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  1. I'm starting this thread as a means to hopefully promote some F18A development, answer specific questions about programming the F18A, and finally as place to look for links to updated documentation and eventually firmware updates. This first post will always have the latest documents and updates attached, so there is no need to go digging through the thread to find the most recent information. I also hope it will contain questions, answers, and code examples. I would like to keep this thread technical and on-topic, so if you have other general F18A questions or comments, please start a new thread or use the other existing F18A thread. * Documentation: On-going. This is something I hope to complete, but until then Rasmus has collected many of the F18A programming posts from the forum and created PDF of them (thank you Rasmus!) See the files attached to this thread, and please ask F18A technical questions in this thread. The main F18A webpage (http://codehackcreate.com/archives/30) has the main feature list, as well as an initial post to getting started with programming the F18A. As I add documentation, I will post it on the website first, then make an update here to let anyone interested know there is something new. * Register Use Spreadsheet: Libre Office / Open Office .ods format. This is the primary spreadsheet I used while developing the F18A, and all functionality was documented in the spreadsheet first, then converted into HDL. That means the spreadsheet is always up to date with respect to the F18A's functionality. While some of the F18A's features require more documentation to use, much of the functionality is very self explanatory and can be used just by looking at the spreadsheet and reading the notes. For example, it does not take much to guessing to figure out what the "horizontal scroll register" does. ************* COMPATIBILITY ************* Pin-compatible replacement for the TMS9918A, 9928, 9929, and TMS9118 Video Data Processors. The F18A has been tested in the following systems: TI-99/4A Home Computer ColecoVison Game Console* ColecoVision ADAM Computer# Toshiba HX-10 MSX1 Computer Toshiba Pasopia-IQ MSX1 Computer JVC Victor HC-7 MSX1 Computer Yamaha CX5M MSX1 [email protected] SpectraVideo 328 Computer*@ Tomy Tutor Computer*@ SEGA SG-1000 Game Console SEGA SC-1000II (replaced a TMS9118 VDP) Telegames Personal Arcade Powertran Cortex Computer * Note1: These systems are known to have the original VDP soldered directly to the system circuit board and will require desoldering and a socket installed. # Note2: The ADAM computer requires an "offset board" to keep the F18A inside the main PCB outline. This is an available option when ordering and F18A. @ Note3: These systems are known to require USR4 jumper removed because the main system uses the CPUCLK output from the VDP as the main system clock. ************************ F18A FIRMWARE Change Log ************************ F18A V1.9 Dec 31, 2018 (CRC: 147A) * Prepare for open source release. * Split up the original "core" to create a top-module for the stand-alone F18A, and a "main core" that can be used as part of a larger SoC. * Fixed the VGA horizontal timing error caused by treating the pixel time as 40ns instead of 39.68ns. Because events were being counted in "pixels", this caused the horizontal sync pulse to be slightly off, and the overall line time to be 32us instead of 31.746us. This error meant each line was around 6.4 pixels too long, and pushed the total frame rate to 59.2Hz. This error was enough to cause games to fail (Pole Position on the 99/4A), and some monitors to not sync properly when run through video converters. The timing error also caused many problems for the PAL ColecoVision. * Removed sprite-linking. This was an unused feature and helped free up FPGA resources to allow the core to better fit in the Spartan-3E 250K. * Removed programmable GROMCLK divisor. Unused feature, free up resources. * Register mode and cd_i inputs to CPU component. V1.8 - Aug 24, 2016 (CRC: F981) * Fixed sprite collision bug where sprite collisions were being incorrectly detected outside of the active display, after line 191 or 239 depending on the line mode. * Added hybrid VR write restriction to mask VR writes to three-bits when the F18A is locked, like the real 9918A does. However, if mode bit M4 is set (80-columns), writes to VRs over VR7 are *ignored* instead of masked to three-bits. This allows various 9938 programs to work (or continue to work), as well as continue to support TurboForth that writes to VRs 0..15 to set up 80-columns (if straight masking was used, VRs 8..15 would over-write VR 0..7). V1.7 - Jan 1, 2016 (CRC: A3B5) * Fixed Bitmap-Layer (BML) display bug * Fixed GPU's PIX instruction to properly calculate BML addresses * Added power-on graphic that shows the current firmware version V1.6 - Apr 26, 2015 (CRC: 40CC) * Removed fixed tile functionality * Removed border scroll limit functionality * Removed banner functionality * Removed host-side 32-bit counter * Removed host-side 32-bit RNG * Removed GPU 32-bit counter * Removed GPU 32-bit RNG * Removed the sprite "disable value" (>F8) in the sprite Y-location when ROW30 is enabled. * Added second tile layer with its own NTBA, h/v page sizes, and h/v scroll regs * Added ECM2/3 pattern table size selections for tiles and sprites. * Added host-side segmented counter with 10ns accuracy. * Added configurable HSYNC and VSYNC GPU triggers. * Added fat-pixel (2x1) with 16-color support to the bitmap layer (BML). * Added 1x1 page scroll support for T40 and T80 modes. * Added option to reset most VDP registers to their power-on values. * Added option to disable Tile Layer 1, which includes GM1, GM2, MCM, T40, and T80. Sprites, the BML, and TL2 are still active and can be enabled/disabled independently. * Added option to allow attribute byte to be fg/bg color select in T40 and T80. * Added per-position tile attribute support. * Added DMA capability to the GPU: 8xx0 - MSB src 8xx1 - LSB src 8xx2 - MSB dst 8xx3 - LSB dst 8xx4 - width 8xx5 - height 8xx6 - stride 8xx7 - 0..5 | !INC/DEC | !COPY/FILL 8xx8 - trigger FILL (active high) will read a single byte at the src address and fill the destination with that byte. src, dst, width, height, and stride are copied to dedicated counters when the DMA is triggered, thus the original values remain unchanged. * Added USR3 jumper to control GROMCLK/CPUCLK output on pin37 to provide support for 9128/29 * Added USR2 jumper to disable/enable simulated scan lines (every other VGA scan line has its color reduced by 50%.) Also controllable via a new VDP register bit. * Added a 5th sprite reporting option instead of reporting the max-sprite, which on the F18A might be different than the original VDP because all 32 sprites can be on a single scan line. * Added a new register (VR51) to limit the maximum sprite processed. This has nothing to do with the number of sprites that can be visible on a scan line, which is controlled by a separate register (VR30). This register is always active and can be used instead of the >D0 byte in the sprite Y-location, and is the only way to limit sprite processing early when ROW30 is enabled. * Changed the GPU interlock so that polling the VDP status register will not cause the GPU to pause. This should greatly increase GPU performance during heavy VDP interrupt polling. * Fixed T80 NTBA two LSbit problem. They are ignored (set to "00") when the F18A is locked to provide compatibility with the 9938 and avoid problem with software that set the two LSbits of the NTBA to other than "11" as the 9938 documentation specifies they should be. This limits the T80 name table to 4K boundaries. When the F18A is unlocked, all 4-bits of the NTBA are used and the T80 name table can be located on 1K boundaries. * Fixed the 5th number update during a scan line. As long as the 5S flag is zero, the 5th number register follows the sprite scanning sequence. Seems to be a transparent latch that follows the input (current sprite being scanned) until latched by the 5S flag. If the status register is being polled and 5S is reset mid frame, then the 5th number begins following the scanned sprites again. This bug is known to have affected Miner49er on the 99/4A. V1.5 - July 2013 Not really a *bug* fix since the problem it corrects exists on the real 9918A, and only has to do with sporadic collision bit reporting during heavy polling of the original 9918A VDP status register. This was discovered while Rasmus was writing Titanium. The 9918A was not designed to have its status register polled which is why it provides an interrupt output. I don't think the original 9918A designers took the hazard into consideration, but I decided to make this correction because it is what the original designers would have done given their preference (and I asked Karl Guttag about it). Thus, the F18A implements what you would consider the "expected behavior", and will work as expected where the original 9918A might not. I did not make this decision lightly. V1.4 - April 2013 Fixed the sprite collision bug and a GPU bug with the divide circuit. The sprite bug is mostly affected by XB when a program uses CALL COINC(ALL). Most assembly games probably don't rely on the collision bit alone for sprites and perform coordinate testing, which is most likely why the bug slipped through all the testing (and I tested with a *lot* of games on a lot of platforms). V1.3 - July 2012 Original release firmware. ******** UPDATING ******** The In-System firmware update is available for 99/4A users. I am very thankful to Rasums and Tursi for their help in making this possible. You can download the F18AUpdate_vXX.zip file below. Detailed instructions are available on my website here: http://codehackcreate.com/archives/418 Alternatively you can update your F18A in any system via a JTAG programming cable. You can purchase a JTAG programming cable for about $59 USD from Digilent: JTAG HS3 programming cable/ This is very inexpensive for a JTAG cable (my Xilinx-brand cable was over $250!), and Digilent makes quality gear. You also need the Xilinx ISE-Webpack tools: http://www.xilinx.com/support/download/index.htm This is a free download from Xilinx, but it is BIG! About 6GB the last time I checked. There is a smaller download that contains just the programming tools called "Lab Tools" and is only about 1G. I'm still looking for a smaller / simpler solution. You will have to create an account (which is free). The primary program you need is called IMPACT and is used to program the FPGA and SPI-flash. Once you get the tools installed, download and unzip the f18a_250k_vXX.zip file. In the zip file you will find the MCS file: f18a_250k_vXX.mcs The .mcs file is used to update the SPI-flash ROM attached to the FPGA. Here are the quick instructions. The term "system" means your 99/4A, ColecoVision, MSX, etc., and "PC" means the modern personal computer you are running the Xilinx tools on. 0. Make sure your system is powered OFF to begin 1. Open your system to get physical access to the F18A 2. Plug the JTAG programmer in to your PC (via USB) and the F18A (via JTAG) 3. Power ON your system 4. Launch the Xilinx IMPACT tool 5. Double-click on "Boundary Scan", then right-click in the main area and select "initialize chain" 6. The FPGA should be detected and show up in the big area. A window will open with device properties, just click "ok" 7. Above the FPGA icon should be a dotted line with "SPI/BPI ?" in it. Right-click on that box and select "Add SPI/BPI Flash..." 8. Navigate to the f18a_250k_vXX.mcs file you extracted from the .zip file and choose "Open" 9. Select "SPI PROM" and "M25P80" from the two drop-down selections and click "OK" 10. The box above the FPGA should now say "FLASH" in it. Right-click the box and select "Program" Once the programming is finished, cycle power on your system and make sure it comes up. ******** Examples ******** Included in the zip file is a demos disk that shows many of the enhanced features of the F18A. The source for all the programs are included. I did not write these programs and I am very thankful to Rasmus and Tursi for contributing them. rasmus_scroll.zip F18A documentation.pdf f18a_register_use.zip F18A_V19.zip
  2. Ladies and Gents, at the request of one of the members here I am posting some photos of the TIM video upgrade that was produced by OPA back in the 'day'. I have had this in storage since 1999 and used it during the mid-90's. Also find attached a couple of photos of the SOB that was sold to go along with the TIM and if you have PC99 you can play with the included SOB console grom upgrade, in it.
  3. 80 column text on the Atari 8bit, with out using the XEP80 or some modified video card, is created by using GRAPHICS 8 and a 4 character wide font. It works fairly well on an unmodified Atari IF you have a a B&W TV or, even better, a monochrome monitor. A color TV, LED TV/monitor or even some composite monitors, no so good (See 1st picture). The screen is created by a BASIC program from ANTIC called Easy80 (attached). As you can see the font is only sorta readable on my color LCD monitor. But, while installing my new UAV chip in my 600XL I once forgot to hook up the color line and the video was just B&W. This got me thinking. What would the screen look like if I disconnected that line and then ran the Easy80. (picture below). That is really clear. Here is a picture in the XL of the line I disconnected. The line is supposed to be connected to the screw connector at the top to supply the color. IDEA! put a switch on the back of the computer to turn off that line on when I want sharp B&W or 80 column. Before I do it is there any reason I shouldn't do that? Is there something I'm missing that might hurt or damage my XL when the switch is off. what ya'll think? disclaimer: I have my UAV set up for composite only. If you have setup for S-Video with separate chroma , should work the same but haven't tested it. easy80basic.atr
  4. Hi! So my atari's video output is all garbage, or sometimes none at all. I recapped the sysem and did a console5 refresh kit and no difference. Tried different rf cables and used a known working psu. Any idea guys? Maybe the Tia chip or maybe something simple? Thanks!!
  5. I'm fairly new to the ST, but I picked up 3 STs, in a lot, recently. I got a 520stfm, a 520stm, and a 520st. I didn't get any monitors, or video cables, with them, though. Given that situation, the first thing that I did was to make up a DIN-13 to composite video + audio cable. The quality of output I got from that was acceptable (but not great) at low res, and terrible at medium res. Looking to improve my output, I bought a an NEW v2.0 Atari ST DIN13 to VGA Adaptor Low-Medium/High Switchable with Audio Out and, after reading that my Extron RGB-HDMI 300a was capable of going beyond the spec of 30 kHz, I tried it out. I think that the results speak for themselves. You can see some jailbars, particularly in high res, but if I take a bit of time to adjust the phase, those should go away. These images are the defaults, with zero tuning. - Alex
  6. I've been working on a new upgrade that can be installed in any A8, 5200, & even the 2600. I know there's a million upgrades out there, but the good ones are mostly based on tweaks to the original Atari circuit, and the bad ones are haphazardly designed. 1st, the real problems with the Atari circuit(s): The video circuits in most A8's are not sufficiently decoupled from the digital noise in the system. Video power and ground are often shared with very noisy components like DRAM and this causes vertical bars to appear in the picture. For example, you can often see the refresh cycles on the left side of the screen. Crude DACs like the one made from the CD4050 have no ability to reject power supply noise and will superimpose it on the picture. No tweaking of the video buffers will remove it. Atari actually put components in some XLs to blur the image in an attempt to clear up the lines. That's not to say the buffers didn't need tweaking. They frequently deviated from the 75-ohm impedance standard that that meant the picture quality could be unreliable (shadows, smearing & ghosting), especially with longer cables. At video speeds, you only get maximum transfer when everything is the right impedance. In addition, some of the chroma circuits produced highly distorted sine-waves which contributed to noise in the image. So to solve these problems, my board: 1. Has an on-board regulator to create a clean video power source. 2. Has a 3-channel video amplifier designed for 75 ohm loads. 3. Has a pixel re-clocking circuit to remove skew and better align the 4 luminance signals into a perfect pixel edge. 4. Has a carefully designed chroma-shaping circuit. In addition, there's an adjustable pot on the board which controls the phase between the chroma and luma signals. A nice side-effect of this that you can change the artifact colors. There's also a jumper to invert the chroma which swaps the positions of the artifact colors. The board plugs into the CD4050 socket for easy installation on most machines. It can be used in place of the original circuit or along side it. I'm working on the final board layout and I hope to have them available in the AtariAge store early next year. Here are some pictures of the prototype. Any patterns in the picture are due to the camera picking up the CRT mask, but you'll notice the absence of vertical bars (I'll try to get better pictures...). One of the pictures is taken off my LCD (and even the LCD is hard to photograph). The split screen pictures show the effect of artifact tuning. The board is currently installed in a very noisy 130XE. I'll try to get some before pictures. I'm calling it UAV for Ultimate Atari Video. More to come!
  7. i saw this video on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yKwJJw6Abs and i thought, i can totally do that on the TI.. so.. 10 D$="FF" :: FOR D=65 TO 65+8 :: D$="00"&D$ :: CALL CHAR(D,D$) :: NEXT D :: FOR B=1 TO 10 :: PRINT "F";"E";"D";"C";"B";"A";"A";"B";"C";"D";"E";"F";"G"; :: B=1 :: NEXT B i had to print each character individually to get the required screen movement.. Here's xbasic, and compiled.. WAVE is normal extended basic, -X is compiled but loads in extended basic, and -E is EA5 load. looks pretty slick compiled some small screen glitches likely because I'm running classic99 in Wine on a linux pc.. WAVE-X WAVE-E WAVE
  8. On the NTSC Atari 600XL the only video output is RF and the picture quality is really not very good, at all, not in the least, bad. So I thought maybe, if I want to use this 600XL for anything more than a prop, I might want to replace the video with something better. After looking around I chose the UAV by https://thebrewingacademy.com/ due to it’s simplistically and it’s cheap at only $30. Plus it has one of the best pictures I have ever seen for a composite output. Installation: (My work area) NOTE: This information covers the installation of the UAV composite and the way I installed it for NTSC 600XL ONLY. There are other ways to install the device but this is the way I choose. I am not responsible for any problems you may have following these instructions. I tried my best to make as clear as possible. So there. The UAV comes several ways. I chose the pre-built drop in as it’s the simplest. The package comes with all you need to drop in install (except what’s needed for sound). FYI: here is the link to the manual: http://www.thebrewingacademy.net/UAV_manuals.zip The manual covers ALL the various machines that the UAV can be installed in giving not too much space for any one type. Read over the manual but don’t expect a step by step install. Now my installation. Of course the first thing I did was open up the computer (seen in picture above). The blue wiring is the 64k upgrade I previously did. The UAV is a little board that plugs into the slot of one of the chips you remove. Then you add some wires and 3 solder points (if install like I did). Here is the board. I put tape over the top and bottom because there isn’t much clearance in the 600Xl and didn’t want to chance a short. Top view. Bottom view. Notice an extension on the bottom pins. This is so that the chip will clear a line of resistors just in front of the chip. I found the extension to be a bit unstable so later I took it off and the board set just fine. Remove the chip U19 as this is where the board will be plugged in. The UART socket is in the black box. Notice I have put electrical tape around the resistors in front of the plug. I found that playing around with placement of the board these resistors tended to want to push against each other and short. The tape kept that from happening. Next to the UART socket I have a green wire soldered to a resistor. This wire will be attached to the UAV board later and supplies the color signal. This is the board plugged into the socket. You will be attaching wires to that green header in a bit. Notice the jumpers I had tape on in a previous picture. Refer to the manual on the placement of those jumpers for the 600XL. The board does not come with the jumpers set for the 600XL so you will have the change them. Little trivia, to the left you will see places for several missing components. This is the missing composite circuitry NOT found in the NTSC version of the 600XL. For my installation I removed the RF module and the channel selector switch. Location is next to where the channel switch was. This is where I take the sound off of. I soldered in two pins to plug the sound cables into for easy removal. Pin on left is ground. OK, I know I’m going to get a lot of gruff for this but I didn’t solder in a 5 pin plug for this install. Reasons, I plan to only use the composite so most of the other pins would not have been used since I had no way of utilizing the S-Video capabilities of splitting the Luma and Chroma. Also I already had a dual RCA plug. Anyway, here is where you plug the wires into the board and the sound. I cut holes for the RCA plugs and mounted the board on the back of the 600XL where the RF plug was. AND IT WORKS. The finished product. That’s it. That’s all there is to installing the UAV the way I did it. Hope this helps. Good luck.
  9. Hi; So I hauled out my 8-bit collection (that has been modded for various reasons back when I used it heavily back in the '90s). I have forgotten soooo much! This 8-bit stuff got me through a dissertation, online database searching and early attempts at running a profession-related BBS before the Internet was ubiquitous. Current problem. I'm trying to efficiently figure out what to do to resurrect a 130XE that currently only boots to a blank green screen. I noted that a different computer (Also Atari 8-bit) booted to green screen when the ribbon cable for the keyboard was badly inserted (a corner was folded over itself...straightening that out allowed it to boot correctly, but that was not the problem with the unit at hand). First question: I have a pretty horrid/beat up 65XE that I was thinking I might scavenge for parts/chips, BUT other than memory are the 65XE chips the same as the 130XE? Next question: Is there a step-by-step logical process for teasing out the most efficient process for diagnosing/repairing the green screen issue? Thanks Stuff I have on hand... CSS Black Box with Floppy Board (Bob Puff was my main go-to guy back in the day!) SpartaDOS X with R-time-8 cartridge 130XE with 320 RAM upgrade/Multiplexer OS (in good working order) 130XE with a ROM board/switch that can switch/boot between 3 different chips (this is the machine with the problem) 800XL standard/good working order 65XE with horrid case and keyboard with many dead keys (I might be brave/foolhardy enough to try and desolder this for parts). 1050 disk drive XF551 disk drives (2) Hard drive with various Sparta/MyDOS boot partitions and utilities. Various game cartridges and 8-bit software mostly on 5.25 disks.
  10. This is now a "quest" -- and way more interesting to me than an adventure game! I've been doing a little research on the 600XL video issues, trying to find a "Quick and Easy" solution such as the excellent information in the "Quick and Easy Video Upgrade for the 800XL." http://www.atariage....rade-for-800xl/ That thread actually contains a reference to an article on the 600XL: (BTW, the author of this also did an article on bringing the ram in a 600XL up to 64K.) http://atrey.karlin....i/600xlmon.html This method is way easier than SuperVideo 2.1. Has anyone done this mod, and does it give good results? I wonder if it can be "tweaked" to improve the results? There is also the Best Electronics 600XL kit shown on this page: http://www.best-elec...800xl.htm#600XL Has anyone done the B.E. kit mod, and is it the same as the mod shown above? Or is the BE mod a kit of missing parts to make the 600XL video functional through a normal monitor jack? Does it provide good results, or do you then have to "mod" the results to get good video? (If the 600XL video ends up looking like a stock 800XL, that's probably not a good thing.) -Larry
  11. Hello all, long time reader, first time poster on the forums. I recently picked up a junk Coleco Telstar Combat system made in ‘77 for a couple dollars. It was pretty roached, but it’s a rather obscure system so I couldn’t pass it up. However, after getting it all cleaned up, I plugged it to my TV to test it out, but all I got was static and no signal. I tried many times turning the system off and on but mostly no signal would appear at all. Sometime a staticky signal would fade in and out, but it was very inconsistent. Once, I even got a vague image of the actually game screen to appear for a few seconds. I’m fairly confident that the video cable coming from the system itself is not the issue and I have it hooked up to a known working RF switch that works well with my Atari 2600. So, I opened the system back up, removed the RF shield, and began to adjust the RF inductors (I’m using a modern tv). ( I attached pics for reference) There appears to be 2 RF inductor adjustments under the shield, and a screw adjustment at the top right corner of the board. I started adjusting the orange (bottom) inductor but that only caused the video to go from no signal, to staticky image, back to no signal. So I tried to adjust the white (top) RF inductor, but it wouldn’t budge. Upon further inspection, I saw the slot inside this inductor had several cracks. I desoldered the inductor from the board to examine it further, but couldn’t get it to budge. After resoldering it back on, I still have the same issue, however, the static signal seems to become more and more scarce, leaving me with no signal as I fiddle more and more with the inductors. I also tried adjusting the screw adjuster to no avail, but I’m not really sure which RF adjusters I should/need to adjust. Would the cracking in the inductor be enough to inhibit the video signal completely? Is there anything else that could be causing this issue besides the inductors? I have a rather limited knowledge on electronics as I have only been attempting retro repairs for about a year and a half, so any new nuggets of knowledge are greatly appreciated! This is a really neat and rare system that I would like to have working in my collection. Feel free to ask questions if something isn’t clear. Thanks in advance! (Note: I have the same problem regardless if I’m using batteries or the power supply).
  12. SavyIsJoshoArts

    Oink! PAL

    From the album: Atari 2600 Gameplay on YPbPr Component

    High Score on Activision's Oink! Played on my Atari 2600 4-Switch Woodgrain Console modded using TimWorthington's 2600RGB Mod showing it in YPbPr Component Video Output.

    © SavyIsJoshoaArts aka Activision Man

  13. For years now I've been hoping to see a series like this for various retro computing platforms (Atari 800, Apple II, TRS-80 Model III, Fujitsu FM7, C64, VIC-20, Atari ST, TI-99, SG-3000, X68000, Acorn, BBC Micro, Color Computer, PC-88, Spectrum, Adam, etc...). https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLOT5j3ELi5BaSrb24fJEKvTqlRK4fg9wS In this case, it's for the Amiga. If others decide to make YouTube tutorial series' like this, please let me know. There are a bunch of platforms that I'd like to learn. And if someone can recommend a free video screen-capture utility that is Windows Vista compatible (and doesn't contain viruses), I may actually do more of these. Oh, and maybe an app that can add captions since YouTube is no longer offering annotation and captioning services as part of their site tools.
  14. Other than TIP animation, has there even been any other serious attempts at a video decompression system for the Atari 8-bit? I've been thinking out (though not implementing) a lossy fractal method for compression (to do on the PC) and then decompressing on the 8-bit. One thing that I've considered is that on some frames, there may be too much to do in the 1 frame. But for such cases, I then considered that if you knew how many cycles each type of compressed item takes to decompress, you could get the compressor to prioritise what gets compressed in each frame. Then for the actual compression, you can encode whether an 8x8 or 4x8 square needs to be become more like some other square or not... (1 or 0 - with RLE). My inspiration came from this rotating video on the C64 at 28s on here:
  15. Now let me start by saying I have done extensive research into this. I'm aware of all ways of connecting an atari to a modern TV, but what I really need is an opinion on wether my specific issue is my own stupidity, or the TV just won't do it. The TV is: http://www.vizio.com/e65c3.html I'm using the RCA to coax adapter. Directly connecting it to the TV via coax and switching to this input yeilds no result. I connect the Atari to the input of a VCR, then connect the composite output to the TV. I can get the VCR to play tapes over the TV, both video and audio, but I cannot get the Atari to display through it. Is it possible that the VCR is not a good enough demodulator/converter for this modern of a TV? Is there usually some menu option you need to tinker with to get a digital TV to detect the input (either directly or through a VCR). Is it possible that this TV just doesn't have the capability I need to play the Atari on it?


    I just watched this video, quite funny but nothing to write home about. But at the end they talking about a piece of hardware I never heard about. The Jaguar Jugebox which "Allow you to have 6 games cardriges connected to yoru jaguar at the same time'. Ever heard of it ? Do you have info ? Pictures ?
  17. I just acquired an Atari STFM with a SM124 and SC124 monitor. When starting it up for the first time, the monitor does power on as well as the computer, it accesses the floppy drive, but the video output is not working. See attached photo and video. The SM124 monitor has the white line but the SC124 has no video at all. Not sure if it's a monitor problem or an internal video card problem. Any ideas? thanks AtariSM124monitor_problem.mpg
  18. Hey everyone. Had a quick question for those of you familiar with Hardware because I really am not. i have a video issue with only certain homebrews and hacks. Original release 2600 games play fine, all 85 or so i own. It doesn't happen every time with the effected games, and when it does happen usually taking the game out and reinserting it once or up to 3 times will make the issue go away. could this be a power issue? Capacitors or something inside the system failing? Or simply just RF interference of some kind? I'm using a light sixer on a CRT through RF. I'll post a picture of one of the affected games and then a couple of pictures of regular games playing fine. thanks alot everyone.
  19. Hi. I recently bought an Atari Jaguar of eBay. It is PAL. It seems to power on and shows a green light. But when I hook it up to the TV, I see a distorted image (what you see when you don’t insert an Atari 2600 cartridge properly) I’ve been told by someone that the console is working as it should and the image I see is caused by the PAL system being used in an NTSC country. What do you think? By the way, I am using the AV signal. Is there something I need to buy to get it working? Thank you!
  20. Hi guys! I dug out my 800XL from my mom's house this past week and hooked it up to my Plasma TV using one of these Atari to Composite cables: https://www.8bitclassics.com/Atari-800-XL-XE-5-Pin-DIN-S-Video-Cable.html?search=AXL-SVIDEO However I cannot get it to work. The 800XL power light comes on but the TV just says no signal. I tried with both composite (Yellow, Red, White) and S-Video connections on the cables, and also tried composite on another LCDTV in the house. I also have two of the same cable converters linked above and both had same results. Same thing for all tests, "no signal" on TV. I am not sure what to do next. Is it likely that there is an issue with the monitor out on the 800XL? Or is it just that my TV's cannot recognize the signal? Maybe I need a different converter? What steps should I take next? I appreciate your help 8-biters! Gabriel
  21. Hey all, I recently purchased a Philips VG8020/00 MSX Home Computer. I'm having some trouble getting a decent video signal out of the thing. When I hook it up to my VCR/DVD Combo via the RF out and convert the signal into composite, I get a glitchy screen, jumping from left to right, going from color to black and white. However, the MSX boot up text is present, and when I press keys on the keyboard, they do get added to the screen. I used the automatic tuning options on my VCR/DVD combo, but it sadly does not improve the quality. I also tried connecting a Sega Mega Drive RGB connector to the Monitor out on the computer, but that didn't do anything apart from making some pop noises. I might have to get a different cable to test that out. I also know for sure that my set-up isn't the problem; I've connected other coaxial game-consoles the same way (Atari 2600, Videopac G7000) and they all work. The unit looks fine and all (no mayor external damage). What I did notice though, was some noises inside the machine when I held it sideways; there could be some dirt in there. Also, some buttons get stuck from time to time (especially the directional buttons). I'll open it up and give it a good clean one of these days. Has anyone here experienced similar problems and got them solved? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! I hope the damage (if it has any) is not to severe; would be awesome to get it up and running again! Thanks!
  22. I found my original 800xl from when I was a kid in the garage. Did not have a power supply so I picked up a 61982 off ebay. When I turn it on I see scrambled video and hear a buzz. This happens when I use the RF out and when using composite out via the monitor port. I recently had a similar issue with a 2600 and swapping out the TIA worked. Could this be as easy as replacing the GTIA or does the buzzing indicate another issue?
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