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Showing results for tags 'voltage regulator'.
Found 5 results
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I have a light sixer and it won't turn on. The voltage regulator got fried. I'm just curious how to fix this on the pcb. It got burnt after I used a crappy soldering iron trying to attach an led. Yes, if there is any way to remedy this let me know. The screen flashes as soon as I put power to the wall after that nothing. It's been a learning experience folks.
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Hey yo! So, I did a video mod. It worked well for a bit then all the colors went very dark. No adjustments would work. I was sent a replacement mod and a sixer refresh kit. I replaced the video mod possibly it was a bad pcb but no change. I then started to do the refresh. I replaced the 2200 uf capacitor and no change in color. I then replaced the chicklets, C103 and C104 and the voltage regulator, A101...... Now I get no video at all and the voltage regulator is burning hot! Also the original power supply started clicking but it stopped now. I think it was over heating as well...... any ideas my friends??? Im getting ready to give this thing up!
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OK. I have a 4 switch board, revision 12 with a standard AV mod. Everything was working fine, but the color wasn't great, so I decided to "refresh" the board. I got the complete 2600 kit from Console5.com and I have installed everything except the two polystyrene capacitors (for the audio) , but I ran into an issue when installing the zener diodes and their caps. Here's what Console5 said on their site- "Pre-Revision 14: A pair of zener diodes and capacitors used for static protection on the trigger lines (J202 & J203). Equivalent to service parts CA018263. Each small yellow .1uf cap is soldered across each zener diode. Each diode/cap combo is then soldered with the diode's stripe end connected to joystick port Pin 6 and the opposite side to the nearest ground plane." I wasn't 100% sure how to do what they were saying, since it seemed odd, considering how hard it is to get to pin 6 from the top of the board and they didn't mention if these went on the bottom of the board like the 820 ohm resistor for better colors.. I then referred to these instructions in the field service manual- "Install the static modification on all 2600 units. Install CR202 and CR203 ( that's what they call the zener/cap combo), by removing C236 and C237 and inserting the C236/CR202 and C237/CR203 assemblies in their place (See Figure 3-2). CAUTION: Observe the polarity on CR202 and CR203 (the dark band must be toward the J202/J203 connectors)." I did exactly that, but when I powered the system up, I didn't get a picture. When I checked the voltages on the regulator, it was EXTREMELY low only around 3 volts going in and only 1 volt coming out. I knew something was wrong, so I removed both of little zener-cap packs (whatever you want to call it) and powered it up again, everything checked out and picture was back. So, I tried to follow the trace from pin 6 and see which side needed the Black stripe of the zener on it. From what I could tell, it was right the first time, but I knew that didn't work, so I gambled, reversed it and tried again. The regulator is showing the correct voltages and the joysticks and fire buttons work, everything seems right, but those zeners are reversed from what both instructions say. I decided to search for a photo online showing how someone else soldered theirs in and I came up with nothing. So, I started wondering if only the 6 switchers needed this, since my 4 switch doesn't have a CD4050 IC (which the site suggested I order also, for 50 cents) and based on everything I've read, that's what the static effects. If that's the case, you would think they would have made it clear somewhere that all of this was only for 6 switchers. My question is this, should I remove the zener diode packs and replace them with the original components or leave them as is, even if they are installed reversed? Now, that was my BIG issue, so for some smaller issues. With the new parts, I now have much better color and picture quality , mostly. I'm testing on an HDTV, since it's all I have availible right this minute (I'll have access to my CRT later tonight) My issue is this, I now have a bright purple line that runs down the far left side of the screen and a dark green line that runs down the very far right hand side. On some games these are dotted lines others they are solid. The most annoying instance is on Asteroids. the top and bottom quarters of the screen are fine, but the center portion is shifted to the right making the purple line sit closer to the actual game play area. Now this may all be unimportant once I connect it to a CRT, since it won't be a widescreen format and will hopefully cut off these lines anyway. The main thing is though, they weren't there before I replaced the caps. At one point, I thought the 820 ohm resistor on the TIA between pin 6 and 9 might have something to do with it, so I removed the resistor. The lines were still there, so I reinstalled the resistor and put the shields back on the board. Maybe I'll have to live with the purple and green lines as long as I'm using an HDTV... I used the supplied tiny wires when I installed my AV mod and it's been working fine, until today. While I had everything apart I noticed that there was some type of interference in my video. The best way I can describe it is a wave of "tint" coming from the right side of the screen. I noticed it did this if I got the Joystick or even just my hand close to the board. and if you touch the positive video wire from the mod board to the video rca jack, you could make the wave "dance". My question is, should I replace that wire with something thicker, possibly shielded? It's not an issue when it's all closed up in the case, but if you shake it enough to jiggle that wire inside, it will do the wave thing. My last question (hopefully).. The two polystyrene capacitors (for the audio), I hadn't intended to replace them, but I want advice, just in case I should. The audio works on every game, but the volume varies wildly from game to game. Some games you barely hear, others you almost have to turn all the way down to keep from going deaf. Is this something that those caps can correct or is that just the nature of some games? I would post photos, but getting to my camera and then USING it is a lot of work, so I was hoping that someone here could maybe shed some light on this without needing photos. If it turns out the photos are going to help, me and possibly other people, then I'll bite the bullet and dig out my camera. I'm really tempted to buy another 2600 with a newer board and seeing if it works any better than this one, but I've already got the 7800, which seems to be working perfectly, so I'm not doing anything to it until something in it dies, forcing me to reopen and repair it. Sorry this post is so long, Thank You to anyone who reads it all the way through and can offer some advice.
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I'm continuing this from my latest blog post, Two Fries and a Hamburger, so that "All may benefit from discussion". After installing a composite mod on my Atari, the voltage regulator failed and took a couple of RIOTs with it. Another user suggested I just replace the VR, that it would work better because it's new. Is this a good idea? And do the new regulators fit the old cage heat sinks?
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Yesterday my heavy sixer stopped working. I opened it up, thinking it was a connection problem, but reconnecting the ribbon cable did nothing. I read in a forum post that voltage regulators, when they fail, tend to take a few ICs with them. I replaced the RIOT, and it worked for 30 seconds before dying again. So... Now I have 2 fried RIOT chips (pictured) and a failed voltage regulator. Apparently this is a common problem with the old steel-cage heat sinks, and makes sense because I recently composite-modded the console, putting stress on the VR. I wonder why the online instructions didn't recommend installing a more effective heat-sink? "We are not liable for any damage done to you or your Atari." Guess that's why. So if anyone has any suggestions on how to replace the voltage regulator in this particular case, let me know. I'm going back up north, so I won't be able to fix this problem until spring break. Time to focus on the NES I guess.
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