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Found 44 results

  1. Re; Upgrade Objectives and Starting Point: I have been reading the forums and watching youtube videos trying to plan how I will install a M.2 SSD (internally) into my VCS. I have a 2TB SATA Stick and hope to achieve 4 things: 1) expand the internal Storage available to the Stock Atari OS (to stock+500GB), 2) add a PC-Mode Boot manager to select which partition to boot to, 3) create a Windows 10 partition (1TB) , and 4) create a partition for future use (500GB) to add another OS (hopefully Batocera) at a later date. I have other goals that are not listed because they are not interdependent with the above 4. (Like freeing up external USB ports and moving my keyboard/mouse off of 2.4GHz.) The challenges that may not yet be resolved are: a) I think that I need to create a recovery image of the Atari OS partition before I do anything... (I likely need a separate computer that I may not currently have in order to do this), b) there may be no way to get an alternate OS onto the internal M.2 once it is installed - it may need to be done before installing the stick into the VCS, c) there may be no way to format the M.2 stick as an extension of the Atari OS storage without installing it into the VCS, d) there may be no way for the Atari OS to partition only part of the M.2 Stick to be part of the Atari OS, e) once the M.2 Stick has been partitioned to add storage to the Atari OS, re-sizing the partition may mess up the Atari's access to it, f) PC Mode may not be able to point to rEFInd unless it's on an external USB drive (would be unfortunate but tolerable). What I have to work with so far: i) an up-to-date Ubuntu box (that I know next-to-nothing about) that I could use if I need to. ii) another Ryzen box with Batocera installed and a selection of live-boot USB thumb-drives (Windows10, Lubunu, Ubuntu Mate) iii) a M.2 -to- USB 3.1 External SSD drive adapter, iv) the previously mentioned 2TB M.2 SSD (WD Blue 3D NAND 2TB Internal PC SSD - SATA III, M.2 - WDS200T2B0B) - not yet formatted, and v) a spare 1TB external USB 3.1 drive. vi) 2x16GB memory cards (HyperX Impact 2933MHz DDR4 CL17 SODIMM HX429S17IB2K2/32, 32GB kit) My tech background is in electronics design and some microcontroller programming, not with OS's, bootloaders, & drivers and such. The folks in other threads seem to understand this stuff much better than me and may likely advise me to not attempt this at all as a self admitted novice. My approach will be to simply go very slowly and research thoroughly before every step. This is the very reason I bought my VCS - to make it my living room TV computer. Worst case scenario is I have to give up on AtariOS, throw out the motherboard and jam a different motherboard in there - but I doubt it will come to that. Re; Backing up and restoring AtariOS: (a) In a thread called 'Hardware Upgrades, Experiences and Tips', started by justclaws several months and VCS updates ago, he points to a video by RetroAxis on backing up and restoring the AtariOS using a separate OpenSuSe linux box. It will take me some time to decypher all of the terms to map out how to do that, but I think it will be doable with my other Ryzen box and an Ubuntu Live-boot USB thumb drive and backing up to my spare 1TB external USB drive. I don't think I need to use OpenSuSe specifically... unless it has standard tools that Ubuntu is missing? Does anyone know if it will save me headaches to start by making an OpenSuse live-boot USB drive first? Re; Partitioning & Formatting the M.2 Drive: (b, c, d, & e) From reading the discussions between Charles Darwin, 0_obeWAN, & others in the 'Multi Boot Loader for USB/eMMC' thread who seem to know what the heck they are doing, it looks like there is a good multi-boot Bootloader called rEFInd that might work. I have not yet What I know so far: A) the BIOS requires UEFI Boot, and since others have succeeded with it, rEFInd Bootloader must support this (... I think? I don't know what these words really mean.), B) the current BIOS password is 'Atar!C3l3br8te$50Y34r$'. C) My rough-draft order-of-operations assumption is that I'll need to : Does this seem rational? 1st - Install & Format the AtariOS expanded (EXT3 ?) storage partition, 2nd - Remove the M.2 SSD and put it into the USB 3.1 external Drive adapter, 3rd - (If neccessary) re-size the partition to make room for other OSs, 4th - Format a Partition for the UEFI Multi-boot Bootloader, rEFInd, 5th - Format 2 NTFS partitions for Windows 10 Boot and operations, 6th - Format 2 XFS partitions for future OS Boot and operations, 7th - Install Windows to the NTFS Partitions 8th - Somehow "Compose" the rEFInd bootloader for the OSs selected and install it into the Bootloader Partition, 9th - Re-install the M.2 SSD into the internal bay of the VCS. 10th - ? Although I've found lots of references to physically installing the M.2 SSD card, I have not yet found any info on how to format the M.2 internal SSD so that the AtariOS can see it for games storage. Can anyone advise me: - if there is a utility in the AtariOS that recognizes new SSD and offers to format? - if so, will it allow you to format only part of the SSD? and - if not, is it an ext3 file system? & will the AtariOS see it if I format it correctly? Is there a known-good piece of software in a specific OS that will work for all this Formatting and Partitioning work? (is it user-friendly?) Re; Your feedback: I think this summarizes my plan as it stands to date - I don't want to go too far based on false assumptions or mis-information. Can anyone offer any feedback before I get too far along a faulty plan? ANY ADVISE IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!
  2. Hello everyone I'm in the process of building a VCS based hardware clone from scratch and have a few queries; I am going to replace the 6507 with 6502 (to get full 64k addressing + hardware interrupts + phi 1 and phi2 clocks ) and adding 32k of extra ram like the super Atari project (site is down but thanks for the wayback machine http://bit.ly/2FHlAH7) But these "NEW" eBay 6502 cpus (http://ebay.to/2DzjYJC) should work, or are these new chips like 65c02 in that the silicon has been altered due to "modern manufacture reasons"? And what's the highest clock speed available on a 6502? Also can you place some asynchronous buffer sram [cy7c408 = 128byte sram fifo memory] (http://bit.ly/2HGAAlm) between the data lines on the tia and 6502/7, so that the when the TIA Is drawing the data is already in the buffer, and all the cpu needs to do is correctly send the corrects address locations relevant to data stored in the buffer? (i.e instead of cpu calculating the display every scan-line you simply write a few scan-lines of image data into the buffer before The TIA begins to draw, then just correctly address in the order of whats stored in the buffer and do program logic) Since the [cy7c408a] is dual ported with asynchronous R/W, means you can just clock the output data [DO0-DO7] bus with the 1.19MHz clock from the TIA, iirc the TIA doesn't tend to like bus speeds higher than 1.19MHz? Then this should allow one to overclock the 6502 with for simplicity of counting cycles a multiple of the [ntsc] color-burst [TIA] clock ( i.e being able to have 684 cpu cycles per scan-line {using a 6502 clocked @ 10.75MHz = ~3x the TIA clock } instead of just 76 cycles) in such cases also sacrificing [native 2600] compatibility for increased cpu speed and more time for crunching instructions. I would also assume having the TIA reading the buffer @ 1.19Mhz would present in situations a bottleneck as well (when "drawing" to the TIA)? Since you can write data faster to the buffer than its being read (if the CPU is overclocked)? Since it seems the cy7c408 operates similar to a giant shift register, once its written you have to wait until data to reach to the TIA before it you write new data?? Can you just fill the buffer with 128 bytes of scan-line/sound data for the TIA, then handle the TIA addressing, and just fill the buffer as its being emptied, and essentially have 128 bytes of "VRam" (well more like Video buffer)? Also Can NMI be used instead of RDY, so that when the tia begins a new frame, wsync simply have the TIA tell the 6502 to "Stop, Pause , Go and do Display routine and then come back here", instead of just halting the cpu? Aswell i have a few microchip and avr (atmega8515) mcu's laying around wanting to be used for something and with a both MCU's, it's instructions are pipelined so that it takes effectively 1 cycle to load and execute data or decode and execute an instruction, except iirc when changing the program counter which iirc takes 2 - 3 cycles, So you don't have wait states [i.e iirc if using a z80, thats takes 3+ cycles for most of its instructions which is why they have such high clocks]. Is it possible to use the atmega or 18f4550 as sort of display controller for the TIA having the MCU handle reads from the buffer instead, and handle writing the data to the TIA, and use the atmega8515 to emulate the RIOT? Is it possible to emulate the Riot but with 256 bytes of ram? iirc RIOT ram is in page 0 so is faster to access than the 32k of extra ram? Plus is it possible, using A12 and A15 with a 74hc138 and a logic gate or two as a way to partially decode address to swap between cartridge space and 32k ram, so one can simply keep some compatibility, simply if A12 is high and A15 low then cartridge ROM is accessed, and if A15 is high in any case 32k Ram is Accessed? just building it to just play 2600 games isn't really hard (it was done from 1977 to 1992 literally millions of times), and seems a little redundant to me, I just figured since you can build your own 2600 compatible hardware clone for less than $50 in parts shipped, why not beef it up for some shits and giggles like a dev kit, have 256k of rom space and 32k ram, 6502, if possible using an MCU or 2 as an "In Hardware display Kernel", as well as emulate the riot, And CO10444D. why you ask? Because i i'll have the only atari "super" VCS with full USB 2.0 support (upto 12Mbit/s if I do use the 18f4550 lol) and plus i can really push the hardware to the limit see what it can do with some actual "power" behind it
  3. Bombs Away! (NTSC).bin Bombs Away! (PAL60).bin INSTRUCTIONS.pdf History of Drop Zone 4 and Bombs Away! README.txt Bombs Away! Game Accessibility Info One-button play and restart. Easier play option (game variation 3). High-contrast. Colour-Blind accessible. Deaf accessible. Flashing off option. No time limit. 19/12/2017 Update: New versions (12-2017) have two minor bug fixes. Physical cartridge planned for 2018. Bombs Away! (NTSC) 12-2017.bin Bombs Away! (PAL) 12-2017.bin
  4. The Eyeball Mural

    Data Age

    From the album: Logos

    The logo for Data Age, a third-party publisher for the Atari 2600.

    © Image by The Eyeball Mural, no rights reserved. Data Age intellectual properties belong to an unknown party.

  5. Hey guys, I am hoping someone can help me out with determining the value of my 2600. I bought an original 1977 Heavy Sixer at an antique mall/flea market type establishment, complete in box with the manual, warranty card, both original joysticks and paddle controllers, and all the cables, except for the switch box to hook it up to a TV. I purchased one of the coaxial adaptors so I could play it. In addition to Combat, it also had Riddle of the Sphinx, Starship and Air-Sea Battle in the box when I got it. I'm considering selling it, and I have no idea what it is actually worth. I would feel like a douche if I overcharged for it (I don't trust ebay prices as a guideline for anything) but I also don't want to give it away for too cheap either. I'm looking to either get a few more NES or Master System games instead, as I don't really care about having Atari hardware. I have an Atari flashback, and I love all the games on it. Any input would be most appreciated. Like I said, I have no idea what a fair asking price would be. Hope you experts can help me out! Thanks guys!!!!
  6. Well good news I found a heavy sixer for $20 at goodwill today. I was pumped till I got it home and started it up. Nothing but a black screen! Well I tried all the obvious stuff. Still nothing so I opened her up... No obvious problems. After a few hour of tinkering and checking voltages I decided to pull out my light sixer open it up and 1 by 1 I swapped out the socket'd chips. Bingo the little one in the middle fixed it. I didn't want to swap out the guts completely cuz I figured then its just a light sixer in heavy sixer clothes. But my light sixer is mint and the heavy sixer looks good but the wood grain has got some marks and the orange trim has definitely taken some wear. Now im considering swapping the tops. I know I cant fool the experts but I think it would make me happy to make my heavy sixer look perfect... But then again it wouldn't be perfect because I'd be cheating. What would you do?
  7. This is just an interest check. I have the following modified Atari 7800 system and 16 games. What would they be worth as one lot? Would anyone want to buy these as a lot? If so, how much would one be willing to pay for the following as a bundle? Suggestions? Comments? Asteroids Ballblazer Barnyard Blaster Centipede Dig Dug Donkey Kong Jr. F-18 Hornet Galaga Jinks Joust Karateka Meltdown Ms. Pac-man Robotron 2084 Tower Toppler Xevious I had this system modded for s-video and composite stereo audio. I have the 7800 gamepad. I have the joystick as well.
  8. I'm selling some of my extra stuff. Everything is fully working and as seen in pictures. Prices don't include shipping. 2600 (Sears Heavy Sixer) with 1 controllers, power supply and Asteroids $65 (S-video Mod) 5200 (4-Port) with 1 controllers, power supply and Super Breakout $50 (Power Mod) 7800 with 1 controllers, power supply and Pole Position 2 $40 2600 Games: $1 each Yars' Revenge Donkey Kong Grand Prix Asteroids Pac-Man Berzerk 5200 Games: $3 each Pac-Man Pole Position Pengo Galaxian Joust Centipede Pac-Man Vanguard Space Dungeon Berzerk Galaxian Defender Missile Command Qix Space Invaders Kangaroo Centipede Dig Dug Star Raiders $5 each River Raid Congo Bongo Pitfall! $2 each Q*bert Buck Rogers: Planet of Zoom (Big cut in Label) Super Cobra Frogger Blue Print Popeye $1 each Super Breakout RealSports Football Super Breakout $4 each Mario Bros Countermeasure Star Trek: Strategic Operations Simulator $8 each The Dreadnaught Factor $7 each Space Shuttle 7800 Games: $3 each Karateka Choplifter! Joust Food Fight $1 each Pole Position 2 One-on-One Basketball
  9. From the album: Dan's Images

    Tracking every single bit of RAM while playing Defender for Atari VCS/2600

    © No

  10. Selling off my Atari 2600 collection as a lot. Here's what's included: Atari 2600 black "Vader" console with power cable and computer/TV switch. Clean, tested and working. Two joysticks Pair of paddle controllers Atari Game Center system/cartridge/accessory organizer (cracked across the top) 58 Games: 3D Tic-Tac-Toe Adventure Air-Sea Battle Amidar Asteroids Astroblast Barnstorming Baseball Berzerk (x3) Bowling Boxing Chopper Command Combat (x2 - one label is real bad) Decathlon Defender (x3) Demon Attack Donkey Kong ET the Extra Terrestrial Football (x2) Frogger Golf [Tele Games] Gopher Gorf Grand Prix Home Run Jungle Hunt Kaboom! Laser Blast Maze Craze Megamania Missile Command (x3) Pac-Man Phoenix Pitfall Pitfall II Lost Caverns Raiders of the Lost Ark RealSports Baseball RealSports Tennis Skate Boardin' A Radical Adventure Solaris Space Cavern Space Chase Space Invaders Space War Star Wars The Empire Strikes Back Starmaster Tennis Vanguard Winter Games Yars' Revenge Manuals/Paperwork: Activision spring 1982 video game cartridge catalog Activision cartridge warranty sheet Atari 2600 VCS manual Atari catalog Barnstorming instruction manual Combat instruction manual Grand Prix instruction manual Laser Blast instruction manual Pac-Man instruction manual Space Chase instruction manual Video games by Apollo pamphlet Asking $225, price does not include shipping (will be actual cost to you via USPS Priority Mail). Please message me with any question or to buy. Thank you!
  11. Atari 2600 $99 12 games, two joysticks, high quality s-video and RCA cables. games. $99 Games that are included with the system are Donkey Kong Jr Midnight Magic Mouse Trap Solaris Moon Patrol Ms. Pacman Centipede Galaxian Frogger Q*bert The Empire Strikes Back Popeye Games ($8 min) Games arranged by rarity (feel free to make any offers )
  12. My first 2600 homebrew, project "F40", is still unfinished: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/179464-my-2600-racing-game-f40-aka-ferreira-40-kb/ My second 2600 homebrew is just started now: project "LEM". ** About the Project "LEM": ** Changelog/evolution of the project (pre-v0.0.0a): ** Changelog/evolution of v0.0.1a: ** Changelog/evolution of v0.0.2a: ** Changelog/evolution of v0.0.3a: ** Changelog/evolution of v0.0.4a: ** Changelog/evolution of v0.0.5a: Thanks. PS: it's better "in motion" than "in screenshots". It's a nice screensaver too. LEMv005a.bin LEMv005a_src.zip
  13. Combat was the pack-in for the Atari VCS. Did the game come as cart only or was it complete in its own box as if it were a retail release?
  14. I'm looking for replacement controllers for my 2600 gaming. I have a pair of TG Enjoysticks, which are fantastic but seem to be on the verge of breaking. I would love to get more of the same but I've never seen them anywhere besides the original auction i got them from. Attached photos are some obscure items that appeal to me, in addition to the Enjoysticks. Some items I have for trade might include loose Vectrex stuff, Dreamcast console, Wii console soft modded for emulation, Game Boy games, Sears console, maybe other stuff. Or money.
  15. I recently picked up a 5200 4-port. It's missing several case screws. Can anyone confirm the correct screws used for the case? I think the screws that came with this 5200 are type b #6-20 3/4 sheet metal screws. Is that what it should be or perhaps these were used to replace the original screws that were of a different type? Here's what was in my 5200: It didn't have a power supply, but I found one elsewhere. It's an 11.5v version. I tested it with a multimeter and it's outputting 14.5 volts. From what I've found the voltage regulators in both the case and the switchbox should be capable of handling over 30 volts. Do I have any reason to worry about using the power supply? 3 volts over seems like a big difference, is that typical or should I start looking for another power supply? The traces (or is it the soldermask) on the back side of the board on is wrinkly (see the POKEY to C104 wire image below). Is that normal or is it a sign of something I need to be worried about? It looks like the VCS adapter compatibility mod was applied to this board, but I also see a capacitor between pins 1 and 17 on the POKEY and a wire on the underside between pin 1 of the POKEY and C104. Is this a known mod? Any idea what it's for? Trying to smooth out power to the POKEY perhaps? In the middle of the rat's nest that is the VCS mod, I see a resistor and a capacitor (?) wired in parallel from between the two resistors connecting R11 and C10 as part of the VCS mod. There's also a diode wired to either side of R10. Any idea what they're for? The parts side of the pcb, marked CA018087, has no revision. The solder side, marked C018085 is rev 7. I will probably apply the mod to separate the power from the RF. I was also thinking about doing the mod for composite and/or s-video, but doing that would make the VCS mod pointless, right? If I did the composite/s-video mod I could pull the VCS mod out. If I did that would I need to reconnect pin 24 on the cartridge slot to ground? Thanks for any help/information you can provide. I hope to get this 5200 up and running soon.
  16. Lumi


    Hey all, I've posted about this before and got positive reception, so I'm trying to bring more attention to it. Any feedback is appreciated, although there's not much space left in the ROM for new features. This is an Atari 2600 homebrew game that's been in development for a while, and I believe it's finished now. It's a 4K, single player paddle game with SaveKey/AtariVox support. Plot: In this game, you must use the paddle controllers to steer your car left and right, avoiding obstacles in your path while collecting treasures. When you touch a treasure, you will get 1500 points and it will be added to your collection (the yellow dots on the left side of the status bar). You can have up to 5 treasures in your collection at a time. At any point, you can press the paddle controller's trigger to "burn" a treasure, giving you the energy to jump a short distance over any obstacles in your path. Any treasures you have left when your game ends will grant you an extra 1500 points. The game is won upon reaching 99,999 points. There are different kinds of treasures. Some of them will grant you unique powers: Gold coin: Does not grant any powers, is only worth points. Necklace: Gives you an extra life (the red dots on the right side of the status bar). You can have up to four lives at a time. Jar: Lets you pass through all barriers for a few seconds. Statuette: Lets you jump as much as you want with no penalties for a few seconds. The game will speed up when you get enough points. There will be a transition period where the game stops generating obstacles briefly, and the speed-up will occur while there are no obstacles on the screen. The difficulty switches toggle certain features. I highly recommend setting both to A for the full experience (Note: Stella sets both to B by default): - The left difficulty switch will make obstacles farther apart (B) or closer together (A). - The right difficulty switch turns moving obstacles off (B) or on (A). If the game feels too easy for you, enable Speed Freak mode! Simply press the game select switch at any point. When the title screen's background is red, this mode is enabled. Finally, the most important feature: if you press the paddle trigger while you have no treasures in your collection, you can honk the horn! Wow! As previously mentioned, the SaveKey and AtariVox are fully compatible for saving high scores (although there are no AtariVox speech functions). It saves unique high scores for Normal and Speed Freak modes. If you want to clear your high scores, press the game select and game reset switches at the same time. Drive! v1.4 NTSC.bin Drive! v1.4 PAL.bin Additionaly, here's a possible label I have for now:
  17. From the album: RetroElectroDad Console Collection

    Atari VCS with Starpath Supercharger.

    © Trevor Briscoe

  18. From the album: Dan's Images

    Tracking every single bit of RAM while playing Empire Strikes Back for ATari VCS/2600

    © No

  19. I got a good sized collection so far even got some rare stuff. Rockin the Vader cus it’s the best vcs in my opinion.
  20. This one was based on suggestions from the community, and my own frustration with fast-moving games like Stargate that require two controllers. Two loose factory controllers are fine for the slower games, but unless you have a contraption that holds the two together, very frustrating for the fast games. Originally this was going to be for the Atari 2600 only, but a number of 7800 fans voiced a desire for one that would work with their favorite system, so why not? Especially with Robotron available on that system! The leftmost pair of buttons corresponds to the left joystick, and the rightmost pair to the right joystyick. The two toggle switches on the back shuffle the A / B buttons in each pair when used on the 7800. When used on the 2600, both buttons perform the same function. The two joysticks are digital, but have the smooth feel of analog sticks. Case is made of steel, so it's a bit heavier than the average controller, but well-suited for tabletop use. Felt feet ensure that your prized hardwood table won't get all scratched up. Too early to tell how many of these will be produced. Like what you see? Please contact me for any info not presented here. Larry
  21. Here's my video review of the the Atari 2600 Homebrew Companion Volume 1 and Stella Programmer's Guide! Enjoy!
  22. I just found this youtube series of videos and I think they're quite interesting. It's from an old VHS, so the quality isn't very good, and I noticed a couple of inaccuracies about how the 6532 is wired to the joystick ports, but it's still very useful for someone learning how the VCS works and how to fix the most common problems. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wc6CYLFjKoo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eGJdNxFuXw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rxuD4mxBZU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jb6FZ8rB5gU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBHKWYJAPyQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBVjD84nwNU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLYGMrUJado https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvjdP79m4go https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XD1Ci9L1AuM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdh4vt8UEtI
  23. Hey everyone. I'm trying to get a general idea as to what joystick is great for the 2600. Any ideas? Thoughts?
  24. Updated: 1/15/14 Download: spctank.zip * includes source, 4k bin, manual, map, and label * Difficulty settings: Left switch set to A: more frequent powerups Left switch set to B: less frequent powerups Right switch set to A: slower non-player-characters Right switch set to B: faster non-player-characters Story: Two players (or single skilled player) operate a tank that has a command console with four functions (two joysticks). The left joystick moves the tank around and its button brings up the status display when held down. The right joystick moves a crosshair and its button fires the gun at whatever is selected. Their mission is to rescue prisoners of war from an alien planet. The prisoners are high ranking scientists of the players planet. The prisoners are being kept in a cell which can be found on the map included in this distribution. Three keycards must be found to open the cell and free the prisoners. The players tank has limited shielding and ammunition, but more may be found randomly throughout the planet. Players Will also find upgrades for the tank including the bigmissile and autolock. Alien enemies will be encountered most frequently and must be killed in order to find the keycards. Some aliens will require more ammo to kill than others, but the bigmissile upgrade allows for instant kills. The autolock upgrade causes the crosshair to lock on to aliens. Both upgrades have three uses. When the three keycards are found, the players should find the cell and free the prisoners. The players must keep an eye on their fuel level using the status display. If their fuel is running low, they must return the the ship at the starting position to obtain more. Types of alien enemies: Infantry Blade Saucer Bulldozer Powerups: Shield Ammo Bigmissile Autolock Structures: Ship (starting position/refueling) POW Camp Screenshots:
  25. I'm looking for information on this, hoping someone here can help: It's an adapted Atari VCS with specialised controls and B/W monitor. The image dates from 2006, believed to be from an eBay auction in the USA. You can see it originally being used around 1982 from Ken Yankelevitz (who created it) here: I found the image here: http://www.pong-picture-page.de/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=14&products_id=1593 Can anyone please shed some light on what happened to this? I'm really hoping it's not been dumped, as I'd love to get hold of it. Thanks for looking (re. bounced from http://atariage.com/forums/topic/212700-info-wanted-atari-2600-hacked-for-disabled-users/). Barrie (www.OneSwitch.org.uk)
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