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Found 19 results

  1. Looking for an Atari 7800 with VGA, DVI or SCART output on the system. No S-Video, HDMI or AV. Already have an AV and HDMI system with these outputs.
  2. Projects - VGA to SCART Converter - [2] http://www.nexusuk.org/projects/vga2scart/voltage_from_vsync/view
  3. gulps

    ntmini To scart2

    Analogue Nt Mini cable for SCART-Euroconector use.
  4. gulps

    Vga onboard

    Classic motherboard connections.
  5. Hello, I am really close to capturing video on twitch. First let me say that the Hauppaugr Rocket, or anything Hauppauge, has a hacky way of dealing with Macintoshes. And the funny thing is I'm not using a Macintosh to broadcast the game because my cellular phone gets more data outbound than my home internet. Stream works for Android can only seem to capture the internal camera or the screenshot. So probably between and honesty Cam and the game footage, it's a possible to split the Android screen because only one external input is allowed. Luckily I'm doing decently on the Mac version of obs. I said it the way I want then full screen on a second monitor and send the second monitor to a capture card. When I first tried, I just a Hauppauge Rocket (which could capture, composite S-Video component and HDMI, and goes out to USB 2.0 and has a second HDMI output.) And at the easycap composite S-Video capture. The EZ cap works with the Android. I have on back order an easycap HDMI device. for everything except scart I got everything I need in theory to capture including a VCR for converting NTSC RF into composite plus Stereo (or mono in 2 speakers). However the Hauppauge seems kind of roundabout requiring extra steps and forcing lag, and using the home network which is draining the Wi-Fi device despite not receiving any data, because it requires a port to be tapped for it to work. So I should probably get at least one more easycap HDMI. I'll have to HDMI one for the Mac one for the Android, and a composite and S-Video capture. If I want to totally avoid Hauppauge, and just stick to easycap which works driverless on Macintosh and Android, I need some options for 3 setups. Two of them are related. Upstairs I would like a solution for ntsc RF. Let's just say I got a small 8 mm VCR, about half the width of a VHS machine at about significant but lesser depth and height cuts. And that VCR might be too big. plus one time it just spontaneously loads and loads and shuts off so I don't want to have to rely on this forever. any solution for a compact way to convert ntsc RF to something that I could use with a in my capture cards. I would prefer a direct to HDMI or one of the three Channel analogs, but composite is okay as a last resort. I have an interesting device that I originally bought when my CRT TV didn't have an S video plug. Back then I was trying to get my games to work and I didn't want to drop down to composite. I found this one device called a video to VGA adapter. Which has 3 video inputs, one of them VGA, the other two composite an S-Video. this is an active converter with a small push button interface and requires power to be used from an outside source. It also has a VGA output. Luckily I bought HDMI to VGA converters, hoping that the converter takes less than 1 millisecond to converts between HDMI and VGA,. if that's the case then I'll buy myself quite a bit of ping time compared to Native HDMI because I've never seen a CRT TV accept HDMI. I don't think any CRT TV has an HDMI interface. The best you could do is VGA. Also I came upon scart hookups for a few systems that supports cart, all for Sega machines, (includes both Genesis versions) and the Super NES are probably be all the systems that could be done without modding a system. Also I bought an S-Video / composite / RCA audio scart female scart male adapter. First away I heard you could test to see if the adapters for the consoles are truly skirt and not the jp21 adapters without risking frying and equipment is a plug the scart cable in one end and use that adapter to lead out composite if it plays on my TV that is correct if nothing happens good or bad then we know we got to jp21. also extract out the audio so that I can pipe it to the capture card without requiring separate audio outputs. Someone told me that RCA based RGB, scart based RGB, and VGA RGB are different expressions of the same language, meaning any one of them could understand any one of the other them with a passive adapter. Is that true? And I understand even though physically the same RCA Based ypbpr is a different language of color. I also bought a device, a mayflash VGA / ypbpr 2 way converter. I noticed it was both a VGA input and VGA output. How would I be able to tell if that video to VGA device could take a VGA input again assuming the 3-3 channel RGB forms are the same, and all use "regular TVs" which have a refresh rate of 15 kHZ, could I use at VGA to VGA adapter to effectively convert 15 kilohertz to hire kilohertz standards of VGA monitors? While I'm at it is there such a thing as either a VGA input for a Mac around 2012 and uses OS 10.12? Or would a VGA to HDMI converter be more acceptable? I guess if easycap makes VGA to USB adapters it would work. By the way sorry for giving a long laundry list,. All these don't have to be fulfilled. Assuming the video to VGA adapter does what it says,. All I really need is something for. NTSC RF that won't take up much, and something for VGA to my Mac, either a VGA to USB directly that's easycap compatible or VGA to HDMI adapter and use a second easycap HDMI for that. by the way my Mac Mini has a thunderbolt 1 adapter which I heard is the same speed as( just physically different) and adaptable to USB C 3.1? I do have a thunderbolt 3 to thunderbolt 2 cable and thunderbolt 2 is physically the same as thunderbolt 1. Just giving you another option to think about. Finally I understand for light gun games, I have to go downstairs and make one path as short as possible to the TV. And yes I understand VGA monitors cannot play light gun games or Sega Master System Sega scope games, but the pain level is like that of a VCR, enough to throw a light game off but nothing much beyond that in terms of ping time. So don't go using the RGB on the CRT TV because you have to translate it to ypbpr anyway and that's adding a VCR to the chain.
  6. Hi, I used to collect Atari computers and PCs of similar age and I've been getting rid of most of my old collection since I've fallen out of the hobby. I really like the way the SM124 monitor I have looks though and was wondering if there was any way to connect a vga or other sort of slightly more updated video connection to it. I've found adapters online but they all seem to be so that you can use a VGA monitor with an Atari ST, I'm searching for the opposite of that basically. Any information about adapters, mods, or why what I'm asking isn't feasible or practical would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  7. Yes I was wondering how well do scart and VGA play well with each other? I've seen passive adapters that go to both or red green blue RCA not sure whether it's RGB fornat or YPbPr format. I did buy a mayflash VGA back and forth to YPbPr. If a connection between scart and VGA is pretty much passive then since I'm using a VGA monitor as a CRT, Then it should work for everything and have a short enough delay for everything except light gun games. Also I see both active and passive composites an S-Video connectors to VGA. And I do not know what is available on ntsc RF to VGA. These items on Amazon and eBay do not make it clear what the source of the video is and what the destination of the TV is. To and from could be a matter of perspective depending on which way you're starting from. I'm looking for taking S-video on Nintendo 64 and Atari Jaguar I'm putting it in the VGA TV. NES would use composite. Atari 7800 and earlier with ntsc RF. All the other systems I have either use scart RGB or ypbpr 3 RCA. So for S-Video and composite,. Do I want the active connector or the passive connector? Is there such a thing as Direct ntsc rf 2 VGA? If not I can make one extra step of tuning the ntsc using the smallest thing I could find with a tuner and 8 mm tape recorder and player with tuner built in.
  8. The Atari Lynx 1-UP from: starforcepi.wordpress.com What’s the greatest handheld of the 1980s and 1990s? Why, the 16-bit arcade juggernaut named Atari Lynx, of course! I was a kid when the original Lynx 1 came out for us here in the old country in 1990, and was blown away. The Game Boy was a monochrome moron in comparison, and the Game Gear was all about converting Mega Drive and Master System games to pocket version – the Lynx, with its hardware-driven zooming and distortion of sprites, was going for Arcade experiences. BOOYA! Sadly, as with everthing Atari, this too turned to dust. BUT, fast-forward to 2018 and look at the love for this loveable giant! So much so, that McWill, a name you must’ve heard of by now, released one of the most impressive upgrades for a system I’ve ever seen – LCD replacement for the waning washed-out Lynx screen, with VGA output. The VGA output was a great addition, but the way I’ve seen people utilize it online seemed rather silly to me; you would have to use the Lynx as the controller when playing on the VGA. No sir, I don’t like it. So I decided to use the spacious room behind the screen to build an interface to: 1) securely place the Lynx on a stand; 2) output VGA; 3) connect a standard DB9 compatible controller (Mega Drive, Master System, Atari). It’s a tight squeeze, but the VGA, Controller port and Stand all fit neatly in the small 3x4cm interface window. This was an absolute pleasure to build, everything went smooth and simple, all the measurements were direct hits, hell even the stand only took me 10 minutes to design (8 hours to print, but hey). So let’s see it in full VGA action: It’s perhaps the best handheld to consolize: the GameGear has most games on Master System or Mega Drive, the GameBoy looks rather silly and clunky on a monitor, and TurboExpress is pointless, because it’s a 1-to-1 conversion of the actual console. I am glad I did it, I hope you will too, and stop placing those ugly connectors on the top of your handheld. Building the Lynx 1-UPI bought a pristine looking junked Lynx 1 for 20 euros – seemed a good place to start, let’s see if we can bring it alive! I replaced all the capacitors, power input socket, MOSFET, but finally it was the two 3906 transistors that were the issue. In order to do these replacements, you need a fine-point soldering iron and some tweezers, but everything on the board is quite spacious, so there’s no mistaking what’s what. This part is cheap: 7 dollars on console5.com. They have links and tutorials on that site, very complete. I also bought the McWill for 120 dollars, I was gonna do this mod regardless if this particular system was junked. So far everything together cost me ~150 dollars. After bringing the console back to live, it was time for McWillification! I followed the 1 page diagram that came with it, but it’s a little information dense, so I followed the following video instead: This worked better than I could have ever imagined, I know everyone says they’re gobsmacked when they see the difference, but it really is very true – I get why it’s such an expensive mod now. I was gonna leave it with that, honestly that’s just everything one could ever want from an upgrade… but, of course, me being the way I am, things escalated. You see, the mod came with the VGA socket, and I saw how people were placing these at the top of their handhelds, and you know what – it looked ugly. I want the facade of the handheld to be untouched. While I was adding the McWill mod I noticed the enormous space left behind the screen, which is when I had the idea: make the Lynx into a hybrid, with the connector ports at the back with a stand for console gaming via VGA, and all the ports hidden behing a minimal cover during handheld gaming. I first ordered DB9 sockets for a controller, and placed this together with the VGA socket on the inside of the battery cover. I made a little window in the battery cover, 3D printed a frame and cover for the ports, and there we have our interface. For the controller ports I had to solder 6 wires on the button pads of the Lynx PCB. Luckily most of these have soldered extension traces, so you can avoid blocking the normal button-to-pad press, but for two I had to solder directly onto the pad: be mindfull to be as flat as possible. Then we wire up the VGA socket to the pads on the McWill screen, this is shown in the accompanied diagram of the screen. We then place the DB9 and VGA socket in the space between the batteries, where the little light tube of the old screen sat (ignore the loose wires, they’re from the battery input, I cut them for ease of access). In the left picture, top connector is the VGA socket you can see running to the McWill screen. The lower connector go to the front of the PCB to the button pads. When assembled the VGA socket is lower, and DB9 is upper. Next to these I added screw connectors, so that I may fix the system to a stand, as shown in the next pictures: Unlike the Nintendo Snack Pack, this was a joy to make. I did it to unwind and relax, I didn’t want to build something from the ground up, but this just gave enough inspiration to just slightly 1-up it. The Lynx Stand and little VGA cover in particular really clean the mod up nicely, and makes this thing into a fully consolized system. I must admit though, I’ve been mostly playing it with the stand and controller via the McWill screen, not via VGA, but hey, it’s there. Finally, it all cost me a substantial 150 euro, but it was worth it. The Atari Lynx is a very strange and powerful handheld, spanning 7 years with 72 games, it’s still enjoying new homebrew releases every year, with a small but dedicated following. I’m very happy to be one of them. Upgrades: Full capacitor replacement MOSFET replacement 3906 Transistor replacement Power input socket replacement McWill Screen upgrade VGA output port DB9 input port Custom interface window & stand
  9. I'm fairly new to the ST, but I picked up 3 STs, in a lot, recently. I got a 520stfm, a 520stm, and a 520st. I didn't get any monitors, or video cables, with them, though. Given that situation, the first thing that I did was to make up a DIN-13 to composite video + audio cable. The quality of output I got from that was acceptable (but not great) at low res, and terrible at medium res. Looking to improve my output, I bought a an NEW v2.0 Atari ST DIN13 to VGA Adaptor Low-Medium/High Switchable with Audio Out and, after reading that my Extron RGB-HDMI 300a was capable of going beyond the spec of 30 kHz, I tried it out. I think that the results speak for themselves. You can see some jailbars, particularly in high res, but if I take a bit of time to adjust the phase, those should go away. These images are the defaults, with zero tuning. - Alex
  10. gulps

    Vga screws

    Analogue Nt Mini with vga screws added.
  11. I think I found a way to enjoy better gaming for every RF ntsc based later system, except for the few light gun games for the 7800 2600 which don't work when converted to computer monitors. I got something called an MTV box which takes RF input and converts it to VGA output. there are two different VGA ports a circular one and a keystone one and a cord that goes from one to the other I assume those two are functionally identical. The main issue I have is the RF port. I tried using an F-Type male and an F-Type female and neither worked. Someone at Best Buy told me it was a BNC female connector. I bought a BNC male connector it does not fit. unfortunately Best Buy does not let you send pictures to their help to help diagnose something. Thankfully atariage does, though it's staffed by volunteers which could be a good thing. It is for something I found called an MTVBox. This weird antennas standard is preventing me from enjoying it. If someone wants me to, I can take a picture of the standard and showing you that BNC male does not fit nor does F-Type male nor does F-Type female.
  12. Hello all..... Have done some reading up on why older systems look rubbish on new monitors, like the photo I've attached of my Coco 3 hooked up to my old Bravia. That pic isnt too bad but text is horrible especially in 80 column mode. Been reading up on the VGA adaptor made by Roy Justus and it looks like a great piece of equipment. He was good enough to reply to my email letting me know he's not making them at the moment but will in future (This was last month). When he decides to build them again, I'm still going to buy one but is there something else I can use in the meantime? (Didn't realise how much I missed that old machine....emulators are great but much prefer the real thing!) Thanks.
  13. Alright, so I got this really awesome 3D LED tv (Vizio Razor M3D460SR) but since it's so thin or something they combined the AV input with the Component1 plugs (green is shared with the yellow composite plug) and Component2 with the VGA input (works with a VGA to component passthrough cable and an RCA to 3.5mm stereo cable). Is there anyone with really awesome video ciruitry skills that can help devise a custom external device to combat this? Wishful thinking: A) S-Video to Component circuit - Doesn't need to upscale past 480i, but I'd like to keep the quality improvement from the S-Video connector instead of going S-Video -> RCA Composite A-2) Composite to Component if A) is possible (for 3) below) B) Some form of automatic switching between sources Realistic goals / options 1) Input 1: Component + RCA Left/Right, Input 2: VGA Computer + 3.5mm Stereo, Output: VGA connector + 3.5mm Stereo In other words, make a switch for a VGA -> Component passthrough and a normal VGA source. There's no conversion from Component to an actual VGA signal, the tv supports and has been tested with a Component to VGA cable. 2) Input: Component (Green, Blue, and Red plugs), Composite (Yellow), Output: Green, Blue, White Explanation: A switch that cuts off Red and Blue when set to Composite, Yellow gets forwarded to Green. I've got an automatic switchbox that only outputs one set of RCA audio cables for both component and composite, so that's why that's not included. 3) Assuming A): Input 1: S-Video + RCA Left/Right, Input 2: Composite + RCA Left/Right, Input 3: Component + RCA Left/Right, Input 4: VGA + 3.5mm Stereo, Output: VGA connector + 3.5mm Stereo On Input 2: Left mono to Stereo when Right In connector has no signal VGA passthrough switch as in 1) Assuming B) as well: If there is a signal on Input 4, leave it on 4 unless manually switched. If there is no signal, switch to VGA -> Component passthrough For inputs 1, 2, and 3 switch to the input that has received a signal last. ie: Input 1 is on, input 3 is turned on switch to input 3, input 2 is turned on switch to input 2. (same function as the switch box I have now)
  14. I'm looking to buy a Saturn SVIDEO cable, a Dreamcast SVIDEO cable, and a Dreamcast VGA cable. I'm not too picky; I'll take a Pelican or Performance brand; anything. If the cable sucks, I'll rip it apart and make my own from the console-side connector. Other things I may be interested in if you have them: SVIDEO/Composite to VGA converter Composite cable for Genesis/Megadrive I Composite cable for Genesis/Megadrive II
  15. Good evening all, I have a question for the lovely folks of Atari Age. As I have ran out of options here - so I am hopeful someone here can shed some light on the issue I have been struggling with. Backstory: I've gotten my self a 1995 Sun Ultra 1 Creator workstation. It is in excellent condition, and it works just perfect. I've even managed to score a Sun Microsystems 21" CRT display which is just a beauty. Now, as this monitor is way too big for any room I plan to keep it in, I've wanted to see if I can attach it to a VGA LCD monitor. The thing is, this workstation has the Sun frame buffer, and uses that "wonderful" 13W3 connection. Problem: I've gotten this 13W3 to VGA converted off eBay, as that was supposed to do the job. It arrived, I connected it to my Dell 19" LCD (P190S), but nothing. It kept flashing from time to time, but no picture showed up. After some digging, it seems that the issue is that the Sun systems are using a Sync on Green (SoG) output, so I need a monitor that supports that. Okay - I got a LG Flatron (19") that supports SoG. But again: nothing. Okay, maybe the LG cannot handle the refresh rates, let me get something that a lot of folks in the retro world use: NEC MultiSync 1990FXp. Still nothing, this one does not even flash from time to time. The question: What can I use to connect this old Sun Ultra workstation to a LCD VGA monitor? Am I missing something. Is it the monitor? Is it the frame buffer? Thank you all!
  16. gulps


    This cable lets you connect a TV set with a RGB capable scart input to the PC VGA output. It is necessary to set the PC video card to output a 15.6kHz 50/60 Hz signal so that line and frame refresh frequencies are TV/Arcade monitor compatible as explained in the Introduction.

    © http://www.geocities.ws/podernixie/htpc/cables-en.html

  17. He got two questions about the Virtual Boy. I see castlemania games has virtual tap. It cost around $70 and has the name of three Western hemisphere modders who do they recommend will mod it for you for a price. I tried writing castlemania games but it wouldn't let me in to their letter page. They don't usually let non-customers join. First of all I've seen anaglyph videos of Virtual Boy. Most are red and blue but I don't have the red and blue glasses. I do have the red and cyan glasses. From what I know in science, blue light plus green light equals cyan light. I heard you could play either left eye or right eye. Could you play both? I assume if either VGA or RGB is a simple pin connection to have the left I have the red and the right I have the Green in the blue connected. It says it could swap between 8 colors. I assume it's the seven main colors scientifically defined that isn't black, and the eighth color can you be a custom color or by default is inverse White.(black spots on white backgrounds) Is there a color switch on both sides? If so it would be easy to have independent color shifts. If you are not independent controls for left and right eye could there be a 3D mode where whatever the left eye is the right eye is the opposite. So red and Cyan are together, green and magenta are together, blue and yellow are together, pick the opposite side to flip sides. most of the video show red and blue and I've seen a cyan video before so I know the combination is possible. I know to buy it from castlemania have it sent directly to a modder along with my working Virtual Boy and pay the labor and extra parts fee. The best thing you could do is play it on a TV screen. I assume it works for VGA and RGB scart because all those have separate pins for red green and blue, adding a composite or S-Video chip would have really thrown It off. so now it's the console and pretty much anything that is not specifically analog I prefer my fightstick for, without tearing apart a virtual boy joystick, could someone add a method of getting a brook retro fight stick board working with Virtual Boy? I know it has very weird controllers. It's partly robotron control, partly NES control. what would be the ideal arrangement for most schemes using a fightstick with a virtual boy?
  18. Hey guys, I know that this poor horse has been beaten to death on the forums but i need some advice. I have an Atari 1040STe with 4mb memory upgrade. I have a spare LG 27" TV thats sits nicely next to my iMac. My plan is to use the TV for both low/medium and high res via din->scart and din->VGA for the Atari, as well as a secondary monitor for my iMac via HDMI. The problem is the quality of the picture of the Atari. When i view it via the Din->Scart cable in low or medium resolution the screen seems to jump every few seconds, apart from this the picture is good, however, this screen jumping makes playing games impossible When i view the atari in hi res via din->VGA, i get very slight constant flickering. When i plug the Atari into my cheap VGA monitor i don't get anywhere near as much flickering. Not sure if this may be a cause of the problem but, I should mention both the din->vga and din->scart cables have stereo audio breakouts as the rca audio out ports on the machine seem to be playing up (seems the output is way too hot and the volume doesn't match L + R, but i'm going to look into this once I've sorted the screen thing.) So to summarise; plug in via scart i get occasional screen jumping, and plug in via vga i get slight flickering. What do you guys reckon? Thanks so much!
  19. gulps

    ntmini To scart1

    Analogue Nt Mini cable for SCART-Euroconector use.
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