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Found 86 results

  1. You want to use your F18A enhanced computer, vintage game machine or other VGA equipped classic computer on your fancy new big screen television set? Think again, most new TV’s no longer support VGA or S-Video inputs. Don’t you just love planned obsolescence and cost saving methods? What’s a hobbyist to do? There are many different VGA to HDMI converters available for sale. The Sewell Hammerhead is on the upper end of the price scale, but there are other more reasonably priced devices that will not ‘break the bank’ and still do the job quite well. Items that you will need 1) VGA to HDMI converter (comes with power cable) 2) HDMI video cable 3) Optional power supply if you don’t use the USB power on the TV. There are numerous lower priced knock-off units out there, some in the $6.00 -$11.00 range. I cannot guarantee results with any of those as I do not have any first-hand experience with them. The one I purchased was listed in this link as a << “Vic Tsing” VGA to HDMI >>. This unit sells in the $20.00 range and is confirmed to work quite well with the F18A in my TI-99/4A. Thanks to Atari Age user JediMatt42 for bringing this specific unit to my attention. If you do not already have an extra HDMI cable, you’ll probably want to purchase one at the same time. Be aware that if your VGA output is only 640 X 480, like with the F18A, you’ll have to adjust the setting on your TV to display it at the full or proper size. This thing is a snap to install, however the audio output on many different devices varies, so no matter what converter you end up purchasing, you may have to purchase or make your own converter for the audio plug. INPUT WANTED If you end up purchasing a device in the under $10.00 price range, I'd like to read your comments and a review. Thanks. In the event you want to print this up, a PDF version of this blog entry is attached below. Using Classic VGA Based Gear on Contemporary TV's.pdf
  2. Well, I'm diving back into real TI hardware and unfortunately my luck with it is like with nearly everything else - if it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all! Anyway, I'm not here to pity myself, but would like to know what the issue is with one of the TI-99/4A's I recently picked up in as-is condition. I've attached a picture of the boot screen which shows a lot of garbage and obviously isn't working properly. Is this a video RAM problem, the display chip, or something else? Thankfully I did get a hold of one working 4A (the 4 also has problems - it powers on but has nothing but snow on the screen and a weird high pitched static / white noise going on so I don't know what's wrong with it), a speech synthesizer, and a bunch of carts including a few rare ones. Of course, it's the carts only - no boxes or manuals, but I'm still pretty happy with what I've picked up so far, along with my notations for my own reference. # in parentheses is how many I have of each if more than one: Adventure - TI (3)(cartridge only) Alpiner - TI (3)(speech) Buck Rogers: Planet of Zoom - TI (speech) BurgerTime - TI (flaky) Car Wars - TI Congo Bongo - TI Diagnostic - TI Disk Manager 2 - TI (4) Editor/Assembler - TI (3)(requires 32K)(cartridge only) Jawbreaker II - TI M*A*S*H - TI (speech) Mini Memory - TI (3) MunchMan - TI (2) Parsec - TI (speech) Return To Pirate's Isle - TI Speech Editor - TI Star Trek: Strategic Operations Simulator - TI (speech) Super Demon Attack - TI Terminal Emulator 2 - TI (6) TI Extended BASIC - TI (5) TI Invaders - TI TI WRITER Word Processor - TI (cartridge only) Tombstone City - TI Tunnels of Doom - TI (cartridge only) Ambulance - Funware Defender - Atarisoft Disk Fixer V2.1 - Navarone (requires 32K) Frogger - Parker Brothers Jungle Hunt - Atarisoft Micro Pinball II - DataBioTics Miner 2049er - Tigervision (2) Pac-Man - Atarisoft (flaky) PDM-99 (Peripheral Diagnostic Module) - CorComp Pole Position - Atarisoft Speed Reading A - Navarone (flaky) Super Extended BASIC - ? Wordwriter - DataBioTics Could have been better, but overall, I'm glad that I got at least one working machine with which to start over. I'll have to look over the threads here to see what the best path forward would be for getting 32K RAM added, as well as storage.
  3. I've been working on a new upgrade that can be installed in any A8, 5200, & even the 2600. I know there's a million upgrades out there, but the good ones are mostly based on tweaks to the original Atari circuit, and the bad ones are haphazardly designed. 1st, the real problems with the Atari circuit(s): The video circuits in most A8's are not sufficiently decoupled from the digital noise in the system. Video power and ground are often shared with very noisy components like DRAM and this causes vertical bars to appear in the picture. For example, you can often see the refresh cycles on the left side of the screen. Crude DACs like the one made from the CD4050 have no ability to reject power supply noise and will superimpose it on the picture. No tweaking of the video buffers will remove it. Atari actually put components in some XLs to blur the image in an attempt to clear up the lines. That's not to say the buffers didn't need tweaking. They frequently deviated from the 75-ohm impedance standard that that meant the picture quality could be unreliable (shadows, smearing & ghosting), especially with longer cables. At video speeds, you only get maximum transfer when everything is the right impedance. In addition, some of the chroma circuits produced highly distorted sine-waves which contributed to noise in the image. So to solve these problems, my board: 1. Has an on-board regulator to create a clean video power source. 2. Has a 3-channel video amplifier designed for 75 ohm loads. 3. Has a pixel re-clocking circuit to remove skew and better align the 4 luminance signals into a perfect pixel edge. 4. Has a carefully designed chroma-shaping circuit. In addition, there's an adjustable pot on the board which controls the phase between the chroma and luma signals. A nice side-effect of this that you can change the artifact colors. There's also a jumper to invert the chroma which swaps the positions of the artifact colors. The board plugs into the CD4050 socket for easy installation on most machines. It can be used in place of the original circuit or along side it. I'm working on the final board layout and I hope to have them available in the AtariAge store early next year. Here are some pictures of the prototype. Any patterns in the picture are due to the camera picking up the CRT mask, but you'll notice the absence of vertical bars (I'll try to get better pictures...). One of the pictures is taken off my LCD (and even the LCD is hard to photograph). The split screen pictures show the effect of artifact tuning. The board is currently installed in a very noisy 130XE. I'll try to get some before pictures. I'm calling it UAV for Ultimate Atari Video. More to come!
  4. This is now a "quest" -- and way more interesting to me than an adventure game! I've been doing a little research on the 600XL video issues, trying to find a "Quick and Easy" solution such as the excellent information in the "Quick and Easy Video Upgrade for the 800XL." http://www.atariage....rade-for-800xl/ That thread actually contains a reference to an article on the 600XL: (BTW, the author of this also did an article on bringing the ram in a 600XL up to 64K.) http://atrey.karlin....i/600xlmon.html This method is way easier than SuperVideo 2.1. Has anyone done this mod, and does it give good results? I wonder if it can be "tweaked" to improve the results? There is also the Best Electronics 600XL kit shown on this page: http://www.best-elec...800xl.htm#600XL Has anyone done the B.E. kit mod, and is it the same as the mod shown above? Or is the BE mod a kit of missing parts to make the 600XL video functional through a normal monitor jack? Does it provide good results, or do you then have to "mod" the results to get good video? (If the 600XL video ends up looking like a stock 800XL, that's probably not a good thing.) -Larry
  5. I'm starting this thread as a means to hopefully promote some F18A development, answer specific questions about programming the F18A, and finally as place to look for links to updated documentation and eventually firmware updates. This first post will always have the latest documents and updates attached, so there is no need to go digging through the thread to find the most recent information. I also hope it will contain questions, answers, and code examples. I would like to keep this thread technical and on-topic, so if you have other general F18A questions or comments, please start a new thread or use the other existing F18A thread. * Documentation: On-going. This is something I hope to complete, but until then Rasmus has collected many of the F18A programming posts from the forum and created PDF of them (thank you Rasmus!) See the files attached to this thread, and please ask F18A technical questions in this thread. The main F18A webpage (http://codehackcreate.com/archives/30) has the main feature list, as well as an initial post to getting started with programming the F18A. As I add documentation, I will post it on the website first, then make an update here to let anyone interested know there is something new. * Register Use Spreadsheet: Libre Office / Open Office .ods format. This is the primary spreadsheet I used while developing the F18A, and all functionality was documented in the spreadsheet first, then converted into HDL. That means the spreadsheet is always up to date with respect to the F18A's functionality. While some of the F18A's features require more documentation to use, much of the functionality is very self explanatory and can be used just by looking at the spreadsheet and reading the notes. For example, it does not take much to guessing to figure out what the "horizontal scroll register" does. ************* COMPATIBILITY ************* Pin-compatible replacement for the TMS9918A, 9928, 9929, and TMS9118 Video Data Processors. The F18A has been tested in the following systems: TI-99/4A Home Computer ColecoVison Game Console* ColecoVision ADAM Computer# Toshiba HX-10 MSX1 Computer Toshiba Pasopia-IQ MSX1 Computer JVC Victor HC-7 MSX1 Computer Yamaha CX5M MSX1 [email protected] SpectraVideo 328 Computer*@ Tomy Tutor Computer*@ SEGA SG-1000 Game Console SEGA SC-1000II (replaced a TMS9118 VDP) Telegames Personal Arcade Powertran Cortex Computer * Note1: These systems are known to have the original VDP soldered directly to the system circuit board and will require desoldering and a socket installed. # Note2: The ADAM computer requires an "offset board" to keep the F18A inside the main PCB outline. This is an available option when ordering and F18A. @ Note3: These systems are known to require USR4 jumper removed because the main system uses the CPUCLK output from the VDP as the main system clock. ************************ F18A FIRMWARE Change Log ************************ F18A V1.9 Dec 31, 2018 (CRC: 147A) * Prepare for open source release. * Split up the original "core" to create a top-module for the stand-alone F18A, and a "main core" that can be used as part of a larger SoC. * Fixed the VGA horizontal timing error caused by treating the pixel time as 40ns instead of 39.68ns. Because events were being counted in "pixels", this caused the horizontal sync pulse to be slightly off, and the overall line time to be 32us instead of 31.746us. This error meant each line was around 6.4 pixels too long, and pushed the total frame rate to 59.2Hz. This error was enough to cause games to fail (Pole Position on the 99/4A), and some monitors to not sync properly when run through video converters. The timing error also caused many problems for the PAL ColecoVision. * Removed sprite-linking. This was an unused feature and helped free up FPGA resources to allow the core to better fit in the Spartan-3E 250K. * Removed programmable GROMCLK divisor. Unused feature, free up resources. * Register mode and cd_i inputs to CPU component. V1.8 - Aug 24, 2016 (CRC: F981) * Fixed sprite collision bug where sprite collisions were being incorrectly detected outside of the active display, after line 191 or 239 depending on the line mode. * Added hybrid VR write restriction to mask VR writes to three-bits when the F18A is locked, like the real 9918A does. However, if mode bit M4 is set (80-columns), writes to VRs over VR7 are *ignored* instead of masked to three-bits. This allows various 9938 programs to work (or continue to work), as well as continue to support TurboForth that writes to VRs 0..15 to set up 80-columns (if straight masking was used, VRs 8..15 would over-write VR 0..7). V1.7 - Jan 1, 2016 (CRC: A3B5) * Fixed Bitmap-Layer (BML) display bug * Fixed GPU's PIX instruction to properly calculate BML addresses * Added power-on graphic that shows the current firmware version V1.6 - Apr 26, 2015 (CRC: 40CC) * Removed fixed tile functionality * Removed border scroll limit functionality * Removed banner functionality * Removed host-side 32-bit counter * Removed host-side 32-bit RNG * Removed GPU 32-bit counter * Removed GPU 32-bit RNG * Removed the sprite "disable value" (>F8) in the sprite Y-location when ROW30 is enabled. * Added second tile layer with its own NTBA, h/v page sizes, and h/v scroll regs * Added ECM2/3 pattern table size selections for tiles and sprites. * Added host-side segmented counter with 10ns accuracy. * Added configurable HSYNC and VSYNC GPU triggers. * Added fat-pixel (2x1) with 16-color support to the bitmap layer (BML). * Added 1x1 page scroll support for T40 and T80 modes. * Added option to reset most VDP registers to their power-on values. * Added option to disable Tile Layer 1, which includes GM1, GM2, MCM, T40, and T80. Sprites, the BML, and TL2 are still active and can be enabled/disabled independently. * Added option to allow attribute byte to be fg/bg color select in T40 and T80. * Added per-position tile attribute support. * Added DMA capability to the GPU: 8xx0 - MSB src 8xx1 - LSB src 8xx2 - MSB dst 8xx3 - LSB dst 8xx4 - width 8xx5 - height 8xx6 - stride 8xx7 - 0..5 | !INC/DEC | !COPY/FILL 8xx8 - trigger FILL (active high) will read a single byte at the src address and fill the destination with that byte. src, dst, width, height, and stride are copied to dedicated counters when the DMA is triggered, thus the original values remain unchanged. * Added USR3 jumper to control GROMCLK/CPUCLK output on pin37 to provide support for 9128/29 * Added USR2 jumper to disable/enable simulated scan lines (every other VGA scan line has its color reduced by 50%.) Also controllable via a new VDP register bit. * Added a 5th sprite reporting option instead of reporting the max-sprite, which on the F18A might be different than the original VDP because all 32 sprites can be on a single scan line. * Added a new register (VR51) to limit the maximum sprite processed. This has nothing to do with the number of sprites that can be visible on a scan line, which is controlled by a separate register (VR30). This register is always active and can be used instead of the >D0 byte in the sprite Y-location, and is the only way to limit sprite processing early when ROW30 is enabled. * Changed the GPU interlock so that polling the VDP status register will not cause the GPU to pause. This should greatly increase GPU performance during heavy VDP interrupt polling. * Fixed T80 NTBA two LSbit problem. They are ignored (set to "00") when the F18A is locked to provide compatibility with the 9938 and avoid problem with software that set the two LSbits of the NTBA to other than "11" as the 9938 documentation specifies they should be. This limits the T80 name table to 4K boundaries. When the F18A is unlocked, all 4-bits of the NTBA are used and the T80 name table can be located on 1K boundaries. * Fixed the 5th number update during a scan line. As long as the 5S flag is zero, the 5th number register follows the sprite scanning sequence. Seems to be a transparent latch that follows the input (current sprite being scanned) until latched by the 5S flag. If the status register is being polled and 5S is reset mid frame, then the 5th number begins following the scanned sprites again. This bug is known to have affected Miner49er on the 99/4A. V1.5 - July 2013 Not really a *bug* fix since the problem it corrects exists on the real 9918A, and only has to do with sporadic collision bit reporting during heavy polling of the original 9918A VDP status register. This was discovered while Rasmus was writing Titanium. The 9918A was not designed to have its status register polled which is why it provides an interrupt output. I don't think the original 9918A designers took the hazard into consideration, but I decided to make this correction because it is what the original designers would have done given their preference (and I asked Karl Guttag about it). Thus, the F18A implements what you would consider the "expected behavior", and will work as expected where the original 9918A might not. I did not make this decision lightly. V1.4 - April 2013 Fixed the sprite collision bug and a GPU bug with the divide circuit. The sprite bug is mostly affected by XB when a program uses CALL COINC(ALL). Most assembly games probably don't rely on the collision bit alone for sprites and perform coordinate testing, which is most likely why the bug slipped through all the testing (and I tested with a *lot* of games on a lot of platforms). V1.3 - July 2012 Original release firmware. ******** UPDATING ******** The In-System firmware update is available for 99/4A users. I am very thankful to Rasums and Tursi for their help in making this possible. You can download the F18AUpdate_vXX.zip file below. Detailed instructions are available on my website here: http://codehackcreate.com/archives/418 Alternatively you can update your F18A in any system via a JTAG programming cable. You can purchase a JTAG programming cable for about $59 USD from Digilent: JTAG HS3 programming cable/ This is very inexpensive for a JTAG cable (my Xilinx-brand cable was over $250!), and Digilent makes quality gear. You also need the Xilinx ISE-Webpack tools: http://www.xilinx.com/support/download/index.htm This is a free download from Xilinx, but it is BIG! About 6GB the last time I checked. There is a smaller download that contains just the programming tools called "Lab Tools" and is only about 1G. I'm still looking for a smaller / simpler solution. You will have to create an account (which is free). The primary program you need is called IMPACT and is used to program the FPGA and SPI-flash. Once you get the tools installed, download and unzip the f18a_250k_vXX.zip file. In the zip file you will find the MCS file: f18a_250k_vXX.mcs The .mcs file is used to update the SPI-flash ROM attached to the FPGA. Here are the quick instructions. The term "system" means your 99/4A, ColecoVision, MSX, etc., and "PC" means the modern personal computer you are running the Xilinx tools on. 0. Make sure your system is powered OFF to begin 1. Open your system to get physical access to the F18A 2. Plug the JTAG programmer in to your PC (via USB) and the F18A (via JTAG) 3. Power ON your system 4. Launch the Xilinx IMPACT tool 5. Double-click on "Boundary Scan", then right-click in the main area and select "initialize chain" 6. The FPGA should be detected and show up in the big area. A window will open with device properties, just click "ok" 7. Above the FPGA icon should be a dotted line with "SPI/BPI ?" in it. Right-click on that box and select "Add SPI/BPI Flash..." 8. Navigate to the f18a_250k_vXX.mcs file you extracted from the .zip file and choose "Open" 9. Select "SPI PROM" and "M25P80" from the two drop-down selections and click "OK" 10. The box above the FPGA should now say "FLASH" in it. Right-click the box and select "Program" Once the programming is finished, cycle power on your system and make sure it comes up. ******** Examples ******** Included in the zip file is a demos disk that shows many of the enhanced features of the F18A. The source for all the programs are included. I did not write these programs and I am very thankful to Rasmus and Tursi for contributing them. rasmus_scroll.zip F18A documentation.pdf f18a_register_use.zip F18A_V19.zip
  6. This is more of a feeler listing as I would like to find out if it's possible to get a G5 1.6GHZ compatible AGP video card with at least 128MB VRAM(256 preferred, but dependent on cost) for a more reasonable amount of money than the +$100 listings i've seen on eBay. All things being equal, I would rather not dump a log of money into a machine that has somewhat of a checkered history as far as it's reliability is concerned. I don't have any hardware that I could use to flash an AGP video card myself, so I can't just buy a PC ROM card and flash it. As long as it works with my system and preferably has a VGA port in addition to DVI, I wouldn't mind a flashed GPU if it meant it was a bit cheaper. I was hoping to stay under $30 shipped if at all possible. Thanks for reading.
  7. I just acquired an Atari STFM with a SM124 and SC124 monitor. When starting it up for the first time, the monitor does power on as well as the computer, it accesses the floppy drive, but the video output is not working. See attached photo and video. The SM124 monitor has the white line but the SC124 has no video at all. Not sure if it's a monitor problem or an internal video card problem. Any ideas? thanks AtariSM124monitor_problem.mpg
  8. Hi all, Quick question. Is it possible to determine if a STFM motherboard is PAL or NTSC just by looking at it? I have a STFM from a member here which did not have a power supply. Got one ordered, but I noticed the bottom of the STFM case is european. It's possible that the case may have been changed at some point, but before spending any more money and while I wait for the PSU to arrive, it'll be nice to know... the only info from the motherboard is that it's a C070789-00 rev.C... Thanks!
  9. For years now I've been hoping to see a series like this for various retro computing platforms (Atari 800, Apple II, TRS-80 Model III, Fujitsu FM7, C64, VIC-20, Atari ST, TI-99, SG-3000, X68000, Acorn, BBC Micro, Color Computer, PC-88, Spectrum, Adam, etc...). https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLOT5j3ELi5BaSrb24fJEKvTqlRK4fg9wS In this case, it's for the Amiga. If others decide to make YouTube tutorial series' like this, please let me know. There are a bunch of platforms that I'd like to learn. And if someone can recommend a free video screen-capture utility that is Windows Vista compatible (and doesn't contain viruses), I may actually do more of these. Oh, and maybe an app that can add captions since YouTube is no longer offering annotation and captioning services as part of their site tools.
  10. Hi guys! I dug out my 800XL from my mom's house this past week and hooked it up to my Plasma TV using one of these Atari to Composite cables: https://www.8bitclassics.com/Atari-800-XL-XE-5-Pin-DIN-S-Video-Cable.html?search=AXL-SVIDEO However I cannot get it to work. The 800XL power light comes on but the TV just says no signal. I tried with both composite (Yellow, Red, White) and S-Video connections on the cables, and also tried composite on another LCDTV in the house. I also have two of the same cable converters linked above and both had same results. Same thing for all tests, "no signal" on TV. I am not sure what to do next. Is it likely that there is an issue with the monitor out on the 800XL? Or is it just that my TV's cannot recognize the signal? Maybe I need a different converter? What steps should I take next? I appreciate your help 8-biters! Gabriel
  11. SavyIsJoshoArts

    Oink! PAL

    From the album: Atari 2600 Gameplay on YPbPr Component

    High Score on Activision's Oink! Played on my Atari 2600 4-Switch Woodgrain Console modded using TimWorthington's 2600RGB Mod showing it in YPbPr Component Video Output.

    © SavyIsJoshoaArts aka Activision Man

  12. ARETHIUS

    JAMMER CD

    I just watched this video, quite funny but nothing to write home about. But at the end they talking about a piece of hardware I never heard about. The Jaguar Jugebox which "Allow you to have 6 games cardriges connected to yoru jaguar at the same time'. Ever heard of it ? Do you have info ? Pictures ?
  13. Now let me start by saying I have done extensive research into this. I'm aware of all ways of connecting an atari to a modern TV, but what I really need is an opinion on wether my specific issue is my own stupidity, or the TV just won't do it. The TV is: http://www.vizio.com/e65c3.html I'm using the RCA to coax adapter. Directly connecting it to the TV via coax and switching to this input yeilds no result. I connect the Atari to the input of a VCR, then connect the composite output to the TV. I can get the VCR to play tapes over the TV, both video and audio, but I cannot get the Atari to display through it. Is it possible that the VCR is not a good enough demodulator/converter for this modern of a TV? Is there usually some menu option you need to tinker with to get a digital TV to detect the input (either directly or through a VCR). Is it possible that this TV just doesn't have the capability I need to play the Atari on it?
  14. Other than TIP animation, has there even been any other serious attempts at a video decompression system for the Atari 8-bit? I've been thinking out (though not implementing) a lossy fractal method for compression (to do on the PC) and then decompressing on the 8-bit. One thing that I've considered is that on some frames, there may be too much to do in the 1 frame. But for such cases, I then considered that if you knew how many cycles each type of compressed item takes to decompress, you could get the compressor to prioritise what gets compressed in each frame. Then for the actual compression, you can encode whether an 8x8 or 4x8 square needs to be become more like some other square or not... (1 or 0 - with RLE). My inspiration came from this rotating video on the C64 at 28s on here:
  15. Hey all, I recently purchased a Philips VG8020/00 MSX Home Computer. I'm having some trouble getting a decent video signal out of the thing. When I hook it up to my VCR/DVD Combo via the RF out and convert the signal into composite, I get a glitchy screen, jumping from left to right, going from color to black and white. However, the MSX boot up text is present, and when I press keys on the keyboard, they do get added to the screen. I used the automatic tuning options on my VCR/DVD combo, but it sadly does not improve the quality. I also tried connecting a Sega Mega Drive RGB connector to the Monitor out on the computer, but that didn't do anything apart from making some pop noises. I might have to get a different cable to test that out. I also know for sure that my set-up isn't the problem; I've connected other coaxial game-consoles the same way (Atari 2600, Videopac G7000) and they all work. The unit looks fine and all (no mayor external damage). What I did notice though, was some noises inside the machine when I held it sideways; there could be some dirt in there. Also, some buttons get stuck from time to time (especially the directional buttons). I'll open it up and give it a good clean one of these days. Has anyone here experienced similar problems and got them solved? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! I hope the damage (if it has any) is not to severe; would be awesome to get it up and running again! Thanks!
  16. I found my original 800xl from when I was a kid in the garage. Did not have a power supply so I picked up a 61982 off ebay. When I turn it on I see scrambled video and hear a buzz. This happens when I use the RF out and when using composite out via the monitor port. I recently had a similar issue with a 2600 and swapping out the TIA worked. Could this be as easy as replacing the GTIA or does the buzzing indicate another issue?
  17. Here is a brief game play video I made of 3 of the games from Paddle Party: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LByTppo_E3s
  18. Gameplay video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIj5lgdvulc
  19. Hello Atari owners and modders. I'm trying to add an audio / composite output on my "new" atari 2600 (NTSC 4 switch), but I can't obtain any image... The console worked yesterday with RF output, but with no sound and a really weird/dirty b&w image. That's why I decided to add an A/V mod to permanently solve the problem. I think I choose the cheaper solution: 2 resistances and 1 transistor, similar to the easier-7800-composite-video-mod My circuit is the same as the solution proposed by brighty83 for a PAL version here (down of the page):http://retro.mmgn.co...ari-2600-AV-Mod I found the same cicuit on ebay, sellers detail the process on their installation guides for NTSC versions: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FAtari-2600-7800-Composite-Video-Mod-Upgrade-Kit-DIY-%2F300592126324 (see Installation Guides for atari 2600 4 switch) or http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.fr%2FAtari-2600-A-V-Composite-Video-Mod-Kit-NTSC-PAL-DIY-%2F181042624250%3Fpt%3DLH_DefaultDomain_0%26hash%3Ditem2a26fb36fa installation guide: http://www.filedropp...stallationguide (page 10 for NTSC 4 switch) Here is the circuit (sorry for the poor image quality): Video out and GND ---> Video RCA Audio out and GND ---> Audio RCA As mentionned on guides for NTSC 4 switch, I removed the RF box, Q202 and R209: The sound works well, but no images, it's so sad... I don't know what to do, and I'm dying about playing with it, in good conditions I mean. Some of you tried this mod? any idea ? Fujisama
  20. Basically, 1 More Castle is a new features-based collaborative gaming website focused on retro gaming. Check it out at 1MoreCastle.com! To learn more about what we are all about, consider: Reading the 1 More Castle Manifesto, checking out the roster of weekly contributors, or just follow the Twitter account @1MoreCastle. This is something I am very excited about, and could say a lot more of, but I just wanted to let you know that we want to be your favorite retro gaming website -- and are serious about making that ambition a reality. Starting next week, our talented team will be providing exclusive, high-quality features to the tune of two updates every day, one in the morning and one in the evening. We would love to see you there. A note specifically for AtariAge regulars: I know that I am definitely not an active member of this community and more of a lurker, but I wanted to let you know that Atari systems are definitely within our coverage. One of our team members is actually going to be doing nothing but a weekly Atari 2600 review, and I am already trying to gather guest pieces related to other Atari consoles from knowledgeable retro gamers out there. We hope to be a website that caters to your tastes as well.
  21. I have an auction of 38 games on ebay right now. 3 of the games are Boxed. Check it out! Lots of Rare games! eBay Auction -- Item Number: 280836758600 If you have any questions or concerns please contact me through ebay. Tyvm. Whit.
  22. Hi there, I´m looking for the equivalent of the "inverse video" key in any of the Atari 8-bit computer emulators. Hope you can give me a hand with this. - Y -
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