ignorance. I have a 2600 jr rev E which is displaying poor colors (screen appears mostly greyscalish/monochromatic with some yellow/green tinting on the sprites. I tried adjusting the color pot, which you can tell is affecting the underlying colors but onscreen the result is just changing the grey levels so the screen still remains mostly monochromatic. Adjusted the RF pot to no effect either. Low hanging fruit (IE assumption on my part) seemed like it might be a bad cap, so I purchased a recap kit from console5 for the JR. Replaced the caps (polarity on the caps is correct) Turned the machine back on, colors were perfect for 1 second, and then it reverted to the same symptoms, only this time with audio distortion as well. Ordering ESR meter from amazon to check caps, but while I wait the two days for prime to deliver, I would love to get the communities input. 1) What should I be checking to troubleshoot this? 2) I have another 2600 jr that works (I haven't opened it yet so not sure what rev the board is) - so I could desolder and swap TIA if that's appropriate (my inclination is to socket the chips as well, my board has all three chips soldered to board - so if there is room, I think I will socket them) 3) This is probably a really dumb question - but I am curious all the same, the Jr cap kits comes with new caps for C20, C26, C27, C29, C37 c26 is obviosuly the big cap @ 2200uF 16v the other four c20, c27, c29, c37 are listed @ 4.7uF 35v in the console5 wiki (https://console5.com/wiki/Atari_2600) That said the kit from console5 only comes with 3 replacement caps instead of four. My particular revision lacks c29 so 3 caps were fine, but are there revisions which have all four caps on them? Or does each board revision have only a combination of three of those four caps? . Thanks Xamfear
  6. I got my old Intellivision II out of the garage and decided to hook it up again. It's been unused for about 20 years. When I turn on the Intellivision II, the power light comes on, but I just get static on the TV. I've tried both Channel 3 and Channel 4. I've tried two different cables, two different "Game / TV" boxes, and two different 300-Ohm-to-75-Ohm converters, but none of it made any difference. Any recommendations on the next step in troubleshooting this problem? For no particularly good reason, I'm wondering if the problem is the RF modulator. (My only real justification for thinking this is that the output jack on the RF modulator is bent at a bit of an angle.) So I'm thinking about getting an AV mod and seeing if that fixes the problem. Is that a good next step, or is there something else I should try first? Thanks!
  7. Hey guys. I've seen a lot of good help on this forum that I've used to help me diagnose my Atari 2600 4-switch that has not worked ever since I tried to install a widely used composite mod. (Kit Link Here) I installed it using an instructable (Instructable Link Here) I followed all instructions including removing q202, r209, r222, and c205, aaaaand... nothing it didn't work. (note: when I say nothing, I mean the TV says no signal.) I suspected bad connections but that wasn't it. I tried re-soldering the old components and that did something for a while but then it stopped. Next I thought that it wasn't getting enough power so I checked the power supply and 5v reg. Both were just fine except the 5v Reg had 2 of it's pins crossed. After uncrossing them I got some video for about two seconds and then it quit. (see attached video) I thought it was the chips now so I replaced all 3 (TIA, RIOT, and CPU) and this put me back to the same old no signal screen. I tried the old chips on a working system (w/o composite mod) and they gave a black screen. Not sure what to do at this point. Nothing is abnormally hot. Maybe my somewhat noob soldering skills maybe be a problem Cheers, kalgran Glitching.mp4
  8. whenever i load up night driver, the car drives extremely fast. faster than it normally should. and when a car comes by, i don't hear the honking sound. is it a problem with the potentiometers? please, someone help me.
  9. I know this is a forum for high scores, but I'm having some considerable issues with my SMS and this is the only forum dedicated to it on here (that I can deduce) I made a youtube video detailing precisely how my SMS has been acting up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvNIXF1LjP4 I only bought my SMS a day ago so If something's up with the console itself, I can still try to return it. But if I just bought a couple bunk games I'd rather "Hang On" (get it?) to it. Thanks for even viewing this! Extra special double thanks if you can help me determine what might be the cause of these issues.
  10. Hey all, I recently purchased a Philips VG8020/00 MSX Home Computer. I'm having some trouble getting a decent video signal out of the thing. When I hook it up to my VCR/DVD Combo via the RF out and convert the signal into composite, I get a glitchy screen, jumping from left to right, going from color to black and white. However, the MSX boot up text is present, and when I press keys on the keyboard, they do get added to the screen. I used the automatic tuning options on my VCR/DVD combo, but it sadly does not improve the quality. I also tried connecting a Sega Mega Drive RGB connector to the Monitor out on the computer, but that didn't do anything apart from making some pop noises. I might have to get a different cable to test that out. I also know for sure that my set-up isn't the problem; I've connected other coaxial game-consoles the same way (Atari 2600, Videopac G7000) and they all work. The unit looks fine and all (no mayor external damage). What I did notice though, was some noises inside the machine when I held it sideways; there could be some dirt in there. Also, some buttons get stuck from time to time (especially the directional buttons). I'll open it up and give it a good clean one of these days. Has anyone here experienced similar problems and got them solved? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! I hope the damage (if it has any) is not to severe; would be awesome to get it up and running again! Thanks!
  11. Hey guys! So I recently acquired an Atari Jaguar for my collection. A buddy of mine had one collecting dust and hooked me up. However, he did not have any cables or games, just the console itself and a controller. The first thing I do is look up to see if any accessories I own will be compatible with the Jaguar. I read that a Genesis model 1 power brick will work and an NES RF switch will work. Cool, I got those. I take the console home and plug it in using the Genesis model 1 power brick. The system will not power on. After doing some searching I find out the console won't power on unless a game is inserted. Okay, so I stop at my local retro gaming shop and grab the cheapest game they had, which was Cybermorph (go figure) for $5. I take it home, pop it in the Jaguar and it still won't power on. I rock the cart around to see if it has problems making contact and still no luck. I even cleaned the pins on the cartridge slot and the game itself. No luck. I began searching online again and saw some common problems with the main board. I opened the console up and checked it out. None of the resistors or capacitors look blown or damaged. The U38 chip that commonly blows looks perfect and has no discoloration. The only thing I noticed was a little rust on the metal box in the top left corner. I'm baffled as to why it isn't working. So now I'm at three possible reasons why this console isn't working. 1. They sold me a bad copy of Cybermorph. I believe they test all of their games prior to selling though, but this is still possible. 2. The Genesis model 1 power brick does NOT power the Jaguar and I was given bad information. 3. The main board is indeed screwed and I'm just not seeing it. Any ideas as to what could be causing this Jaguar to not power on? Do I need an RF switch hooked up too before it'll kick on? Anything else I should try? I really do not want to junk this thing because I've never played one and wanted it for my collection for many years, but I don't want to pump a bunch of money into it if the console is bricked and it's a lost cause. I included a link to some images on IMGUR so you guys could check out the board on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! http://imgur.com/a/2isOv
  12. Hello everyone! I've got a question about an Atari 5200 I recently picked up on craigslist. It's a 4-port model and came with all of the appropriate cords and stuff. I took it home and hooked it up and I could not get it to send a signal to the television. Curiously, the red light does come on the console itself, so I believe it is getting power, but the television does not display a signal at all. I tried on a couple of different TVs and got the same results. Wiggling the cord doesn't help either. I read on another forum thread here that the switchbox itself makes a "clicking sound" when you power up the console. However, I didn't hear any sound when I powered mine up. It does, however, allow another console to pass through it via the antennae plug in, and does display that video signal. Anyone have any idea what it could be? I was assured by the previous owner that the console worked the last time he plugged it in. If it is indeed the switchbox, does anyone have a homemade one that I can buy from them? My solderng skills are not up to par with creating one from scratch. Thanks and I look forward to your responses!
  13. I've got a 7800 that was giving me audio and color problems at first with 7800 games. I was able to work it out with some cleaning and re-flowing of the color adjustment potentiometers, as well as giving the game slot a good clean and adjustment. It plays 7800 games with great color and sound. Now I'm having issues with 2600 games. They start up, and display on-screen, even allowing me to start a game and play. The problem is some vertical lines on the screen and a garbled mess. It's not just the video signal though, the lines and walls that are displayed affect gameplay as well. What I have done: re-flowed solder points for the color adjustment potentiometers marked the original setting and twisted the color adjustment potentiometers to break up any corrosion. adjusted the RF modulator pot cleaned the cart slot pins and bent them out a hair for better contact I also tried adjusting the lower 2600 color wheel with no progress (pot will change the color but not alleviate problem) Here are some pics of the problem I'm having. Any input on what to try would be greatly appreciated! Barnstorming Pac-Man
  14. I've got 4 Y (or Wye) adapters. They have the standard 9 pin arrangement, and have the 2 branches are all pins and one end is all holes. If I remember right form owning Colecovision in my youth, there were Colecovision adapters which let you plug in an Atari 2600 controller for the joystick and one button and a Colecovision joystick for the keypad. This let you use any 2600 bat stick (which was better than the short, flat 'shroom top of a standard Coleco stick) with any one button games for Colecovision. (The only reason I never got one was because I have a solution which worked for every game I had and still have EXCEPT QBert's Qubes and The Activision Decathlon, that is the Super Action Controller.) Over the years, I went thrift shopping and found on separate occasions, a Gemini, a Gemini Instruction Book, and 4 different Y adapters of 9 pin arrangements. I read through the Gemini Instruction manual, and found out about the Wye Adapter (this was before I was looking for Y adapters) and that got me thinking, how do I tell the difference in the wild between the 2? Some one told me of pin testing, but I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do it. I've got a couple of theories,but I want to make sure none of them ruin my controllers systems or adapters, because the ow of best-electronics-ca.com the repairers of Atari equipment, says be care not to do anything that will short out my equipment due to the 5 Volt connection. If I can plug 2 joysticks in in either a 2600 or Colecoviison (a little help on which is safer?) and if both joysticks and buttons activate the character, then it's the first type. I can't think of a definitive test for the other except if only 1 joystick moves the character in the above test, then it's. Or maybe it's a paddle game fire test, like Steeplechase or Party Mix, something where you can test 2 independent fire buttons on 1A and 1B, As well as 2A and 2B The things I don't have for my gemini are joysticks, RF switchbox, and power cord. First I know that ANY controller made for the 2600 will work on a Gemini, so that won't be a hard test. Also I know standard pre-NES RF switchbox or an RF to RCA adapter on that useless analog RF plug on a VCR and a standard single RCA cable would do it for any RF system with a Single RCA hole out. But about power, I don't know if a 2600 JR power adapter would work with it, or if I have to get a "regular" 2600 cord, or even a special Gemini Cord. Finally will using Track&Field controller on the Colecovision for The Activision Decathlon ruin your system? I've had temporary problems with it, but got cured when I remove it. Will it work with Carnival? (I assume left button equals left press, and right button equals right press, and there's no up and down and only 1 fire button in Carnival.) Although not technically Y adapters because there's only 2 branches, not 3, does anyone know where I can get a lefty adapter for either the 2600 stick, or the 7800 pad (such an adapter would invert up and down as well as left and right. There might have to be a button swapping adapter for 7800 games where the concept of left and right are important than main and secondary) or an Atari-joystick-to-Astrocade system adapter, or an Astrocade-joystick-to-Atari-system adapter in either Joystick (easy) or Paddle (much harder engineering-wise) mode?,
  15. this morning, i turned on my atari 2600 jr and played some night rider. and then i went to king of trade to get more atari games. but when i loaded donkey kong..... it wasn't properly tuned! *dun dun duuuuuuun* now, i watched a video on how to fix this a few days ago and it requires a "hex" screwdriver to properly tune it. so i tried doing that. and after HOURS og tinkering with the console and the lcd tv i have in my RV, i STILL can't get the static and hissing to go away. either slenderman's out to get me, or i have some hardware problems.
  16. I recently bought a new atari 2600. It worked fine at first however I would occasionally have to jiggle the rf box in order to receive better video quality. A day or two later I turn on the atari and the sound was not playing. I tried buying a new coax adapter, but they didn't have the rca female to coax male so instead I bought an rca female to coax female and a coax male to cook male. I connected them together and the video worked, but the sound still does not play. I What is the problem and is it fixable? If so, then how?
  17. Hi All... So, I finally got a new power supply to try hooking up the CX2600A that I bought at a garage sale almost 20 years ago and have been carrying around from apartment to apartment... The good news - it basically works! The bad news - it has a really nasty "beat" that's causing audio and video trouble. I put a video up of it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxAIub4ymRA I don't think it's the power supply, I just bought a brandy-new one from atariguide.com and the actual hookup to the TV is via one of those RF TV coaxial F plug female adapters. So both of those should be good. It happens regardless of the cartridge I put in, and whether I use channel 2 or 3. The games seem to run fine (at least, for as long as I can stand to play them with the terrible noise.) Any suggestions? I've got a soldering iron and I'm not afraid to use it! Just need a little guidance. Thanks! -Chester
  18. Recently I had acquired a Colecovision, and hadn't gotten around to plugging it in because I had no games. Once I got some games and tried to play, the CV's RF output had a green tint, and looked as if I was playing on a GameBoy screen. There was no color, and all the graphics were just various shades of green! I tried to reflow solder on the RF board to no avail, de-soldered and checked the RF board and the components underneath (no difference), cleaned the power switch (which did not work) and even tried poking around the graphics chip and saw absolutely no difference in color whatsoever. I'm at wits end trying to figure out what is wrong with this CV. Attached below are a couple of pictures from the system on my Trinitron TV. This also came up on a flat screen TV as well. Any ideas?
  19. Hello. I just picked up a VIC-20 from a thrift store for $11. It has the RF and the AC adaptor. The light powers on, but when I hook it up to my small CRT TV, there's nothing. I tried channel 3 and 4, but it's just a blank screen. Now this may be a stupid question, and I have almost no working knowledge of this stuff, but since it is a computer I assume it will power on without any cartridges or anything plugged in. Am I correct with this assumption, or do I need to plug something in to fire it up? And if not what are some basic things I could do to troubleshoot? I have a Genesis model 1 A/V cable and an RF switch for model 2, is there anything I can do with those? Pardon my ignorance on the subject and thank you in advance!
  20. I have an Atari 800 with a keyboard that has 8 or 9 non-working keys. I have read on several threads about having to repair the mylar layer so I took everything apart and attempted the separation of PCB from key frame, but the PCB did NOT want to come off. I applied enough force that I feared cracking the edges of the PCB so I gave up. It was like the PCB was glued or soldered in place. While it was apart I cleaned all the card edge contacts and reseated all the boards (I did not reseat the ICs). So then I reassembled everything including the case, added a small shot of De-Oxit into a few non-working keys. That did not help so far. Further reading shows that there were several different makers. I did not know that while I had it open, or I would have written down the name from the board. I don't remember it. Are there other variants that are not mylar based? And if so, what would be best? Just the repeated key activations? I'll describe what I remember: - The attached ribbon cable was fairly thick and multicolored with red-brown female connector. - 9 attachment screws, could not find one under the tape area. However, removal of the screws did NOT loosen the PCB in the slightest. - Heavy grey plastic frame - keyboard unit as a whole was very heavy and solid. My next steps would probably be to spray under each non-working key with deoxit (I only did 2 so far), exercise them for a long(er) time, let it dry and retest. Should I open it back up and get the name of the board? Any other suggestions are welcome. thank you!
  21. Hello all, I have an Atari Lynx II that has the opposite problem from what I usually read on here. Whenever it is connected to a power source (wall adapter or batteries) it immediately turns on and never turns off. It will drain batteries completely if I leave them in it. Without a game it just shows the "Insert Game" message. With a game it plays fine, good display, good sound, but the Power and Off buttons do not do anything. I have replaced the D13 Zenner and the Q12 MOSFET and it continues. Happens with or without the flex ribbon for the buttons attached. I guess it is a more fortunate issue then "will not turn on", but has anyone ever run into this or have any ideas? Thanks!
  22. Hey folks! I'm hoping someone on here can help lend some insight as to how I can repair my Lynx. Here is the issue: When I power up the unit, it reads the TITLE screen clearly from any game I use, but then becomes scrambled after it tries to load the actual menu screen and/or game. See the attached pictures. It should also be noted that it was doing this BEFORE I replaced all of the capacitors, and have since done a full recap and absolutely NOTHING changed. The sound works and music plays when the main menu is loaded (but scrambled) and it even responds to the controls, but the center of the screen is shifted way over and half of the screen is scrambled. I'm fully aware of the dark lines in the LCD... I did a recap because I was hoping this would fix the issue and was going to do a McWill screen mod install, but since it's not reading games clearly, I don't want to waste all the time and money yet. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
  23. Hoping someone can help. Tested my Driving module today for the Colecovision, and it will either only move to the right, (once the wheel is turned, it continues moving in that direction, or it will respond in the opposite direction that the wheel is turning. Is this a faulty optical sensor? Please help. Thanks
  24. I recently picked up a six switch 2600 and have noticed an odd issue. Sometimes, colours will switch gradually. At times the green background of Stampede or Kaboom actually becomes red. I have no idea how to resolve this issue. Has anyone ever experienced this??
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