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Blogs

  • BinaryGoddess' Blog
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  • Bob's Blog
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  • Push Me, Pullman
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  • dgob123's INTV Blog
  • Random Terrain's Tetraternarium
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  • Being Of The Importance Of Shallow Musing.
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  • CollectorVision Blog
  • Ransom's Random Posts
  • www.toyratt.com's Blog
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  • For Next
  • Take 'Em To The Woodshed
  • bankockor Blog
  • Kelp Entertainment
  • 2600 Fun Blogs
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  • IHATETHEBEARS' BLOG
  • Atari Fan made Documentary
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  • THE 1 2 P's Demo/Import/Gaming Blog
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  • enyalives' Blog
  • Mirage1972's Blog
  • blogs_blog_286
  • The Word Of Ogma
  • GC's blog
  • nanobug's monument of geekiness
  • dogcorn's Blog
  • I Can't Think of a Catchy Title
  • please help and share story
  • ivop's Blog
  • what is the chicago basment
  • Cheat Blog
  • zeropolis79's Blog
  • My video game library
  • the.golden.ax's "Oh my Blog"
  • ValuGamer
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  • jwierer's Blog
  • kroogur's Korner
  • Verbal Compost
  • Frizo's Collecting Adventure!
  • Old School Gamer Review
  • ...
  • Rybags' Blog
  • BDW's Blog
  • tweetmemory's Blog
  • toptenmaterial's Blog
  • grafix's Bit Mouse Playhouse
  • S1500's Blog
  • hackerb9's blog
  • EricBall's Tech Projects (PRIVATE)
  • MagitekAngel's Blog
  • I created this second blog on accident and now I can't figure out how to delete it.
  • keilbaca's Blog
  • TestBot4's Blog
  • Old School Gamer Review
  • The Mario Blog
  • GideonsDad's Blog
  • GideonsDad's Blog
  • GideonsDad's Blog
  • Horst's Blog
  • JIMPACK's Blog
  • Blogpocalypse
  • simonl's Blog
  • creeping insanity
  • Sonic R's Blog
  • CebusCapucinis' Blog
  • Syntax Terror Games
  • NCN's Blog
  • A Wandering Shadow's Travels
  • Arjak's Blog
  • 2600Lives' Blog
  • 2600Lives' Blog
  • Kiwi's Blog
  • Stephen's A8 Blog
  • Zero One
  • Troglodyte's Blog
  • Austin's Blog
  • Robert Hurst
  • This Is Reality Control
  • Animan's Blog Of Unusual Objectionalities
  • Devbinks' Blog
  • a1t3r3g0's Blog
  • The 7800 blog
  • 4Ks' Blog
  • carmel_andrews' Blog
  • iratanam's Blog
  • junkmail's RDE&P Blog
  • Lynxman's FlashCard Blog
  • JagMX's Blog
  • The Wreckening
  • roberto's Blog
  • Incagold's Blog
  • lost blog
  • kurtzzzz's Blog
  • Guitarman's Blog
  • Robert @ AtariAge
  • otaku's Blog
  • otaku's Blog
  • revolutionika's Blog
  • thund3r's Blog
  • edweird13's Blog
  • edweird13's Blog
  • That's what she said.
  • Hitachi's Blog
  • The (hopefully) weekly rant
  • Goochman's Marketplace Blog
  • Marc Oberhäuser's Blog
  • Masquane's AtariAge Blog
  • satan165's Dusty Video Game Museum
  • lazyhoboguy's Blog
  • Retail hell (The EB years)
  • Vectrexer's Blog
  • Game Maker to Game Dev
  • Retro Gaming Corporation
  • Hulsie's Blog
  • Tr3vor's Blog
  • Dryfter's Blog
  • Why Are You Even Reading This?
  • Xuel's Blog
  • GamingMagz
  • travelvietnam's Blog
  • pacmanplayer's Blog
  • TheLunarFox's Blog
  • caver's Blog
  • Atari 2600 for sale with 7 games 2 controllers
  • A Ramblin' Man
  • toiletunes' Blog
  • Justin Payne's Blog
  • ebot
  • Markvergeer's Blog
  • GEOMETRY WARS ATARI 2600
  • LEW2600's Blog
  • Pac-Man Vs Puck-Man's Blog
  • Bri's House
  • Les Frères Baudrand's Blog
  • Secure Your E-Commerce Business With ClickSSL.com
  • raskar42
  • The P3 Studio
  • Bydo's Blog
  • defender666's Blog
  • TheSSLstore - SSL certificates Validity
  • Chuplayer's Blog
  • pacman100000's Blog
  • POKEY experiments
  • JPjuice23's Blog
  • Gary Mc's Blog
  • arkade kid's Blog
  • MaXStaR's Blog
  • SUB HUNTER in A8
  • ScumSoft's Blog
  • The Social Gamer
  • Ping. Pong. Ping. Pong.
  • kgenthe's Blog
  • mapleleaves' Blog
  • Dallas' Blog
  • bfg.gamepassion's Blog
  • Esplonky's Blog
  • Fashion Jewellery's Blog
  • Gabriel's Blog
  • CJ's Ramblings
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  • dobidy's Blog
  • dragging through the retro streets at dawn
  • Please Delete - Created by Accident
  • Nerdbloggers
  • Algus' Blog
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  • Appliciousblog.com
  • frederick's Blog
  • longleg's Blog
  • Brain droppings...
  • Sandra's blog
  • Bastelbutze
  • polo
  • VectorGamer's Blog
  • Maybe its a Terrible Tragedy
  • Guru Meditation
  • - - - - - -
  • The 12 Turn Program: Board Game Addiction and You
  • Tezz's projects blog
  • chonglily's Blog
  • masseo1's Blog
  • DCUltrapro's Blog
  • Disjaukifa's Blog
  • Vic George 2K3's Blog
  • Whoopdeedoo
  • ge.twik's Blog
  • DJT's High Score Blog [Test]
  • Disjaukifa's Assembly Blog
  • GonzoGamer's Blog
  • MartinP's Blog
  • marshaz's Blog
  • Pandora Jewelry's Blog
  • Blues76's Blog
  • Adam24's AtariAge Blog!
  • w1k's Blog
  • 8-bit-dreams' Blog
  • Computer Help
  • Chris++'s Blog
  • an atari story
  • JDRose
  • raz0red's Blog
  • The Forth Files
  • The Forth Files
  • A.L.L.'s Blog
  • Frankodragon's Blog Stuffs
  • Partyhaus
  • kankan313rd's Blog
  • n8littlefield's Blog
  • joshuawins99's Blog
  • ¡Viva Atari!
  • FujiSkunk's Blog
  • The hunt for the PAL Heavy Sixer
  • Liduario's Blog
  • kakpu's Blog
  • HSC Experience
  • people to fix atari Blog
  • Gronka's Blog
  • Joey Z's Atari Projects
  • cncfreak's Blog
  • Ariana585's Blog
  • 8BitBites.com
  • BrutallyHonestGamer's Blog
  • falcon_'s Blog
  • lushgirl_80's Blog
  • Lynx Links
  • bomberpunk's Blog
  • CorBlog
  • My Ideas/Rants
  • quetch's Blog
  • jamvans game hunting blog
  • CannibalCat's Blog
  • jakeLearns' Blog
  • DSC927's Blog
  • jetset's Blog
  • wibblebibble's Basic Blog
  • retrovideogamecollector's Blog
  • Sonny Rae's Blog
  • The Golden Age Arcade Historian
  • dianefox's Blog
  • DOMnation's Blog
  • segagamer99's Blog
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  • craftsmanMIKE's Blog
  • gorf68's Blog
  • Gnuberubs Sojourn Dev Journal
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  • iesposta's Blog
  • Cool 'n' Crispy: The Blog of Iceberg_Lettuce
  • ahuffman's Blog
  • Bergum's Thoughts Blog
  • marminer's Blog
  • BubsyFan101 n CO's Pile Of Game Picks
  • I like to rant.
  • Cleaning up my 2600
  • AnimaInCorpore's Blog
  • Space Centurion's Blog
  • Coleco Pacman Simulator (CPMS)
  • ianoid's Blog
  • HLO projects
  • Retro Junky Garage
  • Sega Genesis/Mega Drive High Score Club
  • Prixel Derp
  • HuckleCat's Blog
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  • VVHQ
  • Antichambre's Blog
  • REMOVED BY LAW AUTHORITY
  • Synthpop Universe
  • Atari 5200 Joystick Controllers
  • Top 10 Atari 2600 Games
  • Is Atari Still Cool?
  • Buying Atari on Ebay
  • matosimi's Blog
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  • The StarrLab
  • Scooter83 aka Atari 8 Bit Game Hunters' Blog
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  • Gamming
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  • Manoau2002 Game and Vinyl Blog
  • Diamond in the Rough
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  • Atari 2600 Lab
  • jennyjames' Blog
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  • MegaData Manifesto
  • Selling Atari on Ebay.
  • Unfinished Bitness
  • TI-99/4A Stuff
  • eshu's blog
  • LaXDragon's Blog
  • GozAtari8
  • Bio's Blog of Randomness
  • Out of the Pack
  • Paul Lay's Blog
  • Make Atari 2600 games w/o programming!
  • Rudy's Blog
  • kenjennings' Blog
  • The Game Pit
  • PShunny's Blog
  • Ezeray's Blog
  • Atari 2600 game maps
  • Crazy Climber Metal
  • Keith Makes Games
  • A virtual waste of virtual space
  • TheHoboInYourRoom's Blog
  • Msp Cheats Tips And Techniques To Create You A Better Gamer
  • Tursi's Blog
  • F#READY's Blog
  • bow830
  • Gernots A500 game reviews
  • Byte's Blog
  • The Atari Strikes Back
  • no code, only games now
  • wongojack's Blog
  • Lost Dragon's Blog
  • Musings of the White Lion
  • The Usotsuki Crunch
  • Gunstar's Blogs
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  • Atari Randomness
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  • --- Ω ---'s Blog
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  • Zsuttle's gaming adventures
  • Doctor Clu's Space Shows
  • TWO PRINTERS ONE ADAM
  • Atari Jaguar Game Mascots
  • Learning fbForth 2.0
  • splendidnut's Blog
  • The Atari Jaguar Game by Game Podcast
  • Syzygy's Story Blog
  • Atarian Video Game Reviews
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  • player1"NOT"ready's Blog
  • Alexandru George's Blog
  • BraggProductions' Blog
  • XDK.development present Microsoft Xbox One Development
  • Song I Wake Up To
  • Jeffrey.Shamblin's Blog
  • Important people who shaped the TI 99/4A World
  • My blog of stuff and things
  • David Vella's Blog
  • Osgeld's Blog
  • CyranoJ's ST Ports
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  • Star_Wars_Collector
  • Alp's Art Blog
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  • Retro VGS Coleco Chameleon Timeline
  • Geoff Retro Gamer
  • Geoff1980's Blog
  • Coleco Mini
  • Coleco Mini
  • 7399MGM's Blog
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  • Ballblogɀer
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  • Fultonbot's Atari Blog
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  • Kaug Neatos Crash Bandicoot Bandwagon
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  • Atari 2600JS
  • Doctor Clu's Dissertations
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  • Atarimuseum.nl
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  • Arcade Attack - Retro Gaming Blog
  • MrRetroGamer's Blog
  • GG's Game Dev, Homebrew Review, Etc. Log
  • dazza's arcade machine games
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  1. I'm starting this thread as a means to hopefully promote some F18A development, answer specific questions about programming the F18A, and finally as place to look for links to updated documentation and eventually firmware updates. This first post will always have the latest documents and updates attached, so there is no need to go digging through the thread to find the most recent information. I also hope it will contain questions, answers, and code examples. I would like to keep this thread technical and on-topic, so if you have other general F18A questions or comments, please start a new thread or use the other existing F18A thread. * Documentation: On-going. This is something I hope to complete, but until then Rasmus has collected many of the F18A programming posts from the forum and created PDF of them (thank you Rasmus!) See the files attached to this thread, and please ask F18A technical questions in this thread. The main F18A webpage (http://codehackcreate.com/archives/30) has the main feature list, as well as an initial post to getting started with programming the F18A. As I add documentation, I will post it on the website first, then make an update here to let anyone interested know there is something new. * Register Use Spreadsheet: Libre Office / Open Office .ods format. This is the primary spreadsheet I used while developing the F18A, and all functionality was documented in the spreadsheet first, then converted into HDL. That means the spreadsheet is always up to date with respect to the F18A's functionality. While some of the F18A's features require more documentation to use, much of the functionality is very self explanatory and can be used just by looking at the spreadsheet and reading the notes. For example, it does not take much to guessing to figure out what the "horizontal scroll register" does. ************* COMPATIBILITY ************* Pin-compatible replacement for the TMS9918A, 9928, 9929, and TMS9118 Video Data Processors. The F18A has been tested in the following systems: TI-99/4A Home Computer ColecoVison Game Console* ColecoVision ADAM Computer# Toshiba HX-10 MSX1 Computer Toshiba Pasopia-IQ MSX1 Computer JVC Victor HC-7 MSX1 Computer Yamaha CX5M MSX1 Computer@ SpectraVideo 328 Computer*@ Tomy Tutor Computer*@ SEGA SG-1000 Game Console SEGA SC-1000II (replaced a TMS9118 VDP) Telegames Personal Arcade Powertran Cortex Computer * Note1: These systems are known to have the original VDP soldered directly to the system circuit board and will require desoldering and a socket installed. # Note2: The ADAM computer requires an "offset board" to keep the F18A inside the main PCB outline. This is an available option when ordering and F18A. @ Note3: These systems are known to require USR4 jumper removed because the main system uses the CPUCLK output from the VDP as the main system clock. ************************ F18A FIRMWARE Change Log ************************ F18A V1.9 Dec 31, 2018 (CRC: 147A) * Prepare for open source release. * Split up the original "core" to create a top-module for the stand-alone F18A, and a "main core" that can be used as part of a larger SoC. * Fixed the VGA horizontal timing error caused by treating the pixel time as 40ns instead of 39.68ns. Because events were being counted in "pixels", this caused the horizontal sync pulse to be slightly off, and the overall line time to be 32us instead of 31.746us. This error meant each line was around 6.4 pixels too long, and pushed the total frame rate to 59.2Hz. This error was enough to cause games to fail (Pole Position on the 99/4A), and some monitors to not sync properly when run through video converters. The timing error also caused many problems for the PAL ColecoVision. * Removed sprite-linking. This was an unused feature and helped free up FPGA resources to allow the core to better fit in the Spartan-3E 250K. * Removed programmable GROMCLK divisor. Unused feature, free up resources. * Register mode and cd_i inputs to CPU component. V1.8 - Aug 24, 2016 (CRC: F981) * Fixed sprite collision bug where sprite collisions were being incorrectly detected outside of the active display, after line 191 or 239 depending on the line mode. * Added hybrid VR write restriction to mask VR writes to three-bits when the F18A is locked, like the real 9918A does. However, if mode bit M4 is set (80-columns), writes to VRs over VR7 are *ignored* instead of masked to three-bits. This allows various 9938 programs to work (or continue to work), as well as continue to support TurboForth that writes to VRs 0..15 to set up 80-columns (if straight masking was used, VRs 8..15 would over-write VR 0..7). V1.7 - Jan 1, 2016 (CRC: A3B5) * Fixed Bitmap-Layer (BML) display bug * Fixed GPU's PIX instruction to properly calculate BML addresses * Added power-on graphic that shows the current firmware version V1.6 - Apr 26, 2015 (CRC: 40CC) * Removed fixed tile functionality * Removed border scroll limit functionality * Removed banner functionality * Removed host-side 32-bit counter * Removed host-side 32-bit RNG * Removed GPU 32-bit counter * Removed GPU 32-bit RNG * Removed the sprite "disable value" (>F8) in the sprite Y-location when ROW30 is enabled. * Added second tile layer with its own NTBA, h/v page sizes, and h/v scroll regs * Added ECM2/3 pattern table size selections for tiles and sprites. * Added host-side segmented counter with 10ns accuracy. * Added configurable HSYNC and VSYNC GPU triggers. * Added fat-pixel (2x1) with 16-color support to the bitmap layer (BML). * Added 1x1 page scroll support for T40 and T80 modes. * Added option to reset most VDP registers to their power-on values. * Added option to disable Tile Layer 1, which includes GM1, GM2, MCM, T40, and T80. Sprites, the BML, and TL2 are still active and can be enabled/disabled independently. * Added option to allow attribute byte to be fg/bg color select in T40 and T80. * Added per-position tile attribute support. * Added DMA capability to the GPU: 8xx0 - MSB src 8xx1 - LSB src 8xx2 - MSB dst 8xx3 - LSB dst 8xx4 - width 8xx5 - height 8xx6 - stride 8xx7 - 0..5 | !INC/DEC | !COPY/FILL 8xx8 - trigger FILL (active high) will read a single byte at the src address and fill the destination with that byte. src, dst, width, height, and stride are copied to dedicated counters when the DMA is triggered, thus the original values remain unchanged. * Added USR3 jumper to control GROMCLK/CPUCLK output on pin37 to provide support for 9128/29 * Added USR2 jumper to disable/enable simulated scan lines (every other VGA scan line has its color reduced by 50%.) Also controllable via a new VDP register bit. * Added a 5th sprite reporting option instead of reporting the max-sprite, which on the F18A might be different than the original VDP because all 32 sprites can be on a single scan line. * Added a new register (VR51) to limit the maximum sprite processed. This has nothing to do with the number of sprites that can be visible on a scan line, which is controlled by a separate register (VR30). This register is always active and can be used instead of the >D0 byte in the sprite Y-location, and is the only way to limit sprite processing early when ROW30 is enabled. * Changed the GPU interlock so that polling the VDP status register will not cause the GPU to pause. This should greatly increase GPU performance during heavy VDP interrupt polling. * Fixed T80 NTBA two LSbit problem. They are ignored (set to "00") when the F18A is locked to provide compatibility with the 9938 and avoid problem with software that set the two LSbits of the NTBA to other than "11" as the 9938 documentation specifies they should be. This limits the T80 name table to 4K boundaries. When the F18A is unlocked, all 4-bits of the NTBA are used and the T80 name table can be located on 1K boundaries. * Fixed the 5th number update during a scan line. As long as the 5S flag is zero, the 5th number register follows the sprite scanning sequence. Seems to be a transparent latch that follows the input (current sprite being scanned) until latched by the 5S flag. If the status register is being polled and 5S is reset mid frame, then the 5th number begins following the scanned sprites again. This bug is known to have affected Miner49er on the 99/4A. V1.5 - July 2013 Not really a *bug* fix since the problem it corrects exists on the real 9918A, and only has to do with sporadic collision bit reporting during heavy polling of the original 9918A VDP status register. This was discovered while Rasmus was writing Titanium. The 9918A was not designed to have its status register polled which is why it provides an interrupt output. I don't think the original 9918A designers took the hazard into consideration, but I decided to make this correction because it is what the original designers would have done given their preference (and I asked Karl Guttag about it). Thus, the F18A implements what you would consider the "expected behavior", and will work as expected where the original 9918A might not. I did not make this decision lightly. V1.4 - April 2013 Fixed the sprite collision bug and a GPU bug with the divide circuit. The sprite bug is mostly affected by XB when a program uses CALL COINC(ALL). Most assembly games probably don't rely on the collision bit alone for sprites and perform coordinate testing, which is most likely why the bug slipped through all the testing (and I tested with a *lot* of games on a lot of platforms). V1.3 - July 2012 Original release firmware. ******** UPDATING ******** The In-System firmware update is available for 99/4A users. I am very thankful to Rasums and Tursi for their help in making this possible. You can download the F18AUpdate_vXX.zip file below. Detailed instructions are available on my website here: http://codehackcreate.com/archives/418 Alternatively you can update your F18A in any system via a JTAG programming cable. You can purchase a JTAG programming cable for about $59 USD from Digilent: JTAG HS3 programming cable/ This is very inexpensive for a JTAG cable (my Xilinx-brand cable was over $250!), and Digilent makes quality gear. You also need the Xilinx ISE-Webpack tools: http://www.xilinx.com/support/download/index.htm This is a free download from Xilinx, but it is BIG! About 6GB the last time I checked. There is a smaller download that contains just the programming tools called "Lab Tools" and is only about 1G. I'm still looking for a smaller / simpler solution. You will have to create an account (which is free). The primary program you need is called IMPACT and is used to program the FPGA and SPI-flash. Once you get the tools installed, download and unzip the f18a_250k_vXX.zip file. In the zip file you will find the MCS file: f18a_250k_vXX.mcs The .mcs file is used to update the SPI-flash ROM attached to the FPGA. Here are the quick instructions. The term "system" means your 99/4A, ColecoVision, MSX, etc., and "PC" means the modern personal computer you are running the Xilinx tools on. 0. Make sure your system is powered OFF to begin 1. Open your system to get physical access to the F18A 2. Plug the JTAG programmer in to your PC (via USB) and the F18A (via JTAG) 3. Power ON your system 4. Launch the Xilinx IMPACT tool 5. Double-click on "Boundary Scan", then right-click in the main area and select "initialize chain" 6. The FPGA should be detected and show up in the big area. A window will open with device properties, just click "ok" 7. Above the FPGA icon should be a dotted line with "SPI/BPI ?" in it. Right-click on that box and select "Add SPI/BPI Flash..." 8. Navigate to the f18a_250k_vXX.mcs file you extracted from the .zip file and choose "Open" 9. Select "SPI PROM" and "M25P80" from the two drop-down selections and click "OK" 10. The box above the FPGA should now say "FLASH" in it. Right-click the box and select "Program" Once the programming is finished, cycle power on your system and make sure it comes up. ******** Examples ******** Included in the zip file is a demos disk that shows many of the enhanced features of the F18A. The source for all the programs are included. I did not write these programs and I am very thankful to Rasmus and Tursi for contributing them. rasmus_scroll.zip F18A documentation.pdf f18a_register_use.zip F18A_V19.zip
  2. Ladies and Gents, at the request of one of the members here I am posting some photos of the TIM video upgrade that was produced by OPA back in the 'day'. I have had this in storage since 1999 and used it during the mid-90's. Also find attached a couple of photos of the SOB that was sold to go along with the TIM and if you have PC99 you can play with the included SOB console grom upgrade, in it.
  3. ok so i got my hands on a atari 2600 from my father about a week ago and wanted to start setting it up and playing games like adventure and stuff as i have tons of games that came with it. ive been looking at videos and trying to figure out what i need to buy but before i start spending money and wasting time i just figured to just ask. i saw alot of videos using a old vcr and was wondering if there was a way to have something that does the job but smaller as that would be ridiculos otherwise i also know i need a upscaler for 1080p and the rf to coax converter but is there anything out there that does it all without the wires everywhere or anything like that thats smaller
  4. Got a Unicron from ebay. Initially I could not get any video upon power up. After testing the power supply, cables, and the voltage regulator successfully, I decided to fiddle with the pot on the RF modulator with my hex screwdriver. It started to turn and I did get some video but now it broke and released this graphite-looking pieces. I don't think it turns anymore. What is the most logical course of action here? Is there an easy fix for this pot? Or do I go with composite mod knowing that the machine is working? This is the only reference I could find online regarding modding a unicorn. https://theokoulis.com/index.php/2018/09/27/the-unicorn/ Ps. I was hoping it landed on a different frequency around channels 2 and 3 but reprogramming TV did not work.
  5. Hi - Falcon 030 newbie here... My new to me Falcon has no video cable/adapter. What are the best options for video connectivity? I understand connection to a VGA monitor is the way to go. Are there any requirements for the monitor (like the 15Khz requirement for the Atari ST monitors)? Can I build my own VGA cable or does one require some logic board? TIA! -dan
  6. Saw this video on YouTube and thought I would share it here and see if we can get some discussion going. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fk4GKXY2wwM Now, I love Gyruss. One of my all time fav arcade games. (And Time Pilot -- no wonder they were done by the same person who went on to do Street Fighter for Capcom.) The action was fast and furious with rich sound and that wonderfull Bach music which the dedicated chips in the machine handled. I played a little bit of various 8-bit versions as a kid, but none of them felt like they did it justice. The NES version was very good but it was a 'remix' of the arcade version instead of a straight port, like the other versions tried. I never felt the game was really done justice in any home versions (not including MAME) until it was added on XBox Live. The 'enhanced' version on the GBA Konami Arcade Classics with the extra stages was also very good and a fav of mine. Now, in Gyruss's defense -- this is a REALLY hard game for any of the 8-bits to do very well. It's a demanding game, with some punishing requirements -- all those enemies and shots and AI paterns and trying to duplicate the rich Bach music. The programers, IMHO, did the best they could. So which version was your favorite, or which one 'seems' best to you?
  7. Hi there, I´m looking for the equivalent of the "inverse video" key in any of the Atari 8-bit computer emulators. Hope you can give me a hand with this. - Y -
  8. Clean Sweep MB Vectrex FACTORY SEALED New NOS Complete CIB with game Box Protector Start BID :US $44.44 Instant (BIN): US $200.00 Also open to Offers via AtariAge. . https://www.ebay.com/itm/256161023598 . #vectrex #factory #sealed #video #game
  9. A while back, I had the idea that it might be possible to install a UAV in a 5200 without needing to also drill the case (or expansion port cover) to install A/V jacks. The goals were as follows: No case drilling of any kind RF shields to remain in place Composite, S-Video, and audio outputs to be fully-functional RF to remain intact and functional as backup video output Achievable with off-the-shelf parts How to install a UAV won't be directly covered here; there are a ton of other resources out there that explain the process better than I could. This is currently a work in progress (the audio board and 4050 need to be installed), but so far it's going very well. Some photos: A rough idea of how the cable routing will work; more on that below. Wiring at the UAV. More on that below as well. And, finally, the A/V cabling coiled in the factory RF cable location: Regarding some of the points mentioned above: Cable routing: if keeping the RF shields (recommended), the upper shield will need to have a hole made in it somewhere to route the cabling through. I haven't decided yet if I'll run it through the side or the top, but that's a relatively minor consideration. UAV wiring: had I been thinking when the UAV was ordered, I would have gone for the kit and not the plug-in version. The green terminal block would have been substituted for right-angle header pins, and Dupont connectors used for A/V connections instead of the standard screw-downs. The jumper block that's on there now would also have been deleted, each location would have been manually jumpered, and the 4050 would have been installed into a socket running above the jumpers. A/V cabling: fits in the clip / channel in the case intended to carry the RF cable and loops without issue around the stock retainers. It's only a 6' cable, which is good from the standpoint of being able to do this, but extension cables may be required depending on how far back from the display you want to be. Other than that, it's going very well so far. Parts used are: UAV. Got that one from The Brewing Academy. Ditto the Internal Audio Board. 8-Bit Classics' Atari XL/XE 5-Pin DIN S-Video & Composite AV Cable. These can also be found elsewhere without the DIN-5 monitor connector used on the A8 machines. Jumper wires with Dupont connectors. I used these ones from Adafruit because they were what I had available.
  10. Hi guys. I'm working on a remake of Let's Compare ( Donkey Kong ). The original video is out of date & I need to upgrade it. I'm looking for either the ROMS or good clean video footage of all 4 levels from the updated Intellivision version & The arcade version for the colecovision. The new video will be hi def & 60 fps. Any help would be greatly appreciated & I'll include any help in the credits. Thanks guys. Gaming History Source
  11. I recently decided to unbox and expand my Atari 8-bit collection. Lacking a suitable CRT television or monitor, I bought a BenQ GW2480 LCD monitor to use with a Tendak composite/s-video to HDMI converter I already had. I also moved an old SVHS VCR onto the workbench, to use with a 600XL and any computers without functional monitor ports, and I bought a pair of Atari monitor-to-RCA & S-Video cables from TBA. When I connected a 130XE to the video converter with a monitor cable using S-Video, I was disappointed to see a B&W READY prompt. I had the same result with composite and via the RF modulator and VCR, I tried the other monitor cable (which wouldn't affect RF anyway), and adjusting R38 did nothing. (As an aside, I checked the voltage off pin 17 of the GTIA, per Sams Computerfacts, and saw a range of 0V to 8V, suggesting R38 is fine.) The video converter displays color bars when no input signal is detected, I successfully displayed an old Android media streamer via composite, and the VCR's menu has a blue background over S-Video and composite, so there's no inherent problem with color between the converter's inputs and the monitor. I then checked an 800 (composite, from the monitor port, and RF) and 600XL (RF) with the same results: B&W only. I've had the 130XE for more than a decade, but the 800 and 600XL I just bought from separate sellers, and the 600XL had photos (purportedly) of the computer displaying in color on a television. It's possible all three computers now have problems with their color circuitry, but that is very unlikely, and suggests a compatibility issue with the HDMI video converter. I opened the Tendak converter and it's all surface mount components-- no potentiometers, dipswitches, or other configurables. I've ordered a new unit (different manufacturer), and will report back. Have any of you experienced this?
  12. Hello, I know this is a strange dual platform question. But I am thinking of adding a S-Video mod to both my 7800 and 800XL. From what I can see there is the UAV (800XL and 7800) and the Spectre AV (800XL) ones available. The idea in both cases is to run these through a Retrotink 5x. As I am not the best at soldering, I wonder if anyone can recommend someone who could mod the machines in Europe? Both are PAL devices, and I would prefer an EU based company/person in order to avoid customs issues. However, non-EU could be tolerated 🙂 It would be ideal if the same company/person could do both machines.
  13. I'm thinking of firing up one of my old Atari computers but don't have an old monitor or TV. Are there converters out there that will convert the Atari video output to VGA? HDMI would be OK I guess, but VGA suits what I have better right now. As I recall, the Atari 800 had both composite video and RGB available. Plus a modulator to convert the composite video to TV channel 2. BTW, I have seen some boards on eBay and AliExpress that look promising, but the product descriptions are hard to follow. I'd like to be reasonably sure the gadget has a chance of working before I buy it. Regards, Nick "the SIO2PC guy"
  14. On the NTSC Atari 600XL the only video output is RF and the picture quality is really not very good, at all, not in the least, bad. So I thought maybe, if I want to use this 600XL for anything more than a prop, I might want to replace the video with something better. After looking around I chose the UAV by https://thebrewingacademy.com/ due to it’s simplistically and it’s cheap at only $30. Plus it has one of the best pictures I have ever seen for a composite output. Installation: (My work area) NOTE: This information covers the installation of the UAV composite and the way I installed it for NTSC 600XL ONLY. There are other ways to install the device but this is the way I choose. I am not responsible for any problems you may have following these instructions. I tried my best to make as clear as possible. So there. The UAV comes several ways. I chose the pre-built drop in as it’s the simplest. The package comes with all you need to drop in install (except what’s needed for sound). FYI: here is the link to the manual: http://www.thebrewingacademy.net/UAV_manuals.zip The manual covers ALL the various machines that the UAV can be installed in giving not too much space for any one type. Read over the manual but don’t expect a step by step install. Now my installation. Of course the first thing I did was open up the computer (seen in picture above). The blue wiring is the 64k upgrade I previously did. The UAV is a little board that plugs into the slot of one of the chips you remove. Then you add some wires and 3 solder points (if install like I did). Here is the board. I put tape over the top and bottom because there isn’t much clearance in the 600Xl and didn’t want to chance a short. Top view. Bottom view. Notice an extension on the bottom pins. This is so that the chip will clear a line of resistors just in front of the chip. I found the extension to be a bit unstable so later I took it off and the board set just fine. Remove the chip U19 as this is where the board will be plugged in. The UART socket is in the black box. Notice I have put electrical tape around the resistors in front of the plug. I found that playing around with placement of the board these resistors tended to want to push against each other and short. The tape kept that from happening. Next to the UART socket I have a green wire soldered to a resistor. This wire will be attached to the UAV board later and supplies the color signal. This is the board plugged into the socket. You will be attaching wires to that green header in a bit. Notice the jumpers I had tape on in a previous picture. Refer to the manual on the placement of those jumpers for the 600XL. The board does not come with the jumpers set for the 600XL so you will have the change them. Little trivia, to the left you will see places for several missing components. This is the missing composite circuitry NOT found in the NTSC version of the 600XL. For my installation I removed the RF module and the channel selector switch. Location is next to where the channel switch was. This is where I take the sound off of. I soldered in two pins to plug the sound cables into for easy removal. Pin on left is ground. OK, I know I’m going to get a lot of gruff for this but I didn’t solder in a 5 pin plug for this install. Reasons, I plan to only use the composite so most of the other pins would not have been used since I had no way of utilizing the S-Video capabilities of splitting the Luma and Chroma. Also I already had a dual RCA plug. Anyway, here is where you plug the wires into the board and the sound. I cut holes for the RCA plugs and mounted the board on the back of the 600XL where the RF plug was. AND IT WORKS. The finished product. That’s it. That’s all there is to installing the UAV the way I did it. Hope this helps. Good luck.
  15. Take a rare look at our favorite vintage Atari 2600 boxes and cover art with The Immortal John Hancock & Metal Jesus Rocks. GAMES SHOWN: Marauder Demon Attack Tanks but no Tanks Threshold Pitfall! (signed by David Crane) Mega Force Missile Command Radar Lock Vanguard Return of the Jedi: Death Star Battle Gyruss Space Invaders Tac/Scan Dark Chambers I realize on this particular forum, the boxes may not be unusual...but for most casual collectors...they rarely see some of these boxes. What did you guys think of the video?
  16. I've tried this app called Video Game Price Charts. Has anyone else tried this? Is it accurate?
  17. So I have been working on a Atari 2600 I have done the cap kit and the RF upgrade. I get a perfect image for a little bit then fads to dark. After have on a little longer the screen gets messed up. After that I loose the image all together but still have sound(sound is scratchy). I have pulled the chips to try and reset them. At this point I am at a lose. Does any one have any ideas what to try next? Thanks
  18. Have spent a long time waiting for an original Magnavox Odyssey video cable to come up for sale, or looking for other Magnavox consoles with the same weird proprietary AV connector with no luck. So I think the most practical solution is probably to solder an RF cable to the back of the board (seems like there's only two points to be soldered - ground plane and video signal) and connect it up to a composite demodulator/VCR. Wouldn't have been my first choice as I'd like to keep the console in stock condition, but I'm sure it'll be fine. Does anyone happen to know what the length of the original video cable was? Just want to make sure I leave enough slack when it goes into my setup, as the controller cables are quite short. Many thanks @Boojakascha @Mikebloke @Odysseus
  19. Definitely a work in progress, but I wanted to make a video to show where things stood with the beta version of the #ColecoAdam #FujiNet, including seeing the CP/M tools. Enjoy
  20. Morning all, poster from Ireland here, TLDR version: I am utterly clueless when it comes to AV hook-ups for the original Odyssey (and also when it comes power networking more generally). Would really appreciate if someone could review my Youtube/Wikipedia research, so I don't destroy a vintage console. The Console: I have an original Magnavox Odyssey (1972) that I picked up from another guy living in Ireland. I don't know much about Magnavox's distribution history (was the idea of PAL consoles even a thing back in 1972? ) but I'm assuming it's a standard NTSC unit that was imported, as there's a sticker on the bottom saying 120V/60Hz. The guy I bought it from just had it out on display, so there's no game power cord or antenna game switch with it, and I'm just trying to figure out what my best options are to power it on (without wearing out the battery compartment), and connecting it to a CRT. Power (Problem): In Ireland, we run the UK-style "Type G" electrical sockets, that output a standard supply of 230 volts AC (frequency 50Hz). I do have a step-down transformer but would prefer not to use it if possible, as it heats up very quickly. So I guess what I'm looking for is a) a modern power supply that can accept an input range of 100-240V, 50/60 HZ), b) that's well suited to the MA1 console, and c) that has those Irish/UK style pins. Like I said, I don't have one of the original power supplies that Magnavox manufactured for the Odyssey (I have been waiting for a few months for one to pop up on eBay with no joy...), but in an earlier thread linked below, @Clong80 notes that the specs on the original power supply are: INPUT 117 VAC 50/60HZ OUTPUT 9 volts 400ma 3.5mm mono headphone jack Tip positive for polarity Power (Solution?) So after a bit of online browsing, I found this website that sells modern power supply adapters for the Atari 2600. The specs on this unit are: 9V DC 1A Tip: 3.5mm jack (Centre tip positive) https://www.retrosales.com.au/collections/atari-power/products/accessory-power-supply-atari-2600-power-supply-adaptor-pack-9v So that will supply more current than the console needs; I know these numbers don't need to match exactly, but is the difference (9V, 1A vs 9V, 400ma) reasonable enough? I'd also need a standard travel adapter to convert the Australian plug to UK pin-style. Found this unit on Amazon ("This Adapter does not convert Voltage. Please make sure your device supports 220-240 Voltage.") Per Jakob Schuler on YouTube, it looks like the Magnavox Odyssey needs a 2.5mm tip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzXlJSa_VP4&t=6m22s), so I found this 3.5mm-to-2.5mm adapter on Amazon AV Hookup: I don't have one of the original antenna game switches with the hanging hooks, but my CRT doesn't accept NTSC RF anyway, so I don't think that would be the best option for me. However, it will accept NTSC through the composite ports. And I have an NTSC RF-to-composite conversion box, which works great either on its own or with composite switches. I've had no luck finding an original MA1 video cable like this one https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_06_2016/post-32949-0-81329000-1466475134.jpg On the TV end, the little RF adapters are obviously no problem to get from Amazon, but I understand that the other end which connects to the console is proprietary? (I'm not 100% sure about this). End of an entirely-too-long post Would be super grateful if anyone could advise me on 1) whether I've made any huge screw-ups in my choice of power accessories, and 2) how to find a video cable that will connect to the console Many thanks if you stuck through to the end of this post
  21. Cross-posting the new 2021 production Vectrex Mail Plane and Light Pen release announcement by Sean Kelly. "NOW AVAILABLE - MAIL PLANE! I've been working on this project for several months and finally debuted it at Midwest Gaming Classic in Milwaukee this past weekend. Mail Plane is available in two different packages - Standard and Deluxe. The Standard Edition comes complete with a box, insert and full instruction manual. The Deluxe Edition comes complete with a box, insert, full instruction manual, a perfect replica of the original Light Pen, a replica Light Pen instruction sheet and a limited edition Mail Plane pilot's wings pin. Everything in the Deluxe Edition fits nicely back into the standard-sized Mail Plane box. The Light Pen was made from a custom mold and is the exact size and shape as the original. I also had a cable molded to the exact specifications of the GCE Light Pen cable. The pen housing is hot stamped with the Vectrex and Light Pen logos in silver ink. I intentionally omitted the "TM" after the Vectrex logo as a way of differentiating this pen from the original. Honestly, other than that is near impossible to tell the difference. In addition to the two boxed versions, I also have loose cartridges of Mail Plane and loose Light Pens available. Everything can be found on my website at http://www.vectrexmulti.com/! "
  22. I am trying to test a stock NTSC 600XL to see if it works. It does not have a monitor port. I don't have a TV with an antenna hookup on it. Any ideas as to how I can test this?
  23. I've been working on a new upgrade that can be installed in any A8, 5200, & even the 2600. I know there's a million upgrades out there, but the good ones are mostly based on tweaks to the original Atari circuit, and the bad ones are haphazardly designed. 1st, the real problems with the Atari circuit(s): The video circuits in most A8's are not sufficiently decoupled from the digital noise in the system. Video power and ground are often shared with very noisy components like DRAM and this causes vertical bars to appear in the picture. For example, you can often see the refresh cycles on the left side of the screen. Crude DACs like the one made from the CD4050 have no ability to reject power supply noise and will superimpose it on the picture. No tweaking of the video buffers will remove it. Atari actually put components in some XLs to blur the image in an attempt to clear up the lines. That's not to say the buffers didn't need tweaking. They frequently deviated from the 75-ohm impedance standard that that meant the picture quality could be unreliable (shadows, smearing & ghosting), especially with longer cables. At video speeds, you only get maximum transfer when everything is the right impedance. In addition, some of the chroma circuits produced highly distorted sine-waves which contributed to noise in the image. So to solve these problems, my board: 1. Has an on-board regulator to create a clean video power source. 2. Has a 3-channel video amplifier designed for 75 ohm loads. 3. Has a pixel re-clocking circuit to remove skew and better align the 4 luminance signals into a perfect pixel edge. 4. Has a carefully designed chroma-shaping circuit. In addition, there's an adjustable pot on the board which controls the phase between the chroma and luma signals. A nice side-effect of this that you can change the artifact colors. There's also a jumper to invert the chroma which swaps the positions of the artifact colors. The board plugs into the CD4050 socket for easy installation on most machines. It can be used in place of the original circuit or along side it. I'm working on the final board layout and I hope to have them available in the AtariAge store early next year. Here are some pictures of the prototype. Any patterns in the picture are due to the camera picking up the CRT mask, but you'll notice the absence of vertical bars (I'll try to get better pictures...). One of the pictures is taken off my LCD (and even the LCD is hard to photograph). The split screen pictures show the effect of artifact tuning. The board is currently installed in a very noisy 130XE. I'll try to get some before pictures. I'm calling it UAV for Ultimate Atari Video. More to come!
  24. 80 column text on the Atari 8bit, with out using the XEP80 or some modified video card, is created by using GRAPHICS 8 and a 4 character wide font. It works fairly well on an unmodified Atari IF you have a a B&W TV or, even better, a monochrome monitor. A color TV, LED TV/monitor or even some composite monitors, no so good (See 1st picture). The screen is created by a BASIC program from ANTIC called Easy80 (attached). As you can see the font is only sorta readable on my color LCD monitor. But, while installing my new UAV chip in my 600XL I once forgot to hook up the color line and the video was just B&W. This got me thinking. What would the screen look like if I disconnected that line and then ran the Easy80. (picture below). That is really clear. Here is a picture in the XL of the line I disconnected. The line is supposed to be connected to the screw connector at the top to supply the color. IDEA! put a switch on the back of the computer to turn off that line on when I want sharp B&W or 80 column. Before I do it is there any reason I shouldn't do that? Is there something I'm missing that might hurt or damage my XL when the switch is off. what ya'll think? disclaimer: I have my UAV set up for composite only. If you have setup for S-Video with separate chroma , should work the same but haven't tested it. easy80basic.atr
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