Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'video'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Atari Systems
    • Atari General
    • Atari 2600
    • Atari 5200
    • Atari 7800
    • Atari Lynx
    • Atari Jaguar
    • Atari VCS
    • Dedicated Systems
    • Atari 8-Bit Computers
    • Atari ST/TT/Falcon Computers
  • Classic Consoles
  • Classic Computing
  • Modern Consoles
  • Gaming General
  • Marketplace
  • Community
  • Community
  • Game Programming
  • Site
  • PC Gaming
  • The Club of Clubs's Discussion
  • I Hate Sauron's Topics
  • 1088 XEL/XLD Owners and Builders's Topics
  • Atari BBS Gurus's Community Chat
  • Atari BBS Gurus's BBS Callers
  • Atari BBS Gurus's BBS SysOps
  • Atari BBS Gurus's Resources
  • Atari Lynx Programmer Club's CC65
  • Atari Lynx Programmer Club's ASM
  • Atari Lynx Programmer Club's Lynx Programming
  • Atari Lynx Programmer Club's Music/Sound
  • Atari Lynx Programmer Club's Graphics
  • The Official AtariAge Shitpost Club's Shitty meme repository
  • The Official AtariAge Shitpost Club's Read this before you enter too deep
  • Arcade Gaming's Discussion
  • Tesla's Vehicles
  • Tesla's Solar
  • Tesla's PowerWall
  • Tesla's General
  • Harmony/Melody's CDFJ
  • Harmony/Melody's DPC+
  • Harmony/Melody's BUS
  • Harmony/Melody's CDFJ+
  • Harmony/Melody's General
  • ZeroPage Homebrew's Discussion
  • Furry Club's Chat/RP
  • PSPMinis.com's General PSP Minis Discussion and Questions
  • PSPMinis.com's Reviews
  • Atari Lynx 30th Birthday's 30th Birthday Programming Competition Games
  • 3D Printing Club's Chat
  • Drivers' Club's Members' Vehicles
  • Drivers' Club's Drives & Events
  • Drivers' Club's Wrenching
  • Drivers' Club's Found in the Wild
  • Drivers' Club's General Discussion
  • Dirtarians's General Discussion
  • Dirtarians's Members' Rigs
  • Dirtarians's Trail Runs & Reports
  • Dirtarians's Wrenching
  • The Green Herb's Discussions
  • Robin Gravel's new blog's My blog
  • Robin Gravel's new blog's Games released
  • Robin Gravel's new blog's The Flintstones Comic Strip
  • Atari Video Club's Harmony Games
  • Atari Video Club's The Atari Gamer
  • Atari Video Club's Video Game Summit
  • Atari Video Club's Discsuuions
  • Star Wars - The Original Trilogy's Star Wars Talk
  • PlusCart User's Bug reports
  • PlusCart User's Discussion
  • DMGD Club's Incoming!
  • DASM's General
  • AtariVox's Topics
  • Gran Turismo's Gran Turismo
  • Gran Turismo's Misc.
  • Gran Turismo's Announcements
  • The Food Club's Food
  • The Food Club's Drinks
  • The Food Club's Read me first!
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's Rules (READ FIRST)
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's Feedback
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's Rumor Mill
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's Coming Soon
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's General Talk
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's High Score Arena
  • Adelaide South Australia Atari Chat's General Chat & Welcome
  • Adelaide South Australia Atari Chat's Meets
  • Adelaide South Australia Atari Chat's Trades & Swaps
  • KC-ACE Reboot's KC-ACE Reboot Forum
  • The Official Lost Gaming Club's Lost Gaming
  • The Official Lost Gaming Club's Undumped Games
  • The Official Lost Gaming Club's Tip Of My Tounge
  • The Official Lost Gaming Club's Lost Gaming Vault
  • The Official Lost Gaming Club's Club Info
  • GIMP Users's Discussion
  • The Homebrew Discussion's Topics
  • Hair Club for Men's Bald? BEGONE!

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Calendars

  • AtariAge Calendar
  • The Club of Clubs's Events
  • Atari BBS Gurus's Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Website


Facebook


Twitter


Instagram


YouTube


eBay


GitHub


Custom Status


Location


Interests


Currently Playing


Playing Next

Found 103 results

  1. On the NTSC Atari 600XL the only video output is RF and the picture quality is really not very good, at all, not in the least, bad. So I thought maybe, if I want to use this 600XL for anything more than a prop, I might want to replace the video with something better. After looking around I chose the UAV by https://thebrewingacademy.com/ due to it’s simplistically and it’s cheap at only $30. Plus it has one of the best pictures I have ever seen for a composite output. Installation: (My work area) NOTE: This information covers the installation of the UAV composite and the way I installed it for NTSC 600XL ONLY. There are other ways to install the device but this is the way I choose. I am not responsible for any problems you may have following these instructions. I tried my best to make as clear as possible. So there. The UAV comes several ways. I chose the pre-built drop in as it’s the simplest. The package comes with all you need to drop in install (except what’s needed for sound). FYI: here is the link to the manual: http://www.thebrewingacademy.net/UAV_manuals.zip The manual covers ALL the various machines that the UAV can be installed in giving not too much space for any one type. Read over the manual but don’t expect a step by step install. Now my installation. Of course the first thing I did was open up the computer (seen in picture above). The blue wiring is the 64k upgrade I previously did. The UAV is a little board that plugs into the slot of one of the chips you remove. Then you add some wires and 3 solder points (if install like I did). Here is the board. I put tape over the top and bottom because there isn’t much clearance in the 600Xl and didn’t want to chance a short. Top view. Bottom view. Notice an extension on the bottom pins. This is so that the chip will clear a line of resistors just in front of the chip. I found the extension to be a bit unstable so later I took it off and the board set just fine. Remove the chip U19 as this is where the board will be plugged in. The UART socket is in the black box. Notice I have put electrical tape around the resistors in front of the plug. I found that playing around with placement of the board these resistors tended to want to push against each other and short. The tape kept that from happening. Next to the UART socket I have a green wire soldered to a resistor. This wire will be attached to the UAV board later and supplies the color signal. This is the board plugged into the socket. You will be attaching wires to that green header in a bit. Notice the jumpers I had tape on in a previous picture. Refer to the manual on the placement of those jumpers for the 600XL. The board does not come with the jumpers set for the 600XL so you will have the change them. Little trivia, to the left you will see places for several missing components. This is the missing composite circuitry NOT found in the NTSC version of the 600XL. For my installation I removed the RF module and the channel selector switch. Location is next to where the channel switch was. This is where I take the sound off of. I soldered in two pins to plug the sound cables into for easy removal. Pin on left is ground. OK, I know I’m going to get a lot of gruff for this but I didn’t solder in a 5 pin plug for this install. Reasons, I plan to only use the composite so most of the other pins would not have been used since I had no way of utilizing the S-Video capabilities of splitting the Luma and Chroma. Also I already had a dual RCA plug. Anyway, here is where you plug the wires into the board and the sound. I cut holes for the RCA plugs and mounted the board on the back of the 600XL where the RF plug was. AND IT WORKS. The finished product. That’s it. That’s all there is to installing the UAV the way I did it. Hope this helps. Good luck.
  2. I've tried this app called Video Game Price Charts. Has anyone else tried this? Is it accurate?
  3. So I have been working on a Atari 2600 I have done the cap kit and the RF upgrade. I get a perfect image for a little bit then fads to dark. After have on a little longer the screen gets messed up. After that I loose the image all together but still have sound(sound is scratchy). I have pulled the chips to try and reset them. At this point I am at a lose. Does any one have any ideas what to try next? Thanks
  4. Have spent a long time waiting for an original Magnavox Odyssey video cable to come up for sale, or looking for other Magnavox consoles with the same weird proprietary AV connector with no luck. So I think the most practical solution is probably to solder an RF cable to the back of the board (seems like there's only two points to be soldered - ground plane and video signal) and connect it up to a composite demodulator/VCR. Wouldn't have been my first choice as I'd like to keep the console in stock condition, but I'm sure it'll be fine. Does anyone happen to know what the length of the original video cable was? Just want to make sure I leave enough slack when it goes into my setup, as the controller cables are quite short. Many thanks @Boojakascha @Mikebloke @Odysseus
  5. Definitely a work in progress, but I wanted to make a video to show where things stood with the beta version of the #ColecoAdam #FujiNet, including seeing the CP/M tools. Enjoy
  6. I'm starting this thread as a means to hopefully promote some F18A development, answer specific questions about programming the F18A, and finally as place to look for links to updated documentation and eventually firmware updates. This first post will always have the latest documents and updates attached, so there is no need to go digging through the thread to find the most recent information. I also hope it will contain questions, answers, and code examples. I would like to keep this thread technical and on-topic, so if you have other general F18A questions or comments, please start a new thread or use the other existing F18A thread. * Documentation: On-going. This is something I hope to complete, but until then Rasmus has collected many of the F18A programming posts from the forum and created PDF of them (thank you Rasmus!) See the files attached to this thread, and please ask F18A technical questions in this thread. The main F18A webpage (http://codehackcreate.com/archives/30) has the main feature list, as well as an initial post to getting started with programming the F18A. As I add documentation, I will post it on the website first, then make an update here to let anyone interested know there is something new. * Register Use Spreadsheet: Libre Office / Open Office .ods format. This is the primary spreadsheet I used while developing the F18A, and all functionality was documented in the spreadsheet first, then converted into HDL. That means the spreadsheet is always up to date with respect to the F18A's functionality. While some of the F18A's features require more documentation to use, much of the functionality is very self explanatory and can be used just by looking at the spreadsheet and reading the notes. For example, it does not take much to guessing to figure out what the "horizontal scroll register" does. ************* COMPATIBILITY ************* Pin-compatible replacement for the TMS9918A, 9928, 9929, and TMS9118 Video Data Processors. The F18A has been tested in the following systems: TI-99/4A Home Computer ColecoVison Game Console* ColecoVision ADAM Computer# Toshiba HX-10 MSX1 Computer Toshiba Pasopia-IQ MSX1 Computer JVC Victor HC-7 MSX1 Computer Yamaha CX5M MSX1 [email protected] SpectraVideo 328 Computer*@ Tomy Tutor Computer*@ SEGA SG-1000 Game Console SEGA SC-1000II (replaced a TMS9118 VDP) Telegames Personal Arcade Powertran Cortex Computer * Note1: These systems are known to have the original VDP soldered directly to the system circuit board and will require desoldering and a socket installed. # Note2: The ADAM computer requires an "offset board" to keep the F18A inside the main PCB outline. This is an available option when ordering and F18A. @ Note3: These systems are known to require USR4 jumper removed because the main system uses the CPUCLK output from the VDP as the main system clock. ************************ F18A FIRMWARE Change Log ************************ F18A V1.9 Dec 31, 2018 (CRC: 147A) * Prepare for open source release. * Split up the original "core" to create a top-module for the stand-alone F18A, and a "main core" that can be used as part of a larger SoC. * Fixed the VGA horizontal timing error caused by treating the pixel time as 40ns instead of 39.68ns. Because events were being counted in "pixels", this caused the horizontal sync pulse to be slightly off, and the overall line time to be 32us instead of 31.746us. This error meant each line was around 6.4 pixels too long, and pushed the total frame rate to 59.2Hz. This error was enough to cause games to fail (Pole Position on the 99/4A), and some monitors to not sync properly when run through video converters. The timing error also caused many problems for the PAL ColecoVision. * Removed sprite-linking. This was an unused feature and helped free up FPGA resources to allow the core to better fit in the Spartan-3E 250K. * Removed programmable GROMCLK divisor. Unused feature, free up resources. * Register mode and cd_i inputs to CPU component. V1.8 - Aug 24, 2016 (CRC: F981) * Fixed sprite collision bug where sprite collisions were being incorrectly detected outside of the active display, after line 191 or 239 depending on the line mode. * Added hybrid VR write restriction to mask VR writes to three-bits when the F18A is locked, like the real 9918A does. However, if mode bit M4 is set (80-columns), writes to VRs over VR7 are *ignored* instead of masked to three-bits. This allows various 9938 programs to work (or continue to work), as well as continue to support TurboForth that writes to VRs 0..15 to set up 80-columns (if straight masking was used, VRs 8..15 would over-write VR 0..7). V1.7 - Jan 1, 2016 (CRC: A3B5) * Fixed Bitmap-Layer (BML) display bug * Fixed GPU's PIX instruction to properly calculate BML addresses * Added power-on graphic that shows the current firmware version V1.6 - Apr 26, 2015 (CRC: 40CC) * Removed fixed tile functionality * Removed border scroll limit functionality * Removed banner functionality * Removed host-side 32-bit counter * Removed host-side 32-bit RNG * Removed GPU 32-bit counter * Removed GPU 32-bit RNG * Removed the sprite "disable value" (>F8) in the sprite Y-location when ROW30 is enabled. * Added second tile layer with its own NTBA, h/v page sizes, and h/v scroll regs * Added ECM2/3 pattern table size selections for tiles and sprites. * Added host-side segmented counter with 10ns accuracy. * Added configurable HSYNC and VSYNC GPU triggers. * Added fat-pixel (2x1) with 16-color support to the bitmap layer (BML). * Added 1x1 page scroll support for T40 and T80 modes. * Added option to reset most VDP registers to their power-on values. * Added option to disable Tile Layer 1, which includes GM1, GM2, MCM, T40, and T80. Sprites, the BML, and TL2 are still active and can be enabled/disabled independently. * Added option to allow attribute byte to be fg/bg color select in T40 and T80. * Added per-position tile attribute support. * Added DMA capability to the GPU: 8xx0 - MSB src 8xx1 - LSB src 8xx2 - MSB dst 8xx3 - LSB dst 8xx4 - width 8xx5 - height 8xx6 - stride 8xx7 - 0..5 | !INC/DEC | !COPY/FILL 8xx8 - trigger FILL (active high) will read a single byte at the src address and fill the destination with that byte. src, dst, width, height, and stride are copied to dedicated counters when the DMA is triggered, thus the original values remain unchanged. * Added USR3 jumper to control GROMCLK/CPUCLK output on pin37 to provide support for 9128/29 * Added USR2 jumper to disable/enable simulated scan lines (every other VGA scan line has its color reduced by 50%.) Also controllable via a new VDP register bit. * Added a 5th sprite reporting option instead of reporting the max-sprite, which on the F18A might be different than the original VDP because all 32 sprites can be on a single scan line. * Added a new register (VR51) to limit the maximum sprite processed. This has nothing to do with the number of sprites that can be visible on a scan line, which is controlled by a separate register (VR30). This register is always active and can be used instead of the >D0 byte in the sprite Y-location, and is the only way to limit sprite processing early when ROW30 is enabled. * Changed the GPU interlock so that polling the VDP status register will not cause the GPU to pause. This should greatly increase GPU performance during heavy VDP interrupt polling. * Fixed T80 NTBA two LSbit problem. They are ignored (set to "00") when the F18A is locked to provide compatibility with the 9938 and avoid problem with software that set the two LSbits of the NTBA to other than "11" as the 9938 documentation specifies they should be. This limits the T80 name table to 4K boundaries. When the F18A is unlocked, all 4-bits of the NTBA are used and the T80 name table can be located on 1K boundaries. * Fixed the 5th number update during a scan line. As long as the 5S flag is zero, the 5th number register follows the sprite scanning sequence. Seems to be a transparent latch that follows the input (current sprite being scanned) until latched by the 5S flag. If the status register is being polled and 5S is reset mid frame, then the 5th number begins following the scanned sprites again. This bug is known to have affected Miner49er on the 99/4A. V1.5 - July 2013 Not really a *bug* fix since the problem it corrects exists on the real 9918A, and only has to do with sporadic collision bit reporting during heavy polling of the original 9918A VDP status register. This was discovered while Rasmus was writing Titanium. The 9918A was not designed to have its status register polled which is why it provides an interrupt output. I don't think the original 9918A designers took the hazard into consideration, but I decided to make this correction because it is what the original designers would have done given their preference (and I asked Karl Guttag about it). Thus, the F18A implements what you would consider the "expected behavior", and will work as expected where the original 9918A might not. I did not make this decision lightly. V1.4 - April 2013 Fixed the sprite collision bug and a GPU bug with the divide circuit. The sprite bug is mostly affected by XB when a program uses CALL COINC(ALL). Most assembly games probably don't rely on the collision bit alone for sprites and perform coordinate testing, which is most likely why the bug slipped through all the testing (and I tested with a *lot* of games on a lot of platforms). V1.3 - July 2012 Original release firmware. ******** UPDATING ******** The In-System firmware update is available for 99/4A users. I am very thankful to Rasums and Tursi for their help in making this possible. You can download the F18AUpdate_vXX.zip file below. Detailed instructions are available on my website here: http://codehackcreate.com/archives/418 Alternatively you can update your F18A in any system via a JTAG programming cable. You can purchase a JTAG programming cable for about $59 USD from Digilent: JTAG HS3 programming cable/ This is very inexpensive for a JTAG cable (my Xilinx-brand cable was over $250!), and Digilent makes quality gear. You also need the Xilinx ISE-Webpack tools: http://www.xilinx.com/support/download/index.htm This is a free download from Xilinx, but it is BIG! About 6GB the last time I checked. There is a smaller download that contains just the programming tools called "Lab Tools" and is only about 1G. I'm still looking for a smaller / simpler solution. You will have to create an account (which is free). The primary program you need is called IMPACT and is used to program the FPGA and SPI-flash. Once you get the tools installed, download and unzip the f18a_250k_vXX.zip file. In the zip file you will find the MCS file: f18a_250k_vXX.mcs The .mcs file is used to update the SPI-flash ROM attached to the FPGA. Here are the quick instructions. The term "system" means your 99/4A, ColecoVision, MSX, etc., and "PC" means the modern personal computer you are running the Xilinx tools on. 0. Make sure your system is powered OFF to begin 1. Open your system to get physical access to the F18A 2. Plug the JTAG programmer in to your PC (via USB) and the F18A (via JTAG) 3. Power ON your system 4. Launch the Xilinx IMPACT tool 5. Double-click on "Boundary Scan", then right-click in the main area and select "initialize chain" 6. The FPGA should be detected and show up in the big area. A window will open with device properties, just click "ok" 7. Above the FPGA icon should be a dotted line with "SPI/BPI ?" in it. Right-click on that box and select "Add SPI/BPI Flash..." 8. Navigate to the f18a_250k_vXX.mcs file you extracted from the .zip file and choose "Open" 9. Select "SPI PROM" and "M25P80" from the two drop-down selections and click "OK" 10. The box above the FPGA should now say "FLASH" in it. Right-click the box and select "Program" Once the programming is finished, cycle power on your system and make sure it comes up. ******** Examples ******** Included in the zip file is a demos disk that shows many of the enhanced features of the F18A. The source for all the programs are included. I did not write these programs and I am very thankful to Rasmus and Tursi for contributing them. rasmus_scroll.zip F18A documentation.pdf f18a_register_use.zip F18A_V19.zip
  7. Morning all, poster from Ireland here, TLDR version: I am utterly clueless when it comes to AV hook-ups for the original Odyssey (and also when it comes power networking more generally). Would really appreciate if someone could review my Youtube/Wikipedia research, so I don't destroy a vintage console. The Console: I have an original Magnavox Odyssey (1972) that I picked up from another guy living in Ireland. I don't know much about Magnavox's distribution history (was the idea of PAL consoles even a thing back in 1972? ) but I'm assuming it's a standard NTSC unit that was imported, as there's a sticker on the bottom saying 120V/60Hz. The guy I bought it from just had it out on display, so there's no game power cord or antenna game switch with it, and I'm just trying to figure out what my best options are to power it on (without wearing out the battery compartment), and connecting it to a CRT. Power (Problem): In Ireland, we run the UK-style "Type G" electrical sockets, that output a standard supply of 230 volts AC (frequency 50Hz). I do have a step-down transformer but would prefer not to use it if possible, as it heats up very quickly. So I guess what I'm looking for is a) a modern power supply that can accept an input range of 100-240V, 50/60 HZ), b) that's well suited to the MA1 console, and c) that has those Irish/UK style pins. Like I said, I don't have one of the original power supplies that Magnavox manufactured for the Odyssey (I have been waiting for a few months for one to pop up on eBay with no joy...), but in an earlier thread linked below, @Clong80 notes that the specs on the original power supply are: INPUT 117 VAC 50/60HZ OUTPUT 9 volts 400ma 3.5mm mono headphone jack Tip positive for polarity Power (Solution?) So after a bit of online browsing, I found this website that sells modern power supply adapters for the Atari 2600. The specs on this unit are: 9V DC 1A Tip: 3.5mm jack (Centre tip positive) https://www.retrosales.com.au/collections/atari-power/products/accessory-power-supply-atari-2600-power-supply-adaptor-pack-9v So that will supply more current than the console needs; I know these numbers don't need to match exactly, but is the difference (9V, 1A vs 9V, 400ma) reasonable enough? I'd also need a standard travel adapter to convert the Australian plug to UK pin-style. Found this unit on Amazon ("This Adapter does not convert Voltage. Please make sure your device supports 220-240 Voltage.") Per Jakob Schuler on YouTube, it looks like the Magnavox Odyssey needs a 2.5mm tip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzXlJSa_VP4&t=6m22s), so I found this 3.5mm-to-2.5mm adapter on Amazon AV Hookup: I don't have one of the original antenna game switches with the hanging hooks, but my CRT doesn't accept NTSC RF anyway, so I don't think that would be the best option for me. However, it will accept NTSC through the composite ports. And I have an NTSC RF-to-composite conversion box, which works great either on its own or with composite switches. I've had no luck finding an original MA1 video cable like this one https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_06_2016/post-32949-0-81329000-1466475134.jpg On the TV end, the little RF adapters are obviously no problem to get from Amazon, but I understand that the other end which connects to the console is proprietary? (I'm not 100% sure about this). End of an entirely-too-long post Would be super grateful if anyone could advise me on 1) whether I've made any huge screw-ups in my choice of power accessories, and 2) how to find a video cable that will connect to the console Many thanks if you stuck through to the end of this post
  8. Cross-posting the new 2021 production Vectrex Mail Plane and Light Pen release announcement by Sean Kelly. "NOW AVAILABLE - MAIL PLANE! I've been working on this project for several months and finally debuted it at Midwest Gaming Classic in Milwaukee this past weekend. Mail Plane is available in two different packages - Standard and Deluxe. The Standard Edition comes complete with a box, insert and full instruction manual. The Deluxe Edition comes complete with a box, insert, full instruction manual, a perfect replica of the original Light Pen, a replica Light Pen instruction sheet and a limited edition Mail Plane pilot's wings pin. Everything in the Deluxe Edition fits nicely back into the standard-sized Mail Plane box. The Light Pen was made from a custom mold and is the exact size and shape as the original. I also had a cable molded to the exact specifications of the GCE Light Pen cable. The pen housing is hot stamped with the Vectrex and Light Pen logos in silver ink. I intentionally omitted the "TM" after the Vectrex logo as a way of differentiating this pen from the original. Honestly, other than that is near impossible to tell the difference. In addition to the two boxed versions, I also have loose cartridges of Mail Plane and loose Light Pens available. Everything can be found on my website at http://www.vectrexmulti.com/! "
  9. Hello all, long time reader, first time poster on the forums. I recently picked up a junk Coleco Telstar Combat system made in ‘77 for a couple dollars. It was pretty roached, but it’s a rather obscure system so I couldn’t pass it up. However, after getting it all cleaned up, I plugged it to my TV to test it out, but all I got was static and no signal. I tried many times turning the system off and on but mostly no signal would appear at all. Sometime a staticky signal would fade in and out, but it was very inconsistent. Once, I even got a vague image of the actually game screen to appear for a few seconds. I’m fairly confident that the video cable coming from the system itself is not the issue and I have it hooked up to a known working RF switch that works well with my Atari 2600. So, I opened the system back up, removed the RF shield, and began to adjust the RF inductors (I’m using a modern tv). ( I attached pics for reference) There appears to be 2 RF inductor adjustments under the shield, and a screw adjustment at the top right corner of the board. I started adjusting the orange (bottom) inductor but that only caused the video to go from no signal, to staticky image, back to no signal. So I tried to adjust the white (top) RF inductor, but it wouldn’t budge. Upon further inspection, I saw the slot inside this inductor had several cracks. I desoldered the inductor from the board to examine it further, but couldn’t get it to budge. After resoldering it back on, I still have the same issue, however, the static signal seems to become more and more scarce, leaving me with no signal as I fiddle more and more with the inductors. I also tried adjusting the screw adjuster to no avail, but I’m not really sure which RF adjusters I should/need to adjust. Would the cracking in the inductor be enough to inhibit the video signal completely? Is there anything else that could be causing this issue besides the inductors? I have a rather limited knowledge on electronics as I have only been attempting retro repairs for about a year and a half, so any new nuggets of knowledge are greatly appreciated! This is a really neat and rare system that I would like to have working in my collection. Feel free to ask questions if something isn’t clear. Thanks in advance! (Note: I have the same problem regardless if I’m using batteries or the power supply).
  10. For years now I've been hoping to see a series like this for various retro computing platforms (Atari 800, Apple II, TRS-80 Model III, Fujitsu FM7, C64, VIC-20, Atari ST, TI-99, SG-3000, X68000, Acorn, BBC Micro, Color Computer, PC-88, Spectrum, Adam, etc...). https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLOT5j3ELi5BaSrb24fJEKvTqlRK4fg9wS In this case, it's for the Amiga. If others decide to make YouTube tutorial series' like this, please let me know. There are a bunch of platforms that I'd like to learn. And if someone can recommend a free video screen-capture utility that is Windows Vista compatible (and doesn't contain viruses), I may actually do more of these. Oh, and maybe an app that can add captions since YouTube is no longer offering annotation and captioning services as part of their site tools.
  11. Other than TIP animation, has there even been any other serious attempts at a video decompression system for the Atari 8-bit? I've been thinking out (though not implementing) a lossy fractal method for compression (to do on the PC) and then decompressing on the 8-bit. One thing that I've considered is that on some frames, there may be too much to do in the 1 frame. But for such cases, I then considered that if you knew how many cycles each type of compressed item takes to decompress, you could get the compressor to prioritise what gets compressed in each frame. Then for the actual compression, you can encode whether an 8x8 or 4x8 square needs to be become more like some other square or not... (1 or 0 - with RLE). My inspiration came from this rotating video on the C64 at 28s on here:
  12. Now let me start by saying I have done extensive research into this. I'm aware of all ways of connecting an atari to a modern TV, but what I really need is an opinion on wether my specific issue is my own stupidity, or the TV just won't do it. The TV is: http://www.vizio.com/e65c3.html I'm using the RCA to coax adapter. Directly connecting it to the TV via coax and switching to this input yeilds no result. I connect the Atari to the input of a VCR, then connect the composite output to the TV. I can get the VCR to play tapes over the TV, both video and audio, but I cannot get the Atari to display through it. Is it possible that the VCR is not a good enough demodulator/converter for this modern of a TV? Is there usually some menu option you need to tinker with to get a digital TV to detect the input (either directly or through a VCR). Is it possible that this TV just doesn't have the capability I need to play the Atari on it?
  13. ARETHIUS

    JAMMER CD

    I just watched this video, quite funny but nothing to write home about. But at the end they talking about a piece of hardware I never heard about. The Jaguar Jugebox which "Allow you to have 6 games cardriges connected to yoru jaguar at the same time'. Ever heard of it ? Do you have info ? Pictures ?
  14. I just acquired an Atari STFM with a SM124 and SC124 monitor. When starting it up for the first time, the monitor does power on as well as the computer, it accesses the floppy drive, but the video output is not working. See attached photo and video. The SM124 monitor has the white line but the SC124 has no video at all. Not sure if it's a monitor problem or an internal video card problem. Any ideas? thanks AtariSM124monitor_problem.mpg
  15. Hey everyone. Had a quick question for those of you familiar with Hardware because I really am not. i have a video issue with only certain homebrews and hacks. Original release 2600 games play fine, all 85 or so i own. It doesn't happen every time with the effected games, and when it does happen usually taking the game out and reinserting it once or up to 3 times will make the issue go away. could this be a power issue? Capacitors or something inside the system failing? Or simply just RF interference of some kind? I'm using a light sixer on a CRT through RF. I'll post a picture of one of the affected games and then a couple of pictures of regular games playing fine. thanks alot everyone.
  16. Hi. I recently bought an Atari Jaguar of eBay. It is PAL. It seems to power on and shows a green light. But when I hook it up to the TV, I see a distorted image (what you see when you don’t insert an Atari 2600 cartridge properly) I’ve been told by someone that the console is working as it should and the image I see is caused by the PAL system being used in an NTSC country. What do you think? By the way, I am using the AV signal. Is there something I need to buy to get it working? Thank you!
  17. Hi guys! I dug out my 800XL from my mom's house this past week and hooked it up to my Plasma TV using one of these Atari to Composite cables: https://www.8bitclassics.com/Atari-800-XL-XE-5-Pin-DIN-S-Video-Cable.html?search=AXL-SVIDEO However I cannot get it to work. The 800XL power light comes on but the TV just says no signal. I tried with both composite (Yellow, Red, White) and S-Video connections on the cables, and also tried composite on another LCDTV in the house. I also have two of the same cable converters linked above and both had same results. Same thing for all tests, "no signal" on TV. I am not sure what to do next. Is it likely that there is an issue with the monitor out on the 800XL? Or is it just that my TV's cannot recognize the signal? Maybe I need a different converter? What steps should I take next? I appreciate your help 8-biters! Gabriel
  18. Hey all, I recently purchased a Philips VG8020/00 MSX Home Computer. I'm having some trouble getting a decent video signal out of the thing. When I hook it up to my VCR/DVD Combo via the RF out and convert the signal into composite, I get a glitchy screen, jumping from left to right, going from color to black and white. However, the MSX boot up text is present, and when I press keys on the keyboard, they do get added to the screen. I used the automatic tuning options on my VCR/DVD combo, but it sadly does not improve the quality. I also tried connecting a Sega Mega Drive RGB connector to the Monitor out on the computer, but that didn't do anything apart from making some pop noises. I might have to get a different cable to test that out. I also know for sure that my set-up isn't the problem; I've connected other coaxial game-consoles the same way (Atari 2600, Videopac G7000) and they all work. The unit looks fine and all (no mayor external damage). What I did notice though, was some noises inside the machine when I held it sideways; there could be some dirt in there. Also, some buttons get stuck from time to time (especially the directional buttons). I'll open it up and give it a good clean one of these days. Has anyone here experienced similar problems and got them solved? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! I hope the damage (if it has any) is not to severe; would be awesome to get it up and running again! Thanks!
  19. I found my original 800xl from when I was a kid in the garage. Did not have a power supply so I picked up a 61982 off ebay. When I turn it on I see scrambled video and hear a buzz. This happens when I use the RF out and when using composite out via the monitor port. I recently had a similar issue with a 2600 and swapping out the TIA worked. Could this be as easy as replacing the GTIA or does the buzzing indicate another issue?
  20. Hi all, Quick question. Is it possible to determine if a STFM motherboard is PAL or NTSC just by looking at it? I have a STFM from a member here which did not have a power supply. Got one ordered, but I noticed the bottom of the STFM case is european. It's possible that the case may have been changed at some point, but before spending any more money and while I wait for the PSU to arrive, it'll be nice to know... the only info from the motherboard is that it's a C070789-00 rev.C... Thanks!
  21. Basically, 1 More Castle is a new features-based collaborative gaming website focused on retro gaming. Check it out at 1MoreCastle.com! To learn more about what we are all about, consider: Reading the 1 More Castle Manifesto, checking out the roster of weekly contributors, or just follow the Twitter account @1MoreCastle. This is something I am very excited about, and could say a lot more of, but I just wanted to let you know that we want to be your favorite retro gaming website -- and are serious about making that ambition a reality. Starting next week, our talented team will be providing exclusive, high-quality features to the tune of two updates every day, one in the morning and one in the evening. We would love to see you there. A note specifically for AtariAge regulars: I know that I am definitely not an active member of this community and more of a lurker, but I wanted to let you know that Atari systems are definitely within our coverage. One of our team members is actually going to be doing nothing but a weekly Atari 2600 review, and I am already trying to gather guest pieces related to other Atari consoles from knowledgeable retro gamers out there. We hope to be a website that caters to your tastes as well.
  22. Hello Atari owners and modders. I'm trying to add an audio / composite output on my "new" atari 2600 (NTSC 4 switch), but I can't obtain any image... The console worked yesterday with RF output, but with no sound and a really weird/dirty b&w image. That's why I decided to add an A/V mod to permanently solve the problem. I think I choose the cheaper solution: 2 resistances and 1 transistor, similar to the easier-7800-composite-video-mod My circuit is the same as the solution proposed by brighty83 for a PAL version here (down of the page):http://retro.mmgn.co...ari-2600-AV-Mod I found the same cicuit on ebay, sellers detail the process on their installation guides for NTSC versions: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FAtari-2600-7800-Composite-Video-Mod-Upgrade-Kit-DIY-%2F300592126324 (see Installation Guides for atari 2600 4 switch) or http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.fr%2FAtari-2600-A-V-Composite-Video-Mod-Kit-NTSC-PAL-DIY-%2F181042624250%3Fpt%3DLH_DefaultDomain_0%26hash%3Ditem2a26fb36fa installation guide: http://www.filedropp...stallationguide (page 10 for NTSC 4 switch) Here is the circuit (sorry for the poor image quality): Video out and GND ---> Video RCA Audio out and GND ---> Audio RCA As mentionned on guides for NTSC 4 switch, I removed the RF box, Q202 and R209: The sound works well, but no images, it's so sad... I don't know what to do, and I'm dying about playing with it, in good conditions I mean. Some of you tried this mod? any idea ? Fujisama
  23. I have an auction of 38 games on ebay right now. 3 of the games are Boxed. Check it out! Lots of Rare games! eBay Auction -- Item Number: 280836758600 If you have any questions or concerns please contact me through ebay. Tyvm. Whit.
  24. Here is a brief game play video I made of 3 of the games from Paddle Party: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LByTppo_E3s
×
×
  • Create New...